For PLA , Weld-On #16 "IPS corporation" is the best value. The pla will break before the chemically melter bond breaks. 5 OZ tube is anywhere from $10 bucks to $20 bucks depending on where you buy it.
most comments here arent really accurate imo tetrahydrofuran (thf, dunno why ai listed it twice) is what actually dissolves most plastics. PVC Glues come in many varieties over many countries. most commonly tho: PVC cleaner: acetone (di methyl ketone) PVC "glue": MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) PVC glue (cement): PVC dissolved in MEK/Acetone + THF (tetrahydrofuran, cyclic ether)/cyclohexanone(cyclohexyl ketone) now, this is dissolving strength sorted aswell, PLA however does not follow the same rules. getting PLA to actually dissolve is hard. MEK can swell it, so can acetone, THF and cyclohexanone are able to dissolve it (not fully but good enough) so youre really looking for something that contains any of that, depending on your use. anything cement like, or viscous range above water, will contain dissolved PVC, so whatever dissolved that PVC, can also partially dissolve that PLA, thus glue them together. same for vinyls, like neoprene. can get glues and cement for that, theyll work. so any cements, PVC, Vinyl, similar will work ABS cement may work partially, MEK based ABS cement will swell and soften the PLA, i expect it to work less than PVC/vinyl cement as they are even more dissimilar. TLDR; cyclohexanone or THF, anything else added is "filler" or stuff to make more liquid per dried plastic/lenghen time to dry/reduce cost to manufacture THF -> dissolves really good MEK -> dissolves okay Acetone -> dissolves ehh
I just tried clear PVC Primer last week. Outstanding on PETG and ASA. I used it also to smooth the prints w/o sanding. It did not hold the Inland Tough PLA but I used 3-4 coats and knocked down the texture left from the textured PEI plate. So its a decent way to go to smooth your prints. PETG took a while to dry but it was glossy. Not bad at all
@@MakerBuildIt its cheezy its a gag gift. A storage jar that looks is a folgers coffee can design with “Modestly Priced Recepticle” written on the back to replace a old stinky pickle jar. a reference to the Urn in the movie - The Big Lebowski.
I’m a new subscriber and I have been exploring your videos for what feels like days lol. Thank you for doing these tests. I’m new to 3d printing, 8 weeks in. Already halfway through a master chief build and I’ve been trying to figure out various things such as sanding, how to smooth layer lines, and so on. Mainly though, what glue to use. I ordered 3d gloop like a week ago but it still hasn’t shipped. It was more expensive but I’d seen it’s got the best bond with the least mess and low curing times. So I guess we’ll see
Welcome to the 3D printing world and thank you so much for watching and subscribing! The top preforming tested glues so far are JB Weld for Plastics, Super Glue and 3D Gloop. Still got some additional tests planned. 😀 Some people also use 3D Gloop for some smoothing. I haven't done that yet. Bondo also works. 😀 What are you planning on building?
@@MakerBuildIt That’s what I’d seen on your previous videos!! So I’m excited I ordered the Gloop, but man they are slow 😒. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your tests!! As for the smoothing, I’ve only seen one video of someone trying it and it turned out terrible. That video was like 4 years old though, and they mentioned an aerosol version, which their website still claims to be on the way lol. I’m thinking I’m going to either try the plastic filler with acetone or give UV resin with baby powder a try once I actually get to my first post processing. So far I have from the waist up to the helmet done for Master Chief Armor cosplay but I haven’t done any sanding or anything as I haven’t yet figured out how I want to start trying to do the post processing. I have a mandalorian helmet waiting for post processing and I have a Bo Katan helmet going that is the start of my daughter’s Halloween costume!! I’ve printed a lot of toys and things first the house so far as well to get a better understanding of the settings and how to actually use my printer lol.
Depending on how much adhesive you're using and how often, the adhesive's shelf-life is another key factor to consider. Getting a "good deal" is nice, but if it goes bad after a month and you've only used half (or none at all) then it's not so nice. Thanks for the video!
Not sure if this matters but you do have to twist the two once there together. As far as the glues they can change the chemical makeup and over long term make a weaker joint. I would think but I’m not a chemist
Gloop for ABS and Micromark's "Same Stuff" plastic solvent glue have the same main ingredient according to the SDS. Micromark is about 1/3rd the price. This ingredient is very toxic though and should only be used outdoors with a fan, or a chemical fume hood. It was much more common in things like paint strippers but many brands of everything have stopped using it because so many people were making themselves very ill off it.
Ok hear me out, what if you added measured amounts of acetone if different ratio to PVC glue. The gloop lists acetone as an ingredient.vim no chemist but what if acetone helps bond better. Acetone is used to smooth prints???!!!!
Acetone is used to smooth ABS. I use Acetone vapor smoothing on my ABS prints often. By itself it doesn't do much to PLA. It evaporates too quickly before it affects PLA.
Interesting test but a significant problem with your method. All you're really testing here is if the adhesive is stronger than the layer lines. Ideally you would have oriented the print so that the glued side went across the layer lines instead of being parallel with them.
For PLA , Weld-On #16 "IPS corporation" is the best value. The pla will break before the chemically melter bond breaks. 5 OZ tube is anywhere from $10 bucks to $20 bucks depending on where you buy it.
most comments here arent really accurate imo
tetrahydrofuran (thf, dunno why ai listed it twice) is what actually dissolves most plastics.
PVC Glues come in many varieties over many countries.
most commonly tho:
PVC cleaner: acetone (di methyl ketone)
PVC "glue": MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)
PVC glue (cement): PVC dissolved in MEK/Acetone + THF (tetrahydrofuran, cyclic ether)/cyclohexanone(cyclohexyl ketone)
now, this is dissolving strength sorted aswell, PLA however does not follow the same rules.
getting PLA to actually dissolve is hard. MEK can swell it, so can acetone, THF and cyclohexanone are able to dissolve it (not fully but good enough)
so youre really looking for something that contains any of that, depending on your use.
anything cement like, or viscous range above water, will contain dissolved PVC, so whatever dissolved that PVC, can also partially dissolve that PLA, thus glue them together.
same for vinyls, like neoprene. can get glues and cement for that, theyll work.
so any cements, PVC, Vinyl, similar will work
ABS cement may work partially, MEK based ABS cement will swell and soften the PLA, i expect it to work less than PVC/vinyl cement as they are even more dissimilar.
TLDR;
cyclohexanone or THF, anything else added is "filler" or stuff to make more liquid per dried plastic/lenghen time to dry/reduce cost to manufacture
THF -> dissolves really good
MEK -> dissolves okay
Acetone -> dissolves ehh
I use a PVC cement to bond PLA, but the main ingredient is Methyl Ethyl Ketone (MEK). My trials the print broke before the bond every time.
I just tried clear PVC Primer last week. Outstanding on PETG and ASA. I used it also to smooth the prints w/o sanding. It did not hold the Inland Tough PLA but I used 3-4 coats and knocked down the texture left from the textured PEI plate. So its a decent way to go to smooth your prints.
PETG took a while to dry but it was glossy. Not bad at all
Awesome! What did you print?
@@MakerBuildIt its cheezy its a gag gift. A storage jar that looks is a folgers coffee can design with “Modestly Priced Recepticle” written on the back to replace a old stinky pickle jar. a reference to the Urn in the movie - The Big Lebowski.
@@debrasam5525That’s awesome! 🕶️ 😀
I’m a new subscriber and I have been exploring your videos for what feels like days lol. Thank you for doing these tests. I’m new to 3d printing, 8 weeks in. Already halfway through a master chief build and I’ve been trying to figure out various things such as sanding, how to smooth layer lines, and so on. Mainly though, what glue to use. I ordered 3d gloop like a week ago but it still hasn’t shipped. It was more expensive but I’d seen it’s got the best bond with the least mess and low curing times. So I guess we’ll see
Welcome to the 3D printing world and thank you so much for watching and subscribing! The top preforming tested glues so far are JB Weld for Plastics, Super Glue and 3D Gloop. Still got some additional tests planned. 😀 Some people also use 3D Gloop for some smoothing. I haven't done that yet. Bondo also works. 😀 What are you planning on building?
@@MakerBuildIt That’s what I’d seen on your previous videos!! So I’m excited I ordered the Gloop, but man they are slow 😒. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your tests!! As for the smoothing, I’ve only seen one video of someone trying it and it turned out terrible. That video was like 4 years old though, and they mentioned an aerosol version, which their website still claims to be on the way lol.
I’m thinking I’m going to either try the plastic filler with acetone or give UV resin with baby powder a try once I actually get to my first post processing. So far I have from the waist up to the helmet done for Master Chief Armor cosplay but I haven’t done any sanding or anything as I haven’t yet figured out how I want to start trying to do the post processing. I have a mandalorian helmet waiting for post processing and I have a Bo Katan helmet going that is the start of my daughter’s Halloween costume!! I’ve printed a lot of toys and things first the house so far as well to get a better understanding of the settings and how to actually use my printer lol.
All the gloops have different solvents depending on the material to bond.
I really need more of this. Gloop is simply too expensive!
Thank you! We did another video comparing other glue options. 😀 th-cam.com/video/FxPpKVmKZWk/w-d-xo.html
The ingredient MEK in the 3d Gloop is the solvent used to soften PLA to the point where it chemically welds together
Love this! Posting before watching!
Great video! Worlds have liked to have seen CA glue put up in the head to head though. It often bonds so hard the pla breaks first
😀 Thank you!
I did a video on testing multiple types of glues. 😀 CA and 3D Gloop were compared in it! Here's the link: th-cam.com/video/FxPpKVmKZWk/w-d-xo.html
Depending on how much adhesive you're using and how often, the adhesive's shelf-life is another key factor to consider.
Getting a "good deal" is nice, but if it goes bad after a month and you've only used half (or none at all) then it's not so nice.
Thanks for the video!
WELD-ON 4 ACRYLIC SOLVENT CEMENT works great on PLA !
A month before this video, I did some test with PVC glue and posted it. I wonder if I was the original comment or not it was on somebody else’s video.
Not sure if this matters but you do have to twist the two once there together. As far as the glues they can change the chemical makeup and over long term make a weaker joint. I would think but I’m not a chemist
Gloop for ABS and Micromark's "Same Stuff" plastic solvent glue have the same main ingredient according to the SDS. Micromark is about 1/3rd the price. This ingredient is very toxic though and should only be used outdoors with a fan, or a chemical fume hood. It was much more common in things like paint strippers but many brands of everything have stopped using it because so many people were making themselves very ill off it.
ya know, those channel locks have a direction to them...
How about the same test with PETG?
We're going to test it on PETG!
What is that app you were using
I was asking ChatGPT 🤖questions, but made the handles we tested were made in Blender. 😀
@@MakerBuildIt You know how cool it is to have something like a Jarvis. That's awesome
Ok hear me out, what if you added measured amounts of acetone if different ratio to PVC glue. The gloop lists acetone as an ingredient.vim no chemist but what if acetone helps bond better. Acetone is used to smooth prints???!!!!
🤔I like this….. 😃
Acetone is used to smooth ABS. I use Acetone vapor smoothing on my ABS prints often. By itself it doesn't do much to PLA. It evaporates too quickly before it affects PLA.
Interesting test but a significant problem with your method. All you're really testing here is if the adhesive is stronger than the layer lines. Ideally you would have oriented the print so that the glued side went across the layer lines instead of being parallel with them.
Those are not Vise-Grips and your using them wrong 😂. Good test and info though.
Stinky stuff, try fixing a pipe in a hot crawl space. Axe me how I know...
It is! 🤣
6:03 fart? lol