I really appreciate the fact that this channel has absolutely no clickbait, no stupid jokes, no cheapest salvage title super car in the states. Plus being BMW only is a plus 👍
@@MarioDallaRiva I think it's just the way they are designed. There are a 100 reasons out there that people put online. It's not worth figuring out which ones are true and which ones are false and it doesn't really matter. Either way the calipers should operate fine for the life of the vehicle. Some people will just sleep better at night knowing that they've done what they always do lol
Dude you just saved me a ton of money! Just did my front brakes on my 2017 4 series and it took me a few hours with running back and forward to AutoZone but all in all I got it done. Dealership quoted me $1200 and doing it myself I spent between $250-$300 total…Huge thanks for the tutorial!
A tip for removing the Allen bolt that stops the disk coming off, get a short length of allen key say 20-30mm long put it in the bolt head and give it a sharp blow or two on the end with a hammer, this shocks the bolt and helps break through rust which may be clogging the threads. It works most of the time. Replace a bolt you have have had difficulty removing and apply copper slip to the thread.
By far the best and most thorough of several BMW brake job videos I've watched. I just replaced the rear pads on our 2017 530I X Drive, 34000 miles. Going to do the front tomorrow. It took me as long to find the right sequence to reset the "Brake Warning" light as it did to replace the pads.... This is the first time I've signed in and subscribed to a You Tube channel, your video made it worth it, Thanks. Signing out from Canyon Lake TX.
Sounds like some hub play when you shook the front wheel checking stability on the jack stand. Side note...I love your videos. You deserve way more viewers than you have currently. Love from sylvania ohio
I just had all four done on my X5 35d. The Akebono pads are the bomb. I agree, they stop differently than the stock pads, but there is no noise, and no dust at all.
Just did this job myself, and used Zimm solid rotors as I have for the past 15 years or so on my 19 year old E46. I prefer good old Textars however. They dust up but I don't care. They stop great. And for a BMW volume car like mine, plenty good enough. It's not a race car. I feel the need to mention however, that BMW instructs to not use any lubricant on those caliper pins. Just run them in dry. Also, smearing paste on the hub faces is generally not recommended either. I've done it in the past myself and experienced no issues, but now I use a thinner anticorrosion agent instead of grease on the hub faces such as Corrosion X. Also, if you don't have a Milwaukee M12 polisher with a Roloc disc go out and buy one. Superb for cleaning corrosion off hub faces and wheel before you put the new parts back in.
Excellent tutorial and good editing! For what it’s worth, I’ve been using ATE COATED ROTORS, ATE CERAMIC PADS and ATE PLASTILUBE ( IDENTICAL TO BMW PLASTILUBE BUT JUST HAS THE ATE BRAND ON TUBE AND MADE BY CONTINENTAL GmbH, who supply same product to BMW) for all the sliding surfaces. Your use of Zimmerman and Akebono are also great quality.
Great video. The last brake job was through a really excellent independent BMW shop, I managed to glaze the brakes in the first week and was about to bring the car back but then I found myself going 120 and almost missing my exit, middle pedal to the floor, made the exit and the brakes have been perfect for 30k. One of those Italian tune up moments. Might do the upcoming brake job myself. 175,00 mile E60 535xi, will drive this car and maintain it until it gets crashed or I pass it to my kids when I’m old and gas cars are rare. Discovered the channel a couple of weeks ago, this is a goldmine of information, nice under spoken and charming format too. Thank you
I love Bosch Quietcast rotors because of the zinc anti-corrosion coating. But it looks like Zimmerman are also coating their rotors the same way now. I love Bosch Quietcast pads too. They're low dust and good all-around.
I can give you a good tip, in most BMWs, you don't have to remove the caliber bracket to change the rotor! The rotor usually slips out sideways out of the bracket, and you can just put the new one in! This makes it much easier since you don't have to take the bracket bolts off and torque them back on :)
Fun brake jobs. I am old school and believe in checking lateral and radial runout on even new rotors. Better to turn them before they are installed if they need it.
Man i been looking for brake pads that dont dust up so bad THANK YOU !!!! Every week my rims are black with dust ,,,, And im going to put these on my X5 3.5i :) Hope you have a great weekend holiday !!!
Hey Musa! Your "filler" videos are better than most creators normal videos (including mine). With the process of changing the rotors and pads, especially with BMW, they (Bentley Manual) almost always recommend a brake fluid replacement at the same time as rotor and pad service (and I do a visual inspection of the rubber brake lines at the same time). All in, great work and thank you again for posting on the F30. #weltspeed #projectweltspeed
Great video! What I am missing are those smears you are using, there are so many options that I have some confusion which to pick. And would be great also to mention torques for screws in the description just for the recap.
Yep. Good choice of the Akebono Euros similar feel after bedding in, and less dust. PBR Deluxe IIRC tend to glaze too much. I would use Textar or the Euros
The first F20 vid I watched on brakes said the guide pins are a T50, every subsequent one said they are allen key :) Now I got replacement Bosch pins and they are T40.
I had to buy that Quinn torque wrench! Watched your last video on Father’s Day and had to get one for myself, good info on the shims, I have always coated mine thinking that it had to be done, Not sure I agree on the anti-seize on the wheel bolts, I will always used it due to engineering standards and metal to metal friction given you a possible lower torque value, we preach that in refining. Still awesome videos!! Looking forward to your next installment
This is great content, thanks for posting! Can you do a tutorial on how to drain and replace HT-12 coolant in the high and low pressure tanks of your B48?
Great video. My only critique would be to lube the outer pad backing as well. You did the inner one (caliper piston contact point), but I also lube the outer caliper bracket where it presses against the pad. Despite the backing on the pad, it will wear through to metal and sequel w/o caliper grease. Akebono recommends this in the included instructions. They also include the grease. Obviously, apply the grease accurately and use it sparingly.
Hmm. I figured the newer cars were the same as my e90. I didn't have to remove the bracket to remove the rotor. I've been using anti seleze on lug nuts/bolts for decades torqued to 90 ftlbs and never had a problem. Good vid tho
it’s actually okay to just use anti-seize on the front of the piston as bmw doesn’t want any grease near the pads! And no grease on the slide pins! i know it’s super weird as any other car you would be bmw specification is the slide pins will actually go in dry!
I loved the lubing and anti-seize portions. One question, I use the Jack stands and BMW Jack pads like you do. Should I worry about the car slipping off the jack stands?
Did this on my E90 bout a year ago, had hell with those stupid anti rattle clips. Noticed you have a 3oz strip of tape weights on the inner inside. Guess tire techs these days will not 180 the tire to get the weight down.
I placed 1st in my area (Dayton, Ohio) and played NBA JAM, Sonic 3 and virtua Racing on the Genesis. Took Virtua racing as a price but couldn't get to the semi finals because my parents couldn't afford to send me to Florida. Man I miss those Blockbuster days 😌
Ditto on my F01 Msport. Just figured this out at 2200 on a Wed and I can’t work on the car again until Sat. :/. I will update when I get my hands on a 9mm..😢
Bro, when are you going to do something with your garage floor? There are so many products on the market that you can use to transform your garage floor and make it look like a top class working garage.
@@VehicularDIY Yes, Epoxying the garage floor is the norm that most people do, like what I did to my garage floor, but I wish I knew about these other products that are on the market as well, which turns out are actually more durable than epoxy. SpreadRock, SpreadStone, RollerRock and Granite Grip. Check out the TH-cam videos on these products. You might want to give these ones try? Oh and I especially wish I knew of this option before I did my garage floor... check out this video too.. th-cam.com/video/jeiSCST9A0E/w-d-xo.html And no, I'm not "promoting" these products, just passing along what I have discovered in order to give you more options and choices.... Also check out DIY Creators channel too, he did a garage floor video as well with a different option than epoxying because he didn't want to grind down his garage floor. Just look for the video title "How I upgraded my garage floor (HUGE Difference).
You were also changing the brake pads but what if I already had the brake pads changed but want to change the rotors myself. How do I not destroy the brake pads. That is what I would like to find out. Background: when I had the pads changed there was no pulsating in the brake pedal so we did not change the rotors.
Good morning. Thank you for the Video. I have a 2006 BMW E90 316i 90,000 km. Well maintained. Front ventilated brake discs are 22.00mm thick from the factory. I want to know what is the minimum thickness of the discs so that I have to change them? Thank you.
Never could understand why European cars use lug bolts instead of nuts. Seems ass backwards to me. I had an old euro car many years ago-can’t remember what model-that used bolts. What a PIA!!!
Great brake video fellow Houstonian. Plan to perform this job on my BMW 535i shortly. I’ve noticed that FCP EURO has recently started selling TRW ceramic brake pads and curious if anyone has tried them and any feedback on them.
Would you consider helping others fix their cars as well. I live in Houston as well and some of the major stuff you do I don’t think I can. Let me know.
Do you tighten your lugs firm, with either a breaker bar, or impact wrench, then lower fully to the ground to torque or just so they're touching the ground, but not a lot of weight on them? I'm reading conflicting info elsewhere. Thanks.
Hi, I love all the details and knowledge you bring to us BMW owners who are just starting to get a taste for tuning and modifying. I'm have a concern as of now, I've got an M340i and I bought an MST Intake for it, but I'm afraid these cone air filters will not filter as well as the stock paper filter in the OEM box and sandblast the turbo/engine in the long run. What do you think? What's your experience on the N54?
You not gonna sand the turbo with aftermarket intake. The OEM box is there for protect the filter from water or any other stuff which cause problem in the engine. Thats why you gain some HP with aftermarket intake because it can breath more air and does have the box for restrict.
I have a 2011 328i Xdrive automatic with 94k miles on it! The car fax shows no history of the transmission fluid/filter being changed….! I been doing research online & found many videos on Transmission Fluid!!!! What do you recommend for transmission fluid…?
hi, quick question, do you have to open brake fluid reservoir cap before using c lamp to press piston into brake? i just did my brake pad change last week. i see there are some fluid leak out due to overfilled brake fluid. thanks!
Thanks for your video. I need your lights for a minute please. My drum brake is atm engaged. I accidentally engaged it with the rotor off. So the car expanded them and then gave me an error 'parking brake failed'. What should I do to release it so I can put the rotor back on? Both fronts are ok and so is the rear right - all have their calipers and rotors installed. Should I try to dismantle the rear left drum brake while expanded? or should I get in the car turn switch on, apply brake and release parking brake by pressing the button down? The car is X6 E71 with drum brake like yours activated with a button. More details on Google "Parking brake failed - I messed up" using double quotes.
Could you make a video how to reset the i drive on the f30. I just got one and I have my phone connected to the bluetooth but it will sometimes glitch while I’m playing a song and it makes an odd noise then continues to play the song.
Big issue is the rotor retaining screw. Mine was really siezed and it required the head drilled out to get the rotor off, then the screw shank was a bitch to get out Be nice if the screw at least was stainless.
I changed on my f30 M sport brakes, all rotors pads and oil but pedal is not that firm as before( before you needed to press 1 cm to brake hard but now you need like half pedal to brake ), the brake is very good but pedal is not firm as before. I changed oil and bleeded for many times to avoid all air in the system. What I can do ?
Whats the highest ethanol mix you've ran on your e90 with helix? I'm on e60 @ 26 psi with the DAW turbos and I'm trying to rule out misfires. It's only on cylinder 2, and I've swapped around coils and it stayed there. I'm waiting on spark plugs to come in. Do you think that's too much demand for the Helix? Stage 2 lpfp as well
I really appreciate the fact that this channel has absolutely no clickbait, no stupid jokes, no cheapest salvage title super car in the states. Plus being BMW only is a plus 👍
Vehicular DIY to a million subs, floating that out to the universe
I'm surprised he doesn't have 100k already his content is so helpful
Just did this job with the exact parts. Can't go wrong, especially ordering from FCP Euro
One call out, BMW guide pins are engineered to be run dry. Always love your DIYs, best BMW content on TH-cam IMO.
Newtis says no grease, but when I replaced my guide pins boots with OE ATE they say to.
I’ve always wondered what BMW’s reasoning is for not lubricating the slide pins, with the appropriate lubricant of course (?)
@@MarioDallaRiva I think it's just the way they are designed. There are a 100 reasons out there that people put online. It's not worth figuring out which ones are true and which ones are false and it doesn't really matter.
Either way the calipers should operate fine for the life of the vehicle. Some people will just sleep better at night knowing that they've done what they always do lol
Dude you just saved me a ton of money! Just did my front brakes on my 2017 4 series and it took me a few hours with running back and forward to AutoZone but all in all I got it done. Dealership quoted me $1200 and doing it myself I spent between $250-$300 total…Huge thanks for the tutorial!
Also, you deserve more subs!!!! You're one of the few bmw DIY content creators that do things the right/thorough way.
A tip for removing the Allen bolt that stops the disk coming off, get a short length of allen key say 20-30mm long put it in the bolt head and give it a sharp blow or two on the end with a hammer, this shocks the bolt and helps break through rust which may be clogging the threads. It works most of the time. Replace a bolt you have have had difficulty removing and apply copper slip to the thread.
By far the best and most thorough of several BMW brake job videos I've watched. I just replaced the rear pads on our 2017 530I X Drive, 34000 miles. Going to do the front tomorrow. It took me as long to find the right sequence to reset the "Brake Warning" light as it did to replace the pads.... This is the first time I've signed in and subscribed to a You Tube channel, your video made it worth it, Thanks. Signing out from Canyon Lake TX.
Hands down you are the only one on TH-cam that knows how to take off a tire. Everyone else jacks up car to take off lmao..🤣😂 good job man
Really??
Sounds like some hub play when you shook the front wheel checking stability on the jack stand. Side note...I love your videos. You deserve way more viewers than you have currently. Love from sylvania ohio
I had already cracked the bolts for the wheel so it was knocking on the hub.
I just had all four done on my X5 35d. The Akebono pads are the bomb. I agree, they stop differently than the stock pads, but there is no noise, and no dust at all.
I bought the akebono pads for me e60 and I did not like them. You had to press heavy on the pedal to get the same result
Just did this job myself, and used Zimm solid rotors as I have for the past 15 years or so on my 19 year old E46. I prefer good old Textars however. They dust up but I don't care. They stop great. And for a BMW volume car like mine, plenty good enough. It's not a race car. I feel the need to mention however, that BMW instructs to not use any lubricant on those caliper pins. Just run them in dry. Also, smearing paste on the hub faces is generally not recommended either. I've done it in the past myself and experienced no issues, but now I use a thinner anticorrosion agent instead of grease on the hub faces such as Corrosion X. Also, if you don't have a Milwaukee M12 polisher with a Roloc disc go out and buy one. Superb for cleaning corrosion off hub faces and wheel before you put the new parts back in.
Expert engineer and professional photographer Thank you very much
I appreciate that you put this video up because I have to do this job soon on mine.
Excellent tutorial and good editing!
For what it’s worth, I’ve been using ATE COATED ROTORS, ATE CERAMIC PADS and ATE PLASTILUBE ( IDENTICAL TO BMW PLASTILUBE BUT JUST HAS THE ATE BRAND ON TUBE AND MADE BY CONTINENTAL GmbH, who supply same product to BMW) for all the sliding surfaces. Your use of Zimmerman and Akebono are also great quality.
Great video. The last brake job was through a really excellent independent BMW shop, I managed to glaze the brakes in the first week and was about to bring the car back but then I found myself going 120 and almost missing my exit, middle pedal to the floor, made the exit and the brakes have been perfect for 30k. One of those Italian tune up moments. Might do the upcoming brake job myself. 175,00 mile E60 535xi, will drive this car and maintain it until it gets crashed or I pass it to my kids when I’m old and gas cars are rare. Discovered the channel a couple of weeks ago, this is a goldmine of information, nice under spoken and charming format too. Thank you
I love Bosch Quietcast rotors because of the zinc anti-corrosion coating. But it looks like Zimmerman are also coating their rotors the same way now. I love Bosch Quietcast pads too. They're low dust and good all-around.
I can give you a good tip, in most BMWs, you don't have to remove the caliber bracket to change the rotor! The rotor usually slips out sideways out of the bracket, and you can just put the new one in! This makes it much easier since you don't have to take the bracket bolts off and torque them back on :)
Many thanks, all parts arrived & gloved hands ready to get dirty.
Doing that very thing today on my E39 M5... you just confirmed and validated my intended process.
Fun brake jobs. I am old school and believe in checking lateral and radial runout on even new rotors. Better to turn them before they are installed if they need it.
Man i been looking for brake pads that dont dust up so bad THANK YOU !!!! Every week my rims are black with dust ,,,, And im going to put these on my X5 3.5i :) Hope you have a great weekend holiday !!!
Great video, you will get another 70k subscribers for sure with this F30
Very useful for when my f30 will need new brakes - will save bunch of $ by not going to shop.
Hey Musa! Your "filler" videos are better than most creators normal videos (including mine). With the process of changing the rotors and pads, especially with BMW, they (Bentley Manual) almost always recommend a brake fluid replacement at the same time as rotor and pad service (and I do a visual inspection of the rubber brake lines at the same time). All in, great work and thank you again for posting on the F30. #weltspeed #projectweltspeed
Hey man, thank you so much! I couldn’t find the right pads for my 335i off your links. But looked it up separately and found it. Thank you brotha!
Thanks for the tutorial but the caliper bolts were torx not Allen style bolts. Heads up in case anyone else is looking at this. This was on a 21 330i
Great video! What I am missing are those smears you are using, there are so many options that I have some confusion which to pick. And would be great also to mention torques for screws in the description just for the recap.
Thanks for the content. I used EBC brakes on my car which are also low dust.
I really like the way you walk through it and are so knowledgeable. I wish I could do the brakes on my car..
Scotty Kilmer always recommends a
akebono brake pads as best of the bunch too
Yep. Good choice of the Akebono Euros similar feel after bedding in, and less dust. PBR Deluxe IIRC tend to glaze too much. I would use Textar or the Euros
Needed this. Really helpful video man
Your my hero. I got the same f30 328i but Melbourne red.
Great stuff. Will be following these methods for my mom’s 320i
The first F20 vid I watched on brakes said the guide pins are a T50, every subsequent one said they are allen key :) Now I got replacement Bosch pins and they are T40.
I had to buy that Quinn torque wrench! Watched your last video on Father’s Day and had to get one for myself, good info on the shims, I have always coated mine thinking that it had to be done, Not sure I agree on the anti-seize on the wheel bolts, I will always used it due to engineering standards and metal to metal friction given you a possible lower torque value, we preach that in refining. Still awesome videos!! Looking forward to your next installment
This is great content, thanks for posting! Can you do a tutorial on how to drain and replace HT-12 coolant in the high and low pressure tanks of your B48?
Many thanks, all four corners in need of disc & pads so fingers crossed.
good information dude
from 🇲🇾 malaysia kuala lumpur Fan's
Great video. My only critique would be to lube the outer pad backing as well. You did the inner one (caliper piston contact point), but I also lube the outer caliper bracket where it presses against the pad. Despite the backing on the pad, it will wear through to metal and sequel w/o caliper grease. Akebono recommends this in the included instructions. They also include the grease. Obviously, apply the grease accurately and use it sparingly.
Can anyone reference to the grease and antiseize he’s using? Just want to make sure I use the right stuff
Hmm. I figured the newer cars were the same as my e90. I didn't have to remove the bracket to remove the rotor. I've been using anti seleze on lug nuts/bolts for decades torqued to 90 ftlbs and never had a problem. Good vid tho
Where did you get the pads from?
Nice brake DIY! keep it up. Have a great holiday. Dutch regards, Nico.
Thank You for the video..do you have a video for rear electronic brake replacement? Keep Up the Great Work 👍💯👍💯👍💯👍💯👍
it’s actually okay to just use anti-seize on the front of the piston as bmw doesn’t want any grease near the pads! And no grease on the slide pins! i know it’s super weird as any other car you would be bmw specification is the slide pins will actually go in dry!
I needed this.
I’ve gained a follower. Thanks mate!
Excellent video. Super helpful.
I loved the lubing and anti-seize portions. One question, I use the Jack stands and BMW Jack pads like you do. Should I worry about the car slipping off the jack stands?
Did this on my E90 bout a year ago, had hell with those stupid anti rattle clips. Noticed you have a 3oz strip of tape weights on the inner inside. Guess tire techs these days will not 180 the tire to get the weight down.
I placed 1st in my area (Dayton, Ohio) and played NBA JAM, Sonic 3 and virtua Racing on the Genesis. Took Virtua racing as a price but couldn't get to the semi finals because my parents couldn't afford to send me to Florida. Man I miss those Blockbuster days 😌
Nice video as always....thx!
Which torque wrench are you using for small values?
Thx!
I literally did my front brakes today on the f01. It uses a 9mm Allen for the caliper pins and finding a key was a mission 😐
Ditto on my F01 Msport. Just figured this out at 2200 on a Wed and I can’t work on the car again until Sat. :/. I will update when I get my hands on a 9mm..😢
I use copper based to lubricate the slidding pads
BimmerN53
Copper grease is not heat resistant and will dry out to a cruddy mess and bind up, please do not use copper grease it will actually cause problems!
@@Law_Abiding_Citizen_ok thank you
BimmerN53
Bro, when are you going to do something with your garage floor? There are so many products on the market that you can use to transform your garage floor and make it look like a top class working garage.
I really have to get on that. I think I'll need to have the floor grinded. I would lean towards an epoxy coating.
@@VehicularDIY Yes, Epoxying the garage floor is the norm that most people do, like what I did to my garage floor, but I wish I knew about these other products that are on the market as well, which turns out are actually more durable than epoxy.
SpreadRock, SpreadStone, RollerRock and Granite Grip. Check out the TH-cam videos on these products. You might want to give these ones try?
Oh and I especially wish I knew of this option before I did my garage floor... check out this video too..
th-cam.com/video/jeiSCST9A0E/w-d-xo.html
And no, I'm not "promoting" these products, just passing along what I have discovered in order to give you more options and choices....
Also check out DIY Creators channel too, he did a garage floor video as well with a different option than epoxying because he didn't want to grind down his garage floor.
Just look for the video title
"How I upgraded my garage floor (HUGE Difference).
Sure wish I could have done this (physically can’t anymore). Just had to pay the dealer almost $1100 to do the front brakes on my F10.
You were also changing the brake pads but what if I already had the brake pads changed but want to change the rotors myself. How do I not destroy the brake pads. That is what I would like to find out.
Background: when I had the pads changed there was no pulsating in the brake pedal so we did not change the rotors.
Good morning. Thank you for the Video. I have a 2006 BMW E90 316i 90,000 km. Well maintained. Front ventilated brake discs are 22.00mm thick from the factory. I want to know what is the minimum thickness of the discs so that I have to change them? Thank you.
where do you get your torque specs from?
Never could understand why European cars use lug bolts instead of nuts. Seems ass backwards to me. I had an old euro car many years ago-can’t remember what model-that used bolts. What a PIA!!!
Love these videos helps me I have the same car
Great brake video fellow Houstonian. Plan to perform this job on my BMW 535i shortly.
I’ve noticed that FCP EURO has recently started selling TRW ceramic brake pads and curious if anyone has tried them and any feedback on them.
Here at least in Europe OEM brake pads for many BMW are Jurid
BimmerN53
Would you consider helping others fix their cars as well. I live in Houston as well and some of the major stuff you do I don’t think I can. Let me know.
Fantastic video! You ROCK!
Besides rotor hub and caliper lubrication, you put lube on some bolts, is that needed? I didn't do that last time I changed my discs and brakes.
Do you tighten your lugs firm, with either a breaker bar, or impact wrench, then lower fully to the ground to torque or just so they're touching the ground, but not a lot of weight on them? I'm reading conflicting info elsewhere. Thanks.
Thank you for making me save about 400 bucks. ❤😂
What is the spray you used after you got everything back together? Kinda sprayed the whole area?
Hi, I love all the details and knowledge you bring to us BMW owners who are just starting to get a taste for tuning and modifying.
I'm have a concern as of now, I've got an M340i and I bought an MST Intake for it, but I'm afraid these cone air filters will not filter as well as the stock paper filter in the OEM box and sandblast the turbo/engine in the long run. What do you think? What's your experience on the N54?
You not gonna sand the turbo with aftermarket intake. The OEM box is there for protect the filter from water or any other stuff which cause problem in the engine. Thats why you gain some HP with aftermarket intake because it can breath more air and does have the box for restrict.
Great video bro 😎👌🏼👌🏼👌🏼
I have a 2011 328i Xdrive automatic with 94k miles on it! The car fax shows no history of the transmission fluid/filter being changed….! I been doing research online & found many videos on Transmission Fluid!!!! What do you recommend for transmission fluid…?
As a definitive guide it has many shortcomings, many can be improved and there are elements that can be used.
Job well done 👍
Damn! you got a good deal on that car!
hi, quick question, do you have to open brake fluid reservoir cap before using c lamp to press piston into brake? i just did my brake pad change last week. i see there are some fluid leak out due to overfilled brake fluid. thanks!
Thanks for your video. I need your lights for a minute please. My drum brake is atm engaged. I accidentally engaged it with the rotor off. So the car expanded them and then gave me an error 'parking brake failed'. What should I do to release it so I can put the rotor back on? Both fronts are ok and so is the rear right - all have their calipers and rotors installed. Should I try to dismantle the rear left drum brake while expanded? or should I get in the car turn switch on, apply brake and release parking brake by pressing the button down? The car is X6 E71 with drum brake like yours activated with a button.
More details on Google "Parking brake failed - I messed up" using double quotes.
You recommend these for my 2015 335i ?
I have a 13 528xi will it be the same method pretty much
Could you make a video how to reset the i drive on the f30. I just got one and I have my phone connected to the bluetooth but it will sometimes glitch while I’m playing a song and it makes an odd noise then continues to play the song.
I'll look into it.
@@VehicularDIY thanks
Great Video !
Nice video!
Just a question, would you not use anti seize where the disc meets the wheel hub or is this a no go?
Big issue is the rotor retaining screw. Mine was really siezed and it required the head drilled out to get the rotor off, then the screw shank was a bitch to get out Be nice if the screw at least was stainless.
Can you put the jack's on the arms buy the wheel instead of the Jack points using a pad?
Awesome job! Thanks for posting..
Did you use the scaner?
thanks for the nice video, very helpful🥰
Appreciate the video bro, thanks.
What type or brand of grease are you using on the guide pins? Thx.
What size lug wrench for the wheel lugs?
Thank you!
Great info! Thanks!!
I changed on my f30 M sport brakes, all rotors pads and oil but pedal is not that firm as before( before you needed to press 1 cm to brake hard but now you need like half pedal to brake ), the brake is very good but pedal is not firm as before. I changed oil and bleeded for many times to avoid all air in the system. What I can do ?
Whats the highest ethanol mix you've ran on your e90 with helix? I'm on e60 @ 26 psi with the DAW turbos and I'm trying to rule out misfires. It's only on cylinder 2, and I've swapped around coils and it stayed there. I'm waiting on spark plugs to come in. Do you think that's too much demand for the Helix? Stage 2 lpfp as well
can you please link the wrenches? thanks!
I really hate those clickbait headlines. The video is solid though.
factory instruction say not to use grease on the guide pins
Thank you very much. Gracias!