Thanks for the comprehensive alignment discussion! When checking the swingarm alignment using a measuring tape, I was able to improve the accuracy by re-installing the shock mounting bolts, and then measuring between the flats of the bolt head. It's even easier if you use a tape with a magnetic tip - it will "stick" to the bolt head flat.
Yeah that definitely helps. I have threaded pins I can use too, but since not everyone has those, I. Thought it best to show with basic tools. There is also a specialty tool for it.
This is great stuff to visit over the winter if your bike is currently riding ok. Totally agree with you on knowing each and every bushing and bearing is in proper condition and every bolt is tight. Amazing how many people just gas up and ride thousands of miles never checking anything😂 thank you for your time helping us elevate❤
Bro highly appreciated. This video helped me so much. You wouldn't even imagine so yeah, keep doing what you're doing. She's awesome. I appreciate people like you on TH-cam. Making our life a little bit easier. Enjoy the rest of your day. I hope you have a blessed one
Great information. I just built that black 04 SG from the frame up that I posted on your Performance Baggers ONLY post and it's aligned but when I put the Street Glide fairing on, it front end wobbles slightly over 80mph (I typically cruise @100mph) I'm gonna strip it back down and redo it. I have Sputhe stabilizers now since I just learned about yours, I will try yours on the next build. More shall be revealed. Thx again for takin the time to explain how to do this properly.
Appreciate it! I'm glad this helps in any way. Those street glides suffer from that head shake due to the fairing design. Unfortunately. Seems to be a very common issue.
This is great information, I just did legends on my 13’ roadking. They didn’t match up and I was wondering if there was a way to make it line up. I’ll definitely be ordering your linkage.
I'm glad you got this info in time! That's a big deal on these bikes. Grab a link and get that bad boy aligned. Then tune the suspension and really enjoy the bike all over again.
Great info and something I need to do. On my 95 FLH I have an adjuster by the front motor mount also. What does that one adjust and how or what to measure to see if that is in alignment?
The FLH/FL models had 2, one upper and one lower. They both play a part in alignment due to the single point mount design in the front. There are some service procedures floating around from Harley on the details. Ill try to get that info and make it available as well.
On the early year touring models with a single motor mount the front lower turn buckle is for alignment of the horizontal alignment between the front and rear wheel there are procedures in manual and on line on how to perform this procedure. This video is explaining how to check the vertical Alignment of the engine,transmission and the rear swing arm as they are interconnected. I use a magnetic torpedo level that has several bubbles. Get bike on jack take tension of rear wheel remove lower shock mount bolts and just loosen upper shock mount bolts. Attach magnetic base to rear rotor in in vertical position providing you perform brake disc run out and determine that rotor is not warped. Adjust upper turn buckle until bubble rests in the center of the sight glass. This tells you that the adjustment of the rear wheel is set to 90 degrees. Using a tape measure is good, and this video stated there are several ways to perform this procedure, I find it easier to use my stated procedure this way you are not trying to locate center hole position with a naked eye. This video provides good insight for the DIYer and the required procedures. Again this is my humble opinion.
@@DevilDog59 Thanks for that additional info! Its always good to have more insight. Our process follows the OEM procedures that were eliminated. While I also like using angle gauges, they can cause some confusion as well, especially if the table or bike isn't perfectly vertical. The length between shock mounts is the vital measurement. Thanks for watching, and again, THANK YOU for the additional info. It's great to see others trying to spread useful information for others to use!
Yes , unfortunately some people have no idea about the bike they are riding. Whenever I buy a bike to keep, I buy the factory manual. They are not expensive and can save you a lot of money. First thing to know about the rear wheel is the brake caliper will lock up because the pads aren't sliding on the tabs.They need some grease, not to much mind you, and about every couple of thousand miles.While you are at it check your alignment. Loosen axel a little, make sure your adjusters are equal, check the tension of your belt, turn the wheel till the belt is at its tightest point on the bottom, use a measuring tape and measure from a point on the swingarm to the centre of the axle, when they are equal, nipp up the axle bolt and the adjusters slowly together, while checking the alignment and the tension of the belt. Turn the wheel a few times and bring it back to the tightest point, making sure it is not over tight. About ten mills up and down. Then you should be able to tighten the axle bolt firmly, not over tight and nipp up the adjusters. Pump the rear brake and turn the wheel, make sure everything is freeing up, tyres have the right pressure and you should be good to go.
SGS faring/bars visually seems to point to the right. I have one dominate eye but bike tends to go left on its own when not holding on to the bars which confirms alignment issue. Will your adjuster and engine alignment correct this or is mine a frontend issue? I like your stabilizer design best and will go with yours. Thanks for the vid
Thanks for reaching out. Sorry for taking so long. We do truly believe our link is the best on the market. From materials, to the finished product, a long with the knowledge and research into the part. I'd highly recommend doing a basic alignment check to see if it's out, which I'd bet it is, first. Grab one of our links and then fix those issues. I'd be willing to be that's the majority of your issues. Don't forget to look for worn parts and align the bike from front to back.
Manufacturers who have played it safe from the war era until now have not innovated with old-fashioned gas tanks and only two-cylinder engines which cause the entire frame to vibrate like a diesel engine, but the manufacturers make big profits.
These are rubber mounted engines. While I agree a 4 cylinder may be smoother and make more power stock, there's nothing like the torque in these v twins. You should ride a newer Harley. You might like it.
Harley is desperately trying to find new buyers besides the boomers that are aging out. * Electric Live Wire * liquid cooled VRod * Off road Pan America
Thanks. I will tried it this things. I changed rear and front tyre. Then i install the wheels. Then i go test drive, when i speed up and i release the handlebar ( no hand driving ) , the bike pull to the left .i measures the size between the the rear shock screw hole. The right side is longer than left side. In which directions should i align the engine ? Left or right side ? Thank you for your help.
If the right side is longer, you need to adjust the engine so the top goes "left". Play with the adjustment until you find which direction works and then get it in line. Also be sure to check for worn items like neck bearings, mounts, isolators, and bushings.
Its unfortunate that many shops or mechanics simply don't have this info. It's either not taught/learned through experience... or they just fail to see how important it is.
You adjust the forks inside the triple tree clamps. You would first check with the axle to see if they are aligned. If not, keep one tight as your "reference" side. Loosen the other until measurements match AND the axle can slide freely between the 2 sides. Then proceed to tighten the loose side and torque to spec. Double check the axle is still free when tightened.
We used to ride down the road on two wheels and an engine bolted to a frame. Then they mounted the engine on rubber. So now you have an engine bouncing around in the frame. So? Who on Earth thought it was a good idea to attach the rear wheel to this rubber mounted motor?
It doesn't exactly bounce around in the frame, but I can absolutely see how that's the thought. Rubber mounted engine aren't anything new and have been around quite a while. Luckily shops like us are always looking for a solution to OEM issues
We are NOT loosening any of those. The mounts are rubber and the idea is to move them inside of the isolators. Loosening will cause things to move where they shouldn't.
We offer a kit for the older FL models that require 2 links. They are special order so you will need to contract us prior to ordering. The top link is adjusted in the same manner. Typically the top link is removed and the lower is adjusted first, insuring the drive line is aligned and square. Then the top link is used to perform the same type of alignment procedures as the newer models.
The manufacturer is using subpar parts for production purposes. They're focusing on selling bikes, not making them perfect. Our link, a check for worn parts, and an alignment will do wonders for handling issues.
It very well could be, which is why we always recommend checking for worn parts and checking your bike over. There are many components that can create or exaggerate an issue. An alignment is a great place to start, and puts you hands on to check all other parts.
Thanks for your input. I hope this information helped. Not everything can be shown, especially when you are filming, talking, working all at once. Have a great day!
![[#2024MAMA] ROSÉ (로제), Bruno Mars - APT. | Mnet 241122 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dgGqD28J6aQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the comprehensive alignment discussion! When checking the swingarm alignment using a measuring tape, I was able to improve the accuracy by re-installing the shock mounting bolts, and then measuring between the flats of the bolt head. It's even easier if you use a tape with a magnetic tip - it will "stick" to the bolt head flat.
Yeah that definitely helps. I have threaded pins I can use too, but since not everyone has those, I. Thought it best to show with basic tools. There is also a specialty tool for it.
Thank you for the feedback as well!
This is great stuff to visit over the winter if your bike is currently riding ok. Totally agree with you on knowing each and every bushing and bearing is in proper condition and every bolt is tight. Amazing how many people just gas up and ride thousands of miles never checking anything😂 thank you for your time helping us elevate❤
Thank you for that! As a rider myself, I feel this is vital to a quality ride. I don't understand how people can go so long and never check anything.
Bro highly appreciated. This video helped me so much. You wouldn't even imagine so yeah, keep doing what you're doing. She's awesome. I appreciate people like you on TH-cam. Making our life a little bit easier. Enjoy the rest of your day. I hope you have a blessed one
Thank you so much! The goal is to help others. Enjoy your day!!!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍👍👍👍
Thank you! Hope to continue to share more.
Great information. I just built that black 04 SG from the frame up that I posted on your Performance Baggers ONLY post and it's aligned but when I put the Street Glide fairing on, it front end wobbles slightly over 80mph (I typically cruise @100mph) I'm gonna strip it back down and redo it. I have Sputhe stabilizers now since I just learned about yours, I will try yours on the next build. More shall be revealed. Thx again for takin the time to explain how to do this properly.
Appreciate it! I'm glad this helps in any way. Those street glides suffer from that head shake due to the fairing design. Unfortunately. Seems to be a very common issue.
Wow what a great video. Thank you.
Thank you. Hope it was helpful!
@@rattyfab I swapped a Shovel in my 83 FXR for a Evo. I had some alignment issues, a lot of issue vanished after this video.
This is great information, I just did legends on my 13’ roadking. They didn’t match up and I was wondering if there was a way to make it line up. I’ll definitely be ordering your linkage.
I'm glad you got this info in time! That's a big deal on these bikes. Grab a link and get that bad boy aligned. Then tune the suspension and really enjoy the bike all over again.
Super informative. Thanks so much.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful.
Great info and something I need to do. On my 95 FLH I have an adjuster by the front motor mount also. What does that one adjust and how or what to measure to see if that is in alignment?
The FLH/FL models had 2, one upper and one lower. They both play a part in alignment due to the single point mount design in the front. There are some service procedures floating around from Harley on the details. Ill try to get that info and make it available as well.
On the early year touring models with a single motor mount the front lower turn buckle is for alignment of the horizontal alignment between the front and rear wheel there are procedures in manual and on line on how to perform this procedure. This video is explaining how to check the vertical Alignment of the engine,transmission and the rear swing arm as they are interconnected. I use a magnetic torpedo level that has several bubbles. Get bike on jack take tension of rear wheel remove lower shock mount bolts and just loosen upper shock mount bolts. Attach magnetic base to rear rotor in in vertical position providing you perform brake disc run out and determine that rotor is not warped. Adjust upper turn buckle until bubble rests in the center of the sight glass. This tells you that the adjustment of the rear wheel is set to 90 degrees. Using a tape measure is good, and this video stated there are several ways to perform this procedure, I find it easier to use my stated procedure this way you are not trying to locate center hole position with a naked eye. This video provides good insight for the DIYer and the required procedures. Again this is my humble opinion.
@@DevilDog59 Thanks for that additional info! Its always good to have more insight. Our process follows the OEM procedures that were eliminated. While I also like using angle gauges, they can cause some confusion as well, especially if the table or bike isn't perfectly vertical. The length between shock mounts is the vital measurement. Thanks for watching, and again, THANK YOU for the additional info. It's great to see others trying to spread useful information for others to use!
Yes , unfortunately some people have no idea about the bike they are riding. Whenever I buy a bike to keep, I buy the factory manual. They are not expensive and can save you a lot of money. First thing to know about the rear wheel is the brake caliper will lock up because the pads aren't sliding on the tabs.They need some grease, not to much mind you, and about every couple of thousand miles.While you are at it check your alignment. Loosen axel a little, make sure your adjusters are equal, check the tension of your belt, turn the wheel till the belt is at its tightest point on the bottom, use a measuring tape and measure from a point on the swingarm to the centre of the axle, when they are equal, nipp up the axle bolt and the adjusters slowly together, while checking the alignment and the tension of the belt. Turn the wheel a few times and bring it back to the tightest point, making sure it is not over tight. About ten mills up and down. Then you should be able to tighten the axle bolt firmly, not over tight and nipp up the adjusters. Pump the rear brake and turn the wheel, make sure everything is freeing up, tyres have the right pressure and you should be good to go.
It's the sad truth. Most people just want to modify them and know nothing of how they function.
Great information! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Thank you for the information 👍🏻
Glad it was helpful!
SGS faring/bars visually seems to point to the right. I have one dominate eye but bike tends to go left on its own when not holding on to the bars which confirms alignment issue. Will your adjuster and engine alignment correct this or is mine a frontend issue? I like your stabilizer design best and will go with yours.
Thanks for the vid
Thanks for reaching out. Sorry for taking so long.
We do truly believe our link is the best on the market. From materials, to the finished product, a long with the knowledge and research into the part.
I'd highly recommend doing a basic alignment check to see if it's out, which I'd bet it is, first. Grab one of our links and then fix those issues. I'd be willing to be that's the majority of your issues. Don't forget to look for worn parts and align the bike from front to back.
Manufacturers who have played it safe from the war era until now have not innovated with old-fashioned gas tanks and only two-cylinder engines which cause the entire frame to vibrate like a diesel engine, but the manufacturers make big profits.
These are rubber mounted engines. While I agree a 4 cylinder may be smoother and make more power stock, there's nothing like the torque in these v twins. You should ride a newer Harley. You might like it.
Harley is desperately trying to find new buyers besides the boomers that are aging out.
* Electric Live Wire
* liquid cooled VRod
* Off road Pan America
Video starts at 3:40
Most of the process starts then, but there is important info throughout the entire video. Thanks!
Good to know, thank you...
You're welcome
Thanks. I will tried it this things. I changed rear and front tyre. Then i install the wheels. Then i go test drive, when i speed up and i release the handlebar ( no hand driving ) , the bike pull to the left .i measures the size between the the rear shock screw hole. The right side is longer than left side. In which directions should i align the engine ? Left or right side ? Thank you for your help.
If the right side is longer, you need to adjust the engine so the top goes "left". Play with the adjustment until you find which direction works and then get it in line. Also be sure to check for worn items like neck bearings, mounts, isolators, and bushings.
@rattyfab thanks for your help. you wrote very informative stuff. I've called 4-5 mechanics who service harleys, but no one has said anything similar.
Its unfortunate that many shops or mechanics simply don't have this info. It's either not taught/learned through experience... or they just fail to see how important it is.
Hi to adjust the front shocks to align the axle what do you adjust please I am not sure 3:50
Thanks peter
You adjust the forks inside the triple tree clamps. You would first check with the axle to see if they are aligned. If not, keep one tight as your "reference" side. Loosen the other until measurements match AND the axle can slide freely between the 2 sides. Then proceed to tighten the loose side and torque to spec. Double check the axle is still free when tightened.
@@rattyfab thank you
I was thinking that but wasn’t 100% sure
@@petercrane2328 happy to help and clarify anything.
We used to ride down the road on two wheels and an engine bolted to a frame. Then they mounted the engine on rubber. So now you have an engine bouncing around in the frame. So? Who on Earth thought it was a good idea to attach the rear wheel to this rubber mounted motor?
It doesn't exactly bounce around in the frame, but I can absolutely see how that's the thought. Rubber mounted engine aren't anything new and have been around quite a while. Luckily shops like us are always looking for a solution to OEM issues
Are you losing up the pivot shaft, isolators and other engine mounts when you do this? Do you have a torque sequence if so? Thanks
We are NOT loosening any of those. The mounts are rubber and the idea is to move them inside of the isolators. Loosening will cause things to move where they shouldn't.
👍...... thanks man...🍻
No problem 👍
What are some of the signs while riding that your bike might need aligned?
You can get wobbles when cornering, or just very poor handling. You can also get speed wobbles or have trouble keeping it straight.
What about an older Road King alignment, 2004
We offer a kit for the older FL models that require 2 links. They are special order so you will need to contract us prior to ordering. The top link is adjusted in the same manner. Typically the top link is removed and the lower is adjusted first, insuring the drive line is aligned and square. Then the top link is used to perform the same type of alignment procedures as the newer models.
A buddy told Me after explaining a handling issue that it is the manufacturing issue . I am thinking that the handle bars are to blame possibly bent .
The manufacturer is using subpar parts for production purposes. They're focusing on selling bikes, not making them perfect. Our link, a check for worn parts, and an alignment will do wonders for handling issues.
Could be 580 different things. Tire air. Rear wheel alignment. Bad beaings. Front weel spacers used wrong. Weight loaded to one side..primary
It very well could be, which is why we always recommend checking for worn parts and checking your bike over. There are many components that can create or exaggerate an issue. An alignment is a great place to start, and puts you hands on to check all other parts.
Damn … I want a Softail …
They're pretty nice, but nothing compares to these big beasts
If you have a Harley start turning at least 200 metres before a turn 😂😂😂😂
A properly setup Harley will turn very similar to a sport bike. OEM, different story ha.
wow how much would hd charge for that? Is that a mileage thing or just if it pops up?
HD won't do it unless it's an older bike and is in the service procedures. The newer bikes have solid links, and no alignment procedures.
So, is this why Harley pulled to the left ( with the woke crap ) ?
joking . . .
Hey it might be! We can fix that. Haha
A lot of talking and not much showing and doing
Thanks for your input. I hope this information helped. Not everything can be shown, especially when you are filming, talking, working all at once. Have a great day!