I've been having to work on much later (98-06) engines and needed a refresher on older ones. I'm now back to working on my 1971 360 ci engine and feel confident I can get that &@/! Distributor in correctly and get this engine running again! Thanks. BTW, I'm almost 70 and us old dogs can still re-learn old/new tricks!
You guys made hard work of an easy job. Firstly, to find TDC your way you need two guys because its damn hard to put your finger over No.1 plug hole AND turn the motor, especially if it's still in the chassis. Far easier to chew up a piece of paper until it's damp and push it into the spark plug hole. Then, when you start coming up on compression stroke, the paper will shoot off with a loud "pop." Then you wind the timing on until you're at 12° BTDC and put the distributor in there because you won't be far off optimum timing. 30°? ... WTF?? If the distributor wont mesh with the oil pump drive, you just drop in an oil pump priming tool and tweek it a tad, then try it again. It's also easier if you're on your own because trying to crank the motor AND jiggle the distributor home isnt really that easy. Also, with a SBF using the 351/H.O (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) firing order the plug leads on the cap look far nearer and easier to route with No.1 at 8 or 9 oclock as you look down on the top of the distributor cap. This way, you only have two leads crossing over on top of the cap ... No.2, which will be at about 5 o'clock and No.8, which will be at 10/11 o'clock and can fit across the cap between terminals and make everything look symmetrical. The rest of the plug leads 1-3-4 and 5-6-7 will exit the cap on their own respective sides of the motor. As long as theres fuel in the carb that motor will absolutely fire right up and be almost at it's optimum base timing and only need a tiny tweek of the distributor and the vacuum canister will have plenty of sweep fore and aft.
I won 50 bucks yesterday from my nephew because he bet me i couldn't get his new engine to fire on the first crank. I had a 10 oz ribeye, baked potato and a chef salad for lunch...and on top of that, the flat tappet cam didn't go flat during break in.
Video correct. One can put #1 on the cap anywhere he wants after finding TDC. You can do total timing like the vid or base. Then tune after breakin. 12 degrees usually good for most all combo`s to fire fast and not round off cams. No need for timing light at idle. Fire up and break in. Tune afterwards if needed.
If you set the timing marks, engine off, turn the key on and move distributor until the coil fires, you can tighten down the distributor. Ready to start up and timing is set before the engine starts.
Hi guys.i am 77 and old school and still like to do things myself.must say very good video.very well explained.got my Nissan hardbody going 100%.Thanks a stack. A video of the internal workings of an electrinic distributer would be welkom.
TH-cam university its a lot better than those old Sally Struthers correspondnce courses. Im doing my first engine swap, just bought my midlife crisis toy. 71 El Camino doing a engine swap to a 388.
Great video. Years ago I rebuilt an engine and it would fire but wouldn’t start. Distributor was 180 degrees out. Wish I had seen your video then. Would have saved several hours of frustration and a dead battery.
Two days ago on a 4.3l chevy, on startup it was 180 out...pop...backfired...on engines before this didn't really hurt anything but this time on this 4.3l chevy has a restrictor plate on the throttle plate.... backfire broke it off and destroyed my new engine. Thanks for the video I'll never set a distributor 180 out again...PS.. im a diy guy not a mechanic
As I remember early 260/289/302 engines had timing (15436378) and the 351's were (13725548). Late model engines all adopted the later firing order. I often wondered why that was. Also, wouldn't the camshafts from early 351's work in the early 289/302 engine with only changing the firing order to (13726548)?
Never really understood how it is so confusing. I can put them in and close to the timing I need without a problem. I havent got one 180 out since I was 16 years old and that was only once . It's really simple especially on a new motor you have just assembled
It all sounds good but I'm taking it as you can put the distributor in any way you want as long as the one is matching up with the mark on the distributor I kind of doesn't make no sense to me I'm going to have to look for a different video I guess I'm working on a 250 Chrysler Marine engine
Sure 30 or even 34 degree before TDC will start good but what there not telling is it will cause it to build more vacuum pressure and force oil between the gaskets and also cause the engine temp to rise faster..I set my sbc at 4 degrees before TDC starts without touching gas and bump key plus no longer had the oil and temp issue
I'm old school I just note where the position of the rotor pointing using clock position. Say 3 o'clock note position of vacuum advance. Now pull it and replace it exactly position you are done ✅
Couple of points: Some engines, AKA some V6's, fire with every other pair timed closer together, so it is imperative that you get no1 in the correct spot on the distributor, IE not "one hole" off. Also, I do NOT time by the rotor. Either look at the pickup (magnetic) or use a light/ meter on the points, or even BRIEFLY use a timing light "on the starter." Not sure you mentioned, if you have one/ both rocker covers off, you can eyeball the valves rather than "finger in the hole." And PLEASE, VERIFY the marks with a piston stop
I recently had poor directions adjusting preload for a roller 530 cam that resulted in bent valves shacking pistons. What is the best way to adjust preload? EOIC? Is there a possibility of pistons being reused when pistons hit valves?
What is the model of distributor you guys are using. I want to put a HEI in my 302 (1985 ford engine) just heard a lot of HEI aftermarket distributors are not to good.
I've got a 86 Ford truck EFI 302 and it's supposed to have the old firing order can I simply put a newer cam to change to newer firing order or am I going to have computer problems
So over the years, I've been putting top dead center at the corner, and then I will put my distributor in with the rotor button facing number one on distributor, and then I will crank the vehicle and set my timing to 14°. So this is incorrect?
You need to know how the cylinders are numbered. Ford and Chevy are different. Then you need to know the direction the distributor rotates. Then you need the firing order. If your firing order is 15426378 and distributor rotates counter clockwise, you hook up #1 cylinder to #1 on distributor. Going counterclockwise, the next nub goes to cylinder #5 then 4 then 2 until you work your way all the way around. If the last wire you hook up does not go to the last number in firing order, you got one wrong. Recheck
You seemed to have installed the wires to the spark plugs while talking to yourselves about what you were doing, and we were just wondering WTF was going on. That is why I don’t hit subscribe or bells, before I know if I really learned anything, you explained how to do this, not for a novice but for other mechanic, that would be my guess.
The position of your vacuum advance that shows them to be about two teeth off if you're going to show a video of how to do it correctly you should at least do it correctly
When using a digital ignition box or ECU that uses sensors to provide accurate data, the ignition timing can be precisely controlled. It's much better than the old crude method using counterweight, springs, and vacuum diaphragms.
I realize this video is for instructional purposes that being said why aren't you using a Ford distributor instead of that big ugly ass GM HEI number one if you're going to teach something teach it with the proper parts. Setting your advance at 5,000 RPMs is crazy your vacuum advances are going to be all in no later than 2500 There's no need to do that I've been doing this for 43 years and I've never seen that procedure done! Furthermore y'all better not try and do that with a newly built motor You may not make an out of the garage.
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
That's about the most straightforward "class" I have seen on distributors. Not too light, and not too heavy.
Good job gents!
I've been having to work on much later (98-06) engines and needed a refresher on older ones. I'm now back to working on my 1971 360 ci engine and feel confident I can get that &@/! Distributor in correctly and get this engine running again! Thanks.
BTW, I'm almost 70 and us old dogs can still re-learn old/new tricks!
Thanks guys for keeping the American spirit of hot rodding alive.
You guys made hard work of an easy job.
Firstly, to find TDC your way you need two guys because its damn hard to put your finger over No.1 plug hole AND turn the motor, especially if it's still in the chassis. Far easier to chew up a piece of paper until it's damp and push it into the spark plug hole. Then, when you start coming up on compression stroke, the paper will shoot off with a loud "pop."
Then you wind the timing on until you're at 12° BTDC and put the distributor in there because you won't be far off optimum timing. 30°? ... WTF??
If the distributor wont mesh with the oil pump drive, you just drop in an oil pump priming tool and tweek it a tad, then try it again. It's also easier if you're on your own because trying to crank the motor AND jiggle the distributor home isnt really that easy.
Also, with a SBF using the 351/H.O (1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8) firing order the plug leads on the cap look far nearer and easier to route with No.1 at 8 or 9 oclock as you look down on the top of the distributor cap. This way, you only have two leads crossing over on top of the cap ... No.2, which will be at about 5 o'clock and No.8, which will be at 10/11 o'clock and can fit across the cap between terminals and make everything look symmetrical. The rest of the plug leads 1-3-4 and 5-6-7 will exit the cap on their own respective sides of the motor.
As long as theres fuel in the carb that motor will absolutely fire right up and be almost at it's optimum base timing and only need a tiny tweek of the distributor and the vacuum canister will have plenty of sweep fore and aft.
I won 50 bucks yesterday from my nephew because he bet me i couldn't get his new engine to fire on the first crank. I had a 10 oz ribeye, baked potato and a chef salad for lunch...and on top of that, the flat tappet cam didn't go flat during break in.
Sounds like a heck of a good time! Both of you guys felt a win.
Nephew has to learn somehow....
Yeah right
I've done it over 1,000 times. Starts up on the first try every time.
Is there any chance your nephew needs to make another bet?
This sounds like one of Pat's lunches :)
Video correct. One can put #1 on the cap anywhere he wants after finding TDC. You can do total timing like the vid or base. Then tune after breakin. 12 degrees usually good for most all combo`s to fire fast and not round off cams. No need for timing light at idle. Fire up and break in. Tune afterwards if needed.
FINALLY a video even i can follow step by step!👏
I'm 35. My first car was a 1976 Ford Maverick but I could NEVER figure out distributors. Great video.
Advance or retard it by slightly rotating, also on carburetors you adjust jet screws, might consider having a vacuum gauge and timing light
Thanks for watching!
😂 ....and so you became a engineer
If you set the timing marks, engine off, turn the key on and move distributor until the coil fires, you can tighten down the distributor. Ready to start up and timing is set before the engine starts.
You ain't the boss. Stop . Don't tell me what to do or them. Stop
@@RyanBenbowyou stop
@@jacobwebb8818don't make me pull this car over kids! I will take off my belt lol
Hi guys.i am 77 and old school and still like to do things myself.must say very good video.very well explained.got my Nissan hardbody going 100%.Thanks a stack.
A video of the internal workings of an electrinic distributer would be welkom.
TH-cam university its a lot better than those old Sally Struthers correspondnce courses. Im doing my first engine swap, just bought my midlife crisis toy. 71 El Camino doing a engine swap to a 388.
Great video. Years ago I rebuilt an engine and it would fire but wouldn’t start. Distributor was 180 degrees out. Wish I had seen your video then. Would have saved several hours of frustration and a dead battery.
Thanks @craigwiest772, appreciate the comment!
Two days ago on a 4.3l chevy, on startup it was 180 out...pop...backfired...on engines before this didn't really hurt anything but this time on this 4.3l chevy has a restrictor plate on the throttle plate.... backfire broke it off and destroyed my new engine. Thanks for the video I'll never set a distributor 180 out again...PS.. im a diy guy not a mechanic
It sucked up debris you mean?
As I remember early 260/289/302 engines had timing (15436378) and the 351's were (13725548). Late model engines all adopted the later firing order. I often wondered why that was. Also, wouldn't the camshafts from early 351's work in the early 289/302 engine with only changing the firing order to (13726548)?
Never really understood how it is so confusing. I can put them in and close to the timing I need without a problem. I havent got one 180 out since I was 16 years old and that was only once . It's really simple especially on a new motor you have just assembled
How do you do it
Hey Guys! The S197 video was awesome! Would love to see more Mustang content and especially Coyote Swap stuff!
I freaking love these tech tip, how to videos !! Thanks!
More to come! Glad you are liking them. Thanks for watching.
Excenent video- thanks- my 1952 MGTD runs again!
Awesome video! Hopefully this is the start of a max effort 302 build like the Chevy 305 was! 🇺🇸💪🏼
It all sounds good but I'm taking it as you can put the distributor in any way you want as long as the one is matching up with the mark on the distributor I kind of doesn't make no sense to me I'm going to have to look for a different video I guess I'm working on a 250 Chrysler Marine engine
Sure 30 or even 34 degree before TDC will start good but what there not telling is it will cause it to build more vacuum pressure and force oil between the gaskets and also cause the engine temp to rise faster..I set my sbc at 4 degrees before TDC starts without touching gas and bump key plus no longer had the oil and temp issue
I'm old school I just note where the position of the rotor pointing using clock position. Say 3 o'clock note position of vacuum advance. Now pull it and replace it exactly position you are done ✅
I'd love to work in your shop, shout out from New Zealand 🔧💪👍
Couple of points: Some engines, AKA some V6's, fire with every other pair timed closer together, so it is imperative that you get no1 in the correct spot on the distributor, IE not "one hole" off. Also, I do NOT time by the rotor. Either look at the pickup (magnetic) or use a light/ meter on the points, or even BRIEFLY use a timing light "on the starter." Not sure you mentioned, if you have one/ both rocker covers off, you can eyeball the valves rather than "finger in the hole." And PLEASE, VERIFY the marks with a piston stop
Thank you very much for this information!
You know your pro when you use a speed brace
I learned this when i was 12 years old!
show how to use a timing light .. cheap and nice timing lights
Hi Cristi Jessy bless you from Canada 🎉 🎉❤I thankyou for your wisdom 🎉 🎉❤ 🎉 🎉❤ commentaires ❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
I recently had poor directions adjusting preload for a roller 530 cam that resulted in bent valves shacking pistons.
What is the best way to adjust preload? EOIC?
Is there a possibility of pistons being reused when pistons hit valves?
What is the model of distributor you guys are using. I want to put a HEI in my 302 (1985 ford engine) just heard a lot of HEI aftermarket distributors are not to good.
Are you saying that you determine where the number one spark plug is on the cap
When you understand a few simple things it’s easy.
I've got a 86 Ford truck EFI 302 and it's supposed to have the old firing order can I simply put a newer cam to change to newer firing order or am I going to have computer problems
302 is one firing order Windsor's another both cams will interchange with the exception of the firing order
How did yall know to put the 1 on the base in that spot?
I clearly don't have enough pocket pens...
So over the years, I've been putting top dead center at the corner, and then I will put my distributor in with the rotor button facing number one on distributor, and then I will crank the vehicle and set my timing to 14°. So this is incorrect?
😀 good job, good job! 😎🚘 😊..
Thanks! 😃
Why y'all didn't use a SDC engine? Cause the #1 is on the front driver side. How is that the #1 on the front passenger side? What block is that Ford?
My #1 is front passenger side and yes it’s a ford, idk about the other years but my 87 is like that
You identified the cylinders on the block & #1 spark plug wire on the distributor- HOW do you know which ones are numbers 2 - 8 on an 8 cylinder?
You need to know how the cylinders are numbered. Ford and Chevy are different. Then you need to know the direction the distributor rotates. Then you need the firing order. If your firing order is 15426378 and distributor rotates counter clockwise, you hook up #1 cylinder to #1 on distributor. Going counterclockwise, the next nub goes to cylinder #5 then 4 then 2 until you work your way all the way around. If the last wire you hook up does not go to the last number in firing order, you got one wrong. Recheck
Well done 👍
All trainees mechanics let's gather here❤ for more knowledge
❤
You seemed to have installed the wires to the spark plugs while talking to yourselves about what you were doing, and we were just wondering WTF was going on. That is why I don’t hit subscribe or bells, before I know if I really learned anything, you explained how to do this, not for a novice but for other mechanic, that would be my guess.
The position of your vacuum advance that shows them to be about two teeth off if you're going to show a video of how to do it correctly you should at least do it correctly
We called it dead timing
points
Aaay yo Frankeeee
Oh , its a ford. You probably should mention that.
I learned that when i was 12
I’m a lover not a fighter
Why do some ppl "lock out" the timing adv? Why does doing that give more performance?
When using a digital ignition box or ECU that uses sensors to provide accurate data, the ignition timing can be precisely controlled.
It's much better than the old crude method using counterweight, springs, and vacuum diaphragms.
@@cruisingthethaiway6881 ah ok I see thank you
🎉🎉🎉🎉
diccionary
theory
lausel
fund
I realize this video is for instructional purposes that being said why aren't you using a Ford distributor instead of that big ugly ass GM HEI number one if you're going to teach something teach it with the proper parts.
Setting your advance at 5,000 RPMs is crazy your vacuum advances are going to be all in no later than 2500 There's no need to do that I've been doing this for 43 years and I've never seen that procedure done!
Furthermore y'all better not try and do that with a newly built motor You may not make an out of the garage.
Good instructions thanks 🙏
god I hate distributors...
Give me solid state, programable multi coil ignition any day of the week.
Along with a plastic pos car. No thanks. That wouldn't be a Classic.
berlithz
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 TRUMP
A aftermarket? Does anyone speak English correctly anymore?
"FORD LINEAR CYLINDER NUMERATION"
"CHEVY CROSS CYLINDER NUMERATION"
🧠🎓🧰✅💯
points
Good instructions thanks 🙏