Nice video. I replaced my spigot bearing at around 120,000 miles when I changed the clutch. I didn't realise at the time there was a void at the back of the bearing and I didn't realise either that you can knock through the base of the bearing. I removed the rollers in the centre before working out that I needed to use a bolt as you suggested. I was at it for ages. I rebuilt the engine at around 150,000 miles and replaced the spigot bearing again but it came out in moments using a Machine Mart slide hammer. I'm now finishing off a chassis change at just over 160,000 miles but this time the slide hammer is not working so I will try again with a bolt. Regarding the rear oil seal, I refitted it at 150,000 miles with 2 blobs of sealant as suggested in the Haynes manual but it leaked. This time I will be sealing it all the way round.
Nice vid, mate. I had to replace the spigot bearing in my 2013 Defender once and was an absolute BASTARD to get out!!!! Bearing housing is hardened so you can't drill it. I ended up having to open the back up with a carbide burr, heat the bearing and eventually pull it with an internal bearing puller. Not before the puller totally ripped the inner cage out and destroyed outer lip of the bearing leaving me nowhere to get a hold of it. The grease/bolt trick sadly didn't come close to working. 4 hrs to get the bloody thing out. 2 years down the track and need to do the rear main seal now so will follow your lead with the silicone all around, just to be safe!
Wow sounds like that was a pain! I did the same as you reguarding the drill. Gave up after it didnt do anything and using a hammer and punch just broke off the back. Cant believe how well it worked! I later found out you are only supposed to put sealent on the little squares that seal the sump to the block but it wont hurt to put a little around the outside 👌
Hi Tom. That rear seal.. strange.... you say youve read in a few places it should be fitted with silicone, the manual states silicone should only be added in the square dimples either side and when I stripped my engine there was blue hylomar on it.. from the factory!! Go figure????
Nice video. I replaced my spigot bearing at around 120,000 miles when I changed the clutch. I didn't realise at the time there was a void at the back of the bearing and I didn't realise either that you can knock through the base of the bearing. I removed the rollers in the centre before working out that I needed to use a bolt as you suggested. I was at it for ages.
I rebuilt the engine at around 150,000 miles and replaced the spigot bearing again but it came out in moments using a Machine Mart slide hammer.
I'm now finishing off a chassis change at just over 160,000 miles but this time the slide hammer is not working so I will try again with a bolt.
Regarding the rear oil seal, I refitted it at 150,000 miles with 2 blobs of sealant as suggested in the Haynes manual but it leaked. This time I will be sealing it all the way round.
Very useful, handy to know there's a bit of a void in the crank, the other side of the bearing.
Great tip for removing the spigot Bearing Tom.
Nice vid, mate. I had to replace the spigot bearing in my 2013 Defender once and was an absolute BASTARD to get out!!!! Bearing housing is hardened so you can't drill it. I ended up having to open the back up with a carbide burr, heat the bearing and eventually pull it with an internal bearing puller. Not before the puller totally ripped the inner cage out and destroyed outer lip of the bearing leaving me nowhere to get a hold of it. The grease/bolt trick sadly didn't come close to working. 4 hrs to get the bloody thing out.
2 years down the track and need to do the rear main seal now so will follow your lead with the silicone all around, just to be safe!
Wow sounds like that was a pain! I did the same as you reguarding the drill. Gave up after it didnt do anything and using a hammer and punch just broke off the back. Cant believe how well it worked!
I later found out you are only supposed to put sealent on the little squares that seal the sump to the block but it wont hurt to put a little around the outside 👌
Tom i fucking love you mate, you have just save me a hell of a lot of hassle thankyou!
Nice one! 👍
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Do you remember what size bolt you used? Facing the same problem.
Yes it was a 6mm threaded bolt
Hi Tom. That rear seal.. strange.... you say youve read in a few places it should be fitted with silicone, the manual states silicone should only be added in the square dimples either side and when I stripped my engine there was blue hylomar on it.. from the factory!! Go figure????
Yeah strange one! I noticed a tiny bit on one side but other than that it was dry. Thats why i put a really thin smear all the way around to be sure.