" A lot of people have a love-hate relationship with slab climbing. " This is my mental state cycle about slab climbing: I haven't climb slabs in a while ---> Kinda looking forward to climbing some slab ----> Hmmm... why am I climbing that slab again? ----> I hate slab climbing ----> Hmmm.... I haven't climbed slabs in a while...
Thanks! Slabs are my fav climbing. Give me balancy moves instead of steep, stenuous rock. Slabs also train technique, as arm strength becomes less usable.
This is fantastic and a wonderful refresher for anyone going to visit Looking Glass. Speaking of The Nose, do you know if it is possible to do the main 3 repels with a single 80m rope instead of twin 60's or a tagline? Thanks again for all your wonderful content!
I don’t think so… maybe… normally I do a 70: downclimb from top of p4 to parking lot (there’s a class 3 climb at skiers right. Then double rope rap from eyelits at top of p3 to top of P2. Then use a Beal escaper to rap a full rope length from P2 to bottom.
Great info. Committment can be key and difficult to execute. One thing you touched one was hand placement. I've found that one hand eye level and one hand low, waist level, can be helpful. Using the low hand on the side your moving your foot can help. Anything that gives you the slightest bit of confidence is beneficial.
The coefficient of static friction is a constant for two given materials. You cannot change it by increasing surface area. I’m not saying more surface area is bad technique, but to say that more surface area increases the coefficient of static friction is fundamentally wrong.
Todd, exactly what you said. The key with the technique though is to fully realize the coefficient. At low surface area, the chance of having loose rock or little sand particles is higher than if I have maxed surface area where statistically more of my shoe rubber contacts the rock so I get more of a chance to realize the predefined (and constant) coefficient of friction… fun to nerd out though on physics with climbing ;-)
This is only true for inelastic materials. Coefficients of friction of elastic materials (like rubber) can behave non-linearly and therefore can vary with surface area.
Great video! However, I don’t think telling people to hold their breath to engage their core was the right verbiage. Deep exhale engages your core, holding your breath doesn’t engage your core and under stress can cause you to black out.
" A lot of people have a love-hate relationship with slab climbing. "
This is my mental state cycle about slab climbing:
I haven't climb slabs in a while ---> Kinda looking forward to climbing some slab ----> Hmmm... why am I climbing that slab again? ----> I hate slab climbing ----> Hmmm.... I haven't climbed slabs in a while...
the vicious cycle
Best slab technique instruction I’ve seen. Thinking about the physics behind it puts it all together. GOATed video. 🙏🏻🙏🏻🙏🏻
Awesome compliment, thanks man!!
Love your videos! The amount of learning paired with the right amount of mullet is perfect!
YES... the perfect ratio is what I shoot for.
I started climbing on Slab… when you get used to 50-60ft run outs on granite slab, it makes any foot chip feet amazing on a sport route
So true... the mental commitment is definitely part of the skill set.
If you said mullet over toes I would of lost it 🤣. Thanks for the awesome instructional video!
Dude, so funny, I should have said that.
Absolutely fantastic video. Just showed it to all my friends who are newer climbers before I take them out to the crag tomorrow.
Great video on slab climbing, and I love that you included the physics details!
THANK YOU there is not enough content out there about slab climbing.
I hate this because slab is by far my favorite
for sure. so fun!
Great slab tutorial! Can't wait to get back out to NC and test it on looking glass.
Another very helpful video. Thanks and keep the great instructional videos coming!
For sure! thanks for the encouragement!!!
i always tell my patient's "nose over toes" when im training them to get up from sitting down!
Thank you, this is the best slab technique video on the internet!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! Slabs are my fav climbing. Give me balancy moves instead of steep, stenuous rock. Slabs also train technique, as arm strength becomes less usable.
This is fantastic and a wonderful refresher for anyone going to visit Looking Glass. Speaking of The Nose, do you know if it is possible to do the main 3 repels with a single 80m rope instead of twin 60's or a tagline? Thanks again for all your wonderful content!
I don’t think so… maybe… normally I do a 70: downclimb from top of p4 to parking lot (there’s a class 3 climb at skiers right. Then double rope rap from eyelits at top of p3 to top of P2. Then use a Beal escaper to rap a full rope length from P2 to bottom.
NOw cover how to fall on slab without hitting your face.
nothing like a nice starfish face plant on a slab fall
Great video. You need to get out to currahee mountain. It’s up in North Georgia. It’s all slab climbing too
Yeah, I still haven't been there. I need to go check it out.
Great info. Committment can be key and difficult to execute. One thing you touched one was hand placement. I've found that one hand eye level and one hand low, waist level, can be helpful. Using the low hand on the side your moving your foot can help. Anything that gives you the slightest bit of confidence is beneficial.
Yeah, great note on that technique!
Thought this was currahee when you first came off the ground! Great video, learned a lot!
Thanks man, we still need to get out there at some point!!!
@@summitseekersexperience absolutely! Would love that!
Great video! Cheers from Alberta, Canada.
Random question, but what brand/model pants are you wearing? I was looking for a pair of red ones like that.
La Sportiva talus
The coefficient of static friction is a constant for two given materials. You cannot change it by increasing surface area. I’m not saying more surface area is bad technique, but to say that more surface area increases the coefficient of static friction is fundamentally wrong.
Todd, exactly what you said. The key with the technique though is to fully realize the coefficient. At low surface area, the chance of having loose rock or little sand particles is higher than if I have maxed surface area where statistically more of my shoe rubber contacts the rock so I get more of a chance to realize the predefined (and constant) coefficient of friction… fun to nerd out though on physics with climbing ;-)
This is only true for inelastic materials. Coefficients of friction of elastic materials (like rubber) can behave non-linearly and therefore can vary with surface area.
@@Slab_Justice_Warrior oh man, that must be in the advanced physics classes. Thanks for clearing that up for me.
Great video! However, I don’t think telling people to hold their breath to engage their core was the right verbiage. Deep exhale engages your core, holding your breath doesn’t engage your core and under stress can cause you to black out.
I like your videos but goddamn cut out the ‘uhs’!
My channel is a constant work in progress
That area and tree in the backgroud look a bit familiar... www.danieljvickers.com/static/images/Finished%20AMGA%20SPI%20Course.jpg
Nice