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Were did you install the censor?

So much wasted plastic

#16 works great.

this is amazing, nice job!

Wanted to say your content is high quality and informative and had good production value. One suggestion would be to speed up your talking and speak with more power and you’ll keep viewers more engaged. Keep it coming!

>wireless >has wires

You realize that no one knows what Excalibur looked like, and that looks nothing like a post-roman sword.

Nice Goblin! does this work in fusion 360?

You know why that's beautiful? Because, beauty is in the EYE OF THE BEHOLDER😁😂 *BA DUM TSSSSSSS* Anyway yea as far as D&D goes I could see putting coils throughout your hexes / squares so when you place the minis down they light up

That base you see the guy popping off the supports was a utter waste. His supports had as much resin as the base. He could have used a 1/4 of those and have the same outcome. I have got 200+ 28mm minis out of 1 bottle.

How to create collapsing design for 3d printing..example sword 3d model

easy and clear simple explanation you got your self a new fan sir

If you are using a 4 years old Ender 3, and a filament that has been sitting unpacked next to your drying clothes for years (like me), dont try anything more complex than grid XD

For fast prints that don’t really need to be that strong I tend to use Lightning infill a lot of the time if the designer hasn’t specified a different one. 😅

For fast prints that don’t really need to be that strong I tend to use Lightning infill a lot of the time if the designer hasn’t specified a different one. 😅

Gyroid Is almost always my preference since it doesn't cross itself.

I think your statement of "It creates a cross-hatch structure that provides constant strength in all directions" for Grid infill is a little confusing. For strength, it provides strong Z height strength but is weaker on the X and Y directions. It's my understanding that was one of the problems Gyroid infill was designed to solve (equal strength in each direction). Also, there is a infill type named "cross-hatch" that Bambu Lab created which might confuse newbies. What infill do you recommend most users use as their default unless they have a specific reason to change it? I have found myself using cross-hatch in Bambu Studio more and more as it is slightly faster than Gyroid and seems to as strong.

Quick note - use that "hole punch template" (the black thing) to cut holes in the sand paper. The sander will then suck some of the air/debris through the sander and out the round outlet (great if you use a vacuum). Thanks for the video - this helps.

Just purchased stand and this video is pointless. If youre stuck re which screws to connect to the TV, many are supppied to cover all size and shapes of tv, plus rubber spacers if you have cables near the VESA screws. I used 4 M8 and 4 rubber spacers. The instructions are pretty dreadful

The ones with the giant air pockets would actually make really cool Geode style dice. Just add some glitter and add some clear resin and you’re good!

Life saver

Followed step by step made the installation seamless!!! Thank you for the video.

TY so much for this 👍

Wow your video summed things up way faster than other TH-camrs videos I have watched. Definitely concise and to the point. Just consider changing your intro and outro music 😅

I saw the TN hat and knew I'd get good info. Found out I'm using the wrong paint type on my dice I designed. Thanks for the video man, it helps alot

I feel like doing this test again with 100% infil with a strain gauge would help fore results. Thanks for the video!

And my wife told me my nozzle size didn't matter she still loved me anyways..... f**kin liar 😂

What’s with the apron lol

You're right. 1 mm nozzle does throw detail out the window. Unless you print really big and stand really far back.

I like .6mm - you get a little increased strength, prints are 50% faster than .4mm nozzle, you just get a little more noticeable layer lines, so far miniatures .6 not good, but for functional parts .6 is awesome.

To all the authors and game masters, thank you for your wisdom.

Meow >w< :3 0w0

It was pretty hard to see the leds with bright studio lighting. I would've gone with rim lighting and a darker fill.

If you want to go crazy you can use fiber optics across the miniature so you can use one led in the base and have multiple pin lights across the model. Like say you wanted to do a starship

Thank you; i tried this in Shape3d on my iPad. I could not get it to snap together. I am going to try adding the box to see if that works.

Voi vittu saatana, why is every youtuber who talks about 3d ptinting now is a bambu shill? How much these weasels pay to creators nowadays?

Good stuff. Simplest way I’ve seen it put.

You sir are a legend, very educational and clearly explained

Please stop with the "eyes closed so we can see that you do your lashes" pose. It's gross. Good info about wireless LEDs, though.

you need another wall or 3 in those prints. Very impressed with the PVC glue.

awesome. I never knew this was possible

You need to change the link to the toggle switches it is a duplicate of the first link. Thank you. This was awesome. I will also be looking at adding this to my d&d/heroquest prints

I learned absolutely nothing from this video at all.

Ahh yes now I know how to instal leds into my 3d prints

Have you found any type or brand of the wireless LEDs that have a better range than average? I have a project that I would like to place the LEDs about 200mm above the coil but that is about 4x the range of the type I've used before.

Is there a reason the black was the postive, not negative? In every case i have used electronics, i always use black for negative, red for positive. Even those battery packs are usually red + and black -

Well, technically, if the LED has to be connected to a coil of _wire_, it's not wire-less, is it! 🙂

You mentioned a few things that will impact the efficiency of the energy transfer, but left out others that could be important when deciding if it's even suitable at all for a 3D printed project! The power efficiency of a wireless LED system will *always* be poor compared to the wired equivalent. Most of the energy is radiated uselessly into surroundings where there are no LEDs, but unfortunately not uniformly. This is why all wireless charging systems for phones, etc. require very close spacing and alignment between the coils to be practical. The only reason the concept works at all for wireless LEDs is because a modern LED can look bright with extremely small amounts of power (by comparison to a phone charger). LEDs that must be positioned well above or below the plane of the transmitter coil will have the most trouble lighting up - even more than ones well outside the coil like you demonstrated. That could make it an ironically terrible choice for certain 3D designs featuring lights - something people ought to know *before* spending money and time designing a print around wireless system parts. The best reasons to use them would be: there must be many isolated LEDs embedded in the print (and fiber optics are also impractical), or they need to be embedded in movable pieces, or separated by water or clear zones where visible wires would ruin the effect. There are good reasons why this tech is not widely used commercially (and never will be).

1/2 duplex

I have no idea why this video isn't more popular, these tips are awesome!