ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ค. 2024
- Gamers nexus video featuring my rog ally mods
• HW News - Steam Deck O...
Ally spring mod
• Rog Ally Joystick Spri...
UGREEN 145W Power Bank Bundle with 100W 1-Pack 3.3FT USB C Cable a.co/d/6quvQ1m
UGREEN 100W 20000mAh Power Bank, Nexode Portable Charger USB C 3-Port PD3.0 Battery Pack Digital Display, Compatible with MacBook Pro, Laptop, iPhone 15/14/13/12 Series, Samsung, AirPods, and More a.co/d/2O9grXq
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watch the ultimate backpate showdown! 3 Different backplates go head to head! + tips and tricks to get better thermals and performance using 2280 nvme with custom backplates. th-cam.com/video/itFBctxWLl4/w-d-xo.html
Another genuine and passionate video for the ROG Ally. Thanks for taking us through the significance of the DIY joysticks. We all want the best out of our handhelds like with battery life and videos like yours help us do just that.
Thanks brudduh ! ❤️🤠
I got the same green battery and it is well worth it. I used on my flights to Spain and I was playing sce combat 7 the whole flight. I also use my xreal air glasses with the rog ally
That gamers nexus video is how I found your channel 👍
Eyyyyy heck heck man!!!! Steve is the goat 🐐
I have The JSAUX case and it’s NICE! HOWEVER! I hate the mounting adapters for the battery packs, they just sorta hung there and didn’t lock in so I just used adhesive heavy duty Velcro instead. Worked WAY better, and the adhesive is easily removable so if you want to take it off it easily peels off without leaving any residue and tackiness. The JSAUX battery packs are nice as well, definitely recommend them just keep in mind that they are based in china so expect a whole month to ship.
For my Wh fam, CPPC's power bank is 72Wh, this means your Ally's total theoretical power is 112Wh, which should translate to maybe around ~3hrs or so at full tilt (30W Turbo), or around double that at 15W mode.
Also, there's some AI channel I know personally that has done an optimization video that will help to debloat and improve some performance on your Ally.. ;)
Thanks for the info. Def does really make a difference on the go
very nice mods clips congrats your power bank mod tho seems a little dangerous because in you stuck this big power bank on the back of the ally most probably it gonna close the air vents and you will have increased temps...
Actually no it leaves plenty of room for air to come in through plus with all my other cooling mods and the way it’s setup there’s no noticeable temp difference. I plan on doing a deeper dive on my experience and settings used
Wow 🤩 that’s amazing that someone making a video off your vid. No better compliment than that. And I’m the only Steve u should be thanking 🙏🏿 bro 😎 lol 😂
Yeee yee thanks Steve
Another great video! I was wondering can you suggest a dock that easily portable and travels well? I’m looking for something I can throw in my Hounyoln EVA case with a charger to take on trips. Keep up the great work!
Check out the cablecreation docks they have some really thin and skinny ones that work well. Ugreen has a few also.
@@cppctek thanks! Picked one up and a 100w Ugreen charger. I am wondering why my Ally is saying it’s not getting enough charge from it though? it does enable 30w mode though 🤷♂️
Try a different usb c cable. Be sure it’s rated for 100w or more and also not too long. The longer they are the less efficient they are. Also be sure it’s on the right port too.
Yeah I tried all the ports in the charger. Listing says it’s rated for 100w though I did get the 10ft as I have a use case for another USB C device that I needed longer cord for. Maybe 10ft was excessive but I didn’t realize length would be a factor….
@JohnRGoudy oh wow. Yeah no longer than 3 foot is really good for that much power. You won’t be able to charge good at all over 3 feet. That’s why most of the usb c cables rated at 100w are between 3-6 foot but I usually have a lot of issues the longer they are. They in theory can handle it on paper but as you see they just can’t keep up. Try out the ugreen 100w 3ft cable and it won’t let you down.
I took out my hall sticks as well, I was just getting tired of fighting with them to get them perfect for me
Same, def was hoping things would have been improved.
I play most games 720/900p on my ally most games the difference is really small especially if your playing on high settings. I wish we the ally had like 60wh battery because it does suck . I can only do 1 game of smite conquest before charging
I have a VTOMAN Jump 600x for the 😅"END OF TIMES" scenario on standby. It has a 67w usb c output, and i can play for at least 8 hours. $400 aussie dollars. Bulky, but you woulddnt be gaming while having atour hey?
Forgot to metnion they are like car size battery that can power fridges and stuff. I do have the portable power banks too but an extra hour is just not enough for me lol.
OMG... never...NEVERRR turn of the 120 hz mode, VRR wont worck at 60 hz, even if you are runing at 30 fps and under ther is another sistems like VRR that makes the game smode, but they only work at 120 hz
I never play games usually that hit that low on the fps. Usually I’m hitting a target of 100-120fps for example on modern warfare and forza. I always run 120hz and don’t run into any issues. Tune your system and your games individually for your fps target
@@cppctek im currently playing Alan wake 2 It run at 25/30 FPS all low 900p the Game fils a lot better wen the ally is set to 120hz than 60 hz
Oh yeah that’s a tough one to play for sure. I would suggest to make sure you utilize fsr and set everything as low as possible. Probably would do better at 60hz on that one since it’s def never going to hit 60fps likely
@@cppctekenglish is not mi native language, you are not understanding me. one of the Best features of the rog Ally is the VRR screen, the VRR is only turn on wen you set the Ally to 120hz.
@@MrShivedragon which is wrong, it also works in 60 Hz, just take a look in adrenalyn after setting your screen at 60 Hz, it still indicate the VRR range with the 60 Hz limitation.
ill tell you how to double the battery life all you have to do is.......add a battery bank.... awesome
The other solution is spending upwards to 200$ and permanently damaging your device. You pick brother. That was the one everyone kept pushing
Hall effect is important on right analog because its the one you use for aiming
Half effects don’t really help with accuracy they just are supposed to last longer without drift. And I use both sticks while moving and aiming. I don’t use the d pad to move
i also bought a 40000mah remax powerbank, and need to use a good usb c cable to activate the turbo mode, if you using those uncertified usb c cable, it can charge while you gaming, but you need to manually activate to 25w turbo mode.
On a good power bank and cable you can do the 30w turbo mode not just the 25w turbo mode. The 30w can boost to much higher than the 25 can and if your bank is 40,000mah you need to look at the wattage output per port to see if it’s able to at least to 65w out on a single usb c port. Def I’d demand a 40k mah bank to do 30w turbo if my 25k one can
@@cppctek ya, the powerbank support 65w PD charging, superb, bring to airport to play game, weeee
1 min into this vid and i can already tell why you dont want a laptop battery modded into the ally haha.
lol eh there’s too many draw backs and not enough bonuses. I don’t always need the battery power so this is the perfect sweet spot to keep it light when I need it and still fit in all my cases
@@cppctek seems like that would also get hot/add more unneeded heat to the ally also.
Ill have to check out that battery you showed off 👍🏻
How have you got your ally working without the back on?? I know it to do with the screws I think can you tell me 👍🏻
There’s a light sensor inside you have to cover up with a black film that comes with the clear backplate kit from Jsaux :)
@@cppctek Nice! Thanks dude
Where did you get that heatsink. And would it fit in the stock rog backplate
Amazon and yes
Would you consider sd card reader heat shield mod? And did you ever had any sd card reader issues?
Never had issues but no a shield won’t work since it’s the chip that has the issue on the opposite side of the board not the reader itself
Why if i plug or unplug the charger, my current tab always open and closing automatically? Its like im pressing alt tab on keyboard, Is it my setting or my charger ? Or is it set to do that? Any advice pls
I’m not quite sure. You may want to record a video and share it in our discord
I wanted to buy the u green . But another youtuber showed that after a while it goes down to 50w. So i baught the blade 100w
I haven’t had any issues with mine and it stays consistent on the power. I just got back from a trip where I used it a ton on the Ally
What do you recommend i do about the white spot on my screen i only notice it whenever its dark in a game is there a way to fix it i know that its over a tight screw in the motherboard is there a easy way to loosen it
Those pixels are likely dead and won’t come back. If you over tightened a screw and pushed on the screen and it caused pixels to go white. Usually they’re cooked
@@cppctek that sucks
@@cppctek will it cause other ones to get destroyed
@Crayonsandwich indeed. Changing the screen also is a huge pain. I’m praying someone will
Make an oled for it one day
Is this the z1 or z1 extreme because am thinking of getting the z1 it only 399 at best buy
Get the z1 extreme. There’s many reasons they dropped the z1 non extreme in price so much. There’s no comparison at all. I think that the non extreme version isn’t worth the money but the z1e is. Also check out the Lenovo legion go. Bigger screen and higher resolution. There’s also the msi claw coming soon which will rival them all with better battery life and possibly more fps. Stay tuned I’ll have one to share
@cppctek 700 is alot for the z1 extreme so I wait way to much in my mind
@cs-ge5kx the non z1 e is half the performance and it struggled to hit respectable numbers. Steam deck would be better than the non z1e
Look for an open box deal at Best Buy
@@cs-ge5kxat least in Europe you find A LOT of them second hand as new with a few weeks of couple of months, as many just want a PS5/XBOX/gaming PC with much more power
I still have my hall effect stick on the left side that’s been great for me and i’m super picky. I just adjusted the dead zone to be about 79% and it’s about what the stock stick was just less chance of drift. Not sure why you couldn’t get yours to work.
It works but I can say when you change the dead zone that much it actually makes the joystick not make any input until you go past that dead zone and for the games I play that’s no good at all. When you play competitive fps shooters especially you need that super precise accuracy on zero. I’m glad it works for you but for competitive gamers and players who need extremely precise movements off zero it’s crucial. I can tell instantly when I have to change the dead zone settings and it’s not what I want nor many people want. The whole reason I got them was for increased accuracy and spring tension. It’s not worth the drawback of having less accuracy it defeats the entire reason to purchase them quite frankly for me other than a few % less likelyhood for stick drift which at the expense of doing what you have to do would bypass stick drift anyways because it doesn’t recognize input until it goes past that part anyways.
also you can triple battery life by getting two power banks
Or just get a 50k mah one
I can make it endless or until my Ally goes tits up...
Just keep it plugged into my Truck.
Everyone I see talk about these joysticks only talk and never show ACTUAL gameplay.
The game play is 1000000% going to feel the same and not do anything different other than the left stick being wonky af for precision shooters so it’s def not worth talking about imo and anyone who says they’re good just fiddles around sucking at games and doesn’t notice the difference
Mine had no interference with 10% deadzone
@euphoria1430 if you have to add 10% dead zone that’s really rough lol 😂 when your sniping an actually not cheating with scripts on call of duty or playing extremely precise games where movement is key with every micrometer you will notice a better game play experience without any dead zone offset at all. Also guess what. Go to the online controller website shown on my video. Hold the left joystick in any direction and pull the trigger and watch the joystick move lmfao. It’s 100000000000000000000% unavoidable with the Hall effect sticks on the ally due to its placement in proximity to the trigger sensor. No amount of shielding helps. Ask okestgamer and any other reputable person who tested them without bias and they’ll straight up tell you they’re junk
@@cppctek Im currently not playing call of duty. I tested in helldivers 2 and horizon zero dawn and honestly didn’t feel a difference after doing some adjustments in armory crate.
The fan mod is useless actually
Battery modis the most usefull
It’s not useless.
What? Turn off the RGB?
BLASPHEMY!!
Yee lol but I love the taste of the rainbow 🌈 too
What is he even talking about? lol
Care to elaborate ?
@@cppctek Like, this video is pointless unless you're like 10.