I had a 1997 model T & C LXi since 2003. Going into 200k, it was passing coolant through the exhaust. Other than that, it was the usual maintenance. I had to sell it in 2020, and I chocked as I saw it leave for the last time. Our kids grew in it trips into Mexico to see beaches volcanoes and pyramids in the summers, the grand canyon, San Francisco and Vegas. I'll never forget my van.
@@NamasteTexas I have 2015. What I don't like is the road noise. Compared to the latest Pacifica, noise cancellers work to minimize noise levels. Even the wife's Ram is super quiet. The rest? Love the mini (6th purchase).
One of the best presenters is this guy at 1A Auto. I suggest ATF service [pan drop and filter] in the mid 80,000 miles range at the latest. Thereafter, 60,000 miles if you keep the van. The oil filter housing problem emanates from overtightening the filter cap. With proper care, these vans are very reliable.
I gotta say as a long time Mopar guy this minivan has made me hate Dodge. Nickle and dime with small crap going wrong with it (if you count the clock spring going out causing the brakes to lock up at random times minor). A local Stealership has not helped matters at all. I will never own another Dodge, they can go to hell.
@@dougschmidt4137 I would suggest 2011 and newer. You get one engine option, the 3.6l pentastar which is a solid motor. Look for the HD brake model, and maintain the transmission as recommended. Overall these vans are great vehicles. Better enjoyed if you possess moderate mechanical abilities no doubt.
My 2014 T&C Limited was purchased with 35K off a lease in 12/15. No major gripes. Replaced spark plugs, serpentine belt, and serviced transmission at 100K. It does everything I want it to do, with minimal fuss. Been to California, been to Arizona, been to Utah, been to Wyoming, been to Maine a couple of times, been to Florida a couple of times, and back and forth to many places. Change the oil & filter, and the other filters (air & cabin) per maintenance schedule, brakes and tires when you need to, and you'll do all right. Now at 160K, hope to keep it goin' for at least another year - maybe two.
Had the issue with the window. Now I’m worried I’ll have the other issues. Had transmission service at around 80k miles. I’m on 108k mikes and love this van. It’s a smooth ride and so practical. Easy to empty the seats to move bigger items.
Exactly. Even a Rolls Royce has issues. 1] Driver seat (electrical) and longevity with the booster support wearing out; 2] the Japanese tranny is plain trash, 2nd T&C and noted the same problems again; 3] suspension shocks need to be replaced under 100k miles, fit and finished on panels, still an issue during this time frame (merger of unequal MB/Chrysler). However, this is my sixth minivan. Why do I love this mini? STOW-n-GO, and it will go 300K miles.
I own one and it has been really solid in its 8 years and 300k+ miles. I have replaced a few parts here and there, but it had two big issues. The first one is that the transmission always has a big thump feeling when it's cold or too hot (it's been that way since it was brand new). And the second one is the TIPM fuse box. The TIPM fuse box grounded the van for about 6 months because it just didn't want to turn on and we didn't know if there was a problem with the fuel pump or the ignition motor. Turns out it was the fuel pump relay that is not serviceable on the TIPM. A brand new one was way too expensive, and the solution was a very simple jumper cable between a couple of fuses. It also kept blowing fuses whenever we tried to adjust the seats, and we solved that with a slightly higher rated fuse. Even though the solutions were simple, it's pretty annoying when you can't use your car for half a year due to a very small electrical malfunction. All in all, it has been pretty solid, specially for how much mileage we put on it.
@@joelporozynski There is a specific part you can buy online to do it safely. They offer three models, one is a simple cable for testing, the other is a little PCB (that is the one I have), and the last one offers a number of options that may or may not be important to you. If you google TIPM fuel pump relay solutions, you can find a number of stores that fabricate and sell them, along with a lot of information of why the problem happens, and how to solve it. In my six month long journey, the van was kind of working for the first three, it just took a while for ignition to happen. After that, the van couldn't turn on at all, and I began my investigation then. I actually found the problem pretty quick after a google search and some testing. I then ordered the part I needed, and FedEx lost it the first time. That was the main problem on why the van was grounded for so long. I got tired of waiting and straight up ordered another one, and that solved it for me. I haven't had any issues since then, and that happened about 3 years ago. www.verticalvisions.com/tipm-plug-in-fuel-pump-power-bypass-test-system-lite.html This is the part I bought, and the instructions I used.
Our '14 Town & Country rolled over 200,000 miles this summer. I recently replaced the oil filter cover, had the timing done by our mechanic, and I'll be replacing the struts and sway bars myself very soon. Buying the parts from 1A of course.
@@Pacmanny14 i did recently in our 2008 4.0l TnC, it was actually a strange situation. i spent a lot of time google searching why id find oil in the plug hole when i pulled the coil off the plug. plugs were in good condition, but the ignition coil on 1 of them was soaked with oil. after some searching i found out at higher mileage the down tubes which are pressed and glued in, tend to lose seal if they are even a tiny bit wobbly. hoping that wasnt the case, we replaced the coil and had the exact same issue about 3000 miles later, same down tube, ruined a new coil. so we got the upper seal kit, and put that in, put in another new coil, and dr0ve it tgat way till it started to have the same issue again P3 code indicating a misfire/no-spark, same cylinder, so i finally relented and did the down tube repair. so i very very carefully extracted the down tube with a set of thin and long needle-nose, gently wiggling it until it came all the way out, it was finger loose at first and could be wiggled easily, but wouldnt fully release. once i got it out, i used a wet/dry vac, amd some brake cleaner to blast the oils away, and suck them away from the spark plug hole. then applied a small amount of full cure (not the Kwik set stuff) JB Weld, once the JB weld was curing with the tube in place we put the plug and all the stuff back in... BEFORE doing that, make sure you dont have excess JB weld near the plug hole or that plug becomes permenant to the engine HA HA. now she runs good, just gotta fix the transmission sticking into limp mode and shes running like new again.
@@Pacmanny14 that was common on the 1st generation Pentastar engines (2011-2013) they had a faulty head & the only real remedy was to replace the head but they did fix this issue on the newer versions (2014-up) supposedly...
Actually the Chrysler town and country was a great mini van I took many trips with my family and my kids with their friends it lasted 234 thousand miles had a fantastic ride great sound system, I totally loved it.
Good to know , it’s 2022, my 2012 hasn’t had any major problems . 10 years ago my evaporated went when I went to Florida but it was covered by an aftermarket warranty. I love my van .
Very reliable, I had 3 of them. Driving à 2009 T&C 4.0l for 6 years, just minors things! And hauling a 24ft Travel Trailer with minors upgrade (extra trans radiator, balloon in the back) and hitch with extra fixing point in front of rear suspension. Hauling that for 3 years, no problem, and fantastic and practical cargo room !!🙂 Honda Odyssey I had before (1999-2004) had à lot of problems, including a broken transmission !!
This sucker is pretty reliable over all if willing to give overlook superficial things like seat cracks and seat trim breaking. Ours is 13 years old and have had the front links replaced and rear AC fail. We capped the rear ac for 200 bucks and survive fine off the front AC. The oil weeps just a bit where he shows in this vid but not enough to drip or be a mess. Synthetic oil and still running strong on almost entirely original parts. Impressive.
1A Auto is THE BEST. Thank you for all you do to educate the consumer on the details of your products. Most companies wouldn't EVEN bother. You go ABOVE & BEYOND. Kudos to you! Blessing.
+@tomboytomgirl5356 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I bought a 2015 Town & Country a few months ago and I just came across your video. I'm saving it and I will definitely order parts from you when I need them.
As an owner of a 2014 from new, I purchased the Chrysler Maximum Lifetime Warranty based on ownership of other Chrysler minivans.The oil filter leak is EXPENSIVE. Over $600. Don’t forget corrosion on the hood (aluminum). This may or may not get fixed free based on FCA TSB. Check with more than one dealer.
Drive a 2015 T/C with 130K. Still loving this van. I’ve done routine oil (filter) changes and on 3rd set of tire, 2nd set of brakes.. No major maintenance issues (knocking on wood). Still often question if the engine is running when in idle (very quiet). Bought this van to do longer road trips for Big10 volleyball , ACC football and family trips from Ky to FL or LA. Our family and friends never complain as the ride and seating is comfortable. Still getting 24 mpg on road trips. Besides transmission shifting hard on hills, I can’t and won’t complain.
Notorious issue with this vehicle is the Y connector for the heater hose for the front and rear heater cores This Y connector assembly is $100 from Chrysler but can be obtained from auto parts store for less than $10. Connector is directly behind the engine on the right side. The Y itself develops pin hole leaks . My 2010 Town and Country has 225K miles and I have NEVER changed the transmission fluid and it is like pulling teeth to get any dealer to even check the "dipstick free" transmission . I figure it is gonna happen sometime and a $3k rebuild is still better than making car payments. I had the regulator cable fail on the drivers window and a radiator replacement and an alternator that would not charge. I got a good one!!!
Haha. Yes the pinhole leak! I had the same problem on a 2006 Mountaineer. I did the $10 Y connector replacement in that car and kept having leaking. I ended up buying the whole assembly with the wife’s van and have had no problems.
I serviced our 2015 at 50K miles. New fluid and filter. Had shifting issues at 75K and they said it needed a reflash. Drive better. At 94K it has a bad shutter. It seems 2-3 break on it each year. A friend that has a 15 just had the engine replaced at 100K miles.
The sliding doors would open at random a while after driving at 60 mph. Chrysler says there's no known problem. Dealer couldn't find the problem, they wanted to fix it by disconnecting the door motors. Nothing but problems, full of squeaks and rattles, the interior was solid plastic. Just cheaply built, 3 months after buying it, the transmission started acting up, dealer replaced transmission, a month later it has tyranny problems again, slipping in 2nd gear. Ac would blow 70 degree air, was told nothing wrong. The keyless ignition module failed, was replaced, a week later I'm stranded with it, keyless module failed again, now it needs another module at $3000, and tipm needs replaced, I traded off the junk pile and got a nice ford, the Ford performed flawlessly for 6 years, way more comfortable than the chrysler junk. Every Chrysler I've had was junk full of problems. I traded the van off, the guy who bought the van got killed after the ignition module failed on a busy highway.
81000 miles. No lifter or rocker arm problems (use 5/w30 oil). And trans shifts good as new. I add friction modifier twice a year. Recently replaced rotors all the way around along with the front wheel bearings. If the 3.6 is maintained properly (5000 mile oil changes. Filters etc…) plan on a trouble free experience.
Just changed Trans Oil and Filter in my 2013 T&C, 86,000 miles... While at it, I installed a Trans Pan with a drain, In 6 months I plan to pull plug and change out another 6 Qts, Then do a filter and oil about 25,000 to 30,000 miles from then on.
I got to 100k miles and had to replace the transmission. I’m glad you mentioned the AC. I’m having that issue. One little nit, the Chrysler symbol came off the back hatch and dealership said no way to fix it 😦. I have a 2013 T&C. I do love it. It’s pretty much fully loaded as I always purchase the demo car. It’s sorta new but not because it has mileage and dealerships need to get them off the lot after a certain amount of time. I’ve had it for 7 years now. But it is TERRIBLE in the snow!
@LM , These dam Chrysler dealerships and most mechanics never tell people to change change transmission fluid like 50,000 to 70,000 miles like they should. They want people to miss it and break down so Chrysler, Dodge can make much more $$$$ from it. Past 7 years now, every mechanic told me not to replace spark plug wires, spark plugs etc....I just did it. Now my 2010 Caravan drives like a brand new now. But 1st Caravan I had back in late 1980s, everything breaks down on that one like every week.
My experiance with Chrysler and Dodge is that they are a joke and their products are made to break down on purpose. Only reason on why I have an 2010 Caravan now, cause it was passed down to me. If it did not belong to a close family member, I would of never bought it, or buy 1 like it. But do admit, Chrysler and Dodge does have some nice body styles on many of their cars and trucks, on probably only very few good things I can say on their product.
Having owned several Chrysler minivans over the past twenty years I purchased the Max Care Lifetime warranty on my 2014. Rust on body panels just started this year.
Just finished replacing the serpentine and tensioner on 2011 minivan but notice the belt moved one grove towards engine at the crank shaft pulley but when I realigned belt on the crankshaft the belt move away from the engine at the power steering pulley.
Own a 2014 t&c...77k just replaced torque converter had codes p0128 p0741 just had check engine and code that wouldn't clear. No shuttering or transmission like issues. Also replace oil line that was leaking and thermostat. First major issues had o2 sensor replace prior to in the last 3 years. Love my van most miles is highway lots of trips.... regular oil changes tires etc. I have had the airbag light coming off and on. Warning light on radio display saying it's to hot this is new have to troubleshoot.
@@bucsoftampa8426 My Wife's was acting up in her 2011 T&C Fuel pump Relay went out just used a fuse bypass cable and routed it to one of the backseat outlets that we never used. Wasn't about to drop the money on a whole new TIPM
EVAP system has nothing to do with AC...EVAP is fuel vapor handling system...your comment about AC not blowing cold because of EVAP makes zero sense...
Add the Fobik (key) to that list, I get those in my shop all the time and lot of the time it solves a lot more issue than you'd think just by fixing or replacing the Key (fobik).
These 5 things all occurred on my 14 Chrysler Town & Country. Please do a follow up and talk about the next 5! I would love to hear in case there is more to look out for. My horn and airbag have also gone out. Back to the dealership to look at them now.
I had a 2013 Dodge caravan, now we just bought a 2014 T&C and the driver window was faulty, up and down when it wanted. Easy fix. Then thermostat went, dealership wanted $475, Mopar part was $31. Plus always get the proper coolant. We went with Prestone 50/50. Total cost was $45.00 start too finish 2 hours and that was running full on heaters as we topped up coolant and check engine temperature.
My window got stuck down and so I broke the button off to try to manually move the tabs to roll it up and down while it started raining horribly it got wet the whole box wouldn't work to roll up Windows locks nothing so I replaced it and it still won't work any thoughts on that
2016 Chrysler T&C. Got a code for shift solenoid and replaced the pack. Drove good for a few weeks then got the intermittent rough shift/down shift. Just replaced the trans fluid and filter but still doing the same thing.. Any suggestions? Had some very small metal shavings in the pan but nothing that seemed concerning. Maybe input/output speed sensors?
I had a 2011 T&C Touring L. Biggest piece of garbage I’ve ever owned. Bought it with 84,000 miles and traded it in at 112,000. Transmission problems, control module problems, alternator problems, exhaust system problems. Traded it in for a Honda Odyssey. So far, I’m glad I did.
Seems more a Honda Odyssey being traded in for a T&C story. Chrysler transmissions are bulletproof compared to any Honda transmission attached to a V6 or V8.
A few other common problems that I have personally repaired on 2 Caravans are the heater core splitter hoses (dorman makes an upgraded replacement) Hub failures, pinched harness under the driver seat causing an airbag light, because the harness is too close to the backstop and will cut into the harness eventually.
2011 with 140K. -Had to replace the Driver Window Regulator Assy twice, and the Passenger side once. -Replaced 3 alternators. -Replaced OEM brake rotors and pads with Duralast GOLD's. No more warped rotors and the annoying vibrations. -TIPM fuel pump issue was fixed by adding a jumper wire to other fuses. -Window Washer fluid tubes burst last winter so had to replace several sections. -Interior trim is falling apart, chrome accents peeling off. It's a Chrysler. I say I'll never own another one, and this was my final one. I'll drive it until the wheel fall off.
Just bought a 2012 town and country Chrysler sometime it doesn’t start I wait a while then it starts right up. Any thoughts why it doesn’t start all the time?
My dad has a 2010 Chrysler Town & country just shy of 65,000 miles and has transmission problems already. I was told by many mechanics if your car is has not reached 100k miles and having transmission issues, to sell it and get a better car.
I had the issue with with the oil filter. Got that replaced. Now I noticed a red light with a lightning strike through it and idling high over 1 thousand rpm and my break system went bad my breaks are hard to press down.
Bought a 2013 last summer. Around 150k. Since have had to rebuild transmission, replace rear evaporator and lines, and the driver's side window regulator. 9/10 would buy again though. Probably go foreign if I had another shot unfortunately.
This was our only FAMILY minivan. We have a 2014 with 180k miles. It was replaced with A 2019 Tahoe. I kept this minivan as a winter car and a backup to my truck. I keep seets down and can even haul my kayake inside with the gate tied down. What I hate is a foul stench when I use the fan ?
We are going on our second transmissions since the van was purchased 'New" in 2016, and all repairs have always been done at the Chrysler Dealership. sadly this is the worse vehicle to purchase if you want to offer courtesy transportation.
What about the TIPM? We have been having issues such as automatic high beams not working, then high beams coming on not staying on, driver side heated seat intermittently working, sliding door stopped working, a window stopped working, got pulled over for a brake light being out only to order a bulb then see it was actually working. Could this all be due to TIPM?
LMBO, Our 2013 Chrysler Town & country's Ac just started blowing not so cold air. blowing out 61 degrees in 100 degree weather from the front vents at an idle. The rear unit blows only ambient temp. I see where this will end up as the possible cause. Also Rattling from front drivers side started at the same time... What luck! Most likely one of the 2 front end items you spoke of. Keeping our fingers crossed on the window LOL. The van has had a very small oil leak on the drivers side , nothing big just a nuisance drip now & then. Now I know where that issue is possibly coming from . 99K on the old girl, too soon to "put it out to pasture" lol.
The window regulator is a pretty easy fix. Took about a hour, maybe hour fifteen to do it all. If the the regulator you’re gonna hear that cable snap, & the window will be stuck somewhere, but you’ll still hear a buzz when you try to engage the motor, do not burn it out. If it’s the motor, the window will be stuck in its last position, & you’ll hear nothing when hitting switch. Kinda like listening for the fuel pump to prime before a start. It’s not loud, but it’s there. Although, most will say do the motor, & the regulator, I’ve yet to have a motor fail doing two separate regulators in one. It’s cheaper to buy them together usually, but I just got the motors saved if I need them down the road. If you’ve got slow windows, & you’ve taken care of the window tracks then I’d go ahead with a motor too. Hitting the switch up & down fast repeatedly, or playing “footsies” with the windows from different seats is about the best way to get yourself into doing this job quick. The regulator is basically two side beams that make a “X” across the door, meeting at the motor gear point. You tangle that line, or put any kind of tension it shouldn’t have, it’s twirling up. Getting it untangle, & free is really the longest part of the job. Yes, the whole panel, speaker, & switches has to come out, but it’s like 20 screws & some push pin connections. Don’t pay 140-180 in labor alone for a window. & dear lord don’t trust your window to just some cheap ass tape. Tape it with whatever you have In absurd amounts, & shim that damn thing. It falls when it’s unhooked that’s another 2/300 gone.
Window regulator went out on my 2012, driver side. Window went down but never came back up. Turns out that the glass repair companies don't have regulators in stock or even order them. Local parts chains carry the cheap junk. So I bought an OEM regulator myself and found a glass repair shop that supplied the new window and fixed it all at a fair price. Meanwhile I had to drive around with clear Gorilla Tape as a window for a few days.
The number one problem is it will NOT START after driving it all day. Gauges don't work, no juice no power. I changed cold pack, alternator, wires, fuses, and it still wouldn't start until the next day!!!! 🤬
I wish you would have done #6 TIPM failure. This is an expensive and common repair of which Chrysler has lost class action lawsuits for this TIPM in other cars... Jeep Wrangler and Dodge Caravan/Dorango. It has caused excessive starting problems. Repairs run$1,800 with a few places offering mail in repairs.
Ugh just bought a 2008 4.0l with 227k miles for 1900, cel came on giving a transmission temp sensor error. Bought it out of desperation since my 04 just crapped out due an electrical issue
i have a 2009 town and country 3.8 v6 with 95,000 and if it gets below freezing. it has to be jumped. my left passenger door wont auto open anymore. and it has trouble accelerating passing someone or going up hill. and it gives resistance going downhill
I have a flickering noise behind the glove box what is it ....the fuel pressure relay or the a/c relay ....?? It happens when engine is on AND off but most of the time it happens when I turn on the engine... It lasts a lomg time b4 it stops and no the a/c blower doesnt let me run the air when it flickers too..please lmk what u think I should do or if u know of this problem ..mine is a 2010
Yeah , I have always enjoyed your videos, you guys and always benefited from you . Much love ! I just bought my 2014 chrystlerer town and country and have also bought remote fob to program by watching your videos and am confident I'll make it.
I have a 2012 town and country....it has stopped running on me 3 times....once moved on to the tow truck it would start up and was ok untill it stopped running again....this is an ongoing problem with 2008- 2015 Town and Country and noone has the answer (it could be this or it could be that)...I don't know why it's not #1 in the top 5 problems with this van.....then again I do know why !!
my head gasket is leaking (or crack) exhaust pushing coolant out the overflow and engine overheat. 2013 T&C .......... Not worth the thousands to repair correctly ........ which quick seal product would you recommend? It's my last ditch effort so........... thx in advance
The main problem is all the plastic pieces on the engine. Thankfully dorman make aluminum options. I replaced the coolant crossover, the timing cover, the thermostat housing, and the oil cooler. All aluminum. Wish they had aluminum valve cover but maybe some day
My Wife's mom has a 2016 TC and with only 77k miles and Trans just stopped doing anything and car lurches then stops. It's 3 months out of the recall list of the pump assembly within the trans. Dealership will investigate further, but possibly a very expensive fix.
Transmission fluid and Filter needs to be done every 30k. Period. 62TE trans do not like dirty fluid. Chrysler builds them to last 100k w/o a service and that’s exactly what you’ll get
Next time you change your trans filter get a new trans pan that has a drain plug, Dorman makes one for around $40.00. Then when you change your engine oil you can drain about 4 quarts of transmission fluid and replace it with fresh fluid, essentially flushing your transmission every 3rd or 4th engine oil change. This is especially good in hotter climates, areas with lots of hills/mountains, or if you are a heavy footed driver.
@@sspacil No flush is ever a true flush without doing a complete flush. Your method will always have dirty fluid, never get the worst dirt and debris out, and the fluid will not have the optimal viscosity given 3/4 of it has always been subject to getting hot and cold. You should leave everything up to professionals given your obvious ignorance and incompetence.
I have a 2012 T&C.... my problem is I need the 110 v outlet to work. I push the button up front and it wont stay on .... as if there is a short... can this be a fuse or is this "extra" known to stop working?
TIPM!! If you have more than 40k on it and the original fuel pump relay is still working, count your blessings. Also, the chronic "P0128" thermostat failure with T&C's.
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You forgot check mark #5, don't buy any Chrysler product!
I have a 2010, I dont have those problems. I have brake problems w/ pad and rotor replacement.
I had a 1997 model T & C LXi since 2003. Going into 200k, it was passing coolant through the exhaust. Other than that, it was the usual maintenance. I had to sell it in 2020, and I chocked as I saw it leave for the last time. Our kids grew in it trips into Mexico to see beaches volcanoes and pyramids in the summers, the grand canyon, San Francisco and Vegas.
I'll never forget my van.
I just got my first one and it's a 2015. And so far I love it. It's so comfortable.
@@NamasteTexas I have 2015. What I don't like is the road noise. Compared to the latest Pacifica, noise cancellers work to minimize noise levels. Even the wife's Ram is super quiet. The rest? Love the mini (6th purchase).
One of the best presenters is this guy at 1A Auto. I suggest ATF service [pan drop and filter] in the mid 80,000 miles range at the latest. Thereafter, 60,000 miles if you keep the van. The oil filter housing problem emanates from overtightening the filter cap. With proper care, these vans are very reliable.
I have 114000 miles on mine with just basic oil changes and regular maintenance.
I gotta say as a long time Mopar guy this minivan has made me hate Dodge.
Nickle and dime with small crap going wrong with it (if you count the clock spring going out causing the brakes to lock up at random times minor). A local Stealership has not helped matters at all.
I will never own another Dodge, they can go to hell.
Vin One gentleman! Of the 08-14 Dodge/chrysler can you recommend a particular yr/ motor size? I am looking to purchase one!
@@dougschmidt4137 I would suggest 2011 and newer. You get one engine option, the 3.6l pentastar which is a solid motor. Look for the HD brake model, and maintain the transmission as recommended. Overall these vans are great vehicles. Better enjoyed if you possess moderate mechanical abilities no doubt.
My 2014 T&C Limited was purchased with 35K off a lease in 12/15. No major gripes. Replaced spark plugs, serpentine belt, and serviced transmission at 100K. It does everything I want it to do, with minimal fuss. Been to California, been to Arizona, been to Utah, been to Wyoming, been to Maine a couple of times, been to Florida a couple of times, and back and forth to many places. Change the oil & filter, and the other filters (air & cabin) per maintenance schedule, brakes and tires when you need to, and you'll do all right. Now at 160K, hope to keep it goin' for at least another year - maybe two.
Had the issue with the window. Now I’m worried I’ll have the other issues. Had transmission service at around 80k miles. I’m on 108k mikes and love this van. It’s a smooth ride and so practical. Easy to empty the seats to move bigger items.
Exactly. Even a Rolls Royce has issues. 1] Driver seat (electrical) and longevity with the booster support wearing out; 2] the Japanese tranny is plain trash, 2nd T&C and noted the same problems again; 3] suspension shocks need to be replaced under 100k miles, fit and finished on panels, still an issue during this time frame (merger of unequal MB/Chrysler). However, this is my sixth minivan. Why do I love this mini? STOW-n-GO, and it will go 300K miles.
Love my 2010 Chrysler town and country with 397,000 run great
Wow, what did you do to get that many miles?
You should tell Scott Kilmer.
I own one and it has been really solid in its 8 years and 300k+ miles.
I have replaced a few parts here and there, but it had two big issues. The first one is that the transmission always has a big thump feeling when it's cold or too hot (it's been that way since it was brand new). And the second one is the TIPM fuse box.
The TIPM fuse box grounded the van for about 6 months because it just didn't want to turn on and we didn't know if there was a problem with the fuel pump or the ignition motor. Turns out it was the fuel pump relay that is not serviceable on the TIPM. A brand new one was way too expensive, and the solution was a very simple jumper cable between a couple of fuses. It also kept blowing fuses whenever we tried to adjust the seats, and we solved that with a slightly higher rated fuse. Even though the solutions were simple, it's pretty annoying when you can't use your car for half a year due to a very small electrical malfunction.
All in all, it has been pretty solid, specially for how much mileage we put on it.
Any ideas where to find reliable info on which fuses to jumper for this?
@@joelporozynski There is a specific part you can buy online to do it safely. They offer three models, one is a simple cable for testing, the other is a little PCB (that is the one I have), and the last one offers a number of options that may or may not be important to you. If you google TIPM fuel pump relay solutions, you can find a number of stores that fabricate and sell them, along with a lot of information of why the problem happens, and how to solve it.
In my six month long journey, the van was kind of working for the first three, it just took a while for ignition to happen. After that, the van couldn't turn on at all, and I began my investigation then. I actually found the problem pretty quick after a google search and some testing. I then ordered the part I needed, and FedEx lost it the first time. That was the main problem on why the van was grounded for so long. I got tired of waiting and straight up ordered another one, and that solved it for me. I haven't had any issues since then, and that happened about 3 years ago.
www.verticalvisions.com/tipm-plug-in-fuel-pump-power-bypass-test-system-lite.html
This is the part I bought, and the instructions I used.
Nailed em! My 2012 has had 4 of these top 5, but has 275,000 miles on the OD and averages 24.7 mpg.
Damn! That's alot for an FCA generation town & country
How many transmissions??
Yeah, mine gets really good gas mileage for an '08 with 114000 miles.
Our '14 Town & Country rolled over 200,000 miles this summer. I recently replaced the oil filter cover, had the timing done by our mechanic, and I'll be replacing the struts and sway bars myself very soon. Buying the parts from 1A of course.
Hey AJ, that is so awesome. have you come across a cylinder 1 misfire code P301? Any insight is greatly appreciated, thanx.
@@Pacmanny14 i did recently in our 2008 4.0l TnC, it was actually a strange situation.
i spent a lot of time google searching why id find oil in the plug hole when i pulled the coil off the plug.
plugs were in good condition, but the ignition coil on 1 of them was soaked with oil.
after some searching i found out at higher mileage the down tubes which are pressed and glued in, tend to lose seal if they are even a tiny bit wobbly.
hoping that wasnt the case, we replaced the coil and had the exact same issue about 3000 miles later, same down tube, ruined a new coil.
so we got the upper seal kit, and put that in, put in another new coil, and dr0ve it tgat way till it started to have the same issue again P3 code indicating a misfire/no-spark, same cylinder, so i finally relented and did the down tube repair.
so i very very carefully extracted the down tube with a set of thin and long needle-nose, gently wiggling it until it came all the way out, it was finger loose at first and could be wiggled easily, but wouldnt fully release.
once i got it out, i used a wet/dry vac, amd some brake cleaner to blast the oils away, and suck them away from the spark plug hole.
then applied a small amount of full cure (not the Kwik set stuff) JB Weld, once the JB weld was curing with the tube in place we put the plug and all the stuff back in... BEFORE doing that, make sure you dont have excess JB weld near the plug hole or that plug becomes permenant to the engine HA HA.
now she runs good, just gotta fix the transmission sticking into limp mode and shes running like new again.
@@Pacmanny14 that was common on the 1st generation Pentastar engines (2011-2013) they had a faulty head & the only real remedy was to replace the head but they did fix this issue on the newer versions (2014-up) supposedly...
Actually the Chrysler town and country was a great mini van I took many trips with my family and my kids with their friends it lasted 234 thousand miles had a fantastic ride great sound system, I totally loved it.
Good to know , it’s 2022, my 2012 hasn’t had any major problems . 10 years ago my evaporated went when I went to Florida but it was covered by an aftermarket warranty. I love my van .
Very reliable, I had 3 of them.
Driving à 2009 T&C 4.0l for 6 years, just minors things!
And hauling a 24ft Travel Trailer with minors upgrade (extra trans radiator, balloon in the back) and hitch with extra fixing point in front of rear suspension. Hauling that for 3 years, no problem, and fantastic and practical cargo room !!🙂
Honda Odyssey I had before (1999-2004) had à lot of problems, including a broken transmission !!
Hey can I have one.
The 4.0L model is different from 3.8L, different transmission too, so maybe that's why?
This sucker is pretty reliable over all if willing to give overlook superficial things like seat cracks and seat trim breaking.
Ours is 13 years old and have had the front links replaced and rear AC fail. We capped the rear ac for 200 bucks and survive fine off the front AC. The oil weeps just a bit where he shows in this vid but not enough to drip or be a mess. Synthetic oil and still running strong on almost entirely original parts. Impressive.
1A Auto is THE BEST. Thank you for all you do to educate the consumer on the details of your products. Most companies wouldn't EVEN bother. You go ABOVE & BEYOND. Kudos to you! Blessing.
+@tomboytomgirl5356 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I bought a 2015 Town & Country a few months ago and I just came across your video. I'm saving it and I will definitely order parts from you when I need them.
I bought a 2010 Town and country and at first it ran smooth but i did notice the transmission was shifting a bit rough. Thanks for the tips
As an owner of a 2014 from new, I purchased the Chrysler Maximum Lifetime Warranty based on ownership of other Chrysler minivans.The oil filter leak is EXPENSIVE. Over $600. Don’t forget corrosion on the hood (aluminum). This may or may not get fixed free based on FCA TSB. Check with more than one dealer.
Drive a 2015 T/C with 130K. Still loving this van. I’ve done routine oil (filter) changes and on 3rd set of tire, 2nd set of brakes.. No major maintenance issues (knocking on wood). Still often question if the engine is running when in idle (very quiet). Bought this van to do longer road trips for Big10 volleyball , ACC football and family trips from Ky to FL or LA. Our family and friends never complain as the ride and seating is comfortable. Still getting 24 mpg on road trips. Besides transmission shifting hard on hills, I can’t and won’t complain.
+ValknVille Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Found this video bc my window fell off the track lol
Thanks for the info
Notorious issue with this vehicle is the Y connector for the heater hose for the front and rear heater cores This Y connector assembly is $100 from Chrysler but can be obtained from auto parts store for less than $10. Connector is directly behind the engine on the right side. The Y itself develops pin hole leaks .
My 2010 Town and Country has 225K miles and I have NEVER changed the transmission fluid and it is like pulling teeth to get any dealer to even check the "dipstick free" transmission . I figure it is gonna happen sometime and a $3k rebuild is still better than making car payments. I had the regulator cable fail on the drivers window and a radiator replacement and an alternator that would not charge. I got a good one!!!
+Phillip Hunt Thanks for the feedback!
Haha. Yes the pinhole leak! I had the same problem on a 2006 Mountaineer. I did the $10 Y connector replacement in that car and kept having leaking. I ended up buying the whole assembly with the wife’s van and have had no problems.
I serviced our 2015 at 50K miles. New fluid and filter. Had shifting issues at 75K and they said it needed a reflash. Drive better. At 94K it has a bad shutter. It seems 2-3 break on it each year. A friend that has a 15 just had the engine replaced at 100K miles.
The sliding doors would open at random a while after driving at 60 mph. Chrysler says there's no known problem. Dealer couldn't find the problem, they wanted to fix it by disconnecting the door motors. Nothing but problems, full of squeaks and rattles, the interior was solid plastic. Just cheaply built, 3 months after buying it, the transmission started acting up, dealer replaced transmission, a month later it has tyranny problems again, slipping in 2nd gear. Ac would blow 70 degree air, was told nothing wrong. The keyless ignition module failed, was replaced, a week later I'm stranded with it, keyless module failed again, now it needs another module at $3000, and tipm needs replaced, I traded off the junk pile and got a nice ford, the Ford performed flawlessly for 6 years, way more comfortable than the chrysler junk. Every Chrysler I've had was junk full of problems. I traded the van off, the guy who bought the van got killed after the ignition module failed on a busy highway.
81000 miles. No lifter or rocker arm problems (use 5/w30 oil). And trans shifts good as new. I add friction modifier twice a year. Recently replaced rotors all the way around along with the front wheel bearings. If the 3.6 is maintained properly (5000 mile oil changes. Filters etc…) plan on a trouble free experience.
Ive experienced the first 4 issues you mentioned, plus a few others. Sucks that vehicles now days are so prone to failure
For anyone watching, this video also applies to the Dodge Grand Caravan and the Volkswagen Routan. They're all the same vehicle.
Just changed Trans Oil and Filter in my 2013 T&C, 86,000 miles... While at it, I installed a Trans Pan with a drain, In 6 months I plan to pull plug and change out another 6 Qts, Then do a filter and oil about 25,000 to 30,000 miles from then on.
I got to 100k miles and had to replace the transmission. I’m glad you mentioned the AC. I’m having that issue.
One little nit, the Chrysler symbol came off the back hatch and dealership said no way to fix it 😦. I have a 2013 T&C. I do love it. It’s pretty much fully loaded as I always purchase the demo car. It’s sorta new but not because it has mileage and dealerships need to get them off the lot after a certain amount of time. I’ve had it for 7 years now. But it is TERRIBLE in the snow!
@LM , These dam Chrysler dealerships and most mechanics never tell people to change change transmission fluid like 50,000 to 70,000 miles like they should. They want people to miss it and break down so Chrysler, Dodge can make much more $$$$ from it. Past 7 years now, every mechanic told me not to replace spark plug wires, spark plugs etc....I just did it. Now my 2010 Caravan drives like a brand new now. But 1st Caravan I had back in late 1980s, everything breaks down on that one like every week.
Yep just dropped money to replace my transmission at 145,000. Pissed about it
My town and country has every damn thing wrong with it. Crazy..I loved this video
+Tina Pajamas Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Lol, I've tried out four different vans, thinking I was just getting lemons....nah, they're all dumpster fire.
My experiance with Chrysler and Dodge is that they are a joke and their products are made to break down on purpose. Only reason on why I have an 2010 Caravan now, cause it was passed down to me. If it did not belong to a close family member, I would of never bought it, or buy 1 like it. But do admit, Chrysler and Dodge does have some nice body styles on many of their cars and trucks, on probably only very few good things I can say on their product.
Amazing, you just covered 3 out of the 5 problems i've had.
I would also add the coolant crossover hose that's made of plastic and melts directly over the alternator.
Having owned several Chrysler minivans over the past twenty years I purchased the Max Care Lifetime warranty on my 2014. Rust on body panels just started this year.
+Cal Bob 750 Thanks for the feedback!
I literally got dizzy from the camera man swaying it up and down and side ways!
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for these tips i just had upgrade my wifes honda & she chose a 2010 chrysler t&c that i got do a major inspection on this next week !
Just finished replacing the serpentine and tensioner on 2011 minivan but notice the belt moved one grove towards engine at the crank shaft pulley but when I realigned belt on the crankshaft the belt move away from the engine at the power steering pulley.
Own a 2014 t&c...77k just replaced torque converter had codes p0128 p0741 just had check engine and code that wouldn't clear. No shuttering or transmission like issues. Also replace oil line that was leaking and thermostat. First major issues had o2 sensor replace prior to in the last 3 years. Love my van most miles is highway lots of trips.... regular oil changes tires etc. I have had the airbag light coming off and on. Warning light on radio display saying it's to hot this is new have to troubleshoot.
What about the TIPM? Heard it comes bad from the factory from a lot of people.
Just replaced mine 4 months ago ..1400.00 for one hour of work
I replaced my tipm yesterday by myself. Not hard at all. TH-cam
@@bucsoftampa8426 My Wife's was acting up in her 2011 T&C Fuel pump Relay went out just used a fuse bypass cable and routed it to one of the backseat outlets that we never used. Wasn't about to drop the money on a whole new TIPM
Came here to say, how did we forget the TIPM?
I'm looking for help my horn just keeps going off while I drive while it's parked and I don't know how to take the cover off the steering wheel
EVAP system has nothing to do with AC...EVAP is fuel vapor handling system...your comment about AC not blowing cold because of EVAP makes zero sense...
😂
2013 T&C been pretty good and I did snatch up the MOPAR lifetime warranty so yeah had a few $100 deductibles but it has paid for itself. 🙏
Add the Fobik (key) to that list, I get those in my shop all the time and lot of the time it solves a lot more issue than you'd think just by fixing or replacing the Key (fobik).
🤔 are you talking about the start-up "key" ...can you explain please because I'm in the middle of buying a T & C this weekend... Thanks
These 5 things all occurred on my 14 Chrysler Town & Country.
Please do a follow up and talk about the next 5! I would love to hear in case there is more to look out for.
My horn and airbag have also gone out. Back to the dealership to look at them now.
I had a 2013 Dodge caravan, now we just bought a 2014 T&C and the driver window was faulty, up and down when it wanted. Easy fix. Then thermostat went, dealership wanted $475, Mopar part was $31. Plus always get the proper coolant. We went with Prestone 50/50. Total cost was $45.00 start too finish 2 hours and that was running full on heaters as we topped up coolant and check engine temperature.
My window got stuck down and so I broke the button off to try to manually move the tabs to roll it up and down while it started raining horribly it got wet the whole box wouldn't work to roll up Windows locks nothing so I replaced it and it still won't work any thoughts on that
2016 Chrysler T&C. Got a code for shift solenoid and replaced the pack. Drove good for a few weeks then got the intermittent rough shift/down shift. Just replaced the trans fluid and filter but still doing the same thing.. Any suggestions? Had some very small metal shavings in the pan but nothing that seemed concerning. Maybe input/output speed sensors?
I had a 2011 T&C Touring L. Biggest piece of garbage I’ve ever owned. Bought it with 84,000 miles and traded it in at 112,000. Transmission problems, control module problems, alternator problems, exhaust system problems. Traded it in for a Honda Odyssey. So far, I’m glad I did.
Seems more a Honda Odyssey being traded in for a T&C story. Chrysler transmissions are bulletproof compared to any Honda transmission attached to a V6 or V8.
My biggest issue has been the Egr Valve, I've replaced it three times in 3 years and still don't know what causes it to set off check engine light.
Mine too! It's so frustrating!
A few other common problems that I have personally repaired on 2 Caravans are the heater core splitter hoses (dorman makes an upgraded replacement) Hub failures, pinched harness under the driver seat causing an airbag light, because the harness is too close to the backstop and will cut into the harness eventually.
how did you fix the airbag light, i find my airbag light goes on and off depending on what bump i hit in the road
2011 with 140K.
-Had to replace the Driver Window Regulator Assy twice, and the Passenger side once.
-Replaced 3 alternators.
-Replaced OEM brake rotors and pads with Duralast GOLD's. No more warped rotors and the annoying vibrations.
-TIPM fuel pump issue was fixed by adding a jumper wire to other fuses.
-Window Washer fluid tubes burst last winter so had to replace several sections.
-Interior trim is falling apart, chrome accents peeling off.
It's a Chrysler. I say I'll never own another one, and this was my final one. I'll drive it until the wheel fall off.
Just bought a 2012 town and country Chrysler sometime it doesn’t start I wait a while then it starts right up. Any thoughts why it doesn’t start all the time?
My dad has a 2010 Chrysler Town & country just shy of 65,000 miles and has transmission problems already. I was told by many mechanics if your car is has not reached 100k miles and having transmission issues, to sell it and get a better car.
I had the issue with with the oil filter. Got that replaced. Now I noticed a red light with a lightning strike through it and idling high over 1 thousand rpm and my break system went bad my breaks are hard to press down.
Bought a 2013 last summer. Around 150k. Since have had to rebuild transmission, replace rear evaporator and lines, and the driver's side window regulator. 9/10 would buy again though. Probably go foreign if I had another shot unfortunately.
Power steering pops off when it’s cold too! Lock on my driving side won’t lock or unlock with button.
got a 2015. power steering pump went out twice as of this morning. got a new transmission. it’s got 171,000 miles
Just had the transmission replaced at 98000 miles. Oil filter housing needed replacing a week later. 2015 T&C.
This was our only FAMILY minivan. We have a 2014 with 180k miles. It was replaced with A 2019 Tahoe. I kept this minivan as a winter car and a backup to my truck. I keep seets down and can even haul my kayake inside with the gate tied down. What I hate is a foul stench when I use the fan ?
What is the relation between EVAP and A/C system, as I know that EVAP is related to fuel system !
Stands for evaporator. A/C systems have an evaporator.
@@strongjohnful AC evaporator assembly is usually in the front of the car as opposed to the rear, no?
@@vinloy23 Rear evap is for rear AC inside the van. Front and rear are controlled separately.
Are these top problems the same for the 05 model.
We are going on our second transmissions since the van was purchased 'New" in 2016, and all repairs have always been done at the Chrysler Dealership. sadly this is the worse vehicle to purchase if you want to offer courtesy transportation.
+Humberto Hernandez Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
What about the TIPM? We have been having issues such as automatic high beams not working, then high beams coming on not staying on, driver side heated seat intermittently working, sliding door stopped working, a window stopped working, got pulled over for a brake light being out only to order a bulb then see it was actually working. Could this all be due to TIPM?
Nice presentation pleasure listening to you thanks
Blowing only cold air what's the problem? Voyager RT year 2014.. Thanks for advices
I have a 2011 town and country and the rear washer nozzle only runs a river or washer fluid instead of spraying. How do I fix. Do you have a video
Clean debris out of the tiny holes in the nozzle assembly.
LMBO, Our 2013 Chrysler Town & country's Ac just started blowing not so cold air. blowing out 61 degrees in 100 degree weather from the front vents at an idle. The rear unit blows only ambient temp. I see where this will end up as the possible cause. Also Rattling from front drivers side started at the same time... What luck! Most likely one of the 2 front end items you spoke of. Keeping our fingers crossed on the window LOL. The van has had a very small oil leak on the drivers side , nothing big just a nuisance drip now & then. Now I know where that issue is possibly coming from . 99K on the old girl, too soon to "put it out to pasture" lol.
Is mechanical and electrical break down coverage worth it on a 2018 Chrysler minivan?
Does using Eco mode cause more engine problems. Ive used mine for city driving 90%
I have a 2014 and it amazing. It runs so quiet.
I love it.
I an selling mine for 14k only 84k miles
Gently used.
Can we talk? I'm interested
The window regulator is a pretty easy fix. Took about a hour, maybe hour fifteen to do it all. If the the regulator you’re gonna hear that cable snap, & the window will be stuck somewhere, but you’ll still hear a buzz when you try to engage the motor, do not burn it out. If it’s the motor, the window will be stuck in its last position, & you’ll hear nothing when hitting switch. Kinda like listening for the fuel pump to prime before a start. It’s not loud, but it’s there. Although, most will say do the motor, & the regulator, I’ve yet to have a motor fail doing two separate regulators in one. It’s cheaper to buy them together usually, but I just got the motors saved if I need them down the road. If you’ve got slow windows, & you’ve taken care of the window tracks then I’d go ahead with a motor too. Hitting the switch up & down fast repeatedly, or playing “footsies” with the windows from different seats is about the best way to get yourself into doing this job quick. The regulator is basically two side beams that make a “X” across the door, meeting at the motor gear point. You tangle that line, or put any kind of tension it shouldn’t have, it’s twirling up. Getting it untangle, & free is really the longest part of the job. Yes, the whole panel, speaker, & switches has to come out, but it’s like 20 screws & some push pin connections. Don’t pay 140-180 in labor alone for a window.
& dear lord don’t trust your window to just some cheap ass tape. Tape it with whatever you have In absurd amounts, & shim that damn thing. It falls when it’s unhooked that’s another 2/300 gone.
Window regulator went out on my 2012, driver side. Window went down but never came back up. Turns out that the glass repair companies don't have regulators in stock or even order them. Local parts chains carry the cheap junk. So I bought an OEM regulator myself and found a glass repair shop that supplied the new window and fixed it all at a fair price. Meanwhile I had to drive around with clear Gorilla Tape as a window for a few days.
Could you please help me find tips or videos to replacing the head gaskets on 4.0 L town and country please?
The number one problem is it will NOT START after driving it all day. Gauges don't work, no juice no power.
I changed cold pack, alternator, wires, fuses, and it still wouldn't start until the next day!!!! 🤬
My 08 Chrysler has every single one of these issues lol. Spot on.
I wish you would have done #6 TIPM failure. This is an expensive and common repair of which Chrysler has lost class action lawsuits for this TIPM in other cars... Jeep Wrangler and Dodge Caravan/Dorango. It has caused excessive starting problems. Repairs run$1,800 with a few places offering mail in repairs.
Ugh just bought a 2008 4.0l with 227k miles for 1900, cel came on giving a transmission temp sensor error. Bought it out of desperation since my 04 just crapped out due an electrical issue
Airbag light randomly illuminating during driving and vent door for the front drivers side letting in cold air in winter.
i have a 2009 town and country 3.8 v6 with 95,000 and if it gets below freezing. it has to be jumped. my left passenger door wont auto open anymore. and it has trouble accelerating passing someone or going up hill. and it gives resistance going downhill
Is a 2008 town snd country with the 3.3 the same engine and transmission as a 2007?
I have a flickering noise behind the glove box what is it ....the fuel pressure relay or the a/c relay ....?? It happens when engine is on AND off but most of the time it happens when I turn on the engine... It lasts a lomg time b4 it stops and no the a/c blower doesnt let me run the air when it flickers too..please lmk what u think I should do or if u know of this problem ..mine is a 2010
Every year I need to replace the brakes and rotors on my 2011 Chrysler T&C Limited van. I never had this problem with previous vehicles.
What about the major electrical problems and the fact that the steering locks up in snow?
Some one told me to turn off the traction control light, before driving in the snow, life saver!
You didn't mention the driver side seat track cover that seems to always wear out and break all the time.
U are a good teacher
This may seem like a dumb question, but are the issues going to be applicable to Dodge Caravan as well?
+Darryl W Henderson Yes, these issues can be applicable to a Caravan.
Yeah , I have always enjoyed your videos, you guys and always benefited from you . Much love !
I just bought my 2014 chrystlerer town and country and have also bought remote fob to program by watching your videos and am confident I'll make it.
Great presenter. Right now in the front of my van I hear ticking or clicking i wonder what it is. I do not have a light on.
Lifters...🤦
I have a 2012 town and country....it has stopped running on me 3 times....once moved on to the tow truck it would start up and was ok untill it stopped running again....this is an ongoing problem with 2008- 2015 Town and Country and noone has the answer (it could be this or it could be that)...I don't know why it's not #1 in the top 5 problems with this van.....then again I do know why !!
Had to rebuild my trans and replace the housing in my 2015.
2007 town and country's problems... you have a video?
Watching from Brazil.
+@MrMacromolecula We do not have a video for this repair right now, but we'll keep this request in mind for a future video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Any idea how to fix an exhaust leak on a 2015 Chrysler town and country
Amazing video thank you so much
my head gasket is leaking (or crack) exhaust pushing coolant out the overflow and engine overheat. 2013 T&C .......... Not worth the thousands to repair correctly ........ which quick seal product would you recommend? It's my last ditch effort so........... thx in advance
The main problem is all the plastic pieces on the engine. Thankfully dorman make aluminum options. I replaced the coolant crossover, the timing cover, the thermostat housing, and the oil cooler. All aluminum. Wish they had aluminum valve cover but maybe some day
My Wife's mom has a 2016 TC and with only 77k miles and Trans just stopped doing anything and car lurches then stops. It's 3 months out of the recall list of the pump assembly within the trans. Dealership will investigate further, but possibly a very expensive fix.
Getting ready to hit the 200,000 mile on 2012.
+@carolmitchell5536 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Transmission fluid and Filter needs to be done every 30k. Period. 62TE trans do not like dirty fluid. Chrysler builds them to last 100k w/o a service and that’s exactly what you’ll get
Next time you change your trans filter get a new trans pan that has a drain plug, Dorman makes one for around $40.00. Then when you change your engine oil you can drain about 4 quarts of transmission fluid and replace it with fresh fluid, essentially flushing your transmission every 3rd or 4th engine oil change. This is especially good in hotter climates, areas with lots of hills/mountains, or if you are a heavy footed driver.
@@sspacil No flush is ever a true flush without doing a complete flush. Your method will always have dirty fluid, never get the worst dirt and debris out, and the fluid will not have the optimal viscosity given 3/4 of it has always been subject to getting hot and cold. You should leave everything up to professionals given your obvious ignorance and incompetence.
Thanks for the update
I have a 2012 T&C.... my problem is I need the 110 v outlet to work. I push the button up front and it wont stay on .... as if there is a short... can this be a fuse or is this "extra" known to stop working?
TIPM!! If you have more than 40k on it and the original fuel pump relay is still working, count your blessings. Also, the chronic "P0128" thermostat failure with T&C's.
Yes!!!! Had this problem with my 2012 dodge grand caravan and my sisters 2013 t&c
I have a 08 what problem should I look for
I had two flexplates break, original was at 90k and the oem replacement at 125k. Add that one to your list