I just did this job on a 2004 Outback. Some notes: I had to remove the radiator to get enough room to fit an impact in the engine bay to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. In order to do so, I had to detach the transmission cooler lines from the radiator and remove the mounting brackets on the top of the radiator. Then, the radiator pulled out of the car from the top. My short impact didn't have enough guts, so I put a breaker bar on the balancer bolt and rested the breaker bar against the frame rail. I removed the fuel pump fuse and bumped the starter over until the bolt broke free. If you're installing a new belt, it will be very tight, so it will be much more difficult than what is shown in this video. I had to use "Easy Fix"'s video for help with this. When torqueing down the water pump bolts to 8 ft-lbs, I had 2 of them strip and pull threads out of the block. I had to drill and retap the holes. They were M6 x 1.0; I tapped them to M7 x 1.0. Do not overtighten the bolts on the cover of the engine. I overtightened 1 of them on the bottom, and it broke the ear off the engine block. It shouldn't affect much, but it's not ideal.
You are an outstanding mechanic. Through your excellent video, I can now do this job with confidence . The car you are working on was severely corroded. I would have replaced all the hoses and clamps and painted the new water pump housing that was severely corroded with rust proof paint. Thank you for the excellent detailed video.
Thank you for this excellent presentation.Very glad to see a female mechanic doing such a great professional job. I would trust you with my car anytime. Carl
OK, time to go do this!!! Just watched as a reminder of the steps. This is the best done video which I've probably watched 3 to 4 times over the last year preping. It's clear, very well detailed with the steps and gotcha's, BUT, not a lot of frivolous none since chatter!!! I'll reply with any issue I come across.
Thank you so much.... I don't know your name.... I do appreciate you so much. And I like your videos, top notch teaching. Projects like this can be very stressful for us laymen, your calm voice and instruction it shows me that I can do this. Thanks again!
It does help if you leave g2 cogged pulley off till you have the belt on and lined up then slip it in snug it up then torque it down check your marks and spin the engine
I would like to know more about the prybar technique to compress the hydraulic tensioner. I tried with several large screw driver and could not get the tensioner to budge. How long is that prybar? Did you remove the radiator fan or overflow reservoir to get enough room?
The g2 cog pulley has an indent on one side and a raised edge on the other side. Which way does it go on? I finished mine and it was squeeling and building up belt shavings/powder on that pulley. I think it is because the pulley is on backwards or the water pump went on a little cock eyed. Not sure which yet. I cants see how you out the g2 pulley on in the video clearly.
What do you do if the cams are not in alignment when you put the crank at top dead center? Can you rotate them counter clockwise a few degrees slowly or what is the procedure?
"make sure your marks are all lined up" but do you show how important it is to keep them where they were? 2 marks on each sprocket and I think it matters where exactly they are.
How about that foam gasket that is on top of water pump housing? That doesn't come in any kit I see. It's smashed in there and magically not supposed to tear?
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I just did this job on a 2004 Outback. Some notes: I had to remove the radiator to get enough room to fit an impact in the engine bay to remove the harmonic balancer bolt. In order to do so, I had to detach the transmission cooler lines from the radiator and remove the mounting brackets on the top of the radiator. Then, the radiator pulled out of the car from the top. My short impact didn't have enough guts, so I put a breaker bar on the balancer bolt and rested the breaker bar against the frame rail. I removed the fuel pump fuse and bumped the starter over until the bolt broke free.
If you're installing a new belt, it will be very tight, so it will be much more difficult than what is shown in this video. I had to use "Easy Fix"'s video for help with this.
When torqueing down the water pump bolts to 8 ft-lbs, I had 2 of them strip and pull threads out of the block. I had to drill and retap the holes. They were M6 x 1.0; I tapped them to M7 x 1.0.
Do not overtighten the bolts on the cover of the engine. I overtightened 1 of them on the bottom, and it broke the ear off the engine block. It shouldn't affect much, but it's not ideal.
You are an outstanding mechanic. Through your excellent video, I can now do this job with confidence .
The car you are working on was severely corroded.
I would have replaced all the hoses and clamps and painted the new water pump housing that was severely corroded with rust proof paint.
Thank you for the excellent detailed video.
This lady tech. Is the best I've seen, I'm a ase master tech. 40+ years.
Thank you for this excellent presentation.Very glad to see a female mechanic doing such a great professional job. I would trust you with my car anytime. Carl
OK, time to go do this!!! Just watched as a reminder of the steps. This is the best done video which I've probably watched 3 to 4 times over the last year preping. It's clear, very well detailed with the steps and gotcha's, BUT, not a lot of frivolous none since chatter!!! I'll reply with any issue I come across.
+@bgable7707 Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Thank you so much.... I don't know your name.... I do appreciate you so much. And I like your videos, top notch teaching. Projects like this can be very stressful for us laymen, your calm voice and instruction it shows me that I can do this. Thanks again!
Thank you for your terrific job - your the best mechanic i have seen on youtube - now i can do it myself with your superb teaching skills
Very thorough, informative, and professional.....gonna make this job a cakewalk...great job!!!!!
They did not take the time to show the most critical part on aligning the belt with the pulleys
It does help if you leave g2 cogged pulley off till you have the belt on and lined up then slip it in snug it up then torque it down check your marks and spin the engine
I would like to know more about the prybar technique to compress the hydraulic tensioner. I tried with several large screw driver and could not get the tensioner to budge. How long is that prybar? Did you remove the radiator fan or overflow reservoir to get enough room?
The g2 cog pulley has an indent on one side and a raised edge on the other side. Which way does it go on? I finished mine and it was squeeling and building up belt shavings/powder on that pulley. I think it is because the pulley is on backwards or the water pump went on a little cock eyed. Not sure which yet. I cants see how you out the g2 pulley on in the video clearly.
First class video, thank you very much for this.
AWESOME!!! I HAVE SUBARU OUT BACK V6 2003 250.000ML. I fix it my self, but the water pump is broken just today, is time to though out of the way?
Made it look so easy
What do you do if the cams are not in alignment when you put the crank at top dead center? Can you rotate them counter clockwise a few degrees slowly or what is the procedure?
Outstanding job.
What if you rotated the belt twice and it is not lined up?
"make sure your marks are all lined up" but do you show how important it is to keep them where they were? 2 marks on each sprocket and I think it matters where exactly they are.
Excellent video. Great detail and explanation.
Skips most crucial part of aligning the belt
What if both belts break and you put new ones and n and car won’t start now
How about that foam gasket that is on top of water pump housing? That doesn't come in any kit I see. It's smashed in there and magically not supposed to tear?
Excellent video.
I don't miss all that rust...
Great video
Well done
Good work❤❤
for some reason nothing is working for my car
thankyou girlfriend