@@ericthecarguy It really helps. Because it gives us insight into the thought process of diagnosis and problem-solving. It's a better education than simply being shown how to fix things. Now we undeerstand a lot more about how and why the system works.
Toto Wolff From Mercedes F1 says something along the lines of "We rarely learn anything from winning". Loved this video. Every job i've ever been at, the problem folks were always the ones that would not admit to their mistakes. I've seen a software developer almost get punched out by a mail room manager over this lol.
I like that you show your failures. It's relatable and a teachable moment. I imagine it helps thousands do the repairs the right way without common failures
A long video? Yes. But showing us all the trials and tribulations of automotive diagnosis is also very valuable. I'm glad Eric showed it all in this case.
That IS a win! Love the diagnostics, thanks for showing all of your steps--you could have edited out the dead ends you went down...but dead ends are learning opportunities for us!
Interesting fact...my dad was the lead designer of the non-synchronous machining line that made the Power Steering pumps for Saginaw. That line cost (at the time) about $21M USD to design, build and install. It may be the same line still machining those raw castings as that part of the PS Pump really hasn't changed in 30+ years. The machine was running last I knew (about 10 years ago), so there is good change those pumps you have there were machined by the machine my dad designed. Love that stuff...
Even a great mechanic can be stumped from time to time. And i thought one valve looked a little bigger than the other but I thought maybe it was just me. This video is a good reminder to always look at the easy stuff first then work towards the hardest
I just like that you show us your failures and your triumphs. It's a good reminder that you never stop learning and it is good to try new things. Thanks
Heads up when using those infrared thermometers, especially cheap ones is that, the farther from the gun the bigger the area it reads from. At a few feet away its like a 3" circle, not just what the laser dot is pointing at.
Eric, what a terribly convenient time for me for you to do this video. I have an 86 Jeep Comanche with saginaw pump like you. I've had nothing but issues with them. My first pump died after having it for four years. Throughout the years it always made noise, but I could never get the air fully out of the system. It finally (violently) gave up last summer. Then the adventure started on replacing the pump. The first pump I ordered didn't come with a reservoir. I definitely ordered one with a reservoir, but it took 2 weeks to get and I was tired of waiting.So I had to use my old (kinda crummy) reservoir with the new pump. Problem was, the pump was not sealing to the reservoir housing. So I thought my old reservoir was out of round. Took it all apart again, tried using a thicker seal from a different pump. No luck, however. Turns out the *new* pump wasn't round at all. It was 5mm out of round. So I had to order a new one. Another 2 weeks went by. Finally got it, installed it, seemed to work. Five minutes after installing, my high pressure line developed a pinhole and shot fluid everywhere. Then I had to get a new high pressure line for it. Took another week to get in. Was driving it once a week since last summer, still kept making noise. Then in January the pitman seal blew out, so I had to replace that and buy new fluid. Just yesterday, that 8 month old hose blew out on the highway. I completely lost power steering doing 80 mph on the way to work. Turns out the high pressure hose has a hairline crack on the secondary flare at the pump, right behind the O ring. Did I mention that this new pump also keeps making noise, no matter how long I bleed it and no matter what fluid I use? I am so sick of owning a saginaw pump, with a market full of crummy reproduction parts and reman units. So I'm trying to find a new hose, again, (In my country american cars are a bit rare) while simultaneously wondering what is going to give out next. Hope you get your pulley sorted. I'll make sure to check mine as well, to see if it's not wobbly. Thanks for the video, Eric!
Eric you are one of the best. Been following you for years and I like the fact that everything you film does not always work perfect. You are real world and I appreciate that. It makes the rest of us feel human when we run into problems. Thank you for the video Artie 👍🇺🇸🙏
One of the best videos to date. I like the trial and error portions as it gives me, the viewer, a reason to watch the full extent of the video. Good info found here. Thanks for the HOURSSSS of editing to bring us this video.
Just finished replacing the control valve and ram cylinder on my 1978 Ford Granada. It uses ATF type F. It's so nice to drive down the road without 4" of play in the steering wheel!
I LOVED my '71 Chevy Cheyenne! The power steering was awesome! I could steer at park with my pinkie finger. When my girlfriend first drove it, she said "wow, the steering is so easy."
Just replaced the power steering cooler on my 2004 Chevy Avalanche last week. Never knew such a thing existed. It was quite rusty and fragile looking but not leaking. Many have commented on YT that it is a common failure on Silverado style trucks.
I had this exact problem with my 2012 Toyota 2.7L several years ago. I did everything you did short of replacing the power steering pump. I was so irritated that I couldn't figure out the cause. I eventually gave up but suspected that it was either the power steering pump or the steering rack. The dealer hung me out to dry and said that everything was 'normal.' It's nice to know that I am not crazy. After having so many issues with that truck, I am glad that it's out of my hair now.
Eric!Thanks for showing us that you are human with your well-stocked shop and devices to assist. It really helps us to trust you watching you scratch your head and grasp for solutions to the nth degree. I couldn’t help but giggle my ass off(sorry)seeing you go thru what WE novice weekend mechanics go thru. Sometimes the ‘tail wags the dog’ regardless of the person. BTW...sweet ride your truck!!Thanks for your professionalism and service for us
My 02' F250 actually recommends Mercon trans fluid for the power steering/hydro boost system. I've run Mercon V in it (and the transmission) for over 10 years. Glad you found the problem.
I was about to suggest something similar. I've come across a few vehicles in my youth (which, admittedly, was a _long_ time ago) where the manufacturer required using ATF instead of power steering fluid. I'd say the first recourse should always be to READ THE MANUAL FIRST. :-D
I flushed all the old fluid from my system and also filled it with the synthetic fluid in the yellow bottle. I must say it works great and got rid of the whine!
I pretty much knew it was the pump and I think you did too, but you need to make sure. And because it fluctuated with RPM makes you look at pressure being the difference maker... Interesting video Eric. Like always. Thanks!
I have exactly the same issue in my 1988 Lincoln Town Car. After driving a couple of miles the steering is stiff. I’m going to check my power steering pump. Your tutorial was one of the best I ever seen. Thank you for sharing!!! I’ve just subscribed.
Thanks again Eric, dealing with an 04 CRV that I have been pouring Walmart PSF through for a few years now, so that last little bit “obviously only use Honda brand fluid in a Honda..” 😳 CONGRATULATIONS on having power steering back!!! I CANT WAIT TO SEE WHAT THATS LIKE AGAIN! 😂
I'm currently having this issue... hot ps is very hard to turn, but cold works like a treat... I've been thinking about throwing a pump at it, but after this video I most certainly will... feels promising :) Thank you Eric
I really appreciate this video. I have been confounded since replacing a piece of rusted out ps line with hose. Before I fixed the leak ps was good. Since the fix my ps has been like Eric’s. This video gives me some ways to check the system.
Yes on the wrong side of the pump. But you really worked hard on going thru all the debug. I've been there, I've done that. And now you know more about power steering systems than everyone..hah hah! Great video Eric.
Thanx for in detail of the power steering pressure release valve, mine fell out when I disconnected the power steering line, I've been over working myself to bleed the power steering
Nice in the end. I didn't agree with the first location of the cooler as soon as you mentioned it for two reasons. 1) behind the radiator as it would try to cool with hot air. 2) it was higher than the pump and could back drain into the pump and overflow. Nice video, real men admit to their mistakes. Great in the end! The pump manufacturer will point their finger at the pulley, the pulley manufacturer will send you a new pulley but not do anything about the pump (in my opinion)
I have come across a similar issue on a Subaru and after the customer had the rack and pump replaced multiple times at the dealer brought to me. After awhile, I found that there was a possibility that there is a non serviceable filter in the high pressure hose. Changed out the hose and all was good after that.
Best pressure test tool to test a power steering cooler for leaks. 2019 Promaster 2500 is leaking I believe from the factory cooler. Need to test it and might replace the factory with a Derale heat sink model. Great videos!
Great vid, Eric! Was neat to see the pressure all over the place, and fade out with heat. I've never pressure tested a p/s system before. I always got lucky winging pumps at them I guess, lol. 😁 Perfect timing - I just rebuilt the pump on our '86 Grand Marquis a couple weeks back. Not because it wasn't working (original 34 year old pump with 268k on it too! So different from 21st Century stuff!!!), but because it was leaking from everywhere. I made a big mistake though - during the rebuild, since I was in a rush (as usual) I pounded the bushing in instead of pressing it in, like you're supposed to. That mushroomed the end of the bushing, and made the drive really tight to spin. Bad, bad, bad! I filed it down, but apparently not enough. It's working, albeit running hot ... but, I never checked to see how it ran the 17 years we've owned it, so I have no benchmark as far as temperature goes. I should have left the OE bushing in place! It wasn't bad at all. The pump had a billion little springs and slippers that went everywhere upon disassembly, and a few hydraulic plates that need to go back in a certain way - one way only! I should've marked things, but I didn't. I was lucky to get it all back together, lol. I was shooting vid of it, so I had that footage to examine prior to assembly. Made assembly go super slooooow. I also didn't realize that my GM pulley puller wouldn't fit at all on this Mercury! That made me mad. My neighbor had a Snap-On puller, also for a GM, that we were able to make work, thankfully. Used some all-thread to press it back on. Had to do this twice, since I forgot to install the pump in the bracket first, LOL! That was a long, strange trip!! I'll probably wing a pump at it next time - it was a royal PITA getting this thick spring clip out of (and back into!) its groove. It's working great now, but I'm seeing sparkles in the fluid now, presumably from the butchered bushing I slammed in and mushroomed. Going to replace the fluid with some Amsoil synthetic AW32 hydraulic fluid, since I just ordered some to change my lift fluid. Now I've got a use for the leftover gallon. Plenty to flush the system out a few times, and refill. 👍😎
It looks like some of the parts on your pressure tester are brass. Make sure all fittings and valve are rated for high pressure, especially when your hand is next to it. If the shut off valve and something fails with your hand by it, you might not like the out come.
Sorry about the bad pump, you should be able to get it warrantied with no issues. The new pump, all you had to do was pull out the brass flare inside the fitting with an easy out, to switch it over to the metric style line that uses the O-ring.
Im glad you had this video.Just went 4 wheeling with my jeep tj today and after we started on highway i noticed turning right jeep seemed to feel like turning right it was quicker response turning right on highway, then left seemed just different.Stoped at fast food and was backing up and noticed it didnt seem to feel like it was turning real sharp as i turned left.I had parked and was looking at tire and when i turned to what i felt should have been fully to left,i noticed wheel wasnt turned to full left lock.And the steering wheel was hard to mushy feeling but steering wheel continued to turn ,but somewhat hard to turn.I was like oh crap have i sheared off the pitman arm key or splines or something? So i looked up some videos and BAM! Your giving me just what i was looking for.I am not sure if its pump yet or steering box but now i know not to just go buy a pump right away.Ill check on tester tomorrow,Ive read the pumps as well as steering boxes can be prone to fail considering big tires and pump and box have alot of miles.SO A BIG THANK YOU FOR THE INFO ERIC,you have been a favorite for a long time.Sincerely ROB
Excellent video. Good job. Must be nice to be a type B personality! So cool, so relaxed he is. I started out as a car mechanic but gave it up in my 20's because the aggravation and endless problems gave me an ulcer! Now I only work on my own car, or sometimes my family's.
Great video! Though I think I know the issue with the original pump.. so don’t toss it out if you haven’t yet. Consider this, as the gauge was jumping when measuring the original pump, indicating the check valve wasn’t “checking” as the fluid is bouncing back to the pump and that extra movement creates excess friction making the fluid hot. Thinking that if the check valve ball bearing’s seat was dirty or ball was stuck, this repair could be an easy one.
Another thing to check on modern cars, what steering mode it's on. My wife my complaining that the steering was heavy, I accidentally left it on "sport" mode, switched it back to "comfort" now she's happy again.
Yeah through out the second half of the video I kept asking, is the pulley replaced? I guess as long as the truck is not driven it should be ok. But what do I know, I'm not a mechanic lol.
Well the bad pully is how I wint through 3+~ power steering pumps ( at full retail costs out of my pocket before I got around to fixing it correctly now for me to finish rebuilding the rest of the engine after it died more than a year ago ) on a 1969 dodge big block ( I was 17-25 years old at the time ) and it was added by the 2 owner removing the V-belt water idler and hacking it to drive the water pump and power steering. So I didn’t catch it the first time mostly because it was the oldest car at the time I worked on it ( and most of the automotive engines I’ve work on are 1995-up serpentine ( or a mix of v-belts and serpentine 1980-90’s) style sofar it’s been the opposite way with industrial Machines I’ve been around ) and didn’t know/have a manual or a good way to look it up as I didn’t have mobile internet connection plus the owner insisting that was normal to run it that way even if the pully looked was too far out and was wobbling ( 1/32 to 1/6 inch ) ( plus looked like it had steel mig welding done to the back side but I’ve seen a couple of OE 1’s that have come from day 1 ) just like your bad Monarch 1 Edit to add to responsed I’m with Eric on this one and I’m glad he clarified that it still has the old one installed and that it’s best practice to check and if needed correct the root of problem. as you can seen I’ve burn up good parts just to get home/somewhere/ rarely a diagnostic way if I’m stumped /obvious💡🔮/first time running unknown mechanical condition ect./trying it in the past I just rather not be waste full
For those that are hung up on the pulley. You need to understand there would be NO VIDEO without installing the old pulley. I can't spin the power steering pump without a pulley. I've reached out to March Performance about the pulley and I'm waiting to hear back. Once again, I just put this truck back together on 6.12.2020. Hopefully they send me a new one. If not, I'll have to figure something out. If the old pulley ruins the new pump, I'll just warranty it. Either way I needed to post this video so I used the old pulley. My steering works fine, finally. I think the take away for you the viewers is to check the pulley for run out that could cause a potential pump failure. For me that's job done. You've been given the information now use it the next time you need it. Let's move on. Thanks for your comments.
I've noticed that bad pumps become more efficient with rpm. So if you raise the idle and it works, 9/10 its a bad pump. This works from hvac to the transmission.
Thank you, Eric! You are the man! I've been chasing weak or hard steering for years and years on my Ram which uses the same system. Of course, replaced box twice (2 Redheads), pump once, lines once, bled it a hundred times, new belts, tensioners, nothing. I guess I'll try yet another pump. Trouble is, they are "reman" junk nowadays and a new one is real $$$. Thanks for working through my mind's ideas, though. I really appreciate this video!
I dont know if you have noticed Eric, but screws have different hole heights, see 26:35 where you measure them and point out their differences. I would assume this might to do something as well. I know for big machinery, small fluid restriction in a pressure system can cause extra load on innards of pump and as well heat up the fluid.
I knew before you start the video that your pump was bad. I was in the same boat and at the end replaced the pump with new one. My first pump was remanufactured from Lares the most expensive one on rockauto at the time and it failed almost instantly...I was chasing the problem around... the Lares stuff was talking about air in the system so i was trying all kind off bleeding processes changing out pressure valves...nothing helped. At the end i bought another pump this time the cheapest from cardone put it on and it works great but it was loud as hell...i used some lucas power steering stop leak to make it quiet. Its all good for two years now 😁
interesting point to note, some vehicles actually recommend the use of ATF instead of power steering fluid, including a lot of land rovers, which also oddly use ATF in manual gearboxes
As I said in the video, use what the manufacturer calls for. My point about ATF was to bring that to the attention of people who think they can use ATF in place of power steering fluid.
Dear Mr. Eric, since cooling the fluid is important for longevity of power steering as well as automatic transmission life, maybe you can try a 1cm or 1/2 inch thick insulating foam with zip ties around the power steering exposed metal lines to insulate it from engine bay oven-like heat, maybe (I am not sure) you can get some lower power steering fluid temperatures. The power pressure test you outlined are the only solution for any kind of steering stiffness since many people buy a repair kit and rebuild such pump which yield to nothing. FYI, I've heard in old Hondas that a somehow a bit stiff steering caused by a power steering pump not delivering its full potential could affect idle speed, and since you show us the flickering needle of pressure gauge and it is a V8, then on a Honda 4 cyl. that could be more felt at idle since the flickering needle is like off/on power pulses rather than constant uniform power withdrawn from engine. Also Dear Eric, FYI, I consider your goodself as probably the 1st one who establishes the correct way of making videos due to your past expertise in movie making as you mentioned years ago, and I ( I am in Jordan / Middle East) watched you since you started in your small shop years back, as a matter of fact, the huge directory in my PC which I store all movies related to in-depth Auto. electrical / mechanical diagnosis is named 0-Eric The Car Guy and the Zero is to keep it up the directories list under Automotive in my PC. I hope what I've said give you a boost of happy and nourishment to know that there are ones far away who loves you. Thank you indeed for your great contribution. John Jack Kaplanian.
My 2007 auction Civic was getting noisy each year fluid level was good. I remembered people at auction added power steering fluid, since it was making noise. Took a turkey Bastet and sucked out some fluid from reservoir and it was pink in color like the replacement fluid is, however for Honda’s it is clear mineral oil. After removal and replacement with the replacement for Asian cars everything was quiet again.
Looked like a pain in the Arse, Eric. Glad you got it fixed, I need to do my 2010 Camry and 05 TL soon. This week I am installing my Steel braided brake line on the TL and this past weekend I install K-Tuned shift linkage billet bushings. Quite a pain with harness clips in the way, but got it done looks good to, I'll send it on Twitter to you. Be safe and take care bud.
Glad to see it was the pump. Not encouraging for my problem, yet. I just replaced my pump because it was leaking. OBS Ford 7.3l Powerstroke. For the first time, after installing the new pump, I've got no power assist at idle, and revving does help a little. But definitely not roadworthy. In process of changing all the lines plus a Redhead gear box. If all of this fails, I'm putting the old pump back in, and facing being "that guy" who has to convince a seller I was sold a bad pump. We'll see.
Great video I have been having the same problem with my 98 GMC K1500 mine has been worse since I lifted it and put bigger wheels and tires on it was always a bit sluggish when hot now its not good sitting still and turning the wheel and the pump is noisy when hot now its old the truck has 260000 miles on it not sure if it's the factory pump or not but thanks to your video I think i no what is wrong thanks man love you're channel you dad's truck got me hooked
without humbling experiences nobody would be able to fit their head through the doorway. ;P ticking lifter or pulleys i hear? ;P Thanks for posting Eric! I hope you and yours stay safe during this nutty time we r in.
Another thing worth checking if you have issues like this is the pressure relief valve on the pump. Older Mitsubishi Pajeros (think you call them Monteros) have that issue and I've seen it on other vehicles too.
Hey Eric. I really enjoy your channel! I used to do all my own auto repairs but not so much any more. Just simple stuff now. Anyway you never mentioned what happened with the bad pulley in this video. Having fun and staying dirty however I can. Steve
I have a chevy that kept killing power steering pumps, it turned out the belt was the wrong size and too tight so it will put too much pressure on the shaft and burn the bearings. New belt solved that problem.
I kinda have the same issue in my 04 Sierra. Only when im at low speed, foot on the brake, and backing up and going forward. When it's cold, it works fine. I just got a reman pump this year
I had a similar issue with my power steering pump on my Volvo XC90. When I rolled up to a stop it was so hot that it slowed the idle so that the oil pressure light would flash. I put some insulation around the upper rad hose from the engine to the Rad and another piece of insulation around the power steering pump and it solved the problem! Its a twin Turbo Volvo so it gets really hot and the main rad hose runs right over top of the power steering pump. I had many mechanics tell me that I should dump the car and the engine was no good. Turns out you just have to think outside the box.
Eric, I live in New Orleans, Louisiana an I have a stock 85 Ford F-250 with a BBF 460 with a manual trans, this is good because it doesn’t have a Trans cooler in front of the a/c condenser. Heat to say the least gets to be a problem here, adding humidity to that makes it tough for a BBF 460 that runs hot normally even hotter and worst in traffic, not to mention any hauling, towing, off-road or trail driving for that matter. My truck is 4X4 so it came from Ford with a dual V-Belt drive for the power steering as well as a crappy power steering cooler which was just a tube “no fins” mounted in front of the front engine crossmember which had pretty much no air flow. I found my steering would be stiff in traffic and in off road when crawling through camping trails and hills, so I added a power steering (small auto trans) cooler 7.5” X 12.5” X 0.75” with 3/8” OD inlet/outlet in front of my a/c condenser on the passenger side. That said, I did however add a 7.5” X 12.5” X 0.75” with 1/2” OD inlet/outlet engine oil cooler in front of my a/c condenser on the driver side, changed my thermostat from a 192F to a 180F and installed a severe duty fan clutch all to aid in keeping my engine cooling and power steering cooling systems as cool as possible. I’ve found my engine cooling and power steering cooling systems even in hot humid weather while in dense traffic both work great in front of the condenser with great temps with the better air flow which has also helped only a small degree in my fuel mileage due to hard steering and a borderline overheating engine. Also, hauling, towing, off-roading and trail driving has benefitted as well from the better and more efficient cooling solutions I’ve added and has greatly reduced the breakdown of my fluids over-time saving me money too. I understand in your case your pump was ultimately the cause but, better cooling solutions in the proper mounting locations will aid in the cooling and efficiency of all of your components including your engine and any driven accessories that add heat or parasitic draw on your engine causing everything to run hotter. I’ve upgraded these same components on my 1985 Mercury Grand Marquis with these same parts with additional cooler for my auto trans and have similar good results on that vehicle as well, yes more hoses to contend with as well as more fluids and more parts to maintain though the benefits have far exceeded any of the trials that have come from adding these cooling solutions. On the car I used the same size coolers as my truck for the engine oil cooler and trans cooler, though I used a 2.5”H X 15.5”W X 0.75”D cooler with 3/8” OD inlet/outlet for the power steering all with much better cooling and efficiency over stock parts. The LARGEST TRIAL was making everything fit, route and appear as close to factory as possible and me being a factory appearance with better performance person I’m happy with the results.
Thank you for sharing that. I do agree that better airflow makes the cooler more efficient. However as you pointed out, OE manufacturers don't seem to care about airflow for PS coolers. They put the one for this truck inside the frame rail. I think in your situation the airflow is clearly helpful. You have also greatly increased the amount of fluid in the system. All of that will make it more efficient. Thanks for your comment.
Very informative and honest video, you don't see many like this, if any. Solved the issue nicely. I was waiting for you to eventually install a larger diameter steering wheel for better leverage next, lol#@!
I haven't seen the whole video yet, but my sense tells me that's it's the pump. I wouldn't add anything after market because when the truck was new I'm sure there was no steering issues. I would read the high pressure PSI.
I had a Camry with a translucent power steering reservoir and the fluid level looked full but I was still have some issues. After opening it, it was bone dry and it was just a residue film on the inside of the reservoir making it look full. Had to replace the high pressure line. Btw, Toyota recommends ATF fluid for their PS pumps.
I believe that the part with the 1 inch nut has an orifice. Different orifice for different vehicles. Piston controls pressure and orifice controls flow. Just some thoughts. Thanks
Heh, some car brands use ATF, like, actual regular ATF, in their power steering setups. it's goofy, but its a thing. Be sure to check your cars manual. I had gotten a bottle of power steering fluid for my frontier, and then had a thought just before I put it in and double checked the manual... sure enough, ATF. My sisters first gen explorer's pump is supposed to have a specific type of mercon... not the newer ones.. that specific one. something about the newer ones can cause issues with the seals in much the same way regular PS fluid does. And I'm sure this will be a problem at some point later on due to possible supply issues.
Was gonna say i thought that was mostly American brands that do this. Only with Japanese imports have i seen specific fluid (like hon-duhhhh has specific PSF; works with hon-duhhhh and Acura obviously, toyota has their own PSF that works with toyota lexus scion obviously, etc)
German cars started using ATF for their power steering systems as early as the 80s. My 1984 Mercedes called for ATF in the PS and in the manual trans. It was likely to simplify dealership lubricant stock and to make maintenance easier on shops and consumers. All a person needed to have was engine oil, ATF, GL5 gear oil, brake fluid, and coolant no matter the transmission variant. I never saw a huge increase in PS system issues as the market went to ATF instead of PS fluid. Now most cars are electric and the question is irrelevant. I think changing the fluid was much more important compared to the suitability of ATF vs PS fluid. Most people never change their PS fluid, ever. Like, never ever have they changed it on any vehicle they owned in life. It blows my mind.
Old cars used to use transmission fluid also. Like my 56 Fairlane if it had powersteering the factory recommended fluid was type A transmission fluid like my transmission calls for. My 68 Ford 3000 diesel tractor doesnt call for atf but I use 303 hydraulic fluid which is considerably thicker than atf and power steering fluid. Never had a problem with the power steering here either.
Since power steering works by sending fluid flow into whichever end of the steering rack needs assist and turns it into a dead-end until rack position catches up with steering input, you would need a severe restriction close to folding the high-pressure pipe in two to lose power steering altogether and that wouldn't go away from just cooling down. A minor kink might reduce your MPG a bit due to slightly increased head losses but wouldn't have any meaningful impact on steering.
In one film you said that if the steering wheel is crooked significantly, it is certainly a problem w/power steering rack (as far as I understand the problem can't be fixed then just by simply moving in and out Outer Tie Rods in corresponding directions). Mine is crooked ~45 degrees to the right, no steering fluid leeks observed (I saw some fluid inside of the boot ~ 4 months ago, when changed Inner TR (on driver side only, on passenger it was dry), but I think it is very small, since the fluid level doesn't change). I don't remember when that problem w/crooked wheel developed, I don't drive that car a lot, but I hit a limiting concrete bar which they conveniently locate at some parking lot 4-5 days ago, and noticed 45 degrees after that event. So what can happen to a steering rack, what can be wrong, if no leak observed? The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you very much for the informative film.
Thanks for the video. I've been fighting the same issue on a 98 k2500 suburban. I replaced the steering box, and the original pump (which was still good) only to install a bad pump from O'Reillys. That pump was replaced immediately due to poor performance with an acdelco pump from Chevrolet. That was a few years ago but the vehicle does exactly what yours was doing before installing another new pump and verifying that the new pump is actually a good part!! I'm really tired of having to test new parts to verify that they are not crap out of the box. The end user shouldn't have to do quality control on these pumps. Thank you for sharing your struggles this has proved to me that my issue is not completely uncommon. :-)
I've had the same issue, no power steering below 1000RPM, above that, it's fine. Went through 2 refurb'd autozone units and had the same problem. I was told never use a refurbished power steering pump, always replace with new.
Was gonna say i always thought with American cars, whatever transmission fluid it takes, is your power steering fluid too (GM is dexron 3 or 6, Ford is mercon V or LV, Chrysler is ATF+4) Only with import brands (specifically Japanese) have i seen specific power steering fluid
@@kaffetrakter4174 I have to disagree with your last sentence. Car manufacturers will do whatever will get the car past the warranty expiration time or mileage interval as cheaply as possible and without any catastrophic failure. "Lifetime" fluid and "sealed" transmissions is the prime example if that. There is no ATF on the market that is still good beyond 100k miles. Not even your best synthetic with the most robust antiwear package in a highway car with an aux cooler will protect an automatic trans sufficiently past 100k miles. Mercedes came out and said their 722.6 was sealed for life and needed no fluid changes ever. Then the cars started putting miles on the clock and the fluid deteriorated. Clutch material from accelerated wear built up on the internal electronics and would trigger a limp home situation. Pan off repair and relearn was necessary to fix it. Changing intervals for the trans were dropped by MB from lifetime to either 30k or 60k miles (I can't remember specifically at the moment). Chrysler used the Jatco CVT in their Dodge Caliber and Jeep Compass models. The trans fluid was "lifetime" but after 60-70k miles the fluid broke down and would cause the trans to get VERY hot. So hot in fact, that people on the highway were witnessing fluid foaming and a loud whining noise accompanied by a limp-home situation. Engine output drops to almost nothing and people found themselves suddenly doing 30mph on a 75mph interstate. Chrysler says there's no problem with the cars. They designed the AC condenser and ATF cooler to be one single combo unit. Oh yeah, and they didn't give you a dipstick to check the fluid level and condition yourself. 🙄 TL;DR Manufacturers want to make the car as cheaply as possible to maximize profit. They want it to be durable enough to last until the warranty is expired and they won't have to eat major repairs. They want to get the maximum fuel economy, lowest oil waste due to maintenance, and lowest engine emissions possible to meet EPA mandate and get the least flak as possible. That's why we now have sealed transmissions that use thin enhanced economy fluids, engines that use 0W-20 oil on a 10k-15k mile oil change interval, and CVTs that are absolutely not expected to last over 200k miles and are not even considered to be rebuildable. It's quite annoying as a technician as I saw customers get hurt pretty bad after the warranty expired and the wear and damage from the factory recommended maintenance intervals started to be revealed. :(
@@adventureoflinkmk2, usually its ps fluid but there was a time whenatf was used in american made cars for transmission, powersteering and convertible top systems. But you have to be careful one thing I feel Eric over looked is stating Type F doesnt have friction modifiers, that's not true. Type F has more friction modifiers than any other fluid out there. It's why GM guys use ford type F in their gm transmissions as a shift kit in a bottle as it forms up the shifts over mercon/dexron. Type A was straight hydraulic fluid for transmissions and only replacement I found for Type A would me Dexron which should have very little to no friction modifiers. It is what i will have to use on my Ford-O-Matic transmission as Type A cant be found anymore and my last case of Type A is about gone. If you have a powersteering pump whine a trick is to drain your ps fluid a little and pour just a little atf in. The anti foaming additive in the atf will help quiet the pump.
It's been a while but if I recall correctly my 2009 f150 power steering called for transmission fluid type v and my transmission calls for type LV. I would say always read owners manual to ensure you pick the correct fluids.
This is why ETCG is so popular - he's never afraid to show his failures. This is why we trust him, and why we keep coming back for more. Huge respect.
Thank you! I figure if I make the mistake you don't have to.
@@ericthecarguy It really helps. Because it gives us insight into the thought process of diagnosis and problem-solving.
It's a better education than simply being shown how to fix things.
Now we undeerstand a lot more about how and why the system works.
A real teacher shares his/her mistakes so that their students doesn't do the same.😉
Ooo yes! Failures is part of life. Very important part.
Toto Wolff From Mercedes F1 says something along the lines of "We rarely learn anything from winning". Loved this video. Every job i've ever been at, the problem folks were always the ones that would not admit to their mistakes. I've seen a software developer almost get punched out by a mail room manager over this lol.
I like that you show your failures. It's relatable and a teachable moment. I imagine it helps thousands do the repairs the right way without common failures
When you know its the pump but you just dont want to do it😖
Mechanic blues😩
Right?
Eric's Wife: "I bet he is thinking about other women."
Eric: "Why won't the damn power steering work!"
A long video? Yes. But showing us all the trials and tribulations of automotive diagnosis is also very valuable. I'm glad Eric showed it all in this case.
That IS a win! Love the diagnostics, thanks for showing all of your steps--you could have edited out the dead ends you went down...but dead ends are learning opportunities for us!
Interesting fact...my dad was the lead designer of the non-synchronous machining line that made the Power Steering pumps for Saginaw. That line cost (at the time) about $21M USD to design, build and install. It may be the same line still machining those raw castings as that part of the PS Pump really hasn't changed in 30+ years. The machine was running last I knew (about 10 years ago), so there is good change those pumps you have there were machined by the machine my dad designed. Love that stuff...
That is awesome! Thanks for sharing that. Now I'll think about it every time I look at the pumps on the Ford and the truck.
Even a great mechanic can be stumped from time to time. And i thought one valve looked a little bigger than the other but I thought maybe it was just me. This video is a good reminder to always look at the easy stuff first then work towards the hardest
I’d like to see inside the old pump
So do I
I'm working on the edit of that video now. Thanks for the comment.
@@ericthecarguy you're welcome... at least ya know theres some interest in that... i for one gotta see what happened for real
They used to sell rebuilt kits for them. Done a few in my younger days.
I just like that you show us your failures and your triumphs. It's a good reminder that you never stop learning and it is good to try new things. Thanks
Heads up when using those infrared thermometers, especially cheap ones is that, the farther from the gun the bigger the area it reads from. At a few feet away its like a 3" circle, not just what the laser dot is pointing at.
Eric, what a terribly convenient time for me for you to do this video.
I have an 86 Jeep Comanche with saginaw pump like you. I've had nothing but issues with them. My first pump died after having it for four years. Throughout the years it always made noise, but I could never get the air fully out of the system. It finally (violently) gave up last summer. Then the adventure started on replacing the pump. The first pump I ordered didn't come with a reservoir. I definitely ordered one with a reservoir, but it took 2 weeks to get and I was tired of waiting.So I had to use my old (kinda crummy) reservoir with the new pump. Problem was, the pump was not sealing to the reservoir housing. So I thought my old reservoir was out of round. Took it all apart again, tried using a thicker seal from a different pump. No luck, however. Turns out the *new* pump wasn't round at all. It was 5mm out of round. So I had to order a new one. Another 2 weeks went by. Finally got it, installed it, seemed to work. Five minutes after installing, my high pressure line developed a pinhole and shot fluid everywhere.
Then I had to get a new high pressure line for it. Took another week to get in. Was driving it once a week since last summer, still kept making noise. Then in January the pitman seal blew out, so I had to replace that and buy new fluid. Just yesterday, that 8 month old hose blew out on the highway. I completely lost power steering doing 80 mph on the way to work. Turns out the high pressure hose has a hairline crack on the secondary flare at the pump, right behind the O ring. Did I mention that this new pump also keeps making noise, no matter how long I bleed it and no matter what fluid I use?
I am so sick of owning a saginaw pump, with a market full of crummy reproduction parts and reman units. So I'm trying to find a new hose, again, (In my country american cars are a bit rare) while simultaneously wondering what is going to give out next.
Hope you get your pulley sorted. I'll make sure to check mine as well, to see if it's not wobbly.
Thanks for the video, Eric!
Eric, having owned several of these years of trucks.... the pump was always my problem. as infromation.
Eric you are one of the best. Been following you for years and I like the fact that everything you film does not always work perfect. You are real world and I appreciate that. It makes the rest of us feel human when we run into problems. Thank you for the video Artie 👍🇺🇸🙏
Thank you!
One of the best videos to date. I like the trial and error portions as it gives me, the viewer, a reason to watch the full extent of the video.
Good info found here. Thanks for the HOURSSSS of editing to bring us this video.
Just finished replacing the control valve and ram cylinder on my 1978 Ford Granada. It uses ATF type F. It's so nice to drive down the road without 4" of play in the steering wheel!
I LOVED my '71 Chevy Cheyenne! The power steering was awesome! I could steer at park with my pinkie finger. When my girlfriend first drove it, she said "wow, the steering is so easy."
Very interesting to see the gauge difference between the new and old pumps! Verify the actual problem and verify the repair. What a concept, haha.
Just replaced the power steering cooler on my 2004 Chevy Avalanche last week. Never knew such a thing existed. It was quite rusty and fragile looking but not leaking. Many have commented on YT that it is a common failure on Silverado style trucks.
I had this exact problem with my 2012 Toyota 2.7L several years ago. I did everything you did short of replacing the power steering pump. I was so irritated that I couldn't figure out the cause. I eventually gave up but suspected that it was either the power steering pump or the steering rack. The dealer hung me out to dry and said that everything was 'normal.' It's nice to know that I am not crazy. After having so many issues with that truck, I am glad that it's out of my hair now.
Eric!Thanks for showing us that you are human with your well-stocked shop and devices to assist. It really helps us to trust you watching you scratch your head and grasp for solutions to the nth degree. I couldn’t help but giggle my ass off(sorry)seeing you go thru what WE novice weekend mechanics go thru. Sometimes the ‘tail wags the dog’ regardless of the person. BTW...sweet ride your truck!!Thanks for your professionalism and service for us
My 02' F250 actually recommends Mercon trans fluid for the power steering/hydro boost system. I've run Mercon V in it (and the transmission) for over 10 years. Glad you found the problem.
I was about to suggest something similar. I've come across a few vehicles in my youth (which, admittedly, was a _long_ time ago) where the manufacturer required using ATF instead of power steering fluid. I'd say the first recourse should always be to READ THE MANUAL FIRST. :-D
I flushed all the old fluid from my system and also filled it with the synthetic fluid in the yellow bottle. I must say it works great and got rid of the whine!
I'd condemn the PS vane pump in a heartbeat
Good stuff ETCG
I pretty much knew it was the pump and I think you did too, but you need to make sure. And because it fluctuated with RPM makes you look at pressure being the difference maker... Interesting video Eric. Like always. Thanks!
I have exactly the same issue in my 1988 Lincoln Town Car. After driving a couple of miles the steering is stiff. I’m going to check my power steering pump. Your tutorial was one of the best I ever seen. Thank you for sharing!!! I’ve just subscribed.
This looks like a session at my house. It seems like everything I touch gives me heck. Thanks for the great videos Eric!
Thanks again Eric, dealing with an 04 CRV that I have been pouring Walmart PSF through for a few years now, so that last little bit “obviously only use Honda brand fluid in a Honda..” 😳
CONGRATULATIONS on having power steering back!!! I CANT WAIT TO SEE WHAT THATS LIKE AGAIN! 😂
One of the best power steering videos ever! Keep it real Eric the Car Guy...
I'm currently having this issue... hot ps is very hard to turn, but cold works like a treat... I've been thinking about throwing a pump at it, but after this video I most certainly will... feels promising :)
Thank you Eric
Very enlightening video as I have a stiff steering issue with my 4-year old suv. Thanks Eric, greetings from the Philippines!
I really appreciate this video. I have been confounded since replacing a piece of rusted out ps line with hose. Before I fixed the leak ps was good. Since the fix my ps has been like Eric’s. This video gives me some ways to check the system.
Another thing you can do is grease all your front end tie rods joints etc to help everything turn smoother. GReat video Eric as always.
Yes on the wrong side of the pump. But you really worked hard on going thru all the debug. I've been there, I've done that. And now you know more about power steering systems than everyone..hah hah! Great video Eric.
Thanx for in detail of the power steering pressure release valve, mine fell out when I disconnected the power steering line, I've been over working myself to bleed the power steering
Sounds like you have a pumping problem if increasing the speed makes it easier. Just a thought.
Yep smaller pulley.
Nice in the end. I didn't agree with the first location of the cooler as soon as you mentioned it for two reasons.
1) behind the radiator as it would try to cool with hot air.
2) it was higher than the pump and could back drain into the pump and overflow.
Nice video, real men admit to their mistakes.
Great in the end!
The pump manufacturer will point their finger at the pulley, the pulley manufacturer will send you a new pulley but not do anything about the pump (in my opinion)
you are the man, thanks on this video it shows how important the temperature is with the power steering pump.
I have come across a similar issue on a Subaru and after the customer had the rack and pump replaced multiple times at the dealer brought to me. After awhile, I found that there was a possibility that there is a non serviceable filter in the high pressure hose. Changed out the hose and all was good after that.
Best pressure test tool to test a power steering cooler for leaks. 2019 Promaster 2500 is leaking I believe from the factory cooler. Need to test it and might replace the factory with a Derale heat sink model. Great videos!
Best powersteering video on youtube. Thank you Eric
THE BEST video AND narration I've ever seen!
Love your video's. I've replaced hundreds of Saginaw power steering pumps but now I can repair them. Brother you rock! Happy new year!🥳
Awesome stuff, as always. Hope you indeed do a post-mortem on that pump. Really curious what went wrong there.
Great vid, Eric! Was neat to see the pressure all over the place, and fade out with heat. I've never pressure tested a p/s system before. I always got lucky winging pumps at them I guess, lol. 😁
Perfect timing - I just rebuilt the pump on our '86 Grand Marquis a couple weeks back. Not because it wasn't working (original 34 year old pump with 268k on it too! So different from 21st Century stuff!!!), but because it was leaking from everywhere. I made a big mistake though - during the rebuild, since I was in a rush (as usual) I pounded the bushing in instead of pressing it in, like you're supposed to. That mushroomed the end of the bushing, and made the drive really tight to spin. Bad, bad, bad! I filed it down, but apparently not enough. It's working, albeit running hot ... but, I never checked to see how it ran the 17 years we've owned it, so I have no benchmark as far as temperature goes. I should have left the OE bushing in place! It wasn't bad at all.
The pump had a billion little springs and slippers that went everywhere upon disassembly, and a few hydraulic plates that need to go back in a certain way - one way only! I should've marked things, but I didn't. I was lucky to get it all back together, lol. I was shooting vid of it, so I had that footage to examine prior to assembly. Made assembly go super slooooow. I also didn't realize that my GM pulley puller wouldn't fit at all on this Mercury! That made me mad. My neighbor had a Snap-On puller, also for a GM, that we were able to make work, thankfully. Used some all-thread to press it back on. Had to do this twice, since I forgot to install the pump in the bracket first, LOL! That was a long, strange trip!! I'll probably wing a pump at it next time - it was a royal PITA getting this thick spring clip out of (and back into!) its groove. It's working great now, but I'm seeing sparkles in the fluid now, presumably from the butchered bushing I slammed in and mushroomed. Going to replace the fluid with some Amsoil synthetic AW32 hydraulic fluid, since I just ordered some to change my lift fluid. Now I've got a use for the leftover gallon. Plenty to flush the system out a few times, and refill. 👍😎
Great video as well as the follow up test down of that pump! Not much other content out there on these common pumps. Thanks!
Thanks for going the extra mile Eric 👍☮️
It looks like some of the parts on your pressure tester are brass. Make sure all fittings and valve are rated for high pressure, especially when your hand is next to it. If the shut off valve and something fails with your hand by it, you might not like the out come.
Sorry about the bad pump, you should be able to get it warrantied with no issues. The new pump, all you had to do was pull out the brass flare inside the fitting with an easy out, to switch it over to the metric style line that uses the O-ring.
Im glad you had this video.Just went 4 wheeling with my jeep tj today and after we started on highway i noticed turning right jeep seemed to feel like turning right it was quicker response turning right on highway, then left seemed just different.Stoped at fast food and was backing up and noticed it didnt seem to feel like it was turning real sharp as i turned left.I had parked and was looking at tire and when i turned to what i felt should have been fully to left,i noticed wheel wasnt turned to full left lock.And the steering wheel was hard to mushy feeling but steering wheel continued to turn ,but somewhat hard to turn.I was like oh crap have i sheared off the pitman arm key or splines or something? So i looked up some videos and BAM! Your giving me just what i was looking for.I am not sure if its pump yet or steering box but now i know not to just go buy a pump right away.Ill check on tester tomorrow,Ive read the pumps as well as steering boxes can be prone to fail considering big tires and pump and box have alot of miles.SO A BIG THANK YOU FOR THE INFO ERIC,you have been a favorite for a long time.Sincerely ROB
Great video, as usual. Happy you followed thru with tests and had good results..
Excellent video. Good job. Must be nice to be a type B personality! So cool, so relaxed he is. I started out as a car mechanic but gave it up in my 20's because the aggravation and endless problems gave me an ulcer! Now I only work on my own car, or sometimes my family's.
Great video!
Though I think I know the issue with the original pump.. so don’t toss it out if you haven’t yet.
Consider this, as the gauge was jumping when measuring the original pump, indicating the check valve wasn’t “checking” as the fluid is bouncing back to the pump and that extra movement creates excess friction making the fluid hot.
Thinking that if the check valve ball bearing’s seat was dirty or ball was stuck, this repair could be an easy one.
Another thing to check on modern cars, what steering mode it's on. My wife my complaining that the steering was heavy, I accidentally left it on "sport" mode, switched it back to "comfort" now she's happy again.
Look forward to a necropsy/RCA teardown of the bad pump. I'm sure you're right that the vanes got damaged, but I wanna see how!
I had the same problem with a reman pump and I returned it the next day for a new one on a 80s squarebody c10
Thanks for the video!! I always appreciate a scientific approach and process plus we all learned a lot!
So has the pulley been replaced after determining it's faulty?
I just finished this work yesterday. I've reached out to the company about the pulley and I'm waiting to hear back.
@@ericthecarguy But you didn't put the broken one back in, after it potentially damaged the old pump?
Yeah through out the second half of the video I kept asking, is the pulley replaced? I guess as long as the truck is not driven it should be ok. But what do I know, I'm not a mechanic lol.
Well the bad pully is how I wint through 3+~ power steering pumps ( at full retail costs out of my pocket before I got around to fixing it correctly now for me to finish rebuilding the rest of the engine after it died more than a year ago ) on a 1969 dodge big block ( I was 17-25 years old at the time ) and it was added by the 2 owner removing the V-belt water idler and hacking it to drive the water pump and power steering. So I didn’t catch it the first time mostly because it was the oldest car at the time I worked on it ( and most of the automotive engines I’ve work on are 1995-up serpentine ( or a mix of v-belts and serpentine 1980-90’s) style sofar it’s been the opposite way with industrial Machines I’ve been around ) and didn’t know/have a manual or a good way to look it up as I didn’t have mobile internet connection plus the owner insisting that was normal to run it that way even if the pully looked was too far out and was wobbling ( 1/32 to 1/6 inch ) ( plus looked like it had steel mig welding done to the back side but I’ve seen a couple of OE 1’s that have come from day 1 ) just like your bad Monarch 1
Edit to add to responsed
I’m with Eric on this one and I’m glad he clarified that it still has the old one installed and that it’s best practice to check and if needed correct the root of problem. as you can seen I’ve burn up good parts just to get home/somewhere/ rarely a diagnostic way if I’m stumped /obvious💡🔮/first time running unknown mechanical condition ect./trying it in the past I just rather not be waste full
For those that are hung up on the pulley. You need to understand there would be NO VIDEO without installing the old pulley. I can't spin the power steering pump without a pulley. I've reached out to March Performance about the pulley and I'm waiting to hear back. Once again, I just put this truck back together on 6.12.2020. Hopefully they send me a new one. If not, I'll have to figure something out. If the old pulley ruins the new pump, I'll just warranty it. Either way I needed to post this video so I used the old pulley. My steering works fine, finally. I think the take away for you the viewers is to check the pulley for run out that could cause a potential pump failure. For me that's job done. You've been given the information now use it the next time you need it. Let's move on. Thanks for your comments.
I've noticed that bad pumps become more efficient with rpm. So if you raise the idle and it works, 9/10 its a bad pump. This works from hvac to the transmission.
Thank you, Eric! You are the man! I've been chasing weak or hard steering for years and years on my Ram which uses the same system. Of course, replaced box twice (2 Redheads), pump once, lines once, bled it a hundred times, new belts, tensioners, nothing. I guess I'll try yet another pump. Trouble is, they are "reman" junk nowadays and a new one is real $$$. Thanks for working through my mind's ideas, though. I really appreciate this video!
You might consider running a cooler to help things last longer after you get them fixed.
@@ericthecarguy Thanks but it has a factory cooler with the tow package.
I dont know if you have noticed Eric, but screws have different hole heights, see 26:35 where you measure them and point out their differences. I would assume this might to do something as well. I know for big machinery, small fluid restriction in a pressure system can cause extra load on innards of pump and as well heat up the fluid.
I knew before you start the video that your pump was bad. I was in the same boat and at the end replaced the pump with new one. My first pump was remanufactured from Lares the most expensive one on rockauto at the time and it failed almost instantly...I was chasing the problem around... the Lares stuff was talking about air in the system so i was trying all kind off bleeding processes changing out pressure valves...nothing helped. At the end i bought another pump this time the cheapest from cardone put it on and it works great but it was loud as hell...i used some lucas power steering stop leak to make it quiet. Its all good for two years now 😁
interesting point to note, some vehicles actually recommend the use of ATF instead of power steering fluid, including a lot of land rovers, which also oddly use ATF in manual gearboxes
As I said in the video, use what the manufacturer calls for. My point about ATF was to bring that to the attention of people who think they can use ATF in place of power steering fluid.
Glad you got it fixed Eric
Dear Mr. Eric, since cooling the fluid is important for longevity of power steering as well as automatic transmission life, maybe you can try a 1cm or 1/2 inch thick insulating foam with zip ties around the power steering exposed metal lines to insulate it from engine bay oven-like heat, maybe (I am not sure) you can get some lower power steering fluid temperatures. The power pressure test you outlined are the only solution for any kind of steering stiffness since many people buy a repair kit and rebuild such pump which yield to nothing. FYI, I've heard in old Hondas that a somehow a bit stiff steering caused by a power steering pump not delivering its full potential could affect idle speed, and since you show us the flickering needle of pressure gauge and it is a V8, then on a Honda 4 cyl. that could be more felt at idle since the flickering needle is like off/on power pulses rather than constant uniform power withdrawn from engine. Also Dear Eric, FYI, I consider your goodself as probably the 1st one who establishes the correct way of making videos due to your past expertise in movie making as you mentioned years ago, and I ( I am in Jordan / Middle East) watched you since you started in your small shop years back, as a matter of fact, the huge directory in my PC which I store all movies related to in-depth Auto. electrical / mechanical diagnosis is named 0-Eric The Car Guy and the Zero is to keep it up the directories list under Automotive in my PC. I hope what I've said give you a boost of happy and nourishment to know that there are ones far away who loves you. Thank you indeed for your great contribution. John Jack Kaplanian.
My 2007 auction Civic was getting noisy each year fluid level was good. I remembered people at auction added power steering fluid, since it was making noise. Took a turkey Bastet and sucked out some fluid from reservoir and it was pink in color like the replacement fluid is, however for Honda’s it is clear mineral oil. After removal and replacement with the replacement for Asian cars everything was quiet again.
Looked like a pain in the Arse, Eric. Glad you got it fixed, I need to do my 2010 Camry and 05 TL soon. This week I am installing my Steel braided brake line on the TL and this past weekend I install K-Tuned shift linkage billet bushings. Quite a pain with harness clips in the way, but got it done looks good to, I'll send it on Twitter to you. Be safe and take care bud.
Glad to see it was the pump. Not encouraging for my problem, yet. I just replaced my pump because it was leaking. OBS Ford 7.3l Powerstroke. For the first time, after installing the new pump, I've got no power assist at idle, and revving does help a little. But definitely not roadworthy. In process of changing all the lines plus a Redhead gear box. If all of this fails, I'm putting the old pump back in, and facing being "that guy" who has to convince a seller I was sold a bad pump. We'll see.
A good video and I'll definitely be referring back to it when I try to fix the power steering on my 99 k1500
Great video I have been having the same problem with my 98 GMC K1500 mine has been worse since I lifted it and put bigger wheels and tires on it was always a bit sluggish when hot now its not good sitting still and turning the wheel and the pump is noisy when hot now its old the truck has 260000 miles on it not sure if it's the factory pump or not but thanks to your video I think i no what is wrong thanks man love you're channel you dad's truck got me hooked
Some manufacturers do call for ATF in their systems, my Toyota for example calls for Dex II or III in the manual.
without humbling experiences nobody would be able to fit their head through the doorway. ;P ticking lifter or pulleys i hear? ;P Thanks for posting Eric! I hope you and yours stay safe during this nutty time we r in.
Great video, very informative. I’ve now got a much better idea about how to troubleshoot my own problem. Thx for taking the time to make this video 👍
Another thing worth checking if you have issues like this is the pressure relief valve on the pump. Older Mitsubishi Pajeros (think you call them Monteros) have that issue and I've seen it on other vehicles too.
I covered that in the video. Thanks for the comment.
That engine bay is so stunning and gorgeous
Hey Eric. I really enjoy your channel! I used to do all my own auto repairs but not so much any more. Just simple stuff now.
Anyway you never mentioned what happened with the bad pulley in this video.
Having fun and staying dirty however I can.
Steve
That's because I just finished this work yesterday. I've reached out to the company and I'm waiting to hear back from them on the pulley.
I have a chevy that kept killing power steering pumps, it turned out the belt was the wrong size and too tight so it will put too much pressure on the shaft and burn the bearings. New belt solved that problem.
Great video, now I can confidently use my power steering fluid pressure tester and know what I'm doing. Thanks!
I kinda have the same issue in my 04 Sierra. Only when im at low speed, foot on the brake, and backing up and going forward. When it's cold, it works fine. I just got a reman pump this year
I had a similar issue with my power steering pump on my Volvo XC90. When I rolled up to a stop it was so hot that it slowed the idle so that the oil pressure light would flash. I put some insulation around the upper rad hose from the engine to the Rad and another piece of insulation around the power steering pump and it solved the problem! Its a twin Turbo Volvo so it gets really hot and the main rad hose runs right over top of the power steering pump. I had many mechanics tell me that I should dump the car and the engine was no good. Turns out you just have to think outside the box.
nice upload mate, i enjoyed the journey as always! thanks.
Eric, I live in New Orleans, Louisiana an I have a stock 85 Ford F-250 with a BBF 460 with a manual trans, this is good because it doesn’t have a Trans cooler in front of the a/c condenser.
Heat to say the least gets to be a problem here, adding humidity to that makes it tough for a BBF 460 that runs hot normally even hotter and worst in traffic, not to mention any hauling, towing, off-road or trail driving for that matter.
My truck is 4X4 so it came from Ford with a dual V-Belt drive for the power steering as well as a crappy power steering cooler which was just a tube “no fins” mounted in front of the front engine crossmember which had pretty much no air flow.
I found my steering would be stiff in traffic and in off road when crawling through camping trails and hills, so I added a power steering (small auto trans) cooler 7.5” X 12.5” X 0.75” with 3/8” OD inlet/outlet in front of my a/c condenser on the passenger side.
That said, I did however add a 7.5” X 12.5” X 0.75” with 1/2” OD inlet/outlet engine oil cooler in front of my a/c condenser on the driver side, changed my thermostat from a 192F to a 180F and installed a severe duty fan clutch all to aid in keeping my engine cooling and power steering cooling systems as cool as possible.
I’ve found my engine cooling and power steering cooling systems even in hot humid weather while in dense traffic both work great in front of the condenser with great temps with the better air flow which has also helped only a small degree in my fuel mileage due to hard steering and a borderline overheating engine.
Also, hauling, towing, off-roading and trail driving has benefitted as well from the better and more efficient cooling solutions I’ve added and has greatly reduced the breakdown of my fluids over-time saving me money too.
I understand in your case your pump was ultimately the cause but, better cooling solutions in the proper mounting locations will aid in the cooling and efficiency of all of your components including your engine and any driven accessories that add heat or parasitic draw on your engine causing everything to run hotter.
I’ve upgraded these same components on my 1985 Mercury Grand Marquis with these same parts with additional cooler for my auto trans and have similar good results on that vehicle as well, yes more hoses to contend with as well as more fluids and more parts to maintain though the benefits have far exceeded any of the trials that have come from adding these cooling solutions.
On the car I used the same size coolers as my truck for the engine oil cooler and trans cooler, though I used a 2.5”H X 15.5”W X 0.75”D cooler with 3/8” OD inlet/outlet for the power steering all with much better cooling and efficiency over stock parts.
The LARGEST TRIAL was making everything fit, route and appear as close to factory as possible and me being a factory appearance with better performance person I’m happy with the results.
Thank you for sharing that. I do agree that better airflow makes the cooler more efficient. However as you pointed out, OE manufacturers don't seem to care about airflow for PS coolers. They put the one for this truck inside the frame rail. I think in your situation the airflow is clearly helpful. You have also greatly increased the amount of fluid in the system. All of that will make it more efficient. Thanks for your comment.
Very informative and honest video, you don't see many like this, if any. Solved the issue nicely.
I was waiting for you to eventually install a larger diameter steering wheel for better leverage next, lol#@!
Besides that truck looking pretty your beard looks fresh 😆👍 thanks for the the info. Always appreciated
I haven't seen the whole video yet, but my sense tells me that's it's the pump. I wouldn't add anything after market because when the truck was new I'm sure there was no steering issues. I would read the high pressure PSI.
I had a Camry with a translucent power steering reservoir and the fluid level looked full but I was still have some issues. After opening it, it was bone dry and it was just a residue film on the inside of the reservoir making it look full. Had to replace the high pressure line. Btw, Toyota recommends ATF fluid for their PS pumps.
I use a magnetic filter on my power steering pump and do change the fluid every 40k.
I believe that the part with the 1 inch nut has an orifice. Different orifice for different vehicles. Piston controls pressure and orifice controls flow. Just some thoughts. Thanks
Eric I love the truck. Beautiful.
Heh, some car brands use ATF, like, actual regular ATF, in their power steering setups. it's goofy, but its a thing. Be sure to check your cars manual. I had gotten a bottle of power steering fluid for my frontier, and then had a thought just before I put it in and double checked the manual... sure enough, ATF.
My sisters first gen explorer's pump is supposed to have a specific type of mercon... not the newer ones.. that specific one. something about the newer ones can cause issues with the seals in much the same way regular PS fluid does. And I'm sure this will be a problem at some point later on due to possible supply issues.
Was gonna say i thought that was mostly American brands that do this.
Only with Japanese imports have i seen specific fluid (like hon-duhhhh has specific PSF; works with hon-duhhhh and Acura obviously, toyota has their own PSF that works with toyota lexus scion obviously, etc)
German cars started using ATF for their power steering systems as early as the 80s. My 1984 Mercedes called for ATF in the PS and in the manual trans. It was likely to simplify dealership lubricant stock and to make maintenance easier on shops and consumers. All a person needed to have was engine oil, ATF, GL5 gear oil, brake fluid, and coolant no matter the transmission variant. I never saw a huge increase in PS system issues as the market went to ATF instead of PS fluid. Now most cars are electric and the question is irrelevant. I think changing the fluid was much more important compared to the suitability of ATF vs PS fluid. Most people never change their PS fluid, ever. Like, never ever have they changed it on any vehicle they owned in life. It blows my mind.
Old cars used to use transmission fluid also. Like my 56 Fairlane if it had powersteering the factory recommended fluid was type A transmission fluid like my transmission calls for. My 68 Ford 3000 diesel tractor doesnt call for atf but I use 303 hydraulic fluid which is considerably thicker than atf and power steering fluid. Never had a problem with the power steering here either.
Thank you Eric I always enjoy watching your videos I am from South Africa
Hello South Africa!
Since power steering works by sending fluid flow into whichever end of the steering rack needs assist and turns it into a dead-end until rack position catches up with steering input, you would need a severe restriction close to folding the high-pressure pipe in two to lose power steering altogether and that wouldn't go away from just cooling down. A minor kink might reduce your MPG a bit due to slightly increased head losses but wouldn't have any meaningful impact on steering.
Seeing the gauge jumping and oscilating big time there, already points to the pump
GREAT video Eric as always,step by step repair.Keep them coming brother until next time PEACE.
In one film you said that if the steering wheel is crooked significantly, it is certainly a problem w/power steering rack (as far as I understand the problem can't be fixed then just by simply moving in and out Outer Tie Rods in corresponding directions). Mine is crooked ~45 degrees to the right, no steering fluid leeks observed (I saw some fluid inside of the boot ~ 4 months ago, when changed Inner TR (on driver side only, on passenger it was dry), but I think it is very small, since the fluid level doesn't change). I don't remember when that problem w/crooked wheel developed, I don't drive that car a lot, but I hit a limiting concrete bar which they conveniently locate at some parking lot 4-5 days ago, and noticed 45 degrees after that event. So what can happen to a steering rack, what can be wrong, if no leak observed?
The car is 2003 Chevy Cavalier. Thank you very much for the informative film.
Thanks for the video. I've been fighting the same issue on a 98 k2500 suburban. I replaced the steering box, and the original pump (which was still good) only to install a bad pump from O'Reillys. That pump was replaced immediately due to poor performance with an acdelco pump from Chevrolet. That was a few years ago but the vehicle does exactly what yours was doing before installing another new pump and verifying that the new pump is actually a good part!! I'm really tired of having to test new parts to verify that they are not crap out of the box. The end user shouldn't have to do quality control on these pumps.
Thank you for sharing your struggles this has proved to me that my issue is not completely uncommon. :-)
I've had the same issue, no power steering below 1000RPM, above that, it's fine. Went through 2 refurb'd autozone units and had the same problem. I was told never use a refurbished power steering pump, always replace with new.
You can get a Lang power steering pressure gauge on Amazon . They also have another brand for a little more money.
Interesting info I didn't know about the fluid types. I've noticed some cars ask for dex 3 atf.
Very many systems use dex 3 atf. It is totally fine. Car manufacturers don't recommend anything that will destroy your car
Was gonna say i always thought with American cars, whatever transmission fluid it takes, is your power steering fluid too (GM is dexron 3 or 6, Ford is mercon V or LV, Chrysler is ATF+4)
Only with import brands (specifically Japanese) have i seen specific power steering fluid
@@kaffetrakter4174 I have to disagree with your last sentence. Car manufacturers will do whatever will get the car past the warranty expiration time or mileage interval as cheaply as possible and without any catastrophic failure. "Lifetime" fluid and "sealed" transmissions is the prime example if that. There is no ATF on the market that is still good beyond 100k miles. Not even your best synthetic with the most robust antiwear package in a highway car with an aux cooler will protect an automatic trans sufficiently past 100k miles. Mercedes came out and said their 722.6 was sealed for life and needed no fluid changes ever. Then the cars started putting miles on the clock and the fluid deteriorated. Clutch material from accelerated wear built up on the internal electronics and would trigger a limp home situation. Pan off repair and relearn was necessary to fix it. Changing intervals for the trans were dropped by MB from lifetime to either 30k or 60k miles (I can't remember specifically at the moment). Chrysler used the Jatco CVT in their Dodge Caliber and Jeep Compass models. The trans fluid was "lifetime" but after 60-70k miles the fluid broke down and would cause the trans to get VERY hot. So hot in fact, that people on the highway were witnessing fluid foaming and a loud whining noise accompanied by a limp-home situation. Engine output drops to almost nothing and people found themselves suddenly doing 30mph on a 75mph interstate. Chrysler says there's no problem with the cars. They designed the AC condenser and ATF cooler to be one single combo unit. Oh yeah, and they didn't give you a dipstick to check the fluid level and condition yourself. 🙄
TL;DR Manufacturers want to make the car as cheaply as possible to maximize profit. They want it to be durable enough to last until the warranty is expired and they won't have to eat major repairs. They want to get the maximum fuel economy, lowest oil waste due to maintenance, and lowest engine emissions possible to meet EPA mandate and get the least flak as possible. That's why we now have sealed transmissions that use thin enhanced economy fluids, engines that use 0W-20 oil on a 10k-15k mile oil change interval, and CVTs that are absolutely not expected to last over 200k miles and are not even considered to be rebuildable. It's quite annoying as a technician as I saw customers get hurt pretty bad after the warranty expired and the wear and damage from the factory recommended maintenance intervals started to be revealed. :(
@@adventureoflinkmk2, usually its ps fluid but there was a time whenatf was used in american made cars for transmission, powersteering and convertible top systems. But you have to be careful one thing I feel Eric over looked is stating Type F doesnt have friction modifiers, that's not true. Type F has more friction modifiers than any other fluid out there. It's why GM guys use ford type F in their gm transmissions as a shift kit in a bottle as it forms up the shifts over mercon/dexron.
Type A was straight hydraulic fluid for transmissions and only replacement I found for Type A would me Dexron which should have very little to no friction modifiers. It is what i will have to use on my Ford-O-Matic transmission as Type A cant be found anymore and my last case of Type A is about gone.
If you have a powersteering pump whine a trick is to drain your ps fluid a little and pour just a little atf in. The anti foaming additive in the atf will help quiet the pump.
It's been a while but if I recall correctly my 2009 f150 power steering called for transmission fluid type v and my transmission calls for type LV. I would say always read owners manual to ensure you pick the correct fluids.
I’m glad you got it figured out Eric.