I have been watching your vids. for awhile on ride rescue. I am currently restoring the convertible top frame then re fastening the existing top. I of course did not take enough pictures so it is ride rescue to the rescue. The frame if like a jigsaw puzzle. Which way does the bolt go, what side is the nylon bushing flange on etc. The videos help in solving those questions and the frame puzzle. Thanks for your help...
Question I have bled the system of air. I was thorough and very little air in the system-nominal air. Now there is quite a bit of air in the tubes after a couple of months(3) The pump spins fast then catches up and starts pumping, moving the cylinders. Is it common or un heard of to have air infiltrate into the system? there are no big leaks only a seep on one fitting. As mentioned I am rehabing the frame and now is a good time to bleed again. Any thoughts on air infiltration is it possible that is the problem, perhaps a new rebuilt lift cylinder??
I have experienced the same think many times. No leaks but keep getting more air in lines. I found it is just a matter of cycling the system many times in order to get all the air out of the cylinders. As long as you don't have any leaks, the system does eventually get most of the air out, but not all.
First off,thank you so much for making this video! You made the process seem less intimidating by making concise points and providing simple yet insightful information on each section. I'm restoring the top on a 2003 v6 Mustang that I inherited half disassembled. I've been having trouble in id'ing the no.2 and no.3 bows and how to set them correctly. You mentioned something about rubber spacers for the no.2 bows? Any extra info you or anyone can throw my way would be much appreciated.
Thanks for taking the time sharing you knowledge. I'm working on a 68 GS 400. My question has to do with the riveted joints. How loose should they be? My frame on right side (upper adjustment arm) has more side to side movement than left. Also the long straight part of arm is bent. I'm going to straighten arm. How do you suggest tightening the robots and how much? I was going to send too out to be installed. Because of you video, I have decided to dyi. Thanks in advance.
The joints should have minimal movement side to side. If the joints get worn loose they bind up and bend parts like yours has. I have had very good luck with tops not being loose with the exception of one 1967 Camaro. I had to remove the rivets and machine the metal parts to close up the worn holes. My brother worked for a machine shop and did the metal work for me.
Thank you. I have been able to drill the rivet to thin the out wall. Using a modified punch was able to flare the rivet. On the 68-69 A-body, 5/16" bolts were on critical pivot points. In 70-72 GM used 3/8". My holes are oblong on the one side. I'm going to drill them to take the 3/8" bolt. I've found 'online tube' to have the top hardware. I have not been able to find a diagram with all the hardware locations, which would be helpful. My top had incorrect bolts in at least one location. Again, thanks. I'm in the Houston area.
@@roberthasse9658 Good work with the idea of going up 1/16 in diameter for the bolts and rivets. I needed to drill some oblong holes on my backhoe. A machine shop told me to drill it out oversized, sleeve it with a brass sleeve and drill the sleeve to match the correct bolt or rivet size. So, if the 3/8 is still loose, you can look into brass sleeves. Good luck.
Thanx, good video very helpful. Just a suggestion when filming for us guys on our end that are looking for a particular part or assembly, Please move your camera slowly when going side to side (panning) My dad taught me that years ago when filming in SUPER 8.. 101 !
I had a 1967 camaro frame brake at the 1/4 window adjust. I welded the frame in the position where the old weld was, but now I struggle to get that side to attach at windshield. Any suggestions
When you are bleeding out the air, are the lines disconnected from the actuators? If they are still attached to the actuators where are the bubbles going, into the actuator?
As the system cycles up and down the air slowly moved to the pump tank. Once it has been cycled several times you will need to add some fluid to top it off. Be careful removing the fill cap (plug). The air in the tank builds up pressure and it can spray fluid if the filler hole is not pointing upwards. It is normal to have some bubbles in the lines but most of the air will end up in the pump reservoir.
Great video series!!!!!! I have searched TH-cam for years wishing someone would post a video about a 1st generation Camaro convertible top project. I'm giving a thumbs up to every one of yours I watch & I subscribed. Now... who did you buy your top kit from?????????????????
Glad you liked the videos! I was also surprised to see that there was not many convertible videos covering the Camaro tops. I purchase all the parts for this project from rickscamaros.com
@@bobdimartino6738 I do like glass but most of them fold in the middle and the seal comes apart with usage so they don't last as long. Plus once the seal splits the glass scrapes together and then they brake. People also forget when they load the trunk and place things where the glass folds down and that breaks the glass when the top goes down. I prefer vinyl windows.
I need some help with my 66 GTO convertible top. the top is on unfortunately needs some minor tweaks I think, is there any way I can send you some pics maybe you can give me some suggestions that will help me out thanks
What's the stuff called that goes over the pinch weld on the front bow ? I've found plactic stuff online but the material that came off is cloth mine is cloth and your looks like cloth based also.
It is a cloth tape. It is very similar to duct tape so that is what I use to replace it. I found some black cloth reinforced tape so it matches factory look.
@@riderescue I've watch most of your videos on replace the top on the Camaro and they're really detailed and helpful. I replacing top and thefront bow on my 71 lemans. Do have any tips on installing the tack strip that goes all across the bottom of the front bow ?
Thant is a very good question. I have never seen a manual frame so I don't know if they are the same as power tops or not. I know the manual frames have a sprint loaded arm and a latch of some type.
It's been almost 40 years since I converted a manual frame to a power top. But, as best I remember, the back bottom part of a manual frame is different compared to a factory power top frame. I'm talking about where the hydraulic cylinders attach to the frame. I now have an original 67 Camaro that came with a factory power top. It goes up & down a good bit smoother than the 68 I converted many tears a flow. There must be other distinctions betwixt 2 frames.
Un bolting most parts are pretty simple but there are large rivets that would need to be drilled out and I'm not sure how well it would all bolt back together.
It's amazing that I have never needed to glue in a tack strip. I looked up a few and Loctite PL Premium Fast Grab Polyurethane Construction Adhesive looks good. It bonds to metal and wood products so that should work great for the tack strips. Polyurethane adhesives seam to be recommended.
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watched it again, I am so thankful for these videos. I will certainly be referring to them when I get to the top restoration.
Glad you like them!
I have been watching your vids. for awhile on ride rescue. I am currently restoring the convertible top frame then re fastening the existing top. I of course did not take enough pictures so it is ride rescue to the rescue. The frame if like a jigsaw puzzle. Which way does the bolt go, what side is the nylon bushing flange on etc. The videos help in solving those questions and the frame puzzle. Thanks for your help...
I have leaky cylinders in my '68. Trying to figure out how to replace them. You answered a lot of my questions. Thank you for this video!
Glad to hear the video help you.
Question I have bled the system of air. I was thorough and very little air in the system-nominal air. Now there is quite a bit of air
in the tubes after a couple of months(3) The pump spins fast then catches up and starts pumping, moving the cylinders. Is it common or un heard of to have air infiltrate into the system? there are no big leaks only a seep on one fitting. As mentioned I am rehabing the frame and now is a good time to bleed again. Any thoughts on air infiltration is it possible that is the problem, perhaps a new rebuilt lift cylinder??
I have experienced the same think many times. No leaks but keep getting more air in lines. I found it is just a matter of cycling the system many times in order to get all the air out of the cylinders. As long as you don't have any leaks, the system does eventually get most of the air out, but not all.
First off,thank you so much for making this video! You made the process seem less intimidating by making concise points and providing simple yet insightful information on each section. I'm restoring the top on a 2003 v6 Mustang that I inherited half disassembled. I've been having trouble in id'ing the no.2 and no.3 bows and how to set them correctly. You mentioned something about rubber spacers for the no.2 bows? Any extra info you or anyone can throw my way would be much appreciated.
Great vide
Great video man. I needed this. I’m rebuilding a 67 and I had no clue on how to get the top on. Thanks for the great video.
I'm happy to share my years of practice with others. Good luck with your 67.
Very good and informative..Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks excellent well done garage home mechanic well explained as to why and how. Thanks
Glad my video help. Thanks for watching!
Nice
Thanks for taking the time sharing you knowledge. I'm working on a 68 GS 400. My question has to do with the riveted joints. How loose should they be? My frame on right side (upper adjustment arm) has more side to side movement than left. Also the long straight part of arm is bent. I'm going to straighten arm. How do you suggest tightening the robots and how much?
I was going to send too out to be installed. Because of you video, I have decided to dyi. Thanks in advance.
The joints should have minimal movement side to side. If the joints get worn loose they bind up and bend parts like yours has. I have had very good luck with tops not being loose with the exception of one 1967 Camaro. I had to remove the rivets and machine the metal parts to close up the worn holes. My brother worked for a machine shop and did the metal work for me.
Thank you. I have been able to drill the rivet to thin the out wall. Using a modified punch was able to flare the rivet. On the 68-69 A-body, 5/16" bolts were on critical pivot points. In 70-72 GM used 3/8". My holes are oblong on the one side. I'm going to drill them to take the 3/8" bolt. I've found 'online tube' to have the top hardware. I have not been able to find a diagram with all the hardware locations, which would be helpful. My top had incorrect bolts in at least one location. Again, thanks. I'm in the Houston area.
@@roberthasse9658 Good work with the idea of going up 1/16 in diameter for the bolts and rivets. I needed to drill some oblong holes on my backhoe. A machine shop told me to drill it out oversized, sleeve it with a brass sleeve and drill the sleeve to match the correct bolt or rivet size. So, if the 3/8 is still loose, you can look into brass sleeves. Good luck.
I have a 1970 convertible challenger watching these to see if it is a job i can do
Do you have a link to all parts
Thanks
Thanx, good video very helpful. Just a suggestion when filming for us guys on our end that are looking for a particular part or assembly, Please move your camera slowly when going side to side (panning) My dad taught me that years ago when filming in SUPER 8.. 101 !
Great suggestion! I'll try my best with my future videos.
I had a 1967 camaro frame brake at the 1/4 window adjust. I welded the frame in the position where the old weld was, but now I struggle to get that side to attach at windshield. Any suggestions
Great video ! Iearn a lot
Glad it helped shed light about these tops and how they work.
When you are bleeding out the air, are the lines disconnected from the actuators? If they are still attached to the actuators where are the bubbles going, into the actuator?
As the system cycles up and down the air slowly moved to the pump tank. Once it has been cycled several times you will need to add some fluid to top it off. Be careful removing the fill cap (plug). The air in the tank builds up pressure and it can spray fluid if the filler hole is not pointing upwards. It is normal to have some bubbles in the lines but most of the air will end up in the pump reservoir.
Hi there ... Really very helpful...
How cn u help us to provide all this kit information ..
Great video series!!!!!! I have searched TH-cam for years wishing someone would post a video about a 1st generation Camaro convertible top project. I'm giving a thumbs up to every one of yours I watch & I subscribed.
Now... who did you buy your top kit from?????????????????
Glad you liked the videos! I was also surprised to see that there was not many convertible videos covering the Camaro tops.
I purchase all the parts for this project from rickscamaros.com
what do you suggest for a top company ez tops any good?
I have installed many tops and I have only had one bad one but that was over 20 years ago. I can't think of any brands that are better than another.
I've heard that glass back windows always break is this true? and do you know why? the guy that does them says he wont do glass on plastic
@@bobdimartino6738 I do like glass but most of them fold in the middle and the seal comes apart with usage so they don't last as long. Plus once the seal splits the glass scrapes together and then they brake. People also forget when they load the trunk and place things where the glass folds down and that breaks the glass when the top goes down. I prefer vinyl windows.
Do you know a place to get parts for the top? I have a 68 power top camaro that has a broken piece on the front bow.
I need some help with my 66 GTO convertible top. the top is on unfortunately needs some minor tweaks I think, is there any way I can send you some pics maybe you can give me some suggestions that will help me out thanks
awesome video. is the Camaro top frame similar to the 70 Chevelle conv top frame?
Yes it is pretty much the same, just a bit larger.
What's the stuff called that goes over the pinch weld on the front bow ? I've found plactic stuff online but the material that came off is cloth mine is cloth and your looks like cloth based also.
It is a cloth tape. It is very similar to duct tape so that is what I use to replace it. I found some black cloth reinforced tape so it matches factory look.
@@riderescue I've watch most of your videos on replace the top on the Camaro and they're really detailed and helpful. I replacing top and thefront bow on my 71 lemans. Do have any tips on installing the tack strip that goes all across the bottom of the front bow ?
Have you ever worked on a 63 Ford Thunderbird convertible
No. I have only done GM convts.
What is the difference between the power frame and manual frame.
Thant is a very good question. I have never seen a manual frame so I don't know if they are the same as power tops or not. I know the manual frames have a sprint loaded arm and a latch of some type.
It's been almost 40 years since I converted a manual frame to a power top. But, as best I remember, the back bottom part of a manual frame is different compared to a factory power top frame. I'm talking about where the hydraulic cylinders attach to the frame. I now have an original 67 Camaro that came with a factory power top. It goes up & down a good bit smoother than the 68 I converted many tears a flow. There must be other distinctions betwixt 2 frames.
Do you install Convertible tops on 1970 Chevelle‘s
I have done Full size, Midsize and Smaller GMs in the 60s and 70s. All of them are the same as this Camaro top, each are just size differences.
I put a manual frame on a hydraulic system and it bent the frame .
Ouch! Sad to hear that. I wouldn't have thought the rams could push that much force and the top would have that much resistance. Thant's crazy.
how hard is it to dissaseble rack for chroming ?
Un bolting most parts are pretty simple but there are large rivets that would need to be drilled out and I'm not sure how well it would all bolt back together.
@@riderescue Thanks....I asked a guy at chicago muscle, and he recommend only painting it..I figure it can't be to hard if I keep seeing it being done
How to bond the tacking strip to to the second bow?
It's amazing that I have never needed to glue in a tack strip. I looked up a few and Loctite PL Premium Fast Grab Polyurethane Construction Adhesive looks good. It bonds to metal and wood products so that should work great for the tack strips. Polyurethane adhesives seam to be recommended.