I thought I might could do this. You convinced me it’s way to difficult but now I’m doubting any mechanic being able to do it. At least you educated me about why everyone needs a thousand to do it. I would have never thought about getting spark plugs while there done. Great idea.
Well done and thank you for taking the time to show us how to do it. And yes I agree, Chrysler/Jeep really did a lousy job (either unintentional or on purpose) on designing the engine and certain parts. The engine bay needs to be expanded to allow more work room. My Wrangler is perhaps one of the most overcrowded engine bays that I have ever worked on. And for those wondering, yes it does affect the airflow in there. More mass = more volume = less air circulation and more heat accumulation.
Replaced mine with the dorman and felpro gaskets a month ago. Started leaking again a week ago. No way i was going to do it again so dropped it at the shop today to get the gaskets swapped out. If it leaks again im just going to sell the jeep. Horrible design and chrysler should be sued for this
Replaced mine about 4-5 years ago with a Mopar unit. Based on the cause of my leak, I don’t think a Dorman will prevent. The rubber seals on the bottom just wear out over time. A plastic mopar or an aluminum Dorman both have these seals. If your leak is from someone gorilla tightening the oil filter and cracking the plastic housing then that’s another story. It’s one reason why I do my own oil changes. There’s no reason to over tighten the filter. No reason to torque it. Still a horrible design by Jeep and inexcusable. They should spend more time on fixing crap like this and not cutting corners. The prices of new jeeps now are laughable. This is my second and LAST jeep. And Jeep can thank themselves for that. Their shoddy construction and lack of quality are enough for me to leave the brand. Love my jeep but I cannot justify the price for the garbage im getting.
Same here feeling confident then for it to still leak from either their or elsewhere top of engine down to the tranny then the p0302 won't go away after spark plug and ignition tune
Great tutorial. I successfully swapped out the oil cooler filter! Whew, quite a project. My wife assisted me and your frustrated comments were quite comical as I shared the same sentiments! I pray I never ever have to do complete this work again.!!! 😅
First, outstanding tutorial vid. I wish I would have found this the first time I had to replace the oil cooler. I found and watched other videos. Most were time lapsed. No torque specs or pattern information with them. In all honesty it’s probably why It happened to me again not long after I got the first time done. Patterns were all wrong. I stripped out two bolts. It was a nightmare. I still have my jeep tore apart after working on it all day. Trying to find the torque specs and patterns. You are a God send brother! Gonna get back out there either in about 10 min although it’s almost 10pm, I may wait until tomorrow. Thank you so much for this very informative crazy outstanding video! You’ve got a new sub!
Just take that bracket off on the right hand side by the throttle body in the start of the job and don't remove the fuel injectors, makes it much easier. Spark plugs and coil packs and clean throttle bottle plate. Great job!
@@Lostboheme There is a quick disconnect at the front of the rail. Way easier to disconnect it and leave all the injectors in the intake. Also less chance of creating leaks.
Well done, Joe. Thanks for posting. I’ve done this on my ‘13 but needed to refresh my memory because my daughter’s ‘16 is bleeding oil all over the place. I did order the aluminum replacement you recommended. Thanks.
My 13 just started draining oil like a Siv. Part should be here today. Anything special you needed? I have a socket set, pliers, drill. Anything you can think of?
@@nickmccleary2262 normal hand tools will get you done, the only exception being you will definitely need a set (you only actually need one) of REVERSE torx sockets. I forget which size is needed, I think it’s mentioned in the video. Good luck. Take your time.
I've removed that upper intake a few times, its easier to loosen the stud that holds the bracket of the two nuts you took off on the drivers side, that will allow you to wiggle the upper intake out easier, also definitely remove that bracket under the throttle body, loads easier
Trying to do this in 30° high wind, I forgot the o ring on the oil inlet. How dumb of me. Brand new oil just poured right out. Thank you for actually showing that part.
Excellent video! The Mrs. had to have this replaced in her 2018 Cherokee Trailhawk after an oil change tech thought it was a leak coming from the rear main seal also. Our mechanic says it's a known issue in the 3.6 design, using plastic instead of aluminum. Nice job man.
Thank you for this. I had this part replaced on my '14 JKU under warranty by a dealership in 2018. The JKU is 10 yrs old and has 138K so doubt they will replace it again even though it's their flaw. I purchased the part from your store but a year later, the part is $200 for the Dorman. It's the biggest thing I will have tackled but I am going to try this and if I fail, I'll call the mobile mechanic in my city. I found a puddle today and looked down the side of the casing only to find a puddle of oil. I'll keep you posted on how I fair as I'm no mechanic.
"It fell into place....something must be missing." That line had me rolling! Good video! I'm doing mine this weekend. I'll probably record mine and post it on my channel as well. I can't edit for the life of me, so my quality of videos lacks. Lol
I have a 2012 Wrangler. My oil cooler blew on a cross country trip from South Carolina to Kingman Arizona. Cost me 2500 to get fixed. That was almost 4 years ago. Mine is leaking again 😤. Gonna fix it myself and go with the aluminum upgrade. Thanks for the video!!!
Doing this right now. The factory plastic housing finally gave in. The leak was in the seal grove of one of the antifreeze ports. I'm installing a Dorman aluminum housing...$200. The part you installed has a much better finish that the Dorman. Make sure to check the ports for aluminum flakes around the casting joints. All in all, it's very good quality. I can't complain since I just hit 250K miles on my 2012 JKU. I discover a cracked lower intake housing. I hope this is the cause for the rough idling and rough engine at 2k RPMs. While you're in this deep, replace of clean the injectors! Thanks for the video!
Wanted to inquire if you learned anything else while doing your replacement? Also interested in the total work time it took you to complete if you can ballpark guess at that.
Hey Joe great video. I'm doing this on my '17 JK right now. When removing the filter housing and seeing the pool of oil and coolant in the valley, should I be concerned of contamination getting down in the "good" oil and coolant? I'm wondering if I need to do a complete coolant flush.
One year after your video and now I have to do this same repair. THANK YOU for your video, it’s very helpful. However, I have a question about the part you used. In the video it shows to be aluminum and have a black cap. In your Amazon store front, the Dorman part you listed has an orange cap. You also mentioned the price and the part listed is double of that mentioned. I’m ok with the price but I wanna make sure it’s the right one. There are other parts around the price listed with a black cap and want to get the same one you have. Thank you in advance.
Yes. Good observation. The part I used in this video doesn’t seem to be available so the only one that I found that works for the JK is the Dorman part I have in my Amazon store. And the price is double. Inflation is doing a number on our Jeep budgets!!
Great video!! I have a 99 Sahara, and like you said, the 4.0 is great. until you need freeze plugs. I am sending that job to the garage this week. Living in the rust belt, I know bolts are gonna snap! I've had 3 Jeeps and each time i get the next think WHY DID I DO THIS. My first Jeep was a brand new 2001 Sahara, then i got a 2012 Wrangler, and I have a 99 Sahara now. Albeit, its easier to work on, but you work on it more often. lol Great video, great content!!
I unbolt that bracket. Walk over and clean the intake with a new paper towel. Extract those 2 inverted torx studs then walk back over while it is right there take that bracket off completely. Bolts bracket and studs right into the garbage can. We call that Professional Courtesy. The next time it leaks POW no crap in the way!!!!
How did this part/repair hold up after a year? I replaced the oil temp and pressure sensors (spark plugs etc) myself about 6 months ago and now i regret not replacing the whole oil cooler assembly as now u have a leak. Also, I followed your links to the parts but the 2 you have in your amazone storefront arent available. Debating between paying 350 for dorman or saving some $$ with one from Amazon. Any thoughts?
Everything operating as it should thankfully. No issues at all. I guess the two links that I have in my Amazon store, the sellers are no longer offering them. Take a look through Amazon and see if anybody else is selling it. Definitely get the aluminum one though. Don’t get the plastic one.
I just changed my 2017 jeep wrangler oil cooler now I see and smell burning oil is that just the residue from the take out of the old oil cooler burning off on the exhaust ?
Thank you for video. 2 questions - as I have watched twice - 1- any chance of a complete tools list? 2- Where did you get those schematics, showing bolt patterns and torque specs? Thanks Again!
I put the tools in my Amazon store (link in video description) I found the torque specs on google. I’ll see if I can find the pdf docs and put links in comments. Good luck with your project.
Just did mine last week…. Pain in the ASS!!! 😂😂 but I was already replacing a bunch of other things and turns out when I got the lower intake out it was in fact leaking. Mine was on my 2017 ram 1500 with the 3.6 though.
the brand of oil cooler you used...how highly recommended was it? What about the Dorman brand? All the mechanics I spoke with said to go back with factory, what are your thoughts? Personally, I'm willing to take a chance with an aluminum versus plastic.
@@th3frogman Pentastar is a versatile engine that is used in far more than Jeeps and Chargers. It makes fantastic power and torque, so it's at home in just about any vehicle.
How did it work out for you? I am looking at my 2015 and it has this issue. It's currently our only car, so I am not sure if I should embark on this or just pay the shop to do it.
FYI ,,Check your spark plug gaps even on new plugs. Did mine a while back and one brand new one was off. May have been dropped at the auto parts store.
I've got some oil drips that seem to be coming from above on my 2010, but that is the 3.8L V6, not the 3.6L Pentastar V6. I'm curious if the same issue could be present with that motor. BTW - the 3.8L is a dog that can't get out of it's own way.
I feel like I went into too much detail but I wanted to provide more than less. Let folks fast forward if they want to. As for overseas shipping, not sure but Amazon should do it. Check my Amazon store link in comments.
What exactly is the failure mode for the OEM oil cooler? Is it that the housing cracks? And if so, does the cracking have anything to do with overtightened filter housing cap?
it seems like it could be, or just that it's a mix of pastic and aluminum. i've had radiators fail on a few jeeps over the years that use a similar plastic + metal design and they seem to fail there. granted most of those were over 100k miles on the vehicle, so not the worst.
Quick question. I bought a new housing unit for my jeep and installed it perfectly. Checked everything 3 times every bolt every connection every tube. Put it all back together and I have a massive oil leak now. Took everything apart and checked again. The area was dry where my housing sits everything was clean still. Checked everything again. Put it all back together and same massive oil leak. It's so insane I'm just feeling defeated. I have no idea what it could be. Any idea would be so helpful
I hate working with fuel injectors, well the o-rings at least, have cut several when reinstalling either the injectors or the rail itself. some sort of grease really helps when reinstalling the injectors and rail. The bad part for your job is how far you have to take it apart again if you get a leak. I guess you could test before everything is back together. It's easy on the XJ.
Many cuss words have been said while standing over a pentastar 3.6L chrystler that's for sure! agreed with your statement... bring back the 4.0 already!
i think mine started that way. i guess it was falling while moving because nothing in the driveway till recently. i noticed my oil was going down and i was worried it was burning it. then i just saw it on the ground and after crawling under have found the tell tale puddle of oil up top near the oil filter like he shows in the other video.
So I just took my jeep in to get this replaced, I ordered the parts so it was cheaper. Went to pick up my jeep yesterday and as soon as I started it I noticed a very hard idle and it seemed to be in limp mode. It died on me shortly after starting it. Trying to turn it over I could barely get it to start (mainly just cranking.) lifting the hood the mechanic and I took turns looking and trying to turn it over. I noticed what might be the axel vent tube was hanging loose on the back side behind the foam that was moved in the video.I noticed a ticking noise and the air intake was making a low/deep “whoahhhhh” sound. The mechanic is keeping it longer…. And needed to order an additional part costing around $270. My jeep was running smooth before I brought it in other than my oil leak coming from a cracked oil house. 😐 I feel as if the mechanic might be at fault since he left things unclamped and I noticed issues undone the hood before he even did. I should have done it myself but unfortunately I don’t have a garage to cover me from the cold temperatures where I am.
Wow. I'm sorry to hear you are having this issue with your Jeep. I'm glad the shop has offered to take another look and see what's going on. Hopefully it's nothing serious and you are back on the road fast!! Thanks for the comment and watching...Keep on Jeepin!!
Don’t over tighten the intake manifold it is plastic and will crack. Don’t forget the o ring on the oil filter cap. No one mentions this, oil will pour out of the filter cap.
@@joshuadunphy8413true. I had to replace the cooler housing on my JK after 5 years. I’m approaching my 10th now and going to replace it again for good measure. It’s just one of many things that annoy me about the jeep build quality. This is an expensive repair to have done at a shop. I did it myself and saved a lot.
The amazon link displays 2 types..one for 12-16 and one for 17. Not sure if they are the same part number (couldn't believe it would be different) but always good to order right part for right make/mode.
@@JustJeep_It Not sure why its saying 12-16 and 17 and up. (Must be an Amazon thing), Dormans site says different. (or did). Done a few of these and the year change is early to 13 and 14 and up. Its a different "filter" and the filters don't interchange. Look up the two filters and you will see the difference. The 14 and newer have a nipple on them. I've only seen the newer ones available from dorman, didn't think they made both. Something strange though, I've only seen the dormans with an orange filter cap. That cap has a tag on it telling you you must use the newer filter. You can install the newer housing on the 13 and back engines but from then on you MUST use the newer filter! Thats why the cap is orange (lets you know something is different) and has the tag on it. Good to put a sticker under the hood too letting anyone else know. If its a 13 and older with the newer housing and you have a shop change the oil they will probably install the wrong filter and you will have problems. Same goes for when you sell it, let the buyer know! And its strange they are saying 16 and older. If you install an older housing on a 14-16 engine someone installing the proper year filter is going to have problems! Major problems.
I stumbled across this video last night and digging into it the manufacturer has no idea what they are selling. The split is pre 2013 and 2014 and newer. They are different and could cost you an engine! Hope you get the right one.
Thanks for the video Joe. I just finished my wife’s 2017 Sahara 3.6L, replaced the part with the aluminum one and I still have a leak. The thought of going back is…ugh 😩 I cleaned that valley and made sure no O ring where left behind. I had to push down on the parts in order for it to properly sit well and every screw grabbed on to. Any suggestions?
I’ve changed my 2013 once after the stealer ship raped my extended warranty. Got in found all original seals had not been changed. I agree with all here it’s a piss poor design and long term will do nothing but cause problems.
The studs on the driver side have the "E" head studs, looked to be about a no. 6 E socket. Maybe removing those 4 studs would help. Also the big harness on the right side, middle, would also help getting the intake off. Very good job on this video. Happy Thanksgiving. God bless, stay well.
Ah...Yes..that is a very good suggestion..taking out those studs would have made things a little less stressful.....I'll add this comment to the write up and give you credit!!! Thumbs up!!!
@Just Jeep It - The Jeep Shop I did and your video made it so much easier thank you! The oil temp sensor was seized in the old housing so my neighbors got an earful coming out of my garage as well haha! Happy new year to you and thanks again for the video!
Haha.....as I was editing the video, I said those exact words...."Probably should have removed those studs" Better late than never I guess..thanks for watching and for the good idea..
Just a note here, you kept complaining about poor engineering on the 3.6, in the automotive world, nothing is engineered for ease of service in the field either in your own garage or a factory service facility, entering is done for ease and speed of assembly at the factory.
2017 recon here with 59,000 miles. Having this issue now not under warranty. Asking price like I said 1,100. I don’t have the tools nor the knowledge or time. F*** this jeep
@@JustJeep_It one more question. How did you get the fuel nipple off the second intake manifold? The fuel rail came off and I collected the blue o rings but the nipple remains. I’ve pulled a but but I’m a little scared to put full ass into it. Suggestions?
I thought I might could do this. You convinced me it’s way to difficult but now I’m doubting any mechanic being able to do it. At least you educated me about why everyone needs a thousand to do it. I would have never thought about getting spark plugs while there done. Great idea.
Well done and thank you for taking the time to show us how to do it. And yes I agree, Chrysler/Jeep really did a lousy job (either unintentional or on purpose) on designing the engine and certain parts. The engine bay needs to be expanded to allow more work room. My Wrangler is perhaps one of the most overcrowded engine bays that I have ever worked on. And for those wondering, yes it does affect the airflow in there. More mass = more volume = less air circulation and more heat accumulation.
Wow, what a great job filming the entire job! Thank you! This will save me hundreds of dollars.
Glad it helped! Good luck with your repair.
Replaced mine with the dorman and felpro gaskets a month ago. Started leaking again a week ago. No way i was going to do it again so dropped it at the shop today to get the gaskets swapped out. If it leaks again im just going to sell the jeep. Horrible design and chrysler should be sued for this
Replaced mine about 4-5 years ago with a Mopar unit. Based on the cause of my leak, I don’t think a Dorman will prevent. The rubber seals on the bottom just wear out over time. A plastic mopar or an aluminum Dorman both have these seals. If your leak is from someone gorilla tightening the oil filter and cracking the plastic housing then that’s another story. It’s one reason why I do my own oil changes. There’s no reason to over tighten the filter. No reason to torque it. Still a horrible design by Jeep and inexcusable. They should spend more time on fixing crap like this and not cutting corners. The prices of new jeeps now are laughable. This is my second and LAST jeep. And Jeep can thank themselves for that. Their shoddy construction and lack of quality are enough for me to leave the brand. Love my jeep but I cannot justify the price for the garbage im getting.
Same here feeling confident then for it to still leak from either their or elsewhere top of engine down to the tranny then the p0302 won't go away after spark plug and ignition tune
@@slyshootertony8496 So since you were in there. You replaced the plugs and are now getting the P0302 code?
@Kiddro22 it was already there replaced the plugs and coil pack didn't go away
@@slyshootertony8496 run a compression test on each cylinder. You most likely have a cracked head & sticky rocker arms
Great tutorial. I successfully swapped out the oil cooler filter! Whew, quite a project. My wife assisted me and your frustrated comments were quite comical as I shared the same sentiments! I pray I never ever have to do complete this work again.!!! 😅
I’m leaking again and need to replace the aluminum dorman cooler i put in last year. Soooo frustrating but its just time and $$
First, outstanding tutorial vid. I wish I would have found this the first time I had to replace the oil cooler. I found and watched other videos. Most were time lapsed. No torque specs or pattern information with them. In all honesty it’s probably why It happened to me again not long after I got the first time done. Patterns were all wrong. I stripped out two bolts. It was a nightmare.
I still have my jeep tore apart after working on it all day. Trying to find the torque specs and patterns. You are a God send brother!
Gonna get back out there either in about 10 min although it’s almost 10pm, I may wait until tomorrow. Thank you so much for this very informative crazy outstanding video! You’ve got a new sub!
Just take that bracket off on the right hand side by the throttle body in the start of the job and don't remove the fuel injectors, makes it much easier. Spark plugs and coil packs and clean throttle bottle plate. Great job!
How would you get the fuel system out of the way without removing the fuel injectors? Genuinely curious as I'm about to do this job myself
@@Lostboheme There is a quick disconnect at the front of the rail. Way easier to disconnect it and leave all the injectors in the intake. Also less chance of creating leaks.
Well done, Joe. Thanks for posting. I’ve done this on my ‘13 but needed to refresh my memory because my daughter’s ‘16 is bleeding oil all over the place. I did order the aluminum replacement you recommended. Thanks.
Thank you for the kind words. It was a lot of steps and didn’t want to leave out important steps. Good luck with your project!!!! #jeeplife
My 13 just started draining oil like a Siv. Part should be here today. Anything special you needed? I have a socket set, pliers, drill. Anything you can think of?
@@nickmccleary2262 normal hand tools will get you done, the only exception being you will definitely need a set (you only actually need one) of REVERSE torx sockets. I forget which size is needed, I think it’s mentioned in the video. Good luck. Take your time.
I've removed that upper intake a few times, its easier to loosen the stud that holds the bracket of the two nuts you took off on the drivers side, that will allow you to wiggle the upper intake out easier, also definitely remove that bracket under the throttle body, loads easier
Trying to do this in 30° high wind, I forgot the o ring on the oil inlet. How dumb of me. Brand new oil just poured right out. Thank you for actually showing that part.
That's a very time consuming job, roughly 4hours to do. I personally done 4 of them. Good job Joe
Thanks man. It was not too fun. But all fixed now.
Good luck finding a mechanic that will quote you 4 hours for this work :)
This is a great video. Really helped me get through this project. I think I had less frustrating moments due to your tips.
Excellent video! The Mrs. had to have this replaced in her 2018 Cherokee Trailhawk after an oil change tech thought it was a leak coming from the rear main seal also. Our mechanic says it's a known issue in the 3.6 design, using plastic instead of aluminum. Nice job man.
Thank you for this. I had this part replaced on my '14 JKU under warranty by a dealership in 2018. The JKU is 10 yrs old and has 138K so doubt they will replace it again even though it's their flaw. I purchased the part from your store but a year later, the part is $200 for the Dorman. It's the biggest thing I will have tackled but I am going to try this and if I fail, I'll call the mobile mechanic in my city. I found a puddle today and looked down the side of the casing only to find a puddle of oil. I'll keep you posted on how I fair as I'm no mechanic.
This was a life saver. Did fix myself...with a few timeouts and saved about $1,500
"It fell into place....something must be missing." That line had me rolling! Good video! I'm doing mine this weekend. I'll probably record mine and post it on my channel as well. I can't edit for the life of me, so my quality of videos lacks. Lol
I feel ya man. Just did this job today. Watching videos now to see if anyone else struggled lol. Had to walk away a couple times.
I have a 2012 Wrangler. My oil cooler blew on a cross country trip from South Carolina to Kingman Arizona. Cost me 2500 to get fixed. That was almost 4 years ago. Mine is leaking again 😤. Gonna fix it myself and go with the aluminum upgrade. Thanks for the video!!!
On my 2012 I had mine replaced at only 60,000 miles, and now at 98K it's leaking again. FML.
What part number did u use for the replacement?
Doing this right now. The factory plastic housing finally gave in. The leak was in the seal grove of one of the antifreeze ports. I'm installing a Dorman aluminum housing...$200. The part you installed has a much better finish that the Dorman. Make sure to check the ports for aluminum flakes around the casting joints. All in all, it's very good quality. I can't complain since I just hit 250K miles on my 2012 JKU. I discover a cracked lower intake housing. I hope this is the cause for the rough idling and rough engine at 2k RPMs. While you're in this deep, replace of clean the injectors! Thanks for the video!
Wanted to inquire if you learned anything else while doing your replacement? Also interested in the total work time it took you to complete if you can ballpark guess at that.
Such a legendary tutorial. I just finished on my 18’ Golden Eagle and I’m all done, learnt alot during this too, thank you again :)
That’s awesome. I’m glad you found this video helpful. I learned a lot too. Like flying and building the plane at the same time. Haha. Thank you!!
When I saw the alternator mounted backwards,I knew you were in for a fight....😁😁
It's such a bad design it's insane. Have to remove the alt if you ever need to change the belt. Pile of shit lol!
Replaced mine today. Great video. Was a pain but saved so much $. Got tickled by the commentary a few times. Love it. Thank you.
Hey Joe great video. I'm doing this on my '17 JK right now. When removing the filter housing and seeing the pool of oil and coolant in the valley, should I be concerned of contamination getting down in the "good" oil and coolant? I'm wondering if I need to do a complete coolant flush.
One year after your video and now I have to do this same repair. THANK YOU for your video, it’s very helpful. However, I have a question about the part you used.
In the video it shows to be aluminum and have a black cap. In your Amazon store front, the Dorman part you listed has an orange cap. You also mentioned the price and the part listed is double of that mentioned. I’m ok with the price but I wanna make sure it’s the right one. There are other parts around the price listed with a black cap and want to get the same one you have. Thank you in advance.
Yes. Good observation. The part I used in this video doesn’t seem to be available so the only one that I found that works for the JK is the Dorman part I have in my Amazon store. And the price is double. Inflation is doing a number on our Jeep budgets!!
Great video!! I have a 99 Sahara, and like you said, the 4.0 is great. until you need freeze plugs. I am sending that job to the garage this week. Living in the rust belt, I know bolts are gonna snap! I've had 3 Jeeps and each time i get the next think WHY DID I DO THIS. My first Jeep was a brand new 2001 Sahara, then i got a 2012 Wrangler, and I have a 99 Sahara now. Albeit, its easier to work on, but you work on it more often. lol Great video, great content!!
I feel your frustration…I’m the same way, I walk away and come back, seems to help…good job.
Thanks for watching. Man this motor really got me upset. Lol.
Great video I really appreciate your honesty and hard work. Now I know I’m going to my mechanic, thanks !
I unbolt that bracket. Walk over and clean the intake with a new paper towel. Extract those 2 inverted torx studs then walk back over while it is right there take that bracket off completely. Bolts bracket and studs right into the garbage can. We call that Professional Courtesy. The next time it leaks POW no crap in the way!!!!
How did this part/repair hold up after a year? I replaced the oil temp and pressure sensors (spark plugs etc) myself about 6 months ago and now i regret not replacing the whole oil cooler assembly as now u have a leak.
Also, I followed your links to the parts but the 2 you have in your amazone storefront arent available. Debating between paying 350 for dorman or saving some $$ with one from Amazon. Any thoughts?
Everything operating as it should thankfully. No issues at all.
I guess the two links that I have in my Amazon store, the sellers are no longer offering them. Take a look through Amazon and see if anybody else is selling it. Definitely get the aluminum one though. Don’t get the plastic one.
I just changed my 2017 jeep wrangler oil cooler now I see and smell burning oil is that just the residue from the take out of the old oil cooler burning off on the exhaust ?
Thank you for video. 2 questions - as I have watched twice - 1- any chance of a complete tools list? 2- Where did you get those schematics, showing bolt patterns and torque specs? Thanks Again!
I put the tools in my Amazon store (link in video description)
I found the torque specs on google.
I’ll see if I can find the pdf docs and put links in comments. Good luck with your project.
Just did mine last week…. Pain in the ASS!!! 😂😂 but I was already replacing a bunch of other things and turns out when I got the lower intake out it was in fact leaking. Mine was on my 2017 ram 1500 with the 3.6 though.
the brand of oil cooler you used...how highly recommended was it? What about the Dorman brand? All the mechanics I spoke with said to go back with factory, what are your thoughts? Personally, I'm willing to take a chance with an aluminum versus plastic.
They’ve revised the factory part like 18 times. I still don’t trust it.
How is the aluminum oil cooler holding up? Thank you for this video. I'll be using your instructions step by step
It's been great. No issues..No leaks. Aluminum is the way to go. Glad this video helped you..Good luck with your repair!!
@@JustJeep_It where did you purchase the aluminum one if you don't mind me asking
The 4.0 might be easier to work on, but the Pentastar is a superior engine. It just does everything better.
I'll take the 4.0 over the Pentastar. Having an engine like that stuffed into a Wrangler just seems a bit on. Besides, it's a Jeep, not a Charger.
@@th3frogman Pentastar is a versatile engine that is used in far more than Jeeps and Chargers. It makes fantastic power and torque, so it's at home in just about any vehicle.
Pentastar = more torque & more power. I-6 = serviceable & bulletproof.
Great video, very imformative. That cheat sheet with patterns and torque specs looks handy. Care to share a link?
Thank you very much for the video! I'm about to tackle this on my 2016 and I'm just gathering tools and parts. Where did you find the torque specs?
How did it work out for you? I am looking at my 2015 and it has this issue. It's currently our only car, so I am not sure if I should embark on this or just pay the shop to do it.
FYI ,,Check your spark plug gaps even on new plugs. Did mine a while back and one brand new one was off. May have been dropped at the auto parts store.
Labor book says 3 to 4 hours to replace the oil filter housing cooler ?
Hello! I have coolant leaking over the transmission could it be from this housing?
Most definitely. Coolant runs through the oil housing. It’s a mess in there. Good luck.
when he said, "while you just pour in the intake Joe"...🤣🤣, that's when I hit the subscribe button! Great freaking job....
Haha. Thanks a lot. Glad u enjoyed the video.
I've got some oil drips that seem to be coming from above on my 2010, but that is the 3.8L V6, not the 3.6L Pentastar V6. I'm curious if the same issue could be present with that motor. BTW - the 3.8L is a dog that can't get out of it's own way.
I’m having the same question myself at the moment, did you ever get the answer to your question?
@@Asht0n.C I did not. Mine is a really slow leak, like maybe a drop a day, so I'm taking the cardboard on the garage floor approach for now.
Awesome educational video, Thank You! Any recommendations where I can order that oil filter/cooling system that delivers to finland?
I feel like I went into too much detail but I wanted to provide more than less. Let folks fast forward if they want to. As for overseas shipping, not sure but Amazon should do it. Check my Amazon store link in comments.
What a great video and Amazon link! Very comprehensive and helpful.
Installed mine a couple weeks ago how is it holding up so far? Any leaks or anything?
Drove from Pennsylvania to Florida and back…. No problems, so I guess the fix is good
What exactly is the failure mode for the OEM oil cooler? Is it that the housing cracks? And if so, does the cracking have anything to do with overtightened filter housing cap?
it seems like it could be, or just that it's a mix of pastic and aluminum. i've had radiators fail on a few jeeps over the years that use a similar plastic + metal design and they seem to fail there. granted most of those were over 100k miles on the vehicle, so not the worst.
Quick question. I bought a new housing unit for my jeep and installed it perfectly. Checked everything 3 times every bolt every connection every tube. Put it all back together and I have a massive oil leak now.
Took everything apart and checked again. The area was dry where my housing sits everything was clean still. Checked everything again.
Put it all back together and same massive oil leak. It's so insane I'm just feeling defeated. I have no idea what it could be. Any idea would be so helpful
Did you check your rear main
This same part will fit a 2014 jk right? Amazon says it will but i just want to make sure.
Yes
Howd it go ?
I’ve had my Jeep for three years and I’ve had 3 put on
This is a great video! Thank you for the walk through and your detailed comments. Learned a lot.
So wait do you like the 4.0? I couldn’t tell.. lol awesome video Joe. The toughest jobs are the most rewarding
Lol. Yeah. Guess I kinda got out of hand.
did you change the fuel injectors???? .i just noticed mine oil leaking .. I'm glad I came across your video
No. I cleaned them up and reinstalled. Works 100% good to go.
What was the part number/brand did you use for oil cooler? Great video, I feel your pain.
So I’m getting a misfire code after install is anyone else having this issue?
I hate working with fuel injectors, well the o-rings at least, have cut several when reinstalling either the injectors or the rail itself. some sort of grease really helps when reinstalling the injectors and rail. The bad part for your job is how far you have to take it apart again if you get a leak. I guess you could test before everything is back together. It's easy on the XJ.
I’m new to doing things myself that being stated can someone let me know what tools were required for this??
Many cuss words have been said while standing over a pentastar 3.6L chrystler that's for sure! agreed with your statement... bring back the 4.0 already!
How did you get it in? I'm struggling with mine too.
Yeah. It’s a bear to wiggle in there but eventually it lines up. Wishing you good luck and patience.
Thank you for your viedo.. guy said it looked like a rear main . I followed your video, and it was exactly what you said ordering the part today. 👍
That’s awesome!!! Glad my video helped!!!!!
Hey. Just curious, what did you use to suck up the leaking fluid in that valley?
I used a handheld fluid transfer pump. Then brake clean and a rag to get the rest. Lots of oil and coolant. Ugh.
@@JustJeep_It oh ok, i need to fix my leaking filter housing too.
@@chuckisbusy good luck. It’s not too bad. Kind of a pain but not bad.
Did you smell oil through your vents at all? I got a oil smell, but nothing on the ground.
i think mine started that way. i guess it was falling while moving because nothing in the driveway till recently. i noticed my oil was going down and i was worried it was burning it. then i just saw it on the ground and after crawling under have found the tell tale puddle of oil up top near the oil filter like he shows in the other video.
Excellent job. I am going to replace this part myself, thanks.....
Where did you get the replacement oil cooler from? I want a aluminum one.
Check my Amazon store - link in comments. It’s aluminum
How long is that job according to the book of labour minus changing the spark plugs
I believe it’s about a 4 hour job.
@@JustJeep_It thx
So I just took my jeep in to get this replaced, I ordered the parts so it was cheaper. Went to pick up my jeep yesterday and as soon as I started it I noticed a very hard idle and it seemed to be in limp mode. It died on me shortly after starting it. Trying to turn it over I could barely get it to start (mainly just cranking.) lifting the hood the mechanic and I took turns looking and trying to turn it over. I noticed what might be the axel vent tube was hanging loose on the back side behind the foam that was moved in the video.I noticed a ticking noise and the air intake was making a low/deep “whoahhhhh” sound. The mechanic is keeping it longer…. And needed to order an additional part costing around $270. My jeep was running smooth before I brought it in other than my oil leak coming from a cracked oil house. 😐 I feel as if the mechanic might be at fault since he left things unclamped and I noticed issues undone the hood before he even did. I should have done it myself but unfortunately I don’t have a garage to cover me from the cold temperatures where I am.
Wow. I'm sorry to hear you are having this issue with your Jeep. I'm glad the shop has offered to take another look and see what's going on. Hopefully it's nothing serious and you are back on the road fast!! Thanks for the comment and watching...Keep on Jeepin!!
Don’t over tighten the intake manifold it is plastic and will crack. Don’t forget the o ring on the oil filter cap. No one mentions this, oil will pour out of the filter cap.
Fix It Again Tony
Just Empty Every Pocket
Had job. But I was able to save a lot of money on this repair. Thank you.
Wouldn’t it be great is jeep just made a quality vehicle? That’s a novel idea. What they are asking for new models now is just beyond insanity.
That is the big flaw with the pentastar engine. Many different makes and models have this same flaw.
@@joshuadunphy8413true. I had to replace the cooler housing on my JK after 5 years. I’m approaching my 10th now and going to replace it again for good measure. It’s just one of many things that annoy me about the jeep build quality. This is an expensive repair to have done at a shop. I did it myself and saved a lot.
Excellent job! Thanks for all the detail
I feel like I shared too much but I like to provide details and let folks decide what they want to skip over.
The link took me to a 2012-2016 Jeep Wrangler I have a 2017 JKU will it still fit
The amazon link displays 2 types..one for 12-16 and one for 17. Not sure if they are the same part number (couldn't believe it would be different) but always good to order right part for right make/mode.
@@JustJeep_It Not sure why its saying 12-16 and 17 and up. (Must be an Amazon thing), Dormans site says different. (or did).
Done a few of these and the year change is early to 13 and 14 and up. Its a different "filter" and the filters don't interchange. Look up the two filters and you will see the difference. The 14 and newer have a nipple on them. I've only seen the newer ones available from dorman, didn't think they made both.
Something strange though, I've only seen the dormans with an orange filter cap. That cap has a tag on it telling you you must use the newer filter. You can install the newer housing on the 13 and back engines but from then on you MUST use the newer filter! Thats why the cap is orange (lets you know something is different) and has the tag on it. Good to put a sticker under the hood too letting anyone else know. If its a 13 and older with the newer housing and you have a shop change the oil they will probably install the wrong filter and you will have problems. Same goes for when you sell it, let the buyer know!
And its strange they are saying 16 and older. If you install an older housing on a 14-16 engine someone installing the proper year filter is going to have problems! Major problems.
I stumbled across this video last night and digging into it the manufacturer has no idea what they are selling. The split is pre 2013 and 2014 and newer. They are different and could cost you an engine! Hope you get the right one.
@@edmundanderson657 Thank you so much
Thanks for the video Joe. I just finished my wife’s 2017 Sahara 3.6L, replaced the part with the aluminum one and I still have a leak.
The thought of going back is…ugh 😩
I cleaned that valley and made sure no O ring where left behind.
I had to push down on the parts in order for it to properly sit well and every screw grabbed on to.
Any suggestions?
Did you figure it out?
Great video! Thanks for setting the expectations!
thanks for the video but I’m not looking forward to doing this. If I do it myself I have more money for other mods though 😊
i will take the 4.0 any day of the week also
Thanks so much for this video its helping me so much through your struggle and making my project go so well...definitely less cussing lol 😆
I’ve changed my 2013 once after the stealer ship raped my extended warranty. Got in found all original seals had not been changed. I agree with all here it’s a piss poor design and long term will do nothing but cause problems.
The studs on the driver side have the "E" head studs, looked to be about a no. 6 E socket. Maybe removing those 4 studs would help. Also the big harness on the right side, middle, would also help getting the intake off. Very good job on this video. Happy Thanksgiving. God bless, stay well.
Ah...Yes..that is a very good suggestion..taking out those studs would have made things a little less stressful.....I'll add this comment to the write up and give you credit!!! Thumbs up!!!
Man you just saved my life!!🙏🏻
Hey!! Glad my video helped!!! Did you just tackle this job?
@Just Jeep It - The Jeep Shop I did and your video made it so much easier thank you! The oil temp sensor was seized in the old housing so my neighbors got an earful coming out of my garage as well haha! Happy new year to you and thanks again for the video!
Awesome video!!!!
Just say thank you mopa.
love the subtitles haha
Will try sunday 😁😁 gracias
Great Video that’s for help.
You don’t need to remove the fuel rail, it’s way easier if you don’t
great job !
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
you should have removed the studs.
Haha.....as I was editing the video, I said those exact words...."Probably should have removed those studs" Better late than never I guess..thanks for watching and for the good idea..
Thank you for the video! I think we need the NJ cut (swear words included),,lololol
Disconnect that negative battery terminal
I finally remembered half way through the project. Yikes
takes about 3 hours
Just a note here, you kept complaining about poor engineering on the 3.6, in the automotive world, nothing is engineered for ease of service in the field either in your own garage or a factory service facility, entering is done for ease and speed of assembly at the factory.
Engineered with a plastic garbage oil filter housing because why?
2017 recon here with 59,000 miles. Having this issue now not under warranty. Asking price like I said 1,100. I don’t have the tools nor the knowledge or time. F*** this jeep
The cooler is now $300
I saw that. That’s crazy.
Damn what a horrible design jeep/chrysler/ Fiat they should of never retired the 4.0L
Now I know not to try this
It’s not too bad. Just take your time and be patient.
What was the tool you used to remove the hose clamp?
The link to the tool is in my Amazon store in the description write up. Best tool to take off those clamps!
@@JustJeep_It one more question. How did you get the fuel nipple off the second intake manifold? The fuel rail came off and I collected the blue o rings but the nipple remains. I’ve pulled a but but I’m a little scared to put full ass into it. Suggestions?
Actually I got it! You are correct in your assessment of the compulsion to use harsh language.