How to change front wheel bearings on a BMW F10 (RWD 2010-2016)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- It's always something with a BMW.
Parts used in this video:
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/ Wheel bearing (front, for RWD F10 - 2 req.): amzn.to/3WGWhIe
/ Wheel bearing bolt (8 req.): amzn.to/3PLyjJU
/ Ball joint nut (2 req.): Part #: 31106799668
/ Brake rotor bolt (2 req.): amzn.to/3PRUgai
/ Bottom Left fender liner: amzn.to/3WzOOvj
/ Bottom Right fender liner: amzn.to/3WnM1oS
Materials used in this video:
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/ Torx Plus bit set (includes TP60): amzn.to/3Geh0xR
/ Milwaukee 3/8 ratchet: amzn.to/3GdH3VR
/ 9mm hex socket for brake caliper slider bolts: amzn.to/3GdH3VR
/ 18mm socket for brake caliper bracket bolts: amzn.to/3Wihadi
/ 24mm socket for ball joint nut: amzn.to/3WlH3sv
/ 24mm wrench for ball joint nut: amzn.to/3jfnKT0
/ Triple square bit set (low profile): amzn.to/3YL2rt2
/ Brake parts cleaner: amzn.to/3BW8dxQ
/ Rubber mallet: amzn.to/3Gftx4i
/ Plastic scraper set: amzn.to/3PP4Tuv
/ Red Scotchbrite pads: amzn.to/3Gg6fva
/ Blue industrial paint marker: amzn.to/3dtaaZI
/ WD40: amzn.to/3Wm686A
/ PB Blaster rust penetrant: amzn.to/3e4B7DD
/ Set of cleaning brushes: amzn.to/3FOYY3Y
Replace replacement fix repair 2011 BMW 535i 520i 523i 528i 550i 528xi 550xi 535xi 535d 518d 520d 525d 530d M550d M5 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016
Man you're killing it ! I have the same issue with my 335i F30. Same diagnostic when brake disc removed. Can't wait to have my new wheel bearing and test it.
Great and very methodical work as usual
Peter. Love these kind of short but very informative content
Very detailed and easy to follow. Great job.
Great video, about to change the bearings on my m550d.
One thing made me flinch though - the moment where you used blow torch on your e39. Heating aluminium parts like that completely messes up their mechanical properties. I'd only do that if I was gonna get rid of the part I'm heating.
Excellent procedural!
Great “pre-job” tips.
Great vid. Why does BMW have to use special fasteners for EVERYTHING??!?? Drive's me crazy.
Thanks for sharing. Well done!
Great work! Keep producing great videos. You are a class act!
Good to see a job go by the numbers. I wonder how much run-flats influence the wear. Personally I change them out as a matter of course. Just preference.
Fantastic work thank you for sharing
Thank you man for the video, super helpful!
This is an excellent video. Thank you. Have you considered using a longer handled rachet? You would be surprised how much more torque you can put through it without having to resort to a cheater bar extension.
Thanks for watching! I've found that a simple cheater bar gives me the best of both worlds (at least when working without a lift).
tnx u for show us this fantastic video :) I learn a lot ..
can you elaborate on where you placed the floor jack underneath the car please?
Excellent job 👏 👍 👌 🙌
Great vid. Super simple no BS, just efficient wrenching. I imagine the same is possible for the F87 M2? I don't know if you need to remove the suspension link to get this done but in any case, it seems like a relatively straightforward swap with the right tools.
Would love to know if you did the same with the rears as I'm kinda dreading doing those!
Thanks for the comment. I imagine the M2 would be very similar, however the torque specs are likely different.
I haven't done the rear on this car, but I've done them on an Audi S3 rear. Not exactly the same thing, but outside of removing an axle nut, there wasn't much more to it.
I tried, but the bolts holding the caliper bracket was not possible to loosen up... 😢
Hello, is the procedure the same when replacing the front bearing on a 2011 BMW X3 F25? well thank you
thank you so much...
Sometimes that clicking could be the ABS sensor being activated by the turning bearing
I wondered if that could be causing it. I guess I didn't think there were moving parts related to the ABS sensor/magnet, but the clicking would indicate that something was moving.
Torque sockets
Hi, what kind of symptoms do you feel? Only click or do you have vibrations?
Please help me out, does the wheel bearing go on either side or there is a difference between left and right?
When you say T47 and then put TP47. Which is the correct one?
Sorry about the confusion. You want to use torx plus bits on this car. Those will have the TP prefix.
Hello, what is the tightening torque in Nm? Would it be the same for an f11 xDrive? Thanks and regards
Followed this on my xi m sport f10 535, but for me the front drive shaft goes through the hub with a 17mm hex socket. All my old torq bolts securing the old hub on seem to be seized and the head is stripping when trying to remove. Ugh.
ix
I'm having very similar symptoms, with the front suspension sounding clunky overall. Did you end-up replacing the sway bars at some point too? Or was the noise you were hearing just these wheel bearings? Did you do the rear bearings as well?
I had some pretty loud clunks coming from the front suspension when I first bought the car, but then I shimmed the swaybar bushings to take up the extra slack that had formed. That got rid of most of the noise, but there still is some. I think it's either the struts or strut mounts (or both), because the swaybar links, suspension arm bushings, and ball joints are tight.
Do u own this f10?
Yes
Yet another problem with run flats and low profile.
Yep. These run flats have a lot of tread left (and are only 3 years old) but I'm wondering if switching them to regular tires will actually save me money in the long run.
@Practical Enthusiast I switched to regular tires non run flats once they were worn out at 24k miles. The bmw handles much better. Less expensive also. I have a green goo kit, tire inflator and tire plug kit in the car just in case.
@@PracticalEnthusiasti bought BMW with runflats and i loved it. Changed to normalna because of the price.. But i liked them. Guess it depends on peoples😁
excelent workshop, thank u...
My 2001 Audi with 250k kms never needed a wheel bearing and I've been driving it like I stole it. Not to mention my 18" Mich PS4's were 30% cheaper than my mate's 16" or 17" runflat crap on his equally crap BMW 116i
hi , can you please help me ,
what is the ticking sound come from , bmw f10 when turning front right wheel .
th-cam.com/video/GH3l1cEN7Nc/w-d-xo.html
i almost tried every solution , the mechanic are give up .
That's a good question. It looks like you've had most of the front end suspension parts replaced. It's hard to tell how loud the sound is from the video, but it doesn't seem too loud. Nice video by the way 👍
It sounds to me like a rubber-insulated part that is under tension, and when the wheel is turned all the way, the part shifts slightly in its rubber mount and makes a "tick" sound. The interesting thing is it doesn't make the tick noise when turning back the other way.
You can see the sway bar end link flex some in the video, which makes me think that it is putting some strain on the sway bar. My guess is that the sway bar is shifting slightly in the mounting bushings and that is making the tick sound. Unfortunately the bushings are molded into the sway bar on these cars, so a complete sway bar replacement may be needed. However, you could try lubricating the sway bar bushings to see if the noise changes or goes away.
Have you a video of the rear bearings being done?
So I’ve just done this job on my 6 series f06. I tightened to 60lbs feet as I watched an f30 TH-cam video. Recently hearing humming. Could it be that it’s not torqued enough?
I don't know about the F06, but seeing as how it's bigger than an F10, 60ft/lbs sounds low. Also, it's likely a torque-to-yield bolt like on the F10 so a strict torque value isn't correct anyway.
So as long as it’s tight it doesn’t matter too much? We gave it some force
@@PracticalEnthusiastif i torque them again to a higher amount will that cause problems?