One tip to make the process go faster. After everything is set up but before you start turning the wheel, go back to the plug on the pump reservoir and empty the old fluid out. Once empty, refill the reservoir with new fluid. What this does is makes it so you are not pumping more nasty fluid from the reservoir through the system than you need to. Saves you some time.
@@larsbaer3508 its the return line, so no. The fluid moves to the reservoir in that direction so the small bit of air would be forced into the reservoir.
Retired military mechanic and currently a school bus mechanic. This is a good video. Clear, to the point and effective. Most people are good about changing their oil but never change the other fluids. Power steering, antifreeze, transmission, differential, and brakes. All these fluids have shelf lives and eventually need replacing guys.
my old BMW claimed to have lifetime transmission fluid. I never changed it because I saw people saying the gears get worn down and those tiny pieces of metal accumulate in the fluid. Apparently it doesn't hurt the system and actually helps prevent slipping as those gears wear down. Could that be true?
@@garylangley4502 I had an old Caprice Classic like that once it leaked about a quart of engine oil a week, I kinda considered it self changing at that point, so I'd just throw a new filter on every few months and just keep adding oil. Still ran 2 years later, drove it to the junk yard all rotted out in the back.
@@veteranheavyequipmechanic4990 I had a friend that had a 1963 Chevrolet pickup truck that leaked and burned a quart of oil every 75 miles. I had a fairly new Jeep Cherokee, and a 1926 Model T Ford. I drove the Model T every weekend and the Cherokee was my daily driver, so I changed the oil in both cars frequently. I would just give him the old oil, which was still fairly clean, for his truck.
1ROAD, as an expert your word is your bond to your audience. Clickbaiting is a sure way to instill unnecessary doubt of sincerity and brings question as to how you go about obtaining viewers attention. The title implies teaching mistake avoidance but no mistakes were mentioned. Consider the title “My BEST but little known method of swapping power steering fluid” You may or may not get the same viewing stats but you won’t be eroding the faith in you with those that really want to have it.
Awesome video! One FYI; When pouring liquid out of a bottle shaped like the one in this video, always pour with the spout at the top of the bottle , not at the bottom of the bottle(like in this video). If you pour with the spout at the top of the bottle, the liquid will flow out a HELLUVA lot better and you’ll have better control over pouring it so that you don’t spill all over the place….It works.
Replacing ATF with hydraulic fluid? You did a great job, 40+ you say? How? Edit: I guess I'll just yard all the ATF out of my 4L60e and put hydraulic fluid in it, it'll be okay right?
@Ozmiander Correct to an extent.. they serve the same purpose but are two totally different chemicals. That's like saying a ATF and brake fluid are the same thing.
@@wansolve2036 The red tint is a very recognizable dye. The ATF actually has friction modifiers that DO make a difference. Subaru is a great example of this. Here is a link to their (overpriced) product. Read it's description www.subaruexpress.com/p/Subaru__Forester/Automatic-Transmission-HPPower-Steering-Fluid/49506082/SOA427V1500.html
@Mr Hansen man he wanted to hate it because he didn't know what the author meant. But by seeing it he could not say anything wrong therefore he things it's the best way too.
Why did you click on it. As a pro do you really need to see baba in his garage dyi. Ask all data or snap on if they have therpy available. Sure it will be the most expensive but I could save your career.
@@capedoryus alldata is trash and snap on can go duck themselfs beleave me when i say neither of those companies with make or break your career. And if they do then you need to find somthing else to do with your life because your neither smart or creative enough to be a mechanic. 90 percent of proplems can discoverd with a ohm meter and a test light. The other 10 can solved with a google search
@@capedoryus I am , a journeyman diesel/heavy equipment tech and your premise is not only simply wrong , it is entirely incorrect. If you really do feel that Alldata or Snap On plays that big of a part in the career field of vehicle repair , then you need to step away from ever, picking up even so much as a pair of pliers. Unfortunately simple mechanical physics is not your thing and that helps keep people like Matt Fowlerr and myself, employed in repairing mistakes shade tree mechanics tend to repeat on a consistent basis. I may point out also that, your syntax, in either print , or in verbal application is sorely lacking. At least one semester in technical writing would do you, a world of good. Probably two in your case, which equates to about 16 weeks or, 4 months. Good luck in your next career field endeavor.
My power steering was self flushing. The routine before I started was check the level. Add fluid. Drive till it started whining. Refill it. After a while I saved up enough to change the rack and pinion. Even had enough fluid left in the gallon jug to give to the mechanic to refill the system. It got almost 100 miles to a gallon of fluid. The old Envoy was like a old Harley and Hansel & Gretel before the rack and pinion got replaced. It also made the frame and the rest of the chassis rust proof for a while. Did not do the steering system bushings much good. Ended up replacing those too. It was just a bit possible those were tired anyway. 200,000 miles will do that.
Huh. You must be a fellow Dodge owner. Power steering leaks are the best ones to have! When driving the air coming by helps distribute the power steering fluid onto every surface under your vehicle. Think of it as your vehicle doing its own active rust prevention.
And people like you are part of the problem why our oceans are dying. If you can't maintain it, you should be able to have it done. I, myself, am totally Pro when it comes to Fossil Fuels, but in the end, people with your thinking are why the Masses think Green Energy is the Solution when it's your polluting ass that needs the cleaning. Green & Fossil is what has evolved thru the ages, Nuclear in its beginning, the 1950s had a learning curve too. Fortunately, with all the outcry, Research has never stopped, and most folks think it is dead as fossil fuels. When green proves it's not a 24/7 energy source, Nuclear will. We don't need Power Plants the size of Rhode Island or Yakima creating 3 Mile Island, no - Nuclear energy is being miniaturised like everything else, will be self contained and provide Power not like batteries we will always be throwing away filling garbage dumps. Think of a car's motor being replaced by a nuclear reactor that is a fraction of the size, out performes gas & electric, negligible pollution compared to our options now, and about every 20 years, you replace it with a new one. Same power output on its last day as it had on its first, without adding or exchanging- throwing away the crap like we do now. I can't say when, but when the masses realize solar, wind & batteries aren't the anwser, nuclear isn't the Shark in the water to destroy our world, a little education to the young who don't even know or remember the past will be accepted as the New Technology for the future.
I did my 100 series land cruiser power steering last month after watching your video and it worked a treat. Jacked up the front wheels, engine off, full lock to full lock. Perfect. Many thanks from Australia.
It's so nice to see a how to video from someone that actually knows what they are doing and can clearly convey the information without wasting a bunch of time describing obvious things. Also good clean camera work and editing. Thanks!
I found the site by exploring utube. I have a 1967 GTO. With no history of it,I decided to change all hoses & fluids. This video was GREAT ! Thank you , Kevin
This is why its SO IMPORTANT to develop leaks in your vehicle, so you're always refilling the systems in your vehicle so you don't have to go through all this trouble. #lifehacks
Well, my E39 has done a Oil change on the fly. Drive, fill every 1.000km half a Liter in and there you go. :D Now all leaks are away and I must return to the normal way of changing the Oil. :D
I agree, used to have an old Toyota that just wouldn't die. It burned about a quart of oil every couple of weeks and I just kept topping it off and changing the filter once in a while. Loved that car...
Just a little tip to maybe save a little fluid and time. Drain the reservoir, then plug it, refill the reservoir with fresh fluid, then start your flush procedure. Or use a baster to remove the old fluid. Why top of the reservoir with new fluid and mix it in with the old fluid? Good video though. Good advice.
Great video. Note: Some viewers may not know that using a simple yardstick or long screwdriver to find the source of any noises works great. Place one end on any suspected component and the other end to your ear. When you hear the whine, you've found your culprit.
I took my car to the mechanic because my power steering was leaking and was making a whining noise. I got the car back from the mechanic he fixed the leak but the van was still making a little noise he told me that is air and should go away in a couple days it's been a week and the van is making a loud whining sound all the time now! Can I fix this problem myself by doing a flush? Or is something else wrong with the car? I'm very upset right now.
@@Lukie2131 Usually, the whining sound is from a lack of fluid. That can cause damage to the pump. No big deal. If the pump has been refilled and still makes noise, that could be the problem. I would look to see if there are any after-market products to help or just ignore the sound. If you elect to replace the pump, that's fine too. Don't worry about it. It's not going to cause any other problems.
Love you English - well spoken, loud and great verbal grammar - made it a lot easier to follow without rewinding back to hear again what someone said. Thanks
Small tip: Instead of keep turning the steering wheel lock to lock you can turn the wheels by hand left and right when they are on the air, way much faster,at least if it's a system without much friction.
I just did my power steering pump. I found it easier to just vacuum pump the return line at 20 in HG. Its also helps if you vacuum pump the old fluid out of the reservoir first. Then you need to vacuum bleed the power steering afterwards. Otherwise it will whine and not last as long. New power steering pump had the instructions.
The presentation was professional. No jerking camera moves! Most of these DIY videos get me dizzy from all the camera juggling. Not this one. Perfect and best I’ve seen. Glad to subscribe. Strong work! I’ll use your “no start”method.
I was just gettin ready to say the same. Even tho this is a yr old video, its nice to see ppl pass on info that helps someone, maybe he doesnt have defective jack stands but i might not have known that..good job!
Very well out together video, I enjoyed it. I do disagree with step 1 however. Step 1 should be to remove as much old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster before you begin flushing, then jack up the front of the vehicle. Without removing the old fluid from the reservoir first, you are lengthening the amount of time needed to flush out the old fluid. Other than this small issue, this is a great DIY for tech savvy people that may not know how a conventional power steering system works.
@@MrHawksley maybe replace old fluid with the new one in the reservoir as much as possible at the beginning so it takes shorter time for the new fluid to flush out the old?
The power steering system bleeds out air as you are turning the wheels from lock to lock. So when you are performing the flush, it also bleeds itself assuming there is enough new fluid in the reservoir
@@MrHawksley No, air is only going to be introduced if you turn the pump or steering wheel with no fluid in the reservoir. Empty reservoir of old fluid, fill with new, then flush...it will save time.
@@getsum697 Under normal circumstances. I was more wondering if air is getting in when the low pressure "plug" is attached and unattached. I guess if the system self bleeds it's not an issue.
Why do a lot of ppl hate on this guys videos so much? What is wrong with him? Because I don’t see a reason why I like his videos he’s actually doing everything at home with hand tools which is what most of us have at home he does a great job and explains his stuff way better then most TH-camrs
I couldn’t do it the way you did but I use a 100ml syringe with a long plastic tube attached to it. I sucked out as much as I could. Then did the same thing to 3 days later. The Steering did feel much better when I was done it was much smoother with no dead spots
Your original fluid seems to be the standard Dexron III ATF fluid which is a transmission based fluid for GMC vehicles. Manufactures are fairly clear on not switching power steering and brake fluid from the recommended. You may want to consider extracting the initial fluid from the reservoir before disconnecting the return line, then fill the reservoir with clean fluid before you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and then keep topping up as you go like you mention.
I think there are two things here that you could improve in your method. Leave the cap on that will limit the flow of oil out of the tank. Have the drain hose ready to put on the tank instead.Take the cap off and finish draining the tank. Plug the tank. Next put the drain line in the return line. Turn the wheels lock to lock. You have eliminated 80% of the old fluid. Fill the tank and turn the wheels lock to lock, you should see clean fluid coming out almost immediately. I don't see any purpose in mixing old fluid with new any more than necessary, unless you just like to contaminate new fluid. You will use half or less of the new fluid to get the same result.
@@livenfree Yeah I think I was a bit wordy there. Here is the jist of it. He plugs the drain line on the back of the tank IMMEDIATELY, because he is so worried about spilling fluid. Instead of plugging it why not just put the drain line (temporarily) directly on the back of the tank or reservoir as it is more commonly referred to? By leaving the cap on it will slow the flow out of the reservoir, and you will likely spill less. Remove the cap and allow the reservoir to drain completely. After it is completely drained THEN plug it. Next concentrate on the steering box or ram. Turn the wheels side to side and get as much fluid out as you can. Now you have eliminated as much of the old fluid as possible. At that point, I personally, would call it done and refill the system. However, you could refill the system and continue to turn the wheels back and forth an push new fluid through the system. The key is to empty the reservoir AND the steering box AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, BEFORE adding any new fluid. By eliminating as much of the old fluid as possible, you avoid contaminating the new fluid as much as possible. Well that was pretty wordy too, but hopefully you get the point.
Tip: When pouring oil, put the spout on the high side... It does several things: 1) Allows air to enter the spout without gurgling 2) Allows the tip angle to be more horizontal before the flow starts 3) Easier to pour 4) Less spills
This also applies to drinks stored in cartons where the cap is offset. I see a lot of people struggling with pouring milk, it's hilarious how they could so easily avoid that.
@@kahsta6343 In that case, here is another tip... Open a banana from the bottom end and it's easy, open a banana from the hanging end, and it's hard. ...and the stem becomes a nice little handle.
Informative video. Learned a bit on how to change the power steering fluid. Otherwise the old way with a turkey baster to remove the fluid out of the power steering pump with the vehicle running when turn the steering wheel all the way left and right a few times, back and forth. And keeping dumping power steering fluid til aren't able to make it any lighter than can.
I am a old guy, that being said ,most people have always said , If its not broke don't fix it, then they would only fix the hose or replace the pump then just add fluid,,, knucklheads,, like your vids, I have done this and the transmission trick a few times, they really freak when I tell them about that. I also have altered a dip stick for them that I use a mighty vac to remove all the air, overkill I know, subscribed thanks
Thanks for the video. Flushing without engine/pump running is a correct way. Unfasten the flare fittings on the steel pipes going to the rack cylinder and do the same thing - steer from stop left to stop right few times. This will drain the old fluid almost to the last drop both from the rack and pump with hoses. Make sure do not over-tighten them back - I think they are about 15 ft. lb.
Thanks for the video. I have changed my oil, brake fluid and coolant and now the power steering fluid is next on the list. And if anyone asks what the whine is, don't tell them it's a dodgy alternator - it's a supercharger 😂
Thank you! I will try this next time I service my cars. What I have been doing from time to time is aspirating out the res and refilling it.... not every time I change the engine oil but sometimes. That is a partial fluid change over time. I like your approach.
Great video. What I do, what is not a real complete flush but it is easy to do, is to remove almost all old fluid from reservoir and replace with new one. Drive for a day or two and repeat procedure. And keep doing until go trough 2L of new fluid. Is not a complete flush because new fluid is mixing with old one but it is easy and always fluid look clear. After this, replace fluid in reservoir once at every 6 months so allways is there almost new fluid.
It’s Satisfying watching the fluid go from dirty to clean. Great and informative video. That’s the number one over looked fluid that needs to be changed regularly. Thanks 🙏
D S I’ve always just done the slower method, where I’ll buy a litre bottle of fluid and each day when I get home from work I’ll syringe the fluid out of the reservoir and refill the reservoir. I’ll do this each day when I get home from work until the litre bottle is used up. Then a few months later I’ll do it again. Always keeping the fluid bright red for life. Won’t prevent a leak from developing in your power steering down the track, but will go a long way to keeping the pump in perfect working order.
@@hulaganz you might think its not air tight bit it sort of is. it does not let air in that is why when you take you PS cap off there is usually a "sucking" sound the cap is designed to let low pressure out (because the fluid expands as it gets hot) but not take air in(as the fluid cools it shrinks in volume causing a slight vacuum) . Jacob is 100% right. leave the cap on and you wont spill very much fluid at all.
i should also say if you are gonna do this job while the fluids/lines are hot(your crazy) take the cap off to release the pressure then put the cap back on... if you don't do this and just leave the cap on its gonna shoot hot fluid everywhere like a fire hose.
I just shove an old plastic yoghurt tub underneath to catch all the spillage. You probably *want* as much to drain out as possible; or use an old turkey baster to suck out all the old fluid.
Thanks for sharing your technique. It apparently has worked well in all 3 cases, so will give it a go on my next steering fluid change. Great narration and clear instructions, upload more videos.
I run 10k Service intervals on ALL my vehicles. modern oils can easily handle it. Every 10k i do oilchange, suck out and replace powersteering, drain and fill Tranny (no filter) drain and fill both diffs, and t-case if it has one) Every 30K, I add a filter change to the transmission, and a drain and fill on the coolant. The fluid stays pretty clean always doing this, and any contamination is removed practically immediately so it doesnt sit there and wear on components for 10s of thousands of miles. Especially important with the diffs and trannies since they use clutches.
Absolutely FASCINATING and informative. I'm thinking most DIY'ers mainly focus on just changing engine oil. But, there are other oils in the vehicle in the tranny and power steering assembly. They all need new fluids to keep seals soft and sealing and systems functioning properly. People like you take the mystery out of working on those systems and help us to keep rolling along. Many thanks.
I would also add in an aftermarket power steering fluid filter (available from the usual on line companies) that's installed in the low pressure line by cutting out enough of the straight section of the to accommodate the added length of the filter and barb fittings. Just make sure to check the inside diameter of your return line so you can get the propeer size filter kit. The jury is still out on the filter I put on my '00 Tundra V-8 system, but for no more that the filter kit costs, why not?? I've always used the running motor method to do the flushing, but will give this a try next time. Thank you for the educational video sir!!
Well, it's cool that this can be done alone without making a mess. My preferred method is to do the same thing but with two people and the engine running to really push the fluid through. The last one I did, I flushed 5 quarts through because I had a bunch of ATF on hand that I got super cheap. Yes, you can use ATF for power steering fluid in most vehicles, and many even specify it.
Hard to believe there were some thumbs down. I’m gonna guess they were mechanics that just charged someone $100 for the same thing. Don’t hate I’ve worked in shops for a few decades and that’s just business BUT a clear east to follow video showing how easy it is and anyone with any mechanical skills certainly can perform the same task. I say great video bud thanks for sharing I’ll be checking your others out. You learn something new every day if not you didn’t pay attention!!👍🏻👍🏻
Great informative video. ONE Suggestion: Please tell us how many Power Steering Pints gave up their life in the flushing of the system. Helps us recruit the right number of Pints to proceed.
Pouring bottles with an offset spout as indicated in the picture on the side, or with the spout on the higher side of the bottle makes it easier to pour. Also having the funnel with the extended part at the bottom to help catch more fluid works too. Or...cover the opening with 2 fingers and slowly lift your fingers when the bottle is tilted to control the flow.
I can see this channel grow to 5 millions subscribers in about a year or two. This guy is as awesome as other mechanic legends like Scotty Kilmer, CCN, wizard or Chris Fix.
This reminds me of a situation a few years ago regarding flushing brake fluid. I was visiting my mother and I lived many miles from her. Each time I visited I would check her car for proper fluid levels etc. Once while visiting for a weekend I noticed that the brake fluid had become dark and needed flushed, and advised her to take it in to the dealer. When she told the service manager this he told her that he had never heard of changing brake fluid. (Gives you a lot of confidence on this dealers service manager.). So my brother in law did it for her.
You generally don't. When you get your brakes serviced, they bleed the lines. They are supposed to bleed until fluid is clear, and top off the brake fluid levels while doing it.
Your not doing yourself or your customer any service by just jamming the piston back in and calling it a day. The fluid absorbs water. The necessity of having it changed can be debated, but figuring most brakes last 30-50k generally translates to 3-5 years. Ps pump fluid changes aren't even a thing, not part of a regular change interval. Yet here we are!!!!
Historically changing (flushing and replacing) brake fluid was not part of the recommended maintenance for most automotive products. Fluid was changed only if and when the system was opened up to do a repair. However, that has recently changed for many manufacturers, and many include changing brake fluid every X number of years (Ford for instance is 3 years) in their scheduled maintenance requirements.
Very nicely done. Right level of detail, and to the point without a lot of extra banter or expletives some others seem to need to offer. And good quality on the video. Many thanks.
Thank you. Getting prepped to do this for a 2011 Subaru Forester. I think the pump is bad. One's on order. Rebuild. This process is similar to what I did about 5 years ago to bleed the brakes on my Ford F-250. I learned there to start the engine for the brake vac assist!
REMEMBER: not all vehicles use power steering fluid for the power steering system. My '96 BMW Z3 takes ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) instead. It may say right on the reservoir cap, or your might have to consult your owner's manual. Just remember to check for your specific vehicle!
@@Destilight Will make this job so much harder for you mate. I think having a power steering system on you car maybe a prerequisite for this task??????😅
finding the correct PS fluid for an 07 Mazda was a nightmare. Some sources said mineral oil based, some said ATF fluid, and some said Type III, etc.. I still don't know what kind the OEM specifies...
Actually that fluid you are pumping out doesn’t look bad at all. From the beginning you can see light through it. GM for many years used Dextron Transmission fluid in the Power Steering Pump Reservoir and I believe the reason it may seem dark to you. I see the PowerSteering Fluid you purchased is clear. In the past all power steering fluid looked like Trans Fluid and probably was what came in the bottle labeled Power Steering Fluid. Believe it or not Transmission Fluid starts out clear until they add the dye. I tell you this based on the fact I was in the Auto Parts business 38 years as a owner of a Carquest Auto Parts Store and Auto Parts WD now retired. You surely didn’t hurt anything by changing it but I would of left it alone and reattached the hose and just topped the reservoir off with new fluid. Nice job on the video by the way.
in my country they don't even sell "power steering fluid" if you ask for it in auto parts store they give you just regular ATF. But on some old Mercedes those use hydraulic fluid on power steering.
@@MoparMadness93 No, it's not. Ask any Honda owner, you MUST use Honda specific fluid. Also, most European cars use Pentosin hydraulic fluid. I've been in the parts business for almost 37 years, we currently stock 8 different types of ATF and at least 5 types of power steering fluid. 20 years ago these attitudes would have been accurate. I also think that fluid was due to be changed, it started out pink or clear, not coffee brown.
Ive been changing power steering fluid and "flushing" trans fluid under power... This is a great method alot like bleeding brakes... Thanks for posting.
Great video, I liked seeing the fluid move as the wheels turn. I just did this for my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 147,000 miles on the clock. The fluid looked like old black motor oil and had obviously never been flushed before. Hopefully this will add some life to the power steering pump. Pretty easy once you have the right size clear hose and splice fitting. Thanks for the video.
It’s better to put the plug back in and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a couple of times to release any trapped air bubbles before starting the car. Great video!!
On the vehicle in this video I have a simple way. I place a large shallow pan under the vehicle, and then take a long skinny neck funnel and place that in the pump, and then start the engine and while someone is turning the wheel back and forth, I pour in a gallon of fluid into the funnel and the fluid overflows out of the opening in the pump. I waste about three quarts but so what, the system gets flushed and no messing with the hoses. Then wash engine with a garden hose. Done in 15 minutes.
Thanks! I need to do this complete power steering flush to my 2002 Ford Ranger with 172,000 miles. Doing good preventative maintenance like this keeps my truck on the road. I'll watch this again. Thumbs up guy!
Fluid passes thru the pump even if it’s not pumping. The vanes don’t ride against the outside of the pump housing. There is still space between the pump vanes and the housing, so fluid has room to pass. moving the steering rack by hand flushes the old stuff out of the rack which gets replaced by fluid in the reservoir.
All I did was suction the old oil from the reservoir and put new oil back in, recirculate it and do it again about 4 to 5 times and the whole system has brand new power steering fluid now....much easier
I use a Costco Head and Shoulders bottle. The large container has a long dip tube great for getting into tight spaces. Stick the tube in and pump the fluid into the container. You do not get all the fluid but if you do it when you are checking the fluids you are good, with out the possible mess. Check to be sure you are using the right fluid, not one size fits all. On my Jeep I put a flash light over the the fill hole to be able to check the level in the translucent plastic reservoir. The Ford has a plastic rib at the fill line.
Fyi, we're not all guys! Some of us are gals. Very nice video, though. I like the way you flush the system without turning the engine on. That is so much more controlled and better for the pump. When the pump runs empty under power it doesn't take much for bad things to happen.
I'd say it would have been easier to let the fluid in the low pressure side of the pump drain out using the tube into the drain pan to catch it before starting the flush. Then plug it off and refill with fresh fluid. Then start flushing the system. That way the contaminated fluid would be out of the reservor and you're starting the flush with clean fluid at the reservor.
IM CERTAINLY A NON MECHANIC MYSELF, BUT I WOULD TAKE IT A STEP FURTHER, & START BY USING A TURKEY BASTER TO COMPLETELY EMPTY RESVOIR & THEN PICK UP WHERE YOU SUGGESTED, & THAT'S MY NON MECHANICAL 2 CENTS WORTH OF ADVICE
Great video and very helpful! So clever and much cleaner and easier than other videos I’ve seen. Also, Thank You for Amazon links to vinyl tubing and hose barb so I know what diameter to get.
I just want to caution anyone doing this.. some return lines connect to a PLASTIC nipple on the power steering reservoir. Depending on the age of your vehicle the rubber hose can be siezed onto this plastic nipple. Guess what happens when you try and wrench it off of there? The plastic nipple will bust off and you'll up a shit creek without a paddle. If you have a plastic return end that your low pressure hose is connected to, you are better off to slice the hose off with a razor blade. Then slice the remaining little piece of hose on the plastic nipple, *length wise* and peel it off.. then you can continue your flush. Take it from someone who has done this before and had their nipple break off!
Power Steering reservoirs on some vehicles are plastic. When you disconnect the smaller supply side hose(not the larger pressure hose) it may break off. Even if it doesn’t you may have a bigger problem. These reservoirs have filters in them to clean any particles in the ps fluid. These filters get plugged from dirty or burnt ps fluid. This can restrict fluid to the ps pump. I bought a new reservoir with a clean filter and I will replace my old reservoir with a new one when I use this method (excellent idea 💡 by the way ) to flush my ps system. I recollect $30 for a new res but I figure it is worth it to help my ps pump last longer.
to make it easier to understand, i would recommend saying what the "return line" goes from and goes to. sometimes this gets confusing. just saying phrases to newbies isn't going to cut the cake.
New to your channel. 👍👍👍 Thx for posting. You make this look so easy. Now I need to get to work and flush my 97 and 99 cars. They need a little TLC. I need to check your channel for a brake fluid change too.
YOU SHOULD HAVE SUCKED OUT THE FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR FIRST! That way it wouldn't have gushed out all over the place when you tried to put the plug on!
@@MindsDozer There would be no air bubbles because they would be all sucked out and evacuated once the newly added fluid finally hits the drain pan. What do you mean by the "soft side"?? There is a supply line and a return line...never heard of soft side line. Is that the soft clear tube bleeding hose?
@@MindsDozer Ok so you mean use kink clamp on the soft line before disconnecting from the reservoir, then connect the clear bleeder tube hose to the end of same soft line after the clamp, then release the kink clamp to drain the old fluid to reduce air bubbles?
I would have drained the reservoir first by not connecting the the crimped hose, then I would have filled the tank, if air was introduced in the system it can be easily removed by turning the wheels
I wonder if you can do this with a 2000 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. This car was given to me by my cousin. It was my cousin's father's Camry. I think what needs to be changed is power steering fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze for this Camry.
The beginning step, before anything else, should be, remove the old fluid with a turkey baster, or big syringe from the auto parts store, and put new fluid in the reservoir. Then start the process.
Canadian kid to bleed the system, keep cap loose, engine running, and turn steering wheel from lock to lock. don’t hold it locked on either side for more than a second or the cap might fly off. just keep doing this until the whining goes away
@@fromstarlighttosunrise128 I changed rack and pinion steering unit, everything all new front end parts on a 2001 Exp Sport Trac, lots of work, shop wanted $1.800 dollars 😲 THANKS 👍
Power steering systems are self bleeding, you simply turn the wheel lock to lock several times, top off the reservoir and the system will be bleed of air pockets. Put a few miles on the vehicle then top off again if necessary. You will be good to go after doing this.
Those funnels that exact size are now sold in see thru plastic. I like being able to see my pour. Use it on power steering refills (mine leaks) and fuel pours, mixing 2 cycle oil n fuel etc..
I took my hair shampoo pump and extracted the steering fluid from the reservoir then filled it up. I drove the car around the block and repeated that about four times till the fluid became nice and clear. I removed and added about two quarts before it came clear. Works great.
One tip to make the process go faster. After everything is set up but before you start turning the wheel, go back to the plug on the pump reservoir and empty the old fluid out. Once empty, refill the reservoir with new fluid. What this does is makes it so you are not pumping more nasty fluid from the reservoir through the system than you need to. Saves you some time.
I was going to write the same thing!
Wont there BE Air Trapped in the Plug then ?
@@larsbaer3508 its the return line, so no. The fluid moves to the reservoir in that direction so the small bit of air would be forced into the reservoir.
@@TheFrenchy47 then IT should Work , awesome
This is in case your not changing the reservoir as well
Retired military mechanic and currently a school bus mechanic. This is a good video. Clear, to the point and effective. Most people are good about changing their oil but never change the other fluids. Power steering, antifreeze, transmission, differential, and brakes. All these fluids have shelf lives and eventually need replacing guys.
Diff fluid?
...and Differential fluid too (eventually)!
@@chriscal8201 really?
my old BMW claimed to have lifetime transmission fluid. I never changed it because I saw people saying the gears get worn down and those tiny pieces of metal accumulate in the fluid. Apparently it doesn't hurt the system and actually helps prevent slipping as those gears wear down. Could that be true?
@@AcroIsTrash-en3ux literally no such thing as "lifetime fluid" that is marketing nonsense.
Well lucky for me my power steering fluid changes itself. It simply drains all down the tie rods for a few months then i just fill it back up again.
Bahahahaha!!
leaky engines are the best rust preventative. hahahahaaha
Like my vehicles: "If there ain't any oil under 'em. There ain't any oil in 'em."
@@garylangley4502 I had an old Caprice Classic like that once it leaked about a quart of engine oil a week, I kinda considered it self changing at that point, so I'd just throw a new filter on every few months and just keep adding oil. Still ran 2 years later, drove it to the junk yard all rotted out in the back.
@@veteranheavyequipmechanic4990 I had a friend that had a 1963 Chevrolet pickup truck that leaked and burned a quart of oil every 75 miles. I had a fairly new Jeep Cherokee, and a 1926 Model T Ford. I drove the Model T every weekend and the Cherokee was my daily driver, so I changed the oil in both cars frequently. I would just give him the old oil, which was still fairly clean, for his truck.
1ROAD, as an expert your word is your bond to your audience. Clickbaiting is a sure way to instill unnecessary doubt of sincerity and brings question as to how you go about obtaining viewers attention. The title implies teaching mistake avoidance but no mistakes were mentioned. Consider the title “My BEST but little known method of swapping power steering fluid” You may or may not get the same viewing stats but you won’t be eroding the faith in you with those that really want to have it.
Awesome video! One FYI; When pouring liquid out of a bottle shaped like the one in this video, always pour with the spout at the top of the bottle , not at the bottom of the bottle(like in this video). If you pour with the spout at the top of the bottle, the liquid will flow out a HELLUVA lot better and you’ll have better control over pouring it so that you don’t spill all over the place….It works.
Even holding the bottle sideways is better than spout at bottom.
I'm a retired mechanic and teacher with over 40 years in the repair business. You did a great job. Same way I used to do it. Thanks for sharing.
Replacing ATF with hydraulic fluid? You did a great job, 40+ you say? How?
Edit: I guess I'll just yard all the ATF out of my 4L60e and put hydraulic fluid in it, it'll be okay right?
@Ozmiander
Correct to an extent.. they serve the same purpose but are two totally different chemicals. That's like saying a ATF and brake fluid are the same thing.
@Ozmiander yep that's why you read the bottle before using it usually tells you if it is safe to use in replacement of another fluid
Everyone's assuming it was ATF that came out of there simply because it was dark. It could just as well have been really old PS Fluid too.
@@wansolve2036 The red tint is a very recognizable dye. The ATF actually has friction modifiers that DO make a difference. Subaru is a great example of this. Here is a link to their (overpriced) product. Read it's description www.subaruexpress.com/p/Subaru__Forester/Automatic-Transmission-HPPower-Steering-Fluid/49506082/SOA427V1500.html
I recommend keeping the cap on the reservoir before plugging the return line. The suction might help prevent to much spillage.
Hear, Hear! i just mention that. - 3 years late. lol
NICE. LOGICAL.TIP !
@@kareno8634 Now "hear this" I may not scroll through 3 years of comments😛
@@andybilakshow260 lol Well, what can i say. Cheers!
As a mechanic I wanted to HATE this video so much when I clicked on it! After seeing this method work I got NOTHING. Good job dude!
@Mr Hansen man he wanted to hate it because he didn't know what the author meant. But by seeing it he could not say anything wrong therefore he things it's the best way too.
Why did you click on it. As a pro do you really need to see baba in his garage dyi. Ask all data or snap on if they have therpy available. Sure it will be the most expensive but I could save your career.
@@capedoryus alldata is trash and snap on can go duck themselfs beleave me when i say neither of those companies with make or break your career. And if they do then you need to find somthing else to do with your life because your neither smart or creative enough to be a mechanic. 90 percent of proplems can discoverd with a ohm meter and a test light. The other 10 can solved with a google search
@@capedoryus I am , a journeyman diesel/heavy equipment tech and your premise is not only simply wrong , it is entirely incorrect.
If you really do feel that Alldata or Snap On plays that big of a part in the career field of vehicle repair , then you need to step away from ever, picking up even so much as a pair of pliers.
Unfortunately simple mechanical physics is not your thing and that helps keep people like Matt Fowlerr and myself, employed in repairing mistakes shade tree mechanics tend to repeat on a consistent basis.
I may point out also that, your syntax, in either print , or in verbal application is sorely lacking.
At least one semester in technical writing would do you, a world of good. Probably two in your case, which equates to about 16 weeks or, 4 months.
Good luck in your next career field endeavor.
My power steering was self flushing. The routine before I started was check the level. Add fluid. Drive till it started whining. Refill it.
After a while I saved up enough to change the rack and pinion. Even had enough fluid left in the gallon jug to give to the mechanic to refill the system. It got almost 100 miles to a gallon of fluid.
The old Envoy was like a old Harley and Hansel & Gretel before the rack and pinion got replaced. It also made the frame and the rest of the chassis rust proof for a while.
Did not do the steering system bushings much good. Ended up replacing those too. It was just a bit possible those were tired anyway. 200,000 miles will do that.
Well lucky for me I have a leak somewhere in my power steering so I just keep the revivor topped up and I never need to flush it
Me too haha
Careful power steering fluid is like transmission fluid it will catch fire on a hot exhaust
Huh. You must be a fellow Dodge owner.
Power steering leaks are the best ones to have! When driving the air coming by helps distribute the power steering fluid onto every surface under your vehicle. Think of it as your vehicle doing its own active rust prevention.
And people like you are part of the problem why our oceans are dying. If you can't maintain it, you should be able to have it done. I, myself, am totally Pro when it comes to Fossil Fuels, but in the end, people with your thinking are why the Masses think Green Energy is the Solution when it's your polluting ass that needs the cleaning. Green & Fossil is what has evolved thru the ages, Nuclear in its beginning, the 1950s had a learning curve too. Fortunately, with all the outcry, Research has never stopped, and most folks think it is dead as fossil fuels. When green proves it's not a 24/7 energy source, Nuclear will. We don't need Power Plants the size of Rhode Island or Yakima creating 3 Mile Island, no - Nuclear energy is being miniaturised like everything else, will be self contained and provide Power not like batteries we will always be throwing away filling garbage dumps. Think of a car's motor being replaced by a nuclear reactor that is a fraction of the size, out performes gas & electric, negligible pollution compared to our options now, and about every 20 years, you replace it with a new one. Same power output on its last day as it had on its first, without adding or exchanging- throwing away the crap like we do now. I can't say when, but when the masses realize solar, wind & batteries aren't the anwser, nuclear isn't the Shark in the water to destroy our world, a little education to the young who don't even know or remember the past will be accepted as the New Technology for the future.
@@dirkfrazier4086 LOL it came from the earth it will return to the earth
I did my 100 series land cruiser power steering last month after watching your video and it worked a treat. Jacked up the front wheels, engine off, full lock to full lock. Perfect.
Many thanks from Australia.
It's so nice to see a how to video from someone that actually knows what they are doing and can clearly convey the information without wasting a bunch of time describing obvious things. Also good clean camera work and editing. Thanks!
His way is only one way of doing it, and it is the hard way to do it.
I found the site by exploring utube. I have a 1967 GTO. With no history of it,I decided to change all hoses & fluids. This video was GREAT ! Thank you ,
Kevin
This is why its SO IMPORTANT to develop leaks in your vehicle, so you're always refilling the systems in your vehicle so you don't have to go through all this trouble. #lifehacks
Well, my E39 has done a Oil change on the fly. Drive, fill every 1.000km half a Liter in and there you go. :D
Now all leaks are away and I must return to the normal way of changing the Oil. :D
I agree, used to have an old Toyota that just wouldn't die. It burned about a quart of oil every couple of weeks and I just kept topping it off and changing the filter once in a while. Loved that car...
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
You dont want gas leaks,lol
You get free oil undercoating as well. 8^>
Just a little tip to maybe save a little fluid and time. Drain the reservoir, then plug it, refill the reservoir with fresh fluid, then start your flush procedure. Or use a baster to remove the old fluid. Why top of the reservoir with new fluid and mix it in with the old fluid? Good video though. Good advice.
Great video. Note: Some viewers may not know that using a simple yardstick or long screwdriver to find the source of any noises works great. Place one end on any suspected component and the other end to your ear. When you hear the whine, you've found your culprit.
got me looking like a doc on my car lmao. Ghetto stethiscope.
@@diabolicjackel8905 Did it work for you?
I took my car to the mechanic because my power steering was leaking and was making a whining noise. I got the car back from the mechanic he fixed the leak but the van was still making a little noise he told me that is air and should go away in a couple days it's been a week and the van is making a loud whining sound all the time now! Can I fix this problem myself by doing a flush? Or is something else wrong with the car? I'm very upset right now.
@@Lukie2131 Usually, the whining sound is from a lack of fluid. That can cause damage to the pump. No big deal. If the pump has been refilled and still makes noise, that could be the problem. I would look to see if there are any after-market products to help or just ignore the sound. If you elect to replace the pump, that's fine too. Don't worry about it. It's not going to cause any other problems.
@@Lukie2131 Sounds like a worn out pump. What did you finally do to fix it?
Love you English - well spoken, loud and great verbal grammar - made it a lot easier to follow without rewinding back to hear again what someone said. Thanks
And not TOO loud, either.
Small tip: Instead of keep turning the steering wheel lock to lock you can turn the wheels by hand left and right when they are on the air, way much faster,at least if it's a system without much friction.
I just did my power steering pump. I found it easier to just vacuum pump the return line at 20 in HG. Its also helps if you vacuum pump the old fluid out of the reservoir first. Then you need to vacuum bleed the power steering afterwards. Otherwise it will whine and not last as long. New power steering pump had the instructions.
I am more than 5 decades auto diesel mechanic technician. Honestly I enjoyed watching your video.I consider you are professional mechanic.
The presentation was professional. No jerking camera moves! Most of these DIY videos get me dizzy from all the camera juggling. Not this one. Perfect and best I’ve seen. Glad to subscribe. Strong work! I’ll use your “no start”method.
Always feel like another Chevy guy is my friend. When he teaches me how to keep my Chevy going strong,... even better. Thanks Bud! 👍🏻😋
In case you missed it, Harbor Freight have a recall on them jack stands. Great video by the way
Depends on the part number. Make sure to check!
This video was made over a year ago
I was just gettin ready to say the same. Even tho this is a yr old video, its nice to see ppl pass on info that helps someone, maybe he doesnt have defective jack stands but i might not have known that..good job!
No wonder it broke and killed me 2 months ago. Shouldve known better. 🤦🤦♂️
Harbor FRIGHT.
Very well out together video, I enjoyed it. I do disagree with step 1 however. Step 1 should be to remove as much old fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster before you begin flushing, then jack up the front of the vehicle. Without removing the old fluid from the reservoir first, you are lengthening the amount of time needed to flush out the old fluid.
Other than this small issue, this is a great DIY for tech savvy people that may not know how a conventional power steering system works.
Isn't that just going to introduce air into the system and therefore take more time on the tail end of the process bleeding the bubbles out?
@@MrHawksley maybe replace old fluid with the new one in the reservoir as much as possible at the beginning so it takes shorter time for the new fluid to flush out the old?
The power steering system bleeds out air as you are turning the wheels from lock to lock. So when you are performing the flush, it also bleeds itself assuming there is enough new fluid in the reservoir
@@MrHawksley No, air is only going to be introduced if you turn the pump or steering wheel with no fluid in the reservoir. Empty reservoir of old fluid, fill with new, then flush...it will save time.
@@getsum697
Under normal circumstances. I was more wondering if air is getting in when the low pressure "plug" is attached and unattached. I guess if the system self bleeds it's not an issue.
Why do a lot of ppl hate on this guys videos so much? What is wrong with him? Because I don’t see a reason why I like his videos he’s actually doing everything at home with hand tools which is what most of us have at home he does a great job and explains his stuff way better then most TH-camrs
I couldn’t do it the way you did but I use a 100ml syringe with a long plastic tube attached to it. I sucked out as much as I could. Then did the same thing to 3 days later. The Steering did feel much better when I was done it was much smoother with no dead spots
Your original fluid seems to be the standard Dexron III ATF fluid which is a transmission based fluid for GMC vehicles. Manufactures are fairly clear on not switching power steering and brake fluid from the recommended. You may want to consider extracting the initial fluid from the reservoir before disconnecting the return line, then fill the reservoir with clean fluid before you turn the steering wheel from lock to lock and then keep topping up as you go like you mention.
Yes, the wrong fluid was added
I think there are two things here that you could improve in your method. Leave the cap on that will limit the flow of oil out of the tank. Have the drain hose ready to put on the tank instead.Take the cap off and finish draining the tank. Plug the tank. Next put the drain line in the return line. Turn the wheels lock to lock. You have eliminated 80% of the old fluid. Fill the tank and turn the wheels lock to lock, you should see clean fluid coming out almost immediately. I don't see any purpose in mixing old fluid with new any more than necessary, unless you just like to contaminate new fluid. You will use half or less of the new fluid to get the same result.
I was wondering this right as he pulled the line off the reservoir: wonder why did he do that? Good directions.
Can you make a video of this? I'm having trouble following your method.
@@livenfree Yeah I think I was a bit wordy there. Here is the jist of it. He plugs the drain line on the back of the tank IMMEDIATELY, because he is so worried about spilling fluid. Instead of plugging it why not just put the drain line (temporarily) directly on the back of the tank or reservoir as it is more commonly referred to? By leaving the cap on it will slow the flow out of the reservoir, and you will likely spill less. Remove the cap and allow the reservoir to drain completely. After it is completely drained THEN plug it. Next concentrate on the steering box or ram. Turn the wheels side to side and get as much fluid out as you can. Now you have eliminated as much of the old fluid as possible. At that point, I personally, would call it done and refill the system. However, you could refill the system and continue to turn the wheels back and forth an push new fluid through the system. The key is to empty the reservoir AND the steering box AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE, BEFORE adding any new fluid. By eliminating as much of the old fluid as possible, you avoid contaminating the new fluid as much as possible. Well that was pretty wordy too, but hopefully you get the point.
@michaeldose2041 mmm I think you made it worse 🤦🤣
@@neildeatherage2269 Just because you can't follow instructions doesn't make it worse. If you have something useful to say go ahead, otherwise STFU.
Tip: When pouring oil, put the spout on the high side... It does several things: 1) Allows air to enter the spout without gurgling 2) Allows the tip angle to be more horizontal before the flow starts 3) Easier to pour 4) Less spills
as somebody who sucks at this, just know you changed at least 1 persons life
Thanks!
This also applies to drinks stored in cartons where the cap is offset. I see a lot of people struggling with pouring milk, it's hilarious how they could so easily avoid that.
@@kahsta6343 In that case, here is another tip... Open a banana from the bottom end and it's easy, open a banana from the hanging end, and it's hard. ...and the stem becomes a nice little handle.
@@thetruthserum2816 im allergic to bananas. Also this comment genuinely changed my life i have to pour oil in my 99 si damn neae every day lmao
Informative video. Learned a bit on how to change the power steering fluid. Otherwise the old way with a turkey baster to remove the fluid out of the power steering pump with the vehicle running when turn the steering wheel all the way left and right a few times, back and forth. And keeping dumping power steering fluid til aren't able to make it any lighter than can.
I am a old guy, that being said ,most people have always said , If its not broke don't fix it, then they would only fix the hose or replace the pump then just add fluid,,, knucklheads,, like your vids, I have done this and the transmission trick a few times, they really freak when I tell them about
that. I also have altered a dip stick for them that I use a mighty vac to remove all the air, overkill I know, subscribed thanks
Thanks for the video. Flushing without engine/pump running is a correct way. Unfasten the flare fittings on the steel pipes going to the rack cylinder and do the same thing - steer from stop left to stop right few times. This will drain the old fluid almost to the last drop both from the rack and pump with hoses. Make sure do not over-tighten them back - I think they are about 15 ft. lb.
Thanks for the video. I have changed my oil, brake fluid and coolant and now the power steering fluid is next on the list. And if anyone asks what the whine is, don't tell them it's a dodgy alternator - it's a supercharger 😂
Thank you! I will try this next time I service my cars. What I have been doing from time to time is aspirating out the res and refilling it.... not every time I change the engine oil but sometimes. That is a partial fluid change over time. I like your approach.
Great video. What I do, what is not a real complete flush but it is easy to do, is to remove almost all old fluid from reservoir and replace with new one. Drive for a day or two and repeat procedure. And keep doing until go trough 2L of new fluid. Is not a complete flush because new fluid is mixing with old one but it is easy and always fluid look clear. After this, replace fluid in reservoir once at every 6 months so allways is there almost new fluid.
I used this process on a 97 Honda Accord after watching this video. This is THE WAY to get the job done!
It’s Satisfying watching the fluid go from dirty to clean. Great and informative video. That’s the number one over looked fluid that needs to be changed regularly. Thanks 🙏
D S
I’ve always just done the slower method, where I’ll buy a litre bottle of fluid and each day when I get home from work I’ll syringe the fluid out of the reservoir and refill the reservoir. I’ll do this each day when I get home from work until the litre bottle is used up. Then a few months later I’ll do it again. Always keeping the fluid bright red for life. Won’t prevent a leak from developing in your power steering down the track, but will go a long way to keeping the pump in perfect working order.
Leave the cap on the reservoir and you won spill so much next time. It was a cool video.
Jacob Ramirez that cap is not air tight.
Not to mention that the reservoir has a substantial air pocket.
Can't possibly help much.
@@hulaganz you might think its not air tight bit it sort of is. it does not let air in that is why when you take you PS cap off there is usually a "sucking" sound the cap is designed to let low pressure out (because the fluid expands as it gets hot) but not take air in(as the fluid cools it shrinks in volume causing a slight vacuum) . Jacob is 100% right. leave the cap on and you wont spill very much fluid at all.
i should also say if you are gonna do this job while the fluids/lines are hot(your crazy) take the cap off to release the pressure then put the cap back on... if you don't do this and just leave the cap on its gonna shoot hot fluid everywhere like a fire hose.
I just shove an old plastic yoghurt tub underneath to catch all the spillage. You probably *want* as much to drain out as possible; or use an old turkey baster to suck out all the old fluid.
Leaving the cap on when bleed can turn the seals on master cylinder dont do it !!! Especially if using a one fed off the tyre or a pump
Thanks for sharing your technique. It apparently has worked well in all 3 cases, so will give it a go on my next steering fluid change. Great narration and clear instructions, upload more videos.
Thank you! Hope it works well for you!!
I run 10k Service intervals on ALL my vehicles. modern oils can easily handle it. Every 10k i do oilchange, suck out and replace powersteering, drain and fill Tranny (no filter) drain and fill both diffs, and t-case if it has one) Every 30K, I add a filter change to the transmission, and a drain and fill on the coolant. The fluid stays pretty clean always doing this, and any contamination is removed practically immediately so it doesnt sit there and wear on components for 10s of thousands of miles. Especially important with the diffs and trannies since they use clutches.
Absolutely FASCINATING and informative. I'm thinking most DIY'ers mainly focus on just changing engine oil. But, there are other oils in the vehicle in the tranny and power steering assembly. They all need new fluids to keep seals soft and sealing and systems functioning properly. People like you take the mystery out of working on those systems and help us to keep rolling along. Many thanks.
I would also add in an aftermarket power steering fluid filter (available from the usual on line companies) that's installed in the low pressure line by cutting out enough of the straight section of the to accommodate the added length of the filter and barb fittings. Just make sure to check the inside diameter of your return line so you can get the propeer size filter kit. The jury is still out on the filter I put on my '00 Tundra V-8 system, but for no more that the filter kit costs, why not?? I've always used the running motor method to do the flushing, but will give this a try next time. Thank you for the educational video sir!!
Well, it's cool that this can be done alone without making a mess. My preferred method is to do the same thing but with two people and the engine running to really push the fluid through. The last one I did, I flushed 5 quarts through because I had a bunch of ATF on hand that I got super cheap.
Yes, you can use ATF for power steering fluid in most vehicles, and many even specify it.
Yeah the “not clear” fluid in the vid made me scratch my head since it was supposed to have atf
this is such a great method, I am going to start selling more PS flushes now because of you. THANKS!
ATF // automatic transmission fluid is recomended by the service manual ?? yes // Ford mercon 5....
Hard to believe there were some thumbs down. I’m gonna guess they were mechanics that just charged someone $100 for the same thing. Don’t hate I’ve worked in shops for a few decades and that’s just business BUT a clear east to follow video showing how easy it is and anyone with any mechanical skills certainly can perform the same task. I say great video bud thanks for sharing I’ll be checking your others out. You learn something new every day if not you didn’t pay attention!!👍🏻👍🏻
Great informative video. ONE Suggestion: Please tell us how many Power Steering Pints gave up their life in the flushing of the system. Helps us recruit the right number of Pints to proceed.
Pouring bottles with an offset spout as indicated in the picture on the side, or with the spout on the higher side of the bottle makes it easier to pour. Also having the funnel with the extended part at the bottom to help catch more fluid works too. Or...cover the opening with 2 fingers and slowly lift your fingers when the bottle is tilted to control the flow.
I can see this channel grow to 5 millions subscribers in about a year or two. This guy is as awesome as other mechanic legends like Scotty Kilmer, CCN, wizard or Chris Fix.
scotty is mostly bubbling hot air, this right here is useful information
Great video. Thanks so much for posting it
I evacuate / refresh power steering reservoir every oil change - car has 482,000 miles - still runs great.
This reminds me of a situation a few years ago regarding flushing brake fluid. I was visiting my mother and I lived many miles from her. Each time I visited I would check her car for proper fluid levels etc. Once while visiting for a weekend I noticed that the brake fluid had become dark and needed flushed, and advised her to take it in to the dealer. When she told the service manager this he told her that he had never heard of changing brake fluid. (Gives you a lot of confidence on this dealers service manager.). So my brother in law did it for her.
You generally don't. When you get your brakes serviced, they bleed the lines. They are supposed to bleed until fluid is clear, and top off the brake fluid levels while doing it.
@@rickw4160 there's no reason to bleed brakes on a brake service unless you're replacing a broken line
Your not doing yourself or your customer any service by just jamming the piston back in and calling it a day. The fluid absorbs water. The necessity of having it changed can be debated, but figuring most brakes last 30-50k generally translates to 3-5 years. Ps pump fluid changes aren't even a thing, not part of a regular change interval. Yet here we are!!!!
Historically changing (flushing and replacing) brake fluid was not part of the recommended maintenance for most automotive products. Fluid was changed only if and when the system was opened up to do a repair. However, that has recently changed for many manufacturers, and many include changing brake fluid every X number of years (Ford for instance is 3 years) in their scheduled maintenance requirements.
@@gcraig0001 I read in my manual that brake fluid over time becomes caustic & will damage brake lines & seals in the caliper.
Very nicely done. Right level of detail, and to the point without a lot of extra banter or expletives some others seem to need to offer. And good quality on the video. Many thanks.
Thanks for adding the part about putting a plug over the return line inlet. That's important. Don't ask me how I know that.
Thank you. Getting prepped to do this for a 2011 Subaru Forester. I think the pump is bad. One's on order. Rebuild. This process is similar to what I did about 5 years ago to bleed the brakes on my Ford F-250. I learned there to start the engine for the brake vac assist!
Was going to mention that. Glad you did.
REMEMBER: not all vehicles use power steering fluid for the power steering system. My '96 BMW Z3 takes ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) instead. It may say right on the reservoir cap, or your might have to consult your owner's manual. Just remember to check for your specific vehicle!
P/S fluid and ATF is interchangable
ATF and power steering fluid are the same except that power steering fluid normally has more anti foaming agent than ATF.
Right? mine doesn't even have power steering at all
@@Destilight Will make this job so much harder for you mate. I think having a power steering system on you car maybe a prerequisite for this task??????😅
finding the correct PS fluid for an 07 Mazda was a nightmare. Some sources said mineral oil based, some said ATF fluid, and some said Type III, etc.. I still don't know what kind the OEM specifies...
Excellent. I learnt more about mechanics from your videos than I ever did in my whole life from others. Well done.
Except that hes not a mechanic and most of the information here couldnt help others and people will most likely end up breakimg their cars somehow.
Actually that fluid you are pumping out doesn’t look bad at all. From the beginning you can see light through it. GM for many years used Dextron Transmission fluid in the Power Steering Pump Reservoir and I believe the reason it may seem dark to you. I see the PowerSteering Fluid you purchased is clear. In the past all power steering fluid looked like Trans Fluid and probably was what came in the bottle labeled Power Steering Fluid. Believe it or not Transmission Fluid starts out clear until they add the dye. I tell you this based on the fact I was in the Auto Parts business 38 years as a owner of a Carquest Auto Parts Store and Auto Parts WD now retired. You surely didn’t hurt anything by changing it but I would of left it alone and reattached the hose and just topped the reservoir off with new fluid. Nice job on the video by the way.
I was thinking the same thing. On my 1996 Toyota 4Runner it uses Dextron ATF as power steering fluid too.
THANKYOU. I thought I was going crazy here
in my country they don't even sell "power steering fluid" if you ask for it in auto parts store they give you just regular ATF. But on some old Mercedes those use hydraulic fluid on power steering.
“Power steering fluid” is just a marketing thing
@@MoparMadness93 No, it's not. Ask any Honda owner, you MUST use Honda specific fluid. Also, most European cars use Pentosin hydraulic fluid. I've been in the parts business for almost 37 years, we currently stock 8 different types of ATF and at least 5 types of power steering fluid. 20 years ago these attitudes would have been accurate. I also think that fluid was due to be changed, it started out pink or clear, not coffee brown.
Excellent video 1 Road...🙂🙂🙂 thanks a lot...keep up the good work and remember that God loves you! 🙂🙂🙂
Thank you. 3:38 Why not drain the reservoir and refill and then place the plug on?
Ive been changing power steering fluid and "flushing" trans fluid under power... This is a great method alot like bleeding brakes... Thanks for posting.
Great video, I liked seeing the fluid move as the wheels turn. I just did this for my 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee with 147,000 miles on the clock. The fluid looked like old black motor oil and had obviously never been flushed before. Hopefully this will add some life to the power steering pump. Pretty easy once you have the right size clear hose and splice fitting. Thanks for the video.
It’s better to put the plug back in and turn the steering wheel lock to lock a couple of times to release any trapped air bubbles before starting the car. Great video!!
He clearly stated that he had done that, prior to starting it up at the end...
Nate Weishalla ohhh I didn’t see that. My fault lol. It’s fairly important to show it though
Agreed. It should have been shown.
On the vehicle in this video I have a simple way. I place a large shallow pan under the vehicle, and then take a long skinny neck funnel and place that in the pump, and then start the engine and while someone is turning the wheel back and forth, I pour in a gallon of fluid into the funnel and the fluid overflows out of the opening in the pump. I waste about three quarts but so what, the system gets flushed and no messing with the hoses. Then wash engine with a garden hose. Done in 15 minutes.
Thanks! I need to do this complete power steering flush to my 2002 Ford Ranger with 172,000 miles. Doing good preventative maintenance like this keeps my truck on the road. I'll watch this again. Thumbs up guy!
That’s good to know. I can’t figure out why it works without the pump spinning. Is it creating a vacuum or suction somehow?
Fluid passes thru the pump even if it’s not pumping. The vanes don’t ride against the outside of the pump housing. There is still space between the pump vanes and the housing, so fluid has room to pass. moving the steering rack by hand flushes the old stuff out of the rack which gets replaced by fluid in the reservoir.
@@Manualtrdtacoma Thanks for the reply.
By turning the steering lock to lock, the rack and pinion act like a pump to get the old hydraulic fluids out?
@@diegosilang4823 this isn’t a rack and pinion though. I don’t think it matters if Saginaw or rack and pinion it still works as he showed here.
All I did was suction the old oil from the reservoir and put new oil back in, recirculate it and do it again about 4 to 5 times and the whole system has brand new power steering fluid now....much easier
Actually, you just have diluted, mixed fluid and use 4 x more than necessary to do a true flush
That pickup is ridiculously clean, why can't all my customers have vehicles like this?
You live up north?
I use a Costco Head and Shoulders bottle. The large container has a long dip tube great for getting into tight spaces. Stick the tube in and pump the fluid into the container. You do not get all the fluid but if you do it when you are checking the fluids you are good, with out the possible mess. Check to be sure you are using the right fluid, not one size fits all. On my Jeep I put a flash light over the the fill hole to be able to check the level in the translucent plastic reservoir. The Ford has a plastic rib at the fill line.
Fyi, we're not all guys! Some of us are gals. Very nice video, though. I like the way you flush the system without turning the engine on. That is so much more controlled and better for the pump. When the pump runs empty under power it doesn't take much for bad things to happen.
I'm just jealous of how nice of shape your 95 burb is in.
That ‘burban is super clean!
Ryan Bitter yeah that’s a gorgeous old suburban. Don’t see that in Michigan here
Noticed the same of his other vehicles as well as his garage. Wonder if he's a Leo (my wife claims "anal-retentive") like me :)
This helped me to flush power steering oil in my Infiniti G35 2005 model! Thank you!
I just replaced my power steering cooler and didn't do this, glad you posted this now I can do it correctly !
Thanks for not presenting with stress-inducing Scotty Kilmer style.
by the way a lot of cars, especially fords, require atf for power steering fluid so be sure to check your manual.
I'd say it would have been easier to let the fluid in the low pressure side of the pump drain out using the tube into the drain pan to catch it before starting the flush. Then plug it off and refill with fresh fluid. Then start flushing the system. That way the contaminated fluid would be out of the reservor and you're starting the flush with clean fluid at the reservor.
You should make a video showing how to do it right!
@@denisschneider5941 yes, start by draining the reservoir completely.
I agree with Denis,, I think a video of the method your talking about would be awesome,,or a more detailed explanation would help for us non mechanics
IM CERTAINLY A NON MECHANIC MYSELF, BUT I WOULD TAKE IT A STEP FURTHER, & START BY USING A TURKEY BASTER TO COMPLETELY EMPTY RESVOIR & THEN PICK UP WHERE YOU SUGGESTED, & THAT'S MY NON MECHANICAL 2 CENTS WORTH OF ADVICE
@@donaldmarkham440 That would work too.
Great video and very helpful! So clever and much cleaner and easier than other videos I’ve seen. Also, Thank You for Amazon links to vinyl tubing and hose barb so I know what diameter to get.
YOU DA MAN! Over a million views! You should be awarded a merit badge is Steering Fluid Flushing! KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!
Is it not necessary to crank the engine over to get the fluid out of the pump itself and not just the steering rack/box?
I learned something new-thank you!
I just want to caution anyone doing this.. some return lines connect to a PLASTIC nipple on the power steering reservoir. Depending on the age of your vehicle the rubber hose can be siezed onto this plastic nipple.
Guess what happens when you try and wrench it off of there? The plastic nipple will bust off and you'll up a shit creek without a paddle.
If you have a plastic return end that your low pressure hose is connected to, you are better off to slice the hose off with a razor blade. Then slice the remaining little piece of hose on the plastic nipple, *length wise* and peel it off.. then you can continue your flush.
Take it from someone who has done this before and had their nipple break off!
use a hair dryer to soften it ;)
You said nipple.
I hate when I break my nipples off 🤪
Hose barb. A nipple is a section of pipe 12" or less. And yes I said nipple too.
Power Steering reservoirs on some vehicles are plastic. When you disconnect the smaller supply side hose(not the larger pressure hose) it may break off. Even if it doesn’t you may have a bigger problem. These reservoirs have filters in them to clean any particles in the ps fluid. These filters get plugged from dirty or burnt ps fluid. This can restrict fluid to the ps pump. I bought a new reservoir with a clean filter and I will replace my old reservoir with a new one when I use this method (excellent idea 💡 by the way ) to flush my ps system. I recollect $30 for a new res but I figure it is worth it to help my ps pump last longer.
You said “bar none” and “going out on a limb” I’m interested!
to make it easier to understand, i would recommend saying what the "return line" goes from and goes to. sometimes this gets confusing. just saying phrases to newbies isn't going to cut the cake.
A there it is the way to do the power steering fluid in one easy lesson. Good man, thanks.
OMG the recalled Harbor Freight jack stands! lucky that was not the last video you ever made.
Funny you say that. I just broke mine when I lowered my car on one. It's like a 15 year old harbor freight stand too
That's the last thing in the world I'd buy from harbor freight is Jack stands! It's like buying an extension cord or safety glasses. Buy good tools!
@@maxpower9848 they probably have really good ones now after the recall lol.
New to your channel. 👍👍👍 Thx for posting. You make this look so easy. Now I need to get to work and flush my 97 and 99 cars. They need a little TLC. I need to check your channel for a brake fluid change too.
YOU SHOULD HAVE SUCKED OUT THE FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR FIRST! That way it wouldn't have gushed out all over the place when you tried to put the plug on!
Not if you're trying to keep air bubbles out of the system. Use a kink clamp to keep the soft side from bleeding.
@@MindsDozer There would be no air bubbles because they would be all sucked out and evacuated once the newly added fluid finally hits the drain pan. What do you mean by the "soft side"?? There is a supply line and a return line...never heard of soft side line. Is that the soft clear tube bleeding hose?
I just mean the rubber hose on the return line as opposed to the metal tube
@@MindsDozer Ok so you mean use kink clamp on the soft line before disconnecting from the reservoir, then connect the clear bleeder tube hose to the end of same soft line after the clamp, then release the kink clamp to drain the old fluid to reduce air bubbles?
I would have drained the reservoir first by not connecting the the crimped hose, then I would have filled the tank, if air was introduced in the system it can be easily removed by turning the wheels
Of all the video I have seen about flushing the power steering fluid, this is the best of them all...
I wonder if you can do this with a 2000 Toyota Camry LE 4 cylinder. This car was given to me by my cousin. It was my cousin's father's Camry. I think what needs to be changed is power steering fluid, brake fluid, and antifreeze for this Camry.
Great this will save me $89 at the shop!
The beginning step, before anything else, should be, remove the old fluid with a turkey baster, or big syringe from the auto parts store, and put new fluid in the reservoir. Then start the process.
I like this idea
Great video! So great in fact, that I'm going to watch you do it 2 more times!
Thanks for this video. I used your method to get the fluid changed in my Volvo in 10 minutes. Appreciate this a lot.
Saturday night and I am sure enjoying your videos.
You look exactly like that FBI agent from the show ozarks on Netflix 😂
no joke, he sure does!
Hahahaha fuck dude, I fucking wondered why he looked so familiar.
Hahaha 😄 spot on
In other words nigga u gay?
Q - I changed the rack and pinion steering gear so must have some air in system, Dose this help also to get the air out ? THANKS
Canadian kid to bleed the system, keep cap loose, engine running, and turn steering wheel from lock to lock. don’t hold it locked on either side for more than a second or the cap might fly off. just keep doing this until the whining goes away
@@fromstarlighttosunrise128 I changed rack and pinion steering unit, everything all new front end parts on a 2001 Exp Sport Trac, lots of work, shop wanted $1.800 dollars 😲 THANKS 👍
Power steering systems are self bleeding, you simply turn the wheel lock to lock several times, top off the reservoir and the system will be bleed of air pockets. Put a few miles on the vehicle then top off again if necessary. You will be good to go after doing this.
@@elcaminosunlimited THANKS for the reply, will do this .....👍🇺🇸
Lots of revs helped my car
There is a reason for the shape of the blue funnel your using. Turn it around 180degrees so it catches your poor easier.
Those funnels that exact size are now sold in see thru plastic. I like being able to see my pour. Use it on power steering refills (mine leaks) and fuel pours, mixing 2 cycle oil n fuel etc..
@@JamesThompson-ol3eu Very cool. Half of the time I use one I'm under the truck with the funnel almost too horizontal. Clear would be awesome.
Extremely clever turning the steering wheel with the engine OFF. Im going to do mine this way. What a great video. Thank you.
I took my hair shampoo pump and extracted the steering fluid from the reservoir then filled it up. I drove the car around the block and repeated that about four times till the fluid became nice and clear. I removed and added about two quarts before it came clear. Works great.
6:07 bro you might want to top up your brake fluid reservoir and maybe check your brake linings and/or pads