Careful with the Mega. The X belt idler mount is just a ring press-fit into that soft metal of the Z boxes. Mine got bent from running the printer fast, and when I carefully tried to straighten it, it broke off.
Yeah... I would like to remodel and remake the whole gantry with Z axis frame because it is such a wobbly mess, but I can't come up with a video idea that would justify that. :D
@@PrintingPerspective Do a resonance test with klipper and an accelerometer, then compare the steel boxes with PLA, ASA/ABS, etc. See if it improves resonant frequencies on X, since they are the mounting points for the linear rods. I've been curious how printed parts do vs steel and aluminum on resonant frequencies. I don't have a second printer up atm to print the parts, so I'm not inclined to pull mine apart to measure, then have to put it back together and dial it in again to print, then take it apart again to swap the parts. So if you do, share the models please :D This video shocked me with how much movement you were getting in the Ai3M steel frame.
Ho una stampante wanhao d6, vorrei sapere se nel collegare il pad alla stampante viene cancellato il firmware della stampante o semplicemente lui ha la priorità rispetto al firmware caricato sulla stampante?
Hi! Thanks a lot for the video. I just calibrated my rusty i3 thanks to you. One question though, on creality print, i can connect to the sonic pad but it only lets me choose the pre-built klipper printers on the software. How did you get to print using creality print on i3?
I would never buy another Creality product, they always come with faults that never ever get fixed and Creality moves on to their next faulty product and leave the community to repair their shortcomings.
That's fair enough. I never owned a Creality machine, but what you are saying is very similar what happened with the pad. I mean they still constantly updating it so I can't just say they will drop it, but how it is marketed and what you get is very different, even now. It is for anyone rather than for the beginners. And if you think that I will start reviewing Creality printers, don't worry I don't have any desire to do that. :)
Yeah you are right I have sonic pad and having problem with it. On one particular print it always fails with same error what was shown in this video. Yet when I connect rpi4 to the same printer with the same cable it runs no problem had not had any errors yet. So emailed to creality and asked them to help me or take the pad back. They send me a new one. New one can't print that stl as well. Fails every single time. Now I'm going to sell them both and just go with rpis and screens. All I wanted is to run 2 printers It can't do it with one. Lol.
Yeah... That is the thing when you modify your own version of Klipper you can introduce unwanted bugs or configurations that don't work as with stock Klipper. You could also use OrangePi, those are at way more reasonable prices than RaspberryPi.
@@PrintingPerspective Yes I replaced my Raspberry Pi's for Orange Pi Zero 2 boards so I could use the RPi's for other projects, the Orange Pi Zero 2 runs 100Mhz faster than a Pi 3b+, they cost me £21 about $24 and I also ordered some USB expansions for £2 as the board only comes with 1 USB and if I wanted to use them for something else further down the road I have enough USB ports, they all arrived from Ali Express in just 10 days with standard shipping and installation was easy.
Can I have an idea of the hardware mods on the Mega ? On mine, stock + TMC2209, the extruder can't deliver above 200mm/s, and the Y-axis skip with some high speed/accel (300mm/s or 5000mm/s-1). Thanks !
That you included the mega was pretty cool. I dusted off recently. Put in a marlin mod 1.19 and manual bedleveling really should get a probe🤔. Agree on the learning new clipper/32? Bit is not to mutch of a desire.
I would have pushed it even further but hotend's flow rate is the limit with Klipper most of the time. Speeds are not the issue with most printers. The only serious reason you want a probe is if your bed is warped and you can't get consistent layer adhesion. Plus as Mega-S uses linear rods, you level once and forget it. I never had to re-level it because it got out of level on its own. At least for now, Klipper is still far away from being easy for everyone, it is more a tinkerer's firmware.
Hi, DIY PERSPECTIVE I saw in your video, that you run Anycubic i3 mega S very well with the sonic pad.... I wanted to ask you, if you can tell me what motherboard your Anycubic, has and if you could post me your printer.cfg. My anycubic mounts a trigorilla atmega2560 and I can't get it to work. A thousand thanks.
Hello, I'm a beginner, please help, is it possible to create instructions for installing a clipper on a sonic pad of various models, such as kingroon or artillery or mks mini board for Ender priners. Thanks for the interesting review.
Hey, as much as I wish to help everyone, my background is not with software/firmware things to easily suggest settings for every printer. If you can't find info on google, try going to Discord, Reddit, Facebook groups, or forums on that specific brand printer.
You do flash the printer with klipper. Firmware can be compiled via the Sonicpad, for some printers you need to flash it via usb and the sonic pad, depends on the chipset of your printer. I did flash several printers woth it and had no problems after that, the printer cfg for alot of printers is online and you just need to dial in e steps(not just of your extruder) etc.
I don´t feel like looking for software and settings and fumbling around, I rather just wait and buy a printer which already has Kipper running like the bambo.
I would prefer that too. I don't think Bambu machines run Klipper, it is a custom firmware like everything about their printers. That is the most significant downside - you can use only their parts if anything breaks down. At this point in time, their machines and replacement parts are extremely good value, but they have to start making money at some point... But as you said in the other comment, most companies are so incompetent and have no clue what they are doing. So soon we will see a huge wave of printers with horrible Klipper implementations. But I hope I am wrong about this.
@@PrintingPerspective I agree. Bambu is also sharing all your data with the Chinese gov. through that internet connection you are using to sent your prints to the machine, this is the main nogo for me. Well we already see that. Many printers using Klipper are old shitty i3 style frames with zero ridigity. Unfortunately Prusa does the same thing. They somehow improved stability they say however they did that. But still. Voron or the Rat 3D printer things makes the most sense BUT I don´t feel like ordering a 1500 parts kit and assembling it for the next half a year. I really don´t get why no one can just get a relattivly simple Voron already ready to go. Which does not cost like 1500€. I mean I get it, there is no "the Voron" and every Voron is different bla bla. If I want to buy a car I will most likely buy one which is mass produced, therefore cheaper and works right out of the box, I don´t care about customization and all that crap. i also don´t need 800mm/s print speed. Just for the love of god make one which is good enough for like 500 bucks and I am in.
Optimize your machine. It's beneficial to everyone. I want to have that enthusiasm too. Have a nice day. ♬0))) *When I was 35, I was a pro in carbon fiber molding.
Klipper is definitely exciting at least for a 3D printer tinkerer, but doubt it is ready to be the same for everyone yet. And enthusiasm at least in my opinion is all about caring about things that matter to you, wanting to learn, and experiencing new stuff. Have a nice day too!
Can you at least show in more detail how you installed this firmware on a third-party printer? All bloggers whom I wrote about such a request refuse. I don’t understand this is another tablet advertisement or a review of a real person who advises using the device and helps people. Even if this is not a review of the device and advertising, imagine how many people you would help. I guess I'm not the only one who needs a little more detailed review of your experience.
The reason no one goes into firmware compiling details is that it depends on your specific board. I literally had to download pre-compiled firmware from Kingroon for KP3S because I couldn't compile it with the pad. Creality themselves don't even know how to do it because they have absolutely nothing about it in the manual. I don't get what you want from me. Do you want a TLDR of the process? You connect the printer to the pad, check if the USB port is recognized (get hardware serial port ID), compile the firmware with the correct settings, put a USB drive into the pad, save it to the USB, and then put that firmware file to the SD card, turn off 3d printer and unplug USB, then put SD card to the printer, turn on 3D printer and it will flash the firmware. This is probably the most realistic and critical review of what experience you get with the pad if you know nothing about Klipper that at least I saw on TH-cam, how do you even think this is an advertisement? I give credit where credit is due and critique where I think they should do better.
@@PrintingPerspective In any case, thanks. Just imagine how many owners of a particular printer would be happy with at least a step-by-step instruction where you say in detail what and where you corrected for compilation and got a successful result.
I mean you are not wrong, but the reality is that step by step guide for a single 3D printer model makes 99% of the viewers who are interested in 3D printing don't care. I don't dictate what interests people and TH-cam is my job after all.
Careful with the Mega. The X belt idler mount is just a ring press-fit into that soft metal of the Z boxes. Mine got bent from running the printer fast, and when I carefully tried to straighten it, it broke off.
Yeah... I would like to remodel and remake the whole gantry with Z axis frame because it is such a wobbly mess, but I can't come up with a video idea that would justify that. :D
@@PrintingPerspective Do a resonance test with klipper and an accelerometer, then compare the steel boxes with PLA, ASA/ABS, etc. See if it improves resonant frequencies on X, since they are the mounting points for the linear rods. I've been curious how printed parts do vs steel and aluminum on resonant frequencies. I don't have a second printer up atm to print the parts, so I'm not inclined to pull mine apart to measure, then have to put it back together and dial it in again to print, then take it apart again to swap the parts. So if you do, share the models please :D This video shocked me with how much movement you were getting in the Ai3M steel frame.
Great video!
Thanks :)
Hopefully I'll get my Sonic Pad in a few days, to go with my Ender 3 S1.
Ho una stampante wanhao d6, vorrei sapere se nel collegare il pad alla stampante viene cancellato il firmware della stampante o semplicemente lui ha la priorità rispetto al firmware caricato sulla stampante?
Hi! Thanks a lot for the video. I just calibrated my rusty i3 thanks to you. One question though, on creality print, i can connect to the sonic pad but it only lets me choose the pre-built klipper printers on the software. How did you get to print using creality print on i3?
I would never buy another Creality product, they always come with faults that never ever get fixed and Creality moves on to their next faulty product and leave the community to repair their shortcomings.
That's fair enough. I never owned a Creality machine, but what you are saying is very similar what happened with the pad. I mean they still constantly updating it so I can't just say they will drop it, but how it is marketed and what you get is very different, even now. It is for anyone rather than for the beginners. And if you think that I will start reviewing Creality printers, don't worry I don't have any desire to do that. :)
Yeah you are right I have sonic pad and having problem with it. On one particular print it always fails with same error what was shown in this video. Yet when I connect rpi4 to the same printer with the same cable it runs no problem had not had any errors yet. So emailed to creality and asked them to help me or take the pad back. They send me a new one. New one can't print that stl as well. Fails every single time. Now I'm going to sell them both and just go with rpis and screens. All I wanted is to run 2 printers It can't do it with one. Lol.
Yeah... That is the thing when you modify your own version of Klipper you can introduce unwanted bugs or configurations that don't work as with stock Klipper. You could also use OrangePi, those are at way more reasonable prices than RaspberryPi.
@@PrintingPerspective Yes I replaced my Raspberry Pi's for Orange Pi Zero 2 boards so I could use the RPi's for other projects, the Orange Pi Zero 2 runs 100Mhz faster than a Pi 3b+, they cost me £21 about $24 and I also ordered some USB expansions for £2 as the board only comes with 1 USB and if I wanted to use them for something else further down the road I have enough USB ports, they all arrived from Ali Express in just 10 days with standard shipping and installation was easy.
Can I have an idea of the hardware mods on the Mega ? On mine, stock + TMC2209, the extruder can't deliver above 200mm/s, and the Y-axis skip with some high speed/accel (300mm/s or 5000mm/s-1). Thanks !
That you included the mega was pretty cool. I dusted off recently. Put in a marlin mod 1.19 and manual bedleveling really should get a probe🤔. Agree on the learning new clipper/32? Bit is not to mutch of a desire.
I would have pushed it even further but hotend's flow rate is the limit with Klipper most of the time. Speeds are not the issue with most printers. The only serious reason you want a probe is if your bed is warped and you can't get consistent layer adhesion. Plus as Mega-S uses linear rods, you level once and forget it. I never had to re-level it because it got out of level on its own. At least for now, Klipper is still far away from being easy for everyone, it is more a tinkerer's firmware.
Hi, DIY PERSPECTIVE
I saw in your video, that you run Anycubic i3 mega S very well with the sonic pad.... I wanted to ask you, if you can tell me what motherboard your Anycubic, has and if you could post me your printer.cfg. My anycubic mounts a trigorilla atmega2560 and I can't get it to work. A thousand thanks.
Hello, I'm a beginner, please help, is it possible to create instructions for installing a clipper on a sonic pad of various models, such as kingroon or artillery or mks mini board for Ender priners. Thanks for the interesting review.
Hey, as much as I wish to help everyone, my background is not with software/firmware things to easily suggest settings for every printer. If you can't find info on google, try going to Discord, Reddit, Facebook groups, or forums on that specific brand printer.
You do flash the printer with klipper. Firmware can be compiled via the Sonicpad, for some printers you need to flash it via usb and the sonic pad, depends on the chipset of your printer. I did flash several printers woth it and had no problems after that, the printer cfg for alot of printers is online and you just need to dial in e steps(not just of your extruder) etc.
nice for the price
I don´t feel like looking for software and settings and fumbling around, I rather just wait and buy a printer which already has Kipper running like the bambo.
I would prefer that too. I don't think Bambu machines run Klipper, it is a custom firmware like everything about their printers. That is the most significant downside - you can use only their parts if anything breaks down. At this point in time, their machines and replacement parts are extremely good value, but they have to start making money at some point...
But as you said in the other comment, most companies are so incompetent and have no clue what they are doing. So soon we will see a huge wave of printers with horrible Klipper implementations. But I hope I am wrong about this.
@@PrintingPerspective I agree. Bambu is also sharing all your data with the Chinese gov. through that internet connection you are using to sent your prints to the machine, this is the main nogo for me.
Well we already see that. Many printers using Klipper are old shitty i3 style frames with zero ridigity. Unfortunately Prusa does the same thing. They somehow improved stability they say however they did that. But still. Voron or the Rat 3D printer things makes the most sense BUT I don´t feel like ordering a 1500 parts kit and assembling it for the next half a year.
I really don´t get why no one can just get a relattivly simple Voron already ready to go. Which does not cost like 1500€.
I mean I get it, there is no "the Voron" and every Voron is different bla bla. If I want to buy a car I will most likely buy one which is mass produced, therefore cheaper and works right out of the box, I don´t care about customization and all that crap. i also don´t need 800mm/s print speed. Just for the love of god make one which is good enough for like 500 bucks and I am in.
Speedy!
Yeah, klipper makes stuff fly lol
Optimize your machine. It's beneficial to everyone.
I want to have that enthusiasm too. Have a nice day. ♬0)))
*When I was 35, I was a pro in carbon fiber molding.
Klipper is definitely exciting at least for a 3D printer tinkerer, but doubt it is ready to be the same for everyone yet. And enthusiasm at least in my opinion is all about caring about things that matter to you, wanting to learn, and experiencing new stuff. Have a nice day too!
Can you at least show in more detail how you installed this firmware on a third-party printer? All bloggers whom I wrote about such a request refuse. I don’t understand this is another tablet advertisement or a review of a real person who advises using the device and helps people. Even if this is not a review of the device and advertising, imagine how many people you would help. I guess I'm not the only one who needs a little more detailed review of your experience.
The reason no one goes into firmware compiling details is that it depends on your specific board. I literally had to download pre-compiled firmware from Kingroon for KP3S because I couldn't compile it with the pad. Creality themselves don't even know how to do it because they have absolutely nothing about it in the manual. I don't get what you want from me.
Do you want a TLDR of the process? You connect the printer to the pad, check if the USB port is recognized (get hardware serial port ID), compile the firmware with the correct settings, put a USB drive into the pad, save it to the USB, and then put that firmware file to the SD card, turn off 3d printer and unplug USB, then put SD card to the printer, turn on 3D printer and it will flash the firmware.
This is probably the most realistic and critical review of what experience you get with the pad if you know nothing about Klipper that at least I saw on TH-cam, how do you even think this is an advertisement? I give credit where credit is due and critique where I think they should do better.
@@PrintingPerspective In any case, thanks. Just imagine how many owners of a particular printer would be happy with at least a step-by-step instruction where you say in detail what and where you corrected for compilation and got a successful result.
I mean you are not wrong, but the reality is that step by step guide for a single 3D printer model makes 99% of the viewers who are interested in 3D printing don't care. I don't dictate what interests people and TH-cam is my job after all.