Do not use a metal barbell that has a second o-ring. The oil galleys that go from the filter up to this main galley has sharp ridges where they intersect. If you use a barbell with a second o-ring, it will catch on those edges and tear. The broken pieces will go through your engine and oil will leak past the barbell. The ones that do not have a 2nd o-ring have a very tight tolerance to the oil galley. Nothing over 20 microns is getting past it.
You don't "lose oil pressure " if you leave it out from "backpressure " from going through the filter (if you did have "back pressure" in you filter you would need a lot more than the oil diverter)...... you lose oil pressure from the passage going straight to the back cover as nd dumping in the oil pan, ..... second we build tons of high hp ls engines, turbo,blower, nitrous ect, hot oil, big pressure ect, us nor any customer that I have ever talked to or heard of has had a plastic one fail.
@@powellmachineinc uhh they probably scripted this for him , that's the whole promotion thing, they pay him to tell him what to say to his 16k subscriber audience .
I would recommend you take this time to stop and think about this for a minute. Any time you think you are learning something you should always question the person making positive claims. This guy has something to gain by telling you this garbage. This goes for anything in life. Ex. Kirby vacuum salesman that sells you a piece of shit vacuum for more than a car. Ex. I used to think that all these aftermarket parts was upgrades for a 4l60e transmission. And aside from a hardened input shaft and output shaft(and I’m not certain on even this) the factory parts will be better than the $10000 worth the billet parts. There’s not much you can do about the 3/4 clutch it’s just not gonna be able to take the load. The piston is too small. The worst of them all is the false prophets televangelist that take bible scripture out of context and make you feel like if you don’t send them every cent of money you got you will go to hell. This guy is not trying to do anything but sell some bullshit that will destroy your engine while lining his pockets. Don’t learn from people that don’t know shit about an engine.
The smallblock chevy has a similar feature for the same reason, a metal plug inserted in the oil channel. Like the LS barbell, not having it in place - or broken/leaking - does not affect your oil pressure but it WILL destroy your engine since it effectively bypasses the oil filter.
Small chevy does not. The closest thing to this is the oil filter bypass valve that literally bolts to the inside of the oil filter boss that provides the threads that your filter screws on to. If those fail, you can eventually over time mess some stuff up. Thats why they ovver the adapters without a bypass in the aftermarket. Meanwhile gen1 sbc does NOT have anything even remotely like this.. all oil galleys are wide open and can easily be rodded or cleaned with a bottle brush without obstruction.
@@gadgetdeez7069 Sorry, but you have either misunderstood my statement or lack knowledge. The inlet and outlet channels to/from the filter is one (1) drilled hole, partitioned by a post-drilling inserted blanking plug.
@@gadgetdeez7069 next time you have a small block Chevy apart, follow the oil passage that goes through the rear main cap into the block. That passage goes all the way to the top of the block where the oil sending unit threads in. That passage has a plug pressed in that directs the oil from the pump to the filter. Without that plug, oil can and will bypass the filter.
When the block is machined, the oil gallery runs the whole length of the engine block. This barbell part blocks off the oil gallery in a specific spot, so the oil is diverted through the oil filter. It's not intended to move. Without it, you'd have unfiltered oil running through the engine.
Go to powel machine. Decide if you respect his Professionalism, or think He is intentionally steering you wrong, Or has a guilty conscience because he doesn't want you to succeed.
I like the seal at both end . More engine block friendly . And seal cold and hot . But you can add a seal missing on the original one . Assuming the plastic one is not press fitted . If the original one as a tight fit ? It's a non issue
You are right about the oil pressure. This guy is full of crap. The oil filters "back pressure" has nothing to do with creating oil pressure. Bearing clearances dictate that. This dude is just trying to sell something that does nothing. The factory piece will be there after the engine is junked. Save your $26.
He is right about loss of pressure if the plug was missing completely. Oil would just blow right pass the dog bone and shoot right out the hole in the back of the block 👍
@@nickb2657 Bullshit, the oil would simply bypass the filter. Oil pressure would remain the same and NOTHING would "shoot" out the hole in the back of the block.
I want to see where the dog bone goes. How do you get to it? Take it out and put it in? You holding one in your hand and pointing out oil galilerys doesn't tell me enough.
This is a guy that knows a little of something and misrepresenting it to the world as if he's a reliable source. The barbell is responsible for 2 things and 2 things only. Diverting oil coming from the pump into the filter. It is also responsible for corking the back of the main oil galley so that oil goes up the block toward the oil pressure sensor to lube rods, mains and cam rather than just dumping out into the oil pan after fire hosing the rear cover. The leakage on the oem barbell is minimal. Theres at max less than 20psi across the front of it, and system pressure on the rear o-ring which is held into the block by the back cover. Do you need one of those fancy ass barbells? Actually no .... No you dont. The ONLY reason that you'd want to get one is to omit the front o-ring (because they always get cut on the ports when you press them in and leave rubber chunks in your oil system) and have a solid seal for the back of the main oil galley that wont deteriorate over time. I've never seen a stock barbell fail, but that doesnt mean its not possible. Also, if the partition wasnt there that diverts oil to the filter, you'd actually have BETTER oil pressure, as theres a pressure drop across the filter and pressure is read AFTER the filter. Ao this guy doesnt know what the hell he's talking about .... Smh
Engineers make "mistakes " on purpose to create problems and sell parts to solve those issues. Thanks to that mechanics have a lot of work and am one of them!.
Improved Racing designed this billet aluminum rear galley plug (commonly known as the "barbell") for Gen III and IV GM LS series engines to improve oil flow and completely eliminate dirty engine oil from bypassing the filter. This part is recommended for replacing the plastic OEM plug in any engine build.
The whole gen3 gen4 LS family uses the exact same setup. The only difference with LS7/LS9 dry sump is the pumps have a primary suction stage that clears the crankcase and dumps it into your oil tank. The oil tank then is plumbed to the pressure stage that pressurizes the block the same way as any other gen3/gen4 right through the same oil gallery.
All LS, flush the engine using CRC/K&W 5 minute Engine flush, drain oil. Drop oil pan clean pan, windage tray, oil pickup tube of varnish. Replace oil pickup tube o ring,replace oil pan gasket. Use AC Delco or Purolator, NAPA Filters Only. Oil Valvoline/Castrol/AmsOil Synthetic. 5W30. 200,000 miles, get a Melling High Volume oil pump, replace timing chain/gear. 2007-2013 LS Pull the oil pressure switch behind intake, remove filter screen from the bore, clean it or replace it.
@@shadowopsairman1583 thank you. At 263,000 miles I knew I needed an oil pump. Was showing very low oil pressure. But now it sounds like something is broke. Rod, lifter, who knows. I know it needed an overhaul. Now I think I'm passed that. It starts but sounds like rod could go threw the oil pan at any time. I know floored it won't pass 40 mph. I will not take the engine apart until I have the cash to do so. But if I did it would/ wouldn't ease my mind. 2000 z71 extended cab. 4x4 was my dad's. So I will be trying to keep it. I love that truck just sad to see it in this shape.☹️👎🏻
Wrong diagnosis if the ball valve was leaking the front half of that plunger would just leak oil and not filter all the oil, the critical part is the rear sealing part of the plunger that's where you would leak oil back to the motor and lose pressure the oil filter doesn't control pressure only if the bypass valve is not working and the filter is clogged then you will have problems. one problem with LS motor i thought with the engines was this oil filters too small not enough filter capacity and the PCV valve system should have clean air valve covers and PCV valve in the Valley cover with fossils and valve covers good baffle next time I build a LS motor I plan to run the PCV valve in the center Valley cover with the baffle and run fresh air into both valve covers filter air also run a nice full flow oil filter remote oil filter like a pH 1 I called the old Ford Filter
2:12 If the purpose of this video is to sell the metal part, then this guy should be sacked: th plastic factory part is "perfectly acceptable". That being the case, and without identifying any defects with the OEM part, then potential customers would be better off spending their $26 elsewhere.
This video is full of inaccuracies.... From the description of oil back pressure, to saying "nitron" seal?? It's either Viton or Nitrile not Nitron. Nitron is a chemical used to test for nitric acid content not a type of rubber. No need for this. Gm power train has tested the crap out if this piece. Waste of money. I've seen many LS engines making reliable power up with boost up to 1000 up and never seen one go bad...ffs
don't understand one bit; dahell is that,and why is it there; been rebuilding engines for 40 years never saw that; is that some sort of trap by some smart º.º manuf!?
"You are going to lose pressure without that dumbbell" ??.....Dumbbell......You just Bypass the oil filter, probably regain the pressure lost through the oil filter.....That $26 replacement part is just blowing money smoke at your forgetful mind... Many other Mfg's just drive brass cup plugs in there.....Oooooh, and don't run the engine without something retaining that sucker in place.....
Lost pressure is BS. Pressure gauge switch is up stream from the diverter.. Notice how he fumbles & stumbles around the lost oil pressure issue. He can't describe why because it doesn't lose oil pressure. It is just a diverter placed in line to get oil to flow through the passages that the filter is screwed to. Without it there is no filtration.
Line drilling all the way through the block is a complete lazy move on gms behalf. It's a feather in the cap to poor workmanship and planned obsolescence Just do another setup and drill from the back so theres no need for the part in the first place. Instead they created this part that will fail. The correct fix for this is to press in a bronze plug past the outlet port of the oil filter
that would be a pain to remove and clean that gallery if you ever needed to tear the engine down for a rebuild. this works fairly well even though it is a little weird.
Exactly 🤨. Not one person ive met lately thinks this complex on figuring anything out for themselves all the possibilities for any type of problematic thing they may or may not run across. Ignorant ppl piss me off. But totally resonate with your comment 100% 😊
@@milojanis4901 production cost you must build like 300 motors a day weld her up this isn't meant to be a smart remark I'm just saying if you build two to three motors a week two to three motors a month then it isn't a production issue problem solved I know why GM does it and you're right production cost
@@darrinbega302 Wasn't being smart. Production costs/beancounters rule GMs every movement, and decision. GM isn't the only one, either. Yes, I guess you could weld it, but welding 'shifts' things if it's done with excessive heat. I would rather make up a 1/2"-3/4" long aluminum, or brass, plug, and press it in to the correct position. But it's overkill. The factory barbell works OK, and this aftermarket item, for $26, is even better... .....
I wasn't taking your comment as negative I worked for GM for almost 20 years I know the deal I'm just saying because I have done it it's not complicated as long as you take your time works for me never had an issue Yes you could probably plug it the same thing I'm talking about like the home mechanic building a motor I built many motors in my garage and I just welded up and I thank you for your comment and yes you can plug it also done deal I won't have to worry about the dumbbell Nice talking to you
![BOWKYLION - วิงวอน (ex-change) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/cLdnZWDaO-w/mqdefault.jpg)
The factory one is designed to keep oil pressure up on the bearings even if the filter starts to get plugged.
Spends 5 mins trying to sell barbell, reason? "It can mess up oil pressures and stuff"
Thanks for that technical breakdown.
He musta listened to a ted talk, now he's a pro engineer for LS engines.
@@gadgetdeez7069 2 year old comment fresh seen by my eyes... I'm dead lol
Do not use a metal barbell that has a second o-ring. The oil galleys that go from the filter up to this main galley has sharp ridges where they intersect. If you use a barbell with a second o-ring, it will catch on those edges and tear. The broken pieces will go through your engine and oil will leak past the barbell. The ones that do not have a 2nd o-ring have a very tight tolerance to the oil galley. Nothing over 20 microns is getting past it.
You don't "lose oil pressure " if you leave it out from "backpressure " from going through the filter (if you did have "back pressure" in you filter you would need a lot more than the oil diverter)...... you lose oil pressure from the passage going straight to the back cover as nd dumping in the oil pan, ..... second we build tons of high hp ls engines, turbo,blower, nitrous ect, hot oil, big pressure ect, us nor any customer that I have ever talked to or heard of has had a plastic one fail.
Sounds like you need your own TH-cam channel Mr expert engine builder 🤣
@@lazurus222 I do.. and I am a Engine Builder and run a full Machine shop and grind Camshafts in house, so Yeah😇
@@powellmachineinc He's doing a paid promotion mate. Selling a part . Awesome you have that knowledge though .
@@lazurus222 If I were paying to have a "promotion" filmed i would expect accurate information, wouldn't you?
@@powellmachineinc uhh they probably scripted this for him , that's the whole promotion thing, they pay him to tell him what to say to his 16k subscriber audience .
plastic works fine/ In all the years of this engine the plastic has never failed
I never saw anyone ever explain it! Thanks!
Knew that piece existed, but didn’t know what it did. TNX
I would recommend you take this time to stop and think about this for a minute. Any time you think you are learning something you should always question the person making positive claims. This guy has something to gain by telling you this garbage. This goes for anything in life.
Ex. Kirby vacuum salesman that sells you a piece of shit vacuum for more than a car.
Ex. I used to think that all these aftermarket parts was upgrades for a 4l60e transmission. And aside from a hardened input shaft and output shaft(and I’m not certain on even this) the factory parts will be better than the $10000 worth the billet parts. There’s not much you can do about the 3/4 clutch it’s just not gonna be able to take the load. The piston is too small.
The worst of them all is the false prophets televangelist that take bible scripture out of context and make you feel like if you don’t send them every cent of money you got you will go to hell.
This guy is not trying to do anything but sell some bullshit that will destroy your engine while lining his pockets. Don’t learn from people that don’t know shit about an engine.
The smallblock chevy has a similar feature for the same reason, a metal plug inserted in the oil channel. Like the LS barbell, not having it in place - or broken/leaking - does not affect your oil pressure but it WILL destroy your engine since it effectively bypasses the oil filter.
Small chevy does not. The closest thing to this is the oil filter bypass valve that literally bolts to the inside of the oil filter boss that provides the threads that your filter screws on to. If those fail, you can eventually over time mess some stuff up. Thats why they ovver the adapters without a bypass in the aftermarket. Meanwhile gen1 sbc does NOT have anything even remotely like this.. all oil galleys are wide open and can easily be rodded or cleaned with a bottle brush without obstruction.
@@gadgetdeez7069 Sorry, but you have either misunderstood my statement or lack knowledge. The inlet and outlet channels to/from the filter is one (1) drilled hole, partitioned by a post-drilling inserted blanking plug.
@@gadgetdeez7069 next time you have a small block Chevy apart, follow the oil passage that goes through the rear main cap into the block. That passage goes all the way to the top of the block where the oil sending unit threads in. That passage has a plug pressed in that directs the oil from the pump to the filter. Without that plug, oil can and will bypass the filter.
Any chance you could explain what the part does? Thanks
When the block is machined, the oil gallery runs the whole length of the engine block. This barbell part blocks off the oil gallery in a specific spot, so the oil is diverted through the oil filter. It's not intended to move. Without it, you'd have unfiltered oil running through the engine.
The OEM one never fail waste of money
Viton or Nitrile.
I hope that helps.
T.S. RACING
T.S RACING is the Best!!!
Pity they don't include silicon o ring upgrade too, I use caterpillar yellow ones.
The pink ones r better
Viton should be the best choice
It's really important for ls engine
1:57 he sounds so excited explaining it lol
Hey I just finished cramming my head full of LS oil flow path data. It's a wonder I could still form coherent sentences :)
@@Grassrootsmotorsports And you have no clue what youre talking about lol
Keep the stock barbell. Our machine shop builds more ls engines than you can imagine. They say this is utter nonsense.
Sounds like they gotta guilty conscience and don’t wanna admit it
Go to powel machine. Decide if you respect his Professionalism, or think He is intentionally steering you wrong, Or has a guilty conscience because he doesn't want you to succeed.
I hit the button as hard as i possibly can, but now my monitor is sitting on the floor, pink and green and i cant see anything on it anymore
WTF are you babbling about?
@@milojanis4901 towards the end of the video, he says hit the subscribe button as hard as you can.
I like the seal at both end . More engine block friendly . And seal cold and hot . But you can add a seal missing on the original one . Assuming the plastic one is not press fitted . If the original one as a tight fit ? It's a non issue
But why would oil pressure decrease? Wouldn't it just bypass the filter?
Volume increases, pressure decreases
@@reggieanderson885 It Did Not Change Da
You are right about the oil pressure. This guy is full of crap. The oil filters "back pressure" has nothing to do with creating oil pressure. Bearing clearances dictate that. This dude is just trying to sell something that does nothing. The factory piece will be there after the engine is junked. Save your $26.
He is right about loss of pressure if the plug was missing completely. Oil would just blow right pass the dog bone and shoot right out the hole in the back of the block 👍
@@nickb2657 Bullshit, the oil would simply bypass the filter. Oil pressure would remain the same and NOTHING would "shoot" out the hole in the back of the block.
I want to see where the dog bone goes. How do you get to it? Take it out and put it in? You holding one in your hand and pointing out oil galilerys doesn't tell me enough.
What happenes if I lost pressure due to changing the rear main seal can I change it out still because it's still leaking
Consider canceling the video and redo it
Ls3 is a GenIV not a GenIII
You're correct. But once you get that number three in your mouth sometimes is sticks. Sorry about the misspeak.
Thank you
I Hit the like button so hard i broke my screen
This is a guy that knows a little of something and misrepresenting it to the world as if he's a reliable source. The barbell is responsible for 2 things and 2 things only. Diverting oil coming from the pump into the filter. It is also responsible for corking the back of the main oil galley so that oil goes up the block toward the oil pressure sensor to lube rods, mains and cam rather than just dumping out into the oil pan after fire hosing the rear cover. The leakage on the oem barbell is minimal. Theres at max less than 20psi across the front of it, and system pressure on the rear o-ring which is held into the block by the back cover. Do you need one of those fancy ass barbells? Actually no .... No you dont. The ONLY reason that you'd want to get one is to omit the front o-ring (because they always get cut on the ports when you press them in and leave rubber chunks in your oil system) and have a solid seal for the back of the main oil galley that wont deteriorate over time. I've never seen a stock barbell fail, but that doesnt mean its not possible. Also, if the partition wasnt there that diverts oil to the filter, you'd actually have BETTER oil pressure, as theres a pressure drop across the filter and pressure is read AFTER the filter. Ao this guy doesnt know what the hell he's talking about .... Smh
Engineers make "mistakes " on purpose to create problems and sell parts to solve those issues.
Thanks to that mechanics have a lot of work and am one of them!.
Smart info right here!
So I'm guessing u have to pull the engine to replace said bone??
Yes. Right behind flexplate.
@@brett3522 Appreciate it
Does this also affect the LS2?
Improved Racing designed this billet aluminum rear galley plug (commonly known as the "barbell") for Gen III and IV GM LS series engines to improve oil flow and completely eliminate dirty engine oil from bypassing the filter. This part is recommended for replacing the plastic OEM plug in any engine build.
Just 3 & 4
All ls
LS2 is Gen 3, so…
Is that the same on a dry-sump LS7???
The whole gen3 gen4 LS family uses the exact same setup. The only difference with LS7/LS9 dry sump is the pumps have a primary suction stage that clears the crankcase and dumps it into your oil tank. The oil tank then is plumbed to the pressure stage that pressurizes the block the same way as any other gen3/gen4 right through the same oil gallery.
Can I use this on a stock LS. Possibly why my engine is lost oil pressure and has been a lawn ornament.
Yes you can!
All LS, flush the engine using CRC/K&W 5 minute Engine flush, drain oil. Drop oil pan clean pan, windage tray, oil pickup tube of varnish. Replace oil pickup tube o ring,replace oil pan gasket. Use AC Delco or Purolator, NAPA Filters Only. Oil Valvoline/Castrol/AmsOil Synthetic. 5W30.
200,000 miles, get a Melling High Volume oil pump, replace timing chain/gear.
2007-2013 LS
Pull the oil pressure switch behind intake, remove filter screen from the bore, clean it or replace it.
@@shadowopsairman1583 thank you. At 263,000 miles I knew I needed an oil pump. Was showing very low oil pressure. But now it sounds like something is broke. Rod, lifter, who knows. I know it needed an overhaul. Now I think I'm passed that. It starts but sounds like rod could go threw the oil pan at any time. I know floored it won't pass 40 mph. I will not take the engine apart until I have the cash to do so. But if I did it would/ wouldn't ease my mind. 2000 z71 extended cab. 4x4 was my dad's. So I will be trying to keep it. I love that truck just sad to see it in this shape.☹️👎🏻
@@shadowopsairman1583 I will be following this info that you recommend to the T. Thanks again.
EVERY LS, including yours, MUST have the barbell restrictor in place. Either this one, or the stock piece... .
Wrong diagnosis if the ball valve was leaking the front half of that plunger would just leak oil and not filter all the oil, the critical part is the rear sealing part of the plunger that's where you would leak oil back to the motor and lose pressure the oil filter doesn't control pressure only if the bypass valve is not working and the filter is clogged then you will have problems. one problem with LS motor i thought with the engines was this oil filters too small not enough filter capacity and the PCV valve system should have clean air valve covers and PCV valve in the Valley cover with fossils and valve covers good baffle next time I build a LS motor I plan to run the PCV valve in the center Valley cover with the baffle and run fresh air into both valve covers filter air also run a nice full flow oil filter remote oil filter like a pH 1 I called the old Ford Filter
Dang, so many opions about this thing. Is carb better then injection? 😂
Nitron rubbers hahaha lol!
Yes, my girlfriend is allergic to Nitron.
@@t.s.racing Nitrile, it's Nitrile! Still funny, nice!
How do you check/replace one?
It's under the rear cover, you can't check it, just change it out for good measure anytime the rear cover is off.
2:12 If the purpose of this video is to sell the metal part, then this guy should be sacked: th plastic factory part is "perfectly acceptable". That being the case, and without identifying any defects with the OEM part, then potential customers would be better off spending their $26 elsewhere.
Does 5.3 has one ? 07 avalanche .
Curious ab this myself
All LS based engines have them.
How can you lose oil pressure from not having the barbell in? What back pressure from the oil filter you are talking about? None of that makes sense
I have NEVER EVER heard of a barbell going bad - total scam.
2 minutes could of explained this vs 5
First of all it’s a gen 4 block, secondly it’s a viton O-ring.
This video is full of inaccuracies.... From the description of oil back pressure, to saying "nitron" seal?? It's either Viton or Nitrile not Nitron. Nitron is a chemical used to test for nitric acid content not a type of rubber. No need for this. Gm power train has tested the crap out if this piece. Waste of money. I've seen many LS engines making reliable power up with boost up to 1000 up and never seen one go bad...ffs
This guy is an actor not an expert. A lot of misrepresentation & inaccuracy in this video. Atleast he calls it a Barbell & also Dogbone.....
don't understand one bit; dahell is that,and why is it there; been rebuilding engines for 40 years never saw that; is that some sort of trap by some smart º.º manuf!?
You didn't show it goes you talk talk talk where did the dog bone go
This guy doesn’t even know what engine he has, it’s a gen 4 and continues to call it gen 3
I'll bet he couldn't show you where it goes.
WOW, only 26 bucks?
It's like $2 for aluminum and $1 for the Orings and about 1 minute for the cnc lathe to make it. They are making an absolute killing on it
"You are going to lose pressure without that dumbbell" ??.....Dumbbell......You just Bypass the oil filter, probably
regain the pressure lost through the oil filter.....That $26 replacement part is just blowing money smoke at your forgetful mind...
Many other Mfg's just drive brass cup plugs in there.....Oooooh, and don't run the engine without something
retaining that sucker in place.....
Lost pressure is BS. Pressure gauge switch is up stream from the diverter.. Notice how he fumbles & stumbles around the lost oil pressure issue. He can't describe why because it doesn't lose oil pressure. It is just a diverter placed in line to get oil to flow through the passages that the filter is screwed to. Without it there is no filtration.
Ok
It's NOT A MOTOR IT'S AN ENGINE!!!
Last time I checked most oil company’s put “motor oil” on their bottles. Calling it a motor or an engine really doesn’t fuckin matter😂
Yes it is. 🤡
Click bait. The LS is one of the longest lasting engines on the market.
Line drilling all the way through the block is a complete lazy move on gms behalf. It's a feather in the cap to poor workmanship and planned obsolescence Just do another setup and drill from the back so theres no need for the part in the first place. Instead they created this part that will fail. The correct fix for this is to press in a bronze plug past the outlet port of the oil filter
that would be a pain to remove and clean that gallery if you ever needed to tear the engine down for a rebuild. this works fairly well even though it is a little weird.
Not really considering LS engine generally live well past 200k miles being beat on lol I’d be far more worried about the DoD system lol
I've wondered why 2 threaded allen pipe plugs weren't used here. (Same kind of pipe plugs used above the cam bearing at the back of a SBC.)
Yeah GM definately doesn't know what they're doing that's why everyone hates LS motors and won't use them for swaps.
@@animus13racer they cut corners on this aspect of the design
Can I still get the pressure back ⬇️ i comment below
Why don't you just weld that s*** closed in between the two passages
Exactly 🤨. Not one person ive met lately thinks this complex on figuring anything out for themselves all the possibilities for any type of problematic thing they may or may not run across. Ignorant ppl piss me off. But totally resonate with your comment 100% 😊
Production costs.
@@milojanis4901 production cost you must build like 300 motors a day weld her up this isn't meant to be a smart remark I'm just saying if you build two to three motors a week two to three motors a month then it isn't a production issue problem solved I know why GM does it and you're right production cost
@@darrinbega302 Wasn't being smart. Production costs/beancounters rule GMs every movement, and decision. GM isn't the only one, either. Yes, I guess you could weld it, but welding 'shifts' things if it's done with excessive heat. I would rather make up a 1/2"-3/4" long aluminum, or brass, plug, and press it in to the correct position. But it's overkill. The factory barbell works OK, and this aftermarket item, for $26, is even better... .....
I wasn't taking your comment as negative I worked for GM for almost 20 years I know the deal I'm just saying because I have done it it's not complicated as long as you take your time works for me never had an issue Yes you could probably plug it the same thing I'm talking about like the home mechanic building a motor I built many motors in my garage and I just welded up and I thank you for your comment and yes you can plug it also done deal I won't have to worry about the dumbbell Nice talking to you
Hand grenade would work
Same thing i was thinking. 🤓
i am view # 69,000 Ha Ha Haaaaaaa
Thank you for being the hero we deserve.
Also, nice.
Are you saying that "sucks"