Burgo here! Thanks so much for showcasing my toolhead! Im so happy with takeoff v2 at this point i did alot of changes which made it Cheaper Lighter And easier to put together! Ita definitely a chunky toolhead but for being in a close weight to stelathburner with easily 10x the cooling, capability for high flow rates, dealing with hot chambers. Id totally recommend monolith gantry by cloakedwayne as an upgrade though! 6mm belts have alot more stretch then 9mm at length so why not tackle longer belts and thicker at the same time!
I cant believe it, a week ago i was considering this toolhead and now FINALLY someone is covering it, not a single video about it, modbot you are on fire with these upgrades i cant wait for you to post about them, bravo for showing the shaper resaults you answered all my questions and got yourself a new subscriber
@@SerialChillerBHlocal business did the laser cutting. despite all the ads pcbway does, i was not happy with their slm work. I went with in3dtec for takeoff. And no z joints as this is a trident.
@@ModBotArmy did you already look at it it’s usb also vs can. He’s waiting for the betas to come in right now. I’ve been waiting for a Jupiter. I had a nitehawk36 but was one of the unlucky few that had issues in chambers
Thank you so much for pronouncing jaguar correctly. A lot of people around here pronounce it as "jag-wire" and it drives me insane. THERE ARE NO I's! 😂
I'm running Calamity toolhead, not takeoff but also get great Y results and messy X axis. Haven't figured out why yet but until then or as another video idea you could look into danger-klipper and using independent x/y accel limits. I've been doing it for a few months now and it works great. Basically, set your printer kinematics to limited_corexy instead of corexy and then you can set independent limits for x and y accel.
That Stealthburner CAN head misalignment killed my printer's control network around a year and a half ago. It's a damn shame they're still making those with absolutely no changes, especially as there's exactly zero need for a CAN output header on the fan control daughterboard.
@LukesLaboratory at 11:37 he says he hasn't taken the fans above 20% for abs because of much air they move. Is he just moving to slow? Or his enclosure to cold? Or nozzle to small? Or yes to all? In which case is this aimed at the 1.0mm+ bore crowd?
@JH-zo5gk he's in far too cold of a chamber with a weak gantry. 1mm bore is a sweet spot for using the chube conduction imo, the air is equivalent in perf to the chube conduction with a .4, .5mm nozzle
@@LukesLaboratorywould a thinner fan that moves less air and putting a lightweight spacer in be a sensible option for those who plan on the smaller nozzle diameters to shed some mass?
@@carneeki depends if you're a full-plate person or not - If you typically print full plates where they can cool down naturally or if you're printing cold (sub 70c chamber) abs, you can probably get away with a thinner fan stack.
I just gotta know one thing - when is your "upcoming Nerf blaster inspired project" you've been teasing in your PCBWay ads for what feels like a year or more now? 😀
Did i understand this correctly? You have to assemble the toolhead piece by piece directly to the carriage instead of assembling as a whole then installing as one piece like Stealthburner? If so its kinda poorly named. I watched this looking for a quick/easy to take off toolhead.
Fairly certain the EBB board has 12v jumpers but it would look weird on your printer. Also, it's possible to overvolt some fans, I know 12V sunon fans handle 24V, but I'm not sure about delta's
I have had pretty good luck with even a .4. Some of the older CF filaments though I had clogging issues with. I feel like overall filament has just gotten better over time.
DangerKlipper has far better options for sensorless homing and also Beacon has macros that can be ran with their software so you don't have to use those homing macros like that.
[homing_override] axes: xyz gcode: {% set home_all = 'X' not in params and 'Y' not in params and 'Z' not in params %} {% if home_all or 'X' in params %} _HOME_X {% endif %} {% if home_all or 'Y' in params %} _HOME_Y {% endif %} {% if home_all or 'Z' in params %} G90 G0 X150 Y150 F6600 G91 G28 Z G1 Z10 G90 {% endif %} [gcode_macro _HOME_X] gcode: # Always use consistent run_current on A/B steppers during sensorless homing {% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %} {% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %} {% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} # Home G28 X # Move away M400 G91 G1 X-10 F1200 # Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear) G4 P1000 # Set current during print SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y} [gcode_macro _HOME_Y] gcode: # Set current for sensorless homing {% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %} {% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %} {% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} # Home G28 Y # Move away G91 G1 Y-10 F1200 # Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear) G4 P1000 # Set current during print SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}
This is what I got from Steve. I made some slight tweaks like changing the TMC and setting motor power to 70% but thats the main changes: [homing_override] axes: xyz gcode: {% set home_all = 'X' not in params and 'Y' not in params and 'Z' not in params %} {% if home_all or 'X' in params %} _HOME_X {% endif %} {% if home_all or 'Y' in params %} _HOME_Y {% endif %} {% if home_all or 'Z' in params %} G90 G0 X150 Y150 F6600 G91 G28 Z G1 Z10 G90 {% endif %} [gcode_macro _HOME_X] gcode: # Always use consistent run_current on A/B steppers during sensorless homing {% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %} {% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %} {% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} # Home G28 X # Move away M400 G91 G1 X-10 F1200 # Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear) G4 P1000 # Set current during print SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y} [gcode_macro _HOME_Y] gcode: # Set current for sensorless homing {% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %} {% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %} {% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT} # Home G28 Y # Move away G91 G1 Y-10 F1200 # Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear) G4 P1000 # Set current during print SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X} SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}
I dont know if I would say a learning curve. In my case alot of that came from being an early adopter. I anticipate V2 with the manual and configurator will be much more straight forward.
I'm running chube conduction. No learning curve with the hotend at all, the fans are the only part that is a little non-standard, they are 12v 4 wire fans which most toolboards and even some mainboards don't support out of the box. As long as you can get the fans working with your setup the rest is very straightforward. I've been loving mine, finally found a hotend I was happy with and settled on after going through volcano, mosquito, volcomosq, rapido, and dragon ace before it. If you like to print big parts it's just wonderful.
Its very pricey. It can vary quite a bit and V2 will be cheaper. I would recommend looking at Lukes Labs. They have a config builder there that will help you get an idea.
So it's big and heavy and therefore slow. But it's big because it needs metal to hold 2 very big fans. But the fans are too big, so you only need to run them at 20%... yeah, that doesn't add up: this thing seems overengineered and overshooting its goal. Not very useful this way.
Hi there! This toolhead was designed with a stiffer gantry in mind (metal+9mm belts) which will allow the metal to do its job! The toolhead is stiffer than any plastic toolhead but can really use the stiffness in the rest of the gantry. Takeoff weighs close to the same as stealthburner, and plenty use that as-is! Also: The 20% fan thing is mostly due to low chamber temps - when you print near TG of abs (70-80c) you will need significantly more fan for proper printing, which is why these axials are so good.
Where it’s at it shouldn’t be getting that hot. My issue with boron nitride is that in my experience it gets rocked hard which could make removing a pain if ever needed for maintenance.
I'm making a 600mm by 600mm bed size printer. Modbot do you think it's possible to get a hotene like that for 2.85mm fillment for industrial application?
Hi there! Chube came about because I needed a bigger hotend in the first place for my industrial stablebots! You should be more than happy with 1.75mm filament up until you're looking for more flow with 1.2mm and larger nozzles
In theory 1.75 mm has much higher peak flow than 2.85, because the limiting factor is heat transfer from outside to center of the filament, and it has a lot longer to go in the latter.
@@daliasprints9798 This is only true below ~150mm3/s or so - after that you actually run into issues with the filament buckling under extrusion load and need to switch to 2.85
Isn't the FXD supposed to be buckling-proof? I don't see the value of 2.85. I see pellets being more practical for industrial printers because of the cost of manufacturing large spools.
It's monolithic, so the gears can't be misaligned like with pressfit gear systems leading to bandng due to inconsistent length of extrusion because of the off axis alignment of the gear and the gear pin
Like Luke said, surface area. Having more surface area to push the filament does more than biting it with teeth like most extruders. It also leads to not shredding filament causing dust or more inconsistent extrusion
Looks proper hideous that tool head. What benefit is there with 2x 12v heavy blowers over a light weight cpap? I haven't run into any issue at high speed high flow printing using cpap. You could then get rid of all the weight and hideous wiring and use a tool board.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. CPAP is stupid loud which is one of my biggest complaints. Deltas at 100% are definitely not quiet but the way I have been running it is actually not that bad.
@@Terriblewastaken not high temp machines, the filament makes contact with the carriage so there you will be limited. Also its heavy asf. Its a you never go full retard design, look at the fans come on man wtf
This thing looks so hideous I wouldn't even care about any performance benefits. And that's before taking the fact that this is locked to SLM parts into account.
Why the need for high throughput to brag about benchy printed in two minutes? Technical parts not printed at high flow and speeds for good sintering and quality anyway
@@caramelzappaHave you tried printing at higher flow rates and then checking the parts mechanically afterwards? I have tried it and for me this is the optimal result in terms of mechanical strength, time and financial cost
Burgo here! Thanks so much for showcasing my toolhead! Im so happy with takeoff v2 at this point i did alot of changes which made it
Cheaper
Lighter
And easier to put together!
Ita definitely a chunky toolhead but for being in a close weight to stelathburner with easily 10x the cooling, capability for high flow rates, dealing with hot chambers.
Id totally recommend monolith gantry by cloakedwayne as an upgrade though! 6mm belts have alot more stretch then 9mm at length so why not tackle longer belts and thicker at the same time!
I would also recommend Monolith vs my plated AWD. Neat to see it show up in the video though.
I recognize those fans in the intro.
They will not be permitted in my residential home.
Not quite sure how Delta managed to fit an entire jet engine in such a tiny fan.
@@ckitching2 Not Delta, Boeing.
It’s simple, they cut corners.
Really glad to see Burgo's toolhead get some attention!
Its such a rad toolhead. I was stoked to be able to showcase it.
Just a heads up if you didn't mean to - you're showing your postcode on the Amazon page for the steel tubing.
Doxers dont even have to watch the whole video, thanks to you!
@@charliew.1122 it’s been shown in quite a few videos for a while. I do appreciate the heads up though ❤️.
Looks like a wild MOD of an Ultimaker 2 Toolhead
That's what I thought as well.
Exactly
I cant believe it, a week ago i was considering this toolhead and now FINALLY someone is covering it, not a single video about it, modbot you are on fire with these upgrades i cant wait for you to post about them, bravo for showing the shaper resaults you answered all my questions and got yourself a new subscriber
Crazy to see you cover this! I'm waiting on the SLM parts and it's going on my monolith gantry. Burgo's done a great job with it
Did you make the whole monolith out of slm or just the double z slm mod?
@@SerialChillerBH monolith is laser cut 4wd 9mm
@@onlytiramisu is that through pcb way as well? Also the slm parts are z joints?
@@SerialChillerBHlocal business did the laser cutting. despite all the ads pcbway does, i was not happy with their slm work. I went with in3dtec for takeoff. And no z joints as this is a trident.
AWD Monolith next?
Your Trident is turning into a proper beast. AWD next? Kraken has plenty of drivers
Thats the plan :).
Take a look at monolith, you can get the parts laser cut and gives you awd basically maximum performance
I need to make you a custom plate for this beast!!!
Umm yes please!!!
@@ModBotArmy trident is 305x305mm right? I'll get it done, just promise me you'll actually print on it 😉😂
@@emberprototypes from everything I can see it’s 305mm x 305mm. You have my word it will go straight into the printer 🫡.
@@ModBotArmy deal! I'll probably make it this week 🙂
Luke is close to releasing Jupiter toolhead board which will have 12V and beacon support. I think even beacon sock support to slow even higher temps.
I need it!!
@@ModBotArmy did you already look at it it’s usb also vs can. He’s waiting for the betas to come in right now. I’ve been waiting for a Jupiter. I had a nitehawk36 but was one of the unlucky few that had issues in chambers
you should get some fusion asa they say you can print it at 300c and it flows awesome at that temp.
Thank you so much for pronouncing jaguar correctly. A lot of people around here pronounce it as "jag-wire" and it drives me insane. THERE ARE NO I's! 😂
The Mellow Fly SHT36 V2 has 5V/12V/24V selectable fan voltage
Hmm, I didnt realize that. I wonder if it can support these fans.
Suggest a Boron Nitride Thermal Paste for hot ends, especially ones that can go upward of 500C.
For the heater cartridge, thermistor, and nozzle, yes. For the heatsink and heatbreak connection, no. You want something that doesn't dry out
i would recommend monolith gantry mod for AWD setup
I'm running Calamity toolhead, not takeoff but also get great Y results and messy X axis. Haven't figured out why yet but until then or as another video idea you could look into danger-klipper and using independent x/y accel limits. I've been doing it for a few months now and it works great. Basically, set your printer kinematics to limited_corexy instead of corexy and then you can set independent limits for x and y accel.
Wow, interesting project as always 🙂
So you got basically everything gifted
Interesting that the toolhead ends up visually, looking similar to the V-Core 4 toolhead at a glance.
Steel gears cool
Awesome build!
Thank you!!
What bed leveling sensor do you recommend for a glass bed that can withstand temperatures of 120 degrees or more?
That Stealthburner CAN head misalignment killed my printer's control network around a year and a half ago. It's a damn shame they're still making those with absolutely no changes, especially as there's exactly zero need for a CAN output header on the fan control daughterboard.
Anytime i use 12V on a 24V system i just limit their power in klipper to 0.5, no issues so far over a couple of machines
Every time you say chube, all i can hear is Nero saying chuuube
If the fans are running at like 20% max then would it make more sense to redesign the ducts to use only 1 fan and loose some weight while at it?
you need the cooling for proper temp ABS printing & PLA. when printing at 75-80c with abs, 80-100% cooling is required
@LukesLaboratory at 11:37 he says he hasn't taken the fans above 20% for abs because of much air they move.
Is he just moving to slow? Or his enclosure to cold? Or nozzle to small? Or yes to all? In which case is this aimed at the 1.0mm+ bore crowd?
@JH-zo5gk he's in far too cold of a chamber with a weak gantry. 1mm bore is a sweet spot for using the chube conduction imo, the air is equivalent in perf to the chube conduction with a .4, .5mm nozzle
@@LukesLaboratorywould a thinner fan that moves less air and putting a lightweight spacer in be a sensible option for those who plan on the smaller nozzle diameters to shed some mass?
@@carneeki depends if you're a full-plate person or not - If you typically print full plates where they can cool down naturally or if you're printing cold (sub 70c chamber) abs, you can probably get away with a thinner fan stack.
Neat setup!
So expensive
I just gotta know one thing - when is your "upcoming Nerf blaster inspired project" you've been teasing in your PCBWay ads for what feels like a year or more now? 😀
Hahah I need to source one or two more parts. It’s the project fdl 3 github.com/projectfdl/FDL-3-Blaster
Now you need to make it AWD to take advantage of the extra flow rate and cooling 🤣
It's so ugly, I love it!
Did i understand this correctly? You have to assemble the toolhead piece by piece directly to the carriage instead of assembling as a whole then installing as one piece like Stealthburner? If so its kinda poorly named. I watched this looking for a quick/easy to take off toolhead.
Fairly certain the EBB board has 12v jumpers but it would look weird on your printer. Also, it's possible to overvolt some fans, I know 12V sunon fans handle 24V, but I'm not sure about delta's
ebb36/42 don't have 12V jumpers. Only the sb2209/2240 ones do have jumpers.
I run ABS GF with a .6 nozzle
I have had pretty good luck with even a .4. Some of the older CF filaments though I had clogging issues with. I feel like overall filament has just gotten better over time.
You should try our colored abs gf it prints with .4 at .1 layer height no prob
DangerKlipper has far better options for sensorless homing and also Beacon has macros that can be ran with their software so you don't have to use those homing macros like that.
Yea DK supports sensorless homing as an "out of the box" experience vs macro-land.
Could you please share the homing override sequence from the screenshots? Thanks.
[homing_override]
axes: xyz
gcode:
{% set home_all = 'X' not in params and 'Y' not in params and 'Z' not in params %}
{% if home_all or 'X' in params %}
_HOME_X
{% endif %}
{% if home_all or 'Y' in params %}
_HOME_Y
{% endif %}
{% if home_all or 'Z' in params %}
G90
G0 X150 Y150 F6600
G91
G28 Z
G1 Z10
G90
{% endif %}
[gcode_macro _HOME_X]
gcode:
# Always use consistent run_current on A/B steppers during sensorless homing
{% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %}
{% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %}
{% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
# Home
G28 X
# Move away
M400
G91
G1 X-10 F1200
# Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear)
G4 P1000
# Set current during print
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}
[gcode_macro _HOME_Y]
gcode:
# Set current for sensorless homing
{% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %}
{% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %}
{% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
# Home
G28 Y
# Move away
G91
G1 Y-10 F1200
# Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear)
G4 P1000
# Set current during print
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}
I love it but axial fans? Eurgh mucho noise for the flow and pressure.
you could also put both fans in series.
Fans are not strictly resistive loads
@@LukesLaboratory #til
hey @ModBotArmy I want to use the sensorless homing macro. Is there any chance you can send me the link for the macro?
This is what I got from Steve. I made some slight tweaks like changing the TMC and setting motor power to 70% but thats the main changes:
[homing_override]
axes: xyz
gcode:
{% set home_all = 'X' not in params and 'Y' not in params and 'Z' not in params %}
{% if home_all or 'X' in params %}
_HOME_X
{% endif %}
{% if home_all or 'Y' in params %}
_HOME_Y
{% endif %}
{% if home_all or 'Z' in params %}
G90
G0 X150 Y150 F6600
G91
G28 Z
G1 Z10
G90
{% endif %}
[gcode_macro _HOME_X]
gcode:
# Always use consistent run_current on A/B steppers during sensorless homing
{% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %}
{% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %}
{% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
# Home
G28 X
# Move away
M400
G91
G1 X-10 F1200
# Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear)
G4 P1000
# Set current during print
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}
[gcode_macro _HOME_Y]
gcode:
# Set current for sensorless homing
{% set RUN_CURRENT_X = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_x'].run_current|float %}
{% set RUN_CURRENT_Y = printer.configfile.settings['tmc2209 stepper_y'].run_current|float %}
{% set HOME_CURRENT = 0.6 %}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={HOME_CURRENT}
# Home
G28 Y
# Move away
G91
G1 Y-10 F1200
# Wait just a second… (give StallGuard registers time to clear)
G4 P1000
# Set current during print
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_x CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_X}
SET_TMC_CURRENT STEPPER=stepper_y CURRENT={RUN_CURRENT_Y}
That hot-end looks solid, but it seems to have a learning curve attached to it. Or am I wrong?
I dont know if I would say a learning curve. In my case alot of that came from being an early adopter. I anticipate V2 with the manual and configurator will be much more straight forward.
I'm running chube conduction. No learning curve with the hotend at all, the fans are the only part that is a little non-standard, they are 12v 4 wire fans which most toolboards and even some mainboards don't support out of the box. As long as you can get the fans working with your setup the rest is very straightforward. I've been loving mine, finally found a hotend I was happy with and settled on after going through volcano, mosquito, volcomosq, rapido, and dragon ace before it. If you like to print big parts it's just wonderful.
What’s the price range for something like this? It seems like it’ll be very priceyy
Its very pricey. It can vary quite a bit and V2 will be cheaper. I would recommend looking at Lukes Labs. They have a config builder there that will help you get an idea.
So it's big and heavy and therefore slow. But it's big because it needs metal to hold 2 very big fans. But the fans are too big, so you only need to run them at 20%... yeah, that doesn't add up: this thing seems overengineered and overshooting its goal. Not very useful this way.
Hi there! This toolhead was designed with a stiffer gantry in mind (metal+9mm belts) which will allow the metal to do its job! The toolhead is stiffer than any plastic toolhead but can really use the stiffness in the rest of the gantry. Takeoff weighs close to the same as stealthburner, and plenty use that as-is! Also: The 20% fan thing is mostly due to low chamber temps - when you print near TG of abs (70-80c) you will need significantly more fan for proper printing, which is why these axials are so good.
The fxd extruder actaully is within 5 grams of an orbiter "it supports nema 14 or 17 "
Artic MX-4 continuous temperate range is only up to 150 degree C. Wouldn't you need boron nitride thermal paste instead which can go up to 850C?
Where it’s at it shouldn’t be getting that hot. My issue with boron nitride is that in my experience it gets rocked hard which could make removing a pain if ever needed for maintenance.
The point is that it never gets that hot. The paste goes on the cold side, the heater+therm are where you use BN.
@@ModBotArmy Yes agreed. That's one part of BN that I hate the most. Have you tried measuring to see if it ever gets above 150?
I'm making a 600mm by 600mm bed size printer. Modbot do you think it's possible to get a hotene like that for 2.85mm fillment for industrial application?
Hi there! Chube came about because I needed a bigger hotend in the first place for my industrial stablebots! You should be more than happy with 1.75mm filament up until you're looking for more flow with 1.2mm and larger nozzles
In theory 1.75 mm has much higher peak flow than 2.85, because the limiting factor is heat transfer from outside to center of the filament, and it has a lot longer to go in the latter.
@@daliasprints9798 This is only true below ~150mm3/s or so - after that you actually run into issues with the filament buckling under extrusion load and need to switch to 2.85
Isn't the FXD supposed to be buckling-proof? I don't see the value of 2.85. I see pellets being more practical for industrial printers because of the cost of manufacturing large spools.
Is the bozzle nozzle ever going to be back in stock?
check out the nanoflow nozzle by provok3d
The answer is no. It won’t ever be coming back in stock. But like Luke said. Check out nanoflow😊
What's special about this extruder ? From an outside view, it seems like a simple LGX clone
It's monolithic, so the gears can't be misaligned like with pressfit gear systems leading to bandng due to inconsistent length of extrusion because of the off axis alignment of the gear and the gear pin
👏
hey id love to send you set of servos and our 9mm billet mounts if intersted let andrew know
Why not make the Invisible nozzle, we can not see it
1:15 Why are the drive gears so flat?
More Surface area for grip
@@LukesLaboratory Interesting, usually they have sharp teeth to bite in to provide grip.
Like Luke said, surface area. Having more surface area to push the filament does more than biting it with teeth like most extruders. It also leads to not shredding filament causing dust or more inconsistent extrusion
@@Jackxgreer Makes sense. First time I've seen gears like that and given that massive jam, it clearly works.
what is the total cost of just the tool head?
There's a kit builder if you follow the takeoff link in the description to my shop.
@@LukesLaboratory so wait this one was like over $700 USD?
Looks proper hideous that tool head. What benefit is there with 2x 12v heavy blowers over a light weight cpap? I haven't run into any issue at high speed high flow printing using cpap. You could then get rid of all the weight and hideous wiring and use a tool board.
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. CPAP is stupid loud which is one of my biggest complaints. Deltas at 100% are definitely not quiet but the way I have been running it is actually not that bad.
@@ModBotArmymy cpap runs Max 30% and that's over cooling when printing at high speed. Put it in a muffler it's practically silent.
Is toolhead weight 600 g ?
Lighter than stealthburner afaik
I believe Burgo mentioned its similar or even a bit lighter than SB.
I never hear / see a so bad design and changes
How is this peak performance 🤣
Bc its built for rigid, high temp machines. Not a stock trident with a 50c chamber
@@Terriblewastaken not high temp machines, the filament makes contact with the carriage so there you will be limited. Also its heavy asf. Its a you never go full retard design, look at the fans come on man wtf
You really do know nothing about printer design
This thing looks so hideous I wouldn't even care about any performance benefits. And that's before taking the fact that this is locked to SLM parts into account.
Nah it's not hideous. It looks functional, and it is
?
3D printers aren't exactly pretty anyways.
Not sure how you manage to care about tool head aesthetics.
@@MumrikDK If I look at it, it should at least look pleasing. I'm a human using a tool, not some animal taking whatever I can get.
What a monstrosity, introducing more problems than it solves to achieve merely mediocre performance
No problems added, really.
Blaming the toolhead for an issue with the gantry is really dumb.
Why the need for high throughput to brag about benchy printed in two minutes? Technical parts not printed at high flow and speeds for good sintering and quality anyway
ABS in hot chambers needs ALOT of cooling
@@coltenmeredith8899 In a 60 degree thermal chamber when printing abs with carbon fibers at a flow rate of up to 8 mm³/s one 5015 is sufficient
@@_azate 60c is not a hot chamber. And 8mms3 is incredibly slow.
@@caramelzappaHave you tried printing at higher flow rates and then checking the parts mechanically afterwards? I have tried it and for me this is the optimal result in terms of mechanical strength, time and financial cost
@@caramelzappaWhat do you call a thermal chamber? 120 degrees?
im going to order a kit of this toolhead on 3dkatten, hype
Just a thought whynot run the fans in series so can run on 24v output ? @modbot