I wouldn't bother stripping the engine. Just get her running reliably. Sort carbs, leave original airbox on. Clean her up and ride it. Engine sounds great.
Good News Ash. As I mentioned on your last video, run that bike and the smoke will likely get less the more you run it. Its not uncommon for the rings to stick a bit on these old bikes when they sit along time. My advice is run it, run it, run it, and then re check your compression before you dive head-long into an expensive engine tear down. Pull the engine and clean it up , restore the rest of the bike and chuck the engine back in and ride it.
The thing you asked about is the camshaft chain tensioner, the o-ring has obviously perished. The auto CCT's can also fail and due to the bikes age and history I'd replace the whole thing, consider replacing it with a manual tensioner as I did on my 9r.
used to have a GPX600R project. The thing you turned is the cam-tensioner. it misses a bolt to seal it. that may also explain the misfire/non-working cylinders. also, there are only fumes coming from the right exhaust. left seems clear. you have some excess burn in the right-cylinders as it looks
Well done Ash, a good bit of progress there. I did all the same kind of work on a 33 year old zzr1100 last summer and it is now as good as new, I already had a lot of tools because I have renovated lots of bikes over the years but with my latest project I bought an ultrasonic cleaner, a brake caliper piston removal kit ( my favourite tool of the year) and a brake bleeding kit and quite honestly I really don’t know how I have done without all three of these for the last 30 odd years. I really am enjoying watching these videos keep em coming.
I've just put a replacement ZZR1100 engine in my kit car but this one runs poor cold but very well when up to temperature. I have no idea why. Any clues
I'll put all three of those things on my shopping list. I can't wait to ride this thing! Well done to you for doing the same thing, I'm self taught and am learning every time I work on the bike, thanks for watching and I'm glad you're enjoying the content 😀
Almost forgot: I'd buy new air box to carb rubber stubs, the old ones are rock hard and impossible to refit, you can try boiling them and fitting whilst still hot, last ones I bought were £40...well worth it! I recommend keeping the standard aitbox, maybe add a K&N filter, those carbs don't like non standard at all!
@@AshRowland 'when I was a lad' I couldn't afford such luxuries! We'd spend hours boiling the old stubs, then adding a blowlamp just for good luck...what a nightmare! 🤣
Hi About 10 years ago I suddenly had to get a bike again, I found an 85 gpz 750r I we t saw I test rode and as I was paying for it the guy said you realise this has the 1000rx motor. I still have it handles great and goes even better. the 750 900 and 1000 motors share a lot of common components including the chain tensioner and externally they are dimensionally the same. Maybe the best motor kawasaki made
Hi Ash, well done. Firing on all cylinders now. As others have stated Kawasaki chokes are s…, from cold full choke, keep fingers on choke ready as it will rev it ti.s off, soon as it starts reduce choke immediately, not so far to stall. Wire the coils correctly. The coolant leak from broken plastic bottle is the recall from Kawasaki to fix carb icing. Junk circuit,it’s ugly and you only need it if you ride below 5degrees C. Do not strip engine unless you have money to burn, why do it, sounds ok to me. Check the brakes it will have sucked in loads of water, I didn’t look what year it is, if it’s got anti dive it will have all siezed up, it’s repairable but tricky, you can blank it off. Replace chain tensioner.
Thanks buddy... I've replaced the tensioner now, the thread the bolt goes into was ripped out, guessing someone did it up too tight... I'm going to leave the engine for now, your right, its running just fine
As already mentioned below, Kawasaki chokes(of that era) always rev like mad from cold. The lever is not linear at all. Early water cooled design so they do run hot, lots of owners fit a manual fan switch and/or different thermostat
These bikes boil over when hot, say stuck in traffic or hot weather, most owners fit an override switch, check online to see how, has to wired right so the can still works automatically...I can't remember how!and the coils are wired 1&3 on one, 2&4 the other. The 12v wire red leads to the + connectors.
Cam chain tensioners always fail. New genuine ones are about £80, or you can fit a manual conversion which is basically a bolt you tighten until it sounds right! I've had 5 of these, now got a gtr1000, same engine base, and a zzr1200: love them all! Make sure you plug the vacuum tube on the carbs, when using a jockey tank, the hose is to open the fuel tap when the engine is running. You can switch the gap to 'prime' which allows fuel to run all the time, good to refill the carbs if the bikes been stood unused. Don't leave on prime! It'll fill the cylinders with petrol then hydro lock it...very bad! The fuel tap has a diagphram and spring which fail then floods the engine, new bits are about £20: I give the spring a little stretch to increase pressure. If you get fuel running out of the air box you can be pretty sure the diaphragm has split...don't try starting it!
@@AshRowland Sounds like you've already found all the bad bits! Here's another...don't just remove the antidive units and blank off the forks, you will lock them up! You will soon have a cracking bike, they are superb sports tourers, and plenty quick enough. I fitted a ZZR600 front end, straight swap and you get a 17" tyre. But once the antidive is working, its pretty good, just a problem finding tyres.
That's running quite nicely now, good job. Looks as though you've a sound bike to restore, it'll be great when it's done, very sexy bike, encouraging me to get on with my GPZ1000RX - too many projects and not enough time mate
Двигатель ожил и это главное) Теперь все сальники в двигатели и О-ринги под замену как ты делал это в карбюраторах. Но я бы вскрыл головку блока цилиндра и поменял сальники клапанов. Отличная работа 👍🏻слежу за тобой)
I must apologise that I have not been able to view for a while so I am now on catchup: I found the camchain tensioner from a zzr1100 to be the best replacement; the fragility of the coolant sight bulb indicates both age but also that the previous owner had resorted to water, flush the whole system & obviously you will not make the mistake of using only water as it corrodes internally & coolant does not ; grab a new higher pressure radiator cap while at it as with an updated thermostat which helps with coolant overflow but I would back the recommendstion of others & fit a manual override switch to your fan & mount it through your upper fairing inserts. While at that, I recommend fitting s hidden kill switch of your own to frustraye any would be vermin from nicking this beaut. (I keep looking at my own Polaris Blue A2 in its forlorn state & await to see what, or if, you decide upon any bodywork improvements but dreadfully costly & I am constantly searching for respectable replacements for my own.
Hey Brad, no worries, I don't expect anyone to watch this rubbish anyway 🤣 ill make sure I use coolant and fit a fan override switch somewhere, also I like the idea of a hidden immobiliser switch, good shout! I probably won't show that on the videos though 🤣
Sounding good Ash. It's got Motad headers and collector which is good. If you discard the carb heater circuit you'll need to fit larger main jets. Can't wait for the next episode!
Hi there ash, pleased to see you are back fella missed seeing your posts, and you are very welcome for the parcel really hope it is good, keep smiling and having fun 🎉
Tensioner is a known problem, apart from leakiing oil if not complete😂😂. Zzr1100, I think, but don't hold me to it!! Is a direct replacement, its ratcheted, so can't back out, unlike the stock item.
Nice work! I hope we can see more new videos soon, I also bought a GPZ 900 some moths back in a similar situation as yours, is my project for the next year, or more 😂
My mate had 2 of these & those engines are pretty much bulletproof, by the sound of yours I'd say the engine is a good one so a rebuild is probably not needed. Seems weird that the camchain tensioner was missing the bolt that I'd assume goes into the hole & seals the o ring, although I am speculating as it's been many years since I last saw one up close. I'd probably give the engine a partial strip like covers etc & have them painted up & put back on again while the frames being powder coated.
Also its a really good to turn the fuel off and run it dry before you park the bike for long periods i run mine dry every time im done riding it stops the floats from sticking
I have a 1984 GPZ900R A1 model. Last time I ran it up, it ran sweet. I also did a compression test and each cylinder was 185psi. My one didn't emit blue smoke.
The A1 had a unique fault! The rear shocker upper mounting bolt is only 10mm, and they wear down and shear. Changed to 12mm from A2 onwards, keep an eye on it!
I would refer to CD manual as regards the oil filter assembly, dish shaped part goes at bottom not on top, may effect oil circulation. Well done getting her running
As others have said, cam chain tensioner on one side of the engine. Should be a bolt and an O ring on the end to seal it. The coils do have a + / - sign on each terminal. Hence the reds should go to the right hand / +ve terminals. There is a theoretical difference. Practically when both ends of the coil have an HT lead I am not sure the difference is real
That thing on the right side if the engine that is leaking oil and you poked with a screwdriver is your cam chain tensioner. You might find that it is best to do the minimum to make it run properly why rebuild the engine it's running on all 4 some carfull attention to the ignition system and strip clean and tune the carbs running it ride it and then evaluate. From my small screen it looks and sounds not bad and probably needs more attention to the cosmetics than to the mechanics. Above all have fun
I’m sure others have probably said this already but just get it road legal and ride it 👍.Way too far gone to make a restoration economically viable 🙈😂!!
Excellent stuff… I’d say the rings have all now come free and any WD 40 you squirted down the bores has burnt off so no smoke. Nice Purr on the engine there too. So do you really need to strip the engine down …is there a potential gearbox issue as the engine side sounds like it’s doing ok ?
Your right, I think I'll leave the engine for now... I have no idea about the gearbox as the clutch fluid is empty so can't engage gear while it's running. It'll select 1 and 2 with the engine off but then I can't start it without it being I'm neutral lol
Balance your carbs and the temp should stabilise, do your cam chain tensioner, run the engine as it is, sounds sweet. Looks like you just had a stuck ring that has come around as they sometimes do. I would ride it before you strip the engine, may as well know if the gearbox and clutch are any good - if it was me.... I wouldnt rebuild the engine just yet, but I know you are going for a full restore, but that engine wont sound any better than it does after a rebuild - but then again I only do Honda bikes
I'm thinking the same thing to be honest... the clutch had no fluid in it so I can't pull it in to put it into gear when its running. It'll go into 1st and second with the engine off but then I can't start it lol. Completely forgot about balancing carbs to be honest, your right, that should sort the temp out 👍
@@AshRowland ya she did if u do it a few times. Like 3 or more piston rings get better. I k is it sounds weird but the rings expand differently. Different metals u can clear out rings seats this way. Bigger smaller a few times expand Differently. After a few times pushes out junk. I don’t think u need to pull that motor apart. Honestly. I should have explained better lol
Just a thought, you haven,t actually ridden it yet,would it be a smart idea to make sure it is a good riding machine before you paint it and make it look good!
What I really meant was,fix everything,get it running well over the summer,new tyres etc,then take it apart for painting.From experience from my own gpz, l had it apart so many times especially with the fuel tank and the super tight airbox,it is near impossible to not chip the new paintwork.
@@AshRowland hey Ash if you put a table spoon of two stroke oil in a gallon of petrol. It will protect your cylinders pistons loosen your rings You’ll have less friction and it’s not enough oil to make it smoke I do it with mine.
@@AshRowland Ash your carbs leaking. That the air intakes for One is slow jet another the air for choke. So something is blocked I know you’ve cleaned everything but it only takes a bit of dust. I think z power has the carb clamps you need
ahhhh, I see whats happened here... Bad editing on my part, sorry. I use my phone to make the videos and when using the front camera it records it backwards, like all phones do, and there are a couple of shots towards the end of the video that I forgot to flip around 😃 Well spotted though
Maybe I am losing my marbles but for most of the video the cam chain tunnel and tensioner are on the left hand side of the bike but towards the end they are on the right hand side. The coolant reservoir and rear master cylinder seem to have swapped sides too. I've watched the end several times. Please tell me I don't need to go and see a neurologist....
Sorry, bad editing 🤣 I missed a couple of clips where I forgot to flip the video round as the front facing camera records backwards, like @wannadie66 said
Yepp. Difficult to find new, GPZ forums might be able to help. Edit: Ah, he found it :D Either way, I'd recommend to swap the radiator cap. Old ones don't hold pressure.....
@@AshRowland Mine looked pristine as well; cooked over on the way back from the TÜV (german MOT). On Amazon I bought Blue Print ADC49902 for less than a tenner 4 years ago, still holding :)
Please don't go don't the typical youtube road of posting super imposed pictures and comments just to get someone to click on it. That will wear out very quickly and your channel will be over
@@bananabrooks3836 strange, I've only got 2 comments that are waiting for review which are very offensive so they won't be published lol, haven't seen anything from you, but I always appreciate constructive criticism, TH-cam only filters out offensive comments and swear words automatically
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I wouldn't bother stripping the engine. Just get her running reliably. Sort carbs, leave original airbox on. Clean her up and ride it. Engine sounds great.
I think you're right 👍
@@AshRowlandyeah definitely let it run a bit before committing to a rebuild. It seems to be running strong
The bike will run a lot better with the air box back on.
You stuck your screwdriver into the Cam chain tensioner old chap
AND HE HAS A 'KIN MANUAL.
Yea, I've no idea how the bolt head snapped off! I've ordered a replacement
@@AshRowland the bolt may be just a cap
Good News Ash.
As I mentioned on your last video, run that bike and the smoke will likely get less the more you run it. Its not uncommon for the rings to stick a bit on these old bikes when they sit along time.
My advice is run it, run it, run it, and then re check your compression before you dive head-long into an expensive engine tear down.
Pull the engine and clean it up , restore the rest of the bike and chuck the engine back in and ride it.
You were right and I think that might be the plan now!
Definitely what I would do
Just needed to heat up the rings to reseat them. The bikes really coming around! Great work!
Thanks mate, lets hope so, can't wait to ride it!
The thing you asked about is the camshaft chain tensioner, the o-ring has obviously perished. The auto CCT's can also fail and due to the bikes age and history I'd replace the whole thing, consider replacing it with a manual tensioner as I did on my 9r.
There’s also a bolt in the back of the chain tensioner. If your lulling the motor replace the timing chain, guides and tensioner.
I found a replacement used one on eBay that'll do for now, changing for a manual one is a great idea to be honest
@@johnblack9037 The chain and guides will likely be fine, they can easily last 100k miles+, so will depend on mileage, and condition after inspection.
Those cam tensioners is bad have to do a manual one. Replace the chain and the guides makes a world of difference.
used to have a GPX600R project.
The thing you turned is the cam-tensioner. it misses a bolt to seal it. that may also explain the misfire/non-working cylinders.
also, there are only fumes coming from the right exhaust. left seems clear. you have some excess burn in the right-cylinders as it looks
Cylinder 4 was the one with low compression so that might be causing it
Well done Ash, a good bit of progress there. I did all the same kind of work on a 33 year old zzr1100 last summer and it is now as good as new, I already had a lot of tools because I have renovated lots of bikes over the years but with my latest project I bought an ultrasonic cleaner, a brake caliper piston removal kit ( my favourite tool of the year) and a brake bleeding kit and quite honestly I really don’t know how I have done without all three of these for the last 30 odd years. I really am enjoying watching these videos keep em coming.
I've just put a replacement ZZR1100 engine in my kit car but this one runs poor cold but very well when up to temperature. I have no idea why. Any clues
I'll put all three of those things on my shopping list. I can't wait to ride this thing! Well done to you for doing the same thing, I'm self taught and am learning every time I work on the bike, thanks for watching and I'm glad you're enjoying the content 😀
@@markjones4572 have you got the choke set up and working correctly, assuming you have got original carbs fitted?
Almost forgot: I'd buy new air box to carb rubber stubs, the old ones are rock hard and impossible to refit, you can try boiling them and fitting whilst still hot, last ones I bought were £40...well worth it! I recommend keeping the standard aitbox, maybe add a K&N filter, those carbs don't like non standard at all!
Thanks, I've actually got a brand new set which I bought shortly after removing the carbs because I knew I wouldn't ever get them back on again 🤣
@@AshRowland 'when I was a lad' I couldn't afford such luxuries! We'd spend hours boiling the old stubs, then adding a blowlamp just for good luck...what a nightmare! 🤣
Great fun. Now we know you have a working engine, a big relief. Let the restoration begin :)
That's the plan! 👍
Hi
About 10 years ago I suddenly had to get a bike again, I found an 85 gpz 750r I we t saw I test rode and as I was paying for it the guy said you realise this has the 1000rx motor. I still have it handles great and goes even better. the 750 900 and 1000 motors share a lot of common components including the chain tensioner and externally they are dimensionally the same. Maybe the best motor kawasaki made
Also check out gpz zone great for new and used parts
Hi Ash, well done. Firing on all cylinders now. As others have stated Kawasaki chokes are s…, from cold full choke, keep fingers on choke ready as it will rev it ti.s off, soon as it starts reduce choke immediately, not so far to stall. Wire the coils correctly. The coolant leak from broken plastic bottle is the recall from Kawasaki to fix carb icing. Junk circuit,it’s ugly and you only need it if you ride below 5degrees C. Do not strip engine unless you have money to burn, why do it, sounds ok to me. Check the brakes it will have sucked in loads of water, I didn’t look what year it is, if it’s got anti dive it will have all siezed up, it’s repairable but tricky, you can blank it off. Replace chain tensioner.
Thanks buddy... I've replaced the tensioner now, the thread the bolt goes into was ripped out, guessing someone did it up too tight... I'm going to leave the engine for now, your right, its running just fine
It definitely sounds better than before!👍
I completely agree, I'm amazed it ran at all with the leads the wrong way round 🤣
As already mentioned below, Kawasaki chokes(of that era) always rev like mad from cold. The lever is not linear at all. Early water cooled design so they do run hot, lots of owners fit a manual fan switch and/or different thermostat
I think i'll be fitting a manual switch, the last thing I want is it to overheat in traffic, and there is a lot of traffic here in the UK 🤣
These bikes boil over when hot, say stuck in traffic or hot weather, most owners fit an override switch, check online to see how, has to wired right so the can still works automatically...I can't remember how!and the coils are wired 1&3 on one, 2&4 the other. The 12v wire red leads to the + connectors.
I might fit a switch... I thought the same initially but the coils are definitely connected 1 and 4 on the left coil and 2 and 3 on the right coil.
Fantastic Ash - have had 2 - they are great - it'll all be so worth it.
I can't wait to ride it to be honest, I'd better get cracking!
Cam chain tensioners always fail. New genuine ones are about £80, or you can fit a manual conversion which is basically a bolt you tighten until it sounds right!
I've had 5 of these, now got a gtr1000, same engine base, and a zzr1200: love them all!
Make sure you plug the vacuum tube on the carbs, when using a jockey tank, the hose is to open the fuel tap when the engine is running. You can switch the gap to 'prime' which allows fuel to run all the time, good to refill the carbs if the bikes been stood unused. Don't leave on prime! It'll fill the cylinders with petrol then hydro lock it...very bad!
The fuel tap has a diagphram and spring which fail then floods the engine, new bits are about £20: I give the spring a little stretch to increase pressure. If you get fuel running out of the air box you can be pretty sure the diaphragm has split...don't try starting it!
Thanks for all the info, the vacuum ports are indeed blanked off at the mo and I've got a rebuild kit for the petcock 👍
@@AshRowland Sounds like you've already found all the bad bits! Here's another...don't just remove the antidive units and blank off the forks, you will lock them up!
You will soon have a cracking bike, they are superb sports tourers, and plenty quick enough. I fitted a ZZR600 front end, straight swap and you get a 17" tyre. But once the antidive is working, its pretty good, just a problem finding tyres.
That's running quite nicely now, good job. Looks as though you've a sound bike to restore, it'll be great when it's done, very sexy bike, encouraging me to get on with my GPZ1000RX - too many projects and not enough time mate
Join the club, hence why the last video was nearly a month ago!
Great to see you back!
👋
👋
Двигатель ожил и это главное)
Теперь все сальники в двигатели и О-ринги под замену как ты делал это в карбюраторах.
Но я бы вскрыл головку блока цилиндра и поменял сальники клапанов.
Отличная работа 👍🏻слежу за тобой)
Thank you, you're right, I might test it out on the road before stripping it down though 😉
Отличный байк.я о таком мечтаю
I must apologise that I have not been able to view for a while so I am now on catchup:
I found the camchain tensioner from a zzr1100 to be the best replacement;
the fragility of the coolant sight bulb indicates both age but also that the previous owner had resorted to water, flush the whole system & obviously you will not make the mistake of using only water as it corrodes internally & coolant does not ;
grab a new higher pressure radiator cap while at it as with an updated thermostat which helps with coolant overflow but I would back the recommendstion of others & fit a manual override switch to your fan & mount it through your upper fairing inserts.
While at that, I recommend fitting s hidden kill switch of your own to frustraye any would be vermin from nicking this beaut. (I keep looking at my own Polaris Blue A2 in its forlorn state & await to see what, or if, you decide upon any bodywork improvements but dreadfully costly & I am constantly searching for respectable replacements for my own.
Hey Brad, no worries, I don't expect anyone to watch this rubbish anyway 🤣 ill make sure I use coolant and fit a fan override switch somewhere, also I like the idea of a hidden immobiliser switch, good shout! I probably won't show that on the videos though 🤣
Sounding good Ash. It's got Motad headers and collector which is good. If you discard the carb heater circuit you'll need to fit larger main jets. Can't wait for the next episode!
Thanks for the tips, I'll probably keep the carb heater circuit, I'd like to have it as original as factory as possible
Hi there ash, pleased to see you are back fella missed seeing your posts, and you are very welcome for the parcel really hope it is good, keep smiling and having fun 🎉
Thanks Kev, sorry it's taken so long to get a video out. I've been working away mon to fri and really busy at the weekends renovating a house lol
@@AshRowland no problem ash, sounds like things are very busy fella, make sure you don't do to much definitely need chill time
@@kevinhaigh3962 working on the bike is my chill time 🤣
Tensioner is a known problem, apart from leakiing oil if not complete😂😂. Zzr1100, I think, but don't hold me to it!! Is a direct replacement, its ratcheted, so can't back out, unlike the stock item.
Good idea, I'll do some research
Nice work! I hope we can see more new videos soon, I also bought a GPZ 900 some moths back in a similar situation as yours, is my project for the next year, or more 😂
I'm hoping to get on the road for the summer to be honest, but I'm probably being very optimistic 🤣
Concerning the fuel spitting out the inlet to the carburetor, It's likely to be either a timing issue or float set too high or stuck float.
I was thinking the same
12.03 it's a tentioner, used to put pressure on timing chain ...
It's leaking oil bcz there is a screw missing on it. .
Yea, I realise that now, the thread is actually gone so can't screw a bolt in there anymore
My mate had 2 of these & those engines are pretty much bulletproof, by the sound of yours I'd say the engine is a good one so a rebuild is probably not needed. Seems weird that the camchain tensioner was missing the bolt that I'd assume goes into the hole & seals the o ring, although I am speculating as it's been many years since I last saw one up close. I'd probably give the engine a partial strip like covers etc & have them painted up & put back on again while the frames being powder coated.
The missing bolt can't actually be replaced as the thread is missing 🤣 I'm guessing someone cranked it up too tight and it ripped the thread out
That's a shame I'm sure you'll fix it though.
Also its a really good to turn the fuel off and run it dry before you park the bike for long periods i run mine dry every time im done riding it stops the floats from sticking
I agree... It wasn't me that left it haha, I was only 10 😃
That's really coming along. Nicely done.
Thanks mate, still waiting to see your restoration videos 🤣
I have a 1984 GPZ900R A1 model. Last time I ran it up, it ran sweet. I also did a compression test and each cylinder was 185psi. My one didn't emit blue smoke.
Well I'm glad someone's got a good one 😊
The A1 had a unique fault! The rear shocker upper mounting bolt is only 10mm, and they wear down and shear. Changed to 12mm from A2 onwards, keep an eye on it!
@@scorpio9578 will do, mines an A2 so hopefully it's got the 12mm, but I'll check
I would refer to CD manual as regards the oil filter assembly, dish shaped part goes at bottom not on top, may effect oil circulation.
Well done getting her running
Why can't I get this right?? 🤣
As others have said, cam chain tensioner on one side of the engine. Should be a bolt and an O ring on the end to seal it.
The coils do have a + / - sign on each terminal. Hence the reds should go to the right hand / +ve terminals. There is a theoretical difference. Practically when both ends of the coil have an HT lead I am not sure the difference is real
The o-ring is still there, but the bolt head is not 🤣
Ok, maybe I'll switch them back round then
That thing on the left of the engine is the timing chain tensioner. I'm surprised that engine ran on two cylinders.
Me too!
Woohoo, he's back 🎉
👋
That thing is the timing chain tensioner
Cheers, I know that now 😃
Cam chain adjuster with the adjuster missing with the bolt missing
👍
I noticed when you fired the bike up exhaust was only coming out right side pipe....cam chain tensioner, as andy pointed out...
It was initially only coming out the right, which was actually the side the two cylinders weren't doing anything, weird 🤔
That thing on the right side if the engine that is leaking oil and you poked with a screwdriver is your cam chain tensioner. You might find that it is best to do the minimum to make it run properly why rebuild the engine it's running on all 4 some carfull attention to the ignition system and strip clean and tune the carbs running it ride it and then evaluate. From my small screen it looks and sounds not bad and probably needs more attention to the cosmetics than to the mechanics.
Above all have fun
Thanks, I think you might be right! I'll get the rest of the bike done, fit the engine and then find out on the road what it's really like! 👍
I'd not run it without cam chain tensioner the chain may jump a tooth and mess up the timing.
Now I know what it is, I'll get it sorted
I’m sure others have probably said this already but just get it road legal and ride it 👍.Way too far gone to make a restoration economically viable 🙈😂!!
If there wasn't a channel already called @noteconomicallyviable then I'd name mine that 🤣 check him out, he's great to watch!
@@AshRowland 😂👍
Best not to run it until you get the cam chain tensioner sorted, as the chain could jump a tooth or two and do some serious damage to the valve train.
I've ordered a replacement, I think its ok, just the bolt head has snapped off
Cam chain tensioner
Thanks mate 👍
Excellent stuff… I’d say the rings have all now come free and any WD 40 you squirted down the bores has burnt off so no smoke. Nice Purr on the engine there too. So do you really need to strip the engine down …is there a potential gearbox issue as the engine side sounds like it’s doing ok ?
Your right, I think I'll leave the engine for now... I have no idea about the gearbox as the clutch fluid is empty so can't engage gear while it's running. It'll select 1 and 2 with the engine off but then I can't start it without it being I'm neutral lol
Every Kawasaki I've owned revs its t*ts off on choke
They don't do that if you go up one size on the pilot jets. Fire it up on the choke, immediately turn the choke off & ride away.
Yea, the Versys I had did the same
Might give that a go
Balance your carbs and the temp should stabilise, do your cam chain tensioner, run the engine as it is, sounds sweet. Looks like you just had a stuck ring that has come around as they sometimes do. I would ride it before you strip the engine, may as well know if the gearbox and clutch are any good - if it was me.... I wouldnt rebuild the engine just yet, but I know you are going for a full restore, but that engine wont sound any better than it does after a rebuild - but then again I only do Honda bikes
I'm thinking the same thing to be honest... the clutch had no fluid in it so I can't pull it in to put it into gear when its running. It'll go into 1st and second with the engine off but then I can't start it lol. Completely forgot about balancing carbs to be honest, your right, that should sort the temp out 👍
@@AshRowland Well then, clutch master and slave rebuild next then :)
mabe the rings have come lose with running and getting warm if its been sat and not run for along time
Hopefully 🤞
Cam Chain adjuster. Cheers
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Leave the motor alone it's running nice as is
I think I'm with you on that one, hopefully the gearbox is ok
Hi Ash, Cam chain adjuster I think was the leaking oil flathead screw you were asking about? Check the workshop manual?
Thanks, I've ordered a replacement, no idea how that snapped off!
Honestly let it run for 15 minutes straight. Let it get hot rings can come free. Some times there just lil stick from carbon. Just get her hot
She got pretty hot in the end 😊
@@AshRowland ya she did if u do it a few times. Like 3 or more piston rings get better. I k is it sounds weird but the rings expand differently. Different metals u can clear out rings seats this way. Bigger smaller a few times expand
Differently. After a few times pushes out junk. I don’t think u need to pull that motor apart. Honestly. I should have explained better lol
Great effort. Would scare the life out of me 😅
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nice tshirt👍
🤣 thanks mate, a good friend gave it to me a while back
Just a thought, you haven,t actually ridden it yet,would it be a smart idea to make sure it is a good riding machine before you paint it and make it look good!
I'd love to but it has no clutch or brakes, and the tyres are 30 years old 🤣
What I really meant was,fix everything,get it running well over the summer,new tyres etc,then take it apart for painting.From experience from my own gpz, l had it apart so many times especially with the fuel tank and the super tight airbox,it is near impossible to not chip the new paintwork.
Cam chain adjuster Ash Blue smoke is just oil on the cylinders did you squirt a little WD down the plug holes at some point.
erm... I wouldn't say a little, more like a lot 🤣
@@AshRowland hey Ash if you put a table spoon of two stroke oil in a gallon of petrol. It will protect your cylinders pistons loosen your rings You’ll have less friction and it’s not enough oil to make it smoke I do it with mine.
@@AshRowland Ash your carbs leaking. That the air intakes for One is slow jet another the air for choke. So something is blocked I know you’ve cleaned everything but it only takes a bit of dust. I think z power has the carb clamps you need
@@davemonday5381 cheers Dave, great idea
@@davemonday5381 I think the float plunger is a bit sticky, I'll strip it again and sort it out
I got very confused watching ,some shots show chain tensioner on left ,some on the right !see last few minutes !!😮
ahhhh, I see whats happened here... Bad editing on my part, sorry. I use my phone to make the videos and when using the front camera it records it backwards, like all phones do, and there are a couple of shots towards the end of the video that I forgot to flip around 😃 Well spotted though
@@AshRowland yeah I thought I was going nuts 🤣🤣
@@richardwhelan8060 🤣
Ash, I have Gpz 900, my cam chain is on the lhs so what engine do you have there!?
Mine is also on the left hand side, Its the original 1985 engine
Maybe I am losing my marbles but for most of the video the cam chain tunnel and tensioner are on the left hand side of the bike but towards the end they are on the right hand side. The coolant reservoir and rear master cylinder seem to have swapped sides too. I've watched the end several times. Please tell me I don't need to go and see a neurologist....
Nothing wrong with u mate. He just used his selfie camera to film that bit which makes the screen flipped. You're fine. Cheers!
@@Lyfb3twn2wheelz thanks. I thought there must be some technical explanation.
Sorry, bad editing 🤣 I missed a couple of clips where I forgot to flip the video round as the front facing camera records backwards, like @wannadie66 said
like previously said camchain tensioner
Thanks, ordered 👍
Cam chain tensioner it's missing the 6mm plug
I've got a new (used) tensioner on order 👍
Cam chain tensioner leaking oil! Bit missing there, I think😊
Yepp. Difficult to find new, GPZ forums might be able to help. Edit: Ah, he found it :D
Either way, I'd recommend to swap the radiator cap. Old ones don't hold pressure.....
Yep, I found one on eBay that I've ordered
I found a used tensioner on eBay that I've ordered, I'll see if I can get a new cap, it doesn't look too bad to be honest
@@AshRowland Mine looked pristine as well; cooked over on the way back from the TÜV (german MOT). On Amazon I bought Blue Print ADC49902 for less than a tenner 4 years ago, still holding :)
Tensioner on the side (already stated)
Thanks mate 👍
Please don't go don't the typical youtube road of posting super imposed pictures and comments just to get someone to click on it. That will wear out very quickly and your channel will be over
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Test comment.
Test passed 👍
@@AshRowland lt's just that one or two comms containing polite constructive criticism seem to have 'disappeared', hopefully just a YT glitch then.
@@bananabrooks3836 strange, I've only got 2 comments that are waiting for review which are very offensive so they won't be published lol, haven't seen anything from you, but I always appreciate constructive criticism, TH-cam only filters out offensive comments and swear words automatically
😅
Hope you have a good wife, cos its gonna cost a fortune, I got a brilliant wife 😅
🤣 yea, she's great
Welcome back ash❤ 😂
Cam chain tensioner it is. It was supposed to have a 10mil bolt on it.
Yea, not sure where thats gone lol
Cam chain tensioner
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Cam chain tensioner
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Cam chain tensioner
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