When resetting the onboard computer, you have to ensure that your parking brake isn't on, otherwise you will get the message 'reset unsuccessful'. Really good video!!
One additional piece of advice to avoid squeaking noise. Alway apply a small amount of grease or lubricant where the two tabs of the spring clip touches the caliper.
Hi. This is so much easier if you take the slide pins out (7 or 9mm Hex) and pop the calliper off the calliper bracket before hitting the 18mm bolts for the rotor change. Shouldn’t use abrasives on the slide pins at all though, brake cleaner and rag wipe only, any surface imperfections can increase probability of seizing, should really be replaced if marked up. Not sure if removing, returning the calliper with pins fitted is going to make the more likely. Great guide though. Especially liked the brake fluid reminder, I use a 150ml syringe 👍🏻
Thanks for posting a comment Eddy! I love that trick! Going to be doing a giveaway soon on a smoke machine. Make sure to subscribe so you can keep an eye out for it!
Nice presentation. I know it maybe the way you filmed the video/edited, but I would have checked the brake fluid level after pumping the brake pedal. I've just ordered the parts (Brembo) to collect tomorrow and do just what you have done over the looonnnggg Jubil weekend. FYI, my fronts have done 68,000 miles and still have life left, but getting low. Dashboard has not alarmed yet, but must be getting close to.
Great video! Thank you so much. Clarification if you don't mind. You said below answering a comment that you used a channel lock pliers to compress the brake piston. I've done this on other brake jobs. Another person asked if they "need a computer to change a front pads brake ? to retract the plunger???" and you answered "You can use a special toll like I use in my video but a scanner that can retract the piston is helpful." Do I need a special tool to retract the piston just to change just the brake pads?
Hi Muddzy, Thank you and I would be happy to clarify. For the front brakes you do not need a special tool. Vehicles that is an electronic parking brake does need a special tool for the rear brake pad replacement.
Great video - thanks. One thing: I can see how to bring up the reset feature on the dash but once the front brake reset option appears, how do you initiate the reset? Thanks.
Remember unlike the rest of the world for some reason. European vehicles at least every one I have had and probably most. They use Lug Studs. The Lug nut AND Stud are the same. What that means is there is a pretty high probability of the wheel coming off if the tire is not supported. There are two reasons why this step is important. 1. Don’t totally remove the last lug nut until you are sure the tire is supported either with other hand or preferably another person. 2. If removing tires as a DIY raise the tire only as far as necessary to avoid additional weight. Amazon sells “Tire Trees”. Basically studs that thread into the lug stud. After you remove two of the lug studs you thread these trees into the opening. With the trees inserted you can remove two more of the lug studs leaving the last lug stud. This step assumes that all lug studs are loosened and ready for final removal. Ideally the last stud to come out should be on top. Install the trees on each side of the top stud and when you remove the stud the tire wont totally fall. Slide the tire over the studs and set on the floor. If you are note removing the rotors the “Tire Trees” can be left in place and makes tire removal and replacement SO MUCH easier and ultimately safer. Probably one of the begetter more obscure little trinkets that Amazon sells. About $7.00 and can be a good filler item if you are getting close to a minimal amount for “FREE SHIPPING”. I have a set that have worked for four different European vehicles.
Noob question here, but wouldn't it be easier to put the pads back in the pad bracket after wire-brushing/cleaning, and then insert the whole thing back into the caliper housing? I couldn't believe that you had to do all that work just balancing the thing on top of the rotor. For those of us without a garage lift looks like a challenge!
Hi Gegger59, LOL it was a balancing act. YES you can take the sliders off the bracket. I actually used to do it that way for many years but being flat rate at a shop leaving the sliders on is a bit faster. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the process! Did you do a set of brakes on your vehicle using the video?
Hi Jason, I must have missed that when editing. Yes you would push the piston back. Make sure to only have one side off at a time when you push the piston back.
How at your car appears so much range after reset -60.000 miles? and at mine is only 20.000km on front and 30.0000 in the rear brakes. I have brand new brakes and sensors!
Hi Konel, This would be what is called a forecast setting in your vehicle. It may be able to be changed by programming or CBS correction. But since BMWs use the sensor you can just watch for a brake pad low warming and if the value goes low with plenty of brake pad left just do a quick service reset.
That can be really confusing. When talking about a car left or right it should be as sitting in the car. But driver and passenger is really the best way to go.
Hi is this the right way , I see you took out the whole thing bracket with pads, some other videos they remove first the two bolts to make to make looses de bracket and pads , the. Remove the caliper brackets , I didn’t se you have to press the piston.
Hello Josue, You can do it the way I show or you can definitely take the bolts off the caliper. The way I showed is a faster way and you don't have to touch 2 bolts. But it can be awkward installing the pads.
Hi I just did all four rotors and pads , I wanna ask you , it’s normal feel little weird, when I brake slowly only, when I brake hard it’s stop right away, I was thinking may be because all are new rotors and pads.
That's great but why didn't you just remove the slide pins so the carrier can be out on and pads then slide calliper over them all and insert slide pins?
Hello, Good question bud. Because the rotors are being replaced there is less steps needed to performed if the sliders stay on. It is a preference. Since I have been flat rate most of my career doing the repair the most efficiently timewise is important.
@@vrsmartin2981 That is a great point. If anyone is struggling with this method, removing the sliders would definitely help! This may help another viewer and I appreciate your feedback!
Hi Ray! Yes I do compress the piston using channel lock pliers. The front calipers are the same as conventional calipers and you can use a brake piston tool, c clamp, or channel locks. On vehicles with electronic parking brakes on the rear a special tool is needed to screw the piston back into the caliper. Hope this helps :)
I am about to change my front pads and rotors on my 2011 550i. My rotors have two different numbers indicating left and right. How do I determine what is the left and right of the car? Thank you for a great video!
Sorry for the delay in the response Brian. You can use a website called www.realoem.com and input the part number and it will show you which is left and right.
Most manufacturers do recommend lubricating guide pins. But BMW does not. I think the material they use allows for sliding without grease. The rubber may also swell from certain grease contamination.
Curious to know why you changed the breaks when those break pads look like that they had alot of life left.couldnt have gotten a warning light from those.
Just changed mine for the same very reason, the vibration is awful at 70+mph and isn't uncommon on BMWs. My E39 did the same, some people just don't go into minute detail when changing brake pads and discs and thus ruin a new set due to a lack of cleaning and correct lubrication :(
Mine is a 2014 535i with the M sport package. I just finished doing mine. Everything is the same as on this video, however I opted for the drilled rotors. I deal with a place in Toronto that specializes in German cars, and they had everything in stock.
Hello, as long as you do not open the system via a caliper bleeder screw or line you will not have to bleed the system when doing brakes. But you will want to watch the fluid level in the reservoir to make sure it does not overflow when compression the caliper pistons. You can do a brake flush either before or after if you want new fluid.
I have a BMW f10 . The front brakes shake bad when I gently brake. I have already replaced the brake discs and pads like 3 times in 3 months. I have also replaced the lower suspension arms and the tie rod ends. After I replace the discs and pads the symptoms disappear for the first few days and then these symptoms come back again. Does anyone have these problems?
@@eyvazheydarli Hi Eyvaz, It may be related to aftermarket components. Make sure there is no play your wheel bearing or suspension. You should check hub runout. If the hub is warped it can lead to warpage. Also do not over torque the wheels.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank your for your response. I have actually checked the hubs as well and suspected very little play on one of the wheel bearings which I have now replaced. It’s very strange that car only shakes if I gently brake.
Should clean the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove oil applied to them to prevent corrosion in storage, surely? Maybe this oil will wipe off on first application of the pads but why risk contaminating new pads?
Hi Simón, If you use stock Rotors from BMW they come with a special coating spray. They are not oiled and the spray coating helps prevent rust. If you use aftermarket rotors from say AutoZone they are most likely covered in oil to prevent rust. You would use brake clean on those but not the stock OEM rotors.
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GgeGQOP10RQ/mqdefault.jpg)
When resetting the onboard computer, you have to ensure that your parking brake isn't on, otherwise you will get the message 'reset unsuccessful'. Really good video!!
Thanks for sharing that info! You are absolutely correct!
@@AskTheCarExperts no problem mate. Your video was a huge help. I literally had it open next to me on my ipad while changing my brakes today!
Great step by step video. The only part I wish you included was compressing the caliper piston. Thanks for this ,about to tackle the front
Hi Jeffrey, Thanks for your input!
One additional piece of advice to avoid squeaking noise. Alway apply a small amount of grease or lubricant where the two tabs of the spring clip touches the caliper.
Great advice!
Outstanding and thorough presentation to such a critical step task for BMWs.
The perfect video for a BMW DYI break job.. Thank you..
Hello ChiTownXRing, Great to hear! Thanks for commenting and watching!
Hi.
This is so much easier if you take the slide pins out (7 or 9mm Hex) and pop the calliper off the calliper bracket before hitting the 18mm bolts for the rotor change.
Shouldn’t use abrasives on the slide pins at all though, brake cleaner and rag wipe only, any surface imperfections can increase probability of seizing, should really be replaced if marked up. Not sure if removing, returning the calliper with pins fitted is going to make the more likely.
Great guide though. Especially liked the brake fluid reminder, I use a 150ml syringe 👍🏻
Thanks for that tip. About to do this job and anything that makes something easier is welcome.
Even easier is to not try and remove the pins at all, just take it all out together, easy.
Mine was slightly different in that the mounting bolts were torx sockets not a hex, nearly scuppered the job. But a 13mm socket fitted.
Outstanding video....very detailed with tool sizes and torque specs. Most helpful. Thank you!
Thanks Jay!
Talk about attention to detail....love it, this is what I look for in a video.
Thanks Keith!
Great video, loved the way you just slid out the pad carrier without removing the pins.
Great tip.😊
Thanks for posting a comment Eddy! I love that trick! Going to be doing a giveaway soon on a smoke machine. Make sure to subscribe so you can keep an eye out for it!
Great video!!! It's been awhile since I've done brakes. This video was just what I needed. Thank you!
Hi Horace, Great to hear! Thanks for posting a comment!
Excellent. Clear, concise. Thanks for your time and effort.
Great video made the job very easy to complete.
Awesome Ellen! Thanks for letting me know.
Really liked this video. in depth but easy to understand. Just bought a used 2016 535i X Drive and learning.
Thanks Mark! That is a great car! I hope you enjoy it!
Excellent video
That David!
Very good video,so detail and simple explanation.Do more videos on F10 please.👍👍👍
Thank You for a very detailed presentation. I think I am ready to Do it now
Your welcome James! Thanks for posting a comment!
Good video, wish there was a part list before the video. Other than that pretty good gets to the point. 👍
Nice presentation.
I know it maybe the way you filmed the video/edited, but I would have checked the brake fluid level after pumping the brake pedal.
I've just ordered the parts (Brembo) to collect tomorrow and do just what you have done over the looonnnggg Jubil weekend.
FYI, my fronts have done 68,000 miles and still have life left, but getting low. Dashboard has not alarmed yet, but must be getting close to.
Thanks Steve, That would have been a good point to mention! I must have overlooked mentioning it. I hope your brake job goes well!
Great video! Thank you so much. Clarification if you don't mind. You said below answering a comment that you used a channel lock pliers to compress the brake piston. I've done this on other brake jobs. Another person asked if they "need a computer to change a front pads brake ? to retract the plunger???" and you answered "You can use a special toll like I use in my video but a scanner that can retract the piston is helpful." Do I need a special tool to retract the piston just to change just the brake pads?
Hi Muddzy,
Thank you and I would be happy to clarify. For the front brakes you do not need a special tool. Vehicles that is an electronic parking brake does need a special tool for the rear brake pad replacement.
@@AskTheCarExperts Great - THANKS AGAIN!!!
Thank you so much for ur time and effort in putting out such a great vid!
Thank you for commenting and you are very welcome.
Great video - thanks. One thing: I can see how to bring up the reset feature on the dash but once the front brake reset option appears, how do you initiate the reset? Thanks.
Hello Mark, On most cars you let go and then press and hold again to reset.
Remember unlike the rest of the world for some reason. European vehicles at least every one I have had and probably most. They use Lug Studs. The Lug nut AND Stud are the same. What that means is there is a pretty high probability of the wheel coming off if the tire is not supported.
There are two reasons why this step is important. 1. Don’t totally remove the last lug nut until you are sure the tire is supported either with other hand or preferably another person. 2. If removing tires as a DIY raise the tire only as far as necessary to avoid additional weight.
Amazon sells “Tire Trees”. Basically studs that thread into the lug stud. After you remove two of the lug studs you thread these trees into the opening. With the trees inserted you can remove two more of the lug studs leaving the last lug stud. This step assumes that all lug studs are loosened and ready for final removal. Ideally the last stud to come out should be on top. Install the trees on each side of the top stud and when you remove the stud the tire wont totally fall. Slide the tire over the studs and set on the floor. If you are note removing the rotors the “Tire Trees” can be left in place and makes tire removal and replacement SO MUCH easier and ultimately safer. Probably one of the begetter more obscure little trinkets that Amazon sells. About $7.00 and can be a good filler item if you are getting close to a minimal amount for “FREE SHIPPING”. I have a set that have worked for four different European vehicles.
Your video skills are on point! This was very helpful and cannot wait to take on the job!
Thanks Noah!
Helo what brand of rotors?
Is there any piston to compress or is that just for the rear?
very well done!
Thanks Cristian!
Excellent video, very detailed and informative. Thanks!
Noob question here, but wouldn't it be easier to put the pads back in the pad bracket after wire-brushing/cleaning, and then insert the whole thing back into the caliper housing? I couldn't believe that you had to do all that work just balancing the thing on top of the rotor. For those of us without a garage lift looks like a challenge!
Hi Gegger59, LOL it was a balancing act. YES you can take the sliders off the bracket. I actually used to do it that way for many years but being flat rate at a shop leaving the sliders on is a bit faster. Thanks for sharing your thoughts on the process! Did you do a set of brakes on your vehicle using the video?
Great video! I didn't notice you having to push back the caliper piston in the video, is this something we need to consider when doing ours?
Hi Jason, I must have missed that when editing. Yes you would push the piston back. Make sure to only have one side off at a time when you push the piston back.
Great job
Thanks Randy! I hope it helped you get your brakes done :)
Fantastic video thanks for sharing it was really helpful
How at your car appears so much range after reset -60.000 miles? and at mine is only 20.000km on front and 30.0000 in the rear brakes. I have brand new brakes and sensors!
Hi Konel, This would be what is called a forecast setting in your vehicle. It may be able to be changed by programming or CBS correction. But since BMWs use the sensor you can just watch for a brake pad low warming and if the value goes low with plenty of brake pad left just do a quick service reset.
Thank you for the video! Will try to take on this one! Should be a breeze :p
Thanks. A very thorough video. We're the LH rotor and the RH rotor different on this car?
Thanks Jayesh, Some vehicles use directional rotors. This usually accounts for the different part numbers.
I have an F10 550i and the front and left rotors are different Jayesh. (The internal vanes are directional)
Did you have to push back the brake caliper piston before installing the new pads?
Hello Romeo, Yes push the piston bag all the way before installing the pads.
Yes but the brakes wasn't use that much so no need to
I would never understand why people use the words left or right,to me driver or passenger is more correct to use.
That can be really confusing. When talking about a car left or right it should be as sitting in the car. But driver and passenger is really the best way to go.
Great Video!
Glad to hear it helped!
Hi is this the right way , I see you took out the whole thing bracket with pads, some other videos they remove first the two bolts to make to make looses de bracket and pads , the. Remove the caliper brackets , I didn’t se you have to press the piston.
I have plan to do my rotors and pads all fours , is gonna be the first time
Hello Josue, You can do it the way I show or you can definitely take the bolts off the caliper. The way I showed is a faster way and you don't have to touch 2 bolts. But it can be awkward installing the pads.
Thanks
Hi I just did all four rotors and pads , I wanna ask you , it’s normal feel little weird, when I brake slowly only, when I brake hard it’s stop right away, I was thinking may be because all are new rotors and pads.
Are there wear sensors on both sides? I’m looking at a complete front brake kit and it comes with only one sensor. Thank you
Look a couple of posts above ... "Bmw uses a sensor in the left front and right rear. Only two sensors in total."
@@gregger59 thank you!
Thanks for helping!
Did you not reset the piston? Maybe I missed it.
Hello, Yes I used channel lock pliers to compress the piston.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank you!
That's great but why didn't you just remove the slide pins so the carrier can be out on and pads then slide calliper over them all and insert slide pins?
Hello, Good question bud. Because the rotors are being replaced there is less steps needed to performed if the sliders stay on. It is a preference. Since I have been flat rate most of my career doing the repair the most efficiently timewise is important.
@@AskTheCarExperts that's a fair one.
If you are used to it I spose its easy.
I was mainly thinking weight.
;-)
@@vrsmartin2981 That is a great point. If anyone is struggling with this method, removing the sliders would definitely help! This may help another viewer and I appreciate your feedback!
Brilliant! Thanks!
How do you if your car is equipped with a high speed brake system?
Just noticed the caliper says 666 7:45
Hi there. What procedure do you use to "bed" the brakes?
I didn't notice in the video but I've done brakes on other vehicles and I normally compress the piston did you compress the piston on this BMW
Hi Ray! Yes I do compress the piston using channel lock pliers. The front calipers are the same as conventional calipers and you can use a brake piston tool, c clamp, or channel locks. On vehicles with electronic parking brakes on the rear a special tool is needed to screw the piston back into the caliper. Hope this helps :)
I am about to change my front pads and rotors on my 2011 550i. My rotors have two different numbers indicating left and right. How do I determine what is the left and right of the car? Thank you for a great video!
Sorry for the delay in the response Brian. You can use a website called www.realoem.com and input the part number and it will show you which is left and right.
Driver Seat perspective for left and right side of car.
hi
great work. what is the rationale why not to lubricate the guide pins?
Most manufacturers do recommend lubricating guide pins. But BMW does not. I think the material they use allows for sliding without grease. The rubber may also swell from certain grease contamination.
Hey did yours have the electric parking brake?
Yes my video on the rear brakes shows the electronic parking brake procedure.
@@AskTheCarExperts cool thanks!
What model year is this BMW? 2016?
Hello Roberto, This could apply for 2010 to 2017. This was a later production vehicle so I think it was around 2016
@@AskTheCarExperts Also, forgot to ask the size of the locator allen socket that secures the rotor in place at 9:36?
@@rdecarolis1 Should be a 7mm Allen/ hex
Do you need break sensors on every wheel?
Hello Antonio, Bmw uses a sensor in the left front and right rear. Only two sensors in total.
@@AskTheCarExperts ok, thanks man!
Should I put loctite on the two caliper bolts?? If so, any specific loctite recommended?
You can use a small amount. Medium blue. Not red.
@@AskTheCarExperts Okay thanks and great video btw. I’m about to change mine with this video and AllData.
Curious to know why you changed the breaks when those break pads look like that they had alot of life left.couldnt have gotten a warning light from those.
This was for a brake vibration in which the owner of the vehicle requested new pads and rotors installed.
Just changed mine for the same very reason, the vibration is awful at 70+mph and isn't uncommon on BMWs. My E39 did the same, some people just don't go into minute detail when changing brake pads and discs and thus ruin a new set due to a lack of cleaning and correct lubrication :(
And where do you find all o your torque specs
Is it necessary to use the 2 piece riveted rotors? Good video. Thanks.
Hi Jim, The rotors where OEM but you could choose to use a non OEM rotor from your local part store.
Jim English Can’t get the 2 piece riveted rotors any more !! Bummer ... the new style oem rotors are single piece cast iron ! Made by brembo though
Nice job very through
Thank you Ravi :)
Bummer ... you can’t get the 2 piece aluminum hat oem rotors any more !
Yes you can. Here in the uk we have a choice from Ate,brembo and a few others all 2 piece. Check autodoc they ship worldwide.
Is this process the same
For the M Sport model? Mine is a 2011 535i M Sport and front brakes need need to be done.
Same car doesn’t matter
Mine is a 2014 535i with the M sport package. I just finished doing mine. Everything is the same as on this video, however I opted for the drilled rotors. I deal with a place in Toronto that specializes in German cars, and they had everything in stock.
@@rollydoucet8909 Just purchased a 535 and am from Toronto! Mind if I ask what the shop name is?
Do i need a computer to change a front pads brake ? to retract the plunger???
You can use a special toll like I use in my video but a scanner that can retract the piston is helpful.
@@AskTheCarExperts thanks 🙏🔥😅
Do you have to bleed the brake fluid before you work on the brakes?
Hello, as long as you do not open the system via a caliper bleeder screw or line you will not have to bleed the system when doing brakes. But you will want to watch the fluid level in the reservoir to make sure it does not overflow when compression the caliper pistons. You can do a brake flush either before or after if you want new fluid.
AskTheCarExperts great, thank you! 👍
I have a BMW f10 . The front brakes shake bad when I gently brake. I have already replaced the brake discs and pads like 3 times in 3 months. I have also replaced the lower suspension arms and the tie rod ends.
After I replace the discs and pads the symptoms disappear for the first few days and then these symptoms come back again. Does anyone have these problems?
Hello, Are you using BMW OEM brakes and rotors?
Thanks Justin!
@@AskTheCarExperts , no but I have tried ATE, Brembo and Bosch and only lightweight two-piece discs
@@eyvazheydarli Hi Eyvaz, It may be related to aftermarket components. Make sure there is no play your wheel bearing or suspension. You should check hub runout. If the hub is warped it can lead to warpage. Also do not over torque the wheels.
@@AskTheCarExperts Thank your for your response. I have actually checked the hubs as well and suspected very little play on one of the wheel bearings which I have now replaced. It’s very strange that car only shakes if I gently brake.
Should clean the new rotors with brake cleaner to remove oil applied to them to prevent corrosion in storage, surely? Maybe this oil will wipe off on first application of the pads but why risk contaminating new pads?
Hi Simón, If you use stock Rotors from BMW they come with a special coating spray. They are not oiled and the spray coating helps prevent rust. If you use aftermarket rotors from say AutoZone they are most likely covered in oil to prevent rust. You would use brake clean on those but not the stock OEM rotors.
No lube ??
Correct, Per BMW you do not lube the sliders. The rubber is made to slide. Just clean the dirt off as I show.
Kinda thinking that I should’ve bought a Honda
Lmao fr