Paul, I've been watching your channel for a bit over a year, and I'v probably seen every video you've produced at least once. I have to say, your wonderful instruction style, obvious love for the topic, and tremendous skill has been both an inspiration, and you've improved my own woodworking skill by miles! I'm at a stage where I prefer a hand tool in many cases where I would have used electric before, and the quality of my projects is far better. Thanks you, sir, for helping me be a better woodworker, and relighting my love for the craft.
Nice one - I just bought a 78 a few weeks ago. I understand that Paul makes money on TH-cam, but I still think it’s incredibly generous to share his wisdom with us this way. Thank you very much, Paul and team.
@@paulsellers7953 Interesting to know, thanks. And based on what I’ve read about monetisation on TH-cam, I can absolutely believe it as well. All the more admirable: thank you for enlightening and delighting us.
Love these planes Paul,as a professional woodworker very often reach for the no 78 ,great for small rebates and usually quicker and easier than a router or spindle moulder,always use mine for making 12mm x 1mm rebates for piano hinges,thanks again
Had one for years and figured out most of it, but of course learned some finer points here. I thought the scribe cutter had the blank side simply for storage; I didn't realize you only used the scribe for cross-grain planing. Also, I didn't realize you're supposed to start on the forward part of the rebate. Thanks for sharing.
I bought one of these at a flea market all the parts were there and after sharpening and a setup I love it as Paul says not essential but it does what it’s intended for beautifully
Thank you for teaching me so much, Paul. I am also a teacher and hope you realize how much we appreciate you sharing your expertise with us. I am restoring my first No. 78, at this time, and I am now much better prepared to use it when I complete the restoration.
Thank you Paul for the explanation of the filleter plane. I have a Sears Craftsman model and have used it only a few times when not using a router for my rebates because I was usually frustrated with how it functioned. Now you have shown me the proper way to set it up. As I move more towards hand tools in my work this plane will be getting more use.
Very, very helpful. I've been thinking about investing in a rebate plane for rebates on family picture frames. I hate using a router for this purpose as I need to set mine up every time in my very small workshed. I am definitely moving towards using hand tools as much as possible; a fraction of the dust and almost zero noise. Trying to find the right one is a problem as I've never seen one in real life! Thanks again for the amazing tutorials Paul.
Hi Paul, I know this was done a few years ago but I loved it as my dear old Dad left one to me (less a few pieces missing) and I intend to restore his old tools. His was made in Sweden, so, it may be metric. I don't know for sure. I will try Stanley to see if this is so. I want it to be a functioning tool for me to use as well as the nostalgia. My aim is to make a tool box to hold what is left of his tools and to use them. I have some of my own and am trying to get into hand woodworking but with a planer thicknesser, small Aldi bandsaw (at least at first) and an Aldi wood lathe to learn on. He was an amazing carpenter-joiner. He could do anything with anything, a natural craftsman but did not want us two boys to get our hands dirty. But that is exactly what boys wanted to do in our times. I am 74 myself, so you know what I mean. Many thanks for your help and inspirational videos. If I get a chance to visit the old dart, I would very much like to visit you. I am in Brisbane Australia and Dad and his family are from Launceston Tasmania. I know you would love the place and the beautiful wood in that part of the country. Cheerio my friend.
I bought 2 of these planes off E bay @ 5 months ago. One was in rather poor shape, so I refinished it. Took a while, but well worth it. The other one didn't need repairs and it came with an extra blade. I think it was a pretty sweet deal.
I just picked one up from a fella that was closing up his shop. I wasn't really sure what it was all about, but it was the only wood working tool he had in his Automotive shop. So I had to grab it. Glad I did and thanks to Paul I now know how to use it!
That is a superb rabbet plane, I have one just like it, a Stanley too. I've used it to make tongues for tongue and groove board joints. The plane does make the job so easy.
Picked up one of these on the side of the road. The guy was set up next to his truck and sold it for $7! Thanks for explaining what this type of plane is for! Looks useful.
My late Dad left me his. For some reason I didn't use it much for years. So a revelation when I finally 'discovered' it years later, and found it could do many rebates with half the fuss it took to set up and use an electric router. I've been surprised once or twice by people who don't know what the wee spur cutter is for - or sometimes even that it's there at all.. And if you do get the mouth clogged - on any plane? Buy a cheap dental pick. Works every time.
It may be a little odd one out, but it would be awesome to have a detailed video about the Stanley 13-050 Combination Plane. Especially the beading fence is confusing.
That is sooooo weird! I have literally five minutes ago just fitted a replacement fence to an old 78 I picked two weeks ago. I thought, “I really should find out more info on this plane, I have no idea about it...”. Thanks Paul for hearing my psychic cry!
I found a rebate plane very similar to yours (same make, but the guide has two rods holding it in place), and I always wondered what the weird bit in front of the blade did! Brilliant advice, thanks.
I just bought one of these. It takes a bit of setting up. The blade was not good out of the box. Flattened and sharpened, it all seems to be working now. I need to practice with the thing.... I think I'm going to like it.
Great idea and well worth getting to know. In essence, the cutting iron is set as you would for the rear setting, but lacks the adjustment arm. This leaves the need to set the cutting iron to approximately the required depth, refining lightly tapping the heel of the iron if advancing it and by lightly tapping the heel of the plane - using a small leather faced/rubber headed mallet - to reduce the cut. NEVER strike the nose of the plane, as - although made from ductile cast iron - it will either distort the nose or snap it off.
I just found one of these in a old box I picked up who knows when and got it cleaned up, sharpened and tried using. In my experience, paul makes it look to easy; like everything else he does! This video will help get me good with it though and that will be one more thing I can do without noisy and dangerous power tools!
You need to practice and learn the wood. It is easy if you practice and build the skills. Do ten rebates and you will start to feel confident, do one hundred and you will star to feel cocky and do one thousand and you will feel like a master.
Paul, I love that you have so much knowledge and are willing to share it. I just picked up a #78 and I'm just doing a little clean-up on it. I noticed a hole drilled through the top of the tote. Didn't think much of it until I noticed the same on yours. Clearly manufactured that way. Do you, or another viewer, have any idea what that's for? Or is it just part of the manufacturing process?
I just took mine apart and found a ton of extremely stubborn old shmoo in the recesses for the spur cutter. I’d imagine I’m not the only one, so here’s the tip: I managed to scrape it out with stainless steel dentist utensils. Available on Amazon, and very handy for all kinds of small jobs.
I have this plane. It is a new one. I found a few issues with the casting on mine. Not hard to fix but something I think should have been a QC catch. But I know they aren't putting any more had time into them than they can due to cost. I agree with another comment I read that the bull nose part would be interesting to see a demonstration on.
Excellent video and instruction! So useful. I own the Record version of this tool and it benefits by a two post fence attachment and a nice(r) blade advance mechanism. Highly recommended.
I own one of these (the same as what's shown in the video) they are great planes I find it to be a great addition to my tool kit. Thanks for the great video Paul. Long time subscriber here!! 😁
I’ve been at it 55 years. Can I still learn from your videos? I certainly do. I’ve just got out my Stanley 78 and sharpened the nicker with a diamond slip stone. I can now use it across the grain for the first time in years. One less job for the Bosch router! I had to adjust the side protrusion to match the nicker cut. I also discovered I had a rusty spare without fences with the blade in the forward position. Almost bullnose but not quite. I must have bought it at a junk shop years ago. I’m not sure when that would have a use. Maybe for a stopped rebate
Enjoy your vids. Only thing I would have added is to point out that the nicker is flush with the side of the plane. It's obvious but important not to overlook. Thanks for all you do.
Hi Paul, thanks for this excellent video. I watched it before using my plane for the first time today. Pretty good results, all the better for your information here. Mine is missing the depth stop so the work was a little sloppy. Happy with my first attempt though.
As always an excellent video. I struggle somewhat across grain and I believe it is because my spur cutter is not sharp enough, I compensate by using a knife line but would love to see how to sharpen the spur correctly.
Dear sir, I am a novice handtool woodworking hobbyist who takes your advice for restoring vintage hand planes. Following your instructions I successfully restored a Record Marples No 04 and it works beautifully. I am now on a hunt for a Stanley no78 rebate plane. During my search I noticed there are two Stanley models. On one the name of the manufacturing country is mentioned as MADE IN ENGLAND. On the other model it is MADE IN ENG. I am quite confused about this. If you spare a couple of minutes, I would like to know your thoughts on this. Thank you for enlightening us.
My Stanley 78's sole is not completely flat, the back sole seems slightly twisted to the side related to the front. Should I grind/sand the complete sole flat? And is it necessary that the side is exactly 90º to the sole (which is not the case, at least not with the back side of the sole)? And as well: thanks again for the great video!
Thank you! Just getting started and your instruction is amazing. Trying to decide between the stanley 78 and the record 778 with the two rods. Is there any advantage to the two rod system in practice? The stanley 78 that I have tried has a fence that seems to wiggle a bit but the pivot point is quite near the blade so perhaps it doesn't matter? Any thoughts would be appreciated from yourself or the community at large here. Thank you in advance.
Kinda scary! I'm about done cleaning up an old one I bought with a lot of planes. i was curious about how these work, and this video pops up! Thanks, Mr. Sellers for the knowledge!
Hi Paul, can you talk about the front position for the blade on the 78 plane? I assume it's for getting closer to the finish line when cutting stopped rebates? Love your channel, thanks.
👋🐯 I found one that was new old stock in the box and came with three fence rods, I understand using a long fence rod to cut a dado but that would be a thick dado for thick stock, is there an operation I can do that I'm missing out on? Maybe a raised panel. Is there any literature on other uses? I forgot to mention the rods are 2 7/8"-5 6/8 and the longest @ 9".
I cannot think of anyone who knows more about planes than you, and I have a question about the Stanley 39 dado plane. I am trying to restore one for shop use, and I have acquired the proper knickers, but NOT the screws. As they are rarely available alone, would you know or be able to identify the thread and size of those tiny screws? I will probably have to go aftermarket to find them once I can identify size and thread. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I would like to see a video on sharpening that odd shaped iron. I have my grandfather's Stanley and the iron has been worked into a shape like a skew chisel! I have been able to use it to clean up rabbet's made with a dado blade. So, at least it works!
They say that really good editing goes unnoticed by the viewer, and I have just realized how good your editing is. Lots of cut ins to closeups all perfectly focused and appearing to be in real time. Very few of the channels I watch do proper editing. They just turn on the camera, and upload the entire thing.
There are times that I would appreciate a different camera angle, Trevor, to really get close to what Paul is adjusting or talking about. However, I do agree that his videos are superb. I’ve learnt so much over this past few years. He’s a wealth of knowledge and I can’t thank him enough.
@@johnkneemtb I own a canon XF300 which is a broadcast quality 4:2:2 video camera. I paid NZ$13 for it several years ago. It can't sync with other cameras though. For that you need the XF305 which can be synced to more similarly equipped cameras. So I was thinking it not very likely you could mix multiple GoPro type cameras in real time, but checked with Google before making a twat of myself, and I was astonished to find that it is indeed doable. What the heck?! www.timecodesystems.com/how-to-sync-gopro-hero6/
Thanks for the video Paul(and team). Is there a way to adjust the depth of cut of the knicker? When I tighten the spur it centers itself around the screw and end up protruding a 16th or more. The plane blade ends up not being able to take a shaving unless I really bear down on the front of the plane.
Hi Paul and everybody. Looking at the body of this plane design it has also a front seat for the cutting iron, isn't it? I would like to learn more about this. It seems it doesn't allow cutting iron protruding adjustmen or do I have to move somehow the regulation leverage? What is this position meant for? It make the plane work like a bullnose plane? Sorry if it's trivial for you all, I've still a lot to learn. regards.
I found a couple for my #45 at an antique tool show. Your area may host one as well. Did you ever find one? Next time I'm there I'll pick up as many as I can.
@@simongilchrist3329 I never did find one, thanks for asking. I'm still on the lookout. You can get copies of this plane in the UK and I'm trying to get one of the manufacturers of them to supply a cutting Spur that will hopefully fit my old 78.
@@StarDustSid whenever the show opens again, and assuming I can get a couple, I'll ship you one. Sucks having a plane like this and not being able to use it.
Interesting festool has only recently bought out a tracksww that scores the material before cutting when this has been doing it for generations already!
Hello Paul, I like Your Channel. I search for my Stanley 55 Kombi-Plane the little Crosscutter. On my Plane are both to short. Do You know where can I buy this??? Trank You!
My grandfather, who died when I was 3 years old, had one of these but it's a really unusual one. It's not a Stanley or a Record. It's an 'Anchor' brand plane that was made in Sweden. It doesn't look especially high or low quality but it's still in very good condition. A number of years ago I managed to source a set of depth and fence attachments for it but the threads were not the right ones for the plane and although I did attach them, they were never properly secured and the plane didn't really work properly. I suspect the threads - being Swedish - were metric. By the way, there's another word for these that seems to be unique to Australia (where I'm from). Here they were known as 'rebbet' planes. Similar in pronunciation to the American 'rabbet' but with an 'e' instead of an 'a'.
Excellent video! How do you use the plane when the you need to cut a rabbit against the grain (not a cross-cut)? Every time I try it, it rips (up) the wood. It's like a need a "left-sided" fillister plane. BTW, I'm using a Record version.
Paul, Do you have an opinion on the later (778) version of this plane, which offers the twin guide bars for a more rigid fence,and has a screw mechanism for depth of cut adjustment? I always found it was too easy to accidentally knock the pivot lever out of setting on the 78 model.
I’m curious... I know with a traditional wooden moving fillister it is possible to do simple panel raising by cutting a rebate and then sliding the fence out slightly. Can the 78 be employed in this fashion as well?
I have one of those! Now I have a much better understanding of how it should be used - and that little do-dad on the side - I was wondering what that was.
It‘s for the same blade, to get (almost) all the way into corners. You can actually turn the plane around and mount the fence on the other side to get into the other corner as well - you just won’t have the spur cutter and the depth stop.
For stopped rebates. Create the bulk of the rebate length at the regular setting and then move the blade forward to take down the very end having first chiselled sloped cut to receive the end of the pane.
Paul There is one more thing about this plane that nobody mentions it, by moving the blade to the front it also can be used as a bullnose plane except there is only manual adjustment there. FYI.
I recently picked one of these up on ebay a couple of weeks before this video was posted in preparation for starting the workbench build. It had some surface rust and I took it apart to clean it up last night and noticed it's the earlier version with no adjustment lever. Paul - do you have any tips for using this earlier model? Presume it's set with a hammer tap?
Search for Stanley part# 1-12-715; they are available for very little money at many retailers online. You will get a kit with 3 new spur cutters and six new screws, because they know you're going to lose that tiny screw on the shop floor every time you try to change the spur.
Paul, I've been watching your channel for a bit over a year, and I'v probably seen every video you've produced at least once. I have to say, your wonderful instruction style, obvious love for the topic, and tremendous skill has been both an inspiration, and you've improved my own woodworking skill by miles!
I'm at a stage where I prefer a hand tool in many cases where I would have used electric before, and the quality of my projects is far better.
Thanks you, sir, for helping me be a better woodworker, and relighting my love for the craft.
Greetings Paul from a student of yours in 2002 in Texas. I use my #78 and I also like my #50.
Nice one - I just bought a 78 a few weeks ago. I understand that Paul makes money on TH-cam, but I still think it’s incredibly generous to share his wisdom with us this way. Thank you very much, Paul and team.
Just so you know, our costs of creating quality videos exceed what income comes from it.
@@paulsellers7953 Interesting to know, thanks. And based on what I’ve read about monetisation on TH-cam, I can absolutely believe it as well. All the more admirable: thank you for enlightening and delighting us.
You’ve taught me 80% of my woodworking skills,I thank you paul 👍🏻
90% of mine, and I thank him as well.
Love these planes Paul,as a professional woodworker very often reach for the no 78 ,great for small rebates and usually quicker and easier than a router or spindle moulder,always use mine for making 12mm x 1mm rebates for piano hinges,thanks again
Had one for years and figured out most of it, but of course learned some finer points here. I thought the scribe cutter had the blank side simply for storage; I didn't realize you only used the scribe for cross-grain planing. Also, I didn't realize you're supposed to start on the forward part of the rebate. Thanks for sharing.
I bought one of these at a flea market all the parts were there and after sharpening and a setup I love it as Paul says not essential but it does what it’s intended for beautifully
They are essential if you use them to cut rebates or to cut tenons.
One of my favorite planes! thanks again for the wealth of information!
Hey, James.
Thank you for teaching me so much, Paul. I am also a teacher and hope you realize how much we appreciate you sharing your expertise with us. I am restoring my first No. 78, at this time, and I am now much better prepared to use it when I complete the restoration.
Thank you Paul for the explanation of the filleter plane. I have a Sears Craftsman model and have used it only a few times when not using a router for my rebates because I was usually frustrated with how it functioned. Now you have shown me the proper way to set it up. As I move more towards hand tools in my work this plane will be getting more use.
Had a #78 for years, actually 2, one is modern, about 1940’s and one is about 1910. Both work beautifully. Also like my #50 as a quick handy rebater.
Friday and a Paul Sellers Video! Perfect!
Very, very helpful. I've been thinking about investing in a rebate plane for rebates on family picture frames. I hate using a router for this purpose as I need to set mine up every time in my very small workshed. I am definitely moving towards using hand tools as much as possible; a fraction of the dust and almost zero noise. Trying to find the right one is a problem as I've never seen one in real life! Thanks again for the amazing tutorials Paul.
Hi Paul, I know this was done a few years ago but I loved it as my dear old Dad left one to me (less a few pieces missing) and I intend to restore his old tools. His was made in Sweden, so, it may be metric. I don't know for sure. I will try Stanley to see if this is so. I want it to be a functioning tool for me to use as well as the nostalgia. My aim is to make a tool box to hold what is left of his tools and to use them. I have some of my own and am trying to get into hand woodworking but with a planer thicknesser, small Aldi bandsaw (at least at first) and an Aldi wood lathe to learn on. He was an amazing carpenter-joiner. He could do anything with anything, a natural craftsman but did not want us two boys to get our hands dirty. But that is exactly what boys wanted to do in our times. I am 74 myself, so you know what I mean. Many thanks for your help and inspirational videos. If I get a chance to visit the old dart, I would very much like to visit you. I am in Brisbane Australia and Dad and his family are from Launceston Tasmania. I know you would love the place and the beautiful wood in that part of the country. Cheerio my friend.
I got one in great shape just few weeks ago! This video could not have been uploaded at a better time, thank you Paul.
thanks for making these, you're always the first person i go to watch when i'm wanting to learn a new tool
Thanks for sharing Paul. Really useful and interesting. Your videos are always a joy to watch. All the best.
I have that plane. It’s a gift from my neighbor. I didn’t know how to cut in end grain. Thank you for the video.
I bought 2 of these planes off E bay @ 5 months ago. One was in rather poor shape, so I refinished it. Took a while, but well worth it. The other one didn't need repairs and it came with an extra blade. I think it was a pretty sweet deal.
The first plane I bought at a second hand shop which started my interest in handtool woodworking :).
I just picked one up from a fella that was closing up his shop. I wasn't really sure what it was all about, but it was the only wood working tool he had in his Automotive shop. So I had to grab it. Glad I did and thanks to Paul I now know how to use it!
How do u feel about using & adjusting it , I maybe have one soon love to know ??
That is a superb rabbet plane, I have one just like it, a Stanley too. I've used it to make tongues for tongue and groove board joints. The plane does make the job so easy.
Picked up one of these on the side of the road. The guy was set up next to his truck and sold it for $7! Thanks for explaining what this type of plane is for! Looks useful.
My late Dad left me his. For some reason I didn't use it much for years. So a revelation when I finally 'discovered' it years later, and found it could do many rebates with half the fuss it took to set up and use an electric router.
I've been surprised once or twice by people who don't know what the wee spur cutter is for - or sometimes even that it's there at all..
And if you do get the mouth clogged - on any plane? Buy a cheap dental pick. Works every time.
It may be a little odd one out, but it would be awesome to have a detailed video about the Stanley 13-050 Combination Plane. Especially the beading fence is confusing.
That is sooooo weird! I have literally five minutes ago just fitted a replacement fence to an old 78 I picked two weeks ago.
I thought, “I really should find out more info on this plane, I have no idea about it...”.
Thanks Paul for hearing my psychic cry!
Much quicker, and quieter, than all the trouble of setting up a noisy machine.
Every time Paul demonstrates a tool theres a rush on Ebay 😁
And the price goes up and up lol. I always miss out on old router's probability thanks to Paul 🤔😁
I know, he's like the Delia Smith of woodworking.
Mine has been on the shelf for years because I didn't know how to use it. I'll be getting it out today to play. Thanks Paul.
So true.
I found a rebate plane very similar to yours (same make, but the guide has two rods holding it in place), and I always wondered what the weird bit in front of the blade did!
Brilliant advice, thanks.
I just bought one of these. It takes a bit of setting up. The blade was not good out of the box. Flattened and sharpened, it all seems to be working now. I need to practice with the thing....
I think I'm going to like it.
Would love to see a demo on using the blade in the front slot (bull-nose?) cheers
This.
Great idea and well worth getting to know. In essence, the cutting iron is set as you would for the rear setting, but lacks the adjustment arm. This leaves the need to set the cutting iron to approximately the required depth, refining lightly tapping the heel of the iron if advancing it and by lightly tapping the heel of the plane - using a small leather faced/rubber headed mallet - to reduce the cut.
NEVER strike the nose of the plane, as - although made from ductile cast iron - it will either distort the nose or snap it off.
Little confused here , so the blade should be flush with the plane when I take a shave or not being out a little bit from the plane ?? help pls 🙄
@@athmostafa2462 advance the edge of the iron until it removes the desired shaving
@@gazpal NO , no I meant the edge side of the blade 🤔 not the front ?
I just found one of these in a old box I picked up who knows when and got it cleaned up, sharpened and tried using. In my experience, paul makes it look to easy; like everything else he does! This video will help get me good with it though and that will be one more thing I can do without noisy and dangerous power tools!
You need to practice and learn the wood. It is easy if you practice and build the skills. Do ten rebates and you will start to feel confident, do one hundred and you will star to feel cocky and do one thousand and you will feel like a master.
I just got a vintage Record version that still has the box and brochure. Excited to use it.
Just picked one up for £5. Awesome, and once sharpened it works like a dream.
Paul, I love that you have so much knowledge and are willing to share it. I just picked up a #78 and I'm just doing a little clean-up on it. I noticed a hole drilled through the top of the tote. Didn't think much of it until I noticed the same on yours. Clearly manufactured that way. Do you, or another viewer, have any idea what that's for? Or is it just part of the manufacturing process?
I just took mine apart and found a ton of extremely stubborn old shmoo in the recesses for the spur cutter. I’d imagine I’m not the only one, so here’s the tip: I managed to scrape it out with stainless steel dentist utensils. Available on Amazon, and very handy for all kinds of small jobs.
I have this plane. It is a new one. I found a few issues with the casting on mine. Not hard to fix but something I think should have been a QC catch. But I know they aren't putting any more had time into them than they can due to cost.
I agree with another comment I read that the bull nose part would be interesting to see a demonstration on.
Thanks Paul, another great video. I bought one a few weeks back, now I know how to set the iron properly. Cheers
Is there a chance that you can make a tutorial about how to sharpen it?
Great information, thank you. Hope sometime in the near future you cover how to use the plane withe the iron in the forward position.
What a fascinating tool! I like watching that one at work, along with a ploughing plane. Soooo satisfying haha!
Excellent video and instruction! So useful. I own the Record version of this tool and it benefits by a two post fence attachment and a nice(r) blade advance mechanism. Highly recommended.
I own one of these (the same as what's shown in the video) they are great planes I find it to be a great addition to my tool kit. Thanks for the great video Paul. Long time subscriber here!! 😁
I love your user name. 😄
@@TrevorDennis100 thanks Dennis
@@TrevorDennis100 I have a channel if you'd like to check it out. Just type my user name into the TH-cam search bar
I’ve been at it 55 years. Can I still learn from your videos? I certainly do. I’ve just got out my Stanley 78 and sharpened the nicker with a diamond slip stone. I can now use it across the grain for the first time in years. One less job for the Bosch router! I had to adjust the side protrusion to match the nicker cut. I also discovered I had a rusty spare without fences with the blade in the forward position. Almost bullnose but not quite. I must have bought it at a junk shop years ago. I’m not sure when that would have a use. Maybe for a stopped rebate
Here’s an idea: th-cam.com/video/tCcDXUShX9A/w-d-xo.html
Having purchased one last year, I cannot imagine not having one in my arsenal now.
Enjoy your vids. Only thing I would have added is to point out that the nicker is flush with the side of the plane. It's obvious but important not to overlook. Thanks for all you do.
Love mine First came across the 78 when I saw in a boat mag where there used one to do the gains in a lapstrake, or clinker boat
Hi Paul, thanks for this excellent video. I watched it before using my plane for the first time today. Pretty good results, all the better for your information here. Mine is missing the depth stop so the work was a little sloppy. Happy with my first attempt though.
How many irons are there for the 78?
4:20 Mr Seller does not need a ruler. If he says a half inch then it is indeed 1/2".
It's all about the experience
Just found a Record 078 very reasonable price. All cleaned up and ready to roll. Thanks for the vid.
As always an excellent video. I struggle somewhat across grain and I believe it is because my spur cutter is not sharp enough, I compensate by using a knife line but would love to see how to sharpen the spur correctly.
As always, a top notch video. Could you demonstrate sharpening the scoring blade.
It looks intimidating and challenging!
I second the motion. Please, Paul.
What's the difference between this plane and the Stanley 90 bullnose plane? I mean why choose one over the other for making rebates for box bottoms?
Dear sir, I am a novice handtool woodworking hobbyist who takes your advice for restoring vintage hand planes. Following your instructions I successfully restored a Record Marples No 04 and it works beautifully. I am now on a hunt for a Stanley no78 rebate plane. During my search I noticed there are two Stanley models. On one the name of the manufacturing country is mentioned as MADE IN ENGLAND. On the other model it is MADE IN ENG.
I am quite confused about this. If you spare a couple of minutes, I would like to know your thoughts on this.
Thank you for enlightening us.
My Stanley 78's sole is not completely flat, the back sole seems slightly twisted to the side related to the front. Should I grind/sand the complete sole flat? And is it necessary that the side is exactly 90º to the sole (which is not the case, at least not with the back side of the sole)?
And as well: thanks again for the great video!
Thank you! Just getting started and your instruction is amazing. Trying to decide between the stanley 78 and the record 778 with the two rods. Is there any advantage to the two rod system in practice? The stanley 78 that I have tried has a fence that seems to wiggle a bit but the pivot point is quite near the blade so perhaps it doesn't matter? Any thoughts would be appreciated from yourself or the community at large here. Thank you in advance.
thanks for the great video, i just picked one up tonight and wanted to ask whats the correct angle for sharpening the blade??
Been looking for a used one fo years. Thanks for adjusting tips
pura vida paul great review I hope one day use one this in my workshop. I love work with hand tools pura vida
Very interesting. Cheers Paul.
Have you got any videos showing how to sharpen old angled rebate plane blades and others
Kinda scary! I'm about done cleaning up an old one I bought with a lot of planes. i was curious about how these work, and this video pops up! Thanks, Mr. Sellers for the knowledge!
Is the bevel on the spur toward the body of the plane? I assume you want the flat part of the spur cutter against the "wall"?
Hi Paul, can you talk about the front position for the blade on the 78 plane? I assume it's for getting closer to the finish line when cutting stopped rebates? Love your channel, thanks.
I just started using my Sargent 1080, Stanley 45 clone, I see it does all this. I was chopping out grooves with a chisel before.
Thanks I just got mine delivered today. 😃
Thanks for your allways interesting vidéos!
excellent catch filling in in the spur cutter 👍
Great video, I was curious, when you were cutting across the end grain is it possible to retract the nicker once the knife line has been astablished
I’m always getting problems with lateral leaning in one direction or the other, as it the fence or depth stopper arent big or wide enough. Any tips?
👋🐯 I found one that was new old stock in the box and came with three fence rods, I understand using a long fence rod to cut a dado but that would be a thick dado for thick stock, is there an operation I can do that I'm missing out on? Maybe a raised panel. Is there any literature on other uses?
I forgot to mention the rods are 2 7/8"-5 6/8 and the longest @ 9".
I cannot think of anyone who knows more about planes than you, and I have a question about the Stanley 39 dado plane. I am trying to restore one for shop use, and I have acquired the proper knickers, but NOT the screws. As they are rarely available alone, would you know or be able to identify the thread and size of those tiny screws? I will probably have to go aftermarket to find them once I can identify size and thread. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Hi. How much should the blade protrude past the side even it shouldn't be even as you say?
I would like to see a video on sharpening that odd shaped iron. I have my grandfather's Stanley and the iron has been worked into a shape like a skew chisel! I have been able to use it to clean up rabbet's made with a dado blade. So, at least it works!
I have a few of these laying around. How would you tune-up one? Same as a Number 4? How do you sharpen that little spur?
They say that really good editing goes unnoticed by the viewer, and I have just realized how good your editing is. Lots of cut ins to closeups all perfectly focused and appearing to be in real time. Very few of the channels I watch do proper editing. They just turn on the camera, and upload the entire thing.
There are times that I would appreciate a different camera angle, Trevor, to really get close to what Paul is adjusting or talking about. However, I do agree that his videos are superb. I’ve learnt so much over this past few years. He’s a wealth of knowledge and I can’t thank him enough.
Why do you think they aren't in real time? 3 cameras?
@@johnkneemtb I own a canon XF300 which is a broadcast quality 4:2:2 video camera. I paid NZ$13 for it several years ago. It can't sync with other cameras though. For that you need the XF305 which can be synced to more similarly equipped cameras. So I was thinking it not very likely you could mix multiple GoPro type cameras in real time, but checked with Google before making a twat of myself, and I was astonished to find that it is indeed doable. What the heck?! www.timecodesystems.com/how-to-sync-gopro-hero6/
Something I've found is to keep the plane as vertical as possible so there is no slope on the groove. (Speaking for experience ;-))
Very lovely tool.
Thanks for the video Paul(and team). Is there a way to adjust the depth of cut of the knicker? When I tighten the spur it centers itself around the screw and end up protruding a 16th or more. The plane blade ends up not being able to take a shaving unless I really bear down on the front of the plane.
Hi Paul and everybody.
Looking at the body of this plane design it has also a front seat for the cutting iron, isn't it?
I would like to learn more about this. It seems it doesn't allow cutting iron protruding adjustmen or do I have to move somehow the regulation leverage? What is this position meant for? It make the plane work like a bullnose plane? Sorry if it's trivial for you all, I've still a lot to learn.
regards.
I Inherited one of these planes, but it was missing its spur cutter. I found replacements are rather difficult to get hold of.
A good metal fabricator could make you one easy.
I found a couple for my #45 at an antique tool show. Your area may host one as well. Did you ever find one? Next time I'm there I'll pick up as many as I can.
@@simongilchrist3329 I never did find one, thanks for asking. I'm still on the lookout.
You can get copies of this plane in the UK and I'm trying to get one of the manufacturers of them to supply a cutting Spur that will hopefully fit my old 78.
@@StarDustSid whenever the show opens again, and assuming I can get a couple, I'll ship you one. Sucks having a plane like this and not being able to use it.
Does anyone know where we can see how to make our own spurs from a hacksaw? I keep hearing about it but don't know how to go about it.. Thanks.
Any idea what the vertical hole in the fence is for? The 778 doesn't have it but then again it has double spacing rods to hold the fence horizontal.
Hey, can you also mount the blade to the front side?
could you used it to make a raise panel
Interesting festool has only recently bought out a tracksww that scores the material before cutting when this has been doing it for generations already!
are there wider filister planes? like 3-4 inch wide cuttings?
Hello Paul, I like Your Channel.
I search for my Stanley 55 Kombi-Plane the little Crosscutter. On my Plane are both to short.
Do You know where can I buy this???
Trank You!
My grandfather, who died when I was 3 years old, had one of these but it's a really unusual one. It's not a Stanley or a Record. It's an 'Anchor' brand plane that was made in Sweden. It doesn't look especially high or low quality but it's still in very good condition. A number of years ago I managed to source a set of depth and fence attachments for it but the threads were not the right ones for the plane and although I did attach them, they were never properly secured and the plane didn't really work properly. I suspect the threads - being Swedish - were metric.
By the way, there's another word for these that seems to be unique to Australia (where I'm from). Here they were known as 'rebbet' planes. Similar in pronunciation to the American 'rabbet' but with an 'e' instead of an 'a'.
Excellent video! How do you use the plane when the you need to cut a rabbit against the grain (not a cross-cut)? Every time I try it, it rips (up) the wood. It's like a need a "left-sided" fillister plane. BTW, I'm using a Record version.
Paul, Do you have an opinion on the later (778) version of this plane, which offers the twin guide bars for a more rigid fence,and has a screw mechanism for depth of cut adjustment? I always found it was too easy to accidentally knock the pivot lever out of setting on the 78 model.
Without the fence can it be used for dadoes and grooves?
I’m curious... I know with a traditional wooden moving fillister it is possible to do simple panel raising by cutting a rebate and then sliding the fence out slightly. Can the 78 be employed in this fashion as well?
I have one of those! Now I have a much better understanding of how it should be used - and that little do-dad on the side - I was wondering what that was.
Great timing with the video Paul. I just got lucky and got a 778 on eBay for $43!
Paul what's the front mounting for?
It‘s for the same blade, to get (almost) all the way into corners. You can actually turn the plane around and mount the fence on the other side to get into the other corner as well - you just won’t have the spur cutter and the depth stop.
Front blade mount is used like a bullnose plane
For stopped rebates. Create the bulk of the rebate length at the regular setting and then move the blade forward to take down the very end having first chiselled sloped cut to receive the end of the pane.
Paul
There is one more thing about this plane that nobody mentions it, by moving the blade to the front it also can be used as a bullnose plane except there is only manual adjustment there.
FYI.
I recently picked one of these up on ebay a couple of weeks before this video was posted in preparation for starting the workbench build. It had some surface rust and I took it apart to clean it up last night and noticed it's the earlier version with no adjustment lever. Paul - do you have any tips for using this earlier model? Presume it's set with a hammer tap?
Got one from a clueless flea who thought it was broken for 7$ and love it.
where do I get a replacement spur? haven't been able to locate one. Mine was broken when i got it new..
Search for Stanley part# 1-12-715; they are available for very little money at many retailers online. You will get a kit with 3 new spur cutters and six new screws, because they know you're going to lose that tiny screw on the shop floor every time you try to change the spur.
THANK YOU!!!