Want to get your 3D prints to the next level? Check out our Heat Set Inserts and Tools at cnckitchen.store (Free shipping worldwide starting at €100). *QUESTION:* What would you use hot melt glue filament for?
why dont you find lower melting point TPU for the sticky side , and then use TPC on the top which melts in slightly highertenps , alterntively there are shoe glues that are flexible after cure, but they smell strong that you can paint on the other side. or maybe press the hot glue into a thin sheets , then cut to size with a plotter maybe ?
@@The_1ntern3t hahaha yeah youre so right 🤣lol... luckely havent had this situation very often because i dont yet have a resin printer😥 dont have a space for the toxic stuff yet but i miss every day i cant create cool detailed stuff like figures, tempplates... Id propably explain it with very thin drawings you stack ontop of eachother ?
The only thing I'd change about this process is ironing the patches from the fabric side, so more of the heat goes to fabric then hot melt glue THEN tpu, rather than hitting the TPU first. In my experience (with normal patches!) this helps them adhere better because the fabric is heated up to match the glue.
Oh hey thanks I actually didn't know that about iron on patches. My jeans always rip at the crotch so I'm always using iron on patches (tacky I know but I love these jeans). The corners of the patches always peel. Didn't think about heating the fabric up as well.
I do service work at a factory that makes glue sticks, they use a horizontal screw extruder with a 1" nozzle where it gets melted then it gets pulled through a 50ft water bed by a puller belt on the other end. They are indeed coated in oil to prevent them from sticking to the puller belt when they are chopped down into individual sticks.
Hi Stephen, maybe you might have better luck with higher temp rated hot melt glues. The glues I use at work have a more yellow hue to them versus the crystal clear ones you're using. They melt at a higher temperature but solidify significantly faster. They might be harder as well. We even buy it pelletized as well as in large diameter sticks. You should have no problem finding pelletized hot melt if you ask around industrial suppliers, it's very commonly used.
for this application i think you need the different melting point for the bottom layer (~150) and top layer ~(200) - otherwise you would melt the patch and get rid of detail
@@gedr7664 he could iron from the INSIDE of the shirt , so the thing that melts first would be the glue . It will be significantly harder to place the stamp perfect but it would fix the problem .
My mom has some white glue sticks and she says those high temp ones will burn the absolute hell out of you if it gets on you. Should work really well on fabric though.
Was going to suggest this. Glue sticks have varying cure times and chemical compositions. For fabrics it would also help a lot to have something that didn't soften in the sun 😅
Always happy to see you thinking outside the box. As a practical note though, hot glue is available in a sheet form that maybe you could print on top of then trim off after printing.
So a few months ago Lost in Tech showcased a filament made from PCL (polycaprolone) which melts at low temperature and might very well bind other polymers to textile. PCL pellets are also very easily and readily available in small and medium quantities e.g. as a crafting material, mould making material, temporary tooth filling.
@@jonasniesner At those temps have to keep it away from any clothes dryer tho. "PCL filament is a type of 3D printing filament made from a biodegradable and bio-based polymer called polycaprolactone (PCL). PCL is a good choice for beginners and kids because of its low-temp and safety. It is also eco-friendly, food-safe, and non-toxic. PCL has a density of around 1.2 g/cm3 and has exceptional mechanical properties. It melts around 60°C making it a safe thermoplastic to print and has a glass transition temperature of -60°C making the product extremely flexible and tough."
Maybe the answer is to make a new extruder that can accept the glue sticks directly :) Also maybe a smaller nozzle size could make part cooling easier?
I was also thinking about the extruder change. The Cocoa Press uses sticks of chocolate instead of filament rolls. The cocoa sticks are thicker than hot glue sticks but im sure you could easily use a similar design.
Patch makers iron-on a double sided adhesive. Madeira has three different Heat Seal products using different materials: polyamide, polyester, and polyurethane.
Maybe it would be easier and more consistent to design a hot end that can directly take full hot glue sticks, which would eliminate most of the problems you had. Taking the heating element of a hot glue gun and modifying it a bit might just do the trick.
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TPU can be ironed onto cloth directly and there is no need for any adhesive. Place the tpu patch down first onto a wax paper, place the cloth over that and a final layer of wax paper then iron on the patch heating through the cloth. The only thing that really takes any practice is melting it with even pressure and not keeping the heat on for to long smearing the tpu out. The results can be great and hold up to many washes before a corner starts to peel off but its no big deal you just iron it again.
I see Temu has hot melt thin sheet material dirt cheap specifically for fabrics, wonder which would hold better, those, or your direct TPU... may have to try and compare!
Dry ice is used by welders often, so even in a small city or town you should have a welding supply seller nearby who will be able to provide it to you.
An interesting proof of concept, and for someone willing to put in the time probably quite practical and useful. One thing comes to mind, reversing the process, printing PLA onto baking paper stuck down on the build plate (would it stick - don't know), then printing the glue on top of that. The print could easily be lifted with the paper and is already ready for ironing onto the fabric.
When I explain 3D printing to non-techies in my life, I use the "robotic hot glue gun" analogy, too. It's fun to watch the idea dawn on people, like watching an "a-ha moment from the outside." Very cool video, Stefan, nice new application for an old Ender. Lets hope the engineers at Prusa see this and come up with a way to do this more reliably (a new toolhead?) or that a Chinese filament manufacturer sees the product benefits of a printable glue layer that's more "noob" friendly.
An experiment that you learn from is never a waste of time. Really neat to see you using an OmniDrop extruder, They are great will work with any material. Max did a great job designing them.
There is a sort of glue filament which is callled Pva. Some printers can use it and it is most common with double nozzle printers. I think it is really helpful because it is a support material that can dissolve in warm water.
I enjoy watching your process so much my friend. Your curiosity and no nonsense approach to problem solving is just incredible. Freezing the gluesticks, modeling temps after the glue gun, adding the oiler, there were so many brilliant little nuggets in this video and I just loved being along for the journey. 👏
The idea is great, but to fix problems with making filament: why not make a custom extruder that can work with 10mm hot sticks so that you will eliminate half of the problems.
One thing that comes across my mind as an issue would be the amount of material you're pushing into extruder with one stepper motor step. Wider cross-section of the raw material makes fine control over filament feed more difficult, as the nozzle diameter still remains ~.4mm
I guess the solution in that case would be adding a gearbox to fix the ratio between stepper motor and feeder gear, but then you'd have slower retraction speed, etc., etc. So while fixing the root issue, attempting to create a custom extruder would definitely bring some new problems into play :)
I personally have a large format vinyl sign printer and a plotter (think drag knife cnc) and I think using existing printable iron-on materials and then cutting them on a plotter is a much better outcome. Vinyl plotters are very similar to cnc routers and 3d printers, but have a fixed x axis (material width) and infinite y axis in material length. Z axis is pretty much just cutting pressure.
You could build a large extruder to feed the sticks directly into a long conical nozzle to get to normal filament size. Should be easier than chopping everything up :-)
The problem with that is that then we have to melt down the whole stick to temperature and then cool it down very fast so it can spool, the thermal mass is just too high right? Maybe that could be solved by using some sort of chiller just bellow the nozzle? Like placing a tiny radiator connected to a AC unit in front of a high speed delta fan
@@someguy9175the diameter is still 0,4mm so fast cooling isn’t a problem. You just need to extrude the stick very slowly to get the same volumetric output as using normal filament :)
If you manipulate the printing path I bet you could mimic the look and feel of an embroidered patch. That would make this incredibly useful as a potentially cost effective alternative to custom sewn patches.
Add cheap, commercially-available cellulose powder to the hot glue, for toughness. (Perhaps mix it into the shredded glue dry so it covers the surface as a powder before it melts). Also, adding water to the hot gluesticks can cause the liquid flow to pull the glue sticks into the blades. Also...water and a tiny amount of xanthan gum can do the same, but then you have to rinse off the gum. Since some proteins are heat sensitive (lignin!) it might be possible to "print wood" with a non-binding or weakly-binding "extender base" like hot glue, or even water, xanthan gum+water, or some other "similar temperature" filament. "melting" lignin is how wood-benders bend thin wood. Might need much higher temperatures than normal. ...but if you had isolated lignin, you could remix it with "continuous cellulose fiber" as per DESY(Germany). Also...try extruding cellulose into long fibers using your machines and a much finer extrusion head. DESY made something tougher than spider silk this way. You want the strands as fine as possible, then, ideally, braid them into something like kevlar. Rotated grain-direction (like plywood) cellulose and/or spider silk can likely be "the holy grail" for strength. (I.e. printed firearms, daggers, one-use drone guns, propeller blades, bulletproof armor, and...with aerogel dust...insulating armor)
I'd buy ^&% tons of EVA filament if it were commercially available. Making their own iron-on patches would be the hottest project ever for my middle-schoolers' 3D printing class.
Maybe you could try Avery 3279 ink jet fabric transfers. You create your pattern in your favorite drawing program, print it onto the 3279 paper, use an iron to apply it to a tee shirt or whatever.
Temu has thin sheets of hot melt glue dirt cheap specifically for fabrics if your logo/etc. would be regularly shaped and without voids to cut them out for hot pressing.
Fascinating. The other approach you might want to try.... if you take hot glue sticks and put it between sheets of baking paper, you can iron them flat. You end up with this really flexible sheet of glue. I kind of wonder if it might work with a vinyl cutter. Or you could just put it on your print bed and print on top of it and cut away the un-needed bits later. The left over bits of your hot glue sheet can be remelted into a sheet again.
I need this it compliments my TPU addiction perfectly! I feel like the odd guy out but TPU is by far my favorite thing to print with and design for, yes it has it's challenges but it has so many amazing use cases.
To make your filament, how about try adding a length of copper tubing at required inside diameter, then you can slowly bring the temperature down before it exits the tube. Or, visit a hot glue stick factory and see how they make such a perfect sticks. Great videos, thanks for your hard work and sharing your trials and errors
You should modify a cheapo mini fridge as a cooling stage for the hot glue filament to bring it to a solid state quickly. You shouldn't even have to alter the refrigerant lines as they don't pass through most parts of the fridge. Drill two holes in the fridge for inlet and outlet, put your feed sensor in the fridge and any filament guides it would need and add a cooling fan inside the fridge for the filament.
Mostly "waste of time" :) but experiments like those are important for technological progress. Im surprised you made it to semi-working state tho but we will talk about "surviving washing mashine" after several 10ths of cycles :D
It might help with feed and heat soak if you cool the glue filament strand down before it enters the drive gear. Something as simple as a PTFE tube inside a bowl/bottle of ice water could help lower the temperature enough to reduce its adhesiveness. Also, preheating the cotton shirt with the iron prior to putting the sticker/logo on would probably help with the amount of back heating needed for adhesion and could minimize the TPU melting issue.
What if you use a water bath before you try to spoil the glue? Have the filament come out of the machine into a water bath and then loop up into the part of the machine that wraps it around the spool.
A cold working tip: freeze the blender pitcher also for extending the time you can cut it and remove easily. It reminded me of my whip cream making days, it goes much better when you freeze the bowl and the whisk or mix blades. You could probably mix 15% parrafin in or a number of other things, the sticks could just be a binder in your spool maker.
Could Polycaprolactone Filament (like Facilan) work for ironing Patches onto T-shirts? Haven't tested it yet how it sticks to PLA.
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Es gibt sogenannte Flexfolie zum Aufbügeln auf Stoff die in Schneidplottern verwendet wird. Die gibt es auch in transparent. Die Folie ist auf der Unterseite mit Schmelzkleber beschichtet. Abgesehen davon, dass man ja versuchen könnte diese Folie auf der Oberseite zu bedrucken (keine Ahnung ob das Material darauf halten könnte) erzeugt man man für den Plotter im Allgemeinen mehrere Lagen Folie für unterschiedliche Farben und bügelt diese dann übereinander. (Meist mit einer Bügelpresse) Um in Deinem Fall den Druck zu schonen empfiehlt es sich das Ganze Logo lediglich kurz von der Vorderseite zu fixieren und dann den Stoff zu wenden um durch den Stoff durch gezielt die Kleberschicht von hinten zu erhitzen.
to improve the quality, you can submerge the 3d printer into a non conductive water like pure water without minerals, this will cool down the filament instantly and the print will look better
I love how your troubleshooting kind of came full circle back to using filament oilers. It's funny how these issues probably were the same things that the 3d printing pioneers faced.
I had this exact question years ago, too bad at the time everyone just said "Why don't you just use PLA?" In my head I was just thinking it could be be a way to make a more kid friendly 3D printer, but instead of filament spools, you could design some sort of tube that would hold actual glue sticks. Then gravity or maybe even a very slow turning gear to push it down.
I think that a thin sheet of hot glue would work better than a filament for the iron on patches. The sheet could be attached to the bed by heating and the tpu patch would be printed on top of the hot glue sheet
Thermal mounting tissue is thin paper impregnated with hot melt adhesive. It easily cuts with a scissors and bonds yo most surfaces. It is commonly used to mount photographs to foam board. It would probably work for this application.
@@3DWolfEngineering I know most 3D pens aren't the best, but I have a Mynt3D Pro pen and it works really well and I haven't had any problems with it and I've had it for a few years now
hot glue is fully able to be combined with ldpe to create a higher temp, less sticky (almost waxy) plastic, would love to see if that made a difference here.
For adding it to the shirt, I would use masking tape to hold it in place, turn the shirt inside out then iron the fabric to the glue rather than passing thr heat through the TPU to the glue to the fabric.
I wonder if some sort or core or additive to the blend could help get you more desirable properties. Oil/wax coating is nice, but perhaps something to help dry it faster instead? I doubt cornstarch in the blend would help, but it's a start.
I don't know if you're aware of this but the first working prototype of a 3D printer was indeed a hot glue gun on a blueprint plotter that was given a third axis.
I thought I made up the idea of a filament oiler for use with scenting filaments.- but sounds like its a real thing. I love youtube for uniting inventors across the web. keep on building!
Don’t iron on the patch. Turn the whole thing over, put the patch down, glue side up. Put the t-shirt on top and iron that. Better to transfer the heat through the shirt than through the printed patch.
you could make hot glue joiner parts that you slot into a spot heat it up with a hot air gun or it could be used at impact resistant material or even for flexible containers or cases.
tip from my grand ma. turn the shirt inside out, put the patch on the inside of the shirt, glue side up, put the ironing paper over the shrit and then iron. this is how she did all my scout patches for my uniforms.
You can shred the glustick with ice water. Water will help to disperse the pieces better, and the ice will help to mill the polymers. Since you always need to dry the shreds first the left over water will be get rid of.
Nice tip from Adam Savage - if you touch melted hot glue with your finger put that finger in your mouth (or just lick it). It will solidify instantly and won't burn your skin. Strange or funny as it sounds it actually works :)
I think it would be better to iron them on from the material/textile side, so that the doesn't have to go through the patches, but through the textile.
Want to get your 3D prints to the next level? Check out our Heat Set Inserts and Tools at cnckitchen.store (Free shipping worldwide starting at €100).
*QUESTION:* What would you use hot melt glue filament for?
why dont you find lower melting point TPU for the sticky side , and then use TPC on the top which melts in slightly highertenps , alterntively there are shoe glues that are flexible after cure, but they smell strong that you can paint on the other side. or maybe press the hot glue into a thin sheets , then cut to size with a plotter maybe ?
Is it possible to mix pla and gluestick you just need to figure out the mixture percentage
I actually don't have a hot glue gun.
@@kira07😊😊😊😊
You can use pla flax instead of glow, it could work very similar and much more easier to print
Finally, a 3d printer that is just a hot glue gun. We've ascended.
😅yeah just wanted to say that because literally everytime when someone doesnt know 3d printers the only way they understand usually is the hot gun xD
We’ve ascended so much that we’ve gone back to square one
@@3DWolfEngineering The real trouble is explaining resin printers 😂 "So yeah. It's upside down and there's this UV sensitive liquid and then..." 😅
@@The_1ntern3t hahaha yeah youre so right 🤣lol... luckely havent had this situation very often because i dont yet have a resin printer😥 dont have a space for the toxic stuff yet but i miss every day i cant create cool detailed stuff like figures, tempplates...
Id propably explain it with very thin drawings you stack ontop of eachother ?
Everything old becomes new eventually.
The only thing I'd change about this process is ironing the patches from the fabric side, so more of the heat goes to fabric then hot melt glue THEN tpu, rather than hitting the TPU first. In my experience (with normal patches!) this helps them adhere better because the fabric is heated up to match the glue.
This!
This!!!!
I scrolled to the comments to point that out too XD
Oh hey thanks I actually didn't know that about iron on patches. My jeans always rip at the crotch so I'm always using iron on patches (tacky I know but I love these jeans). The corners of the patches always peel. Didn't think about heating the fabric up as well.
Hope he sees this
"I didn't only make it for the giggles." Sounds like giggle addict talk to me.
😂 the video was fun. Just brush some hot glue at the backside of the patch to achieve the same result. 😊
@@chipcode5538I feel one is cleaned than the brush on option.
During the intervention. "Your so obsessed with your giggle that you neglected ME. WE used to giggle TOGETHER. 🥺😭"
I do service work at a factory that makes glue sticks, they use a horizontal screw extruder with a 1" nozzle where it gets melted then it gets pulled through a 50ft water bed by a puller belt on the other end. They are indeed coated in oil to prevent them from sticking to the puller belt when they are chopped down into individual sticks.
Water bath? Interesting
underwater printing when?
@@casychapin4647 Normal filament is also extruded into a water bath
Hi Stephen, maybe you might have better luck with higher temp rated hot melt glues. The glues I use at work have a more yellow hue to them versus the crystal clear ones you're using. They melt at a higher temperature but solidify significantly faster. They might be harder as well.
We even buy it pelletized as well as in large diameter sticks. You should have no problem finding pelletized hot melt if you ask around industrial suppliers, it's very commonly used.
for this application i think you need the different melting point for the bottom layer (~150) and top layer ~(200) - otherwise you would melt the patch and get rid of detail
@@gedr7664 he could iron from the INSIDE of the shirt , so the thing that melts first would be the glue . It will be significantly harder to place the stamp perfect but it would fix the problem .
@@gedr7664 maybe if ironed from the inside it would work
My mom has some white glue sticks and she says those high temp ones will burn the absolute hell out of you if it gets on you. Should work really well on fabric though.
Was going to suggest this. Glue sticks have varying cure times and chemical compositions. For fabrics it would also help a lot to have something that didn't soften in the sun 😅
But can you print gluesticks with it?
@EightOneGulf You just gave me a shower thought.
With less infill for more glue sticks per glue stick 😂
Hahaha
Is it food safe?!
@@jurgmanx4644 I don't think you picked up the joke haha
This is amazing! I had no idea filaments used to be oiled, totally makes sense though - great work!
@BPSspace @CNCKitchen collab I never expected.
this is big
Always happy to see you thinking outside the box. As a practical note though, hot glue is available in a sheet form that maybe you could print on top of then trim off after printing.
Yeah, I was thinking why not just use the iron sheets for printing on. Work great for ironing on fabrics.
So a few months ago Lost in Tech showcased a filament made from PCL (polycaprolone) which melts at low temperature and might very well bind other polymers to textile. PCL pellets are also very easily and readily available in small and medium quantities e.g. as a crafting material, mould making material, temporary tooth filling.
No need to make filament, PCL is already available for medical applications. Price is a bit higher but still acceptable.
Great idea! I think I even have some around here.
PCL pellets work really well to adhere pvc pipes together at odd angles that you can't get connectors for.
@@jonasniesner You can buy PCL filament.
@@CNCKitchen ich könnte dir EVA Granulat zusenden wahlweise in Weiß oder transparent/beige.
Playing with hot glue was not a waste of time, as you (and we) learned a lot in the process!
Thank you for sharing your experience!
Appreciate it!
PCL in past was used as a hot melt glue and filament out of that is readily available.
Interesting, I have some still lying around. And the XL should be able to handle that and I already have a profile for it. So worth a try.
@@jonasniesner At those temps have to keep it away from any clothes dryer tho.
"PCL filament is a type of 3D printing filament made from a biodegradable and bio-based polymer called polycaprolactone (PCL). PCL is a good choice for beginners and kids because of its low-temp and safety. It is also eco-friendly, food-safe, and non-toxic. PCL has a density of around 1.2 g/cm3 and has exceptional mechanical properties. It melts around 60°C making it a safe thermoplastic to print and has a glass transition temperature of -60°C making the product extremely flexible and tough."
It pains me that u didn't use a cheese grinder
Maybe the answer is to make a new extruder that can accept the glue sticks directly :)
Also maybe a smaller nozzle size could make part cooling easier?
I was also thinking about the extruder change. The Cocoa Press uses sticks of chocolate instead of filament rolls. The cocoa sticks are thicker than hot glue sticks but im sure you could easily use a similar design.
Patch makers iron-on a double sided adhesive. Madeira has three different Heat Seal products using different materials: polyamide, polyester, and polyurethane.
This...the whole time I was thinking of Badge Magic like Scouts use. It's basically the same thing without all the work.
Temu has such dirt cheap.
Maybe it would be easier and more consistent to design a hot end that can directly take full hot glue sticks, which would eliminate most of the problems you had.
Taking the heating element of a hot glue gun and modifying it a bit might just do the trick.
TPU can be ironed onto cloth directly and there is no need for any adhesive. Place the tpu patch down first onto a wax paper, place the cloth over that and a final layer of wax paper then iron on the patch heating through the cloth. The only thing that really takes any practice is melting it with even pressure and not keeping the heat on for to long smearing the tpu out. The results can be great and hold up to many washes before a corner starts to peel off but its no big deal you just iron it again.
I see Temu has hot melt thin sheet material dirt cheap specifically for fabrics, wonder which would hold better, those, or your direct TPU... may have to try and compare!
I second this. I have had great success ironing TPU on cotton.
how many layers and at what layer height would you recommend?
For that matter, you can print TPU straight to fabric, too.
You could see the panic in the hand movements when you touched the glue lol
👋🤚🖐✊👎🙌👊👏👊🖖🖐👏👊👏
Dry ice is used by welders often, so even in a small city or town you should have a welding supply seller nearby who will be able to provide it to you.
plumbing too
Co2 fire extinguishers, where ever locally they are refilled as well.
An interesting proof of concept, and for someone willing to put in the time probably quite practical and useful. One thing comes to mind, reversing the process, printing PLA onto baking paper stuck down on the build plate (would it stick - don't know), then printing the glue on top of that. The print could easily be lifted with the paper and is already ready for ironing onto the fabric.
When I explain 3D printing to non-techies in my life, I use the "robotic hot glue gun" analogy, too. It's fun to watch the idea dawn on people, like watching an "a-ha moment from the outside." Very cool video, Stefan, nice new application for an old Ender. Lets hope the engineers at Prusa see this and come up with a way to do this more reliably (a new toolhead?) or that a Chinese filament manufacturer sees the product benefits of a printable glue layer that's more "noob" friendly.
An experiment that you learn from is never a waste of time. Really neat to see you using an OmniDrop extruder, They are great will work with any material. Max did a great job designing them.
There is a sort of glue filament which is callled Pva. Some printers can use it and it is most common with double nozzle printers. I think it is really helpful because it is a support material that can dissolve in warm water.
Experimenting and learning is never a waste of time!
I enjoy watching your process so much my friend. Your curiosity and no nonsense approach to problem solving is just incredible. Freezing the gluesticks, modeling temps after the glue gun, adding the oiler, there were so many brilliant little nuggets in this video and I just loved being along for the journey. 👏
The idea is great, but to fix problems with making filament: why not make a custom extruder that can work with 10mm hot sticks so that you will eliminate half of the problems.
Yeah for that was my first idea
One thing that comes across my mind as an issue would be the amount of material you're pushing into extruder with one stepper motor step. Wider cross-section of the raw material makes fine control over filament feed more difficult, as the nozzle diameter still remains ~.4mm
I guess the solution in that case would be adding a gearbox to fix the ratio between stepper motor and feeder gear, but then you'd have slower retraction speed, etc., etc.
So while fixing the root issue, attempting to create a custom extruder would definitely bring some new problems into play :)
I personally have a large format vinyl sign printer and a plotter (think drag knife cnc) and I think using existing printable iron-on materials and then cutting them on a plotter is a much better outcome. Vinyl plotters are very similar to cnc routers and 3d printers, but have a fixed x axis (material width) and infinite y axis in material length. Z axis is pretty much just cutting pressure.
You could build a large extruder to feed the sticks directly into a long conical nozzle to get to normal filament size. Should be easier than chopping everything up :-)
The problem with that is that then we have to melt down the whole stick to temperature and then cool it down very fast so it can spool, the thermal mass is just too high right?
Maybe that could be solved by using some sort of chiller just bellow the nozzle? Like placing a tiny radiator connected to a AC unit in front of a high speed delta fan
@@someguy9175the diameter is still 0,4mm so fast cooling isn’t a problem.
You just need to extrude the stick very slowly to get the same volumetric output as using normal filament :)
07:30 run it thru cold water before puling it/spooling it, that will harden it very well
If you manipulate the printing path I bet you could mimic the look and feel of an embroidered patch. That would make this incredibly useful as a potentially cost effective alternative to custom sewn patches.
You can actually embroider TPU directly really well, I make and sew on TPU patches all the time. 👍
Add cheap, commercially-available cellulose powder to the hot glue, for toughness. (Perhaps mix it into the shredded glue dry so it covers the surface as a powder before it melts).
Also, adding water to the hot gluesticks can cause the liquid flow to pull the glue sticks into the blades. Also...water and a tiny amount of xanthan gum can do the same, but then you have to rinse off the gum.
Since some proteins are heat sensitive (lignin!) it might be possible to "print wood" with a non-binding or weakly-binding "extender base" like hot glue, or even water, xanthan gum+water, or some other "similar temperature" filament. "melting" lignin is how wood-benders bend thin wood. Might need much higher temperatures than normal. ...but if you had isolated lignin, you could remix it with "continuous cellulose fiber" as per DESY(Germany).
Also...try extruding cellulose into long fibers using your machines and a much finer extrusion head. DESY made something tougher than spider silk this way. You want the strands as fine as possible, then, ideally, braid them into something like kevlar.
Rotated grain-direction (like plywood) cellulose and/or spider silk can likely be "the holy grail" for strength. (I.e. printed firearms, daggers, one-use drone guns, propeller blades, bulletproof armor, and...with aerogel dust...insulating armor)
I'd buy ^&% tons of EVA filament if it were commercially available. Making their own iron-on patches would be the hottest project ever for my middle-schoolers' 3D printing class.
Maybe you could try Avery 3279 ink jet fabric transfers. You create your pattern in your favorite drawing program, print it onto the 3279 paper, use an iron to apply it to a tee shirt or whatever.
Temu has thin sheets of hot melt glue dirt cheap specifically for fabrics if your logo/etc. would be regularly shaped and without voids to cut them out for hot pressing.
@@Jessterrr😢
Bi I nikn o8888
Fascinating.
The other approach you might want to try.... if you take hot glue sticks and put it between sheets of baking paper, you can iron them flat. You end up with this really flexible sheet of glue. I kind of wonder if it might work with a vinyl cutter. Or you could just put it on your print bed and print on top of it and cut away the un-needed bits later. The left over bits of your hot glue sheet can be remelted into a sheet again.
15:24 Better put glue on my print surface so my glue will stick to my print surface.
I need this it compliments my TPU addiction perfectly! I feel like the odd guy out but TPU is by far my favorite thing to print with and design for, yes it has it's challenges but it has so many amazing use cases.
I almost exclusively print in TPU at home.
Dont give Joe any ideas, the cast hotglue rocket is cursed enough
To make your filament, how about try adding a length of copper tubing at required inside diameter, then you can slowly bring the temperature down before it exits the tube.
Or, visit a hot glue stick factory and see how they make such a perfect sticks. Great videos, thanks for your hard work and sharing your trials and errors
Hybrid EVA-PLA strength testing!!!!
Yes please! The adherence of the layers is super interesting
Both are having distinct melting points
I admire your absolute patience with this project.
you can buy hot melt glue pellets in a lot variations for processes like industrial book production
You should modify a cheapo mini fridge as a cooling stage for the hot glue filament to bring it to a solid state quickly. You shouldn't even have to alter the refrigerant lines as they don't pass through most parts of the fridge. Drill two holes in the fridge for inlet and outlet, put your feed sensor in the fridge and any filament guides it would need and add a cooling fan inside the fridge for the filament.
Mostly "waste of time" :) but experiments like those are important for technological progress. Im surprised you made it to semi-working state tho but we will talk about "surviving washing mashine" after several 10ths of cycles :D
It might help with feed and heat soak if you cool the glue filament strand down before it enters the drive gear. Something as simple as a PTFE tube inside a bowl/bottle of ice water could help lower the temperature enough to reduce its adhesiveness.
Also, preheating the cotton shirt with the iron prior to putting the sticker/logo on would probably help with the amount of back heating needed for adhesion and could minimize the TPU melting issue.
you can get pellets from the shaving aisle in stores, they are used as a waxing strip material.
Tried this in the late '80s with a pen plotter. Was ahead of its time...
What if you use a water bath before you try to spoil the glue? Have the filament come out of the machine into a water bath and then loop up into the part of the machine that wraps it around the spool.
I think this may be the right application for that underwater 3d printer...
A cold working tip: freeze the blender pitcher also for extending the time you can cut it and remove easily.
It reminded me of my whip cream making days, it goes much better when you freeze the bowl and the whisk or mix blades.
You could probably mix 15% parrafin in or a number of other things, the sticks could just be a binder in your spool maker.
Could Polycaprolactone Filament (like Facilan) work for ironing Patches onto T-shirts? Haven't tested it yet how it sticks to PLA.
Es gibt sogenannte Flexfolie zum Aufbügeln auf Stoff die in Schneidplottern verwendet wird.
Die gibt es auch in transparent. Die Folie ist auf der Unterseite mit Schmelzkleber beschichtet.
Abgesehen davon, dass man ja versuchen könnte diese Folie auf der Oberseite zu bedrucken (keine Ahnung ob das Material darauf halten könnte) erzeugt man man für den Plotter im Allgemeinen mehrere Lagen Folie für unterschiedliche Farben und bügelt diese dann übereinander. (Meist mit einer Bügelpresse)
Um in Deinem Fall den Druck zu schonen empfiehlt es sich das Ganze Logo lediglich kurz von der Vorderseite zu fixieren und dann den Stoff zu wenden um durch den Stoff durch gezielt die Kleberschicht von hinten zu erhitzen.
Wonder if you can blend it with pla🤔
10:37 "Problem one is fixed, but how are we able to make the material less sticky..." Well, glue material is sticky. :D
Jetzt muss ich es mal kommentieren nach so vielen beeindruckenden Videos lately: Du bist a Matz! Kodus, Stefan
to improve the quality, you can submerge the 3d printer into a non conductive water like pure water without minerals, this will cool down the filament instantly and the print will look better
I love how your troubleshooting kind of came full circle back to using filament oilers. It's funny how these issues probably were the same things that the 3d printing pioneers faced.
I had this exact question years ago, too bad at the time everyone just said "Why don't you just use PLA?" In my head I was just thinking it could be be a way to make a more kid friendly 3D printer, but instead of filament spools, you could design some sort of tube that would hold actual glue sticks. Then gravity or maybe even a very slow turning gear to push it down.
As StormBurnX said, iron from the fabric side rather than the patch side, that way the TPU doesn't warp as much.
making a composite out of hotglue sticks and some material with the same melting point, but not ask sticky, to make it less sticky as an end product.
I think that a thin sheet of hot glue would work better than a filament for the iron on patches. The sheet could be attached to the bed by heating and the tpu patch would be printed on top of the hot glue sheet
17:18 preheat the fabric for better results
That's a cool idea.
For the t-shirt you should try ironing the fabric with your logo underneath!
Noting how similar hot glue feels to rubber, it would be nice to be able to make some little anti-slide feet for things on my desk.
And now try it in the other way around: 3D print some PLA sticks and feed them into the hot glue gun. Would it work?
💡
@@hastenichgesehn 🕯️👍
At the end of the day the ender 3 Will Always be with you in your toughtest times
Could use the iron from the other side of the shirt, so that you aren't melting anything but the glue.
Thermal mounting tissue is thin paper impregnated with hot melt adhesive. It easily cuts with a scissors and bonds yo most surfaces. It is commonly used to mount photographs to foam board. It would probably work for this application.
Technically, everyone is a 3D Printer
19:00, nothing is a waste of time if you learned something!
Ah, nothing better than making it for the giggles.
I printed hot glue sticks with filament to repair a failed print>:
thats actually smart...and especially its propably better than a 3d pen
@@3DWolfEngineering I know most 3D pens aren't the best, but I have a Mynt3D Pro pen and it works really well and I haven't had any problems with it and I've had it for a few years now
Very cool and curious, but the heat adhesive comes in sheets... very cheap and easy to use to make patches
Anyone else get a "join the army" ad with the words "we're taking over" in the background & feel mildly threatened?
No but i want to
that's pretty funny! I always describe 3D printers as handing a robot a hot glue gun
You should have tried letting it run through a tub of ice water instead of the oiler.
Man, I don't even have a 3D printer. But I love how you approch problems and solve it. This is the kind of entertainment I need.
I have 3😅 0:04
WHHAAAAAAATTTT?!!? 💀
Hi Stephan, great idea, but you can jist print your badge and put hot glue on it. After that iron it!
hot glue is fully able to be combined with ldpe to create a higher temp, less sticky (almost waxy) plastic, would love to see if that made a difference here.
For adding it to the shirt, I would use masking tape to hold it in place, turn the shirt inside out then iron the fabric to the glue rather than passing thr heat through the TPU to the glue to the fabric.
Definitely not a waste of time. The only way we progress as a species is to experiment. Really cool results.
1:56 internal thoughts:
- I wonder how it feels
- cool and still hot
- TOO HOT
- STICKED ON MY FINGER
- DOESN'T LEAVE
- *PANIC*
I wonder if some sort or core or additive to the blend could help get you more desirable properties. Oil/wax coating is nice, but perhaps something to help dry it faster instead? I doubt cornstarch in the blend would help, but it's a start.
1:56 you can see the process of touching the glue, realiseing its hot, and then panicking
I don't know if you're aware of this but the first working prototype of a 3D printer was indeed a hot glue gun on a blueprint plotter that was given a third axis.
Touching to hot glue ? Brilliant!
I thought I made up the idea of a filament oiler for use with scenting filaments.- but sounds like its a real thing. I love youtube for uniting inventors across the web. keep on building!
Very nice!
Might be a stupid question but can't you just glue the bottom of the TPU print using the gluegun?
Fun concept. But for all that trouble, just flip the print and use a spray adhesive.
What a cool process! I'm surprised you didn't cut it with pla pellets, I feel like that would stabilize, or at least de-stick the filament
Don’t iron on the patch. Turn the whole thing over, put the patch down, glue side up. Put the t-shirt on top and iron that. Better to transfer the heat through the shirt than through the printed patch.
you could make hot glue joiner parts that you slot into a spot heat it up with a hot air gun or it could be used at impact resistant material or even for flexible containers or cases.
Use a thermopeltier module, cooling will be better
Thats a fascinating concept. Plus incredibly recyclable.
tip from my grand ma. turn the shirt inside out, put the patch on the inside of the shirt, glue side up, put the ironing paper over the shrit and then iron. this is how she did all my scout patches for my uniforms.
Do you know if plastic shopping bags can be turned into filament? If so, can you make a video about it?
You can shred the glustick with ice water. Water will help to disperse the pieces better, and the ice will help to mill the polymers. Since you always need to dry the shreds first the left over water will be get rid of.
Rub your fingers together to prevent being burned by hot glue. Works like a charm and you'll never be burned again :)
Nice tip from Adam Savage - if you touch melted hot glue with your finger put that finger in your mouth (or just lick it). It will solidify instantly and won't burn your skin. Strange or funny as it sounds it actually works :)
I think it would be better to iron them on from the material/textile side, so that the doesn't have to go through the patches, but through the textile.
The fact that this material is transparent makes it interesting in trying to print things like lenses or even windows for detailed models.
Your dedication is amazing