You just convinced me to do my own brakes on my 2005 V70. I have been told by my Volvo guy that I MUST bring it in for brakes. Apparently this is the same as any other car Ive done brakes on, except for the rubber boots and that spring.
+@timothymallon Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
You do a fine job on your videos. One important correction I have for you though. At 15:01 you show torqueing the axel bolt to 26 foot pounds. This is way to loose. The correct spec is 26 foot pounds PLUS 90 DEGREES motion on the wrench. The plus 90 degrees will be much tighter than 26 foot pounds.
Just loosen the lid on the break reserve and you avoid the mess of break fluid when pushing the piston in. And it depends on the rotor manufacturing to which way the slots go, some have them eating the wind, some have the flowing with the wind. Most are labled.
Can I remove the bracket with the caliper still attached to it or should I first remove the caliper then the bracket? Asking because I already replaced my pads and wondering if I can remove the whole assembly in one go, then replace the rotors. Thanks 👍
One of the better videos I’ve seen that is detailed in the steps and also hits on all the little parts of the brake job. Nice video and nice work!
You just convinced me to do my own brakes on my 2005 V70. I have been told by my Volvo guy that I MUST bring it in for brakes. Apparently this is the same as any other car Ive done brakes on, except for the rubber boots and that spring.
+@timothymallon Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
You do a fine job on your videos. One important correction I have for you though. At 15:01 you show torqueing the axel bolt to 26 foot pounds. This is way to loose. The correct spec is 26 foot pounds PLUS 90 DEGREES motion on the wrench. The plus 90 degrees will be much tighter than 26 foot pounds.
Just loosen the lid on the break reserve and you avoid the mess of break fluid when pushing the piston in. And it depends on the rotor manufacturing to which way the slots go, some have them eating the wind, some have the flowing with the wind. Most are labled.
Very through Im grateful for your expertise
Absolutely awesome :) Thanks!
Brilliantly explained!! Thank you!! 17:38
very good job
Great video, thank you!
Nice job!
Nice detailed video but I noticed that you didn't use any lubrication on the edges or contact of the pads. Why was that?
Can I remove the bracket with the caliper still attached to it or should I first remove the caliper then the bracket? Asking because I already replaced my pads and wondering if I can remove the whole assembly in one go, then replace the rotors. Thanks 👍
Nice
Always try to use silicone spray on electrical connectors