How NOT to Trad Climb
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Sun came out, so we went climbing. This is a start to finish example of a traditional or "trad" climb with some thoughts given along the way. Trad climbing is where you have to place your own "pro" or protection and in this video we used cams which is actively placed pro as opposed to nuts and hexes that are placed in constrictions passively.
The beginning was a skit inspired by a funny video called "Sew it up" found at • Sew It Up
Cam break test episode where the rocks move • Metolius TCU climbing ...
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Thank you for the fun day outside Bobby Hutton, Mike Rogers @wolf_in_the_weeds, and TJ Gillick.
Edited by: Taylor Pike
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Multi-pitch, watch it again. Rappelling, watch it in reverse. Caving, watch it in reverse in the dark.
Canyoning, watch it in the shower...
@@AdamHaberlach I watch them all that way.
Big wall climbing: put it on repeat for a few days.
Winter ice - do it in the snow with sharp bits
This thread deserves so much more love.
Yes, I would definitely like to see more climbing content. Potentiality some more videos on aid climbing and big walling
yes! would love to understand aid climbing a bit more
YESSSSS thats exactly what I want to see as well.
Yes! Aiding is pretty obscure art which you can reveal to us!
Yess
Proud daddy moment. My 11 year old daughter walked in while watching intro and went wide eyed and exasperated face. I asked her what she thought was wrong and she flat out said, "too much gear".
A multi-pitch video is exactly what I need. TH-cam "tutorials" are always just a short vid of two guides messing around with ropes at the base of a pitch followed by some elaborate anchor-building. I'd love to see an actual multi-pitch climb explained.
I second this
I couldn't stop laughing for that intro section 😂
Right!!! It was hilarious 🤣
Seeing the whole climb and you struggle is quality content. I can't relate to fearless pros.
Yes more climbing videos! I think you could fill a niche that hasn’t been filled out in TH-cam videos so far. Something like: climbing reality: the stuff they don’t normally teach you, could bring comedy and show more realistic climbing experiences. Like how belaying from above kind of sucks and is uncomfortable sometimes, ****ropes getting tangled on multi pitch climbing***, climbing and getting scared, placing gear and risk management.
I think there is some value in watching you guys climbing a route, making jokes, making decisions, while not particularly being good at it will bring connections to a wider audience. then you can also have videos bringing in other people doing different methods.
How about getting to the next belay station and seeing excellent cracks to build your gear belay and looking at your harness to see that you have all the wrong sizes! Then deciding if those sub-optimal placements you could make with your remaining gear are good enough or if you have to down climb to back-clean for better sized pieces!
I would add 4 parts that are critically important to placing Cam & Nut equipment.
1) strategizing the correct piece for the placement by size and width: I personally accomplish this by using my fingers to measure the crack and then bringing my fingers down to the appropriate cam or nut as a measurement of the crack of half of the Cam for correct placement.
2) placing the cam at the correct angle of the falling whip: this helps ensure that when you fall on the Cam, it is place at the angle in which your body will be after you fall.
3) Stop cams from walking inward or changing angles: Using long sling for extenders for deeply placed Cam's or changing directions will create different angles and allow the cam to walk in word. (ie. that Cam would not have unclipped self when the second climber was flicking the rope around to get it off the rock)
4) setting the cam, once placed, is pretty awesome. So that placement doesn't move or walk around after you leave that location .
otherwise the beginning parody of bringing too much gear and having a shitty belay was hilarious.
*sidenote
Chest harnesses can be very helpful for equipment management because when you lean back-and-forth all your gear throws your weight around as it slides on slings under your armpits not to mention the chokehold on your neck. Where as chest harnesses have gear loops that keep the gear exactly placed where it's clipped because your chest harness gear loops do not slide/move the gear as you shift your weight balance.
bonus tip*
both climber should be tied in with the figure 8 before they start the route. This prevents any ropes from extending up past the following climber as the rope is pulled up!
🌺 Aloha Life 🌴
Very accurate suggestions. Especially the second. Lastly, I find that the finger comparing nut choice is too time consuming.
@@kazo0ie
I completely agree the measuring with your fingers takes a very long time. It's a something I learned at the very beginning of trad climbing. Once you do it enough times you don't have to use that finger trick any longer.
What is your technique for identifying the right piece for the placement when placing Trad equipment?
@@mowgliadventuresnet303 just as you said, if used as a learning trick, all is well. Personally I don't suggest it at all because i have observed, many climbers don't get over it.
Love seeing your unedited nerves on that ultra classic. As a longtime trad climber who’s still scared of trad climbing it’s refreshing to see you nervous, even after all the time you spend off the ground! More videos!
10:55 - YES!!! La Sportiva Mythos & Socks! Been climbing like that for over 3 decades! Thank you Ryan. I don't feel alone anymore.
Love the beginning. Hey! Thanks for all you do. As a... Not new climber? But more actively involved climber... I appreciate all the education you put out. I have been learning a lot, and I appreciate it. I learn a lot from those I climb with, but I also learn a ton from those who climb elsewhere. So thanks for all the effort y'all put into this
Nice! Another reason for the follower to be tied in before you start is that you can buddy check the whole system. Buddy checks are jolly good.
I love it -- it's great to see reasonable routes, as well. Everyone is out there doing 5.13's, and I can barely get off the couch.
This is the best filmed trad video on TH-cam!!
Rappeling with saddlebag ropes would be a sweet video. also rope management for multi pitch switch overs/swinging leads. Awesome content!
I can teach you saddle bags in 30 seconds over the phone! Call me ! 🤪
In the pre-barcode era, price tags were often glued directly onto the item and I generally didn't remove them. At the sort-out at the end of the climb, I would look for the tattered remnants of the price tag to spot my gear, and I didn't have to add paint or tape or some other mark to help me identify my gear. On the one hand the extra weight was never an impediment, and on the other I didn't waste any time or add any weight in order to personalize my hardware.
I know the exact route on that crag you’re on in “tahoe area”. Props to you for carrying the gear up that approach.
What's the name of the route?
@@charlescqian Gingerbread on Upper Spire at Phantom Spires.
That intro tho! 😂 “I ended up leaving the tags on there....don’t think the extra weight is gonna get me”
Yes more climbing stuff
Anchor building when there's no bolts would be useful for a lot of your audience, I heard you say quad anchor and I was like wtf on trad!? But I'm UK so there's no bolted anchors on trad routes... Strange how things are so different from the USA, nobody uses cordlette either but it's so useful if a 240 isn't long enough. I also did a wtf when your belayer had a gri gri...
Oh damn. First off your intro was great. Second that picture of the person with their mouth all jacked up. Damn. I have to watch that video. Great video. Thanks for making them. Very entertaining. Another tip on learning, that you may mention later but I’m only halfway through this video, is to go hang out at popular trad routes and offer to clean routes for people. That way you get to see proper gear placement, as long as the people you’re following are in fact placing the gear properly
No joke, great video. Make more pls.
The Multi-Pitch joke at the end mad me laugh so hard!
Absolutely amazing video, actually LOLed during the intro. Would love to see more climbing videos.
Dude that was the shit. Much thanks and love the laughs. Keep sending and making clips .
Please, make videos about stuff *you* are stoked about.
But yes, I'd love to see more climbing videos. 🧗⛰️
What a great authentic, entertaining, and informative video.
Yes, I love the climbing videos. I need to remember how to climb again after a few years without climbing :(
More climbing stuff would be great.
Ps. This channel may be one of the most under appreciated gems in the internet. Truly a resource not just content.
More climbing stuff is always awesome! I’ve laughed out loud in the intro🤣
Can’t wait to go climbing outside again!
Gate-in is my preffered method. Using the index to pull or hold the gate like a trigger. That is natural!
Could you do some pull tests on stacked gear (2 hexes or nuts stacked together for example)
Yeah, more please. We will all watch and enjoy regardless if it’s about climbing or slack lining, but I’d like to see more climbing content. Especially tips and gear how to’s and advanced gear management. Thanks.
More climbing specifically more trad and always more Bobby
Keep climbing!!!! love all the vids
"This piece is over cammed that's how you know your scared"........ TRUE LOL
I enjoyed this THOROUGHLY. To the thorough, on the thorough, thoroughly, much thorough.
More climbing videos and advanced climbing videos. Your content is awesome.
9:30 clip your sling into a loop then when you need it, just grab the snap link, unclip one end and pull. Someone prob already said this. Best climbing vid I've seen for years.
Doh, just realised he's using 60cm slings so not an option. Ignore me.
Thank you! Excellent, entertaining, real, and at a level that’s realistic for trad climbers that would watch this video!
Appreciate the authenticity here. Yes please more climbing videos!
Yes more climbing stuff would be neat
Clip it and flip it, gates out! I like my thumb on the gate. A vid on using the rope for anchors and tethers at a belay stance would be killer!
Please more climbing vids , it’s nice to see you guys struggle as much as I do
I loved this! Thanks for making it!
this channel is the linus tech tips of climbing
Nice one! Definitely make more climbing videos.
That was really cool! It's been along time since I've led anything (decades actually). But it was so nice to see, it brought back some great memories. I still climb, just in the gym for now and nothing difficult. Old age and injuries will do that to you... It's still loads of fun!
Phantom Spires!! Also, gates out for Harambe.
Is that route called a gingerbread? I gate out
@@tristanniemier3809 Yeah, I'm pretty sure it was Gingerbread.
Yay for fellow gates in people!
Love the funny, fun climbing vid. Keep it coming. Thanks for all the great videos you guys produce.
Good senses of humor. Very Good. Great content.
That route looks really pretty and appropiate to teach how (or how not to) place pro to my kids!
I really like to see more climbing videos
Gate in. I feel like it's more natural to grab and un-clip it that way, especially if you're a little desperate/pumped.
When you're pumped, everything is allowed. God knows what foolish things have been done pumped. It's almost worst than drunk.
Another deadly vid from the boys! Keep em comin and ill keep watching.
legit lol'ed at the "Aggghhh, I don't have any placements for my feet!"
Yeah more climbing stuff please! Rope management on multi pitch, simul climbing, rappels and emergency management would all be awesome!
That's great! It's interesting to see how hard it is.
So true, keep finding other uncomfortable positions. Gear climbing is quite often Type 2 fun... but totally worth it.
One thing I always tell newer tradies when they ask. Especially if you've been playing with gear a little while and have the fundamentals down; go and hire a guide it will save you a HUGE amount of time and frustration when it comes to dialing in your systems and becoming more efficient.
More video's on climbing , big wall little wall any wall 🤘
I’d be pumped to see how you all approach establishing multi pitch, new routes, ground up. All of the looking, planning, binocular time, and planning how you approach a new route.
More climbing, also sport climbing multipitch
Dude!!! Your videos are getting so awesome! Nice climb great video awesome editing good music at the end! More more more please!!!!! Please do another video on trad placement and please please please do one one on top belaying please!! Great stuff Ryan
Multi-pitch video? Yes please.
Just watch this video more than once
Nice work on this one Ryan! There are many other different thoughts for racking up. I think the important thing is to have some sort of system and be used to it.
I would love to see a video on making a trad anchor in multipitch. Various scenarios such as need to protect from upward pull etc.
Love your videos. Great mix of info and honest climbing comedy 👍
More climbing vids please but great full for anything. You guys rock!
I do a thing this way. He does it that way. Conclusion: People are split 50:50.
Basically how people think surveys and statistics work lol.
Using devices like the reverso in multipitch can be very dangerous as you have 0 brake assitance until the first quick ist clipped in. Always out in a dummy runner at your stand!!
I thought this was a really, really good video... also really funny and a great learning atmosphere for aspiring trad climbers #keeptradrad #tradical
GATE IN ALWAYS. And TP is supposed to unroll from the outside
If you have a cat, TP under is better.
It's the same for gates: situational.
More climbing 👍
Nice video! I would like a video about anchors and how to build then when climbing. Most of the videos I've seen just show the theory behind the anchor setup.
Nice weather and climbing place! In Siberia we still have a lot of snow...
I can see what look like little patches of snow in the background, especially when they're at the end of the video. Maybe not as much as in Siberia though
Yes more climbinggg
I've been waiting so long for this!
The first thing he said was "always wear your helmet". Awesome. Wish my buddies would wear their damn helmets.
Have to have at least one Cam with a tag on it. Mostly a conversation piece, but it probly would make it stronger
My only critique, as a guide, is whenever you climb that high to place your 1st piece, you should always say, “on belay” once you’ve clipped the rope, and your belayer should respond, “on belay”, so you know you’re safe to go.
Hi Ryan,
This message is direct for you, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE break test the Beal Escaper, PLEASE!!! Love the channel, love all your videos, you guys are BRILLIANT!!!
I would love a multi pitch climbing video!!
good stuff. how about a video on hanging belay, factor 2 falls....etc? thanks for the great content
Gate out is the standard but sometimes there are places on my harness when in a weird spot that I do gate in
Great vid guys.. For info In the UK we do things a bit different . If you have a meandering route - use twin ropes - it avoids drag and you dont need to extend so much. Also I would be using a lot of larger stoppers and less cams in that climb - saves weight and money.
I came for the joke and stayed for the knowlege !
Wow. What a route. Beautiful
Good video - more on climbing would be brilliant
Craig Luebben suggests jamming at an angle perpendicular to the rock, so you don't tear skin from pivoting the jam upward.
Please. More. Actuality i ´m beginning in trad . Your videos are very helpful.
I have one observation. You could tell that the way you were belaying your partner, on top, can be dangerous when using thin ropes (8.9,9.2,9.4). when pulling up the rope, just like you did in the first pull, backwards beside the rope on top. the rope can jump over the other and the belay system becomes a pulley system without a break. I mean no block. In case of call you could burn your hands and then you partner fall till the end of the rope or next ledge. I dont know if it had never happen to you but the many people in brazil relate that kind of incidents. we have endless creativity to make shit ;)
This is nearly impossible with an ATC, but can happen with other plate and tube devices that are not as deep. The likely failure mode is that the load and brake strands would have a half twist in the device and be completely locked up. This would require the device to be unloaded and remove from the system - take yer prussiks!
*me and my follower stuck on the top after re-watching this video 3 times in a non top out multi pitch* 0-0
Totems make me really happy too😊
Looks like a fun spot. I was a few miles down 50 from there last week. On the Lover's Leap BOOTY wall. You always come down with more gear than when you started!
Great video. I'd love to see more climbing stuff 👍👍👍
This was great. I would love to see some more stuff on climbing please.
I'm sure that in the past, I've made almost every mistake possible apart from decking out. Initially I learned from books, as there weren't any local climbers, so I had to learn from books, which was a dangerous and hit and miss process. Eventually after surviving about 3 years, I did a couple of ropework courses, and hooked up with some more experienced climbers, which greatly survived my survival prospects! Climbing really isn't something that you can learn from a book and expect good results!
Climbing, climbing , climbing ! 🥳