Another great video, thanks Ash. Shame the seal didn’t work out, but I think you’ve made the right choice in replacing the tank. If you’re keeping the bike for a while, do you really want to be constantly worrying about petrol. Dripping on the engine, exhaust etc. you’re doing a great job my friend, keep it up.
Hi Ash, regarding tank lining. I know they are commonly available and many really believe in using it for rust prevention or in this case to seal pin holes. But in my 50 years of moto building and maintaining, many of those professionally, in my experience they just don't work. Even the best case scenario where they seem to coat well on a good clean tank that is not already leaking, they don't last. The inevitable outcome is that eventually the area around the filler opening de-bonds from the metal. In starts here because this is where there has to be an edge in the coating, and that is the point that fuel leaches under the coating and starts the de-bonding. They come off as a sheet which is found floating in your fuel, or as small pieces which clog up your petcocks and filtration. In other cases where there are pin holes, by far the best solution is to weld in new metal. I know that sounds daunting and will ruin the paint, etc. To be honest it is and it will, but rusted out tanks require new metal for a lasting repair. A good temporary repair is to use JB Weld properly applied to the inside and outside of the pin holed area. That could get you a few months to several years depending on the bonding you are able to achieve. JB Weld is magic for many repairs and this can be a good short term solution.
I solder my tanks, had a string of GPZs and XJs with same issue, they are prone to it. Soldering was the best solution. Currently sorting a small Divy with a solid but rusty tank, seller gave me a tin of sealant but I am trying to get away with not using it. Problem is peeps think that tank liner is a "cure all" when it isn't. Nice FZR, have had a few, great bikes and good fun.
@@AshRowland Seen a few "professional" tank restorations on here which leave a lot to be desired. I always believe a competent home Mechanic can do as good a job if not better, we have the time to redo our mistakes and learn? I only use outside help for messy stuff like shot blasting or changing tyres. Will be interested to see how you live with the Ducati ST2, remember when they first came out, overshadowed by the competition and then thrown in the bargain bins and dealers? I almost bought a new 900ss but ended up on Daytona 900 after trying both... severe cramp after riding the Ducati, I would have one in a shot, just above the mantelpiece.
Ash, a learning experience. My 2 cents on this. Ive fixed many a tank, and generally. I HATE tank liners. Prep is EVERYTHING when it comes to a liner. If I've HAD to line a tank, then i do everything possible to remove ALL the rust BEFORE i even use the tank prep stuff. POR15 has worked fine for me, Caswell is also good. Generally I'd rather aggressively clean rust with either electrolysis or Muriatic Acid and then solder any pin holes followed by treating the inside with either an oil to stop flash rust or in extreme cases, if seams leak, a tank liner. Soldering requires a BIG soldering iron to get enough heat into the tank metal to melt the solder (avoid a cold solder joint). and to make a solder fix work, the inside and the outside must be rust free bare metal, and you need to get flux on both sides of the pin hole (inside and out). Anyway, sometimes you may also find that tanks are just too far gone to fix, i had a GSXR tank that was so rusty i just couldn't be saved. After the rust was removed it was like swiss cheese and thin as tinfoil in too many places. I will say that you could get away with 1 can of POR 15 for that size tank. In my view, 5 days to fully cure the POR15 or other liner before putting fuel in I will also say that drying a tank thoroughly BEFORE using the liner, is key. In my experience a heat gun for several hours is not sufficient to truly dry all the seams. the tank needs to be left in the blazing sun for a couple of days to be sure. Moisture trapped in seams leads to failure, insufficient liner around the filler neck also leads to failure just my experience. getting any part of the process wrong will lead to a failure.
Thanks mate, yep, definitely a learning experience! Leaving a tank in the "blazing sun for a couple days" is not an option in the UK 🤣 I definitely removed the rust before starting the process, it looked great, just leaked 🤣 I'll probably just leave this to the professionals in the future to be honest
@@AshRowland The tank don't leak anymore, too me that's the problem fixed, it's just how you perceive the term fixed, your doing great keep pushing forward
Only recently and via a Facebook reel, I watched a video based in Asia somewhere, Taiwan for example. They save everything out there because of the need too perhaps. But in cases like yours, they simply cut away the base of the original tank leaving just the outside shell. They make a new tank from aluminium that hides inside the outer original shell of your old tank. They make the filler cap match your existing tank but that's it. The new tank is bolted to your old tank (Outer shell only) thus when refitted back on the bike, you are keeping the original look of the bike, therefore no need to paint your tank, but you now have a new rust free tank out of view. Clever idea, Preserves the look of the bike and does the job intended. Win Win...🙂
I was very lucky, I found a NOS tank on Ebay a few years ago. I had to get my tank rebuilt for my 1972 DT3 250 Enduro, the bottom was rusted out! I managed to clean the rust out of my 1973 CB360 tank with Hydrochloric acid, really horrible stuff.
Have you been through the electrical yet.....if not theres two connectors on fzrs that are notorious. One is from the ignition key under the tank, and the other is a red one under the left side cover, check these for signs of melting. Ive got a couple of these a early 87 FZR1000 and a 87 FZR750RT, let me know if you have any questions ive rebuilt these from the crank up.
Crafty going for M.o.t. with half a gallon of fuel ...got the same issues with my zx7r tank I scraped some rust bubble of mines and it split open right downv the middle. 😢😢
@@AshRowland ..even some coarse fish tank gravel - the ones about the size of Dowie Egbets/Tesco Gold Roast instant coffee granules too - just don't put the 'used' rust removing fish gravel into any fish tanks or ponds..
The joys of owning and resurrecting an old bike, ho hum. Never mind, you have another tank but its a right old kick in the nads about the sealer not working. Keep up the fight Ash, don't be disheartened too much. Oh and its "ROYAL FAIL" by the way, 🤣🤣.
If you're going to use a tank liner, the metal has to be perfectly cleaned and preferably a couple of coats. I've had success and major failures with POR-15, a good product, but it must be done right!
Hmm not sure I'd try and fix holes with anything like this, it would have to be welded. Just wouldn't have confidence in it. I've used Rostio, but that more of a tank cleaner and protection.
@@tab5297you can weld a petrol fuel tank but need to flush and air properly… it’s dangerous if not done properly but it’s common practice for those in the know
@@tab5297 I've had one welded, and it didn't seem a problem to the guy welding it. If you mean because of the danger of exploding vapour, then the answer to that is you use your noggin and vent an inert gas through it first, to purge the fumes. The exhaust from a diesel vehicle is perfect for this.
I've sealed 3 tanks with POR-15 and found it to be excellent stuff. Looking at the way it has peeled away on your tank suggests very strongly that the area along that seam was still wet. There's no way the POR-15 sealer wouldn't have stuck to it if that were the case. Tanks will never dry out completely no matter how long you leave them - you've got to keep blasting hot air through them to make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies along seams. Personally I wouldn't have expected the POR-15 to fix the holes either. Even though it might say that on the tin. I've always fixed holes first as a separate issue, then sealed with POR-15. Lessons learned though, so it's all good 👍
i used rostio a few times. it works very well. my Tip for Derust your Tank. Citric acid, boiling water. drying with hot air and then use products from POR. Read the descriptions on the Webpage. the tank must be Rustfree. and Dry. They use Metal ready for the cleaning.
Good night Ash and Kate i love watching your you tube videos on your you tube channel I hope both of you are well and Ash are you enjoying your new build project on your motor bikes please say hello to Kate I miss her being on your you tube videos please keep safe and warm please keep up you good work up on your you tube channel cheers both of you do you both like bonfire night and fire works pleas say
but well, I'm a welder so the chance that I'll use it is small, but I've done it once because I had to do it quickly and that was at least 10 years ago and it's still closed
![Mechanical Fails & Unbelievable Customer States You Won't Believe Happened [PART 44]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VNA5ov1sZHo/mqdefault.jpg)
![Mechanical Fails & Unbelievable Customer States You Won't Believe Happened [PART 44]](/img/tr.png)
Another great video, thanks Ash. Shame the seal didn’t work out, but I think you’ve made the right choice in replacing the tank. If you’re keeping the bike for a while, do you really want to be constantly worrying about petrol. Dripping on the engine, exhaust etc. you’re doing a great job my friend, keep it up.
Thank you mate, yea you're right, I didn't even think about that 🤣
Hi Ash, regarding tank lining. I know they are commonly available and many really believe in using it for rust prevention or in this case to seal pin holes.
But in my 50 years of moto building and maintaining, many of those professionally, in my experience they just don't work. Even the best case scenario where they seem to coat well on a good clean tank that is not already leaking, they don't last. The inevitable outcome is that eventually the area around the filler opening de-bonds from the metal. In starts here because this is where there has to be an edge in the coating, and that is the point that fuel leaches under the coating and starts the de-bonding. They come off as a sheet which is found floating in your fuel, or as small pieces which clog up your petcocks and filtration.
In other cases where there are pin holes, by far the best solution is to weld in new metal. I know that sounds daunting and will ruin the paint, etc. To be honest it is and it will, but rusted out tanks require new metal for a lasting repair.
A good temporary repair is to use JB Weld properly applied to the inside and outside of the pin holed area. That could get you a few months to several years depending on the bonding you are able to achieve. JB Weld is magic for many repairs and this can be a good short term solution.
I probably won't try again to be honest. This tank is either destined for eBay, or I'll pay a professional to do it 😂
I solder my tanks, had a string of GPZs and XJs with same issue, they are prone to it. Soldering was the best solution. Currently sorting a small Divy with a solid but rusty tank, seller gave me a tin of sealant but I am trying to get away with not using it. Problem is peeps think that tank liner is a "cure all" when it isn't. Nice FZR, have had a few, great bikes and good fun.
It's a no brainer but most people are simpletons and got rocks in their heads 😂
I think I'll leave tanks to the professionals from now on 🤣
@@AshRowland Seen a few "professional" tank restorations on here which leave a lot to be desired. I always believe a competent home Mechanic can do as good a job if not better, we have the time to redo our mistakes and learn? I only use outside help for messy stuff like shot blasting or changing tyres. Will be interested to see how you live with the Ducati ST2, remember when they first came out, overshadowed by the competition and then thrown in the bargain bins and dealers? I almost bought a new 900ss but ended up on Daytona 900 after trying both... severe cramp after riding the Ducati, I would have one in a shot, just above the mantelpiece.
Ash, a learning experience. My 2 cents on this. Ive fixed many a tank, and generally. I HATE tank liners. Prep is EVERYTHING when it comes to a liner. If I've HAD to line a tank, then i do everything possible to remove ALL the rust BEFORE i even use the tank prep stuff. POR15 has worked fine for me, Caswell is also good. Generally I'd rather aggressively clean rust with either electrolysis or Muriatic Acid and then solder any pin holes followed by treating the inside with either an oil to stop flash rust or in extreme cases, if seams leak, a tank liner.
Soldering requires a BIG soldering iron to get enough heat into the tank metal to melt the solder (avoid a cold solder joint). and to make a solder fix work, the inside and the outside must be rust free bare metal, and you need to get flux on both sides of the pin hole (inside and out).
Anyway, sometimes you may also find that tanks are just too far gone to fix, i had a GSXR tank that was so rusty i just couldn't be saved. After the rust was removed it was like swiss cheese and thin as tinfoil in too many places.
I will say that you could get away with 1 can of POR 15 for that size tank.
In my view, 5 days to fully cure the POR15 or other liner before putting fuel in
I will also say that drying a tank thoroughly BEFORE using the liner, is key. In my experience a heat gun for several hours is not sufficient to truly dry all the seams. the tank needs to be left in the blazing sun for a couple of days to be sure. Moisture trapped in seams leads to failure, insufficient liner around the filler neck also leads to failure
just my experience. getting any part of the process wrong will lead to a failure.
Thanks mate, yep, definitely a learning experience! Leaving a tank in the "blazing sun for a couple days" is not an option in the UK 🤣 I definitely removed the rust before starting the process, it looked great, just leaked 🤣 I'll probably just leave this to the professionals in the future to be honest
It’s a shame you keep getting issues but it makes good content and shows how you get them fixed - great job! 👍👍👍
Thanks mate, not sure if replacing the tank can be called a "fix" though 🤣
@@AshRowland The tank don't leak anymore, too me that's the problem fixed, it's just how you perceive the term fixed, your doing great keep pushing forward
Only recently and via a Facebook reel, I watched a video based in Asia somewhere, Taiwan for example. They save everything out there because of the need too perhaps. But in cases like yours, they simply cut away the base of the original tank leaving just the outside shell. They make a new tank from aluminium that hides inside the outer original shell of your old tank. They make the filler cap match your existing tank but that's it. The new tank is bolted to your old tank (Outer shell only) thus when refitted back on the bike, you are keeping the original look of the bike, therefore no need to paint your tank, but you now have a new rust free tank out of view. Clever idea, Preserves the look of the bike and does the job intended. Win Win...🙂
That's actually a brilliant idea!
That engine is minging. Looking forward to that getting some attention. Fingers crossed on the tank!
Least it started 🤷♂️😁. Keep at it ash and I'll keep watching 👍
Thank you, the bike's been fighting me with the brake callipers too, but thats for another video 👍
You are a real fighter 😊😊😊
Thanks mate, this bike is fighting back hard!
I was cringing the whole time watching this Ash...I feel your pain brother. I feel your pain.
I'll send it to you to sort out for me, I've seen your work, its perfect
@ aw…now I’m all red in the face.
Sounds alright that!
Thanks mate, yea, runs great
I was very lucky, I found a NOS tank on Ebay a few years ago.
I had to get my tank rebuilt for my 1972 DT3 250 Enduro, the bottom was rusted out!
I managed to clean the rust out of my 1973 CB360 tank with Hydrochloric acid, really horrible stuff.
Very lucky mate 👍
Pleasure whating you work hard on your bikes. As Paula Abdul - One step forward, 2 steps back.
Haha, yea, this bike's been fighting me
I used kreem on my mga and ducati tanks. Worked perfectly but is diabolical on paintwork
I'd probably get it all over the paint 😂
Have you been through the electrical yet.....if not theres two connectors on fzrs that are notorious. One is from the ignition key under the tank, and the other is a red one under the left side cover, check these for signs of melting. Ive got a couple of these a early 87 FZR1000 and a 87 FZR750RT, let me know if you have any questions ive rebuilt these from the crank up.
Thanks mate, I haven't been through everything properly yet but I know the red one you're talking about has been, erm, modified 😂
Drain the tank, flush it out really well, sand the area around the pinholes and silver solder it.
I think I'll pay someone to sort it out 🤣
Crafty going for M.o.t. with half a gallon of fuel ...got the same issues with my zx7r tank I scraped some rust bubble of mines and it split open right downv the middle. 😢😢
Oh wow! Yea, In cheated a bit 🤣
silver solder works every time i saw that someone else said that aswel
Yea, a few people have mentioned it... I think I'll leave this one to the professionals 👍
Well, it might as well be me.......ive used por15 in 7 bike tanks, works great.........if you follow the instructions to the letter......
Yep I’ve used Por15 in several bikes, never had one fail even after years of use. Prep, prep, prep is key.
Yes, I have a xs1100 with a liner in that's over 10years old...prep prep prep....and drain. Excess
Would you like to do this one for me? 😂
I've also had good results with it, but it's always been on tanks with internal corrosion but no leaks, I wouldn't use it on a leaking tank.
@@AshRowlandsure, if you strip out your abortion first.
I've seen people put a small or medium chain in tanks to get rid of the rust
Yea, or nuts and bolts
@@AshRowland ..even some coarse fish tank gravel - the ones about the size of Dowie Egbets/Tesco Gold Roast instant coffee granules too - just don't put the 'used' rust removing fish gravel into any fish tanks or ponds..
The joys of owning and resurrecting an old bike, ho hum. Never mind, you have another tank but its a right old kick in the nads about the sealer not working. Keep up the fight Ash, don't be disheartened too much. Oh and its "ROYAL FAIL" by the way, 🤣🤣.
Thanks mate 👍 the brakes are fighting me as well, the bike nearly threw me off yesterday, but that's a story for another time
YIKES, just keep moving forwards and you'll be sure to get everything sorted. 😎
If you're going to use a tank liner, the metal has to be perfectly cleaned and preferably a couple of coats. I've had success and major failures with POR-15, a good product, but it must be done right!
I'll leave it to the pros next time 🤣
Hmm not sure I'd try and fix holes with anything like this, it would have to be welded.
Just wouldn't have confidence in it.
I've used Rostio, but that more of a tank cleaner and protection.
I'm leaving tanks to the professionals now lol 🤣
there is liquid steel and there is a greater chance that it will not leak, it is 2 components and because of the reaction it can withstand fuel
👍
👍
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There is only 1 way to repair a tank. Cut out the rust and weld in new metal. Anything else is a bodge and safety risk..
Are you offering? 😂
You cant weld a gas tank, diesel maybe but no gas
@@tab5297you can weld a petrol fuel tank but need to flush and air properly… it’s dangerous if not done properly but it’s common practice for those in the know
@@tab5297
I've had one welded, and it didn't seem a problem to the guy welding it.
If you mean because of the danger of exploding vapour, then the answer to that is you use your noggin and vent an inert gas through it first, to purge the fumes.
The exhaust from a diesel vehicle is perfect for this.
I've sealed 3 tanks with POR-15 and found it to be excellent stuff.
Looking at the way it has peeled away on your tank suggests very strongly that the area along that seam was still wet. There's no way the POR-15 sealer wouldn't have stuck to it if that were the case.
Tanks will never dry out completely no matter how long you leave them - you've got to keep blasting hot air through them to make sure you get into all the nooks and crannies along seams.
Personally I wouldn't have expected the POR-15 to fix the holes either. Even though it might say that on the tin. I've always fixed holes first as a separate issue, then sealed with POR-15.
Lessons learned though, so it's all good 👍
Just fit the new tank and fairings …. Sell the old ones if you can.
Rostio from Germany seems a good product 😊
i used rostio a few times. it works very well. my Tip for Derust your Tank. Citric acid, boiling water. drying with hot air and then use products from POR. Read the descriptions on the Webpage. the tank must be Rustfree. and Dry. They use Metal ready for the cleaning.
Yea, thats a good plan, it'll fund the rest of the build 👍
Good night Ash and Kate i love watching your you tube videos on your you tube channel I hope both of you are well and Ash are you enjoying your new build project on your motor bikes please say hello to Kate I miss her being on your you tube videos please keep safe and warm please keep up you good work up on your you tube channel
cheers both of you do you both like bonfire night and fire works pleas say
Bonfires aren't good for Kate's asthma, but she loves fireworks!
There isn’t a tank sealer/liner that will accept ethanol fuel sadly. They are all epoxy based and no matter what they say they all react with ethanol.
At least I was able to find a decent replacement tank in this case 👍
Not sure how much all that tank sealer gear cost, but you should have got another sound tank or had yours professionally repaired.
50 quid ish, it was worth a shot 👍
but well, I'm a welder so the chance that I'll use it is small, but I've done it once because I had to do it quickly and that was at least 10 years ago and it's still closed
👍 I'm leaving it to the professionals in the future
This sealing is only to protect against further rust. If there are holes in the tank, they must be soldered or repaired beforehand
......another that hasn't read the instructions.
@@Beauloqs If that's what you mean..., I have already successfully repaired several tanks.
However, I do not know the product that is used here.
It's supposed to fill the pinholes
Club hammer wack it hard😂
🤣
The best solution for tank rust repair is German product ROSTIO😎👍
What about the holes? 😂
You should have used petseal ultra far easier and better product
I think I'll leave it to the professionals next time