Great video but there are several statements that are simply incorrect in the first when discussing countersinking; it's not required for strength as EN9595 specifically includes a torque test with out counter sinking. The merits of countersinking apply to other issues. Cleaning holes out with water is unnecessary and just makes it worse when dressing the adhesive around the anchor. The twist leg shaft is not a right angle but actually inclined so drilling slightly upwards ensures the eye sits flush.
these glues that are rated for damp/wet holes are referring to a hole that's been washed clean, like with a hose. just wetting a hole before it's been cleaned of most dust will make a slurry that's harder to remove than dry dust, and reduce the bond strength. Often spec sheets will state, assume 1/2 strength for wet hole placement, or similar, but this is even worse than that as it's not just wet but muddy. Will it still be a solid enough bolt to climb on? Probably. Is it best practice? no. Is it a totally unnecessary step? yep. Am I going to lug a bunch of water up a line with me? god no.
Need to check out the hollow bits/rottery drills that suck out all of the dust as you drill the hole. Their still relatively newer so mixed reviews are par for the course. I'm an electrician so I just wanted to see if we used similar techniques and tools and we certainly do. But i'm a big hiltifag... a huge hilti FAN. I am a proud user of hilti tools is all i meant.
As someone who climbed from the early 80s, this BMC sponsored bolting guide is mind-blowing. Back then, if you couldn't climb the route using "traditional" pro and natural features, you'd choose one you could. Bolts on natural crags on climbable routes get chopped - as was done in 2012 on the infamous "Compressor Route" in Cerro Torre bolt-laddered in 1970 by Cesare Maestri.
The Compressor Route was a bolt ladder. Properly bolted sport routes are not ladders. Some climbs are too thin/blank to safely protect with gear. This allows us to climb at our limit. Not that you don’t already know this. Just thought I would leave this for other folks to consider. Climbing is a selfish sport haha
@@nickhanshew9171 Sure - "on climbable routes" means: if they have already been climbed 'free' of bolts. This is the beauty of dual-grading: if a route is considered too serious by a party, then there's plenty of great alternative routes that can be more securely protected without the need for drilling native rock for additional security. This is in complete alignment with the BMC whose own 'Ethics and Climbing' page states: "The BMC is firmly opposed to retrospective bolting (i.e. changing the character of a route by placing fixed equipment where none was previously used)." www.thebmc.co.uk/ethics-and-climbing
so people just drill their way up a new rockface? this totally takes so much away from the glamour of rock climbing. "yeah lets just literally drill into rock and climb a human creation," no disrespect but i think ive found this sport isnt for me. If you cant do it with power tools then... is it really conquering a mountain?
![Tips for drilling climbing anchors with expansion bolts [Bolting for climbing]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/vDpOsBsBKaU/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video but there are several statements that are simply incorrect in the first when discussing countersinking; it's not required for strength as EN9595 specifically includes a torque test with out counter sinking. The merits of countersinking apply to other issues. Cleaning holes out with water is unnecessary and just makes it worse when dressing the adhesive around the anchor.
The twist leg shaft is not a right angle but actually inclined so drilling slightly upwards ensures the eye sits flush.
Not convinced with the water cleaning
also youd have to take a lot of water if you're gonna clean each hole right?
I can hear the mountains screaming in pain as you drill into them
Who doesnt like a clean hole
i couldnt hear well.
did he say 18 milimeters drill?
Yep done a fair bit of bolting routes never used water but might be a new type of glue
no, not with epoxy it isn't
these glues that are rated for damp/wet holes are referring to a hole that's been washed clean, like with a hose. just wetting a hole before it's been cleaned of most dust will make a slurry that's harder to remove than dry dust, and reduce the bond strength. Often spec sheets will state, assume 1/2 strength for wet hole placement, or similar, but this is even worse than that as it's not just wet but muddy.
Will it still be a solid enough bolt to climb on? Probably. Is it best practice? no. Is it a totally unnecessary step? yep. Am I going to lug a bunch of water up a line with me? god no.
Need to check out the hollow bits/rottery drills that suck out all of the dust as you drill the hole. Their still relatively newer so mixed reviews are par for the course.
I'm an electrician so I just wanted to see if we used similar techniques and tools and we certainly do. But i'm a big hiltifag... a huge hilti FAN. I am a proud user of hilti tools is all i meant.
my ex needs your support
Lmao fufk that’s funny
4:44 Some for the hole; some for your face ≽ܫ≼
As someone who climbed from the early 80s, this BMC sponsored bolting guide is mind-blowing. Back then, if you couldn't climb the route using "traditional" pro and natural features, you'd choose one you could. Bolts on natural crags on climbable routes get chopped - as was done in 2012 on the infamous "Compressor Route" in Cerro Torre bolt-laddered in 1970 by Cesare Maestri.
The Compressor Route was a bolt ladder. Properly bolted sport routes are not ladders. Some climbs are too thin/blank to safely protect with gear. This allows us to climb at our limit. Not that you don’t already know this. Just thought I would leave this for other folks to consider. Climbing is a selfish sport haha
@@nickhanshew9171 Sure - "on climbable routes" means: if they have already been climbed 'free' of bolts. This is the beauty of dual-grading: if a route is considered too serious by a party, then there's plenty of great alternative routes that can be more securely protected without the need for drilling native rock for additional security.
This is in complete alignment with the BMC whose own 'Ethics and Climbing' page states: "The BMC is firmly opposed to retrospective bolting (i.e. changing the character of a route by placing fixed equipment where none was previously used)." www.thebmc.co.uk/ethics-and-climbing
As a keen hiker and not a climber I've always viewed this practice as an act of vandalism
You enjoy those footpath scars though
@@alexm3892 he probably never even considered that as vandalism 😂
Oh ya dude! As a kid I would go TP peoples houses and egg cars. Then after a night of that we would go out into the forest and blot climbing routes..
As a hiker I agree. Picture ourselves hiking the CDT on battery operated board on wheels and a chainsaw in case we bushwack or for bbq firewood.
Rubbish!
so people just drill their way up a new rockface? this totally takes so much away from the glamour of rock climbing. "yeah lets just literally drill into rock and climb a human creation," no disrespect but i think ive found this sport isnt for me. If you cant do it with power tools then... is it really conquering a mountain?
You can always free solo if you like too....