Instead of using the sparkplug for static timing which is good, my father taught me to use a light bulb like a turn signal bulb which has wires soldered to it with alligator clips, key on, engine set to required degree, turn distributor way before TDC , then turn the distributor slowly till the light just turns on then tighten the distributor nut and your done. Best static timing I know of.
That might not work with HEI ignition but definitely with points set-up. I use my 12 volt test light. Ground the alligator clip then attach the other end to the neg side of the coil. Thanks Sgt. Fowler for the tip and Thank You for your Service.
Back when I was in high school (and after) I was the go-to guy for firing up motors. whenever a buddy would finish a swap I would get a call. I would set up the distributor, run the plug wires, and tune the carb if needed. They would supply the beer!
High School shop class has saved me so much money over my lifetime (63 now) not having to pay mechanics to work on my old cars. Now I'm retired and that is what I do for fun, work on my old cars/ trucks/ jeeps/vws.
DAN you have the voice of a great teacher. You explain HOW, WHEN, WHERE, and WHY That MAKES A GREAT VIDEO BECAUSE YOU ARE JUST TALKING TO ME. Even though thousands are watching.
Distributor install tip, once you establish the interface between the cam gear and the distributor gear your timing is established. You can slowly rotate the engine without disturbing the timing until the distributor drops onto the oil pump shaft; It’s so simple but most people don’t realize it, good Video Dan! 😎
@@joepacheco4038 Nope 👎 Once the “drive Gear” on the camshaft meshes with the “driven Gear” on the distributor the timing has been established between the two. Turning the engine will not affect the timing, only rotating the distributor body will. Once you’ve established the timing interface then get the distributor to drop onto the oil pump shaft, then you can rotate the engine back to TDC or BDC and verify the install. This is exactly why I congratulated Dan for mentioning the procedure in this video!!! I struggled installing distributors for almost 10 years before I was enlightened to an easier way. JD
this is a good tutorial for people who want to know how to set up about any vehicles timing, that was some of the first things i learned about cars as a kid, my neighbor, he had me helping him in his shop tear down build engines, he would use a special tool for oil pumps, i didnt have much money so i tore apart a points distributor and ground down the teeth off the gear to prime oil pumps with my drill, i soon figured out it could be also be used as shaft slot locating tool for installing the distributors. its always nice to have guidance from people who can teach in a way that anyone could understand it.
Hey Dan, that's how I did it but, I always set the rotor pointing at the number 1 cyclinder and number 1on the cap. It's same, same but that's the way I did it. Can't wait till you take the first ride. Good job.
OMG thanks for your video, after fighting to get my timing right on my race car for a day. Came across your video and had the dang thing started in minutes. Thanks much.
Suck, squish, BANG, blow.... Timing IS everything, so true for life in general! This process Dan explains, works perfectly. I've been doing 1st starts like this for YEARS... Chevy, Dodge, Ford, anything. Its worked for me every time, without fuss.
Thanks Dan for the video. Although most of us learned timing a while ago, a lot of the younger crowd relies on how to videos for everything so someone has to make the simple but important videos.
Hi Dan! I remember my Dad timing the car very similar to how you did it. No piston stops, no ballons etc. I myself have used the finger over plug hole and a wad of paper that would blow out like a bullet. Good memories and good old school tech. Thanks for sharing.
@DD Speedshop...I always have clocked the HEI distributors so the square box terminal part is 90* from crank center...keeps wiring away from the back of the carb and vacumn lines accessible...your way of course will run fine...great channel Dan and Dani
I normally don't watch these as I learned all this 50 years ago, but,,,, something you did was a first, (that I've seen", since I was in school. That is showing the spark while rocking the cap back and forth.. I think that will be something that reminds people how to check for spark easily. Most who are really unsure of themselves are on the edge of freaking out trying to figure out why their motor isn't starting... Something I didn't hear was the explanation of 180* out and how easy it is to do that.. Good tooter.....
to check for spark i had my wife hold the plug wire while i crank it over and have her tell me if anything happens . it was on a lawn mower with the spark plug removed and it did have spark LOL .
Not dead wrong 100 spot on!! I’m usually in to big of a hurry and done it a million times. I’ve even been a complete hack and just moved the plug wires around one terminal. 😂🤘🏻
Cool man. Glad I found this. I bought a 72FJ40 . It’s running a 350 chev in it. Had good running gear . Boxed chassis and 2 link Nissan safari front diff and suspension. I’m a ford man so this scary 😅. It was dedicated to lpg so the insides are super clean and also the oil. The annoying thing is the ignorant chap undid all the gas lines and parked it so I need to change the cam to a petrol one then go play in the rocks
And don’t forget to take the wrench off the crank bolt when you’re using a remote starter. Easy to forget while you’re thinking about five different things at the same time lol.
Thank you very much Dan, I was always confused about how to mess with the timing. But you explained that very clearly and I appreciate that. I'm just getting into doing motor stuff myself on my own car and my mechanic never explained timing to me that easy , I guess he didn't want me doing it lol. Now thanks to you explaining it like that I know how to do it. Keep up the great work and God Bless you guys. 🔥💯💪🏼👍👍🙏🙏✌😊✌
Hi Dan. Great job with your project. One trick I learned as a GM mechanic is when the distributor fully drops in as you did on number eight cylinder you can just pick it up rotate the shaft 180 degrees reinsert it one tooth ahead the oil pump will follow and drop down. Pick it up and advance one tooth till it points to number one , oil pump shaft aligns distributor seats on intake. A few steps but I think it saves time . Good luck Mitch
Thank you for demonstrating the 8 degrees of initial timing, and then using the distributor for the rest of the timing, had it running on TDC But didn't sound to good!!! Thanks again
Good explanation for people that don’t know how to do this or never done it before a lot of people are so fuzzy on static engine timing and I think it’s a big scary monster well it’s very simple if he just have a simple instruction like you just gave that was a good job that’s exactly how I do it that’s exactly how it should be done textbook easy, I actually with Fords because I’m a Ford man I can get most cars now get the time and close I can have an idol I just move the distributor by hand and just by ear I can get the timing exactly right on pretty much every time just from hearing the engine and then if I want to shoot a timing light on it just in case I need to advance a little bit but with the newer computerized trucks and cars I built, the Computer does that anyway
I have a drag engine with a magneto and this is EXACTLY how I set the static timing on mine every time,just for the exception I have the cap off watching the moment the points break open as I am advancing the magneto ,but it is the very same idea.
Thanks for the lesson, didn't know that it could be done that way. When I was ordering parts from rock auto for my daily driver , I gave DD Speed Shop as where did I here of rock auto . Keep up the great videos.
Great video Dan. Thanks for sharing. Your definitely getting closer to it being road worthy do we all can pile in and go cruising 😂😂😂 be safe and see you on the next one. 👍😎✌️
How come none of the certified experts make videos? Is it because they're all too busy criticizing yours? Good job. She fired right up. You must've done something right. Lol!
I don't put #1 straight forward, but aimed at #1 cylinder. That gives you more turning radius of the distributer before the vacuum advance pot hits something, like the firewall!
yes,as do i...i just did freshly rebuilt vortec L31 heads(plus ls6 springs,new seals etc),gmpp cam,intake and thats exactly how i did it.fired up nice,broke in the cam and now i need some new tires
4 degrees in distributor is 8 on crank. If you carefully rotate distributor up the drive gear a tooth at a time backwards you can turn pump drive, it takes a minute or 2 but it does work. I line up every chev small block that way.
I think it should be at 8-14 degrees when it’s seated the initially. Once it’s rated the rotor on the distributor moves with the crankshaft so it no longer matters if you turn it counterclockwise or clockwise, it’s locked in and isn’t tuning anything.
If they can't get the timing set after all that, I feel like a cooking class or a sewing class might be better set for them. As you know, god made dirt and from that very same dirt was about the time I was born. Okay, I exaggerate a trifle but I know that the old "Y" block fords had the same location for the distributor and I did that with them always as they had a horrible distributor as it leaned over and was misérible to set the points. I yanked the distributor on them and got those points right on the money first and then set distributor back in and bingo, it would run fairly decent. I have a long body but sawed off legs and leaning over to get those points set was a real pain. Good job Dan
Seems to me it's just as easy to (1) confirm the power stroke (TDC) by watching the valves, (2) lining up the timing tab and balancer at TDC or zero degrees, (3) dropping the distributor in so the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor cap, and then (4) simply starting the engine and with the timing light move the distributor and lock it down at 10 or 12 degrees BTDC (or where desired) and re-connect the vacuum advance to observe total timing. A lot less complicated explanation if you ask me! Yours is a good workaround to not having a timing light if that's the objective.
I like to point the rotor at the driver side carburetor stud on the intake for #1 and then the electric connections part juts out away from the firewall... esp. since I think you moved the motor back... and maybe your #1 on the cap is off by one position from stock position - not that it actually matters, except for where your coil power connector will be.
Once it's all together, old school timing method.... floor the accelerator to launch the car, advance the timing until it starts pinging, then back off just enough to stop the pinging.
@Drunk patriot Nah. Too many variables. Engine age, cam wear, chain stretch timing advance curve etc etc etc. As much advance as you dial in without pinging. Foolproof. Simple.
Hey! So, I have a '74 K20. I got it running and driving, but it didn't have much power when I stepped on the gas. I thought I needed to adjust the timing and tweak the carburetor. I started with the HEI distributor, set it to top dead center, dropped the distributor in, and put the spark plug wires in the right order. But it's still not running right, even though I know there's spark and it's getting gas. It cranks but won't fire, and now the carb is spitting gas out the top.
You can rotate the oil pump with the distributor, you have to find where it drops in, then keep backing it up one tooth at a time till the rotor points where you want it to, it will not do this rotating it forwards, only backwards.
What’s the difference in performance by setting up a distributor with a baseline of 8 degrees before tdc as opposed to tdc? Just not clear why adjusting timing once installed doesnt do the same thing.
how did you bump it like that? sorry im new to all this and digging into my sbc can i bump it even if i have my dist and carb already off? thank you awesome video
Dan, ya need to get a job as a auto shop teacher. When I was in school I knew more about mechanicing than the teacher did.. I ended up teaching what he was clueless about.
I have a question. I put the number number 1 at toc. The rotor facing towards the number 1. When I put the timing light on 56 in order to see the line on the balancer. Do you know why? The car bogs under load,backfires, and pings.
does this method work with MSD boxes?? i turn my dizzy and get no spark.... i bridge the two wires from the MSD box that go to the dizzy and get spark.... i try to start it with starter and i get spark, but not when i manually turn the dizzy with ignition on....... wtf?
Good ol’ Chevys so easy to work on , so many interchangeable parts and much cheaper to buy . Long live the V8’s
That's how I've been timing my engines for decades. Fun to see you showing how it's done, teaching the novice builders out there. Nice job!
Instead of using the sparkplug for static timing which is good, my father taught me to use a light bulb like a turn signal bulb which has wires soldered to it with alligator clips, key on, engine set to required degree, turn distributor way before TDC , then turn the distributor slowly till the light just turns on then tighten the distributor nut and your done. Best static timing I know of.
same method is use to time my Harleys ! good info . carry on 🤠
I was taught that way also. Dan's way is also ok...
Do a video, I'd like to see this in real time? I've only known Dan's way all my life!
I would like to see that method also I only know the way that Dan did it
That might not work with HEI ignition but definitely with points set-up. I use my 12 volt test light. Ground the alligator clip then attach the other end to the neg side of the coil. Thanks Sgt. Fowler for the tip and Thank You for your Service.
Back when I was in high school (and after) I was the go-to guy for firing up motors. whenever a buddy would finish a swap I would get a call. I would set up the distributor, run the plug wires, and tune the carb if needed. They would supply the beer!
High School shop class has saved me so much money over my lifetime (63 now) not having to pay mechanics to work on my old cars. Now I'm retired and that is what I do for fun, work on my old cars/ trucks/ jeeps/vws.
where you located do you still help if supplied beer and cash if so I could use a hand😂
Pathethic
DAN you have the voice of a great teacher. You explain HOW, WHEN, WHERE, and WHY That MAKES A GREAT VIDEO BECAUSE YOU ARE JUST TALKING TO ME. Even though thousands are watching.
Distributor install tip, once you establish the interface between the cam gear and the distributor gear your timing is established. You can slowly rotate the engine without disturbing the timing until the distributor drops onto the oil pump shaft; It’s so simple but most people don’t realize it, good Video Dan! 😎
What?? Confused by what you said if you move eng, timing moves with it.
@@joepacheco4038 Nope 👎
Once the “drive Gear” on the camshaft meshes with the “driven Gear” on the distributor the timing has been established between the two. Turning the engine will not affect the timing, only rotating the distributor body will.
Once you’ve established the timing interface then get the distributor to drop onto the oil pump shaft, then you can rotate the engine back to TDC or BDC and verify the install.
This is exactly why I congratulated Dan for mentioning the procedure in this video!!! I struggled installing distributors for almost 10 years before I was enlightened to an easier way. JD
Dammit why do I always forget about this lol
@@HeadFlowInc you mean for 10 years you couldn't just stick your screwdriver and turn the oil pump shaft you line with the #1 piston? lmao wow
@@joepacheco4038 oil pump timing isn't a thing
this is a good tutorial for people who want to know how to set up about any vehicles timing, that was some of the first things i learned about cars as a kid, my neighbor, he had me helping him in his shop tear down build engines, he would use a special tool for oil pumps, i didnt have much money so i tore apart a points distributor and ground down the teeth off the gear to prime oil pumps with my drill, i soon figured out it could be also be used as shaft slot locating tool for installing the distributors. its always nice to have guidance from people who can teach in a way that anyone could understand it.
Hey Dan, that's how I did it but, I always set the rotor pointing at the number 1 cyclinder and number 1on the cap. It's same, same but that's the way I did it. Can't wait till you take the first ride. Good job.
Scott. I always do that too. It also puts your coil in a more eye pleasing position.
OMG thanks for your video, after fighting to get my timing right on my race car for a day. Came across your video and had the dang thing started in minutes. Thanks much.
Suck, squish, BANG, blow.... Timing IS everything, so true for life in general! This process Dan explains, works perfectly. I've been doing 1st starts like this for YEARS... Chevy, Dodge, Ford, anything. Its worked for me every time, without fuss.
Thanks Dan for going a little more in depth on these last few videos, I’m learning quite a bit from this.👍🏻
Thanks Dan for the video. Although most of us learned timing a while ago, a lot of the younger crowd relies on how to videos for everything so someone has to make the simple but important videos.
You are a hell of an instructor your one hell of an explained !! TEACHER I LOVE IT I LOVE IT!!!
My Dad taught me this but we hooked up the timing light to the #1 wire. When she blinked, lock her down. Miss my Dad.
Hi Dan! I remember my Dad timing the car very similar to how you did it. No piston stops, no ballons etc. I myself have used the finger over plug hole and a wad of paper that would blow out like a bullet. Good memories and good old school tech. Thanks for sharing.
@DD Speedshop...I always have clocked the HEI distributors so the square box terminal part is 90* from crank center...keeps wiring away from the back of the carb and vacumn lines accessible...your way of course will run fine...great channel Dan and Dani
Thanks Dan, Another great video. We need all the young car guys to understand what’s going on here.
your explanation and setup of timing is by far the best i've seen and i will be using your method to try and get my sbc firing. thanks
I normally don't watch these as I learned all this 50 years ago, but,,,, something you did was a first, (that I've seen", since I was in school. That is showing the spark while rocking the cap back and forth.. I think that will be something that reminds people how to check for spark easily. Most who are really unsure of themselves are on the edge of freaking out trying to figure out why their motor isn't starting... Something I didn't hear was the explanation of 180* out and how easy it is to do that.. Good tooter.....
to check for spark i had my wife hold the plug wire while i crank it over and have her tell me if anything happens .
it was on a lawn mower with the spark plug removed and it did have spark LOL .
@@60chevyjim Hahahahahahahahahahaaa.... And then you gave your wife a MAN CARD!!! Lol...
Not dead wrong 100 spot on!! I’m usually in to big of a hurry and done it a million times. I’ve even been a complete hack and just moved the plug wires around one terminal. 😂🤘🏻
Man I haven't done this in many yrs, deal with LS engines these days. Thanks for the refresher!
Cool man. Glad I found this. I bought a 72FJ40 . It’s running a 350 chev in it. Had good running gear . Boxed chassis and 2 link Nissan safari front diff and suspension. I’m a ford man so this scary 😅. It was dedicated to lpg so the insides are super clean and also the oil. The annoying thing is the ignorant chap undid all the gas lines and parked it so I need to change the cam to a petrol one then go play in the rocks
And don’t forget to take the wrench off the crank bolt when you’re using a remote starter. Easy to forget while you’re thinking about five different things at the same time lol.
Got that hat lol
I’ve done that. I was amazed at how far it threw it!😂
Use a ratchet, odds are 50/50 it will be set on tighten and just fall off.
@@franksgarage8551 I call odds 50/50/90 cause if it's a 50/50 for me 90 percent of the time it screws me lol
Thank you very much Dan, I was always confused about how to mess with the timing. But you explained that very clearly and I appreciate that. I'm just getting into doing motor stuff myself on my own car and my mechanic never explained timing to me that easy , I guess he didn't want me doing it lol. Now thanks to you explaining it like that I know how to do it. Keep up the great work and God Bless you guys. 🔥💯💪🏼👍👍🙏🙏✌😊✌
Hi Dan.
Great job with your project. One trick I learned as a GM mechanic is when the distributor fully drops in as you did on number eight cylinder you can just pick it up rotate the shaft 180 degrees reinsert it one tooth ahead the oil pump will follow and drop down. Pick it up and advance one tooth till it points to number one , oil pump shaft aligns distributor seats on intake. A few steps but I think it saves time .
Good luck
Mitch
Can over advanced timing cause a rich condition and make smoke out the pipe?
@@tedtalour6414 over advancing causes detonation/pinging not smoke. Other factors may cause your condition .
Thank you for demonstrating the 8 degrees of initial timing, and then using the distributor for the rest of the timing, had it running on TDC But didn't sound to good!!! Thanks again
I'm still trying to understand why 8 degrees before. I'm using 0 & my car runs shakey & rough with a high idle.
Great way of explaining so the common person can understand
People get spoiled with those coil packs and all that other new fangled stuff... Great lesson Dan!!
Good tutorial. You would be a good auto shop teacher.
Good explanation for people that don’t know how to do this or never done it before a lot of people are so fuzzy on static engine timing and I think it’s a big scary monster well it’s very simple if he just have a simple instruction like you just gave that was a good job that’s exactly how I do it that’s exactly how it should be done textbook easy, I actually with Fords because I’m a Ford man I can get most cars now get the time and close I can have an idol I just move the distributor by hand and just by ear I can get the timing exactly right on pretty much every time just from hearing the engine and then if I want to shoot a timing light on it just in case I need to advance a little bit but with the newer computerized trucks and cars I built, the Computer does that anyway
I have a drag engine with a magneto and this is EXACTLY how I set the static timing on mine every time,just for the exception I have the cap off watching the moment the points break open as I am advancing the magneto ,but it is the very same idea.
Best lesson on timing I've seen Dan..Thanks..
Thanks for the lesson, didn't know that it could be done that way. When I was ordering parts from rock auto for my daily driver , I gave DD Speed Shop as where did I here of rock auto . Keep up the great videos.
good informative video on this subject. done it that way for decades and you hit every point right to the t.
This video dropped on my lunch time. Good timing!
Great video Dan. Thanks for sharing. Your definitely getting closer to it being road worthy do we all can pile in and go cruising 😂😂😂 be safe and see you on the next one. 👍😎✌️
That's a pretty darn good tutorial.
I use the harmonic balancer bolt to rotate the engine to drop in the distributor......
Well done Dan and Dani.
Nice one Dan ,yep I believe she ready to run, keep it going
How come none of the certified experts make videos? Is it because they're all too busy criticizing yours? Good job. She fired right up. You must've done something right. Lol!
I think my first words as a child was the firing order of a Chevy....lol
I think it's great that you took the time to teach people how to do this.
The only v8 domestic motors that don't use the same firing order is Ford meaning Mopar is the same as Chevy etc
Best video on this I’ve seen
Thank you for explaining this in your own words.
Well done Dan.
I don't put #1 straight forward, but aimed at #1 cylinder. That gives you more turning radius of the distributer before the vacuum advance pot hits something, like the firewall!
yes,as do i...i just did freshly rebuilt vortec L31 heads(plus ls6 springs,new seals etc),gmpp cam,intake and thats exactly how i did it.fired up nice,broke in the cam and now i need some new tires
Hi dan..here watching your newest update..thank you
Great video and excellent explanation.
Thanks!
Good basic info, Dan.
Great video Dan
Nothing's more enjoyable than working on a car before warning labels, check engine lights, and rubber bumpers !
4 degrees in distributor is 8 on crank. If you carefully rotate distributor up the drive gear a tooth at a time backwards you can turn pump drive, it takes a minute or 2 but it does work. I line up every chev small block that way.
I think it should be at 8-14 degrees when it’s seated the initially. Once it’s rated the rotor on the distributor moves with the crankshaft so it no longer matters if you turn it counterclockwise or clockwise, it’s locked in and isn’t tuning anything.
Excellent video!! Explained very clearly. Cheers!! 🤓
Great video. I understand a whole lot better now.
Mur should be proud of you. I wish you were my shop teacher back in the day, I had a b*ll buster
Good job explaining timing sequencing. Thanks for sharing. 👍😃👉🇺🇸🇨🇦👈
If they can't get the timing set after all that, I feel like a cooking class or a sewing class might be better set for them. As you know, god made dirt and from that very same dirt was about the time I was born. Okay, I exaggerate a trifle but I know that the old "Y" block fords had the same location for the distributor and I did that with them always as they had a horrible distributor as it leaned over and was misérible to set the points. I yanked the distributor on them and got those points right on the money first and then set distributor back in and bingo, it would run fairly decent. I have a long body but sawed off legs and leaning over to get those points set was a real pain. Good job Dan
Love this build and channel
Seems to me it's just as easy to (1) confirm the power stroke (TDC) by watching the valves, (2) lining up the timing tab and balancer at TDC or zero degrees, (3) dropping the distributor in so the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor cap, and then (4) simply starting the engine and with the timing light move the distributor and lock it down at 10 or 12 degrees BTDC (or where desired) and re-connect the vacuum advance to observe total timing. A lot less complicated explanation if you ask me! Yours is a good workaround to not having a timing light if that's the objective.
Good tech session, well presented
I like to point the rotor at the driver side carburetor stud on the intake for #1 and then the electric connections part juts out away from the firewall... esp. since I think you moved the motor back... and maybe your #1 on the cap is off by one position from stock position - not that it actually matters, except for where your coil power connector will be.
Coll tutorial Dan, explained it perfectly
We used to power time , in drive and bumper against concrete wall and my buddy would turn the distributor until the tires would spin
That work to get timing set, you can also get close by feel of the magnetic pull of the pick up.
Calico ignition wires, matches the car!!
Great advice Dan. Too cool 👍
Once it's all together, old school timing method....
floor the accelerator to launch the car, advance the timing until it starts pinging, then back off just enough to stop the pinging.
@Drunk patriot
Nah. Too many variables.
Engine age, cam wear, chain stretch timing advance curve etc etc etc.
As much advance as you dial in without pinging.
Foolproof. Simple.
good info for beginers....very good....its all exhausting....
Better to blow your finger "off" at TDC than with an M80! Thanks Mr. Chebbie!
Great job on the video
Nice Dan you know your old Chevy motors.
Actually turning the base advances the pole piece or pick-up coil, which is what changes the timing, also that is how the vaccum advance works.
Good info. Just a slight PITA to install the plugs.
Cool rainbow spark plug wires .
Thumbs up for this video buddy.
great tutorial, thank you!
Never seen the rotor point at carb it normally faces towards number 1 cyclender
Can point rotor any place you want as long as its pointing to a distributor contact. Of course you have to start wiring for #1 at that terminal.
Hey Dan forgot to tell them about flames shooting out of carb on initial fire up . Murphy's Law 180 out. Lol
Class is in session love it 👍
Hey! So, I have a '74 K20. I got it running and driving, but it didn't have much power when I stepped on the gas. I thought I needed to adjust the timing and tweak the carburetor. I started with the HEI distributor, set it to top dead center, dropped the distributor in, and put the spark plug wires in the right order. But it's still not running right, even though I know there's spark and it's getting gas. It cranks but won't fire, and now the carb is spitting gas out the top.
The floats on the carb are stuck if u didn’t fix it
You can rotate the oil pump with the distributor, you have to find where it drops in, then keep backing it up one tooth at a time till the rotor points where you want it to, it will not do this rotating it forwards, only backwards.
What’s the difference in performance by setting up a distributor with a baseline of 8 degrees before tdc as opposed to tdc? Just not clear why adjusting timing once installed doesnt do the same thing.
I personally have a piece of dowel I stick down in the sparkplug hole that has a mark where the top of the stroke is
Excellent work
how did you bump it like that? sorry im new to all this and digging into my sbc can i bump it even if i have my dist and carb already off? thank you awesome video
Dan, ya need to get a job as a auto shop teacher. When I was in school I knew more about mechanicing than the teacher did.. I ended up teaching what he was clueless about.
If I unhooked cylinders 2-4-6-8 ignition wires, started the motor - running on only 4 cylinders, will that disrupt the timing?
Wen u say you want spark to fire wen piston at top is that after the exhaus valve close right before the intake starts to open?
Good Vid as usual!!🖒🖒
Way to go hoser !
Looking good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a question. I put the number number 1 at toc. The rotor facing towards the number 1. When I put the timing light on 56 in order to see the line on the balancer. Do you know why? The car bogs under load,backfires, and pings.
Thanks for sharing!
keep the great work man
How do you change sthe spark on 6? Any special tool. Dont want to take of the header. Too tight...
100% Dan, that's how I do it.
WOW!! so thats how its done!! thanks Goldie locks! I think I'll go rip all the plug wires off all my engines and try this!!!
Watching this episode at 35000 feet !
does this method work with MSD boxes?? i turn my dizzy and get no spark.... i bridge the two wires from the MSD box that go to the dizzy and get spark.... i try to start it with starter and i get spark, but not when i manually turn the dizzy with ignition on....... wtf?