Replacing a rusty bolt with one made of stainless steel is worthwhile even if the rusty bolt is probably safe. We had a lot of ancient bolts where I used to climb. They were easy to spot because of rust stains down the rock. Visual impact is impact and we should keep it to a minimum.
Dude, if this is how all of your videos are going to be done, your channel is now my new favorite educational/climbing channel. I'm still relatively new to climbing (and a beginner sport climber) so I greatly value knowing what to look for on bolts for my own reassurance. Thank you!
Great video, only this November I remember clipping a bolt in Spain, only to have the hanger plus the draw fall right off because the nut was gone! Really added to the spicyness of the crux above 😬
3:10 To get approximate idea of how much rust ate metal away, rust usually bulk up 10 fold, so if there is 10mm of rust flakes 1mm of steel was consumed. The bulking up can be a cause for fractures around the anchor and loose connection to base.
This short video is a great introduction to climbing bolts. Something like this could be included in any Gym to Crag program, or first time outdoor climbing program. Keep up the good work Bobby!
Insta clicked when I saw this to enjoy your wonderful energy and learn something new. I've never thought too much about climbing bolts, as you said at the start bolt failure is very rare and so far I haven't come across one that seemed iffy enough that I wouldn't have trusted it. Pretty much all of the things you mentioned would have crossed that subconscious iffyness line (corroded, bent, loose, sticking out, too close to an edge) but it's good to have it more conscious. Also need to pay attention to what kind they're using here and maybe add a small wrench to my bag. Thanks again for an enjoyable 7ish minutes full of information and positive vibes.
Glad you enjoyed the video. You are right, bad bolts are pretty obvious. Lots of people trust bolts blindly bc they have always worked, without a basic understanding of how they function. I hope the content that Ryan and I have produced helps people understand the gear they hang on more completely. Thanks for the kind words.
@@bobbyhutton1989 Yes I've seen a lot of the gear carnage and while I grimace at seeing new gear pulled to pieces (especially rope) they have provided a lot of valuable, easily accessible and understandable information on what is super good enough, what isn't and everything in between.
just learning how to climb on rope (I've come from boldering) and it's slightly terrerfying to watch videos about what could go wrong, but also reassuring to learn what to look for and what to do in that event, cheers
Totally. Bolt failure is super rare so spending time worrying that every bolt will fail is not productive, but blindly trusting every bolt is a mistake as well.
Good safety content. These are all good sense, and also clearly things that someone might not have thought through very much on their own. My own safety background is from working around industrial stuff, and I've learned how important it is to talk about even things that are obvious or "common sense". Inexperience or habituation can prevent someone from recognizing a safety issue. I'm already enjoying your channel quite a bit, even though I'm not a climber and don't plant to start.
Totally. I find that, at least in my area, many climbers don't have practical backgrounds. They haven't had the opportunity to develop that common sense. Lots of engineers and tech industry people.
Great video Bobby! I think an interesting followup video would be on the decision making as you climb and encounter a bad bolt (in which I guess there are three basic options, keep going up, retreat on the sketchy bolt or find a nearby route and go to those bolts). You could also cover bailing on a sketchy bolt (the way I learned this at least was with a prusik to the rope, which would make a fall like a "normal" lead fall if the bolt blows and you are recovering your gear as you get lowered down). That also naturally leads into the discussion of leaving a maillon vs leaving a nonlocker or locker. Thanks for the awesome content, I look forward for more.
Once i came across a glue in bolt where the hanger part of it was bent a lot and to my surprise it was cracked. It looked like two hooks comming out of the Rock. It was a standard glue in bolt. I assume it was hit by rockfall.
Funny, I just came across some leapers hangers today for the first time. There were two hangers and a third five piece bolt with a washer and a chain. With no real other options I just did a three point anchor and did a direct belay for my 2nd. Everything worked out but I was a little sketched out. Luckily it wasn't on the route because I would not whip on those skinny ass hangers.
Hi Bobby, thanks for the great video! I’m curious, have you ever heard of the bolt end of a quick draw unclipping from a ½” SS wedge bolt if the gate is facing towards the nut? Presumably because of the bigger nut? Thanks!
I haven't had that problem but it is possible. You can unclip many draws from many different hangers if your rotate the draw in just the wrong way. Definitely something to pay attention to, but low on my list of worries sport climbing .
Never seen one on the west coast. More of a caving thing in my understanding. Heard of them in North Carolina. We did break some aluminum hangers in a recent HowNot2 video.
@@bobbyhutton1989 yes very much a cave thing, I am a caver not really a climber. I was just wondering as they where quite cheap and easy to drill if they ever got used back I the days befor SDS drill or places you aren't aloud power tools. 👍 We have removed quite a Spits is places that are either very dodgy or just need rebolting with good bolts. I love all your video keep up the amazing work you do 👌👌👌
so what's the point of all the sleeve pieces on a 5-piece? I've never seen one IRL. ours just have a single sleeve piece, (unless it's long, then they stack up a few)
Good question. Some are spacers and others crush when tightened. Depending on the length they can have 8 or nine pieces. Personally I think they are super finicky to place and a huge PITA to replace. Unfortunately they are a very common bolt over here. The crowd that dislikes glue ins bc they aren't used to them really likes these for softer rock. In addition to all their problems they are more expensive than glue ins to place.
Looks like some have plastic/brass spacers too. That's a shame because the simpler ones we have in Australia are really great to use and usually easy to remove. I'll bear that in mind when I eventually make the vid that my removal techniques probably won't work on the 5-piece versions
I've fallen on quite a few of those. The 1/4” one are spooky. The 5/16" can be surprisingly stout and difficult to remove in granite. Regardless, I've replaced a bunch.
They built little cottonwood canyon Salt Lake City Utah granite stone with button heads bolts. We always were taught never rest directly on the bolt, always be 2 ft below the bolt if possible. Resting 90° perpendicular angle risks spooky stuff can happen. I hated climbing on those in the '90s. That's why I favored limestone sport climbing in Utah county.
I've experienced what I've called a perma-spinner: put my wrench on the wedge bolt and the whole thing spins (nut and bolt spin together) this is maybe not as concerning as I originally thought since it has that wedge against outward pressure? I specifically remember one local example (Utah) on a single pitch, 2 bolt anchor and the other was solid. Think I reported that one. However, I know I've been on others. Would a good test be to pull on it both outward and downward?
Spinners aren't (strictly) immediately dangerous as the wedge should engage if pulled on, but a lot of spinning might wear down the wedge parts and prevent it from engaging as it should. You might be able to hold the bolt end with locking pliers to stop it spinning and then try to tighten it. That may not work if the nut is really seized but may lessen the urgency of replacement
Exactly. A trick I have had success with is levering the whole bolt up by prying under the hanger. A tuning fork (bolt removal tool) works great to wedge the bolt up into a position it won't spin.
Replacing a rusty bolt with one made of stainless steel is worthwhile even if the rusty bolt is probably safe. We had a lot of ancient bolts where I used to climb. They were easy to spot because of rust stains down the rock. Visual impact is impact and we should keep it to a minimum.
I agree.
Dude, if this is how all of your videos are going to be done, your channel is now my new favorite educational/climbing channel. I'm still relatively new to climbing (and a beginner sport climber) so I greatly value knowing what to look for on bolts for my own reassurance. Thank you!
Sweet. Glad you got some value out of it.
Great info 🙂
Glad it was helpful!
Go bobby!
Thanks
Good Video, thats a important thing.
Indeed.
good work keep it up.
Thanks, Back at you.
great content! thanks for this
Glad you liked it!
Bobby is the Man
Glad you enjoyed the video.
Love your point that if the work you can see looks sketchy then what else is wrong that you do not see.
Yes, those things definitely make me look closer.
I know nothing about climbing gear, but on stainless steel cable rigging SOP is to assume that surface rust indicates that the cable is compromised.
Makes sense. In my area SS doesn't rust, the zinc plated and mild steel is what rusts. If SS corrodes it corrodes bad and they use Titanium.
Glad to see you doing videos outside of HN2 because we just need a little more Bobby than your travel budget will allow for. :)
ha ha ha. Now that I have figured out how to record decent video, I will be making more virtual appearances in HN2 vids.
Thanks! Good to know.
Another great video Bobby!
Thanks!
No idea you had your own channel. Sweet
Yes, little project I have been working on during the bad weather.
Thank you Bobby
Love the content
Glad you enjoy it!
Great video, only this November I remember clipping a bolt in Spain, only to have the hanger plus the draw fall right off because the nut was gone! Really added to the spicyness of the crux above 😬
Gnarly
FINALLY another video! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, Bobby!
The weather finally got nice so I will be spending time actually climbing. Glad you enjoyed it.
Amazing videos brother. Thank you for the knowledge
Glad you enjoyed it.
3:10 To get approximate idea of how much rust ate metal away, rust usually bulk up 10 fold, so if there is 10mm of rust flakes 1mm of steel was consumed.
The bulking up can be a cause for fractures around the anchor and loose connection to base.
Thanks for sharing that.
Good discussion and valid information imo, Bobby. From a fellow experienced, qualified installer.
Thank's Glad you enjoyed it.
Awesome video 📹
well explained 🎓
concise 💜
Thanks Mowgli!
this video is a must see for every beginner when he/she starts climbing outside, great stuff Bobby
Thanks. I wish I knew this stuff when I started climbing.
This short video is a great introduction to climbing bolts. Something like this could be included in any Gym to Crag program, or first time outdoor climbing program. Keep up the good work Bobby!
I appreciate the kind feedback. I always hope fund my content helpful
Insta clicked when I saw this to enjoy your wonderful energy and learn something new.
I've never thought too much about climbing bolts, as you said at the start bolt failure is very rare and so far I haven't come across one that seemed iffy enough that I wouldn't have trusted it.
Pretty much all of the things you mentioned would have crossed that subconscious iffyness line (corroded, bent, loose, sticking out, too close to an edge) but it's good to have it more conscious. Also need to pay attention to what kind they're using here and maybe add a small wrench to my bag.
Thanks again for an enjoyable 7ish minutes full of information and positive vibes.
Glad you enjoyed the video.
You are right, bad bolts are pretty obvious. Lots of people trust bolts blindly bc they have always worked, without a basic understanding of how they function. I hope the content that Ryan and I have produced helps people understand the gear they hang on more completely.
Thanks for the kind words.
@@bobbyhutton1989 Yes I've seen a lot of the gear carnage and while I grimace at seeing new gear pulled to pieces (especially rope) they have provided a lot of valuable, easily accessible and understandable information on what is super good enough, what isn't and everything in between.
Thanks for the good info and a great video with your humor and wisdom to enjoy ❤
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks Bobby. Another A-A-A quality video (audio-video-information).
Thanks for the positive review.
just learning how to climb on rope (I've come from boldering) and it's slightly terrerfying to watch videos about what could go wrong, but also reassuring to learn what to look for and what to do in that event, cheers
Totally. Bolt failure is super rare so spending time worrying that every bolt will fail is not productive, but blindly trusting every bolt is a mistake as well.
@@bobbyhutton1989 as the old saying goes, trust but verify
I really like they way you present the topics, thanks a lot for the effort and the information you put out there!
Thanks! Appreciate the kind words.
Thanks Bobby. Well explained and summarized. Nice! 😎
Glad you liked it!
Smc death hangar. That's good marketing lol
Pretty sure SMC wasn't happy that became the common name. We test a bunch if them in next weeks video on Hownot2.
Bobby you made me like the video already in the first 30 sec! Keep up the good work!
Thanks! Working on some more content.
Good safety content. These are all good sense, and also clearly things that someone might not have thought through very much on their own. My own safety background is from working around industrial stuff, and I've learned how important it is to talk about even things that are obvious or "common sense". Inexperience or habituation can prevent someone from recognizing a safety issue.
I'm already enjoying your channel quite a bit, even though I'm not a climber and don't plant to start.
Totally. I find that, at least in my area, many climbers don't have practical backgrounds. They haven't had the opportunity to develop that common sense. Lots of engineers and tech industry people.
Amazing video as always. Keep it up Bobby!
Thanks! Will do!
love the video, keep the good stuff coming.
Glad you enjoyed it. More episodes in the works
Awesome video dude! Clear and concise!
Glad you liked it!
Great video!! Love the clarity and educational style.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video Bobby! I think an interesting followup video would be on the decision making as you climb and encounter a bad bolt (in which I guess there are three basic options, keep going up, retreat on the sketchy bolt or find a nearby route and go to those bolts). You could also cover bailing on a sketchy bolt (the way I learned this at least was with a prusik to the rope, which would make a fall like a "normal" lead fall if the bolt blows and you are recovering your gear as you get lowered down). That also naturally leads into the discussion of leaving a maillon vs leaving a nonlocker or locker. Thanks for the awesome content, I look forward for more.
Good thoughts.
I think this channel is a great compliment to how not to.
Thank you.
Agreed 💯
Once i came across a glue in bolt where the hanger part of it was bent a lot and to my surprise it was cracked. It looked like two hooks comming out of the Rock. It was a standard glue in bolt.
I assume it was hit by rockfall.
Wild. Did you get a photo?
No i have not tanken a picture.
When i come across it i will take one. Might take a few weeks due to the snow situation.
I will let you know
Funny, I just came across some leapers hangers today for the first time. There were two hangers and a third five piece bolt with a washer and a chain. With no real other options I just did a three point anchor and did a direct belay for my 2nd. Everything worked out but I was a little sketched out. Luckily it wasn't on the route because I would not whip on those skinny ass hangers.
We will probably be seeing those leeper gangers for another decade or two on more remote routes.
Hi Bobby, thanks for the great video! I’m curious, have you ever heard of the bolt end of a quick draw unclipping from a ½” SS wedge bolt if the gate is facing towards the nut? Presumably because of the bigger nut? Thanks!
I haven't had that problem but it is possible. You can unclip many draws from many different hangers if your rotate the draw in just the wrong way. Definitely something to pay attention to, but low on my list of worries sport climbing .
Don't want to be picky.. ok yess I will :P , can we get 2160p please 1080p itches my eyes :D.
Thank you for all your good work !
No
@@bobbyhutton1989 haha Damn I tryed.
Did you ever have Petzl Spits over here? They are pretty scary things, 1" long bolt on an aluminium hanger 😬
Never seen one on the west coast. More of a caving thing in my understanding. Heard of them in North Carolina. We did break some aluminum hangers in a recent HowNot2 video.
@@bobbyhutton1989 yes very much a cave thing, I am a caver not really a climber. I was just wondering as they where quite cheap and easy to drill if they ever got used back I the days befor SDS drill or places you aren't aloud power tools. 👍
We have removed quite a Spits is places that are either very dodgy or just need rebolting with good bolts.
I love all your video keep up the amazing work you do 👌👌👌
so what's the point of all the sleeve pieces on a 5-piece? I've never seen one IRL. ours just have a single sleeve piece, (unless it's long, then they stack up a few)
Good question. Some are spacers and others crush when tightened. Depending on the length they can have 8 or nine pieces. Personally I think they are super finicky to place and a huge PITA to replace. Unfortunately they are a very common bolt over here. The crowd that dislikes glue ins bc they aren't used to them really likes these for softer rock. In addition to all their problems they are more expensive than glue ins to place.
Looks like some have plastic/brass spacers too. That's a shame because the simpler ones we have in Australia are really great to use and usually easy to remove. I'll bear that in mind when I eventually make the vid that my removal techniques probably won't work on the 5-piece versions
Excited to see what you put together. Look up how people remove 5 pieces. It is a production.
Keep in touch.
Bobbyhutton1989 gmail
Never new button head where so short!!
Yes they are tiny, they do make larger ones but most are that size.
I've fallen on quite a few of those. The 1/4” one are spooky. The 5/16" can be surprisingly stout and difficult to remove in granite. Regardless, I've replaced a bunch.
They built little cottonwood canyon Salt Lake City Utah granite stone with button heads bolts. We always were taught never rest directly on the bolt, always be 2 ft below the bolt if possible. Resting 90° perpendicular angle risks spooky stuff can happen. I hated climbing on those in the '90s. That's why I favored limestone sport climbing in Utah county.
I've experienced what I've called a perma-spinner: put my wrench on the wedge bolt and the whole thing spins (nut and bolt spin together) this is maybe not as concerning as I originally thought since it has that wedge against outward pressure? I specifically remember one local example (Utah) on a single pitch, 2 bolt anchor and the other was solid. Think I reported that one. However, I know I've been on others. Would a good test be to pull on it both outward and downward?
Spinners aren't (strictly) immediately dangerous as the wedge should engage if pulled on, but a lot of spinning might wear down the wedge parts and prevent it from engaging as it should. You might be able to hold the bolt end with locking pliers to stop it spinning and then try to tighten it. That may not work if the nut is really seized but may lessen the urgency of replacement
Exactly. A trick I have had success with is levering the whole bolt up by prying under the hanger. A tuning fork (bolt removal tool) works great to wedge the bolt up into a position it won't spin.
Thanks, Bobby! I learned a lot!!
Glad to hear it!
Can u do a video on what to wash a rope with? Love to see a slacksnap involved as well. Love that you have your own channel now!
Ryan and I are working on that very episode. should be done in the next few months.
if you shook a rope briefly...u could title this vid 'bolts come out and 30ft whipper' 😂
ok?
@@bobbyhutton1989 it's funny to me, bc your title was accurate, and 80% of my fav YTers get sucked into clickbaiting every title beyond recognition
@@Se7nDust Totally. Trying to figure out a balance there. Trying to keep it accurate but interesting.