We welded my ford rear and it still works fine. 44 inch Mudders both turn and never a problem. Saved me from buying a locker. Why not. My family has had over 1000 HP engines for these applications and the rear end works just fine. Never a problem when done properly. Since the 1970s dad used to do this
He should have welded the gears to the carrier also all the stress is going to be on the pin now an when that goes its all going to blow up carrier and all of he welds the gears to the carrier it will make it stronger cause then the whole thing it talking the force instead a ³/⁴ rod
Biggest issue is how TF u getting the c clips for the axles back in? I mean this particular car might not have them but a lot of diffs do so the way he did it means no c clips no crossing going back in
Well done, great video. Always thought the process wasnt reliable, so i went with a locker instead. I turn 35" mud tires with some h.p. behind it. But if I get a chance, I'd like to try your method. Looks very promising. Once again, great video.
211 amps is about 28 volts which i use for vertical up welding with a weave pattern which i find would be still abit cold. I'd recommend at least 30 volts for better fusion with at least a 60 degree preheat. I would also after welding, wrap it up in a fire blanket to slow the cooling down as fast cooling could cause cracking due to weld and parent metals becoming brittle. If your method works, so be it.
I always tape up the bearings and ring gear surface with multi layers of masking tape to keep from having hot metal sparks land there and cause a surface defect.
Thanks man I knew it needed to be hot before welding but I didn't know it had to be that hot so thanks. 350 degrees and balls out on the welder. Good video thanks.
Excellent example to spool diff. Looked at another of videos of this topic. I think yours was the best example. Liked the plate idea. Good work. Thanks
Excellence !!! and thank you sir !!! i will make my friend watch this 20 times, before he starts LOL because he welds, but never done a diff before....
I live in australia and welded my diff on my commodore with a 110 amp welder lol works fine and havent had an issue, its been on my car for 3 years, i have 3:08 diff gears
You know it’s funny because I welded my diff the first time with a harbor freight welder and not enough heat and it did exactly what you said 😂. Had to buy a new one and total was 1000!! For all new seals and ring and pinion. Im doing it with a miller this time
Great video spent ages looking for a video on this and most just waffled on about other stuff and didn't even show or explain what they're doing. Great stuff 👍
Good job on it definitely doing mine soon if you were close I'd just pay you to do it but I'm in Tennessee, but yeah great job awesome vid I learned alot.
Ok, so you only plate the one side correct? I was thinking this exact thing and began to wonder how many people actually weld a plate on crap sides.... lol
I swear no one reads the comments. I’ll make a vid about it eventually but like I said in probably 10 of the comments below, if it’s a c clip axle, you only plate one side. 😉
This might be a stupid question. I have a 235 amp arc welder. What rod would you think I should use. I'm new to welding and seen ppl say 7018 or 6011. The diff I'm welding is from an 03 v6 mustang.
@@MorFabIndustries Thank you very much for replying. I am excited to take on the project and slowly build out my car. Your video was great and I appreciate the information and help you have given to us all.
I've heard a lot of people say that most of the welded diffs that they have seen break are ones with plates in, but how is that possible if the plate is supposed to make it stronger?
I cut a thin sheet of steel that looks like a C ... it covers the ring gear when welding that side. Anti splatter spray it also. This is how i do it while still in the axle house.
Unfortunately if the diff breaks with that plate in there it will DESTROY the housing for the diff. Just happened to me. The housing for the diff can cost as much as the diff itself. Just a forewarning
@@landofcivilization7894 it will go sideways if u dont have traction, like always because 100% lock and maybe broke few axels depends how u abuse it, plus it will eat your tires pretty quick.
What type of shop do you run, I’ve literally been calling fabrication shops in my town and they have no clue what I’m talking about when I ask if they can weld a diff
So I have a question. If you put those plates to help strengthen everything how do you secure or ever pull your axles out again? No access to the c clips. At least in my instance I wouldn't be able to put plates. I don't know bout that diff you welded how those axle shafts lock in......
Those bearings could possibly be toasted also. Good practice is too replace them or remove them so you do get too much heat into them. You might have a strong welded diff but it will be noisey 💁♂️
Did you flux core that or .030 or .035? Just wondering as I have to do one in a Dakota and I have a mig but wasn't sure which wire to use, maybe flux core cux it gets hotter? But throws more splatter idk
not sure about all that heat into the bearings ?? I mist water over mine to slowly slowly suck the heat out and then do the other side , I dont use plates , I cut the pivot pin centre section out , pencil point them on all 4 ends , put back in and you have a see through centre , weld up the pencil points inside and outside of carrier and weld up the corners of the teeth , slowly slowly misting water to keep temp out of bngs . repeat to other side , dressing the weld down a bit to refit ring gear may be needed !! no drama -a flap wheel will do this just fine , now you have a diff if you break an axle just take both out and with no pin in the centre you tap the broken bit out with a long and strong enough rod , 40 years doing this with great success , but now you can buy mini for stuff all and full spools for a bit more , but for the DIY the above system works fine .
For Jeep... that plate goes on one side only. When you're done you have to take the center pin out so you can get the clips on the shafts. REMEMBER PLATE ON ONE SIDE ONLY
There is a large ring gear that attaches on the left of the carrier he is welding. The drive shaft would attach to the pinion gear with a yoke the pinion turns the large ring gear.
I blew the spider gears on my first car('68 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 455) doing 60 down the highway. Too many one wheel peels I guess. I welded the side gears to the carrier with a 110 welder, bc it's all I had access to. No spider gears at all haha they were gone. It would randomly break one side, and the car would do endless burnouts. I could spin the tire at 60mph because it was basically direct drive from the ring gear to one axle. Luckily the GP rear end had bolt in axles from the factory(no junk c clips which would have tossed an axle). I eventually used a friend's 220 welder and that held up for years until I sold the car. I never should have sold that car
You can but not a good idea. When you turn it will drag the outside tire. It's also very hard on the diff running on blacktop probably would not last too long
Having a C clip axle, the plates can't be used. Also, why didn't you weld the gears to the side/carrier themselves? That's where alot of strength is and only time I've seen Lincoln lockers fail, is when only the gears themselves were welded! Might work for small tire, low HP drift cars, but offroad, this might last a trail or long enough to get ya deep into a trail and then failure. I guess whatever works for for certain applications!
There it is. The most clear video you need to watch on TH-cam about welding diffs.
Nice one fella 👌
We welded my ford rear and it still works fine. 44 inch Mudders both turn and never a problem. Saved me from buying a locker. Why not. My family has had over 1000 HP engines for these applications and the rear end works just fine. Never a problem when done properly. Since the 1970s dad used to do this
How you weld it to hold 1000 HP?
The only problem i'm having now is my volvo smoking tires :P Thanks for the great tutourial man!
better than just the one burning!
Finally, somebody that knows what they're doing lol
For the most part. I would welded a series of passes covering the whole plate and essentially doing a "2 over" pass. Just for extra insurance.
He should have welded the gears to the carrier also all the stress is going to be on the pin now an when that goes its all going to blow up carrier and all of he welds the gears to the carrier it will make it stronger cause then the whole thing it talking the force instead a ³/⁴ rod
@@bustedwrenchgarage2051 carrier is made of cast iron Imbecile 😂
Biggest issue is how TF u getting the c clips for the axles back in? I mean this particular car might not have them but a lot of diffs do so the way he did it means no c clips no crossing going back in
Thank you so much.
The no bullshit guide I wanted 👍🏻
The plates are definitely the way to it.
Well done, great video. Always thought the process wasnt reliable, so i went with a locker instead. I turn 35" mud tires with some h.p. behind it. But if I get a chance, I'd like to try your method. Looks very promising. Once again, great video.
Excellent explanation and detail. That's the cutest diff I've ever seen, btw lol.
LOL! Did you see how the welding wire from the mig was able to push it out of the way? It's so tiny.
Finally An Old School Deal That was done in Early 50'' s to Late 60' s!! Love it man ! You got it Right!! State of the ART!
211 amps is about 28 volts which i use for vertical up welding with a weave pattern which i find would be still abit cold. I'd recommend at least 30 volts for better fusion with at least a 60 degree preheat. I would also after welding, wrap it up in a fire blanket to slow the cooling down as fast cooling could cause cracking due to weld and parent metals becoming brittle. If your method works, so be it.
Ya, I was wondering about getting underbead cracks for that very reason
I always tape up the bearings and ring gear surface with multi layers of masking tape to keep from having hot metal sparks land there and cause a surface defect.
Thanks man I knew it needed to be hot before welding but I didn't know it had to be that hot so thanks. 350 degrees and balls out on the welder. Good video thanks.
Excellent example to spool diff. Looked at another of videos of this topic. I think yours was the best example. Liked the plate idea. Good work. Thanks
Excellence !!! and thank you sir !!! i will make my friend watch this 20 times, before he starts LOL because he welds, but never done a diff before....
2 years later and I’m that “friend” watching this video 😂😂
Perfect video with important details I could see me forgetting or doing wrong. Good to know.
I’ve gotta say your a amazing welder that sizzling bacon sound is golden and very consistent
Preheat , and the plate idea is really a good idea , thank you
I live in australia and welded my diff on my commodore with a 110 amp welder lol works fine and havent had an issue, its been on my car for 3 years, i have 3:08 diff gears
@A. Melbs Weldies have gotten me picked up twice, defected once. If ya worried about cops just invest in an LSD or a mini spool. Stronger anyway
You know it’s funny because I welded my diff the first time with a harbor freight welder and not enough heat and it did exactly what you said 😂. Had to buy a new one and total was 1000!! For all new seals and ring and pinion. Im doing it with a miller this time
Great video spent ages looking for a video on this and most just waffled on about other stuff and didn't even show or explain what they're doing. Great stuff 👍
Can this be done without removing the differential
Good job on it definitely doing mine soon if you were close I'd just pay you to do it but I'm in Tennessee, but yeah great job awesome vid I learned alot.
All good tips ... Just be sure not to plate both sides of you need to install c clips to hold your axles in place lol
Lol yeah I've seen that done before. I've never done it though luckily!
Ok, so you only plate the one side correct? I was thinking this exact thing and began to wonder how many people actually weld a plate on crap sides.... lol
Just some advice I would definitely cover up the bearings as well from slag👍🏻
Ok,but one thing,with them plates,how you suposed to keep the axle in the carrier when you cant get the clips on ends of axles
I swear no one reads the comments. I’ll make a vid about it eventually but like I said in probably 10 of the comments below, if it’s a c clip axle, you only plate one side. 😉
@@MorFabIndustries ok,no i didnt read any of the comments.but plate 1 side,i can see that
@@briancburleson8790 👍🏻
I've always been against welding the rear end but that plate is a good idea.
Oh really? So how do you get the c clips in with the plates in the way.....uhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh😂🤣yeah no
@@thehulkamaniabrother2.089 I was thinking the same thing 😂 but it’s race car stuff 🤷🏽♂️
2 years later I'm wondering the same thing
You only plate 1 side, then on the other side weld the corners and I personally weld the gears to the carrier itself
@@thehulkamaniabrother2.089uh, you weld the plate on one side and tack the gears on the opposite side. Ummm, yea….
Thanks for this video.Help me a lot,on my old Chevy C10 Thanks again.
We had some last longer then others but they did break at 180 to 400 hp, and going up hills loaded them too.
This might be a stupid question. I have a 235 amp arc welder. What rod would you think I should use. I'm new to welding and seen ppl say 7018 or 6011. The diff I'm welding is from an 03 v6 mustang.
Clean it really well, preheat, and use 7018 hot.
@@MorFabIndustries Thank you very much for replying. I am excited to take on the project and slowly build out my car. Your video was great and I appreciate the information and help you have given to us all.
I've heard a lot of people say that most of the welded diffs that they have seen break are ones with plates in, but how is that possible if the plate is supposed to make it stronger?
Poor weld quality and not enough heat.
What should I do if after welding the diff using plates the car shakes after 60mph?
Hi yes seem to be really solid. But how Do you put back the c clip that hold the axle?
dont forget if got c clips you leave one side open to get them and out
So if I got c clips I can still take the center out, get it welded and as long as one side is open, still get the axles back in?
Thanks for the great explanation! Looks like I will be trying that!
How much should someone pay to have this done ?
Where is your shop ?
Great video
I cut a thin sheet of steel that looks like a C ... it covers the ring gear when welding that side.
Anti splatter spray it also.
This is how i do it while still in the axle house.
I have a 93 ford ranger with limited slip can it be lock welded and could a stick be used.
Don't forget about the axel retainer 👀
Is that car door in the background from an e39?
Looks so familiar.
Andreas D it is!
I am welding my aristo diff TOMORROW!
Unfortunately if the diff breaks with that plate in there it will DESTROY the housing for the diff. Just happened to me. The housing for the diff can cost as much as the diff itself. Just a forewarning
Pinocchio.
Thanks for the video i could only watch half of it as it gave me arc eye 😎
Do you have some sort of diagram of like what each and every single parts are so we know exactly what to weld and what not to weld?
Okay but what is going to hold your axels in now that we welded a plate in the location that our C clips are inserted?
In the video somewhere I said if it has c clips, you can only plate one side. 😉
@@MorFabIndustries Okay that is what I'll do thank you I must have just over heard that sentence🤝
My old welded diff looked like rats nest compared to those welds😂 it lasted atleast 4 owners tho.
Is it safe on high speed?
@@landofcivilization7894 well depends are u going straight :D
@@maxx9941
I will drift and drag but I am afraid on high speed something happens
@@landofcivilization7894 it will go sideways if u dont have traction, like always because 100% lock and maybe broke few axels depends how u abuse it, plus it will eat your tires pretty quick.
@@maxx9941
Well in that case better If I get an LSD
really want to weld my porsche 718 open diff, thanks for the video! very informative
This might be a dumb question, but If u weld the spiders together and to the plates, how do u install the clips onto the end of the axles?..thanks...
On a c-clip axle you only plate one side.
weld spatter on bearings!!!!!! big no no, cover the bearings, Tig weld if you can.
The customer replaced the bearings with new ones. Good info for everyone though! Thank you.
How did you put your keys in that hold your axles in with that pate there
What type of shop do you run, I’ve literally been calling fabrication shops in my town and they have no clue what I’m talking about when I ask if they can weld a diff
I'm an everything shop. General maint, fabrication, machining, I do it all.
Hopefully those bearings didn’t get splatter on them or get replaced. Good video
What happens if an axle snaps, Is there an easy way to replace it or does it just have to get cut out?
Best video i could come across
Could i weld my half ton truck rear differential?
Back Country69 yes
Will you have too get new bearings where they got so hot
What is your method for heating up that differential?
So I have a question. If you put those plates to help strengthen everything how do you secure or ever pull your axles out again? No access to the c clips. At least in my instance I wouldn't be able to put plates. I don't know bout that diff you welded how those axle shafts lock in......
so with fwd, just tack nuts too spider gears? and just filler up with weld..?
Those bearings could possibly be toasted also. Good practice is too replace them or remove them so you do get too much heat into them. You might have a strong welded diff but it will be noisey 💁♂️
The customer replaced all of the bearings as well as the ring and pinion.
Yes, careful with the ring gear. But the bearings likes slag ;)
and they make good ground
What about the bearings and ring gear serfice should it be covered.
Great vid and info!🙌🏽🙌🏽
How about if you made a plexi glass box too House the go Pro to get a better close-up shots just an idea keep up the good work 😎👊🏽
Thats a great idea!
So this can only be done with C Clip eliminators?
@@nathanhill404 no. Just leave one side not plated so you can get the c clips out.
What welding rods use to weld ?
😂😂😂😂
Did you flux core that or .030 or .035? Just wondering as I have to do one in a Dakota and I have a mig but wasn't sure which wire to use, maybe flux core cux it gets hotter? But throws more splatter idk
It was non flux core. Flux core throws a TON of slag. Not fun.
if you are putting those plates in how do you put the c-clips in??????
Only plate one side on c clip axles 😉
Good info and instruction, thank you.
not sure about all that heat into the bearings ?? I mist water over mine to slowly slowly suck the heat out and then do the other side , I dont use plates , I cut the pivot pin centre section out , pencil point them on all 4 ends , put back in and you have a see through centre , weld up the pencil points inside and outside of carrier and weld up the corners of the teeth , slowly slowly misting water to keep temp out of bngs . repeat to other side , dressing the weld down a bit to refit ring gear may be needed !! no drama -a flap wheel will do this just fine , now you have a diff if you break an axle just take both out and with no pin in the centre you tap the broken bit out with a long and strong enough rod , 40 years doing this with great success , but now you can buy mini for stuff all and full spools for a bit more , but for the DIY the above system works fine .
I was getting stuck on wet grass I Lincoln locked I always plate the gears before Lincoln locking
I've never had one break.
Good job and very useful video!
Do you not need to put the c clip back in? Or does that diff not use one?
Just curious how ya gonna pull the axle shafts and c clips now?
Only plated one side 😉
@@MorFabIndustries fair enough, mine only removes from one side the other side doesn't have access to the clips. Thanks for the reply buddy.
What about C-clip retained axles? like GM's
If they are c-clip retained then you only install a plate on one side. Youll still have access to the clips and have at least one supporting plate.
And Chrysler's
I appreciate the info. Learned A LOT!
Nice, I wish you could weld one for my 01 Suburban for off reading 📚
For Jeep... that plate goes on one side only. When you're done you have to take the center pin out so you can get the clips on the shafts. REMEMBER PLATE ON ONE SIDE ONLY
How are you supposed to put the c clips in with those plates in the way
Only plate one side on c-clip axles.
Also you don't want any splatter on the splines , it will cause your axles not to go in then you'll have to do a bunch of de-burring.....
A dumb question I know, but where does the drive haft connect to the diff once it’s welded ? Is there a larger outer gear ?
There is a large ring gear that attaches on the left of the carrier he is welding. The drive shaft would attach to the pinion gear with a yoke the pinion turns the large ring gear.
What to do of I have a C clip diff? Just do not weld the plate? Thank you!
Just plate 1x side
If anyone is wondering there is a company called Rise Fab Shop that makes premade R200 weld in plates for $12
Thanks alot for your great video.👍
Greetings from Pakistan 🇵🇰
Great video! Thank you!
I blew the spider gears on my first car('68 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 455) doing 60 down the highway. Too many one wheel peels I guess. I welded the side gears to the carrier with a 110 welder, bc it's all I had access to. No spider gears at all haha they were gone. It would randomly break one side, and the car would do endless burnouts. I could spin the tire at 60mph because it was basically direct drive from the ring gear to one axle. Luckily the GP rear end had bolt in axles from the factory(no junk c clips which would have tossed an axle). I eventually used a friend's 220 welder and that held up for years until I sold the car. I never should have sold that car
Couldn’t you just use a bigger plate of metal so it wouldn’t drop into that space to guarantee it’ll clear the axle?
And your axle lock clips??
What an oxymoron title!!!! lol. I love it 👍👍👍
Do you weld diffs for people and how much?
How thick of plate did you use? It would be for a Toyota
Hey was this welded with flux core or hardwire?
Hard wire
can i daily a welded diff? really reallyyyy debating on getting it done
Yes
You can but not a good idea. When you turn it will drag the outside tire. It's also very hard on the diff running on blacktop probably would not last too long
My daily 3.15 welded has lasted me 3 years so far and I’m planning on retiring for a 3.91 welded.
Did you use ER 70-6 wire on this?
This is a badass channel....
Having a C clip axle, the plates can't be used. Also, why didn't you weld the gears to the side/carrier themselves? That's where alot of strength is and only time I've seen Lincoln lockers fail, is when only the gears themselves were welded!
Might work for small tire, low HP drift cars, but offroad, this might last a trail or long enough to get ya deep into a trail and then failure. I guess whatever works for for certain applications!
How about balancing?
What size are those plates?
What kind of metal did u use for the welded diff???
Thanks in advance.
1/4" steel bar stock
Appreciate it boss man thank you!😎👌
What if you have a c-clip rear axle
So what makes both axles spin if they're not connected together in the center and the ring gear is only connected to one side?
The small gears on the sides have splines in the center of them, and the axles have splines that fit into them.
What other material to use to weld if I don’t have mig
Anyone got any recommendations on plate thickness, like is 3/16s good?
I use 1/4”