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What are you setting the multimeter at to get those calculations
I had the same issue, i replaced my original from amazon and it was accelerated for about 2500rpm. I also replace the tps sensor and had a terrible time finding the issue. I removed the cap to adjust the screw and big big mistake to mess with that. I did brought the acceleration down but not the right way. Cold starts was weak and wanting to stall so i would adjust the screw again and will not get it right. To my surprise, the idle control valve was the PROBLEM since was new i never thought it would be defective. I took it to the shop and explained them what I did and they laughed when i told them i adjusted the screw for the throttle body. They told me it was sealed for a reason and it should not be altered. So they charged me 60 dollars to hook it up to a scanner and it indicated that my problem was the NEW idle control valve. I told them its new and i just replaced it. He said it was bad, so i purchased another one and a used throttle body from ebay and i rebuilded it with new gaskets and cleaned really good. I also installed the injector spacer to raise the injectors to add more air in. Installed the new idle control valve and wow was running like it should. Like a new truck. I had a very long weekend figuring this out and finally I could have a beer relaxing and admiring my work😅
This could have been phenomenal.......if you had shown us what you did to hook up the meter......and what settings you used...........dammit man
The coil has tach on it. Power and tach harness
Where do you plug the meter for rpms
yeah wth lol
Where do you connect the multimeter to get that reading
This is the most helpful video I have ever seen . I have 88 c1500 with the same motor. And I have replaced fuel pump , filter and all and could not for the life of me figur out my high idle. Thank you so much
did you vehicle rise and lower , the revs
hate to break the news but what u replaced
have ZER0 to do with
high idle. fuel pump
replacement is tough.
Sorry Russel -Replaced the IAC on my 1992-K1500. The manual says : after installing the AIC and connecting the plug- in . #1- turn on key to On (do not start ) for 10 seconds. #2 turn key Off for 10 seconds #3 Start motor ,let idle for 5 minutes. #4 Turn motor Off for 30 seconds. #5 Restart motor and observe idle operation (rpm ) .I did this and now it,s idling at app. 600 rpm ( on dash tach. ) Couldn,t get passed 115kph ( app. 70 mph ) before ,without surging and power loss. Now i,m easily getting there and more , plus much stronger pulling .I,m anticipating better fuel economy as well. Oh yes, I did change the MAP sensor as well ,since everything is over 30 yrs. old. This time I trusted the manual and it worked. I,m happy. We both love this truck
@@cecilsabourin9462that didn’t do shiiiii😂
If all else fails and you still have high idle. You will need 2 IAC valves.
step 1. remove the IAC valve, next adjust the pintle either CW or CCW and reinstall back (DO NOT connect connector to IAC) start engine and check RPM, you have to keep removing and adjusting until you get the RPM you want example 700rpm. (DO NOT reconnect connector).
step 2. Once you got the proper RPM, get a spare IAC and connect the connector to it (make sure and remove the pintle on it otherwise it will fall off when activated) and next tie the IAC valve down somewhere so it doesn't go anywhere. The reason you need this second IAC valve is so you won't get a check engine light.
This will fix the high idle (mine was over 1500 rpm and I got it down to 700rpm). The only downside is when you start the engine you need to give it gas so it doesnt die out, but as soon it runs a few seconds you can drive without the engine dying out. After fixing the high idle I actually was getting somewhat better mileage, from 12 mpg to 14 mpg.
You didn’t mention if the AB jumper wire was hooked up before you started your procedure. That info would be useful. Thanks
Where was the meter hooked up to? Also, what did you do with the torque screw?
That’s what I’m saying 😩😩
right smh
Thank you sir, it is videos like this that help me keep my 1995 2 door tahoe on the road with 299,000 miles
I read that after unplugging the IAC, you're supposed to remove the paper clip from the ALDL prior to starting the engine and adjusting the screw.
When do u connect the iac
When you start the vehicle after removing the electrical plug on the IAC do you leave the jumper on the AB port or remove it to set the idle before restarting the engine? Thanks
Right i tried to start mine with the jumper out and it just died on me
Turbo Broccoli Injector
😂😂😂
@@tjtj3027 😮0
Yes
Thank you! No more high idle problem on my 1989 Chevrolet Suburban!
I want to get a little more detailed with my comment below. My idle was well over 2000rpm on my 87 C20 when I bought it from the prior owner. He replaced all the sensors including the IAC. I tried the reset with the paper- clip described in the video and this worked well for about 2 minutes. I then checked for a vacuum leak for several hours and found nothing. With the engine off I rotated the ICA plug-in 1/4 turn to see what would happen. The idle dropped by about 1/2 (still high but better). I rotated it back, the idle was way high again. I then decided to rotate it 1/2 turn, this fixed the problem the idle has been perfect for 3 days and about 100 miles. Hopefully, this is a long-term fix and not a fluke. I could not find anything that says the IAC valve plug adjusts the idle but it worked for me. so before you start spraying carb cleaner all over your top end and sticking paper clips in your computer try rotating the IAC plug. every 1/4 turn changed the idle.
Ok what did you hook that meter up to so you can get them readings
TBI is from 1987 to 1995. TBI means Throttle BODY Injection, not Throttle BORE Injection. Thanks for the video.
not splitting hairs, but throttle BODY injection. =) thanks for posting.
I have an idea now on how to adjust the idling on my truck. It was actually not wanting to Idle so I will try this. I just replaced the Idler Control. Thank you, I will let you know how it turns out!
Sorry sir but seems like you left some info out. When you set the idle with the screw was the IAC hooked up or not? You said in passing about unhooking your battery,why? Is it necessary? Where do you hook the multimeter?
OP please answer
when did you take the clip out and when did you replug the iac
My 90 model K1500 doesn't have a tach and I don't know what you are measuring, so I just faked it.
I followed instructions, removed the plug to the torx adjustment and turned it CCW about 1/8 turn.
Disconnect Battery for 5 minutes then reconnected everything and started it back up.
Sounds and works a lot better. Still don't know my idle RPM but it's not too high. And it used to be.
Where did you hook the probes from the meter to
1995 was the last year for TBI on the 5.7L. I'm not sure about the other engines GM used. The Vortec engines were MPI.
262, 454, 305 of this era used tbi. Early Vortec 4300, 5000, 5700, 7400 used cpfi with a spider valve, mpfi came later on the 4300, 4800, 5000, 5300 5700, 7400, 8100.
@@shadowopsairman1583 The 5.7 didn't get rid of TBI, at least on trucks, until 1996; with the introduction of the Vortec engines.
The 5.7/350 used TBI until the introduction of the Vortec. I know because my brother had a 1994 1/2 ton Chevy Suburban with a 5.7 and it was TBI.
I have been driving a 1995 K1500 GMC w/ 5.7L since 1998 and it's TBI as well.
I rotated the plug that goes into the ACI 1/4 turn idle dropped slightly. Rotated it again and it sounds perfect.
what plug are u speaking of ? do u mean the pintle shaft coming out of the IAC/
@@randy1ization the 4 prong plug that goes into the IAC is the same plug the guy disconnects in the video. rotate the plug and see what happens.
@@yourmortgageguyneilrobinso9166 NO, NADA, NICT, NINE, !!!!! there is no adjustment by turning the Iac Valve in and out, IT SEALS BY TIGHTENING THE IAC AGAINST THE TBI WITH A GASKET... and your not supposed to dick with the factory preset idle screw.. AT ALL FOR ANY REASON...EVER !!!!!!!!!!!!! the truck is not right, his idle was hunting from 600 to 1000 rpms.,., at warm engine it should stabilize.. The computer controls the idle thru the Iac, throttle position sensor and coolant temp sensor as well as the 02 sensor... he probably has a vacuum leak at the TBI base gasket, or the IAC is so tweaked it cannot retract properly anymore, you cannot clean them with solvent, you can only lightly clean the pintle with a soft brass wire brush..either that or the TPS is not installed correctly, or its bad. LOTS of chinese junk parts out there...
if theres carbon in the tbi where the pintle is supposed to seat and too much air leaks past, it will raise the idle.. these TBIs run kind of dirty. you have to take them off, clean and re gasket them abt every 5 years. not hard at all if u pay attention... there were 2 slightly different styles made, and they use a different gasket, so u must use the right gasket for the tbi u have or u will have problems... also on the TBI is the fuel pressure regulator.. the diaphram can tear or the spring can rust, weaken and or break and cause problems.. Dont do what this guy is doing.,. he will have it so out of whack he may never get it right. His Idle is hunting because the components are not in agreement.. the computer is trying to get everything in sync, but once he dicked with the idle screw, it cannot do it.. he needs to try and put the idle screw back to its factory position, and then figure out what the real problem is.. I would pull the TBI and rebuild it, and install a new OEM iac VALVE and see how it does.. he could also have a vacuum line unplugged from the map sensor, or elsewhere.
By rotating the plug do you mean unplugging it and rotating it 1/4 at at time? Or actually turning the whole plug while still plugged in to the assembly 1/4 at a time?
Could you please indicate where you are taking your voltage readings from ? Thank you
I believe it’s the rpm rating from the iac, i’m not too sure but i believe that’s what he did
Thanks man , I had no idea , I was looking for vac leaks
TBI Throttle BODY Injection.
The only way to keep it running is to keep your foot on the throttle so it wont die. It does better after it has warmed up a bit
O
an alright video so many steps left out to really make a true repair without more knowledge before hand.
I could be wrong but I don't see it in the video, I think its necessary worm the engine up to operating temperature before you start this.
Sounds like the idle is the least of the problems for that engine
why?
Did you pull out the paper clip before you started it? And did you leave the IAC unplugged when and you adjusted the idle (torcks) ? And did you adjust it also while running?
I installed a new IAC. It says needs calibration I didn't do any calibration. Just installed it. Should I use this method to calibrate the new one.y idle is too high. I was having problems with stalling and erratic idle and stalling. Now it just idles too high. If really appreciate any help you can give me
I have a 1988 k1500 with a 305 in it. I did this and my truck is still surging. I rebuilt the throttle body and changed the injectors. All new gaskets in the throttle body. It idles where it should just surges like it’s trying to die then jumps back up to 730-750 then back down to 400-450 in park. After it warms up a bit idles is about 900 then when I go into gear it surges again.
What setting on multimeter and what wires do you connect your leads to so you can test them ?
That was a mystery to me too
Wondering the same
Same here, I’m thinking since he’s not answering one goes to battery and the other to wire to cylinder 1
@@gregcardenas9132 that would make the most sense
That meter he has ,has a clamp that indicates direction towards sparkplug and simply connects to meter . But I do believe you turn key off after unplugging iac then remove obd1 jumper wire to A&B ,start and make adjustments. Turn off engine, disconnect battery negative 5 min, start vehicle 5 seconds, turn off then restart.
I’m experiencing the opposite. Terrible hum when going down freeway. Thanks.
Thanks. I was going to adjust mine unlike an old carburetor. Good info
Thank you! I've been needing that info. For a long time now.
Very good informative video. I need to do this to mine. Thanks!!!!
I think the tbi housing wears where the pintle shaft seats is why the IAC cant bring the idle down far enough on its own anymore.
Your comment is a year old but is relevant. I replace my IAC about a year ago. My intern has had some carbon buildup and during some cleaning of the throttle body I remove the IAC and noticed it was worn on one side pentil tip. Who is shiney metal, but only on one-quarter to one-third of the tip.
where was the multi meter connected? what was the selector set on? ( mA, or ohm or...). please reply 🙏🙏
Great video. Do you start the vehicle with the old ports still jumped when making the adjustment or do you remove it?
That’s a good question that should be answered. I would think not but that is my opinion. The poster needs to address this question.
When did you take the paperclip jumper out of the data port? Is it still there?? I can understand the obvious answer, but it may make a difference if someone is unfamiliar with how and why you jump it to start with.
“ the last thing you want to do is adjust the screw.. I adjusted the screw.” Ok so which on is it? Lol
so what if the screw is covered with a metal seamless cap appearing as sealed into the carb base and the screw is protruding on the throttle side just can't adjust since the head of screw is untouchable?
Wheredo you pin the volt meter to get that reading
Thanks for your video. I heave the same problem with my 91 Chevy Caprice, 305 cui 👍
Thanks for the video. Just got a 97 c50 1500 Silverado and love this truck.
Yeah because it's either avortec 4300, L31 vortec 5700 or 5000 without tbi but cpfi.
Nice bro i just got an 80 el camino, i love this truck myself 😅
T.B.I throttle body injection
Puente en AB llave en contacto ,espere 60 segundos desconecte la valvula IAC encienda el motor y ajuste las RPM segun modelo del motor , apague el motor, vuelva a conectar la IAC desconecte el puente de las terminales AB encienda el motor, dejelo 10 minutos funcionando...apague el motor y desconecte el neg. -- de la bateria 5 min. Encienda de nuevo el motor y maneje por 10 minutos.....y liiiiiiistooooo. Jejeje saludos a todos.
Eres mecanico
No, pero tengo un CANCER IGUAL AL DEL VIDEO
Jejeje
What is the meter hooked to ?
So, could you just disconnect the plug after jumping the test port under the dash? Seems you waited for a step down, but then went ahead and disconnected the plug on TBI. What was the purpose of disconnecting the battery, it too seemed to be an afterthought in your commentary. Please clarify. Thanks
So, the "proper way" to adjust the idle is...
Reset the IAC valve, then adjust the screw that you should not adjust to get the rpm at preferred rpm range . Got it
Where do you hook the VOM to? Did you remove the Jumper when you checked the Idle Speed with the IAC Valve unplugged?
Was the multimeter hooked to the IAC or o2 sensor to read voltage?
So you leave the AIC valve disconnected while adjusting the idle screw????
I'd replace the map if not done already along with the tps, iacv. AC DELCO/DELPHI/STANDARD
Do you know what the brake light blinking is? Ever had that issue? Thanks!
That turned out to be the ABS wanting a reset. I unplugged the ABS module and then plugged it back in a fixed it.
where did you hook up the multi meter too
I have the 5.7 350 in my 98 Chevy Express G15 and it idles way too low... This is very helpful in understanding where everything is to adjust it. The only issue I have now is "Can I fit my giant mitts in the engine bay to adjust this?" 🤣
at what point do you reconnect the airflow sensor.
Did this changed the throttle body to a new one with new fuel injectors new iac new tps new fuel pump new fuel filter also battery. I tried to bring it down to number 7 on the tachometer and if I go that low the truck stalls out
Did you try this remedy first? To set the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC) turn the ignition “ON”, don’t start the engine, wait 10 seconds then turn the key to “OFF”. The ECM then resets the pintle to the correct position. Proper idle regulation should result. Hope folks try this first before monkeying around with the TBI.
where do you connect your meter to get your numbers?
Hooked to the tachometer outlet on the distributor cap
again number one plug wire at engine no more than 4 inch from spark plug.
Where did you connect the meter to show the rpm’s?
Can I use the basics for a 91 s10 2.2, 220 model tbi.?
Some TBI set ups the TPS is non adjustable and the 'Min idle is set at the factory by hidden screw.
That's a lie
@@wildestcowboy2668 Incorrect not on the early 90 - mid 90s TBI 454 engines.
Thanks so much I needed this video
It's "Throttle BODY Injection"
The reset worked great for about 2 minutes then idle climbed back up. whats next?
that nice but the multimeter is connected ware?
I was wondering how much you turned that screw? I'm guessing less than 1/8 of a turn?
...counterclockwise?
I'm also curious how the throttle position sensor reacts to something like this if you know.
I appreciate the video.
My 1992 GMC Sierra with 5.7 350 TBI idles with IAC disconnected and once I connect it, it stalls. Tried resetting and I guess it’s not budging.
Worked great. Thanks brotha.
Does anyone know where he connects everything?
Good question. Would like to know where that multimeter was connected and what settings it was on.
@@AlanKerenaButler into the tach wire that is located in the bundle that goes to your ignition coil there should be one single wire left out if you don't have a tach
can this problem can be related to loose of power 5-8 sec after acelerartion on the reoad when chek engine is light no problem , and wen chek engine light off run fine , the motor is hi on rpm on idle
Excellent help thanks
I have a 2000 Chevrolet pickup, it idling slow, sometimes it cuts off, are loops when stopping at a traffic light.
Where are you plugging meter in?
Wat are u hooking ur meter to ,to get ur reading?
Great video Russel. Question, The location of the torx screw has a metal plug, How do you remove it?
Same
@@markstewart8171 take a tiny drill bit and punch a small hole in its center. Then take a short metal screw and screw it into the small hole. Grab some players and just pull it out. That exposes the adjustment screw. 😁👍
@@Slushers1 ended up being a riser block under the tbi that was allowing extra airflow in the tbi, I took it off and it ran at 600rpm. Glad the adjustment screw was blocked off. Or I would have screwed it up.
@@markstewart8171 so you had a vacuum leak that was causing the high idle. Glad you got it fixed😁👍
@@Slushers1 yep
Is this the same procedure for the v6 also
That adjustment cap is hard to get off of mine
My 91 dies when you you barely give it gas and it's impossible to drive in town with all the start and stops, runs like a champ out on road with no stopping just in town what's wrong
Where did you hook the ohmmeter up at?
into the tach wire at the ignition coil wires, there should be one wire not used out of the few wires that go to your ignition coil
Would this also apply to a 454?
Excellent video, mine idles at 12,000. Can you do this without a meter?
Great video. Very informative. I was wondering if you may any insight to a slightly different idle issue. After driving awhile with the AC on my idle gets so low the truck is on the verge of shutting off. Thinking maybe a vacuum line or something but I haven’t found it yet.
EGR valve?.... Easy replacement.
is same for BBC 454 engie.
???
Should be
If you adjust your idol you got to recalibrate your throttle position sensor
I'm also wondering that and with the processes is.
The factory and just about everyone says not to ever touch that, screw.
If you do give that screw a slight tweak, then reset the IAC, is it still possible to correctly reset the throttle position sensor?
He didn't show up but I'm going to assume there is a minuscule amount have you turned that torx screw.
Arachnid mess with this title screw becuz of a cam that was put in the screw was sealed factory I was told never to mess with it now trying to set my timing seems like it can never get to proper timing becuz of the screw tampering wat would u sujust that needs to be done what the video shows? Or somthing else? Would appreciate it if u can find me a way out of this situation I have a 1989 scottsdale 350 looks identical to the moter in ur video that u for ur time
What stage do you plug it back in
To what did you hook that meter please?
Did he ever say what he hook meter to yet. Would be helpful.
One I jct sprase all the te does not shut off
Does this apply to a 305 also
My 89 Cheyenne C2500, 4 speed Muncie. Will idle high when it gets hot. I know the egr valve solenoid is not hooked up. Is my issue the a valve. Or is it due to the egr not being hooked up?
Have you checked that gasket under the tbi? Its notorius for breaking
friend, can you help me please, I have a Chevrolet suburban 1500 5.7 vortec 1996, I made the TBI carburetor and distributor, I had the camshaft altered a bit in stage 2 and I put an aluminum radiator with electric fans (the problem is that it It heats up after 15 or 20 minutes and the time according to the mark on the pulley is not left, I move the distributor and not Measure the time) What is the problem? can you help me
Nice job
Is there a way to reset iac valve without using one port because mine has no connection
When setting the base idle with the IAC closed my base idle was super high and I can’t get it to come down at all, checked then entire vacuum system and replaced the throttle body gasket
I'm having the same problem,did you ever get it figured out?
@@bocephus219 my throttle blade had become messed up due to the previous owner and had to replace the tbi. Check your intake manifold gasket all the way around with a stethoscope or with carb cleaner. With the stethoscope you will be able to hear it, with the carb cleaner spray around the whole intake manifold gasket while running and if there is a leak thw idle will raise.
I've sprayed everything with starter fluid and couldn't find a vacuum leak. Just found the previous guy didn't have the distributor tight at all so I got that buttoned up and it's down from 2000 to 1000rpm now. I think mine may be the throttle blades as well. Checking the intake manifold gasket what am I listening for ?
@@bocephus219 check for any slight or large raise in rpm when spraying small amounts around the entire intake manifold on both banks
Rpms never changed. After I got the distributor tightened down it was idling about 1000 which is much better than it was but idle sticks when you give it gas. Maybe something in the throttle body?
Is the alligator clip on the spark plug wire to get the idle?