HELLO! I know its been awhile - sorry to let ya'll know I ain't dead just yet! :) I do have TH289 hats back in inventory again, check the description above if interested. also also, this is the timing light I use - I see its currently discounted! amzn.to/3cvxGzE
You MUST ALWAYS state the obvious, though you can do it quickly. Another obvious question is with what do you make your marks? and where do you get your marker? My timing light was stolen and I have timed by ear ever since.
Cool Maverick man, I really think that old school 5.0L V8 looks badass! I prefer the old carbureted V8 engines and how well they were built back in the old days.
Congratulations on the marriage & thanks for another great video, also I wanted to wish you & your family a happy American Thanksgiving 😎👍👍 I don’t currently have a Facebook, but you may have convinced me to get one😎👍👍
THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge in a teaching way for us younger guys trying to get into classics and having not growing up in the 60s-70s and not knowing this knowledge. not a lot of guys around to share this knowledge. we are lucky to have youtube with guys like you to share!
Congrats on your wedding to your beautiful bride. My wonderful wife of 25 years hollered to me this afternoon that I had some mail in the mailbox. I yelled, "Is it from Ames, Iowa?" She said, "It sure is". YES, my hat is here! Great quality hat, Luke. I can give the ol' Vice Grip Garage hat a break and rock this one for a while. And great video as always. 👌
You're very right when people swap around balancers and timing covers. Sometimes we forget that over 50 years, lots of hands touch these engines and you never really know the history.
I'm helping a friend work on a recently purchased 77 El Camino that came with badly functioning FiTech EFI system. The fuel pump, filters, and fuel lines were not installed correctly. Kinked lines, incorrect pump and filter placement, bad grounds, wiring, etc. It's been interesting and educational, but all the while I keep telling my friend 'You know, a carburetor would be so much simpler'. He hasn't relented.. yet..
I’m actually a programmer for my day job and currently working on something to attach to any carb that autonomously trims the fuel curve. So it’s like some fuel injection benefits, yet still carb
@@flbartlett better - monitor vacuum and afr and adjust via user setpoints to a target AFR. User interface is an app I wrote which doubles as a vacuum gauge and afr gauge
@@ThunderHead289 So you're making your own feedback carburetor system like a lot of vehicles from the 80's had, ie the Electronic Quadrajet? www.hemmings.com/stories/article/carburetion-for-the-new-age I'm guessing this system uses an electrically operated valve between the carb and the fuel line. Does it use an O2 sensor like the aforementioned Electronic Q jet?
Congrats!! Doesn't if feel great when you can do these things yourself? I have followed Luke's advice and he has never steered me wrong. Keep up the good work and cheers from Motown.
I love your Maverick! My buddy is daily driving a 75 Comet in Seattle causing all types of havoc on the streets! Thanks so much for these videos, you are a life saver. I've been battling a 327 in my LUV for some time now and these videos are getting me closer and closer to squaring it away. Keep wrenching!
Hi Luke! Nice to see you again. Congrats on your marriage sir. As you thanked Cindys-sn95, I want to give you a heart felt thank you for all you have taught me. I recurved my MSD, reestablished my TDC, set my timing with the dial back light (thanks for the link on that), tuned my new 750 4160 Holley with the vacuum gauge. The 460 bbf is a monster now! Blessings to you and the wife, cheers from Motown.
Thanks so much for the appreciation and feedback, as you can see from my view counts there is no popularity contest to be won by making tech videos, I truly just do it for you guys. Glad to hear my efforts helped you 🙂
Last time I used a timing light was on my 1966 Chevelle. But I’m hooked on your videos and feel that I’ve learned a lot. Congrats on getting married and thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Keep the vidjas coming man, as a ford guy, you represent us ford guys better than anyone. Just you, the camera, and some old junkers, thats all it takes for me to click on er!!
Great Video!!! I have been meaning to adjust my timing on my '68 Chevelle Malibu (4door) and have been dreading the process of getting the engine at TDC, but I had no idea about this piston stop method! This will make my job soo much easier when adjusting my timing! Thanks for posting this video! It is a real help!
I agree on the timing. The vacuum advance was shot on my 57 Chevrolet 6 cylinder. Couldn't ever get to see the mark in the flywheel. Ran lousy with horrid gas mileage. New vac advance, points, and my OLD direct timing light made all the difference. Never touched the carb.
Hi Luke, I really appreciate your videos. I have learned a lot from you as I tune up my Jeep with a 258 (4.2) I6, Summit HEI and Weber 38. It has gone from sucking wind up hill to a veritable beast.
Fortunately I read about this in "Circle Track" magazine before I found one. I had a heck of a time timing my 390 Mustang at the track. The next week in the shop my troubles continued. I used a piston stop to find TDC and I'll be damned! The timing marks on the harmonic balancer pully were WAY OUT. The rubber vibration dampener had failed and the outer ring had slipped a bunch. I bought a new harmonic dampener, and my timing problems were solved. If using a stock harmonic balancer pully beware! The outer ring can and sometimes does slip and move on the inner ring. You won't be able to properly time your engine, and you can end up with the outer ring through the radiator!
A long time ago you personally helped me with my Camry door light. Now you're gonna help me with my Winnebago (see image). Thank you for the good content and for trying to help people!
Another point I'd like to add in there, is that I have had more than a couple of times where the rubber on the Harmonic balancer will seperate or move slightly, and move your TDC mark.
1996 e350 460 7.5l I haven't had my cam sensor with pointer on my timing cover for years. The new timing cover/water pump didn't have the boss mounts on it. So I recently swapped out distributor and now I'm trying to time it as you noted with the 2 marks. Spout connector out etc. still having a hard time getting it running smooth
You need a mark in-between the two marks - spout connector out indeed, think it's supposed to set to 0 so the computer knows what to do. Regarding the marks - did you make them with a piston stop, or was this a screwdriver in the hole game
Hey man, sorry I would have commented earlier to tell you congrats on getting married, but I was waiting till you made another video before I did so. I am happy for the both of you I hope that her truck that you both worked on together is still running well. God Bless the both of you and keep up the good work!
Hey Luke. I want to thank you for this and all your vids. I recently found you and man, just in time! Im new at this and am currently trying to get a hotrodded 350 running right. Been a struggle so far, as im learning, but your content is helping. My car acts like timing is too advanced so Im about to go verify the rotor position and TDC. Maybe this time!..
Hi Luke congratulations of getting married it looks to be a nice wedding in the picture I saw a month ago you and Kevin crack me up you guys are so funny
A method I used to find TDC was to plug my compression tester into #1 and replace the compression gauge with a vacuum gauge. Once I got in the vicinity of TDC I rocked the car back and forth in gear and observe when the needle went from positive to negative. An even more sensitive variation: I removed the vacuum gauge, attached a longer rubber tube and put the end in my mouth! I was able to detect precisely the midway point between the piston going up and down.
One thing that can be helpful, at TDC crank keyway will be at 12:00. Of course balancer must be removed but good to know when replacing, often older balancer timing marks have shifted.
GREAT explanation, been MANY years since I used a timing light, and NEVER saw one with a dial/knob like that one, and don't understand the use & function of the knob
ive not heard of piston stops before. What you do with them? Screw them in the spark plug hole, turn the motor till it hits the stop? Sounds radical. Turning by hand no damage? Thanks.
That’s exactly what you do - one direction, then the other. The point between the two is TDC. You can’t eyeball TDC perfectly since the piston actually swells as the connecting rod rolls over center - translation, the crank moves for a moment as the piston is changing direction and effectively not moving
Hi to Thunderhead and the group. I am please looking for some ideas or help with my 1970 Pontiac Lemans Sport 350cid. quadrojet, at, no ac early build with mostly 1969 parts from GM. The car is only two owners and originally from California. I purchased it from Mecum Auctions I drove it home about 70 miles and I could smell it was burning rich and could hear pinging or detonation under acceleration. What I have done and where I am at in the project is I rebuilt the entire fuel system, including a new fuel tank, new fuel lines, new vacuum lines and had the carburetor 4bbl qj rebuilt by National Carburetors in Jacksonville FL. I put in a new ac fuel pump and new R45s spark plugs gapped at 0.40". Installed a new pro series high energy ignition distributor kit includes 45K external coil with new plug wires, 8 mm. I disconnected the resistance wire from the old points distributor and installed a new 12 ga wire constant 12v to ign. The new distributor came with advance springs already installed set at 2750 rpms.Using a tdc tool I made sure the number one piston was at tdc on compression stroke. Base timing is 9 degrees btdc. Disconnected the vac.advance line from the proper ported vacuum on the carb and plugged both the line and the carb for timing purposes. I set base timing to 9 degrees and total timing 36 degrees at 2500 rpm. Adjusted the air fuel and get 20 inches of vacuum on the gauge. Hot idle rpm 650-700 rpm with at.. So here is the problem, it seems to run decent but when I snap the throttle, I can hear detonation or pinging. As soon as I retard the timing to eliminate detonation, the rpms drop and the vacuum drops down to 15 and the whole problem of burning rich happens again. I put in fresh non Ethyol 87 octane with the recommended lead additive. Would like your advice please? Thank you. Blake
Thank you for the VERY informative video! I have a 1971 Chevy C10 with a 350 (virtually stock with quadrajet). After restoration and rebuild on motor - ran just fine for about 2k miles. Go on it a few time and noticed a rough idle. Was using manifold vacuum for advance - turns our that diaphragm was shot. Replaced the distributor - now I have okay idle but engine surges and hesitates on acceleration. Runs good if I stay in the pedal - but if I drive it conservatively - problem is enhanced. Idles at 850 rpm in park, 550 in gear when just leaving my home to go to work. When I arrive at work (after engine is fully warmed) - idle is 1000 rpm but if I let it idle for a bit, seems to normalize. Vacuum leak on full warmup? Timing: 12 initial, 30 total. Right now advance is hooked to ported with 5 in at idle, 15 in at half throttle.
Hey Luke. Congrats on the recent nuptials. As for using the Maverick as a winter beater, you'll be sorely disappointed if you get any snow what so ever. I had a '71 Maverick grabber with the 302 and C4 auto, limited slip rear, 60 series BF Goodrich T\A's, and it would get stuck in a flat parking lot with less than 2 inches of snow. It totally sucked. I loved that car, but I would put it away in the winter.
I’m using it to test an autonomous carb control module I programmed, or else I wouldn’t even try. I drove a foxbody through a winter, 4 sandbags in the trunk, snow tires, and with air shocks and these old clunkers can boogie through winter 🤓
Congrats on your recent marriage, Luke. Your videos are so informative. Unfortunately, I needed them 40 years ago, when I could have used them. Still enjoy them, though.
I exactly did what was shown on the video using the piston stop. Turn the crank till it stops make a mark on the pointer. Turn the crank counter clockwise until it stop then make another mark and used the mark between the two mark as top dead center. Re adjusted the distributer having the rotor lined up to the #1 cylinder. Fired the car up and the mark on the balancer is no way near the timing tab on the chain cover. The motor is a 454 big block chevy. Please help!
Harmonic balancers usually come in two pieces with a thin rubber ring in between. It never occurred to me until I started over and not assumed the previous owner's behavior. The outside ring could be some degrees off from it's original position over time. Correct.
1958 AMC Rambler Super here (pt.60) I just watched your video and do t think a timing light can be used for my engine, but I went by the marks on the harmonic balancer, I set up everything for timing very carefully and I have a rebuilt engine I was trying o start up this morning and tried for about two hours and couldn't get it started, I wonder if the marks on the balancer are off? I can also take out a sprak plug to check for spark too...
Thanks Luke some of the simplest things are easily forgotten or overlooked finding true TDC is essential before any tune especially with fords interchangeability when it comes to water pumps and timing locations on specialty applications and putting a late model small block ford where its not supposed to be. Thanks again you are clear and to the point with your vids and i appreciate that keep up the great work.
a while ago, the rubber on the original harmonic balancer on my truck broke and the outer ring slid off-center on the pully and back into the motor. It sounded pretty horrendous as it machined about a 1/8 inch deep flat spot into the aluminum timing chain cover before I got it home and shut off. On the bright side , there is no bright side but I can pretend its fine now that its nice and thin down there.
So I have a question about the advance timing light. Do you point it at your mark then adjust the knob til it lines up then you know where it's at or set what advance you want then turn the distributor til it lines up? I suppose its prolly both depending on if you're trying to find where a vehicle is at vs setting it to where you want it
If the dial says 10 and your timing Mark is lining up with the pointer, you are at ten degrees of advance. If the timing mark isn’t lined up with the pointer with the dial at ten, then it’s not at ten. Does that help?
@@ThunderHead289 I was wondering about that type of timing light too. I'm assuming if the light doesn't light up on "10" for example and you want it at "10", then you rotate the distributor until it gets to 10.
Really lovin the 4 door Maverick build! I've been looking for one for a long time to haul my two boys around in & no luck...only 2 doors seem to be the ones that didn't go to the crushers.
Kevin mentioned you are moving, & are not going to be a part of that channel any longer. You still going to keep this channel going? Gonna miss you guys hanging out at the shop doing the late night streams :(
I was the first channel and I will always be here - My content is firmly grounded in education and tech as it’s my way to give back. Doing TH-cam together was fun when it was actually about the love and enjoyment of the automotive hobby and appreciation for classics that deserve another chance or cars that mean something to someone in a sentimental way. “Revival culture” as I now call it has ruined that, for me it’s not about the views, but that’s what TH-cam has made it about unfortunately.
@@ThunderHead289 Sad that everything always changes for one rea$on or another. I'll watch for you, & congrats on the wedding. Looks like you "married up" :) You are a good dude, or should I say Bloke :)
Thanks for doing this one. It confirmed what I thought you were saying in another video regarding your style of timing light. Now I think I'm ready to re watch some of those other ones!
Hi Luke I liked your video but I've always used the finger in the spark plug hole to get close and then use a small screwdriver and carefully turned the engine over by hand to see where tdc is. It maybe be easier to have a buddy tell you "go up a it or Stop go back a bit" to really get it close. I come from a long background of working in engine shops so checking tdc on the balancer is much easier before heads are installed.
The caveat to doing it that way is that you won’t be perfect if that matters to you. Technically the piston will dwell aka not move for a few degrees of crank rotation as the connecting rod to crank journal rolls over center and reverses direction. You can get within 4 degrees with what you explains but to be absolutely correct you have to do the two point method. Same method used when degreeing a cam and measurements need to be exact.
greeeat way to find tdc on new cars that have variable electronic timing... gotta install an after market tdc gauge since 99-06 4.3l gm did not come with any of the old school tech 😢
I am building my first small block 350 in a C4 corvette the one that came with it. Rebuilt the whole top and. I can no get the thing started the carb backfires. I am almost positive that I am around TDC I I spent weeks of spinning the motor around by hand but now I am lost
@@ThunderHead289 I did one of those quick lash videos I lashed them all down until the push rods just had a tiny wiggle room. Spun the motor 1/4 turn lashed all the loose ones. spun the engine quarter then lashed all the loose ones again a total of 2 engine rotations so 8 times than I did a half turn to lock them all down. If this is incorrect I would like to talk more if this is possible I really don't want to throw the wrench and give up on this car you gotta see what I am building
Congrats! Always disconnect the battery when using a piston stop and rolling an engine over by hand.
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failure to disconnect the battery has resulted in too many mechanical, electrical and medical catastrophes. it's like trying to unload a gun with your finger in the trigger guard. not a smooth move.
one potential problem with the dial in light is that it does not read true! A plain light either works or it doesn't and when so it is right on. You may have covered this but before you go down there turning the crank you need to pull the coil wire to the distributor and ground it as a safety to prevent a start. Yeah you can turn off the ignition and such but sometimes things get forgotten in terms of procedure and safety.
Hey how are you doing I'm a huge fan of your channel keep doing your thing yeah I just got a question can a bad ignition timing make your engine get stuck like it seized up because my 350 small block Chevy engine got a little stuck like it was seized up put it on free itself and it was back running again
I've got a 69 Mark III , 460... I just requested to join your FB group. I've got questions ! You would not BELIEVE how much authority a little vacuum device (vac advance) has over this engine. Vacuum everywhere on this thing !
Both front torque boxes don’t exist - she will go out with her boots on 🙂 When I got over big enough bumps, the whole body flexes because it’s so rotten!
Good content! I checked to make sure my timing mark was at TDC on cylinder 1 and also tuned the carb and got a steady vacuum reading in park and 9 degrees of advance. As soon as I shift into drive my vacuum starts fluctuating, any ideas why?
Congrats to you and Mrs. TH as well.. Welcome back!! Thank you for the great videos!! Glad all is well in TH World. Hope to see your invention go to production!! I'll buy 3!!
Can't figure out why I have a job. No good to have the money if you don't have someone like thunderhead 289 to take care of your vehicles. Wish you were closer, I'd truck everything to you. Great video
Oh man, great tip! I'm going to check this to make sure my mark is correct cus I can't get smooth idle on my 429 for the life of me. This sure could explain things. I already this style of light, so all good there. Doing this first thing tomorrow.
So I got this today. I had 4 degrees on one side of my factory TDC mark, and 9 degrees on the other side. Without doing this, I would have never been able to properly set the timing. Thanks!
Hello. I am going to purchase this timing light. I just built a 350sbc, Comp cam 460-470 lift edelbrock 5089 heads eagle flat top pistons. Had to drill the butterfly to stop pulling constant vacuum thru the ported side. She runs but she is not there. What would you suggest I start with the base timing with this big cam. I'm watching vids and trying to sharpen my very dull tuning skills. Any help is much appreciated. TY.
Congratulations and best wishes. Forgive my slowness but i don't understand why TDC is half way between the marks on the harmonic balancer. If each mark represents the point on the balancer when the #1 piston is at the top of the cylinder then why isn't TDC on one of those marks. I thought that TDC is when the #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke for a 4-stroke engine.
the piston stop stops the piston before TDC - tdc is vertually impossible to measure outright because the piston actually dwells as the connecting rod rolls over center (the crank keeps turning). so for true tdc, you stop it before one direction, then stop it before the other direction. true TDC is located between these two points. does that make sense? if the piston was touching at TDC, theoretically the piston stop would not stop the piston at all.
Each mark does not represent TDC. Each mark is several degrees before or after TDC. Picture a clock that doesn't have 12 marked on it or you're not sure the 12 is in the right place. You bring the minute hand around to (let's just use 10 o'clock). That would be the point where the piston stop hits. Bring the hand back around the other way and it will stop at an equal amount of rotation because the stop length doesn't change, so it'll hit at 2 o'clock. Halfway between those to points will be the actual 12 o'clock, regardless of what might be printed on the dial. If your calculated 12 and the dial face match, well, that's good.
Seems like this procedure would also be helpful for adjusting the piston stop. Rotate forward to stop and back to stop. Take length out of it until the two crank positions stop getting closer.
I have a 1968 Daimler v8 2.5 to get running nicely have to set idle timing at 25 % vacuum not working otherwise pops and farts when you give it gas always ticks over perfect
But doesn’t piston one come to tdc twice? So wouldn’t I want to make sure the piston hits the piston stop and make sure the rotor of my distributor is pointing to piston one on my distributor cap? Or does that not matter?
It doesn’t matter - TDC is TDC is TDC. What you are thinking of is TDC of compression stroke - remember that this is a 4 stroke cycle where the cam rotates once to every two turns of the crank. The TDC mark actually comes up twice, but your timing light only illuminates when cylinder one fires on the power stroke. So in short, the cam s completely irrelevant - hypothetically you could do this with no valvetrain at all entirely.
i have a pertronix billit module 3 in my ford 331 stroker. can i adjust the timing with a single spark timing light? because the billit is a dual spark distributor?
@@ThunderHead289 I have a self build 331 scat 28ounce assembly. And have vibrations from 1800 rpm going harder vibrations when getting more rpm's(inNeutral) t5 conversion and 28 ounce balancer and flywheel .can a wrong ignition timing cause this? I already have put another new flywheel on. And old balancer and have tesame vibrations.
I was just formulating a question in the fb group about why we make two marks and then a 3rd between the two, but i'm quite sure i got it. Would we also need to make sure the dizzy isnt 180 degrees out? Esencially, if im understanding this correctly, the stopper isnt actually "accurate" with TDC, so we are going forward, marking, then back, marking because the point in between is where the piston would have gone if the stopper wernt in the way.. I, at first, pictured the stopper as a gauge that moved up and down freely, so you could see when TDC happens..but that would only work with hemispherical style heads, with the spark plug directly in the middle, pointing down.. Thanks a bunch for the video, i'm pretty sure ill need to do this when i go to set the timing on my F350. The thing sat 30 years..i imagine the marks are just gone. First things first though, the sumbish is gonna have to stop SHOCKING me half the time i touch the dizzy!
This is purely based on the crank, so you don’t need to worry about the valvetrain. Remember, the crank rotates twice to every one cam rotation. So TDC is TDC is TDC. Your timing light only flashes when the plug fires, but actually the crank rotates twice, so TDC will pass once without the timing gun ever firing. TDC of the compression stroke specifically is only on one TDC point, but that TDC point is the same. Does that make sense? And we use this method because the piston actually dwells for a moment as the crank rolls over center. So there are a few degrees of crank rotation that if you were just watching the piston would be absolutely indistinguishable. To be accurate, we have to do that two point method 👍
Ahh! i was so focused on figuring out why it was done with two marks i didn't consider that the spark lights the timing light, and therefore its irrelevant which TDC you use! Awesome. Thanks for the reply!
If I want 32° total timing and i have initial timing at 12btdc, would i set the timing light to 20°? and when adding that 20°, should it line up at the 12btdc mark or the 0° mark?
If the timing light is at 20 and the mark lines up, your timing is at 20. If your timing light is at 20, and your mark doesn’t line up, your not at 20. No math involved.
Thank you for this. I’m really interesting in getting a 70’s truck as my first project truck. Does anyone have any recommendations on what i should get (ford or chevy?) i am very new to the car scene.
So it might sound like a stupid question, but it’s my first engine build, how do I ORIGINALLY set my harmonic balancer so my timing marks are lined up, if you know what I mean?
You let the engine tell you based on throttle blade position. But if you don't want to learn anything and just would like to throw a number at it, 12-16 will probably end up being most optimal
HELLO! I know its been awhile - sorry to let ya'll know I ain't dead just yet! :)
I do have TH289 hats back in inventory again, check the description above if interested.
also also, this is the timing light I use - I see its currently discounted! amzn.to/3cvxGzE
You MUST ALWAYS state the obvious, though you can do it quickly. Another obvious question is with what do you make your marks? and where do you get your marker?
My timing light was stolen and I have timed by ear ever since.
Cool Maverick man, I really think that old school 5.0L V8 looks badass! I prefer the old carbureted V8 engines and how well they were built back in the old days.
Congratulations on the marriage & thanks for another great video, also I wanted to wish you & your family a happy American Thanksgiving 😎👍👍
I don’t currently have a Facebook, but you may have convinced me to get one😎👍👍
Would have been better for me if you actually used the timing light on the vehicle in this demonstration.
Isnt this kind of like cam degreeing to find tdc c#1?
Welcome back Luke, Congratulations on getting married
Why thank you!
THANK YOU for sharing your knowledge in a teaching way for us younger guys trying to get into classics and having not growing up in the 60s-70s and not knowing this knowledge. not a lot of guys around to share this knowledge. we are lucky to have youtube with guys like you to share!
Welcome back Luke. Congrats to you and Mrs. Thunderhead. May you have a wonderful and long life together. Stay safe, God Bless.
Congrats on your wedding to your beautiful bride. My wonderful wife of 25 years hollered to me this afternoon that I had some mail in the mailbox. I yelled, "Is it from Ames, Iowa?" She said, "It sure is". YES, my hat is here! Great quality hat, Luke. I can give the ol' Vice Grip Garage hat a break and rock this one for a while. And great video as always. 👌
You sound just like my auto instructor in 1979 carburation and tune-up guy. Got a lot of respect for him You as well.
You're very right when people swap around balancers and timing covers. Sometimes we forget that over 50 years, lots of hands touch these engines and you never really know the history.
I'm helping a friend work on a recently purchased 77 El Camino that came with badly functioning FiTech EFI system. The fuel pump, filters, and fuel lines were not installed correctly. Kinked lines, incorrect pump and filter placement, bad grounds, wiring, etc. It's been interesting and educational, but all the while I keep telling my friend 'You know, a carburetor would be so much simpler'. He hasn't relented.. yet..
I’m actually a programmer for my day job and currently working on something to attach to any carb that autonomously trims the fuel curve. So it’s like some fuel injection benefits, yet still carb
@@ThunderHead289 Interesting. Will it monitor and adjust for barometric pressure?
@@flbartlett better - monitor vacuum and afr and adjust via user setpoints to a target AFR. User interface is an app I wrote which doubles as a vacuum gauge and afr gauge
@@ThunderHead289 So you're making your own feedback carburetor system like a lot of vehicles from the 80's had, ie the Electronic Quadrajet? www.hemmings.com/stories/article/carburetion-for-the-new-age
I'm guessing this system uses an electrically operated valve between the carb and the fuel line. Does it use an O2 sensor like the aforementioned Electronic Q jet?
@@RodBeauvex those were junk because the tech wasn’t there advancement wise, plus that was only on a specific carburetor
My man. While u were gone i successfully fixed my brakes, timed my engine, tested for vacuum and adjusted my choke. Proud newbie here!
you probably would have been better off fixing your Brakes ;)
@@LarkspeedNL lol
Congrats!! Doesn't if feel great when you can do these things yourself? I have followed Luke's advice and he has never steered me wrong. Keep up the good work and cheers from Motown.
@@robertclymer6948 It really does!
I love your Maverick! My buddy is daily driving a 75 Comet in Seattle causing all types of havoc on the streets! Thanks so much for these videos, you are a life saver. I've been battling a 327 in my LUV for some time now and these videos are getting me closer and closer to squaring it away. Keep wrenching!
Hi Luke! Nice to see you again. Congrats on your marriage sir. As you thanked Cindys-sn95, I want to give you a heart felt thank you for all you have taught me. I recurved my MSD, reestablished my TDC, set my timing with the dial back light (thanks for the link on that), tuned my new 750 4160 Holley with the vacuum gauge. The 460 bbf is a monster now! Blessings to you and the wife, cheers from Motown.
Thanks so much for the appreciation and feedback, as you can see from my view counts there is no popularity contest to be won by making tech videos, I truly just do it for you guys. Glad to hear my efforts helped you 🙂
im running a modded 1969 Lincoln 460 in my hotrod. cant seem to get it to stop running rich. hoping these vids will get it right
Last time I used a timing light was on my 1966 Chevelle. But I’m hooked on your videos and feel that I’ve learned a lot. Congrats on getting married and thanks for sharing the knowledge.
Keep the vidjas coming man, as a ford guy, you represent us ford guys better than anyone. Just you, the camera, and some old junkers, thats all it takes for me to click on er!!
He really does represent Ford better than anybody
Great Video!!! I have been meaning to adjust my timing on my '68 Chevelle Malibu (4door) and have been dreading the process of getting the engine at TDC, but I had no idea about this piston stop method! This will make my job soo much easier when adjusting my timing! Thanks for posting this video! It is a real help!
WELCOME BACK congratulations on your marriage and glad you are back you were missed
I agree on the timing. The vacuum advance was shot on my 57 Chevrolet 6 cylinder. Couldn't ever get to see the mark in the flywheel. Ran lousy with horrid gas mileage. New vac advance, points, and my OLD direct timing light made all the difference. Never touched the carb.
Old post I know but did you use the harmonic balancer for timing as shown in the video? I have a Chevy inline six and I'm having timing issues myself
Your tech videos are always so on point man. You have excellent delivery
Thanks! Also thank good for editing software 🤓
@@ThunderHead289 😂Hey I'm still trying to figure that part out.
Hi Luke, I really appreciate your videos. I have learned a lot from you as I tune up my Jeep with a 258 (4.2) I6, Summit HEI and Weber 38. It has gone from sucking wind up hill to a veritable beast.
Fortunately I read about this in "Circle Track" magazine before I found one.
I had a heck of a time timing my 390 Mustang at the track. The next week in the shop my troubles continued. I used a piston stop to find TDC and I'll be damned! The timing marks on the harmonic balancer pully were WAY OUT. The rubber vibration dampener had failed and the outer ring had slipped a bunch. I bought a new harmonic dampener, and my timing problems were solved.
If using a stock harmonic balancer pully beware! The outer ring can and sometimes does slip and move on the inner ring. You won't be able to properly time your engine, and you can end up with the outer ring through the radiator!
A long time ago you personally helped me with my Camry door light. Now you're gonna help me with my Winnebago (see image). Thank you for the good content and for trying to help people!
Good morning I have a question on FE 390 why timing bounce around .
I have a msd distributor on this engine.
Some timing lights don’t handle multispark well, I’d be willing to bet it’s your timing light struggling, not your timing moving around
Oh ok so there's any way that I can check timing also for piston stoper that works fine to set up or find tdc
This step is very very important learned that my pop 40 years ago , with 1967 oldsmobile 442
Another point I'd like to add in there, is that I have had more than a couple of times where the rubber on the Harmonic balancer will seperate or move slightly, and move your TDC mark.
1996 e350 460 7.5l
I haven't had my cam sensor with pointer on my timing cover for years. The new timing cover/water pump didn't have the boss mounts on it. So I recently swapped out distributor and now I'm trying to time it as you noted with the 2 marks. Spout connector out etc. still having a hard time getting it running smooth
You need a mark in-between the two marks - spout connector out indeed, think it's supposed to set to 0 so the computer knows what to do.
Regarding the marks - did you make them with a piston stop, or was this a screwdriver in the hole game
Hey man, sorry I would have commented earlier to tell you congrats on getting married, but I was waiting till you made another video before I did so. I am happy for the both of you I hope that her truck that you both worked on together is still running well. God Bless the both of you and keep up the good work!
Hey Luke. I want to thank you for this and all your vids. I recently found you and man, just in time! Im new at this and am currently trying to get a hotrodded 350 running right. Been a struggle so far, as im learning, but your content is helping. My car acts like timing is too advanced so Im about to go verify the rotor position and TDC. Maybe this time!..
Wondering how ot worked out for you.
Hi Luke congratulations of getting married it looks to be a nice wedding in the picture I saw a month ago you and Kevin crack me up you guys are so funny
That was very interesting video Thunderhead 289
A method I used to find TDC was to plug my compression tester into #1 and replace the compression gauge with a vacuum gauge. Once I got in the vicinity of TDC I rocked the car back and forth in gear and observe when the needle went from positive to negative. An even more sensitive variation: I removed the vacuum gauge, attached a longer rubber tube and put the end in my mouth! I was able to detect precisely the midway point between the piston going up and down.
You can’t do it exactly since the piston technically dwells for a moment as the crank continues to rotate.
You will be close, don’t get me wrong
One thing that can be helpful, at TDC crank keyway will be at 12:00. Of course balancer must be removed but good to know when replacing, often older balancer timing marks have shifted.
Thank you for the advice. My engine had the wrong balancer and the mark was way off. Did your procedure and was able to get it dialed in
I bought a xenon timing light with an advance dial at Harbor Freight. My uncle had a '72 Maverick with a six.
Thank You. Some thing so Simple But Many Times Not thought Of...
GREAT explanation, been MANY years since I used a timing light, and NEVER saw one with a dial/knob like that one, and don't understand the use & function of the knob
ive not heard of piston stops before. What you do with them? Screw them in the spark plug hole, turn the motor till it hits the stop? Sounds radical. Turning by hand no damage? Thanks.
That’s exactly what you do - one direction, then the other. The point between the two is TDC. You can’t eyeball TDC perfectly since the piston actually swells as the connecting rod rolls over center - translation, the crank moves for a moment as the piston is changing direction and effectively not moving
I think he meant to say "dwells" not swells. And yes, turn by hand slowly.
Hi to Thunderhead and the group. I am please looking for some ideas or help with my 1970 Pontiac Lemans Sport 350cid. quadrojet, at, no ac early build with mostly 1969 parts from GM. The car is only two owners and originally from California. I purchased it from Mecum Auctions I drove it home about 70 miles and I could smell it was burning rich and could hear pinging or detonation under acceleration. What I have done and where I am at in the project is I rebuilt the entire fuel system, including a new fuel tank, new fuel lines, new vacuum lines and had the carburetor 4bbl qj rebuilt by National Carburetors in Jacksonville FL. I put in a new ac fuel pump and new R45s spark plugs gapped at 0.40". Installed a new pro series high energy ignition distributor kit includes 45K external coil with new plug wires, 8 mm. I disconnected the resistance wire from the old points distributor and installed a new 12 ga wire constant 12v to ign. The new distributor came with advance springs already installed set at 2750 rpms.Using a tdc tool I made sure the number one piston was at tdc on compression stroke. Base timing is 9 degrees btdc. Disconnected the vac.advance line from the proper ported vacuum on the carb and plugged both the line and the carb for timing purposes. I set base timing to 9 degrees and total timing 36 degrees at 2500 rpm. Adjusted the air fuel and get 20 inches of vacuum on the gauge. Hot idle rpm 650-700 rpm with at.. So here is the problem, it seems to run decent but when I snap the throttle, I can hear detonation or pinging. As soon as I retard the timing to eliminate detonation, the rpms drop and the vacuum drops down to 15 and the whole problem of burning rich happens again. I put in fresh non Ethyol 87 octane with the recommended lead additive. Would like your advice please? Thank you. Blake
Thank you for the VERY informative video! I have a 1971 Chevy C10 with a 350 (virtually stock with quadrajet). After restoration and rebuild on motor - ran just fine for about 2k miles. Go on it a few time and noticed a rough idle. Was using manifold vacuum for advance - turns our that diaphragm was shot. Replaced the distributor - now I have okay idle but engine surges and hesitates on acceleration. Runs good if I stay in the pedal - but if I drive it conservatively - problem is enhanced. Idles at 850 rpm in park, 550 in gear when just leaving my home to go to work. When I arrive at work (after engine is fully warmed) - idle is 1000 rpm but if I let it idle for a bit, seems to normalize. Vacuum leak on full warmup? Timing: 12 initial, 30 total. Right now advance is hooked to ported with 5 in at idle, 15 in at half throttle.
Hey Luke show us how to set up the choke, fast idle cam, and the lean/rich settings on a 2150
Hey Luke. Congrats on the recent nuptials. As for using the Maverick as a winter beater, you'll be sorely disappointed if you get any snow what so ever. I had a '71 Maverick grabber with the 302 and C4 auto, limited slip rear, 60 series BF Goodrich T\A's, and it would get stuck in a flat parking lot with less than 2 inches of snow. It totally sucked. I loved that car, but I would put it away in the winter.
I’m using it to test an autonomous carb control module I programmed, or else I wouldn’t even try. I drove a foxbody through a winter, 4 sandbags in the trunk, snow tires, and with air shocks and these old clunkers can boogie through winter 🤓
Congrats on your recent marriage, Luke. Your videos are so informative. Unfortunately, I needed them 40 years ago, when I could have used them. Still enjoy them, though.
I exactly did what was shown on the video using the piston stop. Turn the crank till it stops make a mark on the pointer. Turn the crank counter clockwise until it stop then make another mark and used the mark between the two mark as top dead center. Re adjusted the distributer having the rotor lined up to the #1 cylinder. Fired the car up and the mark on the balancer is no way near the timing tab on the chain cover. The motor is a 454 big block chevy. Please help!
Pull your distrbuter out and reset it on #1
Harmonic balancers usually come in two pieces with a thin rubber ring in between. It never occurred to me until I started over and not assumed the previous owner's behavior. The outside ring could be some degrees off from it's original position over time. Correct.
Out of the subject what would be the best thing to use to seize a 1973 d200 318 motor
Good question for the revival boys
Welcome back luke, congrats as well, cannot wait to see your next vid.
Good to be back - I feel like Iv taught all my knowledge these days!!!
1958 AMC Rambler Super here (pt.60) I just watched your video and do t think a timing light can be used for my engine, but I went by the marks on the harmonic balancer, I set up everything for timing very carefully and I have a rebuilt engine I was trying o start up this morning and tried for about two hours and couldn't get it started, I wonder if the marks on the balancer are off? I can also take out a sprak plug to check for spark too...
Thanks Luke some of the simplest things are easily forgotten or overlooked finding true TDC is essential
before any tune especially with fords interchangeability when it comes to water pumps and timing locations
on specialty applications and putting a late model small block ford where its not supposed to be. Thanks
again you are clear and to the point with your vids and i appreciate that keep up the great work.
a while ago, the rubber on the original harmonic balancer on my truck broke and the outer ring slid off-center on the pully and back into the motor. It sounded pretty horrendous as it machined about a 1/8 inch deep flat spot into the aluminum timing chain cover before I got it home and shut off. On the bright side , there is no bright side but I can pretend its fine now that its nice and thin down there.
Piston stop.. Pretty smart. I always used screw driver and estimated it.
Will have to convert
So I have a question about the advance timing light. Do you point it at your mark then adjust the knob til it lines up then you know where it's at or set what advance you want then turn the distributor til it lines up? I suppose its prolly both depending on if you're trying to find where a vehicle is at vs setting it to where you want it
If the dial says 10 and your timing Mark is lining up with the pointer, you are at ten degrees of advance. If the timing mark isn’t lined up with the pointer with the dial at ten, then it’s not at ten.
Does that help?
@@ThunderHead289 I was wondering about that type of timing light too. I'm assuming if the light doesn't light up on "10" for example and you want it at "10", then you rotate the distributor until it gets to 10.
Really lovin the 4 door Maverick build! I've been looking for one for a long time to haul my two boys around in & no luck...only 2 doors seem to be the ones that didn't go to the crushers.
Finally! Congratulations on getting married. I was devastated, LOL
Congratulations on your recent nuptials!
I’m getting closer
Kevin mentioned you are moving, & are not going to be a part of that channel any longer. You still going to keep this channel going? Gonna miss you guys hanging out at the shop doing the late night streams :(
I was the first channel and I will always be here - My content is firmly grounded in education and tech as it’s my way to give back.
Doing TH-cam together was fun when it was actually about the love and enjoyment of the automotive hobby and appreciation for classics that deserve another chance or cars that mean something to someone in a sentimental way.
“Revival culture” as I now call it has ruined that, for me it’s not about the views, but that’s what TH-cam has made it about unfortunately.
@@ThunderHead289 Sad that everything always changes for one rea$on or another. I'll watch for you, & congrats on the wedding. Looks like you "married up" :) You are a good dude, or should I say Bloke :)
Oi mate, many thanks!
I married a veterinarian. But she’s kind of short, so technically “down” 😂
Thanks for doing this one. It confirmed what I thought you were saying in another video regarding your style of timing light. Now I think I'm ready to re watch some of those other ones!
Hi Luke I liked your video but I've always used the finger in the spark plug hole to get close and then use a small screwdriver and carefully turned the engine over by hand to see where tdc is. It maybe be easier to have a buddy tell you "go up a it or Stop go back a bit" to really get it close. I come from a long background of working in engine shops so checking tdc on the balancer is much easier before heads are installed.
The caveat to doing it that way is that you won’t be perfect if that matters to you. Technically the piston will dwell aka not move for a few degrees of crank rotation as the connecting rod to crank journal rolls over center and reverses direction.
You can get within 4 degrees with what you explains but to be absolutely correct you have to do the two point method. Same method used when degreeing a cam and measurements need to be exact.
greeeat way to find tdc on new cars that have variable electronic timing... gotta install an after market tdc gauge since 99-06 4.3l gm did not come with any of the old school tech 😢
I am building my first small block 350 in a C4 corvette the one that came with it. Rebuilt the whole top and. I can no get the thing started the carb backfires. I am almost positive that I am around TDC I I spent weeks of spinning the motor around by hand but now I am lost
What you see in this video will confirm it - also, you may have done your valve adjustment incorrectly, how did you do that peice?
@@ThunderHead289 I did one of those quick lash videos I lashed them all down until the push rods just had a tiny wiggle room. Spun the motor 1/4 turn lashed all the loose ones. spun the engine quarter then lashed all the loose ones again a total of 2 engine rotations so 8 times than I did a half turn to lock them all down. If this is incorrect I would like to talk more if this is possible I really don't want to throw the wrench and give up on this car you gotta see what I am building
Congrats! Always disconnect the battery when using a piston stop and rolling an engine over by hand.
failure to disconnect the battery has resulted in too many mechanical, electrical and medical catastrophes.
it's like trying to unload a gun with your finger in the trigger guard. not a smooth move.
Thats a sweet build bro
one potential problem with the dial in light is that it does not read true! A plain light either works or it doesn't and when so it is right on. You may have covered this but before you go down there turning the crank you need to pull the coil wire to the distributor and ground it as a safety to prevent a start. Yeah you can turn off the ignition and such but sometimes things get forgotten in terms of procedure and safety.
Hey how are you doing I'm a huge fan of your channel keep doing your thing yeah I just got a question can a bad ignition timing make your engine get stuck like it seized up because my 350 small block Chevy engine got a little stuck like it was seized up put it on free itself and it was back running again
I've got a 69 Mark III , 460... I just requested to join your FB group. I've got questions ! You would not BELIEVE how much authority a little vacuum device (vac advance) has over this engine. Vacuum everywhere on this thing !
hey luke good to see you back ... dude dont put this beauty in the snow man ,,baby girl need to be inside for the winter man
Both front torque boxes don’t exist - she will go out with her boots on 🙂
When I got over big enough bumps, the whole body flexes because it’s so rotten!
I was #334!!! I saved you from being half evil!!!
Good content! I checked to make sure my timing mark was at TDC on cylinder 1 and also tuned the carb and got a steady vacuum reading in park and 9 degrees of advance. As soon as I shift into drive my vacuum starts fluctuating, any ideas why?
Congrats to you and Mrs. TH as well.. Welcome back!! Thank you for the great videos!! Glad all is well in TH World.
Hope to see your invention go to production!! I'll buy 3!!
Can't figure out why I have a job. No good to have the money if you don't have someone like thunderhead 289 to take care of your vehicles. Wish you were closer, I'd truck everything to you. Great video
AWESOME post ,much needed as I'm having these issues on my sbc. 👍😎
Oh man, great tip! I'm going to check this to make sure my mark is correct cus I can't get smooth idle on my 429 for the life of me. This sure could explain things. I already this style of light, so all good there. Doing this first thing tomorrow.
So I got this today. I had 4 degrees on one side of my factory TDC mark, and 9 degrees on the other side. Without doing this, I would have never been able to properly set the timing. Thanks!
What mufflers do you got on that car in the beginning of video sounds good
Glad to see you again .Great video as usual . Great info .Thanks and Congrats on getting married!👍👍😎
Hello. I am going to purchase this timing light. I just built a 350sbc, Comp cam 460-470 lift edelbrock 5089 heads eagle flat top pistons. Had to drill the butterfly to stop pulling constant vacuum thru the ported side. She runs but she is not there. What would you suggest I start with the base timing with this big cam. I'm watching vids and trying to sharpen my very dull tuning skills. Any help is much appreciated. TY.
I’m glad your back . Bring the fox body back love your videos
Love the new headlights in the maverick Luke @ThunderHead289
This is the information I needed. Thanks
Can't wait to hear that background 😍
The Maverick sure sounds much healthier than it did. No more “tappity-tap-tap” valvetrain.
I have since went and done the valve lash correctly 👍
@@ThunderHead289 Also are those Rotstang remains in the background?
Congratulations and best wishes. Forgive my slowness but i don't understand why TDC is half way between the marks on the harmonic balancer. If each mark represents the point on the balancer when the #1 piston is at the top of the cylinder then why isn't TDC on one of those marks. I thought that TDC is when the #1 cylinder is at the top of the compression stroke for a 4-stroke engine.
the piston stop stops the piston before TDC - tdc is vertually impossible to measure outright because the piston actually dwells as the connecting rod rolls over center (the crank keeps turning). so for true tdc, you stop it before one direction, then stop it before the other direction. true TDC is located between these two points.
does that make sense? if the piston was touching at TDC, theoretically the piston stop would not stop the piston at all.
Each mark does not represent TDC. Each mark is several degrees before or after TDC. Picture a clock that doesn't have 12 marked on it or you're not sure the 12 is in the right place. You bring the minute hand around to (let's just use 10 o'clock). That would be the point where the piston stop hits. Bring the hand back around the other way and it will stop at an equal amount of rotation because the stop length doesn't change, so it'll hit at 2 o'clock. Halfway between those to points will be the actual 12 o'clock, regardless of what might be printed on the dial. If your calculated 12 and the dial face match, well, that's good.
Seems like this procedure would also be helpful for adjusting the piston stop. Rotate forward to stop and back to stop. Take length out of it until the two crank positions stop getting closer.
How do you know how far back to turn it? Could you put a screw driver in and the tdc would be the high point of the screwdriver and vice versa?
Yes you can do this as well and as soon as the screw driver stops going up or down that is your tdc.
That’s a Maverick?It looks like a Comet.Oh well,same thing I guess lol great video.But shouldn’t you find TDC with the number 1 cyl valves closed?
I really love the look this car. Thanks to share.
How would I verify timing on a 2010 Mazda CX-9 (ford duratec 3.7) other than just lining up the 3 marks, 2 on the phasers and 1 on the crank?
So, a timing tab, which may not be original to the build doesn't come into play if your using a piston stop. Correct?
Correct indeed
I have a 1968 Daimler v8 2.5 to get running nicely have to set idle timing at 25 % vacuum not working otherwise pops and farts when you give it gas always ticks over perfect
But doesn’t piston one come to tdc twice? So wouldn’t I want to make sure the piston hits the piston stop and make sure the rotor of my distributor is pointing to piston one on my distributor cap? Or does that not matter?
It doesn’t matter - TDC is TDC is TDC.
What you are thinking of is TDC of compression stroke - remember that this is a 4 stroke cycle where the cam rotates once to every two turns of the crank.
The TDC mark actually comes up twice, but your timing light only illuminates when cylinder one fires on the power stroke.
So in short, the cam s completely irrelevant - hypothetically you could do this with no valvetrain at all entirely.
i have a pertronix billit module 3 in my ford 331 stroker. can i adjust the timing with a single spark timing light? because the billit is a dual spark distributor?
Multspark is more like 3, but yes most timing lights will work on multispark. 3 quick sparks and then a long dwell comparatively. Most work
@@ThunderHead289
I have a self build 331 scat 28ounce assembly. And have vibrations from 1800 rpm going harder vibrations when getting more rpm's(inNeutral) t5 conversion and 28 ounce balancer and flywheel .can a wrong ignition timing cause this? I already have put another new flywheel on. And old balancer and have tesame vibrations.
I was just formulating a question in the fb group about why we make two marks and then a 3rd between the two, but i'm quite sure i got it. Would we also need to make sure the dizzy isnt 180 degrees out?
Esencially, if im understanding this correctly, the stopper isnt actually "accurate" with TDC, so we are going forward, marking, then back, marking because the point in between is where the piston would have gone if the stopper wernt in the way..
I, at first, pictured the stopper as a gauge that moved up and down freely, so you could see when TDC happens..but that would only work with hemispherical style heads, with the spark plug directly in the middle, pointing down..
Thanks a bunch for the video, i'm pretty sure ill need to do this when i go to set the timing on my F350. The thing sat 30 years..i imagine the marks are just gone. First things first though, the sumbish is gonna have to stop SHOCKING me half the time i touch the dizzy!
This is purely based on the crank, so you don’t need to worry about the valvetrain. Remember, the crank rotates twice to every one cam rotation. So TDC is TDC is TDC. Your timing light only flashes when the plug fires, but actually the crank rotates twice, so TDC will pass once without the timing gun ever firing.
TDC of the compression stroke specifically is only on one TDC point, but that TDC point is the same.
Does that make sense?
And we use this method because the piston actually dwells for a moment as the crank rolls over center. So there are a few degrees of crank rotation that if you were just watching the piston would be absolutely indistinguishable. To be accurate, we have to do that two point method 👍
Ahh! i was so focused on figuring out why it was done with two marks i didn't consider that the spark lights the timing light, and therefore its irrelevant which TDC you use! Awesome. Thanks for the reply!
Great Video, I am building a maverick now, i need this info, it helps me greatly Thanks
Welcome back Luke!!! Congrats on getting married!!! Good to see you putting out some new videos!!
good to be back! I got some unique stuff brewing in the thunderhead289 engineering corner :)
piston stops can cause bent valves. it can be good to know.some have learned it the hard way
Hey Luke
What is your take on MSD systems needing a special light? Of course a chinee msd unit without dial back...
Congrats Big Fella on the weddin (Australian accent) Good to see ya back!!!
So the piston stop tool isn't actually stopping the piston at TDC, just identical places on 2 different strokes?
Correct. You stop the piston several degrees on each side of TDC.
@@raoulcruz4404 right on. Thanks.
If I want 32° total timing and i have initial timing at 12btdc, would i set the timing light to 20°? and when adding that 20°, should it line up at the 12btdc mark or the 0° mark?
If the timing light is at 20 and the mark lines up, your timing is at 20. If your timing light is at 20, and your mark doesn’t line up, your not at 20.
No math involved.
Dumb question, is the light supposed to come on ,when you at TDC, and whatever the advance is??
Congrats on your recent marriage. It was the best thing I did thirty years ago and thank you for another informative video.
This might be a dumb question but when you turn the dial on the timing light do you turn the distributor also ?
Hey bud thats the part im confused at sbc gen 1 is how far to turn the inner screw.. Thanks if you have any idea..
When you say the inner screw, I guess I’m confused what you are referring to
you have the part that screws in the head. Im talking about the screw in part that hiys the piston. thanks
Thank you for this. I’m really interesting in getting a 70’s truck as my first project truck. Does anyone have any recommendations on what i should get (ford or chevy?) i am very new to the car scene.
Something simple - 3 pulley style, do manual steering and definitely manual trans. These are the easiest by far to work on and largely just immortal
Marksman2oo7 Dodge power wagon 1972
So it might sound like a stupid question, but it’s my first engine build, how do I ORIGINALLY set my harmonic balancer so my timing marks are lined up, if you know what I mean?
I was wondering when you were coming out with a new video.
Contrary to popular belief, I actually don’t enjoy making making videos - I do like helping folks, hence why I’m here
Was hoping you and Junkyard digs would have been invited to be a team at Cleetus' lemullet crown vic race.
So what’s the magic number for base timing for 1990 351 windsor? I’ve heard 6 btdc all the way up to 12 btdc.
You let the engine tell you based on throttle blade position. But if you don't want to learn anything and just would like to throw a number at it, 12-16 will probably end up being most optimal
@@ThunderHead289 thank you. I’m always wanting to learn all I can, I just wanted a good starting point