Really excellent series of videos, great photography and calm! Not like the US clips where they spend 10 mins telling us what they’re going to do, then 2 mins do it, then spend 10mins telling us what they did! Thanks and keep up the good work!
Brake oil is hygroscopic, and that is the main reason for it to be replaced. Shure, - some wear, tear and degradation does occur during years of use, but the possible presence of water in the break fluid is the real killer. Water in brake fluid + high brake temperature = steam bubbles in the brake system. - Anyway, your presentation of your repair and service of Volvo cars are spotless perfect. From a Volvo owner since 1986. In a Volvo, the star sits behind the steering wheel :-).
Mine is on a 58 plate, (making it 2009 January) and it has 191000 miles on it! No smoke, no excessive oil consumption and very quiet. Excellent engines.
I love how this guy is taking care about his volvo. At same time im wondering how the car engine is so clean? I really want to see a video about engine cleaning.
Mate, your videos are awesome. Just some little info. The bubbles when you first bled that caliper were air coming in through the nipple's thread because you opened it a bit too much. It took me over a litre of fluid on a previous car to work out that. Ha, ha
Your videos are THE BEST! Thank you for taking the time to make these and share them. I have a 2010 S80 T6 AWD (my fifth Volvo) and it's mechanically identical to your XC70. Your videos have given me the knowledge and the confidence to do a lot of regular maintenance myself. I especially like your calm nature as you do these procedures; your voice makes me sleepy. Lol. Thanks, again!
Never used a power bleeder. I use a rubber pipe with a non return valve, they work OK. I saw a video of rear pads change with EPB. The guy used a battery to unwind the brake motors, easier than dismantling it.
Thanks for presenting the procedure. Really like how it is step by step. Wonder presentation..and very direct without nla...bla..bla.. Looking forward to viewing more of your videos on Volvo repairs and maintenance. A toast of beer to you
In the US everyone always does farther rear first and front last. It must work well either way . I changed my fluid at 60k miles and fluid was bright yellow just like the new brake fluid.
This is great video. While necessary to video-record this method, I found I could bleed the FRONTS without removing the wheels....just raise the wheel truss you're working on about 3" so you can get under there to work on it. The rears?...those need to have the wheel removed because of where the bleed-nipple is located.
It's a great product, but recently, after doing the checks for leaks, pumped it up to 15 psi, opened the first bleeder valve, when I heard a hissing sound, and saw brake fluid gushing onto the windshield area. The clear hose had ruptured, so I emailed Motive to suggest that they give a warning to periodically change the clear hose; unfortunately, they don't read emails. I could not move the car outside to hose it off, but with a bucket of soapy water I was able to clean in off without damaging the paint. The plastics were affected, but I think I can bring them back.
Great video. I watched your video on the rear brakes replacment and i learned to change them myself. I drive a volvo v70 mk3 2.4d geartronic and I would to see how to change the transmission fluid. Looking for to watching your videos in the future
I usually stick a drill bit backwards in each bleeder when opening them to make sure I don't wring them off while loosening them. Sometimes rust gets in the threads making it hard to loosen.
Thanks just confirmed what i though when the dealer wanted to do a flush on a 25k mile car. Waste of money. If I had driven 50k in the last 5 years. I would have justified it. But for as little as i drive. But it’s good to see the process for when it is necessary.
and 14) al or all air from the system. Bleeding sequence 11 If the hydraulic system has only been partially disconnected and suitable precautions were taken to minimise fluid loss, it should only be necessary to bleed that part of the system (ie, the primary or secondary circuit). 12 If the complete system is to be bled, then it should be done in the following sequence: a) Front left-hand brake b) Front right-hand brake. c) Rear left-hand brake. d) Rear right-hand brake Bleeding This is from Haynes manual for xc90 and xc60, 2003-2013
Your videos are magnificent. All of them. Thank you. I have a 2006 XC70 and a 2009 v70 and my simple question is: How do you remove the filter from the brake reservoir without damaging it? Mine seem to be in there very tight. Obviously this is so I can extract the old fluid with a turkey baster prior to the power bleed.
That was a lot of air bubbles, maybe the hose wasn't tight enough over the bleeder ? You can see at 7:38 too much air is getting inside the hose even with the bleeder closed. Just undo the bleeder 1/2 or 1 turn, than should be enough. Also, you don't need to tighten down the bleeder too strong, just enough to be gently tight so you can undo it easily the next time. Otherwise, if it's tightened down too strong, it may get stuck from rust. By the way, brake fluid is easily washed off the floor with a simple garden hose.
Quick question please .can manual bleeding (either gravity bleed or 2 person method ) be used instead of Motiv power tool (2011 Volvo XC-60 T6 .Thank you for your help. Great video - all your videos are the best I have encountered. Regards
Very nice video well done one of the best video i have ever watched on TH-cam. I'm going to bleed my 2006 Mercedes Benz S500 I have installed brand new rotors and brake pads. And my wife car which is 2008 BMW 750 Li This car has ABS issue I did change rotors and pads but the ABS light does not go off. Dealers @ BMW want to charge $1500. for complete brake job. For this 2008 BMW 750Li The rotors and pads cost me $380 at auto parts I did purchased the brake bleeding tool but it the different vacuum brake bleeding. I like the one you have hope i can find one thanks for posting the video well done keep it up.
Hello. I have an XC 70 T6 wagon too. Thank you for these videos! It's so much easier when you can watch before you do one of these jobs. It's also good to see you have safe work habits. I've done brake fluid bleeds on 3 BMWs and a Mercedes Benz before and the advice from those companies was always to start at the wheel furthest from the brake fluid reservoir. You mention that Volvo told you to do it in exactly the reverse order. Do you know why they want to go in that order? I guess the theory is if you start furthest away first, you will drain the reservoir more completely of old fluid, but the more I think about it, I'm not sure that the order will effect the thoroughness of the flush.
I have a Volvo V40 and the brake fluid is also used by the hydraulic clutch so you need bleeding the slave cylinder clutch. But I didn't see that being done for your vehicle. Is not required in your model ?
I once used a power bleeder on an old Audi and it blew the brake fluid reservoir… those plastic housing can become brittle with age. I’ve been using MityVac since then as I felt it’s safer to pull than push the fluid.
I was always taught to start from the furthest wheel from the reservoir, and finish at the closest. This video is literally opposite. Which way is correct? Also, you should top up the reservoir BEFORE putting the pressure bleeder on
nice job! to do the transmission flush do I need the same kind of bleeder? or no bleeder needed at all? looking forward to seeing more of your videos! especially the transmission flush😂 👌👍
Great Video! I have a Motive bleeder like that. I haven't checked yet but is the cap compatible with the XC? Also, I assume you removed the wheels so you can clearly show what you are doing. But in my other cars I don't usually remove the wheels to bleed the brakes.
@@volvosweden The XC70 P3 FRONTS can be bled by merely raising the wheel about 3" to get under there. The REARS I found required removing the wheels, because of where the bleeder-nipple is located.
In your comment you notice a lot of air bubbles when opening the first bleed valve. Could this have been caused by the fact that, when you pressurized the system with the pump on the bleeder, not only the fluid form the bleeder is transported to the brake fluid reservoir of the car, but also a lot of airbubbles (they can even been seen in the hose form the bleeder to the reservoir)?
Yes, the air was in the connector hose when it was first hooked up. All this air has to be pushed through the brake line and expelled, until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out the caliper at the bleeder valve.
Great video but I thought for break bleeding you are supposed to start from the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and then work to the closest one.
Good video. But the procedure is incomplete. The fluid into the abs pump and valves remains the old fluid. You need a scan tool to manage the abs system and change all the fluid. It is not easy to find a scan tool to do this job. I am searching for a solution for my 2011 Camaro. Thanks for sharing.
@@dataflowgeometry Dear friend. Unfortunately, the cars of a time here have brought very specific and proprietary systems from the manufacturers. Each car and each system needs a specific electronic tool. This forces us to use the services of the manufacturers' specialized workshops. In a few cases of vehicles there are scan tools that perform many tests and procedures. But this is not very common. I have a GM Camaro 2011 and I cannot perform correctly the procedure of the video because the scan tools available do not bring this feature. As like Volvosweden, I will change the brake fluid of the Camaro without bleeding the ABS correctly. Best regards.
Just found your channel... nice job. Now I can start working on my wife car! Do you think the air bubbles were a result of leak or just too much time between flushes?
This Power Bleeder tool introduced some air that was in the plastic filler hose when first connecting it to the reservoir. That air has to be completely worked through the system and ejected at the first caliper bled. If not, you end up with a "soft" brake pedal and unsafe braking power.
@@pbierre I really doubt that air was from the bleeder. You adding some air to reservoir but all air stays at highest point of reservoir and all fluid goes down. If your reservoir completely dry then air will enter into system.
actually you must start from the rear right, then o to the rear left, then front right and then front left. Because the brake line to the rear right is the longest so you must start there.
volvosweden I believe the reason for Volvos departure from bleeding convention is that these cars have 2 hydraulic fluid circuits, front and rear, i.e. the front fluid never mixes with the rear.
Jack is right. Because there's air in the connector hose at the beginning of bleeding at 1st wheel, all that air has to be pushed though to the caliper and ejected back out, completely. Choosing the shortest path for this air to travel makes sense.
why not first bleed the 'farthest' wheel from the reservoir? Any chance those tiney air bubbles are leaking past the bleeder nipple threads? I'd say not since you are pressurizing from the top down. tho I seem to get lots of bubbles from suction type bleeders with loose bleed nipples too common.
Bleeding sequence that you showed: Front driver's side, front passenger's side, rear driver's side, rear passenger's side. Why? Does this apply to 2008 Volvo XC90 as well? Thanks for the video.
I wondered the same thing. I have an 04 XC70 that only acquired a few months ago. There does not seem to be a specific location to jack the car up. The jack points that the manual shows is vague. I've jacked it up a few ties and I'm just taking my best guess.
When using the scissors jack that comes with 04 XC70, there is a jack bar just under each front door. This jack system is only for changing a tire away from home. It lifts BOTH front and rear tire at the same time. When raising the car to work at home, I use a hydraulic floor jack (like shown in this video). You lift the unibody frame when jacking up the front. In the rear, you lift the frame bar that attaches to the lower spring end supporting the wheel. Place the jack where the frame presents a level, flat surface for the top of jack to contact squarely. You raise 1/4 of the car at a time....this gives maximum control and safety. As shown, after lifting, place a steel jackstand near to hydraulic jack as a backup in case hydraulic jack were to fail. It doesn't have to contact frame, but stand only close to that height.
Thanks for the video! Please send me the link for the Power Fist 10mm "flare nut" bit (time marker on the video = 2:46). I googled for it with no luck. What is it called ?
Really excellent series of videos, great photography and calm! Not like the US clips where they spend 10 mins telling us what they’re going to do, then 2 mins do it, then spend 10mins telling us what they did! Thanks and keep up the good work!
+Mark Hooper thx for your feedback. Will keep it in mind. More to come.
Wakakaka
Yes an american would probably use the ugga dugga gun
This must be the most well-maintained XC70 still out there!
Brake oil is hygroscopic, and that is the main reason for it to be replaced.
Shure, - some wear, tear and degradation does occur during years of use, but the possible presence of water in the break fluid is the real killer.
Water in brake fluid + high brake temperature = steam bubbles in the brake system.
-
Anyway, your presentation of your repair and service of Volvo cars are spotless perfect.
From a Volvo owner since 1986.
In a Volvo, the star sits behind the steering wheel :-).
Mine is on a 58 plate, (making it 2009 January) and it has 191000 miles on it! No smoke, no excessive oil consumption and very quiet. Excellent engines.
I drive a 2007 Volvo C30 2.0D and in my case I need to flush clutch as it's also operated with brake.
Great guide!
I love how this guy is taking care about his volvo. At same time im wondering how the car engine is so clean? I really want to see a video about engine cleaning.
+Sufian Osman Will do the engine wash video. Thx!
+volvosweden thank you so much, i really appreciate that.
Mate, your videos are awesome. Just some little info. The bubbles when you first bled that caliper were air coming in through the nipple's thread because you opened it a bit too much. It took me over a litre of fluid on a previous car to work out that. Ha, ha
Your videos are THE BEST! Thank you for taking the time to make these and share them. I have a 2010 S80 T6 AWD (my fifth Volvo) and it's mechanically identical to your XC70. Your videos have given me the knowledge and the confidence to do a lot of regular maintenance myself. I especially like your calm nature as you do these procedures; your voice makes me sleepy. Lol. Thanks, again!
Thx. Regarding making you sleepy. I know that I will never be an actor. More videos to come. Angle gear, rear diff and Haldex AWD fluids.
+volvosweden Don't ever change the way you do these videos, it's perfect!
Nice video and explanation. The Motive bleeder is an excellent tool that makes this a one-person job. Thank you.
Your videos are spotless. Excellent english. Much appreciated
Never used a power bleeder. I use a rubber pipe with a non return valve, they work OK. I saw a video of rear pads change with EPB. The guy used a battery to unwind the brake motors, easier than dismantling it.
Every video is so clear! Thank you! I see you always use original Volvo parts!
I like the methodical and clear explanation. I have a mityvac, just need the cap for the master cylinder.
Thanks for presenting the procedure.
Really like how it is step by step.
Wonder presentation..and very direct without nla...bla..bla..
Looking forward to viewing more of your videos on Volvo repairs and maintenance.
A toast of beer to you
Really good videos, we see all of your videos from Spain. we have a volvo S80 AWD 205 hp
Thank you for your videos and all the effort you put into them super helpful
In the US everyone always does farther rear first and front last. It must work well either way . I changed my fluid at 60k miles and fluid was bright yellow just like the new brake fluid.
Great videos for Volvo. It's really helps to do the rep self.
This is great video. While necessary to video-record this method, I found I could bleed the FRONTS without removing the wheels....just raise the wheel truss you're working on about 3" so you can get under there to work on it. The rears?...those need to have the wheel removed because of where the bleed-nipple is located.
Thank you for this. I will do mine soon! Your video helps greatly!
I usually flush my brakes intime with pad changes, always keeping fresh fluid in the system that way.
It's a great product, but recently, after doing the checks for leaks, pumped it up to 15 psi, opened the first bleeder valve, when I heard a hissing sound, and saw brake fluid gushing onto the windshield area. The clear hose had ruptured, so I emailed Motive to suggest that they give a warning to periodically change the clear hose; unfortunately, they don't read emails. I could not move the car outside to hose it off, but with a bucket of soapy water I was able to clean in off without damaging the paint. The plastics were affected, but I think I can bring them back.
Again another great video from this man
Excellent job my friend.. Your car will last you many years..
Yuri, I must change my old school always starting from far back right site wheel, spasiba !
Once again, another excellent video. Many thanks.
Great video. I watched your video on the rear brakes replacment and i learned to change them myself. I drive a volvo v70 mk3 2.4d geartronic and I would to see how to change the transmission fluid. Looking for to watching your videos in the future
Will do the transmission, just not sure when.
Thank you.
So Great! Thanks! Always so helpful.
Excellent and thorough video. Thank you.
Great video, but I think that type of bleeder may introduce air into the fluid and you might need to bleed again later. Thanks for your videos!
I also have a Volvo. S40 Turbo intercooler. Perfect car :)
I usually stick a drill bit backwards in each bleeder when opening them to make sure I don't wring them off while loosening them. Sometimes rust gets in the threads making it hard to loosen.
Very good video! Going to do this to my S60R, Thank you!
VERY EDUCATIVE .THANK YOU.
I just had to look at this video again! Great!!
Thanks just confirmed what i though when the dealer wanted to do a flush on a 25k mile car. Waste of money. If I had driven 50k in the last 5 years. I would have justified it. But for as little as i drive. But it’s good to see the process for when it is necessary.
Very useful video. Well explained. Thanks!
and 14)
al or all air from
the system.
Bleeding sequence
11 If the hydraulic system has only been partially disconnected and suitable precautions were taken to minimise fluid loss, it should only be necessary to bleed that part of the system (ie, the primary or secondary circuit).
12 If the complete system is to be bled, then it should be done in the following sequence:
a) Front left-hand brake
b) Front right-hand brake.
c) Rear left-hand brake.
d) Rear right-hand brake
Bleeding
This is from Haynes manual for xc90 and xc60, 2003-2013
Very nice video - thank you for making it!
Thank you for the video. Very good.
next owner will be lucky to have your car
Perfect job! Very many thanks!
Спасибо! Отлично!
Gr8 video! Superb expertise. (You've lost quite a bit of weight since last year!)
Great episode, much appreciated
Thank you from Austria:-)
Your videos are magnificent. All of them. Thank you. I have a 2006 XC70 and a 2009 v70 and my simple question is: How do you remove the filter from the brake reservoir without damaging it? Mine seem to be in there very tight. Obviously this is so I can extract the old fluid with a turkey baster prior to the power bleed.
That was a lot of air bubbles, maybe the hose wasn't tight enough over the bleeder ? You can see at 7:38 too much air is getting inside the hose even with the bleeder closed. Just undo the bleeder 1/2 or 1 turn, than should be enough. Also, you don't need to tighten down the bleeder too strong, just enough to be gently tight so you can undo it easily the next time. Otherwise, if it's tightened down too strong, it may get stuck from rust. By the way, brake fluid is easily washed off the floor with a simple garden hose.
Yes; it was that MOTIVE PRODUCTS unit that was being advertised here. Free advertising on TH-cam. Great to see. that the label was always visible.
Great show mate, thanks.
Quick question please .can manual bleeding (either gravity bleed or 2 person method ) be used instead of Motiv power tool (2011 Volvo XC-60 T6 .Thank you for your help. Great video - all your videos are the best I have encountered. Regards
Very nice video well done one of the best video i have ever watched on TH-cam.
I'm going to bleed my 2006 Mercedes Benz S500 I have installed brand new rotors and brake pads. And my wife car which is 2008 BMW 750 Li This car has ABS issue I did change rotors and pads but the ABS light does not go off. Dealers @ BMW want to charge $1500. for complete brake job. For this 2008 BMW 750Li The rotors and pads cost me $380 at auto parts
I did purchased the brake bleeding tool but it the different vacuum brake bleeding. I like the one you have hope i can find one thanks for posting the video well done keep it up.
Glad my video helps others. Good luck
Thanks for the video. What were the special wrench pieces you used? Also, I thought you start in the rear furthest away from the driver? Great stuff
Good tutorial. Thank's !
Hello. I have an XC 70 T6 wagon too. Thank you for these videos! It's so much easier when you can watch before you do one of these jobs. It's also good to see you have safe work habits. I've done brake fluid bleeds on 3 BMWs and a Mercedes Benz before and the advice from those companies was always to start at the wheel furthest from the brake fluid reservoir. You mention that Volvo told you to do it in exactly the reverse order. Do you know why they want to go in that order? I guess the theory is if you start furthest away first, you will drain the reservoir more completely of old fluid, but the more I think about it, I'm not sure that the order will effect the thoroughness of the flush.
My wet chemistry lab protocol always teaches clean the shortest route and proceed
I got exactly those schools, now I must learn new, " never late to learn something new" thanks, spasiba to Yuri !!!
I have a Volvo V40 and the brake fluid is also used by the hydraulic clutch so you need bleeding the slave cylinder clutch. But I didn't see that being done for your vehicle. Is not required in your model ?
I once used a power bleeder on an old Audi and it blew the brake fluid reservoir… those plastic housing can become brittle with age. I’ve been using MityVac since then as I felt it’s safer to pull than push the fluid.
Have 1995 960, but still watched the whole video. Hah!
I was always taught to start from the furthest wheel from the reservoir, and finish at the closest.
This video is literally opposite.
Which way is correct?
Also, you should top up the reservoir BEFORE putting the pressure bleeder on
Thanks for video
The rotors and pads with the Volvo name on them are made in the Delphi factory.
I'm disappointed....no pajamas or crocks in this video - LOL!
Another great video - THANKS!
Funny! Thx
The Amazon Website stated that the Motive Power Bleeder was not compatible with my 2015 Volvo XC70? What model do you have?
Thanks, good tutorial
How about ABS bleed with "old fluid" still in the ABS unit thank you
nice job!
to do the transmission flush do I need the same kind of bleeder? or no bleeder needed at all?
looking forward to seeing more of your videos! especially the transmission flush😂
👌👍
cute bottles, I just bought vw bottles for my Jetta
Thanx its very good .
Great Video! I have a Motive bleeder like that. I haven't checked yet but is the cap compatible with the XC? Also, I assume you removed the wheels so you can clearly show what you are doing. But in my other cars I don't usually remove the wheels to bleed the brakes.
Depends what model of motive bleeder you got. For video purpose I did remove the wheels.
@@volvosweden The XC70 P3 FRONTS can be bled by merely raising the wheel about 3" to get under there. The REARS I found required removing the wheels, because of where the bleeder-nipple is located.
Great job ty
In your comment you notice a lot of air bubbles when opening the first bleed valve. Could this have been caused by the fact that, when you pressurized the system with the pump on the bleeder, not only the fluid form the bleeder is transported to the brake fluid reservoir of the car, but also a lot of airbubbles (they can even been seen in the hose form the bleeder to the reservoir)?
Could be. I thought about this possibility. But Unmade sure to wait until no more bubbles were present.
Yes, the air was in the connector hose when it was first hooked up. All this air has to be pushed through the brake line and expelled, until a solid stream of brake fluid comes out the caliper at the bleeder valve.
Love your job
Great video but I thought for break bleeding you are supposed to start from the caliper furthest from the master cylinder and then work to the closest one.
This was done as per Volvo manual.
nice job, but your old fluid seems fine, from looking at its colour
Not a big difference in color yes. But its almost eight years old.
Now I wonder where that brake fluid cover goes if you drop it down into that opening ?
Where do you buy that special tool to squirt out the brake liquid from the hoses' bleeder valve at 2:45?
Good video. But the procedure is incomplete. The fluid into the abs pump and valves remains the old fluid. You need a scan tool to manage the abs system and change all the fluid. It is not easy to find a scan tool to do this job. I am searching for a solution for my 2011 Camaro. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for pointing out the ABS parts of the hydraulic system. Hoping you can tell us how to bleed the ABS.
@@dataflowgeometry Dear friend. Unfortunately, the cars of a time here have brought very specific and proprietary systems from the manufacturers. Each car and each system needs a specific electronic tool. This forces us to use the services of the manufacturers' specialized workshops. In a few cases of vehicles there are scan tools that perform many tests and procedures. But this is not very common. I have a GM Camaro 2011 and I cannot perform correctly the procedure of the video because the scan tools available do not bring this feature. As like Volvosweden, I will change the brake fluid of the Camaro without bleeding the ABS correctly. Best regards.
Thanks again for this interesting video! By the way, where to get the Motive Power Bleeder!
I ordered mine as a kit from IPD-USA.
Just found your channel... nice job. Now I can start working on my wife car! Do you think the air bubbles were a result of leak or just too much time between flushes?
+pgreenx Nice. Hope you find it helpfull. Thx for subscribing.
This Power Bleeder tool introduced some air that was in the plastic filler hose when first connecting it to the reservoir. That air has to be completely worked through the system and ejected at the first caliper bled. If not, you end up with a "soft" brake pedal and unsafe braking power.
A better design for the Power Bleeder would begin by priming (bleeding) the connector hose, so that no air is pumped into the brake lines.
@@pbierre I really doubt that air was from the bleeder. You adding some air to reservoir but all air stays at highest point of reservoir and all fluid goes down. If your reservoir completely dry then air will enter into system.
Why did you not bleed the ABS? I think the Vida program has the ABS bleeding
Great video👍🏼
actually you must start from the rear right, then o to the rear left, then front right and then front left. Because the brake line to the rear right is the longest so you must start there.
+Nick Pierik I followed Volvo instructions.
volvosweden I believe the reason for Volvos departure from bleeding convention is that these cars have 2 hydraulic fluid circuits, front and rear, i.e. the front fluid never mixes with the rear.
Flushing is different than just bleeding. Cleaning the shortest circuit makes sense
Jack is right. Because there's air in the connector hose at the beginning of bleeding at 1st wheel, all that air has to be pushed though to the caliper and ejected back out, completely. Choosing the shortest path for this air to travel makes sense.
Nick Pierik Always depends where the ABS Master is located, but always starting with the longest line first, working in order to the shortest line.
why not first bleed the 'farthest' wheel from the reservoir? Any chance those tiney air bubbles are leaking past the bleeder nipple threads? I'd say not since you are pressurizing from the top down. tho I seem to get lots of bubbles from suction type bleeders with loose bleed nipples too common.
great vid.... where did u buy the pressure bleeder? good to have when alone
+Leatherkid01 Ipdusa.com
Bleeding sequence that you showed: Front driver's side, front passenger's side, rear driver's side, rear passenger's side. Why? Does this apply to 2008 Volvo XC90 as well? Thanks for the video.
+John Agonoy This is from Volvo official instructions. I am not sure about Xc90
How can you know witch pressure the Xc70 or v70 need? Is it 10-15 PSI for all xc70 and v70?
Hi
Can you demonstrate exactly where you safely place the garage jack and the jack stands under your car ( XV 70) next time around
+Helge Lassesen Will try not to forget.
I wondered the same thing. I have an 04 XC70 that only acquired a few months ago. There does not seem to be a specific location to jack the car up. The jack points that the manual shows is vague. I've jacked it up a few ties and I'm just taking my best guess.
When using the scissors jack that comes with 04 XC70, there is a jack bar just under each front door. This jack system is only for changing a tire away from home. It lifts BOTH front and rear tire at the same time.
When raising the car to work at home, I use a hydraulic floor jack (like shown in this video). You lift the unibody frame when jacking up the front.
In the rear, you lift the frame bar that attaches to the lower spring end supporting the wheel. Place the jack where the frame presents a level, flat surface for the top of jack to contact squarely. You raise 1/4 of the car at a time....this gives maximum control and safety.
As shown, after lifting, place a steel jackstand near to hydraulic jack as a backup in case hydraulic jack were to fail. It doesn't have to contact frame, but stand only close to that height.
Thanks for the video!
Please send me the link for the Power Fist 10mm "flare nut" bit (time marker on the video = 2:46). I googled for it with no luck. What is it called ?
Did you change the grille logo or is that standard? because i got the volvo xc70 2008 v6 but i have the old logo :/
Sequence for a 2001 V70 RHD please?,so many differing opinions on the net!
In right hand drive also start from yours driver side or from uk driver side?
From UK driver side. The booster is there and the abs pump
Hi, first the most distant wheel is changed!
NO, not according to VIDA, he did it perfect as he also has VIDA software ;)
Any reason why you start on the front calippers ??
Never start at the front brakes. You always start furthest back ofcurse :)
Volvo is reversed order, start at front left.
It depends on where the ABS module is. Where Volvo places it makes the front brakes furthest down the lines from the resevoir.
How can I replace transmission fluid from volco s40 2.4i, 2004 model?
Hey, Did you remove ABS fuse before starting? :)
No
Maravilhoso... melhor que muitos mecânicos.
how many ml of brake fluid do i need for volvo s60?
you forgot ABS and clutch brakefluids and torque from wheels
Same brake fluid for the 240?