I know you're all expecting the Part 2 of both the Raleigh Record Sprint and Path Racer build. Path Racer should be done and ready for next week but I've ran in to a few complications with the decals on the Record Sprint. They're going to need some careful handling to fit properly
i just bought an aw hub for a small price from ebay. i bought it as a practice hub to see how to dismantle it, service it and put everything back together again without having the worry about making any mistakes on it since i have never known how to do this kind of service. my 82 aw hub needs a service judging by what i have learnt while watching these series of hub videos. thanks for taking the time to produce these videos as they are much appeached in there giving us clear insight on how to do the task in hand correctly.
Fantastic, perfect video. I have two 3 speed Schwinns that I have gone through completely (Headset, bottom bracket, brakes, front hub…) all but these little beasts. You have me ready to tackle this now.
I really enjoyed this video. Thank you. I actually found myself holding my breath as you were installing the pawls in the gear cage ... that's how immersive I found it. Well done.
Thanks for this. Used it to dismantle and clean the hub from a lovely old rod brake Dutch Gazelle I bought and gave to my son's Danish girlfriend. It had lost all drive and when I took it apart it was all rusty like yours. All cleaned now and just waiting for new pawl springs since a old one broke. hopefully it will tick along nicely when rebuilt.
its amazing how many people ignore sheldons instruction NOT to use grease!!! People are amazed at how well these things wear maybe because its an OIL lubricated mechanism. Grease can and does dry out and things dont move so well......
Brilliant video. Up until today I thought internal hubs were black magic. By the end of the day I have ordered new pawl springs for my 1979 Grifter rear wheel. Cheers
I have a BikeE with an EcoSpeed electric motor conversion. My hub has been complaining a bit so I’m glad you showed us how easy they are to clean and rebuild! Cheers!!
@MonkeyShred I have over 30 years experience of being paid to be a maintenance electrician and a ‘mender’ in a place where computers and programmable logic controllers are plentiful and swapping parts to assist with fault finding is not good economic sense. You skilfully stripped and serviced a faulty component that could have been scrapped. You got it working. You mended it and passed on your knowledge so others could have a go. I enjoyed the show 🤓
Thanks for a very well made “ instructional “ video .Watching your step by step rebuild has motivated me to do up my frozen ‘52 Sturmey Archer 3 speed . I have studied “ exploded view “ schematic drawings of the hub ( looks intimidating ) , but actually watching the process has certainly eased my worries about it , you make it look so simple . Thanks again !
I was the same looking at the exploded drawing! I just made sure I put all the parts in a sensible order when I took them off so it helped when reassembling them.
Given a old ladies bike and found it has SA 1949 hub with screw on sprocket. The 3-speed was not connected so has run as a single speed for years. Rusty but only a couple of pawls are seized but now cleaned up and got some pawl springs on order. Great vid!
Can you comment on why you do not lubricate the working surfaces of any of the gear teeth. How can that be good for the life and efficiency of the transmission?
Yes - I was thinking that I'd have lubricated it MUCH more, the pawl tips are dry and the ratchet teeth inside the hub were not lubed in teh video at least. Imagine the wear on those ratchets when free wheeling.
This and the bearing service video are amazing, thank you so much for making them. I've got a 1989 AW hub which I began a bearing service on today having watched the other video. I think I'm going to have to give the full job a go tomorrow having seen this.
TIP: to remove the drive side outer if hub is not on a rim like yours is, get a flat piece of wood about 3/4in thick and cut a hole in the middle (so is about same size of the hub) now cut wood in two, then place around the hub use the spoke holes to screw the wood to the hub, place wood in vice, now use hammer and punch to unlock to outer, and without damaging the hub.
I've opened up several of my own internal gear hubs and what i find fascinating is the engineering not only in its function and mechanisms, but their assembly requires virtually no clips and fasteners. Nearly everything is held into position by another piece that prevents it from simply falling out. These days, if you look at mechanisms on a bike (derailleurs, cassettes, brake calipers, etc), everything is held in together with threaded screws, bolts, and rivets.
I've just taken one apart for the first time and the loose fit of the planetary pins kinda shocked me. But as you say, so much of the design is its own retention. Brilliant mechanism.
I've restored a fair few of these. The worst it was a right job getting the planet gear pins out. Another was completely missing one of the pawls, pins & spring (a more recent one without an oil hole). I'm pretty sure the one you serviced here had been taken a part by a previous owner. The spring on the wrong side would have been a massive factory error.
Couple of points on these. The 1950's official service instructions are far better and easier to follow than those published later. Well worth seeking out. And with the later hubs, it is the 36 hole shells that are worth keeping. 28 & 24 hole ones are everywhere, so if your AW is rusted up or worn out, you only need to fit good internals from a scrap 28 hole wheel, and off you go. Plenty of neglected kids bikes and nasty foreign folders still being dumped with the AW the only useful part on them.
Nice informative video, have you considered placing parts in a tub of white vinegar for a few days or more, works great on removing rust from bits you cant normally reach.
Interesting video. I'd have put more lubrication in there though so that it didn't rust up again in the next ten years. It all depends on how they are used. If they are out in all weathers, that rust you so carefully removed could get going again. Nice video though. Very clear camera work made it very obvious exactly what you were doing. Good explanation too.
I've watched a few of these videos now and no one mentions the K804 Indicator rod on the non drive side? Mine is missing on the bike I'm restoring so I was hoping for some correct installation info?
You start with drive side up. At 1:13 you change to none drive side up. At 1:58 without changing the hub, the drive side is up again. Magic. Further good video. In the Netherlands we are used to hubs with a drum brake, which is slightly different.
What a superb instructional video, thank you! I have it all dismantled and cleaned up. New bearings, pawl springs (1 missing & 2 perished) and SA internal grease ordered. Just wondering what oil you’d recommend?
Hi mate, I have watched most of your vids, really interesting, came across an issue with my speed SA, lubed & regreased all parts after complete overall as per your vid. But I now have a grinding noise coming from it mostly when backpedaling. Have you come across a similar situation & what to do to get rid of that please? Thanks in advance
If you get a chance try an ultrasonic cleaner, with whatever you use for cleaning, helps loosen up rust may have been freed up the hub so it would turn.
I was thinking the same thing. I'd have plastered that thing with light oil and grease. The planet gears were bone dry, and the ratchet teeth inside the hub body saw no lube at all neither did the tips of the pawls which engage with them.Imagine teh wear. Also, what is there to stop the rust setting in again over the next decade of use? Oil it and grease it up - I say.
Great video as I've said before when I was rebuilding my 1st AW. I am now rebuilding another one from 1954 and had a heck of a time getting the ball ring off. It would only turn one was and the gear indicator would not pull out or go back in. I finally got the ball ring off but had to take the cone all the way of as everything inside was rusted solid. The bottom pawls are frozen solid and it had alot of rust all over and the metal oil port cap was broken off and the gear chain indicator chain was barely sticking out of the whole (thank God it unscrewed because the last one I had would not). Now that is apart and soaking I will try to clean it up and get her working. Hopefully the only other thing I will need is the gear indicator chain (can you just put a new chain on the old one?). What would the part number be for this AW indicator chain be? Thanks for this video as it seems to have the same provlem. Thanks, Mike
Hello sir! Thank you so much for the video. Since I'm trying to restore a Raleigh Superbe, I just realised that second gear is not operational, it's like the gearbox is in neutral when you select it. I also hear what I think is the freewheel ticking all the time when I pedal, but I'm not sure is that actually producing the sound. Watching videos I kind of learned that second gear should have the sprocket and the hub rotating at the same pace, but I really don't know what to look at in the hub to make that happen. Just wanted to ask if you had any suggestion for having already experienced that kind of situation. Thank you again!
Great video. I'm rebuilding an AW from 1964 that I picked up from ebay to take apart and play with to see how everything fits together and works and when you get to the point to unscrew the ball ring to pull the inards out from the right hand side can you put the left axle in a vice or do you have to grab ahold of the hub itself like you did and then unscrew the ball ring. I thought I saw that on another video but with the left side in a vice mine just spins, yours was obviously already loose so you didn't have to worry about it. Thanks, Mike
@@MonkeyShred Thanks, I double wrapped the hub with duck tape, one side sticky side on the hub and the other sticky side to the outside so it would stick to the vice and after much swearing and pounding it broke free. My problem now is the indicator chain and spindle will not unscrew and the nuts/etc on the right side ore still on so although I got everything loose I can't take it the rest of the way apart because of the spindle and chain. Any ideas how to get the spindle unscrewed from the axle key in the axle? Thanks, Mike
Hi , I recently acquired an AW 3speed from 1954 and I am refurbing it. It has the left -left threaded ballcap that unscrews and I can't get it to come loose. I've already disassembled the whole thing and want to get this cap of for cleaning. It was pretty frozen/rusted on the left end and I've got a new planet cage coming tomorrow. I might have to replace the left end pawls and screws as they look pretty bad, Any tips on getting the left-non drive ball cap loose and are they still available? Thanks, Mike
I watched this video and serviced my hub but I thought that taking all the spokes out first and then putting them back in after was a lot of work just for some grease!
That was really good. How do you know these things. Do you have a mechanical training I’m gonny lookout for one of them just to try it. Like the clamps. Are they rubber faced
Thanks. It's just practice really. I don't have any training. I'm just a bit hands on and over the years have learned how things might go together. Yup. Soft face inserts. Saves sticking chunks of wood in there.
Some people report flaw with this particular model : it sometimes disengages from the middle gear into the neutral. Have you experienced such a problem. Any solution to this ?
Hi (or anyone else) , I'm rebuilding an old AW hub I picked up off of Ebay just to get familiar with how these work and how to take apart and reassemble. I have put it back together using this video and after cleaning and I lost one of the pawl springs on the bottom left side. Someone told me that I could put it together with one pawl and bench test it on a vice since there would not be a load on it. I did not oil the hub just used spray lube for the bench test. It works fine by pulling the chain out in 2nd and 3rd but will not go into 1st gear. Could this be because I am missing one pawl and or my springs are probably original from 1964 and they are weak? Thanks, Mike
I don't think it would be down to missing a pawl spring personally although you should be able to find a replacement. There are still lots of spares available for the AW hub.
@@MonkeyShred Well I've got it all cleaned and put back together and when I bench test it in a vice it goes through all 3 gears without the hub on but when I put the hub on I cannot get it to go into 1st gear. I put in 4 new springs. Any ideas? Thanks Mike
Awesome video and great job restoring it. I'm just wondering, you were surprised when the spring passed through the driver. I just took apart my 1972 AW and it does the same thing. I was looking at RJ's videos and the spring stayed at the back of the driver on both the 1974 and 1954 AWs. Did you find it still shifted properly with the spring passing through to the cone?
I can't even find the part where I took the spring out. I haven't actually used the hub yet though, it's still sat in the parts drawer clicking away nicely.
@@MonkeyShred Thanks for the reply. It's around 1:37, but I just realized it was on the wrong side too. Yesterday I found something on Sheldon Brown's website which says some older AW's springs pass through to the cone and it doesn't affect the functionality so I'll keep going with my rebuild.
@@MonkeyShred I was going to ask that too. Thanks for this video - suspect it will become a classic. A bit like those programmes with James May, "the Re-assembler", but without his inane comments. Your video was quite soothing and informative.
Great video, I have a 1986 Sears Free Spirit with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub that I am refurbishing. I think I've got it shifting pretty well but if I decide to strip the hub down any suggestions on what I should go ahead and replace once I'm in there without getting too expensive. Anything I must/need to replace once I open her up? Working on getting all the chrome looking good right now. I have put alot of wd40 thru her to get it freed up. What oil should I put in her know. It says 86-10 and 3 speed 53c coaster brake on it. Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike. I haven't opened up a coaster brake hub before so I'm not sure of the workings on those and if specific braking parts need to be replaced. For a standard AW I would just look at bearings. The rest of the gear mechanism is usually fine to keep on ticking away!
Seized Sturmey-3 you WOULD want to seize that at less than half the weight of any mo-dern 7-8spd you can bunny hop gutters yes aehy own Shimano® but that Sachs7 was a lemon to from 1995.
That one looks like it sat in some salt water. Nasty. :) One question. I have a 1973 Schwinn Speedster with the SA 3 speed. Would you know if that assembly is the same as you have here. The one I have works, but I'm sure it could use a good cleaning, and new grease. Thank you for your time,
seized hubs are no problem and if you like try useing what we in the USA use its called WD40 a time proven solvent/lubricant that works wonders instead of a complete time consuming teardown and reassembly but lets be honest and just give it a needed overhaul.
WD40 is a worldwide thing ;) It doesn't always work with getting parts free though and even then you'll be left with a rusty soup inside. Always best to strip it down if you can.
I know you're all expecting the Part 2 of both the Raleigh Record Sprint and Path Racer build. Path Racer should be done and ready for next week but I've ran in to a few complications with the decals on the Record Sprint. They're going to need some careful handling to fit properly
i just bought an aw hub for a small price from ebay. i bought it as a practice hub to see how to dismantle it, service it and put everything back together again without having the worry about making any mistakes on it since i have never known how to do this kind of service. my 82 aw hub needs a service judging by what i have learnt while watching these series of hub videos. thanks for taking the time to produce these videos as they are much appeached in there giving us clear insight on how to do the task in hand correctly.
No worries! Hope your rebuild goes well.
Having just watched this, I now feel confident enough to have a go at mine. I'm in the process of restoring a 1936 New Hudson. Great video!
Good luck! You can do it!
Very impressive restoration - enjoyed watching.
Fantastic, perfect video. I have two 3 speed Schwinns that I have gone through completely (Headset, bottom bracket, brakes, front hub…) all but these little beasts. You have me ready to tackle this now.
Hope it went well for you.
I really enjoyed this video. Thank you. I actually found myself holding my breath as you were installing the pawls in the gear cage ... that's how immersive I found it. Well done.
I now have no fears with overhauling my SA hub! Thank you.
Glad to help!
Thanks for this. Used it to dismantle and clean the hub from a lovely old rod brake Dutch Gazelle I bought and gave to my son's Danish girlfriend. It had lost all drive and when I took it apart it was all rusty like yours. All cleaned now and just waiting for new pawl springs since a old one broke. hopefully it will tick along nicely when rebuilt.
Fantastic, Useful Video. Well Done! You explain it so well. Pleasure to watch.
Glad you enjoyed it!
its amazing how many people ignore sheldons instruction NOT to use grease!!! People are amazed at how well these things wear maybe because its an OIL lubricated mechanism. Grease can and does dry out and things dont move so well......
Brilliant video. Up until today I thought internal hubs were black magic. By the end of the day I have ordered new pawl springs for my 1979 Grifter rear wheel. Cheers
Hope the rebuild works well for you!
I have a BikeE with an EcoSpeed electric motor conversion. My hub has been complaining a bit so I’m glad you showed us how easy they are to clean and rebuild! Cheers!!
Hope it works well for you.
Top channel youve got for us and anyone else who loves a vintage bike.
Great video.
You are a ‘mender’ and that is a title that’s becoming a rarity in today’s part changing culture.
Thanks. Happy to have that title.
@MonkeyShred I have over 30 years experience of being paid to be a maintenance electrician and a ‘mender’ in a place where computers and programmable logic controllers are plentiful and swapping parts to assist with fault finding is not good economic sense.
You skilfully stripped and serviced a faulty component that could have been scrapped. You got it working.
You mended it and passed on your knowledge so others could have a go.
I enjoyed the show 🤓
a pleasure to watch a skilled mechanic at work
It was a pleasure to bring new life to that hub
3:05 glad I checked, I almost started with the assumption that the removable race was reverse threaded. Thanks!
Thanks for a very well made “ instructional “ video .Watching your step by step rebuild has motivated me to do up my frozen ‘52 Sturmey Archer 3 speed . I have studied “ exploded view “ schematic drawings of the hub ( looks intimidating ) , but actually watching the process has certainly eased my worries about it , you make it look so simple . Thanks again !
I was the same looking at the exploded drawing! I just made sure I put all the parts in a sensible order when I took them off so it helped when reassembling them.
Thank you for de-mystifying the SA-AlwaysWorks hub for me. I said, ooh, listen to that sound, just before you did!
Gotta love that Sturmey tick!
I love hub gears and have always been afraid to pull them apart.- until now. Thank you.
Glad to help!
Great video, think I will be watching this with greasy fingers in the next few days 😅
Hope it worked for it for you.
Some Evaporust would be a great help in getting rid of the rust. It really is astonishing how well it works.
Thanks for sharing.
Given a old ladies bike and found it has SA 1949 hub with screw on sprocket. The 3-speed was not connected so has run as a single speed for years. Rusty but only a couple of pawls are seized but now cleaned up and got some pawl springs on order. Great vid!
Excellent! Keeping those old hubs ticking!
Been wondering how those things worked since i was 7... Magic! Thanks a lot!
Me too!
Can you comment on why you do not lubricate the working surfaces of any of the gear teeth. How can that be good for the life and efficiency of the transmission?
Yes - I was thinking that I'd have lubricated it MUCH more, the pawl tips are dry and the ratchet teeth inside the hub were not lubed in teh video at least. Imagine the wear on those ratchets when free wheeling.
Another excellent video, clearly explained and demonstrated, removed some of the mystery of the S A hub, Thankyou.
Very well done and useful. Many thanks.
This and the bearing service video are amazing, thank you so much for making them. I've got a 1989 AW hub which I began a bearing service on today having watched the other video. I think I'm going to have to give the full job a go tomorrow having seen this.
Great to hear!
Is the sprocket the right way round?
great stuff! I've had a couple of SA 3 speed hubs for years and never been brave enough to open them up. this gave me confidence to - thanks 👍
Good luck. Just take your time :)
@@MonkeyShred spent the afternoon servicing one - with your video was a piece of cake - thanks a lot!
Very clear and well explained video - demystifying the IGH. I need to delve into a FW 4-speed, so this video is extremely useful. Cheers.
Thanks for the video this kind of diy is sensational 👍
Great video, well done. i really like the SA tick as well.
It's great eh? I love it.
A VERY GOOD VIDEO UNDERSTANDBLE FOR PEOPLE THAT SEE THIS FOR THE FIRST TIME
TIP: to remove the drive side outer if hub is not on a rim like yours is, get a flat piece of wood about 3/4in thick and cut a hole in the middle (so is about same size of the hub) now cut wood in two, then place around the hub use the spoke holes to screw the wood to the hub, place wood in vice, now use hammer and punch to unlock to outer, and without damaging the hub.
I've opened up several of my own internal gear hubs and what i find fascinating is the engineering not only in its function and mechanisms, but their assembly requires virtually no clips and fasteners. Nearly everything is held into position by another piece that prevents it from simply falling out. These days, if you look at mechanisms on a bike (derailleurs, cassettes, brake calipers, etc), everything is held in together with threaded screws, bolts, and rivets.
I've just taken one apart for the first time and the loose fit of the planetary pins kinda shocked me. But as you say, so much of the design is its own retention. Brilliant mechanism.
I think this is one of your best videos yet. Good stuff!
Thanks!
Nice job! I would like to know why you didn't but grease on the teeth on the planetary gears. That click!
Brilliant job mate, really helpfull video I needed to know how to replace the Axel key.
Glad it helped
Great video! That tick does sound good, way more audible than the newer AW hub I have.
This video is very useful for me. THANK YOU so much
Glad to hear that
I've restored a fair few of these. The worst it was a right job getting the planet gear pins out. Another was completely missing one of the pawls, pins & spring (a more recent one without an oil hole). I'm pretty sure the one you serviced here had been taken a part by a previous owner. The spring on the wrong side would have been a massive factory error.
Couple of points on these. The 1950's official service instructions are far better and easier to follow than those published later. Well worth seeking out. And with the later hubs, it is the 36 hole shells that are worth keeping. 28 & 24 hole ones are everywhere, so if your AW is rusted up or worn out, you only need to fit good internals from a scrap 28 hole wheel, and off you go. Plenty of neglected kids bikes and nasty foreign folders still being dumped with the AW the only useful part on them.
Very informative, thank you.
Very welcome
Nice informative video, have you considered placing parts in a tub of white vinegar for a few days or more, works great on removing rust from bits you cant normally reach.
Interesting video. I'd have put more lubrication in there though so that it didn't rust up again in the next ten years. It all depends on how they are used. If they are out in all weathers, that rust you so carefully removed could get going again. Nice video though. Very clear camera work made it very obvious exactly what you were doing. Good explanation too.
Thank you very much!!
You're welcome.
Really informative video!!! Many thanks!!!
Great Video well explained
Genius. Thank you
I've watched a few of these videos now and no one mentions the K804 Indicator rod on the non drive side? Mine is missing on the bike I'm restoring so I was hoping for some correct installation info?
You start with drive side up. At 1:13 you change to none drive side up. At 1:58 without changing the hub, the drive side is up again. Magic. Further good video. In the Netherlands we are used to hubs with a drum brake, which is slightly different.
I've got a few with drum brakes now. Brakes from the 1930s though... It'll be interesting to strip those down.
Sir you are the Man!!! Great vid.it helps alot !!!
What a superb instructional video, thank you! I have it all dismantled and cleaned up. New bearings, pawl springs (1 missing & 2 perished) and SA internal grease ordered. Just wondering what oil you’d recommend?
Please explain it's internal working system, how it works in every steps of gear changing.
Hi mate, I have watched most of your vids, really interesting, came across an issue with my speed SA, lubed & regreased all parts after complete overall as per your vid. But I now have a grinding noise coming from it mostly when backpedaling. Have you come across a similar situation & what to do to get rid of that please? Thanks in advance
👌👌👌 good job
If you get a chance try an ultrasonic cleaner, with whatever you use for cleaning, helps loosen up rust may have been freed up the hub so it would turn.
Awesome video. I'm now confident to tackle my SA S2 Duomatic. Cheers!
Great jobs
Great job! My bike has the SA S2C kickback hub
I see your very sparing with oiling the parts. Does that mean that I can't fill the 3 speed with grease to cut down on the ticking sound ?
I was thinking the same thing. I'd have plastered that thing with light oil and grease. The planet gears were bone dry, and the ratchet teeth inside the hub body saw no lube at all neither did the tips of the pawls which engage with them.Imagine teh wear. Also, what is there to stop the rust setting in again over the next decade of use? Oil it and grease it up - I say.
Great video as I've said before when I was rebuilding my 1st AW. I am now rebuilding another one from 1954 and had a heck of a time getting the ball ring off. It would only turn one was and the gear indicator would not pull out or go back in. I finally got the ball ring off but had to take the cone all the way of as everything inside was rusted solid. The bottom pawls are frozen solid and it had alot of rust all over and the metal oil port cap was broken off and the gear chain indicator chain was barely sticking out of the whole (thank God it unscrewed because the last one I had would not). Now that is apart and soaking I will try to clean it up and get her working. Hopefully the only other thing I will need is the gear indicator chain (can you just put a new chain on the old one?). What would the part number be for this AW indicator chain be? Thanks for this video as it seems to have the same provlem. Thanks, Mike
I've not tried to fit a new chain to the indicator but you can pretty easily find them around. SJS Cycles has a bunch of SA spares!
THIS AW HAS THE REMOVABLE LEFT SIDE REVERSE THREAD BALL CAP WITH FLATS TO REMOVE IT AND i HAVN'T BEEN ABLE TO BUDGE IT, ANY IDEAS? tHANKS, mIKE
Hello sir! Thank you so much for the video. Since I'm trying to restore a Raleigh Superbe, I just realised that second gear is not operational, it's like the gearbox is in neutral when you select it. I also hear what I think is the freewheel ticking all the time when I pedal, but I'm not sure is that actually producing the sound. Watching videos I kind of learned that second gear should have the sprocket and the hub rotating at the same pace, but I really don't know what to look at in the hub to make that happen. Just wanted to ask if you had any suggestion for having already experienced that kind of situation. Thank you again!
Neutral should be set with the smooth part of the toggle chain just sticking out of the axle I believe. If it’s slightly out the gears won’t engage
Great video. I'm rebuilding an AW from 1964 that I picked up from ebay to take apart and play with to see how everything fits together and works and when you get to the point to unscrew the ball ring to pull the inards out from the right hand side can you put the left axle in a vice or do you have to grab ahold of the hub itself like you did and then unscrew the ball ring. I thought I saw that on another video but with the left side in a vice mine just spins, yours was obviously already loose so you didn't have to worry about it. Thanks, Mike
It is a case of holding the body in a vice as best you can without damaging it. Some can be very stubborn to undo!
@@MonkeyShred Thanks, I double wrapped the hub with duck tape, one side sticky side on the hub and the other sticky side to the outside so it would stick to the vice and after much swearing and pounding it broke free. My problem now is the indicator chain and spindle will not unscrew and the nuts/etc on the right side ore still on so although I got everything loose I can't take it the rest of the way apart because of the spindle and chain. Any ideas how to get the spindle unscrewed from the axle key in the axle? Thanks, Mike
Where can one get a really old hub like this re rimmed?
Absolutely awesome!
Job well done.
Brilliant video just what I was looking for to service my aw hub on my vintage Rog pony....damn adverts at the exciting point though lol
Hi , I recently acquired an AW 3speed from 1954 and I am refurbing it. It has the left -left threaded ballcap that unscrews and I can't get it to come loose. I've already disassembled the whole thing and want to get this cap of for cleaning. It was pretty frozen/rusted on the left end and I've got a new planet cage coming tomorrow. I might have to replace the left end pawls and screws as they look pretty bad, Any tips on getting the left-non drive ball cap loose and are they still available? Thanks, Mike
I've not tackled the job of removing that cup yet so unfortunately, no tips from me. I tend to find SA spares on SJS Cycles
Hi 👋
How about 5 speed hup ? Is it the same way to open ? I am going to service my old bike.
I've never done one or even owned one so I wouldn't like to say!
Lovely !!
These videos are very enjoyable to watch. What grease do you use for the bearings? Thanks
For the bearings I used a little weldtite lithium grease.
MonkeyShred - many thanks
Great video , I have always liked the 3 speed hub , Strangely enough I have never managed to find one in Asia over the past 25 years ?
Really??
Better clear up Im not talking about the whole of Asia Im talking Thailand and Laos .
I watched this video and serviced my hub but I thought that taking all the spokes out first and then putting them back in after was a lot of work just for some grease!
Haha yeh probably a bit overkill eh!
That was really good. How do you know these things. Do you have a mechanical training I’m gonny lookout for one of them just to try it. Like the clamps. Are they rubber faced
Thanks. It's just practice really. I don't have any training. I'm just a bit hands on and over the years have learned how things might go together. Yup. Soft face inserts. Saves sticking chunks of wood in there.
Its videos like these were you learn about restoring bikes,,, and Sheldon B website👈🏻👍
You took off the spring from other side 1:48 .see 23:44
So how much torque can you put through that hub?
No idea!
Great video mate! I took my SA apart, there was a spacer missing and some sort of soft gasket. interesting! Thanks for the video. Cheers.
Some people report flaw with this particular model : it sometimes disengages from the middle gear into the neutral. Have you experienced such a problem. Any solution to this ?
I think that's just a slightly misaligned gear selector tbh and the cable tension would need adjusting.
@@MonkeyShred thanks MonkeyShred.
You will have to take it apart to attach the chain that moves the clutch.
Nope, that can screw in and out by itself. Just drop it down the axle and screw it in.
I know of a place with boxes of SA hubs. Think I'll pick one up to cut my teeth on. Very good video.
Thanks! Good luck
Hi (or anyone else) , I'm rebuilding an old AW hub I picked up off of Ebay just to get familiar with how these work and how to take apart and reassemble. I have put it back together using this video and after cleaning and I lost one of the pawl springs on the bottom left side. Someone told me that I could put it together with one pawl and bench test it on a vice since there would not be a load on it. I did not oil the hub just used spray lube for the bench test. It works fine by pulling the chain out in 2nd and 3rd but will not go into 1st gear. Could this be because I am missing one pawl and or my springs are probably original from 1964 and they are weak? Thanks, Mike
I don't think it would be down to missing a pawl spring personally although you should be able to find a replacement. There are still lots of spares available for the AW hub.
@@MonkeyShred Well I've got it all cleaned and put back together and when I bench test it in a vice it goes through all 3 gears without the hub on but when I put the hub on I cannot get it to go into 1st gear. I put in 4 new springs. Any ideas? Thanks Mike
Ive got a Sachs 3peed hub on a Brompton. Day uo know where I can get spares? Im after the larger ball race that fits inside. Thanks!
Not familiar with the internals of those hubs, sorry.
Do you know if there is any difference with much later models, i have a 1992 hub that i want to take apart and service like this.
I think the internals stayed pretty much the same.
@@MonkeyShred thank you for replying :) yeah guess I will just be super careful taking it slowly step by step.
Awesome video and great job restoring it. I'm just wondering, you were surprised when the spring passed through the driver. I just took apart my 1972 AW and it does the same thing. I was looking at RJ's videos and the spring stayed at the back of the driver on both the 1974 and 1954 AWs. Did you find it still shifted properly with the spring passing through to the cone?
I can't even find the part where I took the spring out. I haven't actually used the hub yet though, it's still sat in the parts drawer clicking away nicely.
@@MonkeyShred Thanks for the reply. It's around 1:37, but I just realized it was on the wrong side too. Yesterday I found something on Sheldon Brown's website which says some older AW's springs pass through to the cone and it doesn't affect the functionality so I'll keep going with my rebuild.
Superb!
Lesson we've all learned the hard way; don't assume it was assembled correctly in the 1st place! Wrenching fingers over time...
How do you put the small chain that changes gears in, will you have to take it apart again?
Oh no, you just pop it down the end of the axle and screw it in.
@@MonkeyShred I was going to ask that too. Thanks for this video - suspect it will become a classic. A bit like those programmes with James May, "the Re-assembler", but without his inane comments. Your video was quite soothing and informative.
What size punch is that?
Small enough to fit in the gap but big enough not to break.
What Wii be the sdpeed In each gear ???
Depends how fast you pedal and the size of the chainrings / sprocket right?
Great video, I have a 1986 Sears Free Spirit with a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub that I am refurbishing. I think I've got it shifting pretty well but if I decide to strip the hub down any suggestions on what I should go ahead and replace once I'm in there without getting too expensive. Anything I must/need to replace once I open her up? Working on getting all the chrome looking good right now. I have put alot of wd40 thru her to get it freed up. What oil should I put in her know. It says 86-10 and 3 speed 53c coaster brake on it. Thanks, Mike
Hi Mike. I haven't opened up a coaster brake hub before so I'm not sure of the workings on those and if specific braking parts need to be replaced. For a standard AW I would just look at bearings. The rest of the gear mechanism is usually fine to keep on ticking away!
Nice work.
Stamp wrench!
Excuse me?
Seized Sturmey-3 you WOULD want to seize that at less than half the weight of any mo-dern 7-8spd you can bunny hop gutters yes aehy own Shimano® but that Sachs7 was a lemon to from 1995.
Excuse me?
That one looks like it sat in some salt water. Nasty. :) One question. I have a 1973 Schwinn Speedster with the SA 3 speed. Would you know if that assembly is the same as you have here. The one I have works, but I'm sure it could use a good cleaning, and new grease. Thank you for your time,
yo're the man !!!
seized hubs are no problem and if you like try useing what we in the USA use its called WD40 a time proven solvent/lubricant that works wonders instead of a complete time consuming teardown and reassembly but lets be honest and just give it a needed overhaul.
WD40 is a worldwide thing ;) It doesn't always work with getting parts free though and even then you'll be left with a rusty soup inside. Always best to strip it down if you can.
Well your better than the other guy on the tube clamped the unit in the vice with no soft jaws 🙄
You sure that wasn't me in another video?
Panma veo
Uno mejores si panma trabajamos cenamos más duro sonido.