Chris- you have compiled all the things that go wrong for inexperienced planers and set those considerations forth in a clear, understandable manner. This video is a treasure!
I have learned more in this short 27 minutes, than I have learned in 35-40 years. My step father was a master carpenter and what little he shared with me, and then later working in a cabinet shop, I had a 'workable' understanding. But this taught me a lot of remedies to problems I didn't know how to solve. THANK YOU !
Thank you SO MUCH for your wealth of information! As a new woodworker, your advice gives me more confidence in being able to correct any problem I will have with my hand planes.
I have solved a lot of my problems by running the plane on a bar of paraffin right after sharpening. This traps the wax where wood particles would normally get trapped- it also keeps oxidation from happening and keeps the shavings running smoothly out of the mouth. Just a really quick run over some clear paraffin and clear any stuck wax that will clog the mouth. Try it- I’m sure I’m not the first to do this but I haven’t seen anyone else do this except on the sole. The blade and breaker need it too
Absolutely a great video, thanks. This helps greatly. Very knowledgable. I’m not a big plane user but just kinda started with planes. Got a Woodriver #3,4,5,6 and was working with the #4 Jack plane. Got iron sharp enough to shave with with a mirror polished 25 degree grind and it’s like what’s going on here, I can’t make any sharper lol. Found the chip breaker screw loose and floating in the breeze 🤣🤣🤣 so your explanation really helps to understand
When I compared my 3 Stanley planes -No 4 No 4 1/2 and No 5 All good pre war models , I found that they all had the lateral adjuster "dimple "or rivet pressing up on the cap iron. This was creating friction when I wanted to adjust the lateral lever. So by inserting some thin cardboard (nice and oily ) between blade and cap iron I now have a smooth adjuster and don`t start moving the lever cap screw which is totally innocent .
On a Spear and Jackson No 4 it has a narrow mouth and I fitted a 2 part Stay Set cap iron . There is no frog adjuster screw at the back . It just has the 2 clamping screws with some room for movement . Just for fun I took out the front section of the cap iron and put the lever cap on with the screw wound in a bit. What a nice sense of freedom to use it like an old wood plane .No clogging or fussing with a chip breaker .A good hefty Carpenter setting .
A Hock blade and (especially) chip breaker transformed my old WW2 era Stanley 4 1/2 into a fine tool. Had to flatten the sole a bunch and back bevel the mouth opening to get it to take really fine shavings. My next plane purchase will be a LN 5 1/2
I have watched a couple of vids of Roy Underhill with him and found him to be very informative. Of course it takes someone that knows something really well to make it sound simple. First clue. Im on this guy like a dog. There is always so much to learn. Best part he is not an old fart and likely to leave us soon....,
One of the biggest things I've seen with the uninitiated is, putting the iron and chip breaker together wrong. Most often with the iron bevel up. And the other thing is the chip breaker too far away from the edge.
Hey is that a Hock blade and chip breaker you are using there? The blade has those nice swirl marks from a Blanchard grinder? Original blades work pretty good but the metallurgy on the new ones is better.
Would you know the reason why my plane isn't cutting full shavings? Its only cutting in the center of the blade. I tune it up pretty good that know of, the sole seems to be pretty flat, the blade is sharp, im getting good thin shavings just not full shavings, the blade is straight and true, everything is tighten down, could i get some help about this problem
When you transcribed that German book into English you sell, did you translate it word for word or did you edit/redact any of the wording? I’m interested in the original content only with no wording or sentences changed to make as one might say, “more fluent” Changing any wording destroys the entire meaning, I like the original so I can decide on my own what the original author is saying. Thanks
Should tighten the chip breaker (cap iron) screw against the bench, not your hand. If you slip, you get a screwdriver into the palm of your hand - it hurts, from experience.
I had a problem when I bought a new iron for an old No. 6 and the throat wasn't open enough for the blade to fit and allow shavings to move above the iron.
I should add that the new Hock (sp?) iron was a lot thicker than the original stanley iron. I finally decided that if I wanted to use that iron, I would have to open the throat. The throat was a lot narrower than any other I had ever seen. I carefully filed it and the plane works great now.
@@ugaladh Hello ugaladh. No, the blade wouldn't fit, and moving the frog only made it not fit in another spot. I eventually filed out the throat and it's working great the past few years.
Thanks for the video. Iam completely new to planes. I bought a used craftsman 107 14" . I can not get the blade to retract inside enough to not take a shaving. My frog is completely flush. I assemble the plane, it adjusts out, and almost... almost back in fully, but still is protruding about 1/32" HELP... anyone, I can not figure this out after repeated videos.
Кстати, про байки, которые травит Лапти! Чтобы это понять, надо понимать в целом про чеченцев! Чеченцы, как и многие кавказцы, склонны к преувеличениям, гиперболам, или, проще говоря, к брехне! Я много там провели времени, и во время обеих войн. и до, и после! Помню, как в 1989 г, приехали по делам в Грозный. Встречает нас местный мент, на "мерседесе"! Машина была подержанной, но для того времени, круть невероятная! Мы были впечатлены, а вечером он нас пригласил в гости, в свой недостроенный дом. И там, тоже был легкий шок! Нищета, земляной пол, чумазые и босые дети! Один из наших, и говорит: - Ему бы продать свой "мерс", и достроить дом, купить детям одежды!? И тут, один из чеченцев, нам все объяснил: - Поймите, ему, на его должность в ментовке, и на этот "мерс", всем родом скидывались, чтобы выглядел на людях крутым, а дети потерпят! Позже, я много раз убеждался, как могли прихвастнуть - Дудаев, Басаев, тот же Закаев! Последний, будучи актером, до сих пор фантазирует в украинских пабликах)) С чем все это связано? Думаю, с какими то комплексами, которые свойственны представителям небольших этносов! Наблюдать за этим забавно, это из области психологии, пока это не касается серьезных вещей))😀
The question I have about a plane not cutting is when I am trying to plane very hard woods like osage orange or olivewood. How do I get the plane to bite into woods that are very dense and have a high janka number.
How to flush the front edge of the chip breaker with the plane blade at interface. I am collecting shavings under the chip breaker. Stanley #4 bench plane.
You have to sand it. Check out Sellers' video on how to restore the bench plane or Mat Estlea's on how to set one up. They both cover it in detail. I too had that problem repeatedly until I sanded them flush
You need to use sandpaper or a sharpening stone and flatten your chip breaker so that when you place it against the plane you can see no light between the two mating surfaces. The problem you are having I assume is a small gap between and the wood shaving is forced into that gap.
1.Usually its the chipbreaker not aligned to the blade proper. 2. Your blade may be protruding too far. 3. The mouth might be too closed. 4. Your plane iron may not be at the right angle. (Different woods require different 'bite')
I'm unsure of the meaning of that term "over-compressed" ...but I really like his voice, nice and distinct, crisp enunciation, etc. In fact I'd rate it about the best I've found out in You Tube land. He does throw in some extraneous, what I'd call rolling pauses, e.g. "...you knows", "...and uhs", but you have to search long and hard to find someone who doesn't ...other than among the professional speakers ranks.
Chris- you have compiled all the things that go wrong for inexperienced planers and set those considerations forth in a clear, understandable manner. This video is a treasure!
I have learned more in this short 27 minutes, than I have learned in 35-40 years. My step father was a master carpenter and what little he shared with me, and then later working in a cabinet shop, I had a 'workable' understanding. But this taught me a lot of remedies to problems I didn't know how to solve.
THANK YOU !
THE best hand plane "troubleshooting" video I have ever watched. Bloody fantastic. Thank you.
This has aged well. Good practical info. Verging into plane OCD, which really is not a bad thing 😄 Thanks!
Video really helped me figure out how to assemble my late grandfathers planes 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video
Whatever he puts out is never boring , what a great vid
This information so important and very detailed. This definitely helped me solve my issues. Every new woodworker should watch this video.
Thank you SO MUCH for your wealth of information! As a new woodworker, your advice gives me more confidence in being able to correct any problem I will have with my hand planes.
This was great! The part where the secondary bevel was too steep is exactly what fixed my problem!
You can search half an eternity to find a video like that. Few of the most common issues every newbie runs into, when starting to plane.
I have solved a lot of my problems by running the plane on a bar of paraffin right after sharpening. This traps the wax where wood particles would normally get trapped- it also keeps oxidation from happening and keeps the shavings running smoothly out of the mouth.
Just a really quick run over some clear paraffin and clear any stuck wax that will clog the mouth. Try it- I’m sure I’m not the first to do this but I haven’t seen anyone else do this except on the sole. The blade and breaker need it too
Absolutely a great video, thanks. This helps greatly. Very knowledgable. I’m not a big plane user but just kinda started with planes. Got a Woodriver #3,4,5,6 and was working with the #4 Jack plane. Got iron sharp enough to shave with with a mirror polished 25 degree grind and it’s like what’s going on here, I can’t make any sharper lol. Found the chip breaker screw loose and floating in the breeze 🤣🤣🤣 so your explanation really helps to understand
When I compared my 3 Stanley planes -No 4 No 4 1/2 and No 5 All good pre war models , I found that they all had the lateral adjuster "dimple "or rivet pressing up on the cap iron. This was creating friction when I wanted to adjust the lateral lever. So by inserting some thin cardboard (nice and oily ) between blade and cap iron I now have a smooth adjuster and don`t start moving the lever cap screw which is totally innocent .
First 2 minutes and I know this was what I needed to know. Thank you for this!
On a Spear and Jackson No 4 it has a narrow mouth and I fitted a 2 part Stay Set cap iron . There is no frog adjuster screw at the back . It just has the 2 clamping screws with some room for movement . Just for fun I took out the front section of the cap iron and put the lever cap on with the screw wound in a bit. What a nice sense of freedom to use it like an old wood plane .No clogging or fussing with a chip breaker .A good hefty Carpenter setting .
A Hock blade and (especially) chip breaker transformed my old WW2 era Stanley 4 1/2 into a fine tool.
Had to flatten the sole a bunch and back bevel the mouth opening to get it to take really fine shavings.
My next plane purchase will be a LN 5 1/2
I like that the thumbnail is the portion where he says "this is what you DON'T do"
Thank you for using cheap #4 for the demo! Very encouraging. :)
Thank you sir.. I should have watched this before spend 3 months to get plane work.
Thanks, as I get more hand planes, I needed this tutorial.
I absolutely needed this lesson! Thank you!
I have watched a couple of vids of Roy Underhill with him and found him to be very informative. Of course it takes someone that knows something really well to make it sound simple. First clue. Im on this guy like a dog. There is always so much to learn. Best part he is not an old fart and likely to leave us soon....,
Very well explained. Lots of help.
Excellent video, excellent teacher.
Such great and wonderful info,.,.,.,. please tell me this will not be deleted ????
Amazing video. Great voice too
Was not expecting Eric Clapton to be so much into woodworking
She don’t lie
Where can I find the other videos in this series? He alluded to at least 2 others.
A Type 11? Sweet!
Great stuff here, thanks Chris!
Very good and usefulninformation for me as beginer.
that ice cream metaphor is perfect
What if your plane sole falls between the high spots. Wouldn't you need to start with a longer plane?
This was very helpful, thank you!
Very in-depth thank you for sharing.
Great video. Learned quite a bit.
Is this an excerpt from his "Handplane Basics" DVD?
I didn't hear you mention bevel orientation...up or down?
Thanks Chris.
Outstanding!
Where can I get this full course or DVD?
One of the biggest things I've seen with the uninitiated is, putting the iron and chip breaker together wrong. Most often with the iron bevel up. And the other thing is the chip breaker too far away from the edge.
Thank you Sir 🎉
I'm a retired Carpenter from Liverpool UK and have never seen any of these Stanley planes, only "Made in England "
Chris keeps saying "as we talked about before". Are there any links to the THAT video?
how about checking the tail end of the plane with the feeler gauge while you are holding the the straight edge to the mouth of the plane. 4:41
What DVD was this from? Thanks!
Great lesson, thanks for sharing it.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice tips :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Hey is that a Hock blade and chip breaker you are using there? The blade has those nice swirl marks from a Blanchard grinder? Original blades work pretty good but the metallurgy on the new ones is better.
Would you know the reason why my plane isn't cutting full shavings? Its only cutting in the center of the blade. I tune it up pretty good that know of, the sole seems to be pretty flat, the blade is sharp, im getting good thin shavings just not full shavings, the blade is straight and true, everything is tighten down, could i get some help about this problem
if the blade is straight, its probably the sole is dished some, I would check that and flatten it.
When you transcribed that German book into English you sell, did you translate it word for word or did you edit/redact any of the wording?
I’m interested in the original content only with no wording or sentences changed to make as one might say, “more fluent”
Changing any wording destroys the entire meaning,
I like the original so I can decide on my own what the original author is saying.
Thanks
Superb information!
Should tighten the chip breaker (cap iron) screw against the bench, not your hand. If you slip, you get a screwdriver into the palm of your hand - it hurts, from experience.
I like a shorter screwdriver because I never use the lever cap... never. ;)
I had a problem when I bought a new iron for an old No. 6 and the throat wasn't open enough for the blade to fit and allow shavings to move above the iron.
I should add that the new Hock (sp?) iron was a lot thicker than the original stanley iron. I finally decided that if I wanted to use that iron, I would have to open the throat. The throat was a lot narrower than any other I had ever seen. I carefully filed it and the plane works great now.
Or you move your frog back, that's why its adjustable. You don't otherwise have to play with frogs much.
@@ugaladh Hello ugaladh. No, the blade wouldn't fit, and moving the frog only made it not fit in another spot. I eventually filed out the throat and it's working great the past few years.
Thanks for the video. Iam completely new to planes. I bought a used craftsman 107 14" . I can not get the blade to retract inside enough to not take a shaving. My frog is completely flush. I assemble the plane, it adjusts out, and almost... almost back in fully, but still is protruding about 1/32" HELP... anyone, I can not figure this out after repeated videos.
Good stuff.
Кстати, про байки, которые травит Лапти! Чтобы это понять, надо понимать в целом про чеченцев! Чеченцы, как и многие кавказцы, склонны к преувеличениям, гиперболам, или, проще говоря, к брехне! Я много там провели времени, и во время обеих войн. и до, и после!
Помню, как в 1989 г, приехали по делам в Грозный. Встречает нас местный мент, на "мерседесе"! Машина была подержанной, но для того времени, круть невероятная! Мы были впечатлены, а вечером он нас пригласил в гости, в свой недостроенный дом. И там, тоже был легкий шок! Нищета, земляной пол, чумазые и босые дети! Один из наших, и говорит: - Ему бы продать свой "мерс", и достроить дом, купить детям одежды!? И тут, один из чеченцев, нам все объяснил: - Поймите, ему, на его должность в ментовке, и на этот "мерс", всем родом скидывались, чтобы выглядел на людях крутым, а дети потерпят!
Позже, я много раз убеждался, как могли прихвастнуть - Дудаев, Басаев, тот же Закаев! Последний, будучи актером, до сих пор фантазирует в украинских пабликах)) С чем все это связано? Думаю, с какими то комплексами, которые свойственны представителям небольших этносов! Наблюдать за этим забавно, это из области психологии, пока это не касается серьезных вещей))😀
Hi, great video. I heard that a little wax on the soul of the plane can help a lot. Do you agree and if so what kind of wax? Cheers
Dan The Chippie beeswax
The question I have about a plane not cutting is when I am trying to plane very hard woods like osage orange or olivewood. How do I get the plane to bite into woods that are very dense and have a high janka number.
Thicker blade, or tighter chipbreaker, and sharp sharp sharp.
How to flush the front edge of the chip breaker with the plane blade at interface.
I am collecting shavings under the chip breaker. Stanley #4 bench plane.
You have to sand it. Check out Sellers' video on how to restore the bench plane or Mat Estlea's on how to set one up. They both cover it in detail. I too had that problem repeatedly until I sanded them flush
I have the same problems with my planes it's very annoying .
pls advise ? 🤔
Your chip breaker is not sitting flush against the plane iron.
You need to use sandpaper or a sharpening stone and flatten your chip breaker so that when you place it against the plane you can see no light between the two mating surfaces. The problem you are having I assume is a small gap between and the wood shaving is forced into that gap.
Which DVD did this come from?
This video comes from "Super-tune a handplane" www.shopwoodworking.com/super-tune-a-handplane
Michaël PETRE Do you Know if it have subtitles ( in English) (or better in Spanish) Thanks.
Hi Miguel, unfortunately there's no subtitles.
Michaël PETRE Thank you Michaël
It's from www.shopwoodworking.com/super-tune-a-handplane. One of a few great hand tool videos from Chris!
That is a beautiful voice
This was very good, but I'm still getting hard bites and skips even on soft woods.
If anyone wants to chime in, feel welcome to do so.
1.Usually its the chipbreaker not aligned to the blade proper.
2. Your blade may be protruding too far.
3. The mouth might be too closed.
4. Your plane iron may not be at the right angle. (Different woods require different 'bite')
how to plane soft and knotty pine - that's a pain!!!
Isn’t your bench too low?
I`ve found that usually it`s my stance & not holding it right
thank you for hti s!!!
a lot of mis information out there,.
Loose dogs, tight frogs and flat feet! Oi!
👍🏻
Chris's "Brother-in Law" is a "know it all, jerk". LOL
Chris, love ya man. Great video! But it’s a cap iron, not a chip breaker. Check the descriptions on the original Bailey patents.
la Casa de Papel
My blade is razor sharp but I can't plane worth a SSSS 🤷🏻♂️
Solution: 100% wooden plane
Surely you'd put that wood in a vice though?
Bench dog(?)
The voice is so over-compressed it is very off-putting to listen to. Other than that - great video.
I'm unsure of the meaning of that term "over-compressed" ...but I really like his voice, nice and distinct, crisp enunciation, etc. In fact I'd rate it about the best I've found out in You Tube land. He does throw in some extraneous, what I'd call rolling pauses, e.g. "...you knows", "...and uhs", but you have to search long and hard to find someone who doesn't ...other than among the professional speakers ranks.
Good information, bad camera work.
SCORCHED audio.
to much drama here....
I'm really sure you can build it yourself. I did this 2 weeks ago thanks to the Woodglut plans.