Looks great so far. Even if it’s not 100% perfect it will be all your own work and not a payed for job. Have faith in yourself. Just look back at when the project started and how far you have come
It is always disheartening taking paper to fresh paint but it is worth it in the end. You could have started with a lower grit (I would suggest nothing below 1200) but that isn't a problem. It just takes more effort starting with 2000. A cheap foam disk set for your drill will make rubbing compounding much easier but watch that you don't burn though. Again, keep it wetter than you think that you should! If you have areas where there is still a glitter effect after compounding, just go back to the 2000, then 2500 and compound again until it disappears. An unfortunate place to have to stop, just before it starts to look better!
Cheers Nat, I may have made this harder for myself than necessary due to lack of experience, but I'm feeling confident it will be okay when I'm finished. Hope next week's upload has a more satisfying ending. 😀
@@RyansGarageUK I will put money in the fact that it will. Just go through the process as many time as you need to to get the glitter gone. Better that than try and do it in one go and burn through. Don't be seduced by looking at the paintwork with water on it. It will always look good. Dry it before looking as dry paint holds no secrets!
Hi thank you I hope you are not disappointed with the ultimate result. Been keeping an eye on your progress on Facebook, hope you get yours all up and running again soon. Cheers Ryan
You needed to light sand after each layer. Ive been custom painting for over 40 years, and am still learning. You never stop learning. Keep it up fella
I am sure this will end up great! 👍 I think the reason you did not get it perfectly glossy is because you where a bit careful when you put on the layers of paint. Especially the last layer needs to be completely "wet". You might have moved the spray paint (box) a bit fast, so instead of one last wet glossy layer you did several thin passes and then you get a lot of "fog" landing on top that gives a more matte surface. The danger is of course that the paint will run/drip/sag (not sure what's the best or correct word for it...) if too much paint is added on one layer. I would have tested rubbing, polishing and waxing one of the side panels. If you get it as you want, then it's just to continue on the rest. If you dont get it to your liking, or if the job takes forever, you do have the option to just to put on a new layer of clear coat on top. I would have used 2K clear coat as the top layer. For it to be shiny you need to warm up your garage, I would say 20 degrees celsius (or more). Good luck! 😊
Thank you as always, I'm sure you are correct, and my garage was certainly no where near 20 degrees. Bit I'm still optimistic it will be okay in the end.
Wet and dry takes a lot of practice .first of , use a sponge rubbing block wrapped in the paper , doing it by hand has your finger tips pressing harder than else where , the block makes it even .same goes for polishing unless you have an orbital polishing machine . dont give up . you will learn and get better....i did :-)
Thanks for you encouragement. I will look for a suitable rubbing block for future attempts. And I'm sure I'll get better, if I persist, which I will. 👍🏻
Don't be put off by the tank so far, it's not as bad as you think it might be and nobody in the whole of human history has managed to get their first paint job spot on anyway! If you have that many layers of topcoat on you can probably afford to keep working at the sanding before going for cutting & polish, it is a labour of love though and horribly time consuming, but as a focal point for the bike it's worth the extra effort.
Hi Mr Black, thank you for your constructive comments, that's very much appreciated. I agree the tank will be the main focal point of the bike, so I hope my efforts pay off. 😀
you are not going backwards Ryan, I promise you and over 400 subscribers now so you must be doing something right. I think you may have made more work for yourself by starting on 2000 grit - I'm sure IIRC, Nat starts a lot more coarse than that , maybe 800 or 1000, would have to go and check - mind you, I bet for your first time you were worried about going through the paint if you started more coarse? good content as always, keep going, 1st ride is getting closer. have you started her up again since last time you showed us?
Hi Tim ,thank you for your words of support. I've have ran it since it was shown on video, but not in the last 6 weeks or so, I hope it behaves when I connect the tank and give her fresh fuel. We will see.
@@RyansGarageUK Wasn't sure myself, so I did a bit of googling - looks like the chrome guard is common (and perhaps more desirable), but then the front of the superdream Haynes manual shows a 400N with a plastic guard on it. Mine was a blue (and corrosion and oil) 250N, and while it was a total shed, the previous owner had spent more time taking bits off (like the indicators, as the flasher unit was shot, so it was easier to rip the indicators off than to fix the unit to get it through the MOT) than putting new bits on and getting the colours to match. My guess is a variation either between sub-versions or years.
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Looks great so far. Even if it’s not 100% perfect it will be all your own work and not a payed for job. Have faith in yourself. Just look back at when the project started and how far you have come
Thank you Chris I couldn't agree more. I've totally enjoyed learning many new skills, and there is plenty to still learn.
It is always disheartening taking paper to fresh paint but it is worth it in the end. You could have started with a lower grit (I would suggest nothing below 1200) but that isn't a problem. It just takes more effort starting with 2000.
A cheap foam disk set for your drill will make rubbing compounding much easier but watch that you don't burn though. Again, keep it wetter than you think that you should!
If you have areas where there is still a glitter effect after compounding, just go back to the 2000, then 2500 and compound again until it disappears.
An unfortunate place to have to stop, just before it starts to look better!
Cheers Nat, I may have made this harder for myself than necessary due to lack of experience, but I'm feeling confident it will be okay when I'm finished. Hope next week's upload has a more satisfying ending. 😀
@@RyansGarageUK I will put money in the fact that it will. Just go through the process as many time as you need to to get the glitter gone. Better that than try and do it in one go and burn through.
Don't be seduced by looking at the paintwork with water on it. It will always look good. Dry it before looking as dry paint holds no secrets!
It always great to experiment looking forward to how it looks after the cut and buff. Your doing a super job.
Hi thank you I hope you are not disappointed with the ultimate result. Been keeping an eye on your progress on Facebook, hope you get yours all up and running again soon. Cheers Ryan
@@RyansGarageUK Should be perfect and I admire you honest efforts to do it all yourself. That's the key thing
You needed to light sand after each layer. Ive been custom painting for over 40 years, and am still learning. You never stop learning. Keep it up fella
Thanks Andrew, i was scared to damage the inital coats, but when i next paint something, I'll be far more confident. 🙂
@@RyansGarageUK lol.. how do you think I feel when its not my bike.. its OK if its your own. As you can re do it as many times as you need.
Just keep going mate you're doing great job and you'll get there in the end
Thank you Peter. I do hope so.
I am sure this will end up great! 👍 I think the reason you did not get it perfectly glossy is because you where a bit careful when you put on the layers of paint. Especially the last layer needs to be completely "wet". You might have moved the spray paint (box) a bit fast, so instead of one last wet glossy layer you did several thin passes and then you get a lot of "fog" landing on top that gives a more matte surface. The danger is of course that the paint will run/drip/sag (not sure what's the best or correct word for it...) if too much paint is added on one layer.
I would have tested rubbing, polishing and waxing one of the side panels. If you get it as you want, then it's just to continue on the rest. If you dont get it to your liking, or if the job takes forever, you do have the option to just to put on a new layer of clear coat on top. I would have used 2K clear coat as the top layer. For it to be shiny you need to warm up your garage, I would say 20 degrees celsius (or more).
Good luck! 😊
Thank you as always, I'm sure you are correct, and my garage was certainly no where near 20 degrees. Bit I'm still optimistic it will be okay in the end.
👍👍👍
Thank you.
Wet and dry takes a lot of practice .first of , use a sponge rubbing block wrapped in the paper , doing it by hand has your finger tips pressing harder than else where , the block makes it even .same goes for polishing unless you have an orbital polishing machine . dont give up . you will learn and get better....i did :-)
Thanks for you encouragement. I will look for a suitable rubbing block for future attempts. And I'm sure I'll get better, if I persist, which I will. 👍🏻
Your doing fine Ryan ,it's that old saying(practice makes perfect)🤔
Thanks Derek, I think I need plenty of more practice.. 😀😀 but it's getting better now.
@@RyansGarageUK only if you enjoy 👍
Don't be put off by the tank so far, it's not as bad as you think it might be and nobody in the whole of human history has managed to get their first paint job spot on anyway! If you have that many layers of topcoat on you can probably afford to keep working at the sanding before going for cutting & polish, it is a labour of love though and horribly time consuming, but as a focal point for the bike it's worth the extra effort.
Hi Mr Black, thank you for your constructive comments, that's very much appreciated. I agree the tank will be the main focal point of the bike, so I hope my efforts pay off. 😀
you are not going backwards Ryan, I promise you and over 400 subscribers now so you must be doing something right. I think you may have made more work for yourself by starting on 2000 grit - I'm sure IIRC, Nat starts a lot more coarse than that , maybe 800 or 1000, would have to go and check - mind you, I bet for your first time you were worried about going through the paint if you started more coarse? good content as always, keep going, 1st ride is getting closer. have you started her up again since last time you showed us?
Hi Tim ,thank you for your words of support. I've have ran it since it was shown on video, but not in the last 6 weeks or so, I hope it behaves when I connect the tank and give her fresh fuel. We will see.
Are you sure that mudguard isn't original? My old crappy superdream had one like that.
Hi Michael, I'm honestly not sure, the pictures I've looked up appear to show the Suoerdeam Deluxe with chrome, but I don't know any more then that.
@@RyansGarageUK The NC model had a plastic mudguard all the rest were chromed metal
@@RyansGarageUK Wasn't sure myself, so I did a bit of googling - looks like the chrome guard is common (and perhaps more desirable), but then the front of the superdream Haynes manual shows a 400N with a plastic guard on it. Mine was a blue (and corrosion and oil) 250N, and while it was a total shed, the previous owner had spent more time taking bits off (like the indicators, as the flasher unit was shot, so it was easier to rip the indicators off than to fix the unit to get it through the MOT) than putting new bits on and getting the colours to match. My guess is a variation either between sub-versions or years.