Outstanding Jake. Now the best part::::No stupid background music just your clear, concise instructions.. Simply outstanding, keep these videos coming Jake…❤❤❤
@@fixitwithjake Did the pads sit exactly the same on both rotors? My driver side pad sits towards the outer edge of the rotor while the passenger is near the center. i was told this is normal but I'm skeptical!
@Unknownspartan-WandB I don’t really remember to be honest with you. It was too long ago ago for my memory. I would check the BMW forums and see what people are saying……
Ya, I try to show it all and not rush to assumptions that people know certain skills. It can be hard when people say just remove the bolt and don't show the tool or angle it took to access it!
Followed your directions but decided to reuse the old sensor. After many attempts to reset the warning light I Ended up ordering a new sensor and replacing it; first try to reset the light worked like a charm. Word of advise "Replace the sensor along with the pads and save yourself time and headache."
Dude. Thanks so much. Your video was perfect. Very clear. Change them without any problem, brake light cleared, no emergency brake issues. Thanks a lot.
Great video, will probably change my own break pads this summer. BMW said I probably also should replace my brake discs for a ridiculous high price, so I think I'll wait with that until I have the time to look at them myself how worn they are.
If you’re driving your car hard and need the absolute best stopping power then replace the pads and rotors together. It isn’t that much more work or price if you do it yourself. But, in reality there is a minimum thickness to the rotor before it needs to be replaced. The bmw dealer should have written down on your estimate what your rotors are and what the minimum is. Then you know the technician checked them. They often advise you to replace things WELL before they are close to being worn out. Because that’s how they increase their profits. We’re talking 1-2 years or even 50,000 miles early in my experience. Wait for the breaks sensor to go off before you replace the pads or rotors. That way you know you got the proper life out of the item. And you aren’t throwing $ away or items in the landfill before they have fully served their purpose.
to avoid taking the housing apart and hand rolling it you can use a 9v batery with some wires straight to the plug, you will need switch the wires so it pushes out the piston for a small bit, then switch them again to fully retract the inner part 5:06
It might help to Google what a clean sensor wire looks like. Yours is probably covered in road crime and hard to tell. I’m gonna give you a link to what it looks like you’re pressing on the car to open the clip and you’re pulling the grey connector off. amzn.to/3UfHiqB
This is a reasonably easy job well worth the effort. I have changed mine twice front and rear including discs, and the rear ones are a bit more cumbersome due to the electric parking brake actuators. How I envy those who don’t have to strive with rusting parts!
Good to hear! I agree with ya! Haven’t done the fronts yet on this car and 90k miles. Have you tried spraying down the rusting parts overnight to loosen them? Then clean them off with brake cleaner before starting the job? Might make it easier.
I got an update from a friend that I need to measure the rotors to make sure they are still within specs. If they are not it is advisable to replace the rotors too. Rotors are about 20 more mins and around $100 more. I will be doing that next before I drive the car much more.
Hey never use aftermarket anything on a bmw let alone any European car unless it’s brembo. Akebono is good aftermarket brake pads I had them in my Toyota and never had to replace them. But always use oem
@@Sequel7 thanks for the advice! Like you, I am a big proponent of OEM vs aftermarket unless there are tons of positive reviews. Or if the product isn't highly technical. Cheers mate.
OEM= Original equipment manufacturer. In other words a part that is made by the original manufacture when the car was built. Versus an aftermarket part.
It is funny that you ask that. Because I just had a brake fluid delivered for that project. I really don’t like doing brake fluid changes so I’m putting it off but I really can’t put it off any longer!
Hello Just watched your video, but my question is, did you use any diagnostic equipment to unlock the brakes either when you started or when you finished changing the brake calipers.
Jake thank you for the very detailed explanation! The video quality is great! I have a 2012 f10 and will be doing my first diy on my front break pads, is it pretty much the same process as the rear?
I am happy to hear you liked it. I have never done the front brakes still. From what I hear it is the same. This video looks pretty good and shows the fronts. I'd loved to hear how it goes when you are all done! th-cam.com/video/iVR7-jQrhQw/w-d-xo.html
Depends. If u plan to keep the car for another 50k do both but if you plan to sell and it is within the tolerances then I’d be fine with just pads. Rotors aren’t that much and it’s only 4 more bolts so if you have the time and money it’s not a big to add that in. I’ll review the BMW manual and report back that the engineers say too when I can.
Does this vehicle have caliper slide pins? If so this is a fairly important step and can possibly detect uneven pad wear. Withe most vehicles the slid pins are what the caliper bolts attach to. Since the caliper is already removed only a couple of more minor steps. There is usually a dust boot, use a pick tool to remove the dust boots and some brake hardware kits come with the boots as part of the package. Remove the pin, clean, check for damage and apply a light-moderate coating of brake grease.....(The same grease that is used for the back of the pads), to the slide pin. Spray a coating of Brake cleaner down the slide pin housing and clean out. You will most likely need some Q-tips or low profile pipe cleaners to wipe out the excess and dry out. Reinstall and reattach the dust boot. Again only about another three-five minute job per side but this is can also be used to diagnose uneven brake pad wear. Small effort and peace of mind for ensuring fresh grease and slide pin lubrication. Hope this helps.
I haven’t done the fronts yet but I believe it’s the same caliper design and less work without the parking brake to deal with. Usually the fronts wear faster on cars. I think they were replaced on this car before my wife bought it certified pre owned.
Great video, thank you. Any heads up on how to replace the rotor? I probably need to change that since I did 15 mile on the car after the light came up
I broke my actuator, and i replacing new one using your tutorial... I think i did it correctly, but the "parking brake failure l" didint gone... How to reset it? Rotate clockwise right?
Thank You for detailed explanation:-) amazing.. slowly working on my 2012 BMW 535i F10 .. i saw few videos people replace inside screen for better with apple car etc .. is it worth it $500-600 equipment cost ?
I use the car's wrench that is in the trunk to loosen the lug nuts first or one of these and then the impact wrench.At the end is use a torque wrench to tighten the wheels perfectly to specs. amzn.to/2OhUcVX
I studied up on this topic quite a bit before I performed this procedure. There were lots of people with favorable results. So perhaps Something is out of place when he put it back together? Or the parking brake was not unscrewed all the way. Anyhow I will do some digging in and see if I can come up with a resolution for you. I do know there’s a bunch of cheaper computers that I’ve hit the market to electronically activate the parking brake. These to be very expensive but now they are very reasonably priced.
I just have one additional question. I followed every steps in your video and replaced the brake pad and the brake sensor with the links in your video. Braking works fine. However, on the display, its says parking brake malfunction. The parking brake just won't light up anymore and it worked fine before the replacement of the brake pad and sesnor. I tired the reset method but doesn't work. What should I do? Thank you.
Skip to 5:02 on this video and the guy might explain it better than me. Sounds like the parking brake didn't get put back in place with correct spacing to operate again. th-cam.com/video/TmwywiJSSm4/w-d-xo.html
@@Jhinlucas0909 I could be wrong but I don’t believe so. I don’t think you got the parking brake back in it’s original position. It needs to be reset in that position.
@@fixitwithjake I think what I did wrong was that I gave too much space by getting the parking brake space open to maximum with a piston spreader. I guess I have to make the space smaller for the parking brake.
Usually the problem is that the parking brake connector is not reconnected properly (you should feel/hear a click in the plastic connector). I would try that first. I once broke the connector pins and had to replace them (original spares are available), which was a real tricky job, but worked fine afterwards.
Correct. You want the brake off so you can turn it mechanically. Otherwise you will be fighting a lost cause. I’ve always lubed the rear of the pads. If I didn’t in the video maybe I edited that part out or forgot. I’m sure you’re already aware but it prevents squealing.
@@fixitwithjake So i see in my searchs. A very simple solution. Just scares the hell out of me. Indeed when i bought the car i upgraded my scan tool for just this task. 😄
I almost upgraded my scanner tool as well so I could retract the parking brake electronically and then I watched a bunch of videos of people doing it manually with no problem. And it went super easy and smooth so I skipped on the tool and saved about 100 and something dollars.
You’re welcome. Yeah they sure like to control the process and make it difficult for anyone to service it without the dealership. But with a little bit of TH-cam knowledge, you can certainly do it yourself.
@@Shiftedwithdiego I was just joking. I am not in the business of working on cars day to day. But, I am sure there is a neighbor that is handy near you! Bring them some good food!
@@fixitwithjake so only one quote was 780? Because I assure you bmw do not charge that to replace rear disks! Plain and simple, and if anyone doubts what I’m saying pick up the phone and call and you’ll see it’s not that amount so please do not say bmw charge almost 800$ to change pads! If you say rotors and pads then maybe but you state only pads and I’m telling you that’s not real
Thank you for the tip! I did not notice any issues after swapping the pads. The rotors were in great shape and very smooth still. This car feels like it can stop on a dime.
The old sensor came off with the old brake pad. I never removed the sensor from the pad. The opposite side of the wire unclips very easily with a flat head screw driver. Just prior up the connector and slide it off. Then replace the entire sensor wire with a new one and attach to the new pads. Thanks for watching.
Outstanding Jake. Now the best part::::No stupid background music just your clear, concise instructions.. Simply outstanding, keep these videos coming Jake…❤❤❤
I appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed it. I’ve been working hard to make the voice over extra clear and to the point.
Fantastic.
Thank you for taking the time to put this video together for us Jake. Very knowledgeable and professional.... The Best video out here 👍
Thank you for the kind words! Motivates me to do better.
@@fixitwithjake Did the pads sit exactly the same on both rotors? My driver side pad sits towards the outer edge of the rotor while the passenger is near the center. i was told this is normal but I'm skeptical!
@Unknownspartan-WandB I don’t really remember to be honest with you. It was too long ago ago for my memory. I would check the BMW forums and see what people are saying……
Nice video, the short and perfect instructions.
Just did both rear brakes on my f10, Thank you!
Dude, that is great to hear! 🤘
Hello why you need to touch the brake motor thanks.@@fixitwithjake
Amazing video. I really appreciate that you didn't cut away most of the work as I completely agree that it's nice to see when you're a newbie.
Thanks!
Ya, I try to show it all and not rush to assumptions that people know certain skills. It can be hard when people say just remove the bolt and don't show the tool or angle it took to access it!
Followed your directions but decided to reuse the old sensor. After many attempts to reset the warning light I Ended up ordering a new sensor and replacing it; first try to reset the light worked like a charm. Word of advise "Replace the sensor along with the pads and save yourself time and headache."
Thanks for the tip! Never thought about saving the sensor, I know on my VW is was iffy to try to save it.
not too bright huh
Dude. Thanks so much. Your video was perfect. Very clear. Change them without any problem, brake light cleared, no emergency brake issues. Thanks a lot.
Thanks Hunter! Good to hear.
Great video, will probably change my own break pads this summer. BMW said I probably also should replace my brake discs for a ridiculous high price, so I think I'll wait with that until I have the time to look at them myself how worn they are.
If you’re driving your car hard and need the absolute best stopping power then replace the pads and rotors together. It isn’t that much more work or price if you do it yourself. But, in reality there is a minimum thickness to the rotor before it needs to be replaced. The bmw dealer should have written down on your estimate what your rotors are and what the minimum is. Then you know the technician checked them. They often advise you to replace things WELL before they are close to being worn out. Because that’s how they increase their profits. We’re talking 1-2 years or even 50,000 miles early in my experience. Wait for the breaks sensor to go off before you replace the pads or rotors. That way you know you got the proper life out of the item. And you aren’t throwing $ away or items in the landfill before they have fully served their purpose.
to avoid taking the housing apart and hand rolling it you can use a 9v batery with some wires straight to the plug, you will need switch the wires so it pushes out the piston for a small bit, then switch them again to fully retract the inner part 5:06
This is super smart and thank you for sharing this trick!
Thanks!
Thanks Amer!
This was so helpful!!! I have to do it this weekend and because the weather is nice I figured I’d do it! Thank you! 🙏
How do I remove the sensor at the top? Is there a secret to getting this out?
It might help to Google what a clean sensor wire looks like. Yours is probably covered in road crime and hard to tell. I’m gonna give you a link to what it looks like you’re pressing on the car to open the clip and you’re pulling the grey connector off. amzn.to/3UfHiqB
This is a reasonably easy job well worth the effort. I have changed mine twice front and rear including discs, and the rear ones are a bit more cumbersome due to the electric parking brake actuators. How I envy those who don’t have to strive with rusting parts!
Good to hear! I agree with ya! Haven’t done the fronts yet on this car and 90k miles. Have you tried spraying down the rusting parts overnight to loosen them? Then clean them off with brake cleaner before starting the job? Might make it easier.
Fantastic video!👏 so clear, I was wondering how to change my f10 rear pads and now I know!.. thank you ! Ben 🇬🇧
Thank you Jake for this superb video; well explained and no video jitter! I also like your approach to tech tasks!
I got an update from a friend that I need to measure the rotors to make sure they are still within specs. If they are not it is advisable to replace the rotors too. Rotors are about 20 more mins and around $100 more. I will be doing that next before I drive the car much more.
Hey never use aftermarket anything on a bmw let alone any European car unless it’s brembo. Akebono is good aftermarket brake pads I had them in my Toyota and never had to replace them. But always use oem
@@Sequel7 thanks for the advice! Like you, I am a big proponent of OEM vs aftermarket unless there are tons of positive reviews. Or if the product isn't highly technical. Cheers mate.
@@fixitwithjake what is OEM?
OEM= Original equipment manufacturer. In other words a part that is made by the original manufacture when the car was built. Versus an aftermarket part.
TEXTAR is what BMW uses orginally @@fixitwithjake
Thanks!
You explained everything dude thanks so much
thanks
Bless you bro , saved me 👍👍
I’m here to help! Good work!
Do all 4 brakes have the sensors?
One sensor for the front and one sensor for the back. For a total of two sensors on the car.
Brilliant video. Simple and straight to the point
Thank you.
Nice video. Do you start the job with the parking brake engaged?
Thanks. I did not. But you still have the remove the brake further to get clearance.
Thank you, awesome video, how do I know if I need to change my sensor too?
It may crumble, fall apart and break when you remove it. And it may not.
@@fixitwithjake Thank you boss, Are the pads and sensor in the links you listed, you still recommend them? I’m asking cuz it’s three years ago.
@ia6472 yes. Still recommend those.
Do we need to bleed the brakes?
No. Not for replacing rotors or pads. But yes, you should replace the brake fluid as scheduled in the owners manual. Which is every two years.
Does both sides have to turn clock wise?
Thank you this video helped me do mine as we speak
Thanks. If I explained anything wrong of you have more tips, we'd love to hear them!
Best ! Direct on the point. Subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Is it the same for the front brakes? Great video btw!!
Thanks. Front is similar yet slightly different.
Hi Jake thanks for the video on replacing BMW f10 rear brakes. Do you have a video on replacing brake fluid on the same car.
It is funny that you ask that. Because I just had a brake fluid delivered for that project. I really don’t like doing brake fluid changes so I’m putting it off but I really can’t put it off any longer!
@@fixitwithjake When should we expect to see the brake fluid video? BTW GREAT job on the brake pads!
Hello
Just watched your video, but my question is, did you use any diagnostic equipment to unlock the brakes either when you started or when you finished changing the brake calipers.
Negative. That was the point of this video. You do not need to use a diagnostic computer to do so.
Jake thank you for the very detailed explanation! The video quality is great! I have a 2012 f10 and will be doing my first diy on my front break pads, is it pretty much the same process as the rear?
I am happy to hear you liked it. I have never done the front brakes still. From what I hear it is the same. This video looks pretty good and shows the fronts. I'd loved to hear how it goes when you are all done! th-cam.com/video/iVR7-jQrhQw/w-d-xo.html
I’ve finished the pad replacement! Procrastinated for too long 😅
Do you recommend replacing the rotors as well or only the pads?
Depends. If u plan to keep the car for another 50k do both but if you plan to sell and it is within the tolerances then I’d be fine with just pads. Rotors aren’t that much and it’s only 4 more bolts so if you have the time and money it’s not a big to add that in. I’ll review the BMW manual and report back that the engineers say too when I can.
Does this vehicle have caliper slide pins? If so this is a fairly important step and can possibly detect uneven pad wear.
Withe most vehicles the slid pins are what the caliper bolts attach to. Since the caliper is already removed only a couple of more minor steps. There is usually a dust boot, use a pick tool to remove the dust boots and some brake hardware kits come with the boots as part of the package. Remove the pin, clean, check for damage and apply a light-moderate coating of brake grease.....(The same grease that is used for the back of the pads), to the slide pin. Spray a coating of Brake cleaner down the slide pin housing and clean out. You will most likely need some Q-tips or low profile pipe cleaners to wipe out the excess and dry out.
Reinstall and reattach the dust boot.
Again only about another three-five minute job per side but this is can also be used to diagnose uneven brake pad wear. Small effort and peace of mind for ensuring fresh grease and slide pin lubrication.
Hope this helps.
That would be the same for the front without the electric parking brake part correct?
I haven’t done the fronts yet but I believe it’s the same caliper design and less work without the parking brake to deal with. Usually the fronts wear faster on cars. I think they were replaced on this car before my wife bought it certified pre owned.
Hello is it the same for the front Brakes ???
I haven’t had a chance to work on the front brakes yet. But it should be pretty much the same without the parking brake to deal with.
What Apple Watch case is that? Thing is clean.
It is a spigen rugged armor. I’ve tried a few. This one has held up well and my watch gets banged a lot. Protects it well. amzn.to/3z9ratr
Great video, thank you. Any heads up on how to replace the rotor? I probably need to change that since I did 15 mile on the car after the light came up
I haven’t done one yet on this car! But I’ll def make a video when the time comes! If u learn any tips before then I’d love to hear them!
I broke my actuator, and i replacing new one using your tutorial... I think i did it correctly, but the "parking brake failure l" didint gone... How to reset it? Rotate clockwise right?
Was the price for just one wheel break pad..? Or all 4
2 rear brake pads.
I changed rear discs and parking brake stopped working. Any suggestions
Loved the video, but I also have a 2013 with older model gauge cluster. Is it the same way to reset?
I'm sorry I don't know but I suspect so
So I’m stuck and the piston won’t fully collapse back into the caliper, what do I do now?
Thanks mate finally proper video
The brake lube is for the slider points , not the back of the pads
Yes on the back of the pads as well some the caliper doesn’t rust weld to it
Thank You for detailed explanation:-) amazing.. slowly working on my 2012 BMW 535i F10 .. i saw few videos people replace inside screen for better with apple car etc .. is it worth it $500-600 equipment cost ?
Tanks för the video, helped me get the job done!
Why did you need to adjust the electronic parking brake if you were able to just push the pistons back the traditional way?
it is a gear driven motor attached to that piston and will not budge the traditional way and sticks out. It needs to be moved back.
Where did you get your impact wrench from? Would you please provide a link? I can't even get the lug nuts off my wheels with my cross wrench.
I think this is mine. They make some even better ryobi ones than mine. amzn.to/3qBzcXe
I use the car's wrench that is in the trunk to loosen the lug nuts first or one of these and then the impact wrench.At the end is use a torque wrench to tighten the wheels perfectly to specs. amzn.to/2OhUcVX
Torque wrench amzn.to/3ctexzl
That’s just for he rear brake, correct?
Correct.
Great video for sure❤️ however I followed instructions and i got yellow ebrake light on dash and ebrake is not working😉
I studied up on this topic quite a bit before I performed this procedure. There were lots of people with favorable results. So perhaps Something is out of place when he put it back together? Or the parking brake was not unscrewed all the way. Anyhow I will do some digging in and see if I can come up with a resolution for you. I do know there’s a bunch of cheaper computers that I’ve hit the market to electronically activate the parking brake. These to be very expensive but now they are very reasonably priced.
Excellent film, instruction.👍🏼
Thank you Krystian.
I just have one additional question. I followed every steps in your video and replaced the brake pad and the brake sensor with the links in your video. Braking works fine. However, on the display, its says parking brake malfunction. The parking brake just won't light up anymore and it worked fine before the replacement of the brake pad and sesnor. I tired the reset method but doesn't work. What should I do? Thank you.
Skip to 5:02 on this video and the guy might explain it better than me. Sounds like the parking brake didn't get put back in place with correct spacing to operate again. th-cam.com/video/TmwywiJSSm4/w-d-xo.html
@@fixitwithjake would the issue be caused by too little or too much space for the new break pad? Could the issue caused by a break sensor?
@@Jhinlucas0909 I could be wrong but I don’t believe so. I don’t think you got the parking brake back in it’s original position. It needs to be reset in that position.
@@fixitwithjake I think what I did wrong was that I gave too much space by getting the parking brake space open to maximum with a piston spreader. I guess I have to make the space smaller for the parking brake.
Usually the problem is that the parking brake connector is not reconnected properly (you should feel/hear a click in the plastic connector). I would try that first. I once broke the connector pins and had to replace them (original spares are available), which was a real tricky job, but worked fine afterwards.
Great video! Is the parking brake off when you when you manually retract it? Also, no grease on the ears of the brake pads?
Correct. You want the brake off so you can turn it mechanically. Otherwise you will be fighting a lost cause. I’ve always lubed the rear of the pads. If I didn’t in the video maybe I edited that part out or forgot. I’m sure you’re already aware but it prevents squealing.
@@fixitwithjake Sounds good. Thanks for the reply and posting a quality video..
Thanks a Lot Amigo For Your Helpful Video Tutorial !! God Bless You !! ...
Welcome!
고맙습니다 제일깔끔한 영상입니다
Great video my man
Appreciate it!
Good job very well explained
Thanks Benny. I just removed the headlamp for water inside it. That was a tough one at 8hrs :(
Does this method work the same on a 2011 F10 550xi M sport Pkg?
Sorry, I don't know. I imagine you have fancier brakes with a few differences. But overall, the same idea.
Yes it’s the same process( unless you have big Msport brake calipers) usually the 2-3 piston ones
Great video! Anyone know where I can find torque lbs for all the bolts in this assembly? 2015 BMW 550i xDrive F10 - thank you !
Caliper guide pins - 25.8 ft lb / 35nm
Rotor retaining screw - 12 ft lb / 16,3 nm
Rear carrier retaining bolts - 81 ft lb 110nm
Thank youuuuuu🤩🤩🤩
Welcome! 🤘
Nice vid 👌
Thank you Peter!
Seams the Rear Break disc are Worn out
Awesome such a good video
🙏
Adjusting the EPB manually is asking for trouble...
Do tell!. Bc I did it with no I’ll effects as has many others. It would love to learn what you know….
@@fixitwithjake So i see in my searchs. A very simple solution. Just scares the hell out of me. Indeed when i bought the car i upgraded my scan tool for just this task. 😄
I almost upgraded my scanner tool as well so I could retract the parking brake electronically and then I watched a bunch of videos of people doing it manually with no problem. And it went super easy and smooth so I skipped on the tool and saved about 100 and something dollars.
Boa explicação 👍
Thank you.
great video
Thank you. If learn anything new, let us know!
thankls bro ur pro!
Welcome. Let us know if you find any way to make it easier for the next person!
10/10
Appreciate the feed back!
bmw loves sticking it to you by requiring everything done to be plugged into something, total BS, ty for the video
You’re welcome. Yeah they sure like to control the process and make it difficult for anyone to service it without the dealership. But with a little bit of TH-cam knowledge, you can certainly do it yourself.
😎
How about I give you 100 bucks and you help me put them on 😭
Hah, deal
@@fixitwithjake Lmflaoo you around nyc area?
@@muhammadbaig7717 Unfortunately bay area
@@fixitwithjake what part of Bay Area ? Haha Hit me up I’ll pay you to change mine lol ASAP
@@Shiftedwithdiego I was just joking. I am not in the business of working on cars day to day. But, I am sure there is a neighbor that is handy near you! Bring them some good food!
Bmw do not charge 900 to do that as I’ve called them! Click bait!!!!
What do they charge and what city do you live in? I live in the Bay Area and this was the quote I got from two local
Dealers.
@@fixitwithjake so only one quote was 780? Because I assure you bmw do not charge that to replace rear disks! Plain and simple, and if anyone doubts what I’m saying pick up the phone and call and you’ll see it’s not that amount so please do not say bmw charge almost 800$ to change pads! If you say rotors and pads then maybe but you state only pads and I’m telling you that’s not real
But likely you really don't need rotors, and the dealer won't do it unless they do rotors, so the saving is real.
This is what's called a pad slap. You are very likely to experience brake noise, and poor performance compared to a properly resurfaced or new rotor.
Thank you for the tip! I did not notice any issues after swapping the pads. The rotors were in great shape and very smooth still. This car feels like it can stop on a dime.
Most important part.....removing the sensor harness wire....and doesnt show it...lol... come on man.
The old sensor came off with the old brake pad. I never removed the sensor from the pad. The opposite side of the wire unclips very easily with a flat head screw driver. Just prior up the connector and slide it off. Then replace the entire sensor wire with a new one and attach to the new pads. Thanks for watching.
Ehhh, it just pushes in. I copied how it was plugged in to the old pad.
You should atleast indicate that this is for the rear brake pads in the title. Nobody changes the rear brake pads
🇦🇿👍
Thank you so much! It helps a lot!
So I’m stuck and the piston won’t fully collapse back into the caliper, what do I do now?