I hope you enjoy this video. Do you like the ASMR style or do you prefer videos with commentaries? Would you like me to do another version with me talking you through the restoration?
Hi I'm in the process of servicing a Sturmey Archer AG 4 speed do you know if the dismantling is the same as the 3 speed I will be following your video it is also 1956 and what size cage bearings does it take as I would like to replace these and cannot see 8 caged bearings on Amazon so could I possibly just replace the bearings lose or fit new ones in the old cage would appreciate your thoughts many thanks...
@@stephenwright8103 Hi thanks for getting in touch. I’ve not dismantled a 4 speed FG hub before - though I do have two of them from 1950 in the queue to service! They are very similar to the 3-speed AG hub with the main difference being that the indicator chain and rod passes through the entire axle and pokes out of the non-drive side. You can download instructions and a diagram of the hub from here: hadland.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/safg.pdf
@@stephenwright8103 I believe the caged bearings are 1/4 inch, same as bottom bracket bearings, but the cage is Sturmey Archer specific. I order my Sturmey archer spares online from SJS Cycles, www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/sturmey-archer-ball-cage-hsa284/
Thank you for your lightning quick reply it looks the same as the rusty and sized my one, as you mentioned it has the chain connector running through the axel to the other side it is still on the wheel being stainless also the front not sure what model it is it looks the same as the superbe but has side pull brakes overall its in good condition will probably go with the boiled linseed look but in the meantime I might wait for you to start the 4 speed service as I don't feel brave enough at the moment to tackle it I'm sure this will be extra interesting for us 4 speed riders look forward to your forthcoming videos 👍
Hi personally I prefer commentaries as in most cases a service of a hub to most people looks daunting so I think this makes it more understandable for the novice, don't put yourself out I can follow the procedure ok Thanks again...
Did I miss where you cleaned the dyno ring? 😮 Great vid, nice and clear. I have a '78 or so that lost first when a driver ran into me from behind. I was concerned about losing the magnetism but I see from your video you can keep the units together. Now I'm concerned about cleaning them when they're out 😂
Thanks for watching and for your question! I didn’t remove the magneto ring from the metal housing, as I don’t currently have the tool you need to hold it together without losing the magnetism. Instead I flushed out the rusty water with WD40 and electrical contact cleaner and gave exposed parts a wipe. It runs better now, with slightly higher output.
Hi, enjoyed the video. I have a 3speed AG and wanted to change the rear cog to a 22 tooth as first gear is not that great, unfortunately the cog is of the screw on type and wondered if I have to change the driver or can you get 22 tooth screw on cogs and if so how do you remove the cog from the driver. Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Thanks for watching and for your question! The easiest solution is to swap the driver with one where the cogs clip on, which will give you a greater selection of cogs to choose from.
Hello sir! Thank you so much for the video. Since I'm trying to restore a Raleigh Superbe, I just realised that second gear is not operational, it's like the gearbox is in neutral when you select it. I also hear what I think is the freewheel ticking all the time when I pedal, but I'm not sure is that actually producing the sound. Watching videos I kind of learned that second gear should have the sprocket and the hub rotating at the same pace, but I really don't know what to look at in the hub to make that happen. Just wanted to ask if you had any suggestion for having already experienced that kind of situation. Thank you again!
Hi, thanks for watching and for your question! The first thing I would check is the adjustment of the gear cable, as it sounds like it's either not tight enough or too tight, and it's not engaging with 2nd gear. The second thing I would check is whether your hub bearings are correctly lubricated. I made a video about how to lubricate the hub and how to correctly adjust the gearing here: th-cam.com/video/rrot8ouZ8LI/w-d-xo.html Let me know if this helps! Rich
Thanks for commenting! This was the first time I've fully disassembled a hub and so I was a little bit nervous at times, however once you figure out the correct placement of those tiny springs, it all comes together nicely!
Have you tried using an ultra sonic cleaner for hub restorations? If it's not thin wires, soft aluminium or plastic parts, they absolutely work wonders in thoroughly cleaning intricate parts. Restored my almost 30 year old Sachs Torpedo 7 hub with it, parts looked like new and it saved me the headache with the toothbrush. Just be careful with electro plated parts, if the plating has holes in it, U/S cleaning might enlarge them. Hope this suggestion might help you in maintaining stuff. Cheers
@@RichsRidesandRestorations I don't work on bikes professionaly so the premium brands like Crest are way out of my price league. I find cheap asian brand U/S cleaners work just fine. Just keep an eye out for heating and transducer power, you want those two to be roughly equal. My first U/S cleaner was actualy a small 30€ from Lidl, pretty nifty and enough for about 80% of all your needs, how ever it was too small for my needs. I later got a 6L model for 130€ off aliexpress, and while it does its work just fine, I do not expect it to last as long as a branded model. It also wont be able to last under continious use e.g. for longer than 30 minutes, without running the risk of overheating the transducers. Which again, is just fine for me, since the parts are spotless after 15 minutes anyways. I would've taken a 3L model if it wasn't for the small upcharge when it comes to a drain plug, makes it much easier to clean up, especialy as some models aren't fully sealed. On the topic of clean up, I put my disassembled hub inside a (rather big) jar with cleaning solution and the jar inside the U/S filled with plain water, so I didn't have to waste cleaning solution, and the grime is contained in the jar. One last word I'd like to say U/S cleaners are not miracle devices, and you should roughly clean off your parts first before U/S cleaning them, but it makes going the last mile so much easier, and thorough. Cheers
@@RichsRidesandRestorations Also get one with a basket and only check for basket size, not total unit size or cauldron size, they will basicaly self destruct when you rest parts directly on the bottom and the cleaning effect will be greatly diminished. Basket materials should only be metal (preferably aluminium) or glas (e.g. a jam jar) . Plastic absorbs the U/S waves.
Thanks for commenting and the suggestion! I’ll see if I can add some captions to this video to explain what is going on and how the hub works as soon as I can.
Don't know if u remember about my previous comment that I own a 49 and a 61 but I broke the plastic dyamno cover on the 49.s original wheel as I had spare bits and new spokes I built a set of 61 wheels for my 49 do u know any one who can get the plastic cover for my 49 wheel as I'd love to keep it original as possible
Hi, thanks for your comment. If you’re on Facebook I recommend joining the “Raleigh Roadster Owners Club” group, which has some very knowledgeable members and people who have helped me out with sourcing spare parts.
@@RichsRidesandRestorations I am I'll do that thanks I was quite lucky when I got the 61 for an extra 70 pound I got the bits to built the second set of wheels and nearly enough to build another full 61 bike once my original 49 wheels are sorted and back on the bike then I'm going to catalogue all the bits make sure I've got everything and if have or I'm close to it then thinking of doing a nut and bolt restoration due to health reasons I'm not able to work atm I get so bored I think my bikes are one of the only things keeping me going . Big fan of your channel even tho I've been doing bikes years I've still learned a good few things of you
Thanks for the feedback! The RJ The Bike Guy channel has some more in-depth videos about servicing the model AW hub which covers the spring positioning.
I hope you enjoy this video. Do you like the ASMR style or do you prefer videos with commentaries? Would you like me to do another version with me talking you through the restoration?
Hi I'm in the process of servicing a Sturmey Archer AG 4 speed do you know if the dismantling is the same as the 3 speed I will be following your video it is also 1956 and what size cage bearings does it take as I would like to replace these and cannot see 8 caged bearings on Amazon so could I possibly just replace the bearings lose or fit new ones in the old cage would appreciate your thoughts many thanks...
@@stephenwright8103 Hi thanks for getting in touch. I’ve not dismantled a 4 speed FG hub before - though I do have two of them from 1950 in the queue to service! They are very similar to the 3-speed AG hub with the main difference being that the indicator chain and rod passes through the entire axle and pokes out of the non-drive side.
You can download instructions and a diagram of the hub from here: hadland.files.wordpress.com/2012/07/safg.pdf
@@stephenwright8103 I believe the caged bearings are 1/4 inch, same as bottom bracket bearings, but the cage is Sturmey Archer specific. I order my Sturmey archer spares online from SJS Cycles, www.sjscycles.co.uk/hub-spares/sturmey-archer-ball-cage-hsa284/
Thank you for your lightning quick reply it looks the same as the rusty and sized my one, as you mentioned it has the chain connector running through the axel to the other side it is still on the wheel being stainless also the front not sure what model it is it looks the same as the superbe but has side pull brakes overall its in good condition will probably go with the boiled linseed look but in the meantime I might wait for you to start the 4 speed service as I don't feel brave enough at the moment to tackle it I'm sure this will be extra interesting for us 4 speed riders look forward to your forthcoming videos 👍
Hi personally I prefer commentaries as in most cases a service of a hub to most people looks daunting so I think this makes it more understandable for the novice, don't put yourself out I can follow the procedure ok Thanks again...
I love assemblies that are easy to maintain. There's a lot of parts there. Imagine how many have been scrapped over the years👿
Did I miss where you cleaned the dyno ring? 😮
Great vid, nice and clear. I have a '78 or so that lost first when a driver ran into me from behind. I was concerned about losing the magnetism but I see from your video you can keep the units together. Now I'm concerned about cleaning them when they're out 😂
Thanks for watching and for your question! I didn’t remove the magneto ring from the metal housing, as I don’t currently have the tool you need to hold it together without losing the magnetism. Instead I flushed out the rusty water with WD40 and electrical contact cleaner and gave exposed parts a wipe. It runs better now, with slightly higher output.
Very good thanks.
Thank you 🙂
Really impressed with that video. I think it works best without commentary 👍
Thank you for the feedback 😃
Hi, enjoyed the video. I have a 3speed AG and wanted to change the rear cog to a 22 tooth as first gear is not that great, unfortunately the cog is of the screw on type and wondered if I have to change the driver or can you get 22 tooth screw on cogs and if so how do you remove the cog from the driver. Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Thanks for watching and for your question! The easiest solution is to swap the driver with one where the cogs clip on, which will give you a greater selection of cogs to choose from.
Hello sir! Thank you so much for the video. Since I'm trying to restore a Raleigh Superbe, I just realised that second gear is not operational, it's like the gearbox is in neutral when you select it. I also hear what I think is the freewheel ticking all the time when I pedal, but I'm not sure is that actually producing the sound. Watching videos I kind of learned that second gear should have the sprocket and the hub rotating at the same pace, but I really don't know what to look at in the hub to make that happen. Just wanted to ask if you had any suggestion for having already experienced that kind of situation. Thank you again!
Hi, thanks for watching and for your question! The first thing I would check is the adjustment of the gear cable, as it sounds like it's either not tight enough or too tight, and it's not engaging with 2nd gear. The second thing I would check is whether your hub bearings are correctly lubricated.
I made a video about how to lubricate the hub and how to correctly adjust the gearing here: th-cam.com/video/rrot8ouZ8LI/w-d-xo.html
Let me know if this helps!
Rich
Cool. I restored an AW earlier in the year. Not as fiddly as I was expecting.
Thanks for commenting! This was the first time I've fully disassembled a hub and so I was a little bit nervous at times, however once you figure out the correct placement of those tiny springs, it all comes together nicely!
Ah, the springs. Specially designed to punch everyone's angst button. 😆
Have you tried using an ultra sonic cleaner for hub restorations?
If it's not thin wires, soft aluminium or plastic parts, they absolutely work wonders in thoroughly cleaning intricate parts. Restored my almost 30 year old Sachs Torpedo 7 hub with it, parts looked like new and it saved me the headache with the toothbrush. Just be careful with electro plated parts, if the plating has holes in it, U/S cleaning might enlarge them.
Hope this suggestion might help you in maintaining stuff. Cheers
I don’t have an ultrasonic cleaner at the moment but plan to get one later this year. Do you have any recommendations?
@@RichsRidesandRestorations I don't work on bikes professionaly so the premium brands like Crest are way out of my price league.
I find cheap asian brand U/S cleaners work just fine. Just keep an eye out for heating and transducer power, you want those two to be roughly equal.
My first U/S cleaner was actualy a small 30€ from Lidl, pretty nifty and enough for about 80% of all your needs, how ever it was too small for my needs.
I later got a 6L model for 130€ off aliexpress, and while it does its work just fine, I do not expect it to last as long as a branded model. It also wont be able to last under continious use e.g. for longer than 30 minutes, without running the risk of overheating the transducers.
Which again, is just fine for me, since the parts are spotless after 15 minutes anyways.
I would've taken a 3L model if it wasn't for the small upcharge when it comes to a drain plug, makes it much easier to clean up, especialy as some models aren't fully sealed.
On the topic of clean up, I put my disassembled hub inside a (rather big) jar with cleaning solution and the jar inside the U/S filled with plain water, so I didn't have to waste cleaning solution, and the grime is contained in the jar.
One last word I'd like to say
U/S cleaners are not miracle devices, and you should roughly clean off your parts first before U/S cleaning them, but it makes going the last mile so much easier, and thorough.
Cheers
@@RichsRidesandRestorations Also get one with a basket and only check for basket size, not total unit size or cauldron size, they will basicaly self destruct when you rest parts directly on the bottom and the cleaning effect will be greatly diminished. Basket materials should only be metal (preferably aluminium) or glas (e.g. a jam jar) . Plastic absorbs the U/S waves.
thanks for reply TG
No problem!
Please explain, how it works
Thanks for commenting and the suggestion! I’ll see if I can add some captions to this video to explain what is going on and how the hub works as soon as I can.
Don't know if u remember about my previous comment that I own a 49 and a 61 but I broke the plastic dyamno cover on the 49.s original wheel as I had spare bits and new spokes I built a set of 61 wheels for my 49 do u know any one who can get the plastic cover for my 49 wheel as I'd love to keep it original as possible
Hi, thanks for your comment. If you’re on Facebook I recommend joining the “Raleigh Roadster Owners Club” group, which has some very knowledgeable members and people who have helped me out with sourcing spare parts.
@@RichsRidesandRestorations I am I'll do that thanks I was quite lucky when I got the 61 for an extra 70 pound I got the bits to built the second set of wheels and nearly enough to build another full 61 bike once my original 49 wheels are sorted and back on the bike then I'm going to catalogue all the bits make sure I've got everything and if have or I'm close to it then thinking of doing a nut and bolt restoration due to health reasons I'm not able to work atm I get so bored I think my bikes are one of the only things keeping me going . Big fan of your channel even tho I've been doing bikes years I've still learned a good few things of you
That’s awesome, I’m so glad that you find my videos helpful. Thank you for your support 👍🏻
I found the ratchet springs a mystery to ages to solve you could have spent bit time showing the proceedure, thanks any way,
Thanks for the feedback!
The RJ The Bike Guy channel has some more in-depth videos about servicing the model AW hub which covers the spring positioning.