I just did this repair on my Ram. A few things I did different, I didn't disconnect the fuel line. I disconnected all of the coils and injectors clips. Then after I removed the 8mm bolts I lifted the intake off and set it to the side with the fuel line still connected. I used hose clamp pliers to clamp the coolant line going into the oil cooler. Therefore I didn't lose, or have to drain, any coolant when I pulled the oil cooler up. I changed the cooler and intake gaskets and reinstalled the intake. This may help some. My truck has 151,000 miles and was leaking. The gasket on the factory cooler was flat.
Just ordered the oil filter housing and gaskets using your direct link. Hopefully you get a commission from the sale. Thank you for the video I’ll let you know how it goes.
Can you show us how you reassemble the fuel line connector that sprung out all the o-rings. Just in case it happens to us. Thanks. The fuel leaks a little and may need a solution to replace connector or new o-rings.
Would it be a good idea to replace the coolant with fresh coolant at this time? Also assuming fresh oil. I' going to use the aluminum Doman unit. 2014 Chrysler Town & Country.
You don't need to undo the fuel line, there very brittle and prone to breaking. The parts are hard or impossible to get for repair. Just swing the manifold out of your way.
Going to try this repair this weekend. Any other suggestions? The video seems great. Also, are you a DIYer? How long did it take you if so? The shop is charging 3+ hours of labor. I'm giving it the weekend :)
@@thisdoesfine take your time and don't rush, a vacuum cleaner that you don't mind getting dirty is very helpful. Blow out the holes where the oil cooler bolts down to the block as they will fill with oil. Clean everything really well after because residual oil will still leak down on the driveway, pressure wash after, change the oil before starting engine. Good luck
@@papabits5721 I did this job on my 2014 T&C and i have not bothered to clean the bottom and I see oil still dropping on my garage floor after almost two weeks. The drops seem to show up on the transmission side after an hours or more for some reason. I checked the rear main seal for leak but it is not from there so it must be the residual oil. This tells me the leaked oil got pooled somewhere on the frame or something but I have no idea why it takes such a long time to clear. Do you have any idea?
@@tommason5689 it will seem like its still leaking, check your oil level constantly this will tell you if you have a problem or its just residual oil. You will swear it's still leaking sometimes. Place a piece of clean cardboard underneath the vehicle and see wear it drips from. Keep an Eye on it but its probably ok.
Is it possible that I have a coolant leak underneath or near the oil filter cooler/housing? It appears thats where my gushing leak is coming from. I was thinking of replacing that part. Think thats a good idea and probably where my leak is coming from?
I'll just take a wild guess that you punctured or didn't place back the brake booster hose correctly for the brake light on. And for the over heating I'd guess you have an air bubble or incorrectly tightened the oil cooler assembly and it's leaking.
I have a ticking sound coming pretty sure from oil filter housing ..no oil pressure issues ..the ticking is coming from the center not the valve covers was thinking rocker until i checked the location of the click, How common is this clicking from this pump ? thanks for the help could the click be a intake gasket lower or upper ? 150k 2014 town and country AAA condition
Si tú vehículo consume agua/líquido anticongelante, puede ser esa parte y a mí se me descompuso y se tiraba toda el agua, 750 DLLs partes y trabajo Mar 2022 new Braunfels Tx
@@slsjr1 I have 290k miles on my 2012 Volkswagen routan with the 3.6. I've driven it for the last 160k in 3 years I've owned it. I just pulled mine and replaced the rings. If they're so prone to breaking, why is this one the original part, I have the whole service record from previous owners and this isn't on it, they never touched it. I'm keeping my original. It's as likely as a new one to crack. My dad has a 2011 town and country with 220k and I service that vehicle since new and never had this part leaking oil or coolant. Never touched it. Original part. I've owned probably 6 of these 3.6 pentastar and never had an issue with them.
Khalifa, since this was your first like a year ago, how has it been going since? Have you liked very many other videos since your first like here? Me; I'm a like-whore, almost religiously! 😀
Can not for the life of me understand why an engineer would want to put an oil COOLER on top of an ENGINE. Isnt there someplace cooler, say like by the radiator. No wonder these things fail so much. I replaced mine with an all metal type, Fingers crossed.
I just did this repair on my Ram. A few things I did different, I didn't disconnect the fuel line. I disconnected all of the coils and injectors clips. Then after I removed the 8mm bolts I lifted the intake off and set it to the side with the fuel line still connected. I used hose clamp pliers to clamp the coolant line going into the oil cooler. Therefore I didn't lose, or have to drain, any coolant when I pulled the oil cooler up. I changed the cooler and intake gaskets and reinstalled the intake. This may help some. My truck has 151,000 miles and was leaking. The gasket on the factory cooler was flat.
Thank you..
So I don't need to change coolant? I changed oil. But some videos changed coolant and some didn't mine was still orange so I let it be. Is that bad
I didn't change my coolant and my repair was over a year ago. No issues.@@highlifegoodlife5400
Cannot thank you enough for the video,!!!! Was able to save 800 dollars by doing this myself and this video was the reason why.
Same here the Mech said it was a 800 dollar job. I told my wife i was gonna fix it.
Dormant makes a cast aluminum replacement filter housing & base. Just make sure the new oil pressure & temp sensors are tight!!
Thank you So much! This is exactly what's going on with my 2013 Town and Country!
Man...cannot thank you enough for this video!! PERFECT step by step even with torque specs and pattern!
Thank you, perfect video. I'm losing coolant from the oil cooler. This will help me tackle a job I would never do otherwise
Me too I was wondering where it was coming from bi didn’t know coolant was running through that oil cooler??
So we'll spoken about the details of the job!!! I say two thumbs up for this guy!
Assume new oil filter came with new assembly. Very clear concise video. Hope I never need to do it but not terribly scary. Have a 2014 T&C. Thanks.
Great help in that video. Appreciate the time you put into it.
Thank you for the tips and tricks this was helpful I replaced my gaskets oil cooler spark plugs and coil packs on my 2012 JGC
Most times you can replace the “O” rings on the oil cooler and reinstall it. It works fine.
Just ordered the oil filter housing and gaskets using your direct link. Hopefully you get a commission from the sale. Thank you for the video I’ll let you know how it goes.
Did everything go as planned 🤔?? Just Curious Cause I Have To Replace My Oil Cooler 😮💨
Thank you for explaining everything.
Can you show us how you reassemble the fuel line connector that sprung out all the o-rings. Just in case it happens to us. Thanks. The fuel leaks a little and may need a solution to replace connector or new o-rings.
Don't disconnect the gas just swing intake to the side.
Would it be a good idea to replace the coolant with fresh coolant at this time? Also assuming fresh oil. I' going to use the aluminum Doman unit. 2014 Chrysler Town & Country.
Thank you so much for this video. I’m having this problem with my 2012 Dodge Caravan, can you recommend where to get that oil filter from
You don't need to undo the fuel line, there very brittle and prone to breaking. The parts are hard or impossible to get for repair. Just swing the manifold out of your way.
Going to try this repair this weekend. Any other suggestions? The video seems great. Also, are you a DIYer? How long did it take you if so? The shop is charging 3+ hours of labor. I'm giving it the weekend :)
@@thisdoesfine take your time and don't rush, a vacuum cleaner that you don't mind getting dirty is very helpful. Blow out the holes where the oil cooler bolts down to the block as they will fill with oil. Clean everything really well after because residual oil will still leak down on the driveway, pressure wash after, change the oil before starting engine. Good luck
Do I need to change coolant? Some vids they do some they don't. Mine is still orange is it nessisary?
@@papabits5721 I did this job on my 2014 T&C and i have not bothered to clean the bottom and I see oil still dropping on my garage floor after almost two weeks. The drops seem to show up on the transmission side after an hours or more for some reason. I checked the rear main seal for leak but it is not from there so it must be the residual oil. This tells me the leaked oil got pooled somewhere on the frame or something but I have no idea why it takes such a long time to clear. Do you have any idea?
@@tommason5689 it will seem like its still leaking, check your oil level constantly this will tell you if you have a problem or its just residual oil. You will swear it's still leaking sometimes. Place a piece of clean cardboard underneath the vehicle and see wear it drips from. Keep an Eye on it but its probably ok.
need the 10mm.. Is this some kind of a joke?! that's harder to find than the part!
Great video sir, how many hours approximately it would take to do this job?
great video, thanks so much.
You sure breeze throu those electrical conectors I must have spent a hour getting at them
How many miles you have at the time
Are the 5 Orings under the cooler supposed to be oiled first??
I changed my oil at the same time I did this and I am thinking that I need to add additional oil correct?
Is it possible that I have a coolant leak underneath or near the oil filter cooler/housing? It appears thats where my gushing leak is coming from. I was thinking of replacing that part. Think thats a good idea and probably where my leak is coming from?
Any idea why I hear a clicking noise after I replaced the oil filter housing ?
whats the link to where you bought the replacement part?
Não entendi porque você removeu a tampa do comando de válvulas? Foi feito algum reparo de válvulas ou de velas ou de ignição?
I did everything u said and now the brakes light came on, it’s overheating, and running like crap. I did something wrong
Same here. Car doesn’t want to start. Seems like I’m not getting fuel. Did you find out your issue?
I'll just take a wild guess that you punctured or didn't place back the brake booster hose correctly for the brake light on. And for the over heating I'd guess you have an air bubble or incorrectly tightened the oil cooler assembly and it's leaking.
Question. Can the oil cooler make a whining noise?
I have that problem but my reverse is not moving
I have a ticking sound coming pretty sure from oil filter housing ..no oil pressure issues ..the ticking is coming from the center not the valve covers was thinking rocker until i checked the location of the click, How common is this clicking from this pump ? thanks for the help could the click be a intake gasket lower or upper ? 150k 2014 town and country AAA condition
Its the oil cooler. Ticking is from the lifters. Due to pressure imbalance. I have to replace my oil cooler. 2015 T&C, 196k miles.
@@DaeguDown it was the rockers i replaced them all with new milling rockers easy job and a few days time.
Si tú vehículo consume agua/líquido anticongelante, puede ser esa parte y a mí se me descompuso y se tiraba toda el agua, 750 DLLs partes y trabajo Mar 2022 new Braunfels Tx
Question what happens if you don’t drain the coolant from the radiator and you just remove the cooler
it spills everywhere and makes a mess. did it yesterday that way
Couldn’t you just change the o rings? Or you have to change the whole thing?
You can just change o rings
But ive normally change the hole assembly.
Never change just the o rings, these things are prone to cracking and you will be doing it again very soon!
@@slsjr1 I have 290k miles on my 2012 Volkswagen routan with the 3.6. I've driven it for the last 160k in 3 years I've owned it. I just pulled mine and replaced the rings. If they're so prone to breaking, why is this one the original part, I have the whole service record from previous owners and this isn't on it, they never touched it. I'm keeping my original. It's as likely as a new one to crack. My dad has a 2011 town and country with 220k and I service that vehicle since new and never had this part leaking oil or coolant. Never touched it. Original part. I've owned probably 6 of these 3.6 pentastar and never had an issue with them.
@@chrisevans2278 ok, glad yours are working. Mine was cracked at 63k...
This new cooler will fail just like the original one did. They are made of cheap plastic. Dorman makes an aluminum upgrade that fixes this problem.
I would use a all aluminum one instead of a plastic one
106 inch lbs?
Rated on a smaller torque wrench for more delicate jobs.
Or 9 ft. lbs.
inch lbs., divide by 12. 106 inch lbs. divided by 12 = 8.83333333 ft lbs. (9 ft. lbs.)
My first like
Why would you change the whole cooler when you can get a gasket set for a fraction of the price?
Khalifa, since this was your first like a year ago, how has it been going since? Have you liked very many other videos since your first like here? Me; I'm a like-whore, almost religiously!
😀
Can not for the life of me understand why an engineer would want to put an oil COOLER on top of an ENGINE. Isnt there someplace cooler, say like by the radiator. No wonder these things fail so much. I replaced mine with an all metal type, Fingers crossed.
How did it go?