The reason your inner brake pads were faster than the outer pads, is the inner pad sits against the caliper piston which touches the rotor first because of the lack of lubricant on the pad/rotor bracket to move freely engaging both pads simultaneously. Over time this lubricant dries up and then corrosion sets in. You've done a great job servicing your front brakes and detailing the surrounding area. You'll probably never have to buy a new car if you keep this up. Lol. I enjoy watching your videos. I own a 2009 S60 2.5T. I, like you, do a complete and detail service on all my vehicles.
Great job...cleaning and adding some anti-rust paint is a nice touch. Your level of detail and specific explanations are a great help for those of us DIY people that enjoy working on our Volvos
I think the reason the inner pad wears more is because the slider pins do not have enough lubrication, so the caliper is not pulling the outer pad onto the rotor as it should
The inner pads wear more because for the caliper to be pulled closer bringing the outer pad there must be contact on the inner pad with the rotor/disc. Think of a tug of war and leaning backwards to pull the other guy you must dig your heels in, same with the pads, the inner pad is digging in to pull the caliper and outer pad into contact with the rotor/disc
(1)Piston side wears more usually. (2)Without grease on the pins your caliper might not move so easily when the pedal is applied...pretty important step. Good clearly shot and explained video! Thanks
I just bought new rotors and pads for my XC60 last week and I'm gonna try to do it myself for the first time. This is amazingly helpful. Hälsningar from Sweden.
Hi! A few years ago I did anti-corrosion protection in a professional workshop. Everyone said there is no need to do that for an almost new car, but the guy who performed the service said that the key is to protect the car before the rust will appear, not when we will find it. Also pls. consider a cardboard sheet under working area. It perfectly absorbes each spots, fluids and oils. I buy it in local paper wholesaler for 0.25-0.40 eur / 1 piece 220x150cm depends on thickness. Town cleaning company collects it from my gate every monday. No bad smells, nice and clean garage :) PS. Perfect job. Nice to watch as always. Best regards
Great work, spent ages looking for a video with my specific brakes, and then found this. Very detailed, very clear, have me the confidence to order up the parts and do the job myself.
Thanks for another nice video! What I have found is that for the bolts that keep brake support in place (18mm head) the thread-lock is the reason for them to stick when unscrew. In order to do it easier and with less force you should unscrew them till it is hard to rotate it and then tighten them back. Once they are all in, you could unscrew them again and they will go further out. It needs 2 or 3 repetitions to get bolts removed. This in-out action removes the thread-lock without effort and you do not need to apply a lot of force after initial movement (you still need the big pray bar to make them move in the beginning).
thanks for the tips and doing all the hard work first so it’s easier for me when I do my brakes. Before all my repairs I check to see if you have done it already. You have made maintaining my Volvo easier and a pleasure. Thanks
After watching this will be attempting to replace my own front discs and pads myself on my Xc70 , a garage would never take the time to execute to this standard ! Would whip the callipers off , Chuck the pads in and windy gun the lot. Thanks to this vid and the fantastic standard shown now have the confidence to complete and know it’s done properly . Thank you
Great job on the wheel arches. Looks great. Also, I have never heard of anyone cleaning the lug nuts until now. Your perfectionism is equally scary and admirable.
Thanks for the video. I have a V70 and this helped me replace my pads yesterday. Really enjoyed the job. My dad told me years ago that he thought greasing brake slider pins was not the right thing to do. The reason is because the range of movement is so small and the power of the braking strong so it’s unlikely to ever seize through lack of lubrication. The downside of grease is it attracts dust to stick to it - leaving a sticky mess more likely to cause problems. Indeed my slider pins were coated in dirty black gunk when I removed them. I cleaned them and replaced them dry. This always seemed logical to me. Interested to hear other views though. I was tempted to paint the callipers while there but at 140,000 miles my car is fairly scruffy - so I decided it wasn’t worth it. It would be a slippery slope of spending money bringing it back up to standard!
I just love the attention to detail and the pride that you put into caring for your XC70. Makes me want to be a better Volvo owner lol. I drive an ‘08 XC70 with the same color as yours. I will be watching a lot more of your videos soon as spring is here and the weather is right for me to begin doing some needed maintenance. Brakes all around is first on my list. Thanks for the great videos ✌🏼
The inner pads wear out faster because of the design. It has the piston on that side and gets more of the mild braking where you just brake easy.. So the inner pads do more of the work. Great video sir.
That not the reason at all we’re do u get this the reason your pads are wearing uneven is because you need to clean the sliders that the pads sit in and put a tiny bit of copper grease on the slider and on the back of the pad and slider pins it’s nothing to do with mild braking of the piston or anything like it I’m a engineer on car and trucks
I am using Carlube Silicone Grease XSG070 on my Volvo XC70 2006 D5 Diesel when servicing on my brakes and I am verry impressed of results. On sliding pins: The calipers are floating even 3 Years after this treatment .No sign of corrosion. In the description: ADVANTAGES: Extreme temperature resistant multi purpose grease Lubricates and protects plastic and rubber parts Ideal for brake pads, o rings rubber seals and brake callipers Water repellent Because it has low dense ,I use a tiny tube - as in the pen. I pushing the tube inside in the grease and then with it lubricate inside the tubes for the sliding pins.
Due to its construction, the Outer pad has more friction to work, no matter how much it is lubricated. Then the pressure on the inner pad is the greatest and wears out the most.
Thank you for the excellent detailed video. Your explanation, sizes of the tools needed, the torque setting and quality of the video were excellent and huge help when greasing the slider pins. Thanks again
Thank you for all your help. I recently had to buy a newer volvo V90 wagon enjoy your videos on XC70 2008 put 400,000 miles on it before it died, thanks for all the help.Mark
Excellent job. Better than a professional job. With your maintenance, this car will last for ever. I am a long time subscriber, even though I am no mechanic.
Totally agreed, the new brakes look AMAZING with all of your effort and LOVE putting into the task. You're such an oriented, detailed person! Your videos are not only well entertaining but also give the DIY audiences the confidence to take care of their own vehicles. BTW to avoid metal contacting metal between the stand and the vehicle frame, I cut a small square piece rubber from old tire instead of using towel. CHEER!
Great video, thank you. About uneven brake pads there is 3 possibilities 1. Sticking slider pins, guide pins 2. Sticking brake caliper piston 3. And sometimes even old brake lines could cause that, because fluid can`t go back easily when brake pedal is released but it`s very rare. But I think no mater what inside brake pad still wear more than outside pad.
Excellent video. Thanks very much, your process is really logical and thorough. The kids add a lot too. Dad is setting a great example doing his own automotive work in the garage. Self-sufficiency is best learned by example!
I think you did a fantastic job detailing the brake parts. Oh, a video from FCP EURO said the inner pads wear sooner because of the pressure of the caliper plunger.
A very informative and educational video. You covered all of the process and most of all made it look easy for the newbie. Many thanks for all the hard work.
Interesting and instructive video. I have a 2008 XC70 with the 3.2L petrol engine. I had a mechanic replace my rotors but after watching your video I realise I should have done myself.
The reason for the uneven wear inner vs outer pad is dirt on the slider pins. They are highly polished at the factory. Best to use only solvents on them to clean them 😁 As suggested below use silicon grease when refitting them.
Greetings from the UK, can i just say a massive thank for for this video as it was such a great help doing my disks! my disks weren't that bad but i was getting massive wheel wobble under braking
when you clean the grooves for pads slide be aware that they are already worn out and you can get what I got - knocks when braking. I spent a lot of time searching the source of knocking, it was not tight sitting pads in those grooves that you sand
Thanks so much, just did mine today, and this made it all easy. A word of CAUTION.. my rotor bolt (T50) was absolutely seized, heat, penetrating fluid.. nothing helped. The head snapped off. So I redrilled the bolt out and retapped, and my tap broke inside! SO I decided to not use the bolt!! No choice. Wheel studs will have to hold it on. Hope this doesn't happen to anyone else, it was a day of hell.
My 2005 Euro3 XC70 D5 Auto Geartronic has 204K miles (328K km) and drives perfectly - just passed MOT without any advisories. The 2008 XC70 euro4 D5 Auto Lux Geartronic Polestar has 161K miles (259K km) and also drives and feels like new. The new Michelin CrossClimate2 are fantastic. The 2005 has the CrossClimate+ and they have also worked amazingly well.
Different pad wear is almost certainly the slide pins sticking. Interestingly, Volvo makes it easy here to pull out the pins w/o doing anything else so that you can service them. (awesome) I would suggest you pull, clean/polish, and regrease them every winter and summer to keep the calipers sliding nicely and avert other problems that result from stuck calipers ~
Thank you thousand times for this video! I'll change the front rotors and pads myself this summer on my XC60 and this helped me alot to figure out what I should have at hand then. Thank you! 😀🙂
Sticky slide bolts is the reason why your inner pad has more wear. Painting all that suspension with spray paint without any proper rust removing looks nice for a while, but after one winter, they are all the same again. I have learned that painting brake calipers has same issue, spay paint leaves too thin coat and calipers rust again after just one winter, even if they are sandblasted before painting.
But you already did spend a lot of time to do all this. I'm not whining that you didn't do it "super correct", I'm just saying that you wasted a lot of time because that spray paint just isn't adequate for the job. And btw, lubing those slide bolts is the only right way to go :)
Hi and thank you for a very comprehensive video. One point, on my Volvo XC60 T6 the pins that hold on the caliper are held in place with a 9mm hex, not 7mm. I had to resort to using a sump plug socket as 9mm is not a common hex bolt size.
You asked in the video about uneven wearing of the inboard pad. Bendix suggests it's due to lack of lubrication of the caliper guide pins. Due to your harsh winter conditions, your pins had a lot of surface rust on the lower half, suggesting the outboard pads were not being returned to the full open position because of friction caused by the rust on the guide pins. In Australia our winters are very mild, so my pins had no rust and still has some grease present, so my pads were both evenly worn. I would suggest for those of you living through Canadian winters would benefit from additional preventative maintenance by taking out the pins mid winter and using a more robust ceramic grease on them to get even wear on your pads.
I'm learning more and more watching your video's. I'm picking up a 2013 XC70 T6 next week. Just went on JCWhitney for new Power Stop Z23s, Mevotech Control Arms, and New Calibers. I want to break out the Eastwood PowderCoating kit I picked up for my CJ for the Control Arms and Calibers.
Thanks! You really make great videos, I get really detailed information and inspiration🙏 👍 I drive a Volvo S80 V8 and it is basically the same brakes on mine. Greetings from Sweden🇸🇪
The reason for the pads wear not evenly is the caliper slide bolts. The once you clean with sand paper. You need to clean them really good and put some silicon paste. Simply the was some resistance is caliper sliding
@@tmillner0682 Exactly. Do not lubricate the sliding pins. The grease causes sticking of dirt and hindered movement of the caliper. There are still a few mistakes in the film. If you press the piston in the caliper, unscrew the bleed valve and remove the brake fluid form caliper. Do not pump it up the system. Do not grease the hubs under the brake disc.etc...
@@damiansmigielski the way he pressed the caliper in place was fine and the recommended way. Opening the bleed screw to release pressure will be introducing air into the brake system. You can do this, but you will then need to bleed all brakes to remove the air.
The inner pad wears faster because it is pressed onto the disc directly by the piston, the outside pad only applies a much lighter pressure to the disc because it is only pulled on by the mechanical slide of the calliper on those slide pins. So the inner pad does the bulk of the braking effort. Great video btw.
You can get more even wear by "dressing" the slide pins. Chuck them in a drill or lathe and burnish the surface while they are spinning. Don't take off pin material, just polish off the grunge. The other thing you can do is if you soft brake lines are old, replace them. When they are old their inner surface can separate from the case and hold line pressure when they should not, making the inner brake drag a little. Also check for roughness where the caliper is supposed to slide on the bracket.
Great Job 👍 Next month I have to do the same work on my V60 T6 from 2019 with now round about 64,000 Km. I bought the brake pads and the rotors directly by ATE, so I was able to save a lot of money. Hopefully it is the same quality in comparison to the original parts. Best Regards from Germany, Martin
I just want to let people know that i replaced my break discs and pads this week with items from Yellows from EBC They are just fantastic. (I do not have anything to do with the company) They say they do not make any but after talking to TIM in tech they do, they are just for the Volvo xc60 For some reason they dont say that they make it directly for the Volvo XC 70 2008. I purchased a full set and it stops in half the distance much better then the stock OMD parts. So for anyone who wants to know the following breaks sets do fit a 2008 VOLVO xc70 just take of the old and pop on the new, They are a perfect fit. I hope this helps people as it was bloody hard work finding upgraded breaks for the old lass. These are used on the street day in day out. Last week they saved the front end of my car on the duel carriage way when someone with out break lights stopped quickly. FRONT - DP41914R / USR1549 (PD08KF235) REAR (SOLID) - DP41934R / USR1592 (PD08KR355) REAR (VENTED) - DP41934R / USR1590 (PD08KR357)
Working on older cars, I've always used Copper grease between the hub and rotor and between pad and caliper. I wonder how different they work over time and more extreme winter conditions.
So, as the caliper has only one piston, the whole caliper slides on those slider pins. You need to lubricate them to ensure that the caliper can slide freely. The inner pad is the one the piston pushes. Outer one relies on the slider pins to allow the caliper slide freely. After a while, the slider pins get jammed up and the caliper can't slide freely anymore. Then, when you brake lightly, the inner pad makes greater contact to the disc and that's why the inner pads wear more quickly than the outer ones.
Good work. A few questions: Why didn't you remove the caliper and bracket, rotor, pads and only then brushed off all the rust first? It'd make a whole lot more sense to clean all the rust first before painting the brake and suspension components. Nice to see someone use correct torque values as opposed to the often-used FT* value. *FT - Friggin' Tight
Thanks a lot you are simply the best, after watching your video I ordered the correct pads (316 mm) and changed them with ease. I bought ATE Ceramic pads.
Thanks a lot for this video. I was able to change my front rotors and pads last week on my volvo s80 2010 T6. The only difference is that mine had 300mm rotors instead of 316mm. I will try the rear ones next week
Great job. Your work is too a much higher standard than a dealers workshop. My XC60 had the same issue with one pad wearing more than the other. I see you have started a new line in mechanics trousers 😀😀
I've not seen the brake pads wear this unevenly. How do the surface roughness compare on the 2 faces of the rotor? Another explanation would be that the slider pins are not sliding freely, eating up some of the counterforce delivered to the outside pad. A 3rd theory is that the outer face of rotor is more exposed to a lubricating residue, lowering the coefficient of friction.
As an A&P Mechanic, my suspicion about the uneven wear of the inner and outer brake pads is that the lubricant on either the slider pins or the guide horns on the disc pad ran out of lubricant over time. The disc pad then jammed on one side or the other causing the pad to move at an angle instead of equally for even wear of the pad. Without equal movement of the pads within their guides along the slider pins , the pads wear unevenly. This is evident by different wear (thickness) of the worn pads and/or one disc pad looking thicker on one edge end verses the opposite edge end. That has been my observations with single piston disk brake systems on a variety of vehicles using disc brakes!
Hi. I am a bit worried about the grease on the hub. This should be used only on calipers to make brake pads move smoothly. Anything applied on hub may end up with bent rotor. I have spoken with many mechanics and they have confirmed it.
@@damiansmigielski What's the main difference between aluminium paste and copper grease? As far as I know, both can be used like an anti seize to be put between hub and rotor, just like ceramic grease.
Yes another great video from this man, I have just renewed my front Discs and pads using Pagid which are German quality,and done various other mods to the car also, very helpful information from his videos, Thank you keep them coming!
@@volvosweden Hi, in some cases the bushing arround the slide pins is compressed by the oxidation in the bracket's hole where It is fitted. The whole gets a smaller diameter and the slide does not move well. This can cause more wear in the inner pad. Good to use original pads! Was a nice video! Tack!
Oh, you were a little late with the video, I just finished the same job on my XC70. I also had this uneven wear problem in the front, my inner pads were significantly more worn. On the rear calipers the wear was more even but not perfect, the slider pins in the rear were almost completely seized.
Another great video Yuri. Looks like a lot of time and effort but the results speak for themselves . Don’t know where you get the time for all this with two young sons ! I think if I suggested this job to my wife I’d be told where to go. My 2013 D5 xc70 will have to wait a bit longer . Thanks for sharing .
Hey. I dont have the time but still find it. Every evening after kids go to bed I would spend some time. I love summer time when it gets dark at 10pm. Thx
Gonna do this during the weekend if everything goes as planned. Apparently you shouldn't have metal to metal, who would've thought..? 😅 But as usual, your video instills confidence in doing the job myself as opposed to asking the shop/a friend to do it 😁
The reason your inner brake pads were faster than the outer pads, is the inner pad sits against the caliper piston which touches the rotor first because of the lack of lubricant on the pad/rotor bracket to move freely engaging both pads simultaneously. Over time this lubricant dries up and then corrosion sets in.
You've done a great job servicing your front brakes and detailing the surrounding area. You'll probably never have to buy a new car if you keep this up. Lol.
I enjoy watching your videos. I own a 2009 S60 2.5T.
I, like you, do a complete and detail service on all my vehicles.
Great work. I really appreciate your videos. Your attention to detail is impeccable. Keep up the great work.
Great job...cleaning and adding some anti-rust paint is a nice touch. Your level of detail and specific explanations are a great help for those of us DIY people that enjoy working on our Volvos
I think the reason the inner pad wears more is because the slider pins do not have enough lubrication, so the caliper is not pulling the outer pad onto the rotor as it should
The inner pads wear more because for the caliper to be pulled closer bringing the outer pad there must be contact on the inner pad with the rotor/disc. Think of a tug of war and leaning backwards to pull the other guy you must dig your heels in, same with the pads, the inner pad is digging in to pull the caliper and outer pad into contact with the rotor/disc
(1)Piston side wears more usually.
(2)Without grease on the pins your caliper might not move so easily when the pedal is applied...pretty important step.
Good clearly shot and explained video!
Thanks
I just bought new rotors and pads for my XC60 last week and I'm gonna try to do it myself for the first time. This is amazingly helpful. Hälsningar from Sweden.
Hi! A few years ago I did anti-corrosion protection in a professional workshop. Everyone said there is no need to do that for an almost new car, but the guy who performed the service said that the key is to protect the car before the rust will appear, not when we will find it.
Also pls. consider a cardboard sheet under working area. It perfectly absorbes each spots, fluids and oils. I buy it in local paper wholesaler for 0.25-0.40 eur / 1 piece 220x150cm depends on thickness. Town cleaning company collects it from my gate every monday. No bad smells, nice and clean garage :)
PS. Perfect job. Nice to watch as always.
Best regards
Yes good. Remember engine oils often are contaminated with heavy metals i.e. lead
Great work, spent ages looking for a video with my specific brakes, and then found this. Very detailed, very clear, have me the confidence to order up the parts and do the job myself.
I was trying to get the damn caliper off for a half hour, I didnt realize you have to compress it while it's on the rotor, great trick!
Thanks for another nice video! What I have found is that for the bolts that keep brake support in place (18mm head) the thread-lock is the reason for them to stick when unscrew. In order to do it easier and with less force you should unscrew them till it is hard to rotate it and then tighten them back. Once they are all in, you could unscrew them again and they will go further out. It needs 2 or 3 repetitions to get bolts removed. This in-out action removes the thread-lock without effort and you do not need to apply a lot of force after initial movement (you still need the big pray bar to make them move in the beginning).
Finally somebody actually cleans the stuff when replacing parts, great job, I am gonna replace my XC90 roters and brakes. Thank you very much
thanks for the tips and doing all the hard work first so it’s easier for me when I do my brakes. Before all my repairs I check to see if you have done it already. You have made maintaining my Volvo easier and a pleasure. Thanks
Hi from Australia Your attention to detail is next level, enjoy your passion for what you do
Keep up the good work
After watching this will be attempting to replace my own front discs and pads myself on my Xc70 , a garage would never take the time to execute to this standard ! Would whip the callipers off , Chuck the pads in and windy gun the lot. Thanks to this vid and the fantastic standard shown now have the confidence to complete and know it’s done properly . Thank you
Of course, aesthetically, your cleaning and painting of the whole area is much better! Great job!
This man is an inspiration to us all.
Great job on the wheel arches. Looks great. Also, I have never heard of anyone cleaning the lug nuts until now. Your perfectionism is equally scary and admirable.
The lug nuts actually got cleaned :)
Thanks for the video. I have a V70 and this helped me replace my pads yesterday. Really enjoyed the job.
My dad told me years ago that he thought greasing brake slider pins was not the right thing to do. The reason is because the range of movement is so small and the power of the braking strong so it’s unlikely to ever seize through lack of lubrication. The downside of grease is it attracts dust to stick to it - leaving a sticky mess more likely to cause problems. Indeed my slider pins were coated in dirty black gunk when I removed them. I cleaned them and replaced them dry. This always seemed logical to me. Interested to hear other views though.
I was tempted to paint the callipers while there but at 140,000 miles my car is fairly scruffy - so I decided it wasn’t worth it. It would be a slippery slope of spending money bringing it back up to standard!
I got my brakes renewed today with the help of this video. It was very useful, thank you so much! Your car looks great too!
I just love the attention to detail and the pride that you put into caring for your XC70. Makes me want to be a better Volvo owner lol.
I drive an ‘08 XC70 with the same color as yours. I will be watching a lot more of your videos soon as spring is here and the weather is right for me to begin doing some needed maintenance. Brakes all around is first on my list.
Thanks for the great videos ✌🏼
The inner pads wear out faster because of the design. It has the piston on that side and gets more of the mild braking where you just brake easy.. So the inner pads do more of the work.
Great video sir.
I dont think so.
That not the reason at all we’re do u get this the reason your pads are wearing uneven is because you need to clean the sliders that the pads sit in and put a tiny bit of copper grease on the slider and on the back of the pad and slider pins it’s nothing to do with mild braking of the piston or anything like it I’m a engineer on car and trucks
Yah you can see when he pumps the brakes. It's designed to "pull" the outer inward.
I am using Carlube Silicone Grease XSG070 on my Volvo XC70 2006 D5 Diesel when servicing on my brakes and I am verry impressed of results.
On sliding pins:
The calipers are floating even 3 Years after this treatment .No sign of corrosion.
In the description:
ADVANTAGES:
Extreme temperature resistant multi purpose grease
Lubricates and protects plastic and rubber parts
Ideal for brake pads, o rings rubber seals and brake callipers
Water repellent
Because it has low dense ,I use a tiny tube - as in the pen.
I pushing the tube inside in the grease and then with it lubricate inside the tubes for the sliding pins.
Due to its construction, the Outer pad has more friction to work, no matter how much it is lubricated. Then the pressure on the inner pad is the greatest and wears out the most.
Dude you are the best. My favorite Volvo youtuber
Thx Man!
You're the best, technically. 👍
I am always looking forward to it
I am also riding the XC70.
from Japan
Me too 2010 from Baltimore, USA.
Getting ready to replace the front brakes on my 2012 XC70, your video has been the best I've seen! Thanks for the effort!
Very nice video, everyone can learn and do it self from your videos. Nicely finished with the cleaning and repainting. Well done. Looks great.
2015 XC60 caliper sliding pins are a 9mm hex, just to mention if others use this as a guide for maintenance
Thanks. I will do it in January
Thank you for the excellent detailed video. Your explanation, sizes of the tools needed, the torque setting and quality of the video were excellent and huge help when greasing the slider pins. Thanks again
Thank you for all your help.
I recently had to buy a newer volvo V90 wagon enjoy your videos on XC70 2008 put 400,000 miles on it before it died, thanks for all the help.Mark
That’s a nice upgrade ! Congrats 🎉. My choice would be V90CC
Great job! You've done the job like no other service will ever do it for you!
Excellent job. Better than a professional job. With your maintenance, this car will last for ever. I am a long time subscriber, even though I am no mechanic.
Thank you. The car is in very good condition. It drives really nice too. Will keep it as long as I can.
After you replace, clean and lubricate everything you should not see uneven wear on the pads. You did it the right way!
I really like your videos. You explain very clearly and you film it from an angle that its very clear to see and follow. Really great. Thank you.
Totally agreed, the new brakes look AMAZING with all of your effort and LOVE putting into the task. You're such an oriented, detailed person! Your videos are not only well entertaining but also give the DIY audiences the confidence to take care of their own vehicles. BTW to avoid metal contacting metal between the stand and the vehicle frame, I cut a small square piece rubber from old tire instead of using towel. CHEER!
Thx for the tip on the rubber piece. Definitely will implement.
Excellent video Yuri very detailed and you have gone one step further to prevent any other problems occurring especially rust prevention.
Jay. U.K.
Thx Jay!
Hey Man, I love it how much you care about your Volvo. Good job and keep it up.;)
Your videos are always excellent. The cleaning/repainting the calibers and suspension parts made them look 👏👌👍👏👏👏
Great video, thank you. About uneven brake pads there is 3 possibilities
1. Sticking slider pins, guide pins
2. Sticking brake caliper piston
3. And sometimes even old brake lines could cause that, because fluid can`t go back easily when brake pedal is released but it`s very rare. But I think no mater what inside brake pad still wear more than outside pad.
Per your #3, old soft lines will cause that for sure.
Excellent video. Thanks very much, your process is really logical and thorough. The kids add a lot too. Dad is setting a great example doing his own automotive work in the garage. Self-sufficiency is best learned by example!
I think you did a fantastic job detailing the brake parts. Oh, a video from FCP EURO said the inner pads wear sooner because of the pressure of the caliper plunger.
Thanks V Much. I was stumped when I couldn't compress the cylinder. Thanks for taking the time to make the video
A very informative and educational video. You covered all of the process and most of all made it look easy for the newbie.
Many thanks for all the hard work.
Good job!! Finally a video! I like that you take care of your Volvo!
Simply the best. Very refreshing to have high quality video, good lighting. Thank you!
Interesting and instructive video. I have a 2008 XC70 with the 3.2L petrol engine. I had a mechanic replace my rotors but after watching your video I realise I should have done myself.
By far the best tutorial for changing front rotors, thank you!
The reason for the uneven wear inner vs outer pad is dirt on the slider pins. They are highly polished at the factory. Best to use only solvents on them to clean them 😁 As suggested below use silicon grease when refitting them.
Vida says not to lube slide pins on my 2013 xc70. Any reason why?
@@pgreenx Heaven knows perhaps some silicon or teflon spray instead
I wish I will do it one day. I love my Volvo and the way you treat them inspired me to do the same. Thank's for sharing time with us.
Greetings from the UK, can i just say a massive thank for for this video as it was such a great help doing my disks! my disks weren't that bad but i was getting massive wheel wobble under braking
You have passion doing any job with your volvo. And because of it looking your videos is a pleasure 👍
when you clean the grooves for pads slide be aware that they are already worn out and you can get what I got - knocks when braking. I spent a lot of time searching the source of knocking, it was not tight sitting pads in those grooves that you sand
Thanks so much, just did mine today, and this made it all easy. A word of CAUTION.. my rotor bolt (T50) was absolutely seized, heat, penetrating fluid.. nothing helped. The head snapped off. So I redrilled the bolt out and retapped, and my tap broke inside! SO I decided to not use the bolt!! No choice. Wheel studs will have to hold it on. Hope this doesn't happen to anyone else, it was a day of hell.
I does look amazing. Just as a fellow Canadian, hitting your first slush puddle after all that cleaning would make me cry!
Nice attention to details. Good to see a video from Manitoba, from former Winnipeger. I have same set of tools from PA and Stanley.
Great video, thanks for sharing. You are an inspiration. My XC70 2008 D5 currently has 270.000KM and drives great.
Glad to hear. Happy Volvoing
My 2005 Euro3 XC70 D5 Auto Geartronic has 204K miles (328K km) and drives perfectly - just passed MOT without any advisories. The 2008 XC70 euro4 D5 Auto Lux Geartronic Polestar has 161K miles (259K km) and also drives and feels like new. The new Michelin CrossClimate2 are fantastic. The 2005 has the CrossClimate+ and they have also worked amazingly well.
Different pad wear is almost certainly the slide pins sticking. Interestingly, Volvo makes it easy here to pull out the pins w/o doing anything else so that you can service them. (awesome) I would suggest you pull, clean/polish, and regrease them every winter and summer to keep the calipers sliding nicely and avert other problems that result from stuck calipers ~
Thanks man! Now I think I know just about anything I need to know about my car's brakes before I start changing parts.
Your videos are excellent. works just as well on my 2008 V70 2.4D. Keep it up!
Amazing job. Always wanted to understand how it is done exactly on a Volvo.
Excellent tutorial on front brake pads and rotor replacement. You make getting that valiper sprng back in place look easy, but I know it is not easy.
Thank you thousand times for this video! I'll change the front rotors and pads myself this summer on my XC60 and this helped me alot to figure out what I should have at hand then. Thank you! 😀🙂
Sticky slide bolts is the reason why your inner pad has more wear.
Painting all that suspension with spray paint without any proper rust removing looks nice for a while, but after one winter, they are all the same again.
I have learned that painting brake calipers has same issue, spay paint leaves too thin coat and calipers rust again after just one winter, even if they are sandblasted before painting.
I will repaint if needed. I dont see any reason to spend a lot of time and effort to make it super correct.
But you already did spend a lot of time to do all this. I'm not whining that you didn't do it "super correct", I'm just saying that you wasted a lot of time because that spray paint just isn't adequate for the job.
And btw, lubing those slide bolts is the only right way to go :)
Excellent tutorial video! I’ve got to do a 2009 S 60 tomorrow and this is what I needed. Very much appreciated.
Easy job. Thx
Hi and thank you for a very comprehensive video. One point, on my Volvo XC60 T6 the pins that hold on the caliper are held in place with a 9mm hex, not 7mm. I had to resort to using a sump plug socket as 9mm is not a common hex bolt size.
This will help someone with XC60. Thx
You asked in the video about uneven wearing of the inboard pad. Bendix suggests it's due to lack of lubrication of the caliper guide pins. Due to your harsh winter conditions, your pins had a lot of surface rust on the lower half, suggesting the outboard pads were not being returned to the full open position because of friction caused by the rust on the guide pins.
In Australia our winters are very mild, so my pins had no rust and still has some grease present, so my pads were both evenly worn.
I would suggest for those of you living through Canadian winters would benefit from additional preventative maintenance by taking out the pins mid winter and using a more robust ceramic grease on them to get even wear on your pads.
I'm learning more and more watching your video's. I'm picking up a 2013 XC70 T6 next week. Just went on JCWhitney for new Power Stop Z23s, Mevotech Control Arms, and New Calibers. I want to break out the Eastwood PowderCoating kit I picked up for my CJ for the Control Arms and Calibers.
Thanks! You really make great videos, I get really detailed information and inspiration🙏 👍
I drive a Volvo S80 V8 and it is basically the same brakes on mine.
Greetings from Sweden🇸🇪
Hello SWEDEN from Canada!
The reason for the pads wear not evenly is the caliper slide bolts. The once you clean with sand paper. You need to clean them really good and put some silicon paste.
Simply the was some resistance is caliper sliding
Błażej Lis Absolutely. Need to grease those caliper sliding pins/bolts
Incorrect. Volvo specifically says do not grease slide pistons. They are to be cleaned that's all
@@tmillner0682 Exactly. Do not lubricate the sliding pins. The grease causes sticking of dirt and hindered movement of the caliper. There are still a few mistakes in the film. If you press the piston in the caliper, unscrew the bleed valve and remove the brake fluid form caliper. Do not pump it up the system. Do not grease the hubs under the brake disc.etc...
@@damiansmigielski the way he pressed the caliper in place was fine and the recommended way. Opening the bleed screw to release pressure will be introducing air into the brake system. You can do this, but you will then need to bleed all brakes to remove the air.
@@tmillner0682 well... in my 30 yrs career as mechanic I never had that kind of situation. You have to think when you do something
This is my dream scenario to be able to spend time on the details on my volvo like you have done here. Great job!!!
The inner pad wears faster because it is pressed onto the disc directly by the piston, the outside pad only applies a much lighter pressure to the disc because it is only pulled on by the mechanical slide of the calliper on those slide pins. So the inner pad does the bulk of the braking effort. Great video btw.
You can get more even wear by "dressing" the slide pins. Chuck them in a drill or lathe and burnish the surface while they are spinning. Don't take off pin material, just polish off the grunge. The other thing you can do is if you soft brake lines are old, replace them. When they are old their inner surface can separate from the case and hold line pressure when they should not, making the inner brake drag a little. Also check for roughness where the caliper is supposed to slide on the bracket.
love the fog lamps. i will be installing on my car. love how you are very careful and take good care of your car
Well done!! Steps and details are impressive!! I believe this procedure will work for my C70
my v70 from 09 has been driven for 200 000km now, 170 000 by me ;) my old v70 from 02 is up to 560 000km and still going strong.
Wow! Respect.
Great Job 👍 Next month I have to do the same work on my V60 T6 from 2019 with now round about 64,000 Km. I bought the brake pads and the rotors directly by ATE, so I was able to save a lot of money. Hopefully it is the same quality in comparison to the original parts. Best Regards from Germany, Martin
I really enjoy watching your videos. You are a Great instructor. Greetings from a Dutch living in Switzerland.
I just want to let people know that i replaced my break discs and pads this week with items from Yellows from EBC They are just fantastic. (I do not have anything to do with the company) They say they do not make any but after talking to TIM in tech they do, they are just for the Volvo xc60 For some reason they dont say that they make it directly for the Volvo XC 70 2008. I purchased a full set and it stops in half the distance much better then the stock OMD parts. So for anyone who wants to know the following breaks sets do fit a 2008 VOLVO xc70 just take of the old and pop on the new, They are a perfect fit. I hope this helps people as it was bloody hard work finding upgraded breaks for the old lass. These are used on the street day in day out. Last week they saved the front end of my car on the duel carriage way when someone with out break lights stopped quickly.
FRONT - DP41914R / USR1549
(PD08KF235)
REAR (SOLID) - DP41934R / USR1592
(PD08KR355)
REAR (VENTED) - DP41934R / USR1590
(PD08KR357)
Best how to video i ve seen so far
Very nice, I’ll do this job on my 2011 XC60. I think my rotors are 328mm but the procedure is the same. Thanks for sharing!
Working on older cars, I've always used Copper grease between the hub and rotor and between pad and caliper. I wonder how different they work over time and more extreme winter conditions.
So, as the caliper has only one piston, the whole caliper slides on those slider pins. You need to lubricate them to ensure that the caliper can slide freely. The inner pad is the one the piston pushes. Outer one relies on the slider pins to allow the caliper slide freely. After a while, the slider pins get jammed up and the caliper can't slide freely anymore. Then, when you brake lightly, the inner pad makes greater contact to the disc and that's why the inner pads wear more quickly than the outer ones.
It's always fun to see your wonderful job! Thank you!
Your videos are amazing this is another jewel amongst the gems. Man love your vids keep rocking.
Good work. A few questions:
Why didn't you remove the caliper and bracket, rotor, pads and only then brushed off all the rust first? It'd make a whole lot more sense to clean all the rust first before painting the brake and suspension components.
Nice to see someone use correct torque values as opposed to the often-used FT* value.
*FT - Friggin' Tight
Thanks a lot you are simply the best, after watching your video I ordered the correct pads (316 mm) and changed them with ease. I bought ATE Ceramic pads.
Very nice video as always! Happy Canada Day!
Yep, its tomorrow!
Thanks a lot for this video. I was able to change my front rotors and pads last week on my volvo s80 2010 T6. The only difference is that mine had 300mm rotors instead of 316mm. I will try the rear ones next week
Superb video and thanks for providing the detailed steps. A job well done.
Great job. Your work is too a much higher standard than a dealers workshop. My XC60 had the same issue with one pad wearing more than the other. I see you have started a new line in mechanics trousers 😀😀
Working on a Volvo is far more efficient if you are still in pyjamas. :-)
Pyjamas are comfy :)
@@burimskenderi1904 Comfy :)
Great job buddy 👍 greetings from Sweden 🇸🇪☀️
Thx! Hello from Canada and thx for a very nice Swedish car.
I've not seen the brake pads wear this unevenly. How do the surface roughness compare on the 2 faces of the rotor? Another explanation would be that the slider pins are not sliding freely, eating up some of the counterforce delivered to the outside pad. A 3rd theory is that the outer face of rotor is more exposed to a lubricating residue, lowering the coefficient of friction.
As an A&P Mechanic, my suspicion about the uneven wear of the inner and outer brake pads is that the lubricant on either the slider pins or the guide horns on the disc pad ran out of lubricant over time. The disc pad then jammed on one side or the other causing the pad to move at an angle instead of equally for even wear of the pad. Without equal movement of the pads within their guides along the slider pins , the pads wear unevenly. This is evident by different wear (thickness) of the worn pads and/or one disc pad looking thicker on one edge end verses the opposite edge end. That has been my observations with single piston disk brake systems on a variety of vehicles using disc brakes!
An excellent & informative production from a perfectionist. Thank you for your informative series.
Hi. I am a bit worried about the grease on the hub. This should be used only on calipers to make brake pads move smoothly. Anything applied on hub may end up with bent rotor. I have spoken with many mechanics and they have confirmed it.
I tiny bit of copper grease would stop it from rusting together, right? I'm more worried about it being sillicone.
@@martij30 copper grease is not good idea. Better use anti seize aluminium paste. Between disc brake and wheel hub use ceramic grease.
@@damiansmigielski What's the main difference between aluminium paste and copper grease? As far as I know, both can be used like an anti seize to be put between hub and rotor, just like ceramic grease.
@@martij30 electrochemical.
@@damiansmigielski So what/how does the copper grease affect the hub or rotor, that aluminium/ceramic grease does not?
Great job. Just one addition - in these brake systems, do not lubricate the caliper guides!
Yes another great video from this man, I have just renewed my front Discs and pads using Pagid which are German quality,and done various other mods to the car also, very helpful information from his videos, Thank you keep them coming!
I like the video very much, enjoyed it and had a professional-money-saving advice. Everyone should love his/hers volvo as you do! Great Video!
I believe the inner pad strikes the disk first and does most of the binding. You can see it do that ; when you recorded the brakes moving.
Makes sense. Thx for the tip
@@volvosweden Hi, in some cases the bushing arround the slide pins is compressed by the oxidation in the bracket's hole where It is fitted. The whole gets a smaller diameter and the slide does not move well. This can cause more wear in the inner pad. Good to use original pads! Was a nice video! Tack!
Oh, you were a little late with the video, I just finished the same job on my XC70. I also had this uneven wear problem in the front, my inner pads were significantly more worn. On the rear calipers the wear was more even but not perfect, the slider pins in the rear were almost completely seized.
My Vida says that there is no need to lubricate the sliding pins. However I do have ATE braking system as yours.Volvo v40 CC. 2015
Another great video Yuri. Looks like a lot of time and effort but the results speak for themselves . Don’t know where you get the time for all this with two young sons ! I think if I suggested this job to my wife I’d be told where to go. My 2013 D5 xc70 will have to wait a bit longer . Thanks for sharing .
Hey. I dont have the time but still find it. Every evening after kids go to bed I would spend some time. I love summer time when it gets dark at 10pm.
Thx
Gonna do this during the weekend if everything goes as planned. Apparently you shouldn't have metal to metal, who would've thought..? 😅 But as usual, your video instills confidence in doing the job myself as opposed to asking the shop/a friend to do it 😁
Best instruction video ever. - Keep up the good work rgds. Bergen, Norway