Power Steering Pressure Test
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ธ.ค. 2015
- To learn more power steering system repair tips and information, visit Garage Gurus at fmgaragegurus.com.
Troubleshooting a noisy power steering system or decreased power assistance on your vehicle? To isolate the source of the problem, run a pressure test on the power steering system. In this video, Master Technician Mark Ingram of Garage Gurus shows how to perform this diagnostic test.
Starting with a pressure gauge hooked up between the power steering pump and the power steering gear, Mark goes through the steps. Through process of elimination, this test will help save time determining where the issue is. Count on Garage Gurus to help you get your vehicle repair done right.
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Good video, I wish you would have showed how you hooked up gauge!!
Hi this is my first time encountering your channel. Nice video, would have appreciated more detail on the hookups
Mark, you made a wonderful, concise, complete, & clearly explained pressure test video. I'm a mechanical engineer with 35 years of testing & troubleshooting commercial HVAC mechanical systems. I love your video and I look forward to following anything else you post. Now to purchase the right gauge & fittings to test my 1989 Camry PS system.
I replaced the entire system with new hoses, filter, belt, + a remanufactured pump & rack & pinion steering gear. I have no leaks, I vacuum bled the air, all parts fit well, there's no noise when starting, driving, or turning, the steering wheel recenters itself after a corner, there's no wandering, only a small & normal dead zone
... but I don't have power steering anymore, either. It's interesting to attempt parallel parking.
Good, perhaps you can inform us where the tester guage is connected to? The pump reservoir? the hose to the pump reservir? The inlet to the rack? The outlet of the rack? Please explain since it is such a great video.
One of those dead-head test should be done at 1,500 RPM, note PSI and return valves. Simply because it is not at idle all the time when in use, plus it could reveal and pressure relief valve problem the did not show at idle before.
Flushing the fluid is a maintenance issue, while it should be done before replacing or rebuilding one of the components. It is highly recommended to replace both lines when flushing is completed before installing a new or reman part as well. The low pressure hose should also have a metal inline filter installed preferably one with a magnet inside as this benefits the longevity of the parts. If the vehicle has a tow hitch installed, inquire the customer to the frequency and weight being towed. This could require an aftermarket cooler installed in place of the factory metal “U” shaped tube that his most common and greatly undersized for heavy frequent towing be it at highway speeds for long distances or at low speeds on a farm hauling large round bales of hay everyday. This could lead to an up-sell for an automatic transmission vehicle as well. Just a reminder from an experienced service tech. ASE Master Tech since 1978 plus L1 Certified - Retired
An amazing video,really useful,the problem is finding the proper adapters to hook up the gauge; i wonder if i, wearing good protection goggles and heavy gloves, **briefly** clamped the hi line at idle with pliers i would hear the pump whine,indicative of it being generating high pressure, and therefore proven good, pointing to a bad rack, with an internal leak or a bad switchover valve.
Great video. Can you tell me the pressure readings to test my Corvette 1978 at idle and also at 1100 RPMs? I just installed a Borgeson power steering upgrade kit but the assistance is very weak. I have the stock GM pump and believe it might not have enough pressure due to its age, but there are no leaks or noises. Thanks!
Very good information. Thank you
Thanks for the video and your time
Thank you for this info it help me a lot.
thank you very much for the lesson
good video. i think you should also turn wheel left and right to also help check steering rack condition
Hi, Yeah I agree with Joe ( below) and I quote: "Good video, I wish you would have showed how you hooked up gauge!!" Perhaps the High pressure side screws onto the gauge valve to withstand such a high pressure?
Manufacturer manuals and also professionals on youtube have the no more than 5 second rule when the valve is fully closed, I noticed you turned a lot to get the valve to close and open, overall I think you had it at max pressure for almost 1 minute. The claim is that the pump can burn out if you keep it longer than 5 seconds.
Vane pumps really don't like being deadheaded. But yeah, 5 seconds is a bit short. Should survive a couple of minutes. The reason the pump will be damaged is that it overheats.
Very good infom master
Thamkuy 👍👍👍🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Thanks for the video Mark. Is the 1425-1500 psi what a 2007 Dodge Charger should be within? Looked on line, found nothing. I have very minimal power assist in both directions
Here are the pressure specs for a 5.7L:
At idle you should have 50 to 125 PSI. If higher there is a restriction on the pressure side.
Then hold the engine at 1100 RPM while fully closing the restriction valve on the gage for NO MORE THAN 2 - 4 seconds. Pressure should be within 1640 PSI to 1740 PSI. Repeat this 2 more times and record the pressures. They should be within 50 PSI of each other. If not the pressure limiting valve in the pump is faulty and the pump needs replacement. If the 1100 RPM readings are less than 1640 PSI the pump is not generating sufficient pressure and needs replacement.
Wish I knew where to get this tester,called my snap on guy,he said he hasn’t sold one in ten years,
My problem is a 2006 Chevy Trailblazer with a new steering rack,it’s a very frustrating system to install as it gives you about an inch and a half of clearance to get your 1/4 inch socket on the steering lines ,the Grommet or seals are very small one time use and your lines have to puncture through those seals,so then the customer has driven this over a month without issues,now she comes in with more and more loss of steering to the point where this skinny girl can’t turn it anymore,the pump makes no noise ,I can’t see any swirling of fluid in the reservoir,no bubbles. Nothing,jacked up the car and it turns left better than right .on the steering rack where the lines go in showed visible paint bubbling as in extreme heat from high pressure perhaps and somewhere in that area small drips I can’t see from where unless I remove the cross member and plates
I don’t want to just throw parts on this thing although it’s cheaper (88$) to buy a pump then to buy a pressure tester
Can you help ?
As a side note I have 4 regular customers with this brand vehicle and all had the Steering rack replaced by me 3 never had an issue
Won't be better to use a tap valve instead of needle valve?
How much pressure it create?
What if the pressure is low at idle? I am getting 20psi.
Good explanation, but 1) Did you have the guage on the high side, or the return? If the high side is good, what pressure should you read on the return side (output of steering gear box)?
We normally measure only high side pressure. Pressure is created by restricting the flow of a fluid. The return line has minimal or no restriction. Any pressure in the return will be created by:
• High viscosity due to extremely cold fluid temperature
• Restriction due to the length of the return line or PS fluid coolers in the return line
• Pinched, restricted, or damaged return line
• The height of the reservoir in relation to the steering gear. Greater height = greater pressure
Manufacturers do not even publish a specification for return pressure since it is normally zero or just a couple of PSI.
What if the flow at idle is almost 0psi. But when you deadhead the pump it still goes to 1600lbs. Wheels off the ground you can turn with one finger but on the ground no power steering assist is felt and hard to turn. What would that be?
did you figure it out?
The colour of that brake fluid though !!
Just to note you can also need hydraulic oil for vw ps
What year vw? What pressure can they generate? Im trying to build a belt driven hydraulic system and have a couple old vw ps pumps now
No
um, where the hell is the pressure guage pliugged into? A spark plug hole? it would be nice if we know where to connect it in order to do a proper test? At the inlet to the power steering pump. Do we remove a hose from the rack and connect it there on the inlet? Or on the rack outlet? i mean geez. you just start the truck and pull a tester out of your ass. Do all cars have testers already connected and sitting under the hood like this, or does only this vehicle?
hi, can you send me a link to the inexpensive pressure gauge that you used. thanks. if you feel like not promoting the product through this venue, I can provide you my email address. thanks
Nicandro, here is a link to the Power Steering Pressure Gauge we used -> www.amazon.com/Aven-789-0125-Power-Steering-Testing/dp/B00NWDCXH0. It's the AVEN 789-0125 Pro Power Steering Test Kit
Thaks
I just bought a Kent Moore J-25323 (Humvee) military surplus, but brand new for $62 shipped on ebay. Kent Moore Power Steering Analyzers retail for $1200. Tests pressure and flow rate. Probably just need the right adapters / fittings for various mfg pumps and racks.
Is there a similar test procedure to diagnose the rack or gearbox?
@@shieldcracker Reply for others wondering the same thing. I think short answer is no. But I think if you turn the wheels hard to the stops, (engine on), the pressure (test valve open) should register close to previous deadhead pressure. If not, fluid is leaking past the cylinder seals or the spool valve in the gear...
Maybe someone can affirm this.
Again, do this only for a few seconds at a time. Let it idle and cool a minute or so by circulating the hot fluid out of the pump. Fluid will get burning hot in the pump is seconds when not flowing. Pressure gets converted into heat instead of motion when the rack cannot move, physics...