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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ส.ค. 2024
- The holes have been drilled, next is the resin process! AMI instructor and Chair of the Cumbria Bolt Fund Dan Robinson shows us how to undertake the glueing installation of a bolt.
These are not designed to be standalone education videos and anyone intending to bolt for climbing should seek individual training from experienced or qualified persons before attempting anything you see in these clips.
Thanks to the Cumbria Bolt Fund, AMI and Land and Sky Media for contributing to this BMC TV bolting skills film series.
Want to see more safe bolts when you're out climbing on the Lakes Sport and Slate crags? Support the Cumbria Bolt Fund: www.cumbriabolt...
READ: BMC Bolting Policy www.thebmc.co....
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Very nice! Thanks for methodically going through your process.
Seems like a lot of wasted hardener, are the mixing tubes already at maximum mixing efficiency? It's like someone rolled the keg down the stairs before tapping it.
Any thoughts on using the new capsule style glue ancors?
Hi, I am a DIY expert. Is there anything stopping me from renewing a rusty old bolt on a crag in the Peak District?
Personally, I'd leave it to those with public liability insurance!
Please don't bolt The Peak! There have been years of debate around which routes should/shouldn't be bolted. This includes not renewing some routes which should remain or be brought back to original for trad climbing.
If you bolt the wrong route it's likely your bolt will meet an angle grinder and be filled.
Please check UKC website for the route as someone will almost certainly have answered this.
“DIY expert”
@@twestgard2 haha
Fischer make a better product
Hilti also.
pleace write here what kind of glue from fischer..thank you
@@george020571 fischer FIS VL 300 T( 300ml) or Fischer FIS VL 410 C (410ml)
@@michaldzurech9471 thank you
RKem does 2 types polyester and vinylester.. vinylester being better, waterproof and more resistant to weather and heavy duty applications. He hasn't mentioned in the video that the resin will set in 5 minutes in weathers of 15C plus so by the time you finish the first bolt your nozzle is ruined a need another one. Resin is bad for the environment in liquid form. The fist squeeze will remain soft and it will kill wildlife.. best to squeeze in a bag and carry safely to dispose than leave in the rock
It's wrong, you have to remove the resin in excess the day after... and the rock will remain the way it was. Greetings from Italy.
come la togli?
@@lorygod1541 La maggior parte si sbriciola da sola quando stringi il dado, se usi una placchetta su barra filettata (che andrà a posizionarsi su una superficie perfettamente piana), io applico preventivamente, a casa, anche una spennellata di convertitore di ruggine sul taglio della barra inox... Così l'insieme dovrebbe essere teoricamente eterno. Se usi un fittone rimuovi la resina in eccesso, il giorno dopo, con uno scalpellino (la resina che deborda non aderisce, se non la tocchi, ed è fragilissima).
@@lorygod1541... E niente guanti... Che non se ne può più... 😉
@@lorygod1541 Ho dimenticato un dettaglio, se usi una barra filettata, dopo averla pucciata, per circa un cm, nel convertitore di ruggine posiziona già il dado. Questo gli darà una debole incollatura ed impedirà che lo stesso ruoti mentre lo avviti, LENTAMENTE, nella resina. Io con una barra INOX di 1 metro faccio 14 ancoraggi. Mai avuto problemi, neanche sull'arenaria. L'importante è verificare sempre che i due componenti siano ben miscelati. Fatti dare sempre qualche beccuccio in più e nel dubbio butta via la cartuccia.
@@lorygod1541 Sei rimasto soddisfatto delle risposte? Oppure ho solo dato da mangiare le perle ai porci?
just what i want my life to be hanging on, glued bolts lol no thank you
This is what is WRONG with contemporary climbing. WTF? Why would you want to take a Bunnings hardware up the mountain to make a manufactured route? Go to an indoor climbing wall if you can't cut it in the real world. STOP GLUEING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You watch the same video, he’s showing this is a hard anchor for clipping off when climbing the rout already there not to fall and you think there just clips on the mountain naturally nobody but the 1% would be free soloing and that’s what we would have to do if not for people climbing routs like this that set anchors to clip off and make sure if you fall and your temp hardware falls out that has 10x-100x the strength depending on the hardware used to stop you from idk.. oh yeah falling to your death when you make on fatal mistake
Also it’s not like he is glueing holds and chipping to make a whole new corse I’m right there with you if that’s what you thought cause that shits just lazy like “ oh it’s not easy enough so I’m gonna make it easier”, and ruins it for other people capable of making the climbs
@@dylandrake58you ever hear of trad climbing?
@@DeShark88 I don’t feel like I argued agains protection I more said glueing is okay with respect to the natural course bad glueing/ carving is just kinda shitty to me to see someone chisel handholds, and use cement or glue of some kind to make a bigger jug I think anchoring with glue is a smart thing to do if you wanna live a long life
exactly. our lives are basically being hung by glue, lol no thank you