The Fillister Plane | Paul Sellers
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video Paul gives you a detailed look at the fillister plane’s mechanics and efficiency when rebating.
Paul has been using the fillister plane for over 50 years because of its versatility, compactness and reliable neatness. The fillister plane is simply a rebate or rabbet plane and can be called such in the day-to-day of benchwork.
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Thank you Paul for the explanation of the filleter plane. I have a Sears Craftsman model and have used it only a few times when not using a router for my rebates because I was usually frustrated with how it functioned. Now you have shown me the proper way to set it up. As I move more towards hand tools in my work this plane will be getting more use.
I bought one of these at a flea market all the parts were there and after sharpening and a setup I love it as Paul says not essential but it does what it’s intended for beautifully
They are essential if you use them to cut rebates or to cut tenons.
Had one for years and figured out most of it, but of course learned some finer points here. I thought the scribe cutter had the blank side simply for storage; I didn't realize you only used the scribe for cross-grain planing. Also, I didn't realize you're supposed to start on the forward part of the rebate. Thanks for sharing.
Friday and a Paul Sellers Video! Perfect!
I got one in great shape just few weeks ago! This video could not have been uploaded at a better time, thank you Paul.
I have that plane. It’s a gift from my neighbor. I didn’t know how to cut in end grain. Thank you for the video.
The first plane I bought at a second hand shop which started my interest in handtool woodworking :).
I just picked one up from a fella that was closing up his shop. I wasn't really sure what it was all about, but it was the only wood working tool he had in his Automotive shop. So I had to grab it. Glad I did and thanks to Paul I now know how to use it!
How do u feel about using & adjusting it , I maybe have one soon love to know ??
That is a superb rabbet plane, I have one just like it, a Stanley too. I've used it to make tongues for tongue and groove board joints. The plane does make the job so easy.
I bought 2 of these planes off E bay @ 5 months ago. One was in rather poor shape, so I refinished it. Took a while, but well worth it. The other one didn't need repairs and it came with an extra blade. I think it was a pretty sweet deal.
Having purchased one last year, I cannot imagine not having one in my arsenal now.
It may be a little odd one out, but it would be awesome to have a detailed video about the Stanley 13-050 Combination Plane. Especially the beading fence is confusing.
What a fascinating tool! I like watching that one at work, along with a ploughing plane. Soooo satisfying haha!
Would love to see a demo on using the blade in the front slot (bull-nose?) cheers
This.
Great idea and well worth getting to know. In essence, the cutting iron is set as you would for the rear setting, but lacks the adjustment arm. This leaves the need to set the cutting iron to approximately the required depth, refining lightly tapping the heel of the iron if advancing it and by lightly tapping the heel of the plane - using a small leather faced/rubber headed mallet - to reduce the cut.
NEVER strike the nose of the plane, as - although made from ductile cast iron - it will either distort the nose or snap it off.
Little confused here , so the blade should be flush with the plane when I take a shave or not being out a little bit from the plane ?? help pls 🙄
@@athmostafa2462 advance the edge of the iron until it removes the desired shaving
@@gazpal NO , no I meant the edge side of the blade 🤔 not the front ?
I just got a vintage Record version that still has the box and brochure. Excited to use it.
Much quicker, and quieter, than all the trouble of setting up a noisy machine.
I’ve been at it 55 years. Can I still learn from your videos? I certainly do. I’ve just got out my Stanley 78 and sharpened the nicker with a diamond slip stone. I can now use it across the grain for the first time in years. One less job for the Bosch router! I had to adjust the side protrusion to match the nicker cut. I also discovered I had a rusty spare without fences with the blade in the forward position. Almost bullnose but not quite. I must have bought it at a junk shop years ago. I’m not sure when that would have a use. Maybe for a stopped rebate
Here’s an idea: th-cam.com/video/tCcDXUShX9A/w-d-xo.html
Just picked one up for £5. Awesome, and once sharpened it works like a dream.
Every time Paul demonstrates a tool theres a rush on Ebay 😁
And the price goes up and up lol. I always miss out on old router's probability thanks to Paul 🤔😁
I know, he's like the Delia Smith of woodworking.
Mine has been on the shelf for years because I didn't know how to use it. I'll be getting it out today to play. Thanks Paul.
So true.
Great information, thank you. Hope sometime in the near future you cover how to use the plane withe the iron in the forward position.
I just took mine apart and found a ton of extremely stubborn old shmoo in the recesses for the spur cutter. I’d imagine I’m not the only one, so here’s the tip: I managed to scrape it out with stainless steel dentist utensils. Available on Amazon, and very handy for all kinds of small jobs.
Love mine First came across the 78 when I saw in a boat mag where there used one to do the gains in a lapstrake, or clinker boat
My late Dad left me his. For some reason I didn't use it much for years. So a revelation when I finally 'discovered' it years later, and found it could do many rebates with half the fuss it took to set up and use an electric router.
I've been surprised once or twice by people who don't know what the wee spur cutter is for - or sometimes even that it's there at all..
And if you do get the mouth clogged - on any plane? Buy a cheap dental pick. Works every time.
Just found a Record 078 very reasonable price. All cleaned up and ready to roll. Thanks for the vid.
Always a pleasure to see that Mr. Sellers has put out a new video. As ever, very helpful and informative. Best wishes.
excellent catch filling in in the spur cutter 👍
As always, a top notch video. Could you demonstrate sharpening the scoring blade.
It looks intimidating and challenging!
I second the motion. Please, Paul.
Paul, I love that you have so much knowledge and are willing to share it. I just picked up a #78 and I'm just doing a little clean-up on it. I noticed a hole drilled through the top of the tote. Didn't think much of it until I noticed the same on yours. Clearly manufactured that way. Do you, or another viewer, have any idea what that's for? Or is it just part of the manufacturing process?
I have this plane. It is a new one. I found a few issues with the casting on mine. Not hard to fix but something I think should have been a QC catch. But I know they aren't putting any more had time into them than they can due to cost.
I agree with another comment I read that the bull nose part would be interesting to see a demonstration on.
I just bought one of these. It takes a bit of setting up. The blade was not good out of the box. Flattened and sharpened, it all seems to be working now. I need to practice with the thing....
I think I'm going to like it.
Hi Paul, thanks for this excellent video. I watched it before using my plane for the first time today. Pretty good results, all the better for your information here. Mine is missing the depth stop so the work was a little sloppy. Happy with my first attempt though.
Something I've found is to keep the plane as vertical as possible so there is no slope on the groove. (Speaking for experience ;-))
Very lovely tool.
Thanks Paul!
Enjoy your vids. Only thing I would have added is to point out that the nicker is flush with the side of the plane. It's obvious but important not to overlook. Thanks for all you do.
Is there a chance that you can make a tutorial about how to sharpen it?
I just started using my Sargent 1080, Stanley 45 clone, I see it does all this. I was chopping out grooves with a chisel before.
As always an excellent video. I struggle somewhat across grain and I believe it is because my spur cutter is not sharp enough, I compensate by using a knife line but would love to see how to sharpen the spur correctly.
Thank you.
Thanks for your allways interesting vidéos!
Got one from a clueless flea who thought it was broken for 7$ and love it.
What's the difference between this plane and the Stanley 90 bullnose plane? I mean why choose one over the other for making rebates for box bottoms?
I wish Paul had mentioned the bullnose feature on the other cutting position of the plane . There are two positions for the blade to be inserted into.
You actually just answered a question I had. My son gave me one of these things, so I was wondering if I was missing a blade or something. It's one blade, two positions! Thanks!
I should've purchased one of these back in the 1990s when they cost less than $100. At least I did purchase a few nice bench planes when they were still new and affordable.
Always a pleasure.
Is the bevel on the spur toward the body of the plane? I assume you want the flat part of the spur cutter against the "wall"?
could you used it to make a raise panel
Hi Paul, can you talk about the front position for the blade on the 78 plane? I assume it's for getting closer to the finish line when cutting stopped rebates? Love your channel, thanks.
Paul
There is one more thing about this plane that nobody mentions it, by moving the blade to the front it also can be used as a bullnose plane except there is only manual adjustment there.
FYI.
What about the forward blade position? What's it for please.
Have you got any videos showing how to sharpen old angled rebate plane blades and others
What would I use front bullnose for?
thanks for the great video, i just picked one up tonight and wanted to ask whats the correct angle for sharpening the blade??
If you remove the guard it looks the same as a bull nose plane? Especislly with the front blade bed.
👋🐯 I found one that was new old stock in the box and came with three fence rods, I understand using a long fence rod to cut a dado but that would be a thick dado for thick stock, is there an operation I can do that I'm missing out on? Maybe a raised panel. Is there any literature on other uses?
I forgot to mention the rods are 2 7/8"-5 6/8 and the longest @ 9".
I cannot think of anyone who knows more about planes than you, and I have a question about the Stanley 39 dado plane. I am trying to restore one for shop use, and I have acquired the proper knickers, but NOT the screws. As they are rarely available alone, would you know or be able to identify the thread and size of those tiny screws? I will probably have to go aftermarket to find them once I can identify size and thread. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Great video, I was curious, when you were cutting across the end grain is it possible to retract the nicker once the knife line has been astablished
Hi Paul and everybody.
Looking at the body of this plane design it has also a front seat for the cutting iron, isn't it?
I would like to learn more about this. It seems it doesn't allow cutting iron protruding adjustmen or do I have to move somehow the regulation leverage? What is this position meant for? It make the plane work like a bullnose plane? Sorry if it's trivial for you all, I've still a lot to learn.
regards.
Any idea what the vertical hole in the fence is for? The 778 doesn't have it but then again it has double spacing rods to hold the fence horizontal.
Just found one in semi-decent shape at a flea market (car boot sale). Only it is missing the fence and depth stop. Approximately 60% of the Japaning is gone as well. Was definitely a used tool by someone over the years, but no signs of abuse. I'm guessing the missing parts got separated in a drawer by the previous user and maybe the children didn't know to look for them when their dad died? Anyway, as with all older tools, if only they could talk and tell you all of their stories.
Thanks for the video Paul(and team). Is there a way to adjust the depth of cut of the knicker? When I tighten the spur it centers itself around the screw and end up protruding a 16th or more. The plane blade ends up not being able to take a shaving unless I really bear down on the front of the plane.
So why can you not spur cutter when cutting along the grain
What about a bench stop instead of a clamp? Simple, elegant and efficient. Love that plane too by the way, I've had one for 40 years; still does the job. Cheers.
Whatever actually works for you.
I’m curious... I know with a traditional wooden moving fillister it is possible to do simple panel raising by cutting a rebate and then sliding the fence out slightly. Can the 78 be employed in this fashion as well?
Excellent video! How do you use the plane when the you need to cut a rabbit against the grain (not a cross-cut)? Every time I try it, it rips (up) the wood. It's like a need a "left-sided" fillister plane. BTW, I'm using a Record version.
I struggled with this tool for so long. I thought it was junk and ill-designed. Then Paul showed me my plane irons were not and have never been "sharp." Now this plane takes front and center.
Can you still use it if you don't have the fence or the depth stop?
The snicker can't be extended or shortened (as in traditional fillister), is that okay, Mr. Paul? (sorry my english)
When cutting cross grain with the 78 as shown I noticed that Paul did not have any break out at the end of the cut. Would that normally be a concern?
Not really because the spur cutter severs the grain deeper than the main blade so when the main blade takes off its layer the fibres are no longer connected to the main body of grain.
I have a few of these laying around. How would you tune-up one? Same as a Number 4? How do you sharpen that little spur?
new too woodworking
With the fence across the blade, doesn't that mar the blade?
How do you deal with having to cut a rebate where the grain of the wood goes against the motion of the plane? It looks like the plane is designed to be used with the wood being worked on to the right. What would be the proper use if the grain was running backwards, relative to this orientation? Can the hardware on the plane (depth stops, fences, etc.) be reversed?
The fence can be reversed (the arm mounts on either side of the plane), but the nicker and depth stop cannot. Not a big deal as far as the nicker goes, but depth stop's a bit of a bummer.
Thanks, very nice video!
I've recently gotten myself a 78 without the depth adjustment lever. I suppose it's an older one.
Should I try hammer-adjusting it?
Lots of woodworkers continued hammer-tap adjusting even with all the bells and whisles on their Stanley range of bench planes
Hello Paul, I like Your Channel.
I search for my Stanley 55 Kombi-Plane the little Crosscutter. On my Plane are both to short.
Do You know where can I buy this???
Trank You!
Paul, do you ever set this plane up for bullnose planing? I own one of these, but need to clean it up and get it going again.
Not really. I just combine my bullnose plane and chisel with the 78.
Tried to use a plough plane to rebate - because I forgot I owned a 78. Argh - cross grain chip 😬
Thank you for the review. I have this plane but only had just the iron and the clamp. Its a very nice plane but I would like the other parts you showed. Where can I find these? BTW, if the plane should function with the iron extended beyond the sole, how is it supposed to cut a clean wall against the rabbett (rebate)?
Look at stanleytoolparts.com There are kits for the fence, for the depth gauge and lever and for extra spurs and screws for the 78. Be careful that they will fit your model though. As for the protruding iron, remember that your fence is guiding the cut. The body of the plane is not riding against the wall of the cut; the fence keeps it from reaching that far.
The posting of this video couldn't come at a better time, just bought a 78 on line yesterday. I've really got to stop watching Paul's videos. I find myself looking to use hand tools now more than ever. Now if I can find a couple of decent handsaws....
Just look for straight ones. You can always rub them down, for rust, and learn to resharpen them. In my area a straight one is quite hard to find. I find all manner of Diston saws, but they are all holding at least one bend.
Maybe Paul can do a video on how to straighten a bent saw?
I suppose I could buy a few and cut them up to make smaller saws and card scrapers, but I just feel wrong doing that to what was once a great saw.
It took me two videos to figure out that “rebates” are what they call rabbets in the UK.
Rebate is the original English word for “reducing or taking away”. In woodwork the US use the term rabbets, probably a corruption of the original rebate. Rebates are also referred to in English financial terms for a reduction of a fee.
I got my Stanley 78 on ebay for £20, complete just needed a tidy up.
me too
Btw you got a new plywood workbench?!
Can anyone offer any advice on sharpening the spur cutter? I've struggled with this in the past.
Place the hole spur cutter flat on a sharpening plate or stone and rub back and forth. If need be do the bevels but that's more rare than normal.
The cutter is easier to handle if you grab it with a pair of small long nose pliers and lock the pliers with a cable tie, or find some kind of clamp in that shape. For the sharpening itself, I have no advice - I’d look up videos for sharpening carving chisels.
i.got one but someone grinded down the blade flush with sides
Unfortunately, in the last years, the spurs for cross-cutting have been exceedingly expensive as spare parts.
Does anyone know if this has changed in the meanwhile?
My solution was to make one from an old saw blade, only possible if you have a few metalworking tools or if, as in my case, a friend has a few metalworking tools. The reason for the price rise is a mystery. Since Stanley still make this model of plane it isn't what I first thought, scarcity value.
@@FireAngelOfLondon I made one once for a No.50 combination plane by mostly filing a washer of similar diameter and thickness like the spurs. It is possible and works if done alright. But its a bit tedious to work these tiny parts. The price is still due to scarcity, I guess. Haven't found any source for new ones from Stanley.
Stanley part# 1-12-715, the kit for the 78 and a few others has 3 spurs and 6 screws for a little under to a little over $10 US. Available at many online retailers. Average seems to be about $12, saw it one place for $7.50, but maybe there was shipping--others ship free. List price is higher, and some sellers do have highly inflated prices, but keep shopping. Fits 12-052 Type 1, 12-078 Type 1, 12-250 Type 1, 12-978 Type 1, 78 Type 1
@@harlowchandlerjr.6371 Thank you for the info! That is good news. I don't own a 78 (yet), but these should be easily adaptable (by some filing) for the No.50 as well.
Hi Paul,
Love the channel..
I hope you read this and reply.
I’ve had my Irwin Record 778 replaced because the rebates were coming out tapered.
I checked the fence by placing a steel rule along it and it has a bow in it.
I also check the fence to see if it’s square to the sole of the plane and it’s not.
I have since been sent the 078 and another 778 both with the same issues.
No one ever seems to mention this and I’m new to woodworking are they bad planes?
Or is it my method of use. I would be happy to send one to you if that helps.
No need to return.
Thanks in advance Warren
@@alan1413 Thanks for the advice Alan. It’s so annoying that they a sold like this.
I need to start investing in hand planes, but which planes to start with is my dilemma. I forgot the other issue, lack of sufficient funds at the moment.
take a look on eBay auctions. I have buy all mine old planes on eBay ;)
Uncle Paul has you covered: th-cam.com/video/JLg01dj5g04/w-d-xo.html
Many others recommend a modern low angle jack plane - I’d say that’s worth considering, but a good one is blimmin’ expensive. You can pick up great hand planes at places like tooltique.co.uk or vintagetoolshop.com - both in the UK, so shipping might be expensive, but good vintage planes (even restored ones) should be easy to find in the US as well.
Another tip: note how rarely Paul uses a small block plane - almost never. That’s not because they’re no good, but because a No. 4 can pretty much do anything a block plane can. They’re nice to have, but not essential.
#5 jack plane and then a #4 smoothing plane. Start visiting swap meets and yard sales. Watch several plane restoration videos first so you see how things work and what to look for, then go out and find a jack and restore it. You'll be amazed at what you learn about the plane just by restoring. At swaps and yard sales, #5's can be had from $10 to $40 US and #4's a bit more.
I would suggest one bench plane and the the 78 next. In my years as a woodworker it was the stanley 78 that was used most since the blade sneeks into tight spots with the blade being able to reach inside corners. I always buy them when I see them for cheap..
@Autotech1
Very first plane to start with is either a 4 or 4½ and you can do the vast majority of planning with that.
Specialized planes like the one in that video allows you to do special task such as cutting a rebate but if you have no rebate plane and need to cut a rebate you can do it with a chisel and hammer and a saw.
The only three items you need to start with are a simple chisel set, tenon saw and a smoothing plane. The most expensive part of that is the plane.
Does anybody know where to go to buy replacement spurs for the Stanley No.78 ??
I know this old but if you're still looking, try nhplaneparts on eBay. They have tons of parts for almost any plane
@@davidhutchins3986 👍 Cheers, will do. Can't believe that with so many of these planes still in use that these little things are so hard to find, and so damn expensive for what they are.
Once a person gets used to setting it up and using it, I would think it would be quicker than using a power router or table saw for that type of work.
Probably depends on batch size. With the table saw you have to acocunt for att the sleds and jigs you have to build to make it do things is wasnt intended for and wether it's worth building dem to make 4 pieces.
@@adamf1347 Yep for a hobby / one off custom furniture shop I agree but for production applications had tools can get tedious quickly. People very much over use CNC machines and such in hoppy environments aswell. Maybe that's because their hoppy is the machine rather than the end product though.
@@adamf1347 Amateur woodworkers is fine. The other term just seem pompous or pretentious.
If you got a one off this tool is great. It’s when you got a set of 20 windows to make the spindle moulded becomes very attractive. I often use my rebate plane on site instead oh a hand held router things can go wrong fast on a door edge with a router but less likely with a rebate plane.
@@whitacrebespoke Yes. That's exactly my point. No reason tho get tribal about what tools you use. Is like for me as a mechanic the power tools help me get through the day without locking up my joints too often. I do like using good hand tools aswell though.
What is the difference from this plane to a rabbet plane, like the skew version from Veritas? Don't they do the same...? I'm a little confused here...
Well, there's about $200 difference for one thing. Otherwise, the iron in the Veritas is skewed, and that should make cutting a bit easier . The Veritas is probably much more comfortable too use and will have a lovely finish. But yes, the Veritas is an upscale version of the same thing for people with a lot more money than I have.
get an old 78 for cheap.. and get it sharp.. veritas may be necessary only for difficult grain woods.. in which case I would recommend table saw anyway.
Hi Paul! I picked a planer just like the one you describe in your video and I have a question about it. There's a place/groove/bay right in the front of the place/groove/bay where the only blade sits. It looks like a place for a second blade? Is there a second blade on these things or moving the only blade from the rear to the front servers a different purpose?
Paul (and team), is it possible to use a plough plane for thin rebates down the long grain at all?
Can’t be answered for every plough plane, but I have a Record 044, and it would be possible to create a thin rebate, yes. Wobbly, but possible (the rebate plane has a sole that is as wide as the cutting iron, the plough plane doesn’t).
Now I know mine's missing the depth stop.
he needs a longer screwdriver
The poor man rebate plan you made still looks better
Zoom in please. Can't see where Paul is explaining
Finicky tool isnt’ it. It takes more time to adjust it than to use it.
I read „filibuster“ 😉
typo in the video title: Fli...
Thank you for letting us know! This has now been changed. All the best, Team Paul!
I have two of these things, I cannot say I use them much, I have always disliked the way they choke at s drop of a hat.
They work best when doing rebates but you cannot expect them to work like a large open bench plane so you need to take your time.
Rebates are a powerful joint to use when making cabinets and you can also use them in conjunction with mortise and tenon joints.
@@bighands69 I know what they are for ! That was not what my comment was about !!
"I'm showing off" he says in the least show-offy, voice possible. Just matter-of-fact casual dismissive, no attention was drawn at all.