Manufacturing Climbing Bolts By Hand
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- Deep In The hills of Siruana Spain, local climber David Brascó is looking after the climbing scene for the people that go to climb there.
Manufacturing his own bolts and placing them himself, David is an artist and a veteran of the climbing scene steeped in history...
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The Man Who Still Makes Climbing Bolts By Hand
I'd love to see some tests compared to big name manufacturers.
instaBlaster...
If you're going to subtitle the video please, please use the closed caption function in youtube. Its much easier for people who are hard of hearing to use and search for and also gives a good base for translation.
The adhesive 'injection' process is entirely against any approved process endorsed by adhesive manufacturers.
It's not a water painting. This guy is putting everyone's lives at risk by what he's doing.
Staggered by it.
I’d be interested to know the grade of the Steel and what the glue is
it's sikadur 31
I would guess it is 316 stainless steel
@@johannessporer you would hope so
Yo doblo varilla de acero de 10mm para dejarla en forma de U, aguanta mas de 40kn, incluso con la de 8mm vastaria.
Utilizo cartuchos tipo silicona, vacio y limpio, con su tapon de empuje.
Las anillas hago al igual que tú y con los mismos tensores U en horizontal, se quedan perfecto para pasar la cuerda colocando dos.
Todo lo que sean soldaduras debilita la zona. Los tensores fixe, rompen por ahi en pruebas de carga.
El tema de las anillas, incluso sin soldar aguantan el peso de uno sin apenas alteracion en la separación, ya una vez soldadas van cañon.
Importante utilizar disco de acero fino solo para tratar el acero, si cortas otro metal como hierro, termina contaminando el acero y surge el oxido en la zona.
Como digo, las U son tremendamente resistentes con una apertura razonable para no coincidir los conos de extraccion
Somewhat unbelievable that a professional climbing channel (EpicTV) is endorsing and showcasing an entirely unprofessional, uncertified and frankly dangerous blow jo homegrown 'bolt' manufacturing hub.
There are no process controls, no quality controls and the cut notches in the shaft of the bolt is so damming of absent technical knowledge it screams fatalities right there. Fact is that these are illegal fixings if made for manufacture in the EU given they have no EN certification.
This type of monkey business went out in the 90's.
Professionally manufactured, certified anchors are available now at a price that simply does not warrant re-inventing the wheel.
Unbelievable that it's considered 'ok' to make home made bolts but no one would ever bounce around on an uncertified harness, rope, belay device, carabiner...
Downright irresponsible.
I guess you moaning types would prefer to take huge whippers on that piece of rusting crud he took out. Some context please.
@@paulmitchell5349 As if installing something unrated, uncertified and dangerous equates? Do yourself a favour and read up on standards, let alone adhesive injection procedures.
I can only assume you have no technical knowledge regrading EN standards, let alone bolting and therefore think (wrongly) that home made anchors are 'ok' provided you fall on them with certified rope.
I repeat. The bolt he replaces was beyond hopeless. Why don't you fund these guys for your fave bolts if you are so concerned. Not everybody has the bank account to do as you recommend.
@@paulmitchell5349
There are documented fatalities involving home made staples ripping out, resulting in deaths.
One shit bolt replaced by another shit bolt does n't equate to an improvement.
It replaces one dangerous situation with another while making it worse because the original issue 'appears' to have been fixed.
I'm guessing you don't run a bolt fund but I do. I know exactly what you ignorantly assume to think I know nothing about.
The failure is on him to use certified bolts and install them correctly.
Equipping brings a responsibility to others that going climbing with your mate does not.
Cost is n't a valid excuse for botching home made bolts, failing to inject adhesive correctly and then passing it off and some form of quaint artistry.
@@fh8698 Then send him the money for the bolts.
Porcierto, mejor utilizar guantes y rrellenar el agujero desde el fondo hasta donde pida, y si se le mete un poco al tensor antes de meterlo girandolo, mas certeza de que se ha repartido bien.
THE BOLTER FROM SIURANA! 🙌
I have to admit, I didn't watch this. But I'm curios if these homemade bolts are tested to UIAA specs...
10/10 would whip
The 'notching' with an angle grinder screams everything. Multiple fatalities have occurred due to this approach, any mechanical resistance (because adhesive does n't stick) should be stamped, not cut as immediately creates a structural failure point. Christ where does anyone with actual technical knowledge of anchor spec's begin with this. No way I'd climb in Siuranna again.
Based on the footage many crucial steps in producing safety relevant gear only can be guessed, but what is shown is enough. The welding is a catastrophe as well as the gluing. This video documents, there is no awareness about safety of climbing gear and epicTV obviosity is promoting it.
Wow.
You absolutely could have done kind of this DIY in the Climbers Stoneage, whithout Existance of proper gear and only a few freaks dangeling on their improvised gear - but nowadays? Wow.
This is creepycrappy Style to me. Got somehow stuck in the 7ties... Questionable Attitude to me.
Maybe this Video starts a discussion - i would appreciate that.
People need to get their heads out of their asses.
A bolt is just a hunk of metal. There ain't no magic pixie dust that makes mass produced bolts special.
I mean, they are just that, I agree with you.
But, there are a couple things going on, arc welding stainless in this context is just ridiculous. Shielding gas is required to cover the whole piece and this process most likely only covered the side facing the arc. The backside will most likely be porous (mechanical resistance is reduced) and chrome depleted (no rusting resistance whatsoever) which will seriously weaken the joint. Will it take a whip a couple weeks after? most likely. Will it take a whip a couple years after? decades?
I run a business in Mexico specialized in stainless for the food industry. I know how hard it is to import every damn component our country doesn't produce. I am morally torn in this particular topic, as I could easily manufacture my own hangers for a ver low cost. But am I doing any sustainable good?
Yeah the only issue is the weld and his footwear. Fixe notched for decades. I prefer ubolts. No weld and with good 316 and a good epoxy they dont twist loose (or crack at a crappy oxidised weld) like a ring.
if y'all concern about this home made thing, standard thing etc, send them big box of bolt and resin+aplicator so they and enyone else can continue to replace sh*t bolt in their area, not just complaining and whinning like a bi**h
1 euro in my country is worth 1/4 sack of rice, so, yeah i'd rather make it my own