I just got an old No 5 and was just staring at it having no idea what to do or where to start. After watching this I have a lot more confidence that I can get it back to its former glory and become a working tool again. Really appreciate it.
That was the best plane restoration video i have seen so far. I have a nr4 waiting for this kinda job. Also, i have a number of old wooden molding planes in need of some work. I dont know if you use wooden planes, but if you do, a video similar to this one on wooden plane restoration would be very helpful. Even better, why not have a restoration challenge and have a group of makers release a tool restoration vid at a certain date? Or a contest? I would try to join that!
+Willem Kossen Cheers Willem - now my head will be too big to get into the workshop! I don't have many wooden planes, but two have appeared in earlier fix-up videos - a coffin smoother and rebate plane. Challenge 😏!
Excellent video mitch! I restored my late father's Stanley 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 last year and your tips on reducing slack will be a great little upgrade for them. Great channel!
This is the most practical and realistic tutorial I have seen so far. None of all that fancy grinding gear and what not. Just hand tools and materials otherwise available in the non-pro shop. I just found my No.5 on ebay and can't wait to get it tuned up for its new working life. Thanks for keeping it real for us ordinary woodworkers who are just looking to maintain their tools at their best performance.
Hello Mitch, I finally had a chance to watch this video. I must say that both of the plane restorations are a must watch for someone who is looking to learn the ins and outs of a hand plane and essential skills to remedy common issues. Both very detailed. The number 5 plane restoration fills in the gaps that I didn't think were present in the previous video. For me it was the frog contact points and the truing up the sides. I did enjoy the sound of the rain in the first one, lol. I used the first video to restore my first stanlay no 4 plane and it was of great help.
+Peter Pacholkow Thanks Peter. My hope was that the latest video would cover all the essentials in a lot less time, yet still be easy to understand with sufficient demonstration. The first video has been fairly popular despite its length, but I know many people just wouldn't think of watching something that long! Thanks for all your comments, and I'm glad they have been of use. Happy woodworking, Mitch
Excellent tutorial Mitch. Crap... now I need to redo all my frogs, cap irons, adjustment wheels, and levers. Thanks for all the tips. Very helpful. That freeplay is annoying. Now you've provided a remedy. Thanks. Btw, instead of the vinegar I used phosphoric acid (Krud Kutter) and tanked the plane body and rusty parts for 48 hours. Everything was whistle clean, not a molecule of paint or rust was left. Afterwards I used sandpaper and scotchbrite pads to shine up the parts. As you know, there's nothing better for the soul of a true woodworker than using a handplane. Thanks to you and Paul Sellers my handplanes are my go to tools in my shop. They have saved me a great many hours of sanding and have elevated the quality of my wood working. I am the proud owner of 8 Stanleys (3's, 4's, 5's) and 1 #7 Record. I love them all.
+Hardnox thanks Peter. I've not tried the phosphoric acid, buy sounds like a good tip. Hope you'll enjoy the set up video once I've completed it. Nobody really differs on the theory of tuning a plane, but set up is another matter. I'll expect some flak from those who can't accept that a different way to theirs might not be wrong😉! Hopefully some will experiment and find what works best for them.
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I look forward to your video. Like everything else, people are resistant to any change especially when they think they know something. I am reminded of the old saying: "the blindest people are those that refuse to see". The phosphoric acid works amazingly well. It can be reused many times. I filter it before returning it to the jug.
Really enjoyed watching this Mitch. Lots of very useful tips and tricks. I did see your other earlier videos on this and it helped me to get the best out of my planes. A plane that works properly is such a pleasure to use.Thanks.
I was taught to refurbish and tune a plane by my Father, a longtime cabinetmaker and furniture artist. his method did not vary from yours one whit! Great video.
+Dennis O'Rourke Thanks very much Dennis. I developed my technique through reading, watching, and pure trial and error. My father taught me many other things though, for which I am forever grateful.
Today I'm the proud owner of TWO no. 5 planes. 1 to be a finisher / shooting, the other a scrub as I do a lot of pallet wood recycling. So this video is in the library of 'to be watched again'. Thanks for your work in posting this. Take care & stay safe.
Greetings Mitch...! Excellent video, content and workflow...! It is a pleasure to Watch you working and hear the instructions alongside. There is a great "calme" in it...! I am reminded of a quote from Robert Pirsigs Book: "Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance": "To Repair Japanese Motorcycle Requires Great Peace Of Mind". I will keep this link and see it Again when I attempt to tune my planes.
I've watched this before, it's the best and most complete plane restoration video on the internet by far. You did a great job on these. Excellent work.
By a few km, the best video on plane tuning I've seen. Learned a lot of this from my cabinetmaker grandfather, but you've taken things to a new level. Especially like the often overlooked throat tuning. Best regards and hope any future productions are as well executed.
Cheers Gary. I like to think I manage about a dozen in-depth instructional videos throughout the year, with the rest being shorter, easier to pull together, and hopefully different from other channels. Watch out for my saws and sawing series - advertised on this channel, but published on my Get Into Woodworking channel
Thank you for your informative video. There are several great points in this video that teach the finer details of tuning a plane that others have not addressed as clearly and thoroughly as you have here. I will return to this video many times as I acquire used planes and prepare each of them to become "masters." Many thanks, Mitch. Kat
+Kat Beers-McCormick Thanks Kat, much appreciated. I wasn't sure how many people would have got the plane reference to 'Jack of all trades, master of none' - but you're the first to mention it! Cheers, Mitch
Mitch. I watched this last night while looking at two new Veritas planes at £600 because I am really struggling with second hand planes. Today I spent a couple of hours doing everything you did including opening the mouth for a thicker blade. WOW what a difference. Thank you. You saved me £600😊
Hi Mitch -that shim for the depth-adjustment is a really neat idea - I plan on trying it out on my planes. Some have a lot of play in that area. Thanks for another great video!
30 minutes is about right for tuning up a plane. Well done. My plane is no. 4 Stanley clone labeled as Mastercraft. Made in England. I still use a honing guide because I lack the free handing skills. The plane is still very difficult to adjust to expose the beveled edge. The frog required quite a bit of flattening to make it uniformly flat.
+Buck Rogers Thanks. Do you perhaps have the lever cap screw too tight? Try loosening it a little. Without the blade assembly installed, does the spin wheel move easily on it's threaded rod? If not that, try moving the chip breaker further back from the edge - sometimes the slot is machined too close to the front, limiting the possible depth of cut.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD It spins freely without the blade. Backing off on the screw helps but enough to free up the adjustment effort results in not enough clamping force.
+Buck Rogers One other thing that occurs to me, is the frog far enough forward for the blade to clear the mouth without fouling at all? Might be worth adjusting the frog forwards a little just to rule this out. With regards to the lever cap screw, the depth adjustment mechanism should stop the blade being pushed back in use, so the lever cap only needs sufficient force to prevent the blade moving laterally. When you say 'not enough clamping force', what is happening to make you say that? I'll check back here tomorrow, but for now it's way past my bedtime😉
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Mitch, Thanks for the help. I went and back of the screw a little more while it was latched. It helped some with the effort. Then the effort to turn became higher. It feels like it is being jammed or binding. So, I looked through the side between the blade/chip breaker where the lever passes through the blade. It was hitting the stainless flat spring because it protruded too far. I disassembled and took my Dremel to the tip of the adjuster that was hitting the stainless flat spring. I removed about a millimeter, reassembled the effort became much easier. Not "one finger easy" but much, much better. These Stanley clone planes are quite the "science project." It is quite the challenge. Bill (aka Buck Rogers)
+Buck Rogers Ah, not come across that before - definitely one to remember. You've discovered by now that bench planes really aren't a dark art; there aren't that many moving parts, so when it doesn't do what it should it just takes a little investigation. WELL DONE! Now you can enjoy using it.
Hey Master, you're the one! Now I understand how the jack plane works...as a result, I fixed my chinese machine. it works perfectly well. (the problem was inside chip breaker, totaly open )Thanks from Chile!
All the years I had my plane, most of these tips never occurred to me. This video gets added to my playlist of your *Bench* *Plane* *Quick* *Tips* *Setup* for ready reference.
Great video, especially when it comes to working the sole of the plane. I'll probably go back to some of my planes I've refurbished and give the soles some extra attention. Thanks!
another classic tuning and sharpening video, but a few nice extras in this one - tuning the sides of the casting, and touch-ups on the mouth - thank you
By far, the most comprehensive video I have ever seen on plane tune-ups. I have several Stanley vintage planes and all of them need some of the tune-up tips you listed. Thank you and keep the videos coming..
Thanks, Mitch. Maybe you could mention that when you are flattening the sole you have the blade mounted and retracted, rather than flattening the sole without the blade mounted. Having the blade mounted puts the sole under tension for an accurate assessment. If flattening the sole without those things in place, the sole can twist when under tension, throwing it out of flatness.
Fair point Jim. So long as one uses the same tension every time I guess. I do see the logic, but I haven't evaluated the magnitude of the effect. Certainly on planes like shoulder planes or rebate planes, the scope for movement is significant.
Excellent info, one of the best I've seen, well worth watching 30 min. I had never seen that scraping with a file tip, always have trouble squaring the sides of old planes. And your shim/clip for taking out depth adjuster lash was extremely informative. I have my grandfather's No. 5 (1899 patent date), it's in pretty nice condition but has no frog adjustment, so I have tuned it as a smoother and occasional jointer, really enjoy using it. I've used many of the techniques you illustrated for setting up my No. 4's for scrubbing (8 inch radius works better for me than 3 inch) and smoothing, and an old No. 6 with no frog adjuster as a shooter. Thanks again, really enjoy these in-depth sessions.
Cheers Michael. Although I dislike the metal dust and the time it can take, there is a great payback in performance from a good tune up. Nice to hear your using some old planes too - such a shame that many are left to rot.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I have only one modern plane, a Veritas No. 4, so I use nearly all antique planes. Also have and use a No. 5 1/4 "junior jack" that was checked out to me in high school woodworking and given to me by my shop teacher at the end of my last class, when he retired. I find that on eBay and at old tool swap meets here in California vintage planes are no longer cheap and nice ones are harder to find, so a lot of people must be reaching into the bardo and bringing them back to life. They will all be watching your videos!
+Michael Anderson that old supply and demand story. The tool dealers, advertising to buy old tools, often get the bargains. Car boot (trunk) sales still prove fruitful here. I'm lucky to have most of what I'd like already, some old some new.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I don't know if those exist here, might be fun to find out, not that I need anymore planes...but a good breast drill would be nice...
Hi, Just an observation on selecting the plane to be tuned up, the castings with the ribs were not added as an improvement but to allow Stanley to use relatively "green" castings to speed up production. The down side is that the casting can still move over time in the completed plane. The planes without the ribs are older and the castings were aged and fully stress releived prior to machining and will generally be flat with out the need to lap the sole and have better machining in other areas also. All the best and thanks for the great videos, I always get something from watching them.
Thanks, that's very useful to know. It'd be interesting to know how modern castings are treated, and wether current materials and processes negate the need for such considerations.
Hi Mitch Peacock, My only info on that came from youtube videos by a youtube chanel "Brandmade TV" where they show the production of the Lee valley tools Jack rebate plane and a video from Lie Nielsen tools about the casting of plane bodies. Both companies use ductile cast iron and claim that it is stress relieved. Ductile cast iron is a different animal to the simple grey cast iron used in the older Stanley and Record planes. it is less prone to cracking and is heavier and stronger.How they stress relieve the castings I do not know. I was told by a man who used to be a pattern maker in the 60's and 70's in Sheffield England that all rough cast iron castings were left outside in piles in all sorts of weather for up to two years and were regularly moved along the outside of the building. The castings were tossed into a bucket on a front end loader, jiggled up and down using the hydraulics then dumped out on the ground a few yards over and when they reached the other end of the building they were considered to be seasoned and stress relieved and ready to be machined.
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD The Midwest Foundry made grey iron and semi steel castings. The majority of the castings were shot blasted to relieve stress and blast away the scale. Some castings were annealed in large gas furnaces where they were brought up to critical temperature and held there until all the material had reach a homoginous temperature. The engineer called it soaking. The same furnaces were used to sinter cracked castings. If the castings were dumped too soon into the shakeout they could crack. Several thousand pounds of castings could be annealed and sintered at the same time. Ford Motors left the engine blocks for the V-8's outside for a year in Michigan weather. Rain, snow, heat, and rust. If they passed inspection they were machined.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Not so much Mitch, because I spend much time with watching woodworking videos, fixing and upgrading second hand ww machines, looking for hand tools, finishing materials and other shop stuffs and learning basic skills like sharpening etc. But yes, I made my workbench, at least😊 (sorry for poor english)
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD thank you vm Mitch😀 today I found a piece of padouk lumber (120*25*4 cm) it is difficult to find much padouk in Turkey. Pls can you tell me what should I do with it? What kind of project would the best?
Murat Koten You could make a small table - follow my new build on my Get Into Woodworking channel. Or maybe a tongue drum, or marimba - padouk is used quite a bit in musical instruments. I also used a length to make the beam of my panel gauge - video from Christmas time.
That, Sir, is one hell of a great thorough hand plane tuning video. I wish I had seen this half a decade ago, it is congruent with all my personal experiences, and I learned a few more things. Thanks for sharing this awesome video and knowledge. Thumbs up and subscribed.
Cheers! Nice, I hope you see some improvement in all of them. Your 3 and 4 should probably be tuned as smoothers, assuming you're mainly working on furniture size components. Maybe set up one with a back bevel (last weeks video) if you have any trouble with tearout.
When I did my last one , I also repainted the inside with black metal paint . It looked brand new when finished . I need to make a new back handle grip for one of mine . It's cracked , and one of the plastic types .
Thanks, Mitch. You've answered a bunch of my questions. I've been struggling with a new Kunz no 4 for months now, thinking the issue was the chip breaker (which is inaccurately made). Will have to strip it down and look at everything.
A very thorough tune up video....and a nice tip on reducing the fly wheel travel.If you are now finding yourself at a lose end Mitch.....I have a no.4 and no.5 for sale if your interested? If not they'll be on eBay soon (other auction sites are available).
hey there, i done a decent job on the number 4 1/2 i mentioned to you. It's a gorgeous tool to use. Can't imagine I'll every bother with the electric one again.
I do. Recently bought a pocket hole jig and just ordered a small table saw. Enjoying woodwork more than ever and a few simple items of furniture planned. Keep knocking out those TH-cam clips.
You certainly went above and beyond with these planes. Very nice job. I think if you had two different iron sets you could probably achieve similar results with just one plane body could you not?
+B Batta Cheers. For sure it's a good idea to have interchangeable iron sets. Because I see a benefit to altering the mouth for different tasks, that necessitates adjusting the frog too, and therefore having a couple of planes set up saves some time.
Hi there from Portugal, My No.#5 is a cheap one (Silv**line) but I will try to tuned up as you described here and see what it came out :D Obrigado (Thanks)
Very insightfull video. You have quite alot more knowledge than most plane restoration videos. I love how you shimmed up the spin wheel and the chip breaker. I will also spend alot more time mating the frog to the body using your method. Cheers
Thanks Mitch, That was a great video with lots of helpful information. Just one question: I have an old No.5 that has the disk missing from the lateral adjustment lever. Would it be possible to do a video on replacing this lever?
It's very easy to remove the breaker height adjusting levers in the frog (not the lateral adjuster). The little pin hammers out behind the frog, I had mine out in 2 minutes. Which makes it much easier to flatten the frog.
Brilliant video! I stayed to the end and learned that there are a number of considerations I've missed in assessing my recently purchased second-hand no. 5. I loved the tip about removing play from the adjustment wheel! Again, great job!!!
Thanks. I get something new from just about every plane tuning video. I bought a No. 4 Craftsman from the 1970s about nine months ago and tuned it for scrubbing and it did a great job, but I recently decided I needed a better smoother than my No, 5, so I restored the iron and closed down the mouth and I have to say, even though I need to do more work on the iron, it's my new favorite because that puppy shaves like a pro. However, I never even considered working on the frog. Now I'm going to check it just to make sure it's where it needs to be (and get that iron properly set up...I didn't get it squared off when I took the radius down from a scrub to a smoother so I need to put it on the diamond plate again and grind).
+Tim Holiner Cheers Tim. I've not tried that method, but I'm sure it would work okay. I like this scraping method because most woodworkers will have a file hanging around.
Love your videos... and that your workshop looks out on the garden. My bench sits in front of a window as well. That probably hurts my production but it makes for a happier woodworker. Have you ever seen a plane sole deflected by the tension from the tote or knob screw? Just curious as you checked for flatness without those attached. And a compliment on that full length Stanley #4 rebuild video. That inspired me to purchase and refurbish more than 10 planes since I first viewed it.
Cheers Ray! I must admit I haven't seen that deflection - the soles are reinforced at the junctions and it doesn't take much torque to secure the handles sufficiently. The one thing I always seem to see is wear down the centre, caused by the planing of lots of narrow edges - amazing how abrasive wood can be!
Excellent content, well paced, good editing, awesome. I have just bought a number 5, it’s been cleaned up, will check edges for true, and amend as per you guidance. Thankyou. Of course I’ll need three of them, which will please the Mrs lol.
Glad I came across this excellent vid. I recently purchased a no 5 from eBay to use on my shooting board but the sole is very unflat. Ive tuned a no 4 but that didn't require nearly half as much work so I was about to give up but seeing your clear instructions I'm going to have another go at the 5 and get it flat and fit for work.
Start with really coarse paper and change it regularly until it just touches the low points. Then work up through the grits. It is soul destroying work if you'll pardon the pun.
+JoshL Cheers Josh. I have one that I bought to review, and I was very happy with it, but I haven't done a side by side comparison yet. For sure the adjustable mouth, and the thick blades are a great feature. When I bought mine I couldn't get hold of any optional blades, and so I still haven't used it to it's full potential. Do you have one?
I was thinking about picking up a Veritas or Lee Nielsen low angle jack but never did. I've heard very positive reviews of them as being a very good all around plane.
+JoshL if you can, try one out alongside a Bailey pattern no.5, and a similar size Japanese kana, before you buy. How they work and feel in your hand is a personal thing, and just as important as what others might say about their performance. If you don't have much plane experience, get someone who does to check them out with you.
Thank you, I inherited a baily no4 from my grandad and have recently restored it but it's still not cutting how I would like, not one video I came across talked about flattening the frog, thank you for your in depth video, I'm going to be following your instructions
I've got my number 4 and 5 working great along with a little block plan. I just ordered a number 92 from Amazon (cheaper than 93). Any others you suggest? I think I'm set. Oh yeah, working on great grandad's 45. Thanks for your info.
+Brandon Blaine How about a 71 or a 7, both useful. I have an 8, but I don't have the bulk to use it to it's full potential, and I think I'd be better with a 7 myself.
Thanks Mitch and great piece of advice avoid grinding or reduce casting from a bench plane .I bought a stanley 10 1/2 carriage maker without a blade when I got a original blade I noticed that one of the past owner of that plane removed a lot casting fron the sole and side of the stanley carriage maker plane as a result the blade is more wide than the sole of the plane about 5mm :( .pura vida mitvj great video
When your flattening the frog why not use spray adhesive and stick sandpaper down to the iron and use that. You’d have a cut the sandpaper where the slot on the iron is so that the yoke and lateral adjuster will sit in that slot. Then you’ll get a perfect mating surface to the iron
Another Great Video Mitch .. Thanks again .. I am thinking about the diamond stone ... a bit dear but I think it would be a good investment .. thoughts before I invest?
+L Gorman Many thanks. I think if you follow the advice of light touch and use of lapping fluid, and you set yourself up with a strop or two as well, then you wouldn't be unhappy with a decent diamond whetstone. I'm on the fence myself - I've been very happy with water stones for years, and enjoy the process, but having emersed myself in diamond sharpening just lately, I'm wondering if it is a more convenient and equally effective method.
I have a spare Stanley No 6 that I wanted to clean up given to me by my grand father in law. Would this also make a good scrub plane if modified according to your method as well or would the sole be a bit longer than needed?
+Jameson Elam Hi James. Personally I've never been too overly concerned with sole length - many people would say that a no5 is too long for a smoother - so I would say go ahead. The blade is rather wide, so my idea of knocking off the corners more could be worth while. What have you got to loose, apart from a quarter inch of blade! If you try it, let us know how you get on. Cheers, Mitch
Great video Mitch, I have Stanley Nos 2-8 with a few odd numbers in between and they all need a LITTLE TLC. May I ask what is the name of that blue liquid you used to clean the screws. If it works that well, I may need a gallon. Thanks and PLEASE keep of these great videos.
+Willie Sims thanks Willie. It's called paraffin here in the UK. There are more modern alternatives for degreasing and cleaning engines etc. that should work just as well. Steam cleaning or ultrasonic baths are great too.
I just got an old No 5 and was just staring at it having no idea what to do or where to start. After watching this I have a lot more confidence that I can get it back to its former glory and become a working tool again. Really appreciate it.
+Matthew Henry Cheers Matthew. Good luck with the no5, they are a joy to use when they're properly tuned and setup.
That was the best plane restoration video i have seen so far. I have a nr4 waiting for this kinda job.
Also, i have a number of old wooden molding planes in need of some work. I dont know if you use wooden planes, but if you do, a video similar to this one on wooden plane restoration would be very helpful.
Even better, why not have a restoration challenge and have a group of makers release a tool restoration vid at a certain date? Or a contest? I would try to join that!
+Willem Kossen Cheers Willem - now my head will be too big to get into the workshop!
I don't have many wooden planes, but two have appeared in earlier fix-up videos - a coffin smoother and rebate plane.
Challenge 😏!
Excellent video mitch! I restored my late father's Stanley 4 1/2 and 5 1/2 last year and your tips on reducing slack will be a great little upgrade for them. Great channel!
+randomratz Thanks very much, glad to be of help. Happy woodworking, Mitch
This is the most practical and realistic tutorial I have seen so far. None of all that fancy grinding gear and what not. Just hand tools and materials otherwise available in the non-pro shop. I just found my No.5 on ebay and can't wait to get it tuned up for its new working life. Thanks for keeping it real for us ordinary woodworkers who are just looking to maintain their tools at their best performance.
Thanks and best of luck with your no.5. There's no magic to it, but it sometimes takes patience to get every thing just so.
Hello Mitch, I finally had a chance to watch this video. I must say that both of the plane restorations are a must watch for someone who is looking to learn the ins and outs of a hand plane and essential skills to remedy common issues. Both very detailed. The number 5 plane restoration fills in the gaps that I didn't think were present in the previous video. For me it was the frog contact points and the truing up the sides. I did enjoy the sound of the rain in the first one, lol. I used the first video to restore my first stanlay no 4 plane and it was of great help.
+Peter Pacholkow Thanks Peter. My hope was that the latest video would cover all the essentials in a lot less time, yet still be easy to understand with sufficient demonstration. The first video has been fairly popular despite its length, but I know many people just wouldn't think of watching something that long! Thanks for all your comments, and I'm glad they have been of use. Happy woodworking, Mitch
Wow… best tuning vid I’ve seen yet! …unique and new tips I’ve never seen!
Thanks! Hope it helps
Excellent tutorial Mitch. Crap... now I need to redo all my frogs, cap irons, adjustment wheels, and levers. Thanks for all the tips. Very helpful. That freeplay is annoying. Now you've provided a remedy. Thanks.
Btw, instead of the vinegar I used phosphoric acid (Krud Kutter) and tanked the plane body and rusty parts for 48 hours. Everything was whistle clean, not a molecule of paint or rust was left. Afterwards I used sandpaper and scotchbrite pads to shine up the parts.
As you know, there's nothing better for the soul of a true woodworker than using a handplane. Thanks to you and Paul Sellers my handplanes are my go to tools in my shop. They have saved me a great many hours of sanding and have elevated the quality of my wood working. I am the proud owner of 8 Stanleys (3's, 4's, 5's) and 1 #7 Record. I love them all.
+Hardnox thanks Peter. I've not tried the phosphoric acid, buy sounds like a good tip.
Hope you'll enjoy the set up video once I've completed it. Nobody really differs on the theory of tuning a plane, but set up is another matter. I'll expect some flak from those who can't accept that a different way to theirs might not be wrong😉! Hopefully some will experiment and find what works best for them.
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I look forward to your video. Like everything else, people are resistant to any change especially when they think they know something. I am reminded of the old saying: "the blindest people are those that refuse to see". The phosphoric acid works amazingly well. It can be reused many times. I filter it before returning it to the jug.
This is one of the best plane tuning videos out there. Great job.
+Led Zep 'one of' 😢, only kidding! Thanks, much appreciated. Happy woodworking, Mitch
This has been very helpful as I tune up my old Stanley (Bailey) 5 1/2 and Bailey #7 that I have inherited from my grandfather. Thanks so much.
+Michael Claussen My pleasure Michael. Hope you get great results.
Really enjoyed watching this Mitch. Lots of very useful tips and tricks. I did see your other earlier videos on this and it helped me to get the best out of my planes. A plane that works properly is such a pleasure to use.Thanks.
+Mike Biggs Thanks Mike. I hope to film the follow up video, showing day to day set up, very soon.
Please keep making these videos! Really great stuff.
+Rodrigo Meza Thanks Rodrigo. Happy woodworking, Mitch
I was taught to refurbish and tune a plane by my Father, a longtime cabinetmaker and furniture artist. his method did not vary from yours one whit! Great video.
+Dennis O'Rourke Thanks very much Dennis. I developed my technique through reading, watching, and pure trial and error. My father taught me many other things though, for which I am forever grateful.
Today I'm the proud owner of TWO no. 5 planes. 1 to be a finisher / shooting, the other a scrub as I do a lot of pallet wood recycling. So this video is in the library of 'to be watched again'. Thanks for your work in posting this. Take care & stay safe.
Cheers Doug. Sure you'll find the 5s a great addition
Greetings Mitch...! Excellent video, content and workflow...! It is a pleasure to Watch you working and hear the instructions alongside. There is a great "calme" in it...! I am reminded of a quote from Robert Pirsigs Book: "Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance": "To Repair Japanese Motorcycle Requires Great Peace Of Mind". I will keep this link and see it Again when I attempt to tune my planes.
+Jakob Hovman Thanks Jakob. I'm glad that came across. It's never quite calm while filming, but with the camera off it certainly is.
I've watched this before, it's the best and most complete plane restoration video on the internet by far. You did a great job on these. Excellent work.
Cheers Chris, I really appreciate that
I enjoyed the video. I am currently restoring a Stanley No. 4 made in the late 1890's and a Stanley 78 Rebate plane. The video was very helpful.
Thanks. Great to hear it helped.
By a few km, the best video on plane tuning I've seen. Learned a lot of this from my cabinetmaker grandfather, but you've taken things to a new level. Especially like the often overlooked throat tuning. Best regards and hope any future productions are as well executed.
Cheers Gary. I like to think I manage about a dozen in-depth instructional videos throughout the year, with the rest being shorter, easier to pull together, and hopefully different from other channels. Watch out for my saws and sawing series - advertised on this channel, but published on my Get Into Woodworking channel
Great video Mitch. Thanks for having taken the time to make it.
+Bernhard Rindlisbacher (Bewoleks) Thank you Bernhard. The video process took longer than tuning the planes - I was very lucky with their condition.
Really nice work Mitch, have a No. 5, and will re-tune it. Thank you.
+Sam K Cheers Sam. Come back and share how that goes. Any worries, drop me a line.
Thank you for your informative video. There are several great points in this video that teach the finer details of tuning a plane that others have not addressed as clearly and thoroughly as you have here. I will return to this video many times as I acquire used planes and prepare each of them to become "masters." Many thanks, Mitch.
Kat
+Kat Beers-McCormick Thanks Kat, much appreciated. I wasn't sure how many people would have got the plane reference to 'Jack of all trades, master of none' - but you're the first to mention it! Cheers, Mitch
Mitch. I watched this last night while looking at two new Veritas planes at £600 because I am really struggling with second hand planes. Today I spent a couple of hours doing everything you did including opening the mouth for a thicker blade. WOW what a difference. Thank you. You saved me £600😊
Love to hear that.
Wow, best video I've seen on tuning a plane.
Thanks
Geez - best "how to tune up" tutorial in internet. Many thanks. No more "more or less" just concrete info. Many thanks.
Thanks, pleased you appreciated it
Hi Mitch -that shim for the depth-adjustment is a really neat idea - I plan on trying it out on my planes. Some have a lot of play in that area. Thanks for another great video!
Chip Lane Cheers, I hope it works for you
30 minutes is about right for tuning up a plane. Well done. My plane is no. 4 Stanley clone labeled as Mastercraft. Made in England. I still use a honing guide because I lack the free handing skills. The plane is still very difficult to adjust to expose the beveled edge. The frog required quite a bit of flattening to make it uniformly flat.
+Buck Rogers Thanks. Do you perhaps have the lever cap screw too tight? Try loosening it a little. Without the blade assembly installed, does the spin wheel move easily on it's threaded rod? If not that, try moving the chip breaker further back from the edge - sometimes the slot is machined too close to the front, limiting the possible depth of cut.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD
It spins freely without the blade. Backing off on the screw helps but enough to free up the adjustment effort results in not enough clamping force.
+Buck Rogers One other thing that occurs to me, is the frog far enough forward for the blade to clear the mouth without fouling at all? Might be worth adjusting the frog forwards a little just to rule this out.
With regards to the lever cap screw, the depth adjustment mechanism should stop the blade being pushed back in use, so the lever cap only needs sufficient force to prevent the blade moving laterally. When you say 'not enough clamping force', what is happening to make you say that?
I'll check back here tomorrow, but for now it's way past my bedtime😉
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD
Mitch,
Thanks for the help. I went and back of the screw a little more while it was latched. It helped some with the effort. Then the effort to turn became higher. It feels like it is being jammed or binding. So, I looked through the side between the blade/chip breaker where the lever passes through the blade. It was hitting the stainless flat spring because it protruded too far. I disassembled and took my Dremel to the tip of the adjuster that was hitting the stainless flat spring. I removed about a millimeter, reassembled the effort became much easier. Not "one finger easy" but much, much better. These Stanley clone planes are quite the "science project." It is quite the challenge.
Bill (aka Buck Rogers)
+Buck Rogers Ah, not come across that before - definitely one to remember. You've discovered by now that bench planes really aren't a dark art; there aren't that many moving parts, so when it doesn't do what it should it just takes a little investigation. WELL DONE! Now you can enjoy using it.
Also my favourite plane, great job Mitch. I'm setting up a nº 5 and soon publish a video, I hope I stay half as well these. Thanks for sharing!
+Humus Workshop Thanks.
Hey Master, you're the one!
Now I understand how the jack plane works...as a result, I fixed my chinese machine. it works perfectly well. (the problem was inside chip breaker, totaly open )Thanks from Chile!
Thanks, great to hear that. Happy woodworking Gui.
All the years I had my plane, most of these tips never occurred to me. This video gets added to my playlist of your *Bench* *Plane* *Quick* *Tips* *Setup* for ready reference.
Thank you for sharing these good tips.
+alex maakt Cheers Alex!
Realy appreciate the work and the easy to understand Naration. Just waiting for the free time to put it into practice. Keep up the good work Thank you
Cheers, glad you liked it
I love this video. You explain things very well, and I'll be sure to make good use of what I've learnt here. Thanks a lot, Mitch!
+grendel4711 Many thanks. Come back and report on how you get on, it's good to hear if my instruction worked out. Cheers, Mitch
Great video, especially when it comes to working the sole of the plane. I'll probably go back to some of my planes I've refurbished and give the soles some extra attention. Thanks!
Cheers Michael!
another classic tuning and sharpening video, but a few nice extras in this one - tuning the sides of the casting, and touch-ups on the mouth - thank you
Thanks Sean
Good tips. Thanks for taking the time to make such a good video.
+Mark Thieme Thanks Mark, much appreciated.
By far, the most comprehensive video I have ever seen on plane tune-ups. I have several Stanley vintage planes and all of them need some of the tune-up tips you listed. Thank you and keep the videos coming..
Thanks
Thanks, Mitch. Maybe you could mention that when you are flattening the sole you have the blade mounted and retracted, rather than flattening the sole without the blade mounted. Having the blade mounted puts the sole under tension for an accurate assessment. If flattening the sole without those things in place, the sole can twist when under tension, throwing it out of flatness.
Fair point Jim. So long as one uses the same tension every time I guess. I do see the logic, but I haven't evaluated the magnitude of the effect. Certainly on planes like shoulder planes or rebate planes, the scope for movement is significant.
Thank you for taking the time to show us your method, I learned a lot from you. Please continue your teachings for us .. OORAH!!
My pleasure
That was highly informative. I can't wait to get out to the workshop & tune my own. Thank you
Many thanks
Excellent info, one of the best I've seen, well worth watching 30 min. I had never seen that scraping with a file tip, always have trouble squaring the sides of old planes. And your shim/clip for taking out depth adjuster lash was extremely informative. I have my grandfather's No. 5 (1899 patent date), it's in pretty nice condition but has no frog adjustment, so I have tuned it as a smoother and occasional jointer, really enjoy using it. I've used many of the techniques you illustrated for setting up my No. 4's for scrubbing (8 inch radius works better for me than 3 inch) and smoothing, and an old No. 6 with no frog adjuster as a shooter. Thanks again, really enjoy these in-depth sessions.
Cheers Michael. Although I dislike the metal dust and the time it can take, there is a great payback in performance from a good tune up. Nice to hear your using some old planes too - such a shame that many are left to rot.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I have only one modern plane, a Veritas No. 4, so I use nearly all antique planes. Also have and use a No. 5 1/4 "junior jack" that was checked out to me in high school woodworking and given to me by my shop teacher at the end of my last class, when he retired. I find that on eBay and at old tool swap meets here in California vintage planes are no longer cheap and nice ones are harder to find, so a lot of people must be reaching into the bardo and bringing them back to life. They will all be watching your videos!
+Michael Anderson that old supply and demand story. The tool dealers, advertising to buy old tools, often get the bargains. Car boot (trunk) sales still prove fruitful here. I'm lucky to have most of what I'd like already, some old some new.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I don't know if those exist here, might be fun to find out, not that I need anymore planes...but a good breast drill would be nice...
nice one Mitch.
+James smith Thanks James
Hi, Just an observation on selecting the plane to be tuned up, the castings with the ribs were not added as an improvement but to allow Stanley to use relatively "green" castings to speed up production. The down side is that the casting can still move over time in the completed plane. The planes without the ribs are older and the castings were aged and fully stress releived prior to machining and will generally be flat with out the need to lap the sole and have better machining in other areas also.
All the best and thanks for the great videos, I always get something from watching them.
Thanks, that's very useful to know. It'd be interesting to know how modern castings are treated, and wether current materials and processes negate the need for such considerations.
Hi Mitch Peacock, My only info on that came from youtube videos by a youtube chanel "Brandmade TV" where they show the production of the Lee valley tools Jack rebate plane and a video from Lie Nielsen tools about the casting of plane bodies. Both companies use ductile cast iron and claim that it is stress relieved. Ductile cast iron is a different animal to the simple grey cast iron used in the older Stanley and Record planes. it is less prone to cracking and is heavier and stronger.How they stress relieve the castings I do not know.
I was told by a man who used to be a pattern maker in the 60's and 70's in Sheffield England that all rough cast iron castings were left outside in piles in all sorts of weather for up to two years and were regularly moved along the outside of the building. The castings were tossed into a bucket on a front end loader, jiggled up and down using the hydraulics then dumped out on the ground a few yards over and when they reached the other end of the building they were considered to be seasoned and stress relieved and ready to be machined.
labrat7357 Haha, and just look how much care we all pay to not knocking or dropping them ourselves! Cheers
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD
The Midwest Foundry made grey iron and semi steel castings. The majority of the castings were shot blasted to relieve stress and blast away the scale. Some castings were annealed in large gas furnaces where they were brought up to critical temperature and held there until all the material had reach a homoginous temperature. The engineer called it soaking.
The same furnaces were used to sinter cracked castings. If the castings were dumped too soon into the shakeout they could crack. Several thousand pounds of castings could be annealed and sintered at the same time.
Ford Motors left the engine blocks for the V-8's outside for a year in Michigan weather. Rain, snow, heat, and rust. If they passed inspection they were machined.
@@OldSneelock Shot blasting for stress relief actually works by putting compressive stress into the surface so that tensile cracks cannot develop.
Great video, thanks for your effort, I love watching your videos. Waiting for the next one
+Murat Koten Thanks Murat. Do you get to do much woodwork?
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Not so much Mitch, because I spend much time with watching woodworking videos, fixing and upgrading second hand ww machines, looking for hand tools, finishing materials and other shop stuffs and learning basic skills like sharpening etc. But yes, I made my workbench, at least😊 (sorry for poor english)
+Murat Koten Maybe in the future you'll have more time. And your English is very good!
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD thank you vm Mitch😀 today I found a piece of padouk lumber (120*25*4 cm) it is difficult to find much padouk in Turkey. Pls can you tell me what should I do with it? What kind of project would the best?
Murat Koten You could make a small table - follow my new build on my Get Into Woodworking channel. Or maybe a tongue drum, or marimba - padouk is used quite a bit in musical instruments. I also used a length to make the beam of my panel gauge - video from Christmas time.
Wow. Thanks very much for your thoroughness.
+Mariano Kamp Cheers, Mitch
I just did my #5 the same way . and it works perfect. thanks for the info
My pleasure. Great to have feedback
That, Sir, is one hell of a great thorough hand plane tuning video.
I wish I had seen this half a decade ago, it is congruent with all my personal experiences, and I learned a few more things.
Thanks for sharing this awesome video and knowledge.
Thumbs up and subscribed.
Thanks Steve! Hope you find some other useful stuff here
Great video. I should have watched it before restoring my own no5 😉
Hej tack
Great instruction Thanks Mitch.I have a couple bailey's A 3, 4 and 2 5's
Cheers! Nice, I hope you see some improvement in all of them. Your 3 and 4 should probably be tuned as smoothers, assuming you're mainly working on furniture size components. Maybe set up one with a back bevel (last weeks video) if you have any trouble with tearout.
When I did my last one , I also repainted the inside with black metal paint . It looked brand new when finished . I need to make a new back handle grip for one of mine . It's cracked , and one of the plastic types .
Making a replacement handle is one video I haven't done! However, I do have a 3 which needs either a repair or a replacement. Now there's an idea💡
Thanks, Mitch. You've answered a bunch of my questions. I've been struggling with a new Kunz no 4 for months now, thinking the issue was the chip breaker (which is inaccurately made). Will have to strip it down and look at everything.
Gosh, I thought Kunz was quite a good brand! Hope you get it working well
A very thorough tune up video....and a nice tip on reducing the fly wheel travel.If you are now finding yourself at a lose end Mitch.....I have a no.4 and no.5 for sale if your interested? If not they'll be on eBay soon (other auction sites are available).
haha, I'm in the same predicament as you - too many similar planes, too little room! but thanks for the offer Chris.
hey there, i done a decent job on the number 4 1/2 i mentioned to you. It's a gorgeous tool to use. Can't imagine I'll every bother with the electric one again.
Hi Geoff, thanks for letting me know. sounds like you got the bug!
I do. Recently bought a pocket hole jig and just ordered a small table saw. Enjoying woodwork more than ever and a few simple items of furniture planned. Keep knocking out those TH-cam clips.
+Geoff Johnston Great stuff. I've got plenty of video ideas to keep me going for some time. Cheers, Mitch
I just realized I need to restore my #5 after I just got done with it. Haha gotta love a hobby. Great video
You'll appreciate the effort. Cheers
Roger that sir! Going for round 3 over here with an old Stanley 4 1/2 from the 40s ;-)
Thanks for the great tutorial, Mitch!
Cheers Steve
Super Video, MitchThumps up
+Günter Schöne Thanks Günter, appreciated.
Thanks. Greetings from Colombia
Cheers!
You certainly went above and beyond with these planes. Very nice job. I think if you had two different iron sets you could probably achieve similar results with just one plane body could you not?
+B Batta Cheers. For sure it's a good idea to have interchangeable iron sets. Because I see a benefit to altering the mouth for different tasks, that necessitates adjusting the frog too, and therefore having a couple of planes set up saves some time.
Thank you for showing and demonstrating a few new techniques (for me) to improve my no. 5's. Look forward to your next instruction video's. OORAH!!
Cheers. Hope you get good results with your no. 5
Great tutorial Mitch, thanks for sharing it.
Cheers Bill
Thanx foe the ideas on how to get rid of the slop on the yoke, keep the ideas coming, thanx again !!!!
Cheers. Hope you notice the improvement
Hi there from Portugal,
My No.#5 is a cheap one (Silv**line) but I will try to tuned up as you described here and see what it came out :D
Obrigado (Thanks)
Thanks. You should be able to match this performance, and it would be nice to hear how you get on.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD Thanks for the reply, I will make a video :)
Obrigado(Thanks).
awesome tip at 29 minutes ! :D got to try it
+tomas lainas Thanks Tomas, let us know how you get on with that. Happy woodworking, Mitch
it worked well :D keep those videos coming ! :D
+tomas lainas Great stuff. watch out for the set up video before too long.
Very insightfull video. You have quite alot more knowledge than most plane restoration videos. I love how you shimmed up the spin wheel and the chip breaker. I will also spend alot more time mating the frog to the body using your method. Cheers
Thank you Jannie
Thanks Mitch, That was a great video with lots of helpful information.
Just one question: I have an old No.5 that has the disk missing from the lateral adjustment lever. Would it be possible to do a video on replacing this lever?
+Marisa Aguilera Thanks Marisa. That sounds like a good idea, I'm sure I can arrange that. Happy woodworking, Mitch
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD thanks
It's very easy to remove the breaker height adjusting levers in the frog (not the lateral adjuster). The little pin hammers out behind the frog, I had mine out in 2 minutes. Which makes it much easier to flatten the frog.
Brilliant video! I stayed to the end and learned that there are a number of considerations I've missed in assessing my recently purchased second-hand no. 5. I loved the tip about removing play from the adjustment wheel! Again, great job!!!
Good stuff mitch!
Cheers James!
Nicely done and most enjoyable. Thank you, Sir!
Thanks Bill
Thanks! Huge help, especially the detailed look at the frog. Gives me hope for the old Stanley #10 I just brought home. All the best for the New Year!
Glad it helped! Happy New Year
Well done & very informative, I learned a lot...thx!
Thanks
great video, full of information to absorb and understand. will probably watch it several times.
Thanks, hope it helps you
I've watched a few of your videos and they're really excellent!
Subbed and belled ya.
Thanks!
Thanks. I get something new from just about every plane tuning video. I bought a No. 4 Craftsman from the 1970s about nine months ago and tuned it for scrubbing and it did a great job, but I recently decided I needed a better smoother than my No, 5, so I restored the iron and closed down the mouth and I have to say, even though I need to do more work on the iron, it's my new favorite because that puppy shaves like a pro. However, I never even considered working on the frog. Now I'm going to check it just to make sure it's where it needs to be (and get that iron properly set up...I didn't get it squared off when I took the radius down from a scrub to a smoother so I need to put it on the diamond plate again and grind).
Cheers. I'm just about to film tackling a Stanley No.3 which I picked up in a very poor state.
Thanks, Mitch. Great video, as usual. Have you ever used valve grinding compound to fit the frog to the body? I have seen others use this method.
+Tim Holiner Cheers Tim. I've not tried that method, but I'm sure it would work okay. I like this scraping method because most woodworkers will have a file hanging around.
Love your videos... and that your workshop looks out on the garden. My bench sits in front of a window as well. That probably hurts my production but it makes for a happier woodworker.
Have you ever seen a plane sole deflected by the tension from the tote or knob screw? Just curious as you checked for flatness without those attached.
And a compliment on that full length Stanley #4 rebuild video. That inspired me to purchase and refurbish more than 10 planes since I first viewed it.
Cheers Ray!
I must admit I haven't seen that deflection - the soles are reinforced at the junctions and it doesn't take much torque to secure the handles sufficiently. The one thing I always seem to see is wear down the centre, caused by the planing of lots of narrow edges - amazing how abrasive wood can be!
Excellent content, well paced, good editing, awesome. I have just bought a number 5, it’s been cleaned up, will check edges for true, and amend as per you guidance. Thankyou. Of course I’ll need three of them, which will please the Mrs lol.
Thanks Andrew. I'm just producing a video on making a wooden scrub plane, so maybe you just need one more #5 and some materials ;-)
Glad I came across this excellent vid. I recently purchased a no 5 from eBay to use on my shooting board but the sole is very unflat. Ive tuned a no 4 but that didn't require nearly half as much work so I was about to give up but seeing your clear instructions I'm going to have another go at the 5 and get it flat and fit for work.
Start with really coarse paper and change it regularly until it just touches the low points. Then work up through the grits. It is soul destroying work if you'll pardon the pun.
Great followup video. Thoughts on the low angle Jack planes? they have a few different blades and are very versatile
+JoshL Cheers Josh. I have one that I bought to review, and I was very happy with it, but I haven't done a side by side comparison yet. For sure the adjustable mouth, and the thick blades are a great feature. When I bought mine I couldn't get hold of any optional blades, and so I still haven't used it to it's full potential. Do you have one?
I was thinking about picking up a Veritas or Lee Nielsen low angle jack but never did. I've heard very positive reviews of them as being a very good all around plane.
+JoshL if you can, try one out alongside a Bailey pattern no.5, and a similar size Japanese kana, before you buy. How they work and feel in your hand is a personal thing, and just as important as what others might say about their performance. If you don't have much plane experience, get someone who does to check them out with you.
13:55 or, instead of changing your sandpaper, use water or windex on it to assist. Wet/Dry sandpaper works better when wet in these cases.
Good point. I prefer to avoid water, but as long as its dried off well it should be fine.
Great tips
Thanks Riley!
good tip that steel clip for dealing with slack!
Cheers
great contribution, thanks a bunch . this is for the picky folks
I've used Stanley and Record planes my whole career . I like a 5 and the wider but shorter 4 1/2 .
I have a record 4 1/2 as a dedicated smoother. Lovely plane
@@mitchwoodwork they have a good width and decent weight behind them . I always carry mine . I'm not a huge fan of handheld electric planes .
I have new plane Stanley, not used until now, its amazing 😊
That's great, thanks
Great video, thankyou for sharing your knowledge.
Cheers
Thank you, I inherited a baily no4 from my grandad and have recently restored it but it's still not cutting how I would like, not one video I came across talked about flattening the frog, thank you for your in depth video, I'm going to be following your instructions
Thanks. My inherited planes are my favourites, and I feel they are worth putting the effort into getting them well tuned.
Great video! Thanks for share. Saludos
Thanks Julio
Nice video.
Cheers Jack. Hope my other answer helps
I've got my number 4 and 5 working great along with a little block plan. I just ordered a number 92 from Amazon (cheaper than 93). Any others you suggest? I think I'm set. Oh yeah, working on great grandad's 45. Thanks for your info.
+Brandon Blaine How about a 71 or a 7, both useful. I have an 8, but I don't have the bulk to use it to it's full potential, and I think I'd be better with a 7 myself.
Thanks Mitch and great piece of advice avoid grinding or reduce casting from a bench plane .I bought a stanley 10 1/2 carriage maker without a blade when I got a original blade I noticed that one of the past owner of that plane removed a lot casting fron the sole and side of the stanley carriage maker plane as a result the blade is more wide than the sole of the plane about 5mm :( .pura vida mitvj great video
Thanks. The 10 1/2 iron is a little wider than the plane body. But 5mm is too much. Worth grinding it down a little in my opinion.
@@mitchwoodwork thanks Mitch for your piece of advice .
Thank you very much for this. Can you please share a link for that replacement irom blade?
Cheers. You'll find the iron I used here: www.hocktools.com/
.l.l.l.l.l.
@@mitchwoodwork1:32 1:32
When your flattening the frog why not use spray adhesive and stick sandpaper down to the iron and use that. You’d have a cut the sandpaper where the slot on the iron is so that the yoke and lateral adjuster will sit in that slot. Then you’ll get a perfect mating surface to the iron
That's an interesting idea. Well worth trying out. Cheers
Good complete overhaul of your 2x5 Stanley’s! Have you ever thought about draw filing the sole of the planes?
I've tried scraping the sole, after seeing someone else do this, but to be honest I've always found abrasives to be fast and effective.
Superb video, I think I’ll have to watch the rest of your videos and subscribe to see what new videos you will come out with 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great vid Mitch .I particularly like the tip for removing backlash thanks.
Cheers! Yes, backlash does seem to be unpopular 😉
Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD l
Good work thanks for wooden the demonstration
No problem 👍
Another Great Video Mitch .. Thanks again ..
I am thinking about the diamond stone ... a bit dear but I think it would be a good investment .. thoughts before I invest?
+L Gorman Many thanks. I think if you follow the advice of light touch and use of lapping fluid, and you set yourself up with a strop or two as well, then you wouldn't be unhappy with a decent diamond whetstone. I'm on the fence myself - I've been very happy with water stones for years, and enjoy the process, but having emersed myself in diamond sharpening just lately, I'm wondering if it is a more convenient and equally effective method.
I have a spare Stanley No 6 that I wanted to clean up given to me by my grand father in law. Would this also make a good scrub plane if modified according to your method as well or would the sole be a bit longer than needed?
+Jameson Elam Hi James. Personally I've never been too overly concerned with sole length - many people would say that a no5 is too long for a smoother - so I would say go ahead. The blade is rather wide, so my idea of knocking off the corners more could be worth while. What have you got to loose, apart from a quarter inch of blade! If you try it, let us know how you get on. Cheers, Mitch
Great video Mitch, I have Stanley Nos 2-8 with a few odd numbers in between and they all need a LITTLE TLC. May I ask what is the name of that blue liquid you used to clean the screws. If it works that well, I may need a gallon. Thanks and PLEASE keep of these great videos.
+Willie Sims thanks Willie. It's called paraffin here in the UK. There are more modern alternatives for degreasing and cleaning engines etc. that should work just as well. Steam cleaning or ultrasonic baths are great too.
+Mitch Peacock - WOmadeOD I believe it is called kerosene in the U.S. and Australia. It's clear here, must have dye in it in the UK.
+Michael Anderson Thanks Michael. We do seem to like adding colour to our chemicals over here!
Thank you.
Cheers Robert, I hope it brings you plane success
many thanks for this video