Important news: By changing the driver_SGTHRS value (printer.cfg) from 65 to 85 the homing of Y axis is perfect. I got new firmware from Sovol, should solve the Z-offset problem. Probably there will be a Follow-up video.
what kind of fan is used on power supply ? dimensions and voltage ? as it seems to be the loudest thing on printer and will be probably first to change to make printer more quiet. thank you :)
I like the cheap display, I don't use it and in case I'd rather use a Klipperscreen on the HDMI. I also like that it does not come with panels, I can cut those myself. I'd like a version with no tool head or at least no extruder / hotend, I would change that anyway. Yeah it's a good projects, it needs some extra tuning tho.
I don’t think they’ll ship that but if you’re into it it’s just mounted on a linear rail and a custom tool could be mounted probably as it’s just a standard mount (I think?)
Thanks for the great video. I really like the idea of the SV08 and have an SV06 as well as an SV06 plus. The issue with Sovol is their software and the fact their engineers don't seem to understand klipper very well. It shows they are struggling to set it up correctly. Hopefully, they will fix the issues soon. The customers should not have to fix it. Know that being said, this printer is great for those who who like to mod and tinker with klipper. And the community will likely make this printer much better. But again, if Sovol wants to sell this to new people to 3d printing, they have a lot of work to do. I will probably pick one up when the price drops. My K1 is amazing now that I mooded and rooted it, but the build volume is too small for some of my projects. So the SV08 seems like a good option. Especially if the k2 plus is too expensive. Not interested in paying 1000$ + for a printer at this point. Especially with the crazy inflation here in Canada.
Some feedback about the video: 1. I would have liked to see more printing bigger and different objects and filaments with the machine. It has a big build area so people will want to print big things, and it's a Voron clone so people will want to print big things FAST. So flowrate, part cooling and mechanical reliability etc. is something that should be tested. I also think this is such a major printer release that it would warrant a review video part 2 where you tested out these things - perhaps after a firmware update which hopefully would solve the issues you noticed in the video. 2. I don't know if it's a Klipper thing, but in my experience on my SV06 Plus + Sovol Klipper Pad, I have found that maximum acceleration and speed settings are always re-read from the printer config file (printer.cfg) upon reboot, resetting whatever you set before power off. Perhaps this is the same with the Z-offset in this case - did you try editing the printer.cfg file and adding it in there directly? Overall, this video is a good start, but we want to see more! :)
Thank you for the feedback. In the meantime I did bigger prints too, only I was late anyway for the video (they wanted it on Aug. 18th, the promotion date). This printer deservs a follow-up video, because if all issues will be fixed, this will be a great printer (I already solved the strong sensorless homing problem, it's in first PIN comment now). Waiting the Z-offset solution, firmware update etc.
It's been 3 weeks since you posted the video. Maybe by this time some of the problems will be resolved? What is the thickness of the bed? The Voron 2.4 has 3/8" thick mic6 bed. Many other printers have .25" or even .125 thick aluminum for the bed. Do you think this printer is a big improvement over older printers like CR-10? Have you seen the QiDi max-3 printer? I'm looking for a good printer of 350mm x 350mm or as small as 300mm square. What are your thoughts?
If shouldn't be much more than copying parts of the macro it ran on first calibration and adding it to the start of the print_start macro so it runs at the beginning of every print.
One thought from a different reviewer about the Z offset is to heat soak the bed for like 5 minutes, then start the print. This fixed the issue for that person...
The advantage to the bed being at the top is that the moving parts stay in the same place so the vibrations of the machine will stay the same. This will make the resonance compensation work better through the course of a very tall print.
I love this kind of minimum priced machine. I don’t understand why people want to pay more for automated bed leveling. I mean I normally spend 10x more times on designing the parts in 3d/cad softwares. The time spent on printing is always negligible. Isn’t that every one who use 3d printer have to design the parts themselves? I would rather have automated 3d software instead 😂
Thanks for such an informative and honest video. I have one in my basket, but I think I will hold off until your text video report. Meny thanks. Mike Irish.
Just a side-note: please upload the video at least in 1440p. If you can't natively record and edit in 1440p then please at least upscale to 1440p before uploading. TH-cam has always had better quality in 1080p to 1440p upscaled videos, but recently it actively reduces bitrate on 1080p videos to sell pro subcriptions and it really hurts the image quality. It is a waste of the good content to have to watch it in bad quality.
Hm. I didn't know. Any written articles about this? I am planning to move to 4k, but with Canon SL3, they "forgot to mention" that in 4k we have serious limitations, image is cropped and the most important dual auto focus doesn't work in 4k. So I need another camera, but no more Canon :-(
@@MyTechFun In terms of what camera to use there is a huge community of creators recommending a varienty of cameras. I think the super premium one is the Sony Alpha 7S III for 3500 USD. The Panasonic Lumix GH6 is a more reasonable option for 2200. Used should be about half that price. I have no idea what your budget is, you can ask the community for cheaper options. And if you decide not to upgrade your camera then upscaling before uploading helps as well and it's completely free.
Awesome review! Btw measuring flow by mass might me more accurate, but it doesn't reflect to real world printing scenario because it doesn't include things like swell etc. So the method you used is better imho 😊
You should measure both independently. Flow is interesting for maximum Volume/Time. In terms of shrinkage and extrusion multiplier you should consider using the something like the califlower for example.
This is a no go for me. I was sitting on the fence to order this one. But the list of problems is just to big. But maybe at a later time, IF sovol fixes the issues.
If you make a new video update on this machine. Can you retry the wifi network solution. Being able to have the machine in one room/building and operating it in another is a timesaver.
Grinding belts on sensorless homing, terrible interface are deal breakers for me. Seems rushed out, would have been more onboard if they even attempted to qualify it for MMU add-ons like the Enraged Rabbit .....since they are clearly chasing Voron and have given up competing with Bambu.
they have an ams coming. The belts skipping on homing is 1 of 2 things, belts not tight or too low a setting on the driver_SGTRHS, both of which can be adjusted in less than 1 minute. As for the screen, I use the same one on my printers. It's all you need to adjust the Z and load and unload filament. Everything else gets done through Mainsail or Fluiid.
Its a great printer for a price.. buts that why i bought a bambu a1 mini coz it prints out of the box, i dont need to minmax my z offset and other stuff, other company should learn from bambu and make the calibrations automatic and good.
I think this will be a good machine. There has been some issues with firmware etc. but I think Solvol was under a lot of pressure to ship printers for TH-cam reviews, so they had to take a chance that the machine was not completely finished. The SV08 is probably the machine in their company history with the highest capital investment put into it. Just the tooling of the plastic base, with four horizontal slides, will cost more than 100K USD, even in China. Then you have the moulds for the plastic parts on the gantry, extrusion dies for aluminium "legs" etc. Solvol can't afford this machine to fail and not sell due to bad engineering and firmware issues. There are probably investors pushing in the back who want to see their investment pay back, and a bad machine will not generate revenue in the long run. Hence it is of Solvols best interest to update and refine the machine and get positive reviews. Comparing this to a Voron is not accurate. The capital investment in tooling for a Voron is near zero. To make Voron kits you need a saw to cut the profiles and a 3D printer.
Yes, slowly step-by-step I am solving all main problems mentioned in the video.. I was under light pressure to publish the video ASAP, since it should be released on Apr.18 (I was late anyway). Probably there will be a follow-up video with solved problems and much more test prints.
Voron 2.4 can have any runout sensor you want. There are many options out there. You can pick which one you want. Saying a Voron 2.4 doesn't have X is just not true most of the time, as the builder gets to decide what it has.
10mm belt may be stiff, but metal lead screw should be better (as long as anti-backlash nuts are in correct orientation 😅). Also having levelling on 4 corners must bend the gantry at some point, and flexible gantry might not be best option for good for XY-motion. Otherwise, this printer and Qidi Pro (though with massively oversized shell) seem to be great. 3D printer year 2024 starts to look very promising 😉
Thank you for this review. Very good. I ordered one at early bird price. For me its okay to work on klipper. Especially for this low price printer and a good community. The mechanics looks pretty well. PSU should be changed or at least the fan. No problem. Did it on all my printers :-D
I know there's a market for this printer, but for me personally, bambu has spoiled me. I want things to work out of the box now. I don't want to have to wait for firmware updates and community mods and fixes to get the printer i want.
.4 over 14" is nothing, I have a machine worse than that on a smaller bed and it prints fine. Bambu has variations larger than that and they print fine also.
Thanks for the great review! One question; I see many reviewers including you, experiencing high pitched whining from the stepper motors when it's moving fast. However, the SV08 should be equipped with TMC 2209's, and I use those myself at 1.15V, where they're dead silent. Have you tried testing what voltage SV08 use them at, just for the fun of it? I'm curious, because the stepper drivers are similar, but the noise level is night and day between my printer and the SV08. It could also mean an early burn-out. But it might also just be true to them being a different brand, but since the TMC 2209's support up to 28V for motor supply and up logic voltage up to 5V, it might also just be a far more aggressive tuning than what I use.
I don't know if this is relevant or not but at least the 2209's in my Sovol SV06 Plus are definitely not that noisy. The SV08 steppers in the reviews that I have seen sounds similar to my ancient 2014 GeeeTech Prusa i3 Pro B with the old Allegro 4-something-something (4480?) drivers.
I am not sure is it a fake thing or real, but there are some videos (2) about crooked plastic parts. The one wich holds the bearing. When i first saw those injection molded parts, i already had some questions about it. Some people says they are ok, because even the Voron has 3D printed plastic parts. But! In my experience 3D printed parts are much stronger than injection molded ones. Or at least there are ways to make them stronger, stiffer. Not sure if its because of the material, or the lamination, the infill. Anyway. If those parts tend to crook, that will be a big issue.
With the same material and geometry, injection moulded parts will always be stronger than 3D printed parts. If you add glass or carbonfiber in the plastic, even more so. In an injection moulded part the fibers will not be separated by the layer lines like in 3D printing, hence it will be much stronger.
as usual neve buy the first version .... let's wait for the next one that for sure it will come out soon as Sovol does every time (i.e. sv06 and sv07 at a distance of 6 months....).
Z offset calibrating is one reason why i switched to Bambu P1S. Had several chinese printers over the years and none of them (even with BLtouch) nailed the z-offset like my Bambu does. Don‘t wanna go back to setting offset for hours. Otherwise it looks like a really good value for the money and i’m sure the problems will soon be fixed via software or mods!
Not sure if you’re making the distinction, but Bambu Lab printers are Chinese and their servers are in china. Doesn’t bother me because there are both good and bad quality things made in china.
I think that this is both common and ill-founded, I have a couple of the cheapest printers (Ender3 and N2S) and they both are consistent and stable on Z, so are those of my buddy. The issue is that you have to tighten both the bed and the gantry if it's manual, use a fixed support for the probe if you use one.
@@haysoos123 I understand what you try to say. And it was not meant that Bambu is not a chinese brand, but way more hightech that the other 250€ printers on the market. I personally just love my P1S and don‘t want to go back. Quality is just on another level when its calibrated.
@@JosephStory I‘ll bring you my Ender-3 S1 ;-) Even after changing the firmware to klipper, replacing the bed and ABL probe it hasn‘t functioned right and always got bad mesh an z-offset values. This machine was a pure desaster and others had simmilar issues as i found out on the internet. It has nothing to do with me not knowing how to set the height, rather then with selling a broken printer right out of the box. Thats the whole point of what i try to say. The Video reminded me of this nightmare of a printer. After all this time i invested in the Ender i‘m just happy to have a printer that smashes the z-Offset every time.
sorry for pointing this out, but this power supply fan noise is so annoying. the idea of copying a voron is good, the motion system and the hardware (besides the fan obviously) seem to be also pretty good. but as for most chinese 3d printer companies the printer has some obvious defects on release. i dont know if they rush it for no reason or if the problem is that they are good in building a printer (hardware) rather than having a good product to print on (hardware + software: z-offset calibrated etc). unfortunately, the uncertainty of whether they will fix all the problems in the future or not would prevent me from buying this nice piece of hardware for a pretty competitive price. i would rather get something more expensive with worse motion system, but that will have a hassle free printing experience for me
What I'm always asking myself: if they didn't manage to "finish" the product how possibly can they have tested it properly for artifacts like VFA and other subtle defects?
@@themountain59 yeah got caught in their advertisement. If it looks too good to be true it probably is... that printer finished a Single print then comitted suicide
Skipping teeth on the belt seems a bad thing. That means the resolution is 2mm (tooth spacing). If it skips motor steps the location resolution would be much smaller when it reaches the end of its travel. I was under the impression that the sensorless homing sensed (not really sensorless) the stepper current using the driver chips, this shouldn’t make any noise.
Important news: By changing the driver_SGTHRS value (printer.cfg) from 65 to 85 the homing of Y axis is perfect. I got new firmware from Sovol, should solve the Z-offset problem. Probably there will be a Follow-up video.
We're all looking forward to it. Thank you. Great job!
what kind of fan is used on power supply ? dimensions and voltage ? as it seems to be the loudest thing on printer and will be probably first to change to make printer more quiet. thank you :)
Very good!
@@J0stik yes .. good question , it could even be nice if sovol change the psu fan before shipping the machine :)
@cryoglobe the problem is they don't make the PSU, it's usually a premade component.
I ordered one, taking the chance it's a solid machine. Thanks for the review, you reviews are always trustworthy and thorough.
I like the cheap display, I don't use it and in case I'd rather use a Klipperscreen on the HDMI. I also like that it does not come with panels, I can cut those myself.
I'd like a version with no tool head or at least no extruder / hotend, I would change that anyway.
Yeah it's a good projects, it needs some extra tuning tho.
I don’t think they’ll ship that but if you’re into it it’s just mounted on a linear rail and a custom tool could be mounted probably as it’s just a standard mount (I think?)
Thanks for the great video. I really like the idea of the SV08 and have an SV06 as well as an SV06 plus. The issue with Sovol is their software and the fact their engineers don't seem to understand klipper very well. It shows they are struggling to set it up correctly. Hopefully, they will fix the issues soon. The customers should not have to fix it. Know that being said, this printer is great for those who who like to mod and tinker with klipper. And the community will likely make this printer much better. But again, if Sovol wants to sell this to new people to 3d printing, they have a lot of work to do. I will probably pick one up when the price drops. My K1 is amazing now that I mooded and rooted it, but the build volume is too small for some of my projects. So the SV08 seems like a good option. Especially if the k2 plus is too expensive. Not interested in paying 1000$ + for a printer at this point. Especially with the crazy inflation here in Canada.
Some feedback about the video:
1. I would have liked to see more printing bigger and different objects and filaments with the machine. It has a big build area so people will want to print big things, and it's a Voron clone so people will want to print big things FAST. So flowrate, part cooling and mechanical reliability etc. is something that should be tested. I also think this is such a major printer release that it would warrant a review video part 2 where you tested out these things - perhaps after a firmware update which hopefully would solve the issues you noticed in the video.
2. I don't know if it's a Klipper thing, but in my experience on my SV06 Plus + Sovol Klipper Pad, I have found that maximum acceleration and speed settings are always re-read from the printer config file (printer.cfg) upon reboot, resetting whatever you set before power off. Perhaps this is the same with the Z-offset in this case - did you try editing the printer.cfg file and adding it in there directly?
Overall, this video is a good start, but we want to see more! :)
Thank you for the feedback. In the meantime I did bigger prints too, only I was late anyway for the video (they wanted it on Aug. 18th, the promotion date). This printer deservs a follow-up video, because if all issues will be fixed, this will be a great printer (I already solved the strong sensorless homing problem, it's in first PIN comment now). Waiting the Z-offset solution, firmware update etc.
Another year, another 100mm/s added to everyone's claimed print speed. xD
Yo this does 40k accel.
Or so they say!
It's been 3 weeks since you posted the video. Maybe by this time some of the problems will be resolved? What is the thickness of the bed? The Voron 2.4 has 3/8" thick mic6 bed. Many other printers have .25" or even .125 thick aluminum for the bed. Do you think this printer is a big improvement over older printers like CR-10? Have you seen the QiDi max-3 printer? I'm looking for a good printer of 350mm x 350mm or as small as 300mm square. What are your thoughts?
The first firmware update will fix the z offset problem and the auto z set.
If shouldn't be much more than copying parts of the macro it ran on first calibration and adding it to the start of the print_start macro so it runs at the beginning of every print.
One thought from a different reviewer about the Z offset is to heat soak the bed for like 5 minutes, then start the print. This fixed the issue for that person...
Who is that reviewer? Feel free to post the link (or if YT don't allow link, write name of channel). Thx.
@@MyTechFun th-cam.com/video/NZsbpZ0Z_yQ/w-d-xo.htmlsi=lJNbsCGctfRaOMUu
It was Lost In Tech.
The advantage to the bed being at the top is that the moving parts stay in the same place so the vibrations of the machine will stay the same. This will make the resonance compensation work better through the course of a very tall print.
Thank you. Looking forward to when they add PMW fans to power supplies 😂
Got one for $449, hard to pass up at that price. Currently running just a bambu X1C, looking forward to having a bigger printer!
thank you ! great revviews ! like your channel - very interesting and straight forward option ! keep it up
Thanks for the video! I ordered an SV08 so looking forward to seeing them addressing some of these issues before the production units ship.
Very good review and your honesty is appreciated. Looking forward to the follow up video with the new firmware in place.
For the momentary price its quite a catch!👍
I love this kind of minimum priced machine. I don’t understand why people want to pay more for automated bed leveling. I mean I normally spend 10x more times on designing the parts in 3d/cad softwares. The time spent on printing is always negligible. Isn’t that every one who use 3d printer have to design the parts themselves? I would rather have automated 3d software instead 😂
Ordered 4, can't wait
Thanks for such an informative and honest video.
I have one in my basket, but I think I will hold off until your text video report.
Meny thanks.
Mike Irish.
Just a side-note: please upload the video at least in 1440p.
If you can't natively record and edit in 1440p then please at least upscale to 1440p before uploading.
TH-cam has always had better quality in 1080p to 1440p upscaled videos, but recently it actively reduces bitrate on 1080p videos to sell pro subcriptions and it really hurts the image quality.
It is a waste of the good content to have to watch it in bad quality.
Hm. I didn't know. Any written articles about this? I am planning to move to 4k, but with Canon SL3, they "forgot to mention" that in 4k we have serious limitations, image is cropped and the most important dual auto focus doesn't work in 4k. So I need another camera, but no more Canon :-(
@@MyTechFun Google > TH-cam Ramps Up "1080p Premium Enhanced Bitrate" scheme. Retroactively Reducing Bitrate On Many Videos.
@@MyTechFun In terms of what camera to use there is a huge community of creators recommending a varienty of cameras. I think the super premium one is the Sony Alpha 7S III for 3500 USD. The Panasonic Lumix GH6 is a more reasonable option for 2200. Used should be about half that price. I have no idea what your budget is, you can ask the community for cheaper options. And if you decide not to upgrade your camera then upscaling before uploading helps as well and it's completely free.
@@MyTechFun Premium Enhanced Bitrate is all i can say, I hope this comment makes it through the spam filter.
Awesome review!
Btw measuring flow by mass might me more accurate, but it doesn't reflect to real world printing scenario because it doesn't include things like swell etc. So the method you used is better imho 😊
You should measure both independently. Flow is interesting for maximum Volume/Time. In terms of shrinkage and extrusion multiplier you should consider using the something like the califlower for example.
@@towlnator sure but measuring flow based on weight won't reflect to real life printing.
This is a no go for me. I was sitting on the fence to order this one. But the list of problems is just to big. But maybe at a later time, IF sovol fixes the issues.
Thx for the review. What about TPU printing?
ordered mine in launch, i think first mod will be silent power supply fan :D then enclosure
19:07 lmao dummy thicc support structure
If you make a new video update on this machine. Can you retry the wifi network solution. Being able to have the machine in one room/building and operating it in another is a timesaver.
2.4 GHz Wifi works with latest Firmware
Grinding belts on sensorless homing, terrible interface are deal breakers for me. Seems rushed out, would have been more onboard if they even attempted to qualify it for MMU add-ons like the Enraged Rabbit .....since they are clearly chasing Voron and have given up competing with Bambu.
they have an ams coming. The belts skipping on homing is 1 of 2 things, belts not tight or too low a setting on the driver_SGTRHS, both of which can be adjusted in less than 1 minute. As for the screen, I use the same one on my printers. It's all you need to adjust the Z and load and unload filament. Everything else gets done through Mainsail or Fluiid.
Kiedy test drukarki T500 ?
Its a great printer for a price.. buts that why i bought a bambu a1 mini coz it prints out of the box, i dont need to minmax my z offset and other stuff, other company should learn from bambu and make the calibrations automatic and good.
Yeah it's weird that they still don't get that they can't sell unfinished products. The success of Bambu is well deserved.
I would not be at all happy with that homing noise, that cant be right.
How ya like the design of the sv08
It is very good for this price. Of course, it could be better, but it would raise the budget.
I think this will be a good machine. There has been some issues with firmware etc. but I think Solvol was under a lot of pressure to ship printers for TH-cam reviews, so they had to take a chance that the machine was not completely finished. The SV08 is probably the machine in their company history with the highest capital investment put into it. Just the tooling of the plastic base, with four horizontal slides, will cost more than 100K USD, even in China. Then you have the moulds for the plastic parts on the gantry, extrusion dies for aluminium "legs" etc. Solvol can't afford this machine to fail and not sell due to bad engineering and firmware issues. There are probably investors pushing in the back who want to see their investment pay back, and a bad machine will not generate revenue in the long run. Hence it is of Solvols best interest to update and refine the machine and get positive reviews. Comparing this to a Voron is not accurate. The capital investment in tooling for a Voron is near zero. To make Voron kits you need a saw to cut the profiles and a 3D printer.
Yes, slowly step-by-step I am solving all main problems mentioned in the video.. I was under light pressure to publish the video ASAP, since it should be released on Apr.18 (I was late anyway). Probably there will be a follow-up video with solved problems and much more test prints.
@@MyTechFun, looking forward to the new video!
Voron 2.4 can have any runout sensor you want. There are many options out there. You can pick which one you want. Saying a Voron 2.4 doesn't have X is just not true most of the time, as the builder gets to decide what it has.
10mm belt may be stiff, but metal lead screw should be better (as long as anti-backlash nuts are in correct orientation 😅).
Also having levelling on 4 corners must bend the gantry at some point, and flexible gantry might not be best option for good for XY-motion.
Otherwise, this printer and Qidi Pro (though with massively oversized shell) seem to be great. 3D printer year 2024 starts to look very promising 😉
Thank you for this review. Very good.
I ordered one at early bird price. For me its okay to work on klipper. Especially for this low price printer and a good community. The mechanics looks pretty well. PSU should be changed or at least the fan. No problem. Did it on all my printers :-D
I know there's a market for this printer, but for me personally, bambu has spoiled me. I want things to work out of the box now. I don't want to have to wait for firmware updates and community mods and fixes to get the printer i want.
0.4 bed mesh difference for this size is very bad actually. Unfortunately, looks like another rushed into market printer...
Yeah, my qidi plus3 with 280x280 bed has mesh of 0,15 (and its just mid class printer)
.4 over 14" is nothing, I have a machine worse than that on a smaller bed and it prints fine. Bambu has variations larger than that and they print fine also.
Thanks for the great review! One question; I see many reviewers including you, experiencing high pitched whining from the stepper motors when it's moving fast. However, the SV08 should be equipped with TMC 2209's, and I use those myself at 1.15V, where they're dead silent. Have you tried testing what voltage SV08 use them at, just for the fun of it? I'm curious, because the stepper drivers are similar, but the noise level is night and day between my printer and the SV08. It could also mean an early burn-out. But it might also just be true to them being a different brand, but since the TMC 2209's support up to 28V for motor supply and up logic voltage up to 5V, it might also just be a far more aggressive tuning than what I use.
I don't know if this is relevant or not but at least the 2209's in my Sovol SV06 Plus are definitely not that noisy. The SV08 steppers in the reviews that I have seen sounds similar to my ancient 2014 GeeeTech Prusa i3 Pro B with the old Allegro 4-something-something (4480?) drivers.
Great review, it seems like a nice printer, but can always be a bit better of course
I am not sure is it a fake thing or real, but there are some videos (2) about crooked plastic parts. The one wich holds the bearing.
When i first saw those injection molded parts, i already had some questions about it. Some people says they are ok, because even the Voron has 3D printed plastic parts. But! In my experience 3D printed parts are much stronger than injection molded ones. Or at least there are ways to make them stronger, stiffer. Not sure if its because of the material, or the lamination, the infill. Anyway. If those parts tend to crook, that will be a big issue.
With the same material and geometry, injection moulded parts will always be stronger than 3D printed parts. If you add glass or carbonfiber in the plastic, even more so. In an injection moulded part the fibers will not be separated by the layer lines like in 3D printing, hence it will be much stronger.
as usual neve buy the first version .... let's wait for the next one that for sure it will come out soon as Sovol does every time (i.e. sv06 and sv07 at a distance of 6 months....).
Let's hope they will refine it...
Z offset calibrating is one reason why i switched to Bambu P1S.
Had several chinese printers over the years and none of them (even with BLtouch) nailed the z-offset like my Bambu does. Don‘t wanna go back to setting offset for hours.
Otherwise it looks like a really good value for the money and i’m sure the problems will soon be fixed via software or mods!
Not sure if you’re making the distinction, but Bambu Lab printers are Chinese and their servers are in china. Doesn’t bother me because there are both good and bad quality things made in china.
I think that this is both common and ill-founded, I have a couple of the cheapest printers (Ender3 and N2S) and they both are consistent and stable on Z, so are those of my buddy. The issue is that you have to tighten both the bed and the gantry if it's manual, use a fixed support for the probe if you use one.
@@haysoos123 I understand what you try to say. And it was not meant that Bambu is not a chinese brand, but way more hightech that the other 250€ printers on the market.
I personally just love my P1S and don‘t want to go back. Quality is just on another level when its calibrated.
Bamboo labs, "great for those that can't figure out z-offset." Hours, really?
@@JosephStory I‘ll bring you my Ender-3 S1 ;-) Even after changing the firmware to klipper, replacing the bed and ABL probe it hasn‘t functioned right and always got bad mesh an z-offset values.
This machine was a pure desaster and others had simmilar issues as i found out on the internet. It has nothing to do with me not knowing how to set the height, rather then with selling a broken printer right out of the box. Thats the whole point of what i try to say. The Video reminded me of this nightmare of a printer.
After all this time i invested in the Ender i‘m just happy to have a printer that smashes the z-Offset every time.
sorry for pointing this out, but this power supply fan noise is so annoying. the idea of copying a voron is good, the motion system and the hardware (besides the fan obviously) seem to be also pretty good. but as for most chinese 3d printer companies the printer has some obvious defects on release. i dont know if they rush it for no reason or if the problem is that they are good in building a printer (hardware) rather than having a good product to print on (hardware + software: z-offset calibrated etc). unfortunately, the uncertainty of whether they will fix all the problems in the future or not would prevent me from buying this nice piece of hardware for a pretty competitive price. i would rather get something more expensive with worse motion system, but that will have a hassle free printing experience for me
What I'm always asking myself: if they didn't manage to "finish" the product how possibly can they have tested it properly for artifacts like VFA and other subtle defects?
I was going to pick 1 up but ill wait
Sadly it from Sovol, and after the t500 i just cant see me buying anything from them at anytime.
What an idiot, you bought the T500 ? 😂 Start making better choices man !
The comgrow was/is a dud...why would anybody spend cash on that??
@@themountain59 yeah got caught in their advertisement. If it looks too good to be true it probably is... that printer finished a Single print then comitted suicide
I tried my luck with their T300. It's holding up well for now
Skipping teeth on the belt seems a bad thing. That means the resolution is 2mm (tooth spacing). If it skips motor steps the location resolution would be much smaller when it reaches the end of its travel. I was under the impression that the sensorless homing sensed (not really sensorless) the stepper current using the driver chips, this shouldn’t make any noise.
0:14 "not sponsored, not paid" - then you repeat exact the same punch line about 40 hours voron build from the kit, yeah, right