Hard wire the rectifier directly to the battery with 12 gauge wire and a 30amp inline fuse… to the positive terminal. It’s a good way because you avoid the loom. As you have issues before it may help. lol on YT there are many instructional videos on this. Saved me a ton of hassle doing this. Good luck! 😊
So pleased to see your optimism, the Italian biks have never had a reputation of having a flawless electric wiring. I do hope that you will enjoy the bike for what it is made for, sunny days and small winding roads 😊👍😊
As a former owner of a 1999 st2 I can tell you, that you will be changing that rectifier/regulator every year.. I owned my st2 for 4 years and replaced it 3 times. Even changed it for a 916 model that was built on the right side next to the battery. For more cooling...good luck. Riding the bike is a blast though!
@@mattyb7736 no man, see the old honda cbr for example. their voltage regulator, I think they're Denso, they're a real disaster, same thing with Transalp.
Stator voltage is fine but sometimes the insulation breaks down and doesn’t supply sufficient power. Meg it or at least check all circuits for earth leakage The electrex RR’s are crap and will fail again, get a decent Shindengen mosfet and wire it directly to the battery avoiding all the standard cables - you need an in line fuse as well tho.
Those Electrex World regulator rectifiers don't have a particularly good reputation - I went through a couple when I had issues a few years ago with my 98 VFR800. Ended up with a 2nd hand MOSFET R/R from a low mileage Street Triple R and hard wired the stator to the R/R.
Have a look for the solder joint kits, they use a heat gun to melt the solder in a heat shrink sleeve, seen them used on other channels and seem to work fine
I think the light staying on is because your battery is a touch low due to all the start stop stuff, it will probably settle once you ride the bike a sensible distance.
As some have said, the stock rec/reg in that location is prone to overheat. On my 98 ST2 I put a mosfet reg/rec that has built in fins and cut a piece of that under cowl to insure fresh air flowing on it. You loose the warning light on the dash, but since I ftted a usb plug with voltage readout in the dash panel instead, this didn't matter.
I have had to change out my regulator rectifier 2 times over 5 years. Just seems to be a st2 97 to 98 thing single phase generator. I think the make you have us one of the best for the job. You do not need to relocate it. It has a massive heatsink area.
Well done mate, you're doing a good job. If you want to tame that clutch dowm, make the bike more ridable and mitigate any serious damage you should check out my Ducati dry clutch playlist. Cheers, Andy.
Beautiful bad ass FZR in the background. I'm a fan of the 89/90 (never owned one though) model but the yellow paintjob on that 87 makes it looks way better. I know they are classics but I never liked the red and white paint scheme.
@@AshRowland I will definitely 👍😁 About the Ducati video, this is exactly what I just did to my Busa, but I swapped connectors and fitted a Mosfet regulator. (FH020BA) It's on ZZR1400, GSXR 1000 etc etc
I love the first gen 87/88 FZR1000s, they look better than the later ones to me, I watched them dominate in racing down here in the southern hemisphere, by the time the EXUP came out the 750s and the OW01 had taken over racing duties. I’ve almost finished the restoration of my own 87, just the paintwork to do, red/white of course. 😀
@@AshRowland The Blue white “Sonauto” colours nearly got the nod for mine, but it came from the factory in the red/white so I thought I’d keep it original.
Looks really good without all of that black paint peeling off it, nice job! For charging system checks other than isolated component resistance testing I probe the back of the connectors at the appropriate pin to see what the voltages are with everything plugged in and running. A word or 3 about keeping it stock- be careful with that philosophy. It works brilliantly for Japanese bikes, not so much for Italian bikes. I speak from experience. Can be a PITA, but I enjoy improving the stock shortcomings so it is a bit fun for me. I say embrace it and make it better than stock when necessary.
Thanks James... the pins in the plug I wanted to test were weatherproof sealed and I couldn't really get in there... I like stock, but I also like making improvements... I don't like breaking down 🤣
I had an st2 with electrical problems. Everything was changed, lasted about a month. Then phut ! Rectifier/regulator blown. My brother had a Harley one spare. Put it on, and problem solved. Did over 40,000 miles on the bike no problem. The Harley one had huge capacity which solved the problem.
You can test voltage just in parallel (back probe the connector). For the RR test, just have it connected to the battery and check the voltage over the battery (running the bike with the RR disconnected from the battery will force it to push ALL the power to earth).
In the mid 90s I finally had enough saved to buy a Ducati, not a 916, which is what I wanted, but a 750SS, what began was the worst experience in bike ownership I have ever had😂, the dealer bought it back after 6 months under the “lemon law” I swear that bike was cursed, everything that could go wrong, went wrong. The final straw was the engine self destructing as the mechanic warmed it up for a test ride after yet another stay in the workshop.☹️
@@AshRowland Yeah they are pretty crazy here in NZ too, bike prices in general are insane here, especially anything 80s and 2 stroke, guys are asking 40,000- 50,000 NZ dollars for RZ500s RG500s and NS400s😳😆. The previous govt had the brilliant idea of making it so any bikes brought into the country, that were manufactured after 1989 had to have anti-lock brakes fitted, before it could be registered for the road🙄😡 They clearly never consulted anyone in the industry as anti-lock brakes were rare on bikes right up to the 2000s. There is a waiver you can apply for but it costs money and the bike has to meet certain criteria. This stupid law has pushed the price of old bikes up, and made importing bikes very expensive. I see the prices some bikes in the UK go for (mainly 80s 90s ones) and almost feint, they go for up to a quarter of what we pay for them.😀
@@uhtred7860 80s 2 stroke in the UK are rare and expensive. I'd love an 80s 2-stroke 250 but they are crazy money for what they are. That's mad, my 1999 Hayabusa doesn't even have ABS 🤣 in fact, the only bike I ever rode with ABS was a Suzuki Gladius that I learnt on 🤣
Good evening Ash and Kate i love watching your TH-cam videos on your TH-cam channel I hope both of you are well and Ash are you enjoying the build of your new motorbike please say hi to Kate I do miss her not being on your TH-cam videos please keep safe and warm and please keep up your good work on your you tube channel cheers ash keep going you make me smile
the ac voltage test is largely irrelevant. they'll still produce the required ac voltage, but if you fit a little rectifier wired directly to the battery with a bad stator it won't make dc voltage. the single phase charging system was used on everything pre 98 (99 on water cooled models). that little flat voltage reg was unique though to the st2. often rubbish. otherwise the same as others of the same year. later shindengan sh579b in the air duct is much better. you lose the charge light, some have a real issue with that. disconnected from the battery, there is no load on the reg. just doesn't work. hooked up and measuring battery volage as you did is the way to do it. you know it's probably going to be the voltage regulator. but you need to start at the start by testing the alternator, then move through the system.
Thanks mate, I do like the little battery light working, but it seems to be on at anything below 2k revs lol, it would seem that these RRs aren't very durable 🤣 I'm thinking of installing a small discrete voltage meter somewhere so I know what's happened 😀
@@AshRowland i think they're just an irrelevant distraction myself. i'd use the later 3 phase one and lose the light and concern. or a mosfet fh020 from a very late model. those unique st2 97/98 regs were dodgy.
@@AshRowland Ha’h .. 🤣. Bypassed limp & went straight there .. that’s no good mate .. good luck , perseverance is essential with these ferking motorbikes.
Yes, please. Novice here. If I put two big rocks in a 45 gallon drum and rolled it down the Hardknott Pass with my eyes shut, could I pretend I had a classic Ducati? More seriously, I'd try to get as much wind as possible around any reg/rec, rather than rely on thermal conductivity on a metal to metal interface.
That's not stock location for Reg/Rec. Stock location on later models is inside that scoop where you had your hand while you were fitting the nut/bolt. Location on earlier bikes was down by the motor. Yours has been relocated to a position underneath the scoop. Possibly because it's too big to fit inside the scoop. Inside the scoop is best location, as it gets fresh cool air from in front of the bike. The position of yours looks to be protected from the fresh cool air by the little bit of chin fairing (which I think has probably been trimmed back so the reg/rec could be fitted) Stock reg/rec has cooling fins much like on the cylinders of an air cooled engine.
@@Farlig69 Underneath the scoop? I stand corrected - I thought it was by the engine. I have a 2001 ST4 and 2003 ST4S and they're both inside the scoop. I just assumed that whoever had fitted the replacement reg/rec had relocated it there.
Inside the scoop make more sense to be honest, the more cooling the better... I put my hand on it after running the bike for a while and it was basically room temperature. To be honest, it looks like I might have to replace it again anyway, seems to have a battery light on below 2k revs
Nice, seems to be the same model as my st4 building project. With italian bikes always use contact grease on connectors etc always been problematic In my experience ..........most bikes that stand still for over 10 years always get a malfunctioning rectifier over time, oil seals harden, tyres get wobly, filters deteriorate, and if they stood outside ....ppffff.
@@AshRowland Indeed lucky, saves a lot of time and money. I do believe all bikes between 1995 and 2010 are the best ones. After 20010 they started with gyro's and computing, some of them with a lot of malfunctions and reliabillity problems and in general more time and expenses to repair. Different connectors, pc programs etc.....Next year i'll have some time for my st4 project.Greetings from Belgium
Had the exact same thing happen on my ST2 in Andorra in 2002 a new rectifier cured it and a battery Ducatis like a well looked after battery, traded for a ST4 and did 30k odd without problems beyond regular services all over France Italy Germany etc 2 up with luggage smashed her up on a charity run 🤬 insurance and my pocket, I got a ST4S did 50k all over Europe over a 5 year period 2 up with luggage only problem being after as storm it would not rev ( no gutters in the south of France ) rode it a 40 mph to a bike shop lifted the tank and soaked everything in WD40 ran like a dream afterwards, the ST range are superb and reliable tourers and great in the alps the Pyrenees , sierra de estrella etc etc handling is superb, better economy than my mates vfr , Bandits, Fazers etc etc, and the noise to die for, but I always carried a genuine Ducati spare regulator and never ever needed it lol 😂 imho the best touring bike you can have and I’ve had a few inc BMW, boring and uncomfortable ( not the air heads they are brilliant ) Hondas boring, the only bike that came close to the joy of touring the Dukes was my Buells and possibly my ktm 690 great in the mountains, don’t listen to the na sayers they have probably never ridden a great bike like a Ducati …. Pete
Great stories mate! I've done about 80 miles on mine now and it's been great to be honest. I need to adjust the gear shifter down a bit because I can't bend my new boots up very well lol... sad you smashed the ST4 up, hope you didn't hurt yourself too bad, on the plus side you got to replace it with another one 😉
@@AshRowland no injuries just hurt pride and a pile of yellow fairing parts I was gutted, but like you said it got me the ST4S which had all the goodies on it from Ducati performance catalog Ohlins, mechasinnie ! (Spelling ) wheels, open top air box clutch etc etc we loved that bike, our first Ducati tourer was a 900SS ie with all the goodies on we did 13k on that in 2 tours including our longest ride Frejus st Raphael to Cherbourg in one hit 1100km in one hit, in 2008 I think, Ducatis like to be ridden, people listen to the hype and think they are fragile, they only become fragile if left in a garage and not ridden which happens to so many of them, there’s a bloke over here where I live who tours a 888strada 2 up luggage had it years and 90k km on the clock, regular oil changes and belt tensioner checks and no problems, I always used the best oil motorex and changed it out every 3-5000 miles and changed the belts every 2 years (always used Ducati belts don’t get sucked in to the aftermarket ones/ Renault) no good, keeping the oil fresh also keeps the valve shims in tolerance, always let her run for about 90 seconds before climbing on and riding a Ducati race mechanic told me that it takes that amount of time for oil to reach the top of the motor from the sump then you can rag it, I kick myself every time I see or normally hear first, a Ducati for getting rid of ours ( my wife had a 94 900SS ) I had the 900 ie and ST’s + a monster 750 and a 749 (but at different times) the 900ie I had for 13 years from new, great memories, now living in France with a RE350 classic 🤣 another involving ride …. Pete
@@PeterHolland-mu7yn I nearly bought a 900ss a while ago from Copart but once you add the fees and delivery costs it just wasn't worth it, it's really hard to find a decent spares or repairs Ducati for some reason, I'm guessing they're either just kept in a garage and not ridden, or they're smashed to pieces from accidents lol
Hi Ash, interestingly I've just seen a Facebook post where a guy has same issue as you with a gen 1 single phase ST2. He's saying his doesn't charge below 1600/1700 rpm. The interesting bit though, is that a guy with an ST4S chipped in saying he had the same issue and traced it to the fuel pump drawing too much power due to a blocked fuel filter . . . I'm wondering if the fuel pump relay would feel hot/warm while the bike is running if that were the case? I've posted a link on there to your latest vid, so maybe he'll chip in on here.
@@AshRowland I don't know if it's that - I'm just throwing it into the mix as a possibility. The filter's inside the tank. When you take the pump assembly out, it's held in by 3 bolts. In between the 3 bolts are 3 threaded holes. The idea is - take out the 3 bolts, then use 3 bolts (I think M8 but not 100% sure) that fit the 3 threaded holes, to wind the pump assembly out of the tank. You will need a new O ring for the pump assembly when replacing. I recommend ordering 2 in case the first one gets damaged during reassembly. When reassembling, put the o ring on the assembly (there's a groove for it) and then smear Vaseline around the orifice in the tank that the assembly goes into, and it will go in like a silken dream. DO NOT put Vaseline on the assembly or the o ring itself, as you will just be giving the o ring an excuse to slide off the pump assembly.
@@peterbee88 thanks mate, that sounds so much more complicated than I imagined it in my head, the filters on my FZR can be seen from the side of the bike 🤣
@@AshRowland It's a pita first time you do it, but after you've done it once, it's a doddle. It might be worth replacing the fuel hose while you're in there. I can't remember the specs, but there's a length of submersible fuel hose in the tank as well. Unless you budget is tight, in which case just leave it. Wash the tank out though with 2 or 3 washes of half a pint of fuel - doubtless it'll be filthy in there. I seal my tanks with POR-15, but I doubt you'll be hanging onto it for 20 years like I have with my ST's lol
@@AshRowland If you want a bike to be reliable you’ve got to fix all the previous owners bodges, update the thinks that could fail in the future, you can then just enjoy using it without worry. Most of the components on those older Ducatis can be purchsed, including connectors, so fairly simple to replace any damaged wires.
@@bryansuperduke1290r I replaced the soldered wires with a connector in the end rather than soldering them back together. I'll keep an eye on it but so far so good
Your Royal Mail order is probably still in the office because they don't have anybody to deliver it. They actually prioritise Tracked items (even though they're not supposed to 😉).
@@katywalker8322 Possible that their internals are higher rated to not need as much cooling. Yamaha have always taken reliability very seriously. But good point.
@@christianweller4288 , possible, although I have had to replace several of those Yamaha RRs! One of my Aprilias (AF1 Sintesi) I am thinking of fitting a Mosfet RR (for an R1) which will be massively over specified for what is required! I will need to file the mounting slots a small amount, but that should be easy.
I had a 750 SS, just as well I had a van as well, it never started when I wanted it to, beautiful when it ran, but it was like marrying a bipolar supermodel, too much stress
@AshRowland You know what mother said 'if you can say something interesting or funny, just leave a comment designed to boost the algorithm for a favoured TH-cam star'. She was weird. If you're reading this, I can only apologise.
Ho, ly, sh** Iam in the exact same boat!! 97, st 2, single phase generator, absolutely stupid Bike broke down, stator was cooked, R/R was cooked, replaced both, exact same situation as you Following so I can see if theres a resolution
I didn't show it but all I did was check the voltage at the battery while the bike was running and it was 14v so it seemed ok, it broke on the first ride out lol
Watched it again that is a Chinese regulator it’s not original OE is finned I’d change that out for an OE one do t quote me but a Honda dealer told me a fire blade one works, but get the finned OE one sorry missed it the first time around …. Pete
The '98 ST2 came with a single phase alternator with a non-finned regulator, the one I've put in is indeed not Ducati but I don't think the original one had fins either. 🤷♂️
@@AshRowland mine did I’m sure unless the replacement ones did not have fins, because mine ( even though bought 2nd hand from a Ducati dealer, had not had 2 important recalls done one was the drive sprocket retention plate and the other was the regulator, Ducati Andorra changed out my failed one for a second hand on they had changed out of a French ST which was running fine when it came in for the recall which got me home, they were both finned I’m sure, possibly talking out of my arse though it was 24 years ago and I’m an old fart now lol …. Pete
![PASULOL รามเกียรติ์ ตอนที่ 4 นนทกพบรัก [Ramakien Ep.4: Nonthok in love]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tMUQgmZzf_A/mqdefault.jpg)
Hard wire the rectifier directly to the battery with 12 gauge wire and a 30amp inline fuse… to the positive terminal. It’s a good way because you avoid the loom. As you have issues before it may help.
lol on YT there are many instructional videos on this.
Saved me a ton of hassle doing this. Good luck! 😊
Thanks, I'll be revisiting this at some point definitely 👍
So pleased to see your optimism, the Italian biks have never had a reputation of having a flawless electric wiring.
I do hope that you will enjoy the bike for what it is made for, sunny days and small winding roads 😊👍😊
Oh boy you're right... went to see my mum earlier and she lives out in the sticks with the most amazing country roads
As a former owner of a 1999 st2 I can tell you, that you will be changing that rectifier/regulator every year.. I owned my st2 for 4 years and replaced it 3 times. Even changed it for a 916 model that was built on the right side next to the battery. For more cooling...good luck. Riding the bike is a blast though!
Thanks mate, yea, if I'm being honest then I'd say that I don't think the one I've put on is perfect lol
It's literally the only RR I've ever seen without cooling fins. Seems like only the Japanese know how to make charging systems.
@@truantrayyep, the Japanese make it functional, the Italians just make it look nice, functional is an unexpected side effect.
@@mattyb7736 🤣
@@mattyb7736 no man, see the old honda cbr for example. their voltage regulator, I think they're Denso, they're a real disaster, same thing with Transalp.
Stator voltage is fine but sometimes the insulation breaks down and doesn’t supply sufficient power. Meg it or at least check all circuits for earth leakage
The electrex RR’s are crap and will fail again, get a decent Shindengen mosfet and wire it directly to the battery avoiding all the standard cables - you need an in line fuse as well tho.
Yea, it would seem they're not too popular with some... I'll definitely be revisiting this again lol
Those Electrex World regulator rectifiers don't have a particularly good reputation - I went through a couple when I had issues a few years ago with my 98 VFR800. Ended up with a 2nd hand MOSFET R/R from a low mileage Street Triple R and hard wired the stator to the R/R.
Ah, that might explain why it now has a working battery light, but stays on below 2k revs 🤣
Really enjoyed that video too, well done. Bike looks loads better with all that Matt black paint removed from silencers and footpeg hangers.
Thanks mate, I agree, the way the black paint is still at the bottom of the engraving looks quite good I think, makes the writing stand out
Have a look for the solder joint kits, they use a heat gun to melt the solder in a heat shrink sleeve, seen them used on other channels and seem to work fine
Ah cool, will check it out, thanks mate
I think the light staying on is because your battery is a touch low due to all the start stop stuff, it will probably settle once you ride the bike a sensible distance.
Hopefully, seems to go off over 2k revs, hopefully its the second hand RR thats the problem and I don't need to change the stator
Electrex really know their stuff - think and hope you should be OK now.
I hope so, they seem to get mixed reviews though
As some have said, the stock rec/reg in that location is prone to overheat. On my 98 ST2 I put a mosfet reg/rec that has built in fins and cut a piece of that under cowl to insure fresh air flowing on it. You loose the warning light on the dash, but since I ftted a usb plug with voltage readout in the dash panel instead, this didn't matter.
I've ordered a second regulator with fins to replace it with once it breaks 🤣 I definitely want to fit a small volt meter
I have had to change out my regulator rectifier 2 times over 5 years. Just seems to be a st2 97 to 98 thing single phase generator. I think the make you have us one of the best for the job. You do not need to relocate it. It has a massive heatsink area.
Thanks mate, It seems to get mixed reviews to be honest... I've got another I've ordered for when it dies 🤣
Super job as usual 👍
Thank you mate
Well done mate, you're doing a good job. If you want to tame that clutch dowm, make the bike more ridable and mitigate any serious damage you should check out my Ducati dry clutch playlist. Cheers, Andy.
Thanks Andy, I'll be binge watching that later 👍
Beautiful bad ass FZR in the background. I'm a fan of the 89/90 (never owned one though) model but the yellow paintjob on that 87 makes it looks way better. I know they are classics but I never liked the red and white paint scheme.
Thanks mate, i think that's going to be my favourite once it's done, check it out on my channel mate
@@AshRowland I will definitely 👍😁
About the Ducati video, this is exactly what I just did to my Busa, but I swapped connectors and fitted a Mosfet regulator. (FH020BA)
It's on ZZR1400, GSXR 1000 etc etc
I love the first gen 87/88 FZR1000s, they look better than the later ones to me, I watched them dominate in racing down here in the southern hemisphere, by the time the EXUP came out the 750s and the OW01 had taken over racing duties. I’ve almost finished the restoration of my own 87, just the paintwork to do, red/white of course. 😀
@@uhtred7860 my favourite paint scheme is the blue and white from '87, I'll probably keep this yellow though
@@AshRowland The Blue white “Sonauto” colours nearly got the nod for mine, but it came from the factory in the red/white so I thought I’d keep it original.
A lot of owners fit a tiny volt meter for added security. The battery light coming on at low rpm is normal. My sons did that all the time.
Seems like a great idea to be honest, that way I could see what it's producing below 2k when the battery light comes on
Looks really good without all of that black paint peeling off it, nice job! For charging system checks other than isolated component resistance testing I probe the back of the connectors at the appropriate pin to see what the voltages are with everything plugged in and running.
A word or 3 about keeping it stock- be careful with that philosophy. It works brilliantly for Japanese bikes, not so much for Italian bikes. I speak from experience. Can be a PITA, but I enjoy improving the stock shortcomings so it is a bit fun for me. I say embrace it and make it better than stock when necessary.
Thanks James... the pins in the plug I wanted to test were weatherproof sealed and I couldn't really get in there... I like stock, but I also like making improvements... I don't like breaking down 🤣
I had an st2 with electrical problems. Everything was changed, lasted about a month. Then phut ! Rectifier/regulator blown. My brother had a Harley one spare. Put it on, and problem solved. Did over 40,000 miles on the bike no problem. The Harley one had huge capacity which solved the problem.
oooh, I definitely look into that, I'm not sure how long this one will last 🤣
That engine sounds rough mate. 😮
It doesn't sound great, mainly to do with the dry clutch I reckon
Yes. This make of rectifier will show battery light on at low tickover.
Oh really? Thats normal? ok cool
Good job finding the issue , them exhaust silencers look mile's better now you have got the black off them 👍
Thanks mate, I'm really happy with them
You knew it wasn't going to be easy as that😂. Carry on ash.👍😁
Haha thanks Ray
You can test voltage just in parallel (back probe the connector). For the RR test, just have it connected to the battery and check the voltage over the battery (running the bike with the RR disconnected from the battery will force it to push ALL the power to earth).
Ahhh thanks, I was waiting for this answer 😊 I was wondering why I wasn't getting readings that make sense 🤣
In the mid 90s I finally had enough saved to buy a Ducati, not a 916, which is what I wanted, but a 750SS, what began was the worst experience in bike ownership I have ever had😂, the dealer bought it back after 6 months under the “lemon law” I swear that bike was cursed, everything that could go wrong, went wrong. The final straw was the engine self destructing as the mechanic warmed it up for a test ride after yet another stay in the workshop.☹️
Oh dear... looking to by an ST2 by any chance? 🤣 I'd love a 996 or 748 but the prices are mental, I can't even find any abandoned ones!
@@AshRowland Yeah they are pretty crazy here in NZ too, bike prices in general are insane here, especially anything 80s and 2 stroke, guys are asking 40,000- 50,000 NZ dollars for RZ500s RG500s and NS400s😳😆. The previous govt had the brilliant idea of making it so any bikes brought into the country, that were manufactured after 1989 had to have anti-lock brakes fitted, before it could be registered for the road🙄😡 They clearly never consulted anyone in the industry as anti-lock brakes were rare on bikes right up to the 2000s. There is a waiver you can apply for but it costs money and the bike has to meet certain criteria. This stupid law has pushed the price of old bikes up, and made importing bikes very expensive. I see the prices some bikes in the UK go for (mainly 80s 90s ones) and almost feint, they go for up to a quarter of what we pay for them.😀
@@uhtred7860 80s 2 stroke in the UK are rare and expensive. I'd love an 80s 2-stroke 250 but they are crazy money for what they are. That's mad, my 1999 Hayabusa doesn't even have ABS 🤣 in fact, the only bike I ever rode with ABS was a Suzuki Gladius that I learnt on 🤣
Good evening Ash and Kate i love watching your TH-cam videos on your TH-cam channel
I hope both of you are well and Ash are you enjoying the build of your new motorbike
please say hi to Kate I do miss her not being on your TH-cam videos please keep safe and warm and please keep up your good work on your you tube channel cheers ash keep going you make me smile
Thank you 😃 I've now got an action camera so I'll be recording first rides very soon!
Its a Italian bike lots of elektrick fun work 😁👍
Yea, just got the fast flashing indicators to sort now 👍
The bike looks really nice now
Thanks mate, I agree 😊
Similar problem to me on my vtr 1000 on my channel baddz garage all sorted now replaced mine with a reg/rec from an R1
Yea, looks like you had a bad battery too 👍
the ac voltage test is largely irrelevant. they'll still produce the required ac voltage, but if you fit a little rectifier wired directly to the battery with a bad stator it won't make dc voltage.
the single phase charging system was used on everything pre 98 (99 on water cooled models). that little flat voltage reg was unique though to the st2. often rubbish. otherwise the same as others of the same year. later shindengan sh579b in the air duct is much better. you lose the charge light, some have a real issue with that.
disconnected from the battery, there is no load on the reg. just doesn't work. hooked up and measuring battery volage as you did is the way to do it.
you know it's probably going to be the voltage regulator. but you need to start at the start by testing the alternator, then move through the system.
Thanks mate, I do like the little battery light working, but it seems to be on at anything below 2k revs lol, it would seem that these RRs aren't very durable 🤣 I'm thinking of installing a small discrete voltage meter somewhere so I know what's happened 😀
@@AshRowland i think they're just an irrelevant distraction myself. i'd use the later 3 phase one and lose the light and concern. or a mosfet fh020 from a very late model. those unique st2 97/98 regs were dodgy.
Limp mode & Ducatis are best mates.
Not sure about limp mode, this went straight into push mode 🤣
@@AshRowland Ha’h .. 🤣. Bypassed limp & went straight there .. that’s no good mate ..
good luck , perseverance is essential with these ferking motorbikes.
@@queenslander954 Thanks mate
well done Ash , by the way what that song playing at the end your videos ? cheers :-)
I think TH-cam automatically puts it in the video description, its Guess I'll Never Know by Tracktribe, available in the TH-cam Audio Library
FIRST! Check the big orange fuse near the battery. This is the charging fuse!
Thanks mate, fuse is fine 👍
Royal FAIL are 💩. Good to see the bike running again Ash. 👍.
🤣 thanks mate... first ride video soon!
You can get a clutch quietening plate that goes in the bottom of the stack.
Yes, please. Novice here. If I put two big rocks in a 45 gallon drum and rolled it down the Hardknott Pass with my eyes shut, could I pretend I had a classic Ducati?
More seriously, I'd try to get as much wind as possible around any reg/rec, rather than rely on thermal conductivity on a metal to metal interface.
You either like the clutch rattle or you don't, I really miss hearing it on my current bike, but I like the agricultural feel of those old L twins
🤣 I never realised the clutch rattle was a marmite situation 🤣 @roadbull @chrislee7817
That's not stock location for Reg/Rec.
Stock location on later models is inside that scoop where you had your hand while you were fitting the nut/bolt.
Location on earlier bikes was down by the motor.
Yours has been relocated to a position underneath the scoop.
Possibly because it's too big to fit inside the scoop.
Inside the scoop is best location, as it gets fresh cool air from in front of the bike.
The position of yours looks to be protected from the fresh cool air by the little bit of chin fairing (which I think has probably been trimmed back so the reg/rec could be fitted)
Stock reg/rec has cooling fins much like on the cylinders of an air cooled engine.
Nope that is the standard location for the early bikes too - I have one of the first a Cagiva era 1997
@@Farlig69
Underneath the scoop?
I stand corrected - I thought it was by the engine.
I have a 2001 ST4 and 2003 ST4S and they're both inside the scoop.
I just assumed that whoever had fitted the replacement reg/rec had relocated it there.
Inside the scoop make more sense to be honest, the more cooling the better... I put my hand on it after running the bike for a while and it was basically room temperature. To be honest, it looks like I might have to replace it again anyway, seems to have a battery light on below 2k revs
Nice, seems to be the same model as my st4 building project. With italian bikes always use contact grease on connectors etc always been problematic In my experience ..........most bikes that stand still for over 10 years always get a malfunctioning rectifier over time, oil seals harden, tyres get wobly, filters deteriorate, and if they stood outside ....ppffff.
Luckily mine was only standing since May so seems to be ok, fork seals are good, much to my relief 😊
@@AshRowland Indeed lucky, saves a lot of time and money. I do believe all bikes between 1995 and 2010 are the best ones. After 20010 they started with gyro's and computing, some of them with a lot of malfunctions and reliabillity problems and in general more time and expenses to repair. Different connectors, pc programs etc.....Next year i'll have some time for my st4 project.Greetings from Belgium
I have put a volt meter on the dash so can always check
I intend on doing this too!
Had the exact same thing happen on my ST2 in Andorra in 2002 a new rectifier cured it and a battery Ducatis like a well looked after battery, traded for a ST4 and did 30k odd without problems beyond regular services all over France Italy Germany etc 2 up with luggage smashed her up on a charity run 🤬 insurance and my pocket, I got a ST4S did 50k all over Europe over a 5 year period 2 up with luggage only problem being after as storm it would not rev ( no gutters in the south of France ) rode it a 40 mph to a bike shop lifted the tank and soaked everything in WD40 ran like a dream afterwards, the ST range are superb and reliable tourers and great in the alps the Pyrenees , sierra de estrella etc etc handling is superb, better economy than my mates vfr , Bandits, Fazers etc etc, and the noise to die for, but I always carried a genuine Ducati spare regulator and never ever needed it lol 😂 imho the best touring bike you can have and I’ve had a few inc BMW, boring and uncomfortable ( not the air heads they are brilliant ) Hondas boring, the only bike that came close to the joy of touring the Dukes was my Buells and possibly my ktm 690 great in the mountains, don’t listen to the na sayers they have probably never ridden a great bike like a Ducati …. Pete
Great stories mate! I've done about 80 miles on mine now and it's been great to be honest. I need to adjust the gear shifter down a bit because I can't bend my new boots up very well lol... sad you smashed the ST4 up, hope you didn't hurt yourself too bad, on the plus side you got to replace it with another one 😉
@@AshRowland no injuries just hurt pride and a pile of yellow fairing parts I was gutted, but like you said it got me the ST4S which had all the goodies on it from Ducati performance catalog Ohlins, mechasinnie ! (Spelling ) wheels, open top air box clutch etc etc we loved that bike, our first Ducati tourer was a 900SS ie with all the goodies on we did 13k on that in 2 tours including our longest ride Frejus st Raphael to Cherbourg in one hit 1100km in one hit, in 2008 I think, Ducatis like to be ridden, people listen to the hype and think they are fragile, they only become fragile if left in a garage and not ridden which happens to so many of them, there’s a bloke over here where I live who tours a 888strada 2 up luggage had it years and 90k km on the clock, regular oil changes and belt tensioner checks and no problems, I always used the best oil motorex and changed it out every 3-5000 miles and changed the belts every 2 years (always used Ducati belts don’t get sucked in to the aftermarket ones/ Renault) no good, keeping the oil fresh also keeps the valve shims in tolerance, always let her run for about 90 seconds before climbing on and riding a Ducati race mechanic told me that it takes that amount of time for oil to reach the top of the motor from the sump then you can rag it, I kick myself every time I see or normally hear first, a Ducati for getting rid of ours ( my wife had a 94 900SS ) I had the 900 ie and ST’s + a monster 750 and a 749 (but at different times) the 900ie I had for 13 years from new, great memories, now living in France with a RE350 classic 🤣 another involving ride …. Pete
@@PeterHolland-mu7yn I nearly bought a 900ss a while ago from Copart but once you add the fees and delivery costs it just wasn't worth it, it's really hard to find a decent spares or repairs Ducati for some reason, I'm guessing they're either just kept in a garage and not ridden, or they're smashed to pieces from accidents lol
Has it got belts and have you changed them Ash.
Yes it has and no I haven't... yet 😉
@@AshRowland oh shit 💩
@@dereklucas8420 🤣 don't panic, they were done about 8k miles ago, I'll do them at some point soon
@@AshRowland I’m only messing with you pal. You’re doing a fine job. Love watching your vids.
@@dereklucas8420 Haha, I got that, thanks mate 👍 😃
Hi Ash, interestingly I've just seen a Facebook post where a guy has same issue as you with a gen 1 single phase ST2.
He's saying his doesn't charge below 1600/1700 rpm.
The interesting bit though, is that a guy with an ST4S chipped in saying he had the same issue and traced it to the fuel pump drawing too much power due to a blocked fuel filter . . .
I'm wondering if the fuel pump relay would feel hot/warm while the bike is running if that were the case?
I've posted a link on there to your latest vid, so maybe he'll chip in on here.
Oooh, thanks mate, I'll have a look at the filter on the bike and see the temperature of the pump relay 👍
@@AshRowland
I don't know if it's that - I'm just throwing it into the mix as a possibility.
The filter's inside the tank.
When you take the pump assembly out, it's held in by 3 bolts.
In between the 3 bolts are 3 threaded holes.
The idea is - take out the 3 bolts, then use 3 bolts (I think M8 but not 100% sure) that fit the 3 threaded holes, to wind the pump assembly out of the tank.
You will need a new O ring for the pump assembly when replacing.
I recommend ordering 2 in case the first one gets damaged during reassembly.
When reassembling, put the o ring on the assembly (there's a groove for it) and then smear Vaseline around the orifice in the tank that the assembly goes into, and it will go in like a silken dream.
DO NOT put Vaseline on the assembly or the o ring itself, as you will just be giving the o ring an excuse to slide off the pump assembly.
@@peterbee88 thanks mate, that sounds so much more complicated than I imagined it in my head, the filters on my FZR can be seen from the side of the bike 🤣
@@AshRowland
It's a pita first time you do it, but after you've done it once, it's a doddle.
It might be worth replacing the fuel hose while you're in there.
I can't remember the specs, but there's a length of submersible fuel hose in the tank as well.
Unless you budget is tight, in which case just leave it.
Wash the tank out though with 2 or 3 washes of half a pint of fuel - doubtless it'll be filthy in there.
I seal my tanks with POR-15, but I doubt you'll be hanging onto it for 20 years like I have with my ST's lol
No surprise with the bodged wiring you don’t fix properly.
Lol, I'll be readdressing that at some point, it did what I could with what I had available at the time
@@AshRowland If you want a bike to be reliable you’ve got to fix all the previous owners bodges, update the thinks that could fail in the future, you can then just enjoy using it without worry.
Most of the components on those older Ducatis can be purchsed, including connectors, so fairly simple to replace any damaged wires.
@@bryansuperduke1290r I replaced the soldered wires with a connector in the end rather than soldering them back together. I'll keep an eye on it but so far so good
Your Royal Mail order is probably still in the office because they don't have anybody to deliver it. They actually prioritise Tracked items (even though they're not supposed to 😉).
I think it's well and truly lost, still says its in Midlands sorting office. I ordered a new one direct from DJI in the end 🤣
Yeah they'll do that. Lovely to ride..
I agree 👍 😃
Is this really a Ducati or any BMC/BL car from the 60's to 80's? They all did that with the battery light!
🤣 probably the latter
Only Ducati could spec a rectifier with no cooling fins…… I’m guessing the phrase “belt and braces” hasn’t yet permeated Bologna.
Loads of Yamahas have RRs which do not have any fins
🤣
@@katywalker8322 Possible that their internals are higher rated to not need as much cooling. Yamaha have always taken reliability very seriously. But good point.
@@christianweller4288 , possible, although I have had to replace several of those Yamaha RRs!
One of my Aprilias (AF1 Sintesi) I am thinking of fitting a Mosfet RR (for an R1) which will be massively over specified for what is required! I will need to file the mounting slots a small amount, but that should be easy.
@@katywalker8322 Belt, braces and skyhooks. 👍
Hopefully it was downhill when you had to push it home!😁
flat ground fortunately, not uphill 🤣
My 98 ST2 is exactly the same - battery light is on until revs increase.
Ah cool, so it is a Ducati thing then 🤣
Ditch the reg get a finned three faced one place it in the air scoop.
That's a good backup plan, it seems to be ok at the minute
Why would they have a reg rectifier without fins for cooling as well
Who knows 🤣
I had a 750 SS, just as well I had a van as well, it never started when I wanted it to, beautiful when it ran, but it was like marrying a bipolar supermodel, too much stress
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@AshRowland You know what mother said 'if you can say something interesting or funny, just leave a comment designed to boost the algorithm for a favoured TH-cam star'. She was weird. If you're reading this, I can only apologise.
@@cabbage64 🤣🤣🤣 appreciate it mate
It's a Ducati....Next time you ride it, something else will crap out.. which will be a constant in your life until you throw it in the canal. ;)
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Sounds like a bag of spanners.....if you want yo know what it should sound like. I have a vid of my 916 on my channel
Wow, that does sound amazing!
@@AshRowland thanks, the arrow cans help.
Ho, ly, sh**
Iam in the exact same boat!! 97, st 2, single phase generator, absolutely stupid
Bike broke down, stator was cooked, R/R was cooked, replaced both, exact same situation as you
Following so I can see if theres a resolution
I've got a theory that something is pulling more current than it should, I'm just not sure what at this point 🤔
@@AshRowland take your meter and plug it into each fuse holder and see what each circuit is drawing
But you didn’t test the charging system b4 riding it.
I didn't show it but all I did was check the voltage at the battery while the bike was running and it was 14v so it seemed ok, it broke on the first ride out lol
Get a Japanese bike Honda or Yamaha. Legendary reliability.
I have 2 of them 🤣
Fix it and get rid of it before it breaks again 😂some things never change I guess, wop bikes still have shite electrics 😂😂😂
🤣 You looking to buy a Ducati ST2? I know a guy
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Haha thanks mate 👍
Watched it again that is a Chinese regulator it’s not original OE is finned I’d change that out for an OE one do t quote me but a Honda dealer told me a fire blade one works, but get the finned OE one sorry missed it the first time around …. Pete
The '98 ST2 came with a single phase alternator with a non-finned regulator, the one I've put in is indeed not Ducati but I don't think the original one had fins either. 🤷♂️
@@AshRowland mine did I’m sure unless the replacement ones did not have fins, because mine ( even though bought 2nd hand from a Ducati dealer, had not had 2 important recalls done one was the drive sprocket retention plate and the other was the regulator, Ducati Andorra changed out my failed one for a second hand on they had changed out of a French ST which was running fine when it came in for the recall which got me home, they were both finned I’m sure, possibly talking out of my arse though it was 24 years ago and I’m an old fart now lol …. Pete
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