HeatBreak Design Causing Heat Creep? (Exploring Prusa Mini)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2024
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In todays video we are going to take a dive into the Prusa Mini Heatbreak. I bought my first Prusa Mini used about a year ago now and have printed a ton of PETG with it. However, when printing with PLA I have experienced inconsistency and under extrusion. Today we will compare the design of the stock heatbreak to the Bondtech version which has a slightly different design. We will do some printing with both and take a look at them with the Flir thermal camera.
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The resolution of that scale is not high enough to detect underextrusion, especially in a benchy. You need at least a .1g resolution scale. 1g of underextrusion on a benchy would be significant.
Scale won't help detect it at any sensitivity. All it can say is one benchy weights different from another. Unless there is a calculation to know exactly how much the part would weight under ideal conditions, nether the weight or mass will tell you how close to ideal the printed part is. With infill that becomes much more difficult than it would be for a solid part.
Still running my mini all stock. Ran everything from CF nylon to tpu to PC thru it. From short prints to long prints. Been running it for 1.5 years now :) I've had worst luck with PLAs that are silk or PETG then any other filament. Usually the silk types Grinded away at extruder etc, but a bump in nozzle temp stopped that issue on next print.
It would be very helpful if you would have mentioned what type of metal the heat breaks were?
So lemme get this straight, you took the heartbreak out of the heatsink and then were surprised when the heartbreak absorbed heat? There’s probably a reason why you didn’t see the heartbreak heating when it was mounted.
Good idea and probably an improvement. I like the idea that you purchased a spare. I see too many people who purchase one of something and if it fails have to wait for a replacement if they can get it. After 50 years in computer repair, I always have spare parts.
First thing I did to my prusa mini when I got it in early 2021 was put a SE mosquito on it and I have had ZERO issues. It's a great hotend printer combo!
I've been battling with heat creep for the past 7 day's solid, I upgrade my am8 to a e3d v6 clone, it printed fine with Sunlu PLAMETA at 180 for 3 days....I changed something in my setup that couldn't go back but then no matter what I printed at x time in the print I would get heat creep. I haven't solved it but my latest print is currently running, I've learnt a lot this past 3 days! It's been fun for sure I've come to the conclusion eventually the block heat would creap my theory is it oozed out (like on a cooldown) when it retracted at a certain point/time/layer when having a small healthy pool in the throat which caused an air pocked that expanded at the PTFE; The reason I think this is every time I manually unclogged the throat and took off the nozzle I would see the top of an air bubble just a bit bigger than the PTFE itself going up around 3mm I would say it had a wall thickness of almost nothing but it was solid as a rock. I switched motor's which didn't solve it, calibrated it to the max so I knew I was at a good base on the feed rate and then dialled down the temps.
I got to 165 on the heater and probe provided and switched to the stock heater and started at 170 and worked down. What started all this off was the dreaded tick but now I'm sat at 168 degrees and it seems a sweet spot - The previous heater would cause the temperatures to fluctuate a lot which when it spiked to 171/172 would cause the pool it seems I managed to catch it early once and the bubble was just forming.
Great video as always 👍
I just installed an all metal heat break on my Ender 3 S1 Sprite extruder and appreciate seeing the difference your camera showed here
Actually I got heatcreap mostly on sections of the print with many retractions - even with the bondtech heatbreak. Actual reason was the coldend fan. While on the mk3 Prusa used a noctua at full speed, on the Mini a cheap but powerful fan is used. But it is reduced to 38% speed in firmware. After increasing the coldend fan speed by a modified firmware to about 60%, no hearcreap anymore. After solving the problem this way, I actually got rid of the original coldend fan and replaced it by a noctua running at 100% (on the old Buddy versions GND is PWM controlled, so I just connected the black fan wire to permanent ground).
While I now use another hotend (revo micro) and also direct drive, I still use my noctua fan at 100% as coldend fan - and it works perfectly.
With all thees people having problems with clogging hotends due to heatcreap I can not understand why Prusa do not allow to adjust coldend fan speed in hardware settings. Most people would be able to solve the problem by just increasing from 38% to 50% or maybe 60% fan speed without any hardware mod.
I’m starting with Petg only as well. Prusa mini first printer. Why did you decide to go Petg only and then why did you decide to switch to pla?
What model of Flir camera are you using?
I have nothing but issues printing polyterra PLA on my prusa minis. I feel like the filament absorbs moisture in under a day and the mini has so much under extrusion regardless of multipliers and temps
Switching from PETG to PLA can sometimes cause issues as the petg sticks to the inside of the heatbreak that doesn't melt when at PLA temperatures
Obi Wan Zerant does have some really good ideas. Nice explanation
Where did you get the file for the spool holder.
My Prusa Mini+ does well with PETG and PA12. I don't think there is much difference when you pull out heatbreak from the radiator. Not exactly a good test because radiator absorbs a lot of heat and dissipates it. I regularly print with hightemp materials that are 240-260 C, and PTFE in the heatbreak is fine. It does not go all the way to the nozzle and just the fact that there is a lot of contact with the radiator kind of ensures that PTFE won't reach 230-240 C
All stock and still going strong in 2024
I have issues with PETG on the mini. But it printed ASA perfect.
it could also be the switch of materials required seasoning by putting a few drops of 3:1 oil or machine oil into ptfe tubing. the pla could be getting stuck and dragging in tube from the pteg absorbing any oil in the tubing especially in the heat break area. pla will self lubricate over time from additives of plastic particles that contain oil. there is no way to be certain but as a good practice re-seasoning when switching back to pla, you can also run about a meter of abs plastic thru as well to do the trick.
do NOT oil your filaments! WTF!
My issues are when printing petg longer than an hour. I can’t stop the heat creep on the stock heat break.
Yeah especially when you have prints with overall low volumetric flow rate.
Maybe they forgot the thermal compound on the early minis
The stock heatbreak was definitely designed to be user proof. People broke the heatbreak on the mk3 all the time. The newer Mini+ has a delta fan that is louder but better performing so it reduces the chances of heat creep.
Not bad idea
Try PLA with glitter, with standard heatbreak it was na nightmare
can u make a 3d printed helicopter ? in future video? like rc one
Hello!
✌️🇵🇹
Yes it does but the bigger problem with the mini is the feeder design that is bad an unreliable. Bondtech fixes this.
hoi
Good editing, I didn't love the content.
If you want to check for weight differences between prints, you're going to need a more precise scale. I picked up one with 0.01g accuracy for about $15 bucks off the Bezos Express. It's $17 now, but eh, what isn't? TH-cam doesn't seem to like links in comments, but if you search for B07L8ZVVRM (the item ID), it should pop up. Fuzion brand, black and orange case. Gets the job done.