11 years later and this just helped me out so much. You can't seem to find this level of explanation on youtube anymore and i appreciate the time you took to make this video. Thanks!
Just wanted to thank you for your Subaru videos. I am a 20-plus year vet of the trade and a shop owner. Customer brought her Subaru with head gasket failure, and having no experience with Subaru, I tried to beg off on the job. She insisted that I could do it and she didn't trust anyone else to do it. Needless to say, I was a bit intimidated. Found your videos and they really gave be a much needed boost of confidence. Reading the procedure in a manual is ok, but watching and hearing an expert is always better. Thank you again!
If you look down on the left side on the back of the block where the tourque converter meets the block there is a 1/4 inch hole that allows you to place a Philips head screwdriver or pin punch and then just push or pull on the 22mm wrwnch you will then lock the block and you can loosen or tighten the pulley bolt as needed
have to say out of all of the Subaru 2.5 timing belt videos this one was the best. no fluff just good information, ill keep a watch out for more of your videos.
Thanks for posting. Just watched this for the fourth or fifth time this morning. Its now 2:30 p.m. and after welding some round and square stock together to make a tool to hold the balancer and beating my breaker bar nearly flat, I'm putting the new kit on and looking forward to not being a nervous wreck every time I drive the severely neglected ol girl. 166k miles and the previous owner said he personally changed the belt twice only to pull the cover and see the factory one hanging by a thread. Dodged that one by a hair. Thanks again. Hope all is well.
I have a 2.5L engine and have never changed a timing belt before-myself. It's coming up this year. Thanks for posting this video. I'm going to use it as a reference for doing my first one.
Thanks Brian, I have an 01 Ram and an 01 Subaru, your videos have saved me a ton of headaches before I do anything I looks for your videos. Loyal fan, Michael
Thanx Brian. I am a computer analyst and have never attempted to work on my car (saabaru 9-2x Aero) before, but your videos are very informative. I am now working on swapping out all my struts / springs with H&R springs and Koni Inserts, and watching your vids are very helpful. More Subaru videos!!
I just did my Legacy belts with the help of this video, and I can't thank you enough for your time and effort. I had never done a timing belt before, so I was scared! Thanks so much!
Brian, I love your videos man. whenever I'm looking to work on my car I check your TH-cam page first because I know it'll contain all the information I need to accomplish the task at hand.
btw, I literally just found out you're a skier by watching this video. I'm a p.s.i.a alpine level 3 instructor. If you ever want to have an information exchange...
I cheated on the crank bolt. I used a pull handle and a pipe cheater bar. With it in place I bumped the starter. I know it is not the recomended way but it works for me on a lot of different engines. Never damaged anything. I enjoyed your vid and your information is great.
Thanks! I could issue torque specs. I've done this for 24 years now and can tell when things are going to come loose or give out. I use a torque wrench on head bolts and on spindle nuts because you just don't mess around with them being too tight etc. This other stuff is in that range that's just another day at the office.
THANK YOU!, this video helped me with a parts issue I was having with a supplier. It's the most detailed and clearer youtube video I've seen of someone changing a timing belt on a 2.5lt Subaru yet :)
Brian, a huge thank you from a forester owner in nz, with your videos i successfully stripped and rebuilt ej251, six star head gasket, new rings and bearings, complete valve job....drives awesome now....you're a rock star! Cheers, Andy
Thanks for that, it made the job a lot easier. Didn't have to remove fans. Biggest pain was pulley bolt, had to make locking tool for this. Very easy job despite that! Respect!
On the 2.2 you're OK. They don't suffer the interference issues the 2.5 does. Also the pistons are centered in stroke at both "marks on" and out 180. This means you can rotate your cams to mark. And then rotate your crank to mark.
I'm about to perform this on my 07 2.5i... because hopefully what I'm hearing under the hood is a bad tensioner and not valve-train damage.... FINGERS CROSSED! As with a few other jobs I've undertaken since finding your channel, you've given me the confidence to be my own subaru-tech... kind of.
Thank you for the posting of this ... wife has a 08 and it is getting time to do the belt. I came from Dodge and have not seen many subaru products so this video is greatly appreciated.
Great video Brian, i got a 1999 S forester from my brother 2 months ago and now i was able to get the 2002 S Forester, but am kind of worry about changing the timing belt. But really this video was so helpful. Thanks.
Just finished this job on a 2009 Forester, used a GATES kit from NAPA. Worked well and runs great! Dodged bullet on this as the owner put the job off and the old belt 'lost' about 20 teeth! Engine was at idle but no valve damage!!
Hello briansmobile1, I'm Brazilian, and you're a great help to us. And here we have to make many adaptations. But your tips are of great value to us. thank you so much.
Taking the tensioner off makes it easier to get that bottom sprocket on without forcing the belt. Get the sprocket on, wrap the belt around it, then put tensioner on. A hell of a lot easier.
I don't have a vid of taking the belt off. I can can video that on the 18th though. You just take off the small smooth idler on the passenger bottom side. Then take off the geared idler pulley by the water pump. Then the belt will come off for you. The pin goes in while the tensioner is in the vice after you SLOWLY compress it.
Thanks for another great video. Another way to get the balancer bolt out is to remove the plastic plug that covers the window at the back of the motor where you can get to the bolts that hold flex plate to the torque converter. With that cover off you can put a large screwdriver in to hold the flex plate & the balancer pulley comes right out.
Tip from an Old Aircraft Mechanic, Great video, A bit more controlled way to remove and reinstall the vibration damper is to remove the radiator and then use two 3/8 drive 4 inch extensions. Put these extensions in two of the four holes in the damper with about 2 inches sticking out and 2 inches in the damper. use a long breaker bar or a piece of pipe between the two extensions. A helper can hold this leaver or you can let it rest up against the inside fender or frame. You can rotate the engine slightly to accommodate this without having an issue as the timing belt will be in place when you loosen and tighten the damper. Now use a breaker bar and loosen the center bolt. When you reinstall the damper use a torque wrench and torque it to specs.
Tensioner may look good but best to change it anyway.....I did head gaskets at 127k and when I started the car , belt jumped, bent 2 valves, had to do the job again. THANKS A MILLION FOR THE VIDEOS, A GREAT HELP!!!!
I know Toyota and Honda just switched back over to chains, but I'm pretty sure there are enough differences that it's no longer a fair comparison. Timing chains also have a heavier metal- oil retaining cover which adds weight too.
Crankshaft Pulley, Loosening or Tightening of , Crankshaft 22mm Bolt. I found if I position two Dowel pins, or Grade 8 Bolts in the holes, of the pulley face. than place a bar of steel between those bolts, I can loosen or tighten the 22mm bolt accurately. No pipe wrench slipping, or missing hammering, just brute force, and torque wrenching. Your video was great. Thanks. Enjoy
Lots of fun. All day in the cold checking things and turning the key I now notice when my crankshaft mark is in line both camshaft markings are out of sink 80 deg to the left. Somehow the toothcount is off even with the marks alligned it rotates out of sink. Most likely bent it dead by this time. Going to have to do some digging on this one. Thanks.
Could be. Except for the fun ones like Corvette's, Mustangs, Comaro's, and Vipers.... those are pretty fun, but sadly Sti's spank them in real world driving scenarios.
Nearly all the bikes have a timing chain, (except ducati) All of their engines run 2 or 3 times faster than a car engine and they rev quicker your bike have one. A chain last longer is lubed and has less air drag than a timing belt. the only thing a chain is less good is at handling linear speeds. The timing belt is only here to force peoples to make them changed in the dealerships. and the water pump is connected to it ,no problem ! change it each time ,justy for safety !
I just found your videos (I clicked like) but did I miss you taking the belt off (or part 1)? I been looking thru your other videos, and I didn't see it. I have a 2008 Legacy 2.5i (non-turbo'd) Keep up the great work.
Awesome video Brian, I love Subarus too and love any Subaru videos you can put out. It's interesting too that Subaru has always used timing belts on the 4 cylinders (not the 6 cylinders), but the new 2.0 and 2.5 engines have switched to timing chains. Seems like people want the maintenance free chain over a belt which makes sense but the advantages of a belt also make sense. Trade-offs are involved just like anything else.
Just did my timing belt last weekend thanks buddy really appreciate your pointers I have a dual overhead cam but still help a lot! You're awesome keep up the good work God bless take care
Brian I have to admit I really liked the last part of the video where you describe the merits of a timing belt over a timing chain. I have seen horse power tv episodes where they work on these massive big block racing engines and much to my surprise they use belts instead of chains. I never understood why until I watched your video just now. I have always avoided timing belt vehicles because I am unsure how to change them. I do nearly all of my own repair work from the brakes, to the water pumps, oil changes, power steering pumps even fuel pumps in the gas tank. But I have never done a timing belt before. I don't like the idea of sending the work to be done out to a shop so I stick with what I know. Lately I have been thinking about buying a Volvo V50 wagon. Those come with a belt and so I have been plowing the internet trying to understand how to replace one properly. The belts look completely symmetrical to me so I never really understood why you had to align everything to top dead center. If you remove the belt and make sure the cam shaft sprocket and overhead cam sprockets don't move relative to each other can't you just slip the new belt right over the setup? I have seen some videos where they show markings on the belt themselves. I don't see why this is necessary unless the belts themselves are not completely symmetric. Also let's say you accidentally move the sprockets if you align the TDC markings can you just slip the belt over them in any orientation? Or does the belt have markings that also require they be aligned? Any thoughts? Thanks, Juan
Love all your videos. Did the thermostat in boiling water at a party everyone was amazed. I'll look into the fuel system. It just sputters when I turn the key. I hope the seafoam doesn't destroy injectors. Thank you for the quick response. Wish you had a shop I'd taker her in.
Howdy, Brian! I used your videos to do an engine replacement in my 2005 Outback at 220,000 miles and it was subsequently (and sadly) totaled in a hail storm. Despite the car's fate, thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. You're empowering people! Now I'm in a 2010 Outback 2.5i and it's overdue for replacement of the timing belt and water pump. I've done the work on an 05, but don't quite know what to expect with my 2010. What differences are you aware of that might make this more of a challenge? I appreciate your help!
2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i non-turbo wagon Hi Guys, I recently did my first timing belt job. I thought it went well as I started the car and the engine seemed to run fine. A couple of days later I noticed some issues with the engine and decided to get back under the timing belt cover and check things out. Timing belt itself looks fine. Crankshaft and camshaft markings all line up like they should when camshafts markings are straight up. The problem is in getting the crankshaft sprocket marking straight up. The engine is EXTREMELY resistant to being cranked over. This was not a big deal the first time around. In finishing the timing belt install I hand cranked the engine several times by hand to check the timing between the camshafts and crankshaft sprockets and everything looked good. I didn't have any difficulty doing this. I bench 250lbs x 5 and deadlift 225lbs for a workout and I am now having MUCH more difficulty getting the crankshaft sprocket straight up. The engine wants to spring back against my clockwise cranking of the engine. Why I Went Under the Timing Belt Cover Again As I have been using the car in the past few days I noticed that the engine sounds like it knocks when I start it up, but it starts easily. It also makes an extra clicking sort of sound when it idles. Sometimes as it idles, around 500rpm, the revs drops a bit and the i hear/feel a knocking going on. Could that be my ECM still relearning? For the most part the car is running smoother than normal when the ECM is relearning it's fuel mixture. I notice more vibration out of the engine than normal. I have seen that before, I believe it is usually tied to a misfire in at least one of my cylinders. I have a known internal oil leak. Lately that engine vibration hasn't been present. It popped up again just after the timing belt job. Other than that the car moves as fine as it did before the timing belt job and has been driving fine. I'm not entirely sure if the knocking issues are related to my timing belt work. My main concern right now is my inability to crank the engine over by hand. Please help, I had to call off of work on account of this. I can't make any money while my car is apart or in questionable condition. I am in an emergency situation. Thanks in Advance, -AJFresh
AJFresh As I sat here attempting research, somehow out of nowhere a question popped into my mind. "Did you put the car in gear?" ?!?! Ran outside to check - yes I did. Relieved the tension on the breaker bar I locked under the AC compressor then took the car out of gear. Engine turns over like butter LOL Now I can turn to the issue that brought me back to the timing belt in the first place -Why do I have increased engine vibration? -Why is there some kind of knock/sound/brief vibration on startup? -Why does idling periodically get rough? All that comes to mind is that my cylinder heads are out of sync. Maybe I should remove the timing belt, rotate either camshaft around once from having it's timing mark straight up where it is now, and reinstall the belt. Any input would be appreciated
+AJFresh I'm having a problem with my 2000 Subaru Outback I think it jumped time but my timing belt doesn't have any marks on it I just replaced it and I guess they must have wore off I was wondering if there's any way to time it without those marks
Not sure if someone already asked, but just whacking to tighten the crank/balancer pulley - ok not to torque it down to spec? I do this myself (just whack with a hammer or hand tighten until it feels right)... but curious what Brian and others think. The only bolts I usually ever use an actual torque wrench on are wheel lugs/bolts and engine internals (cylinder head, bearing covers,etc.)
There is another way to remove the harmonic balancer using the action of the engine turning over. 1) VERY IMPORTANT: remove the power from the ignition coil. 2) You can take a long breaker bar, resting on the frame next to the battery. 3) For a very brief moment, turn over the car. This will loosen the bolt. From there, the bolt comes right out. When you get everything done, don't forget to connect the power back to the ignition coil.
Very important to put back crank pulley bolt torched to spec as if too loose crank pulley will eventually loosen causing Woodruff key to shear off in skyway causing crank pulley to spin freely. Some mechanic did this on my 92 luckily just when tranny started to go. Instead of special crank pulley holding tool I just used 2 Sn ap On 1/4 inch short extentions for pins and a long flat bar between them to hold pulley stable while torquing to spec. The cheaper ones bent.
nice vid! i have a 09 legacy coming up on 90k miles and am gonna have to do the reg maintenance. do you have anything on this? also what do you think about the cabin air filters?
hey man. i love the vids! nice work. i have a 98 2.5L DOHC. I'm replacing all my front seals and need a way to get all four cam sprocket bolts loose (without turning the cams, of course). Do you know if an electric impact wrench will work for that? Won't it just break the bolt without turning the cam? I'm poised to attempt it but I just don't want to ruin anything internal. Any advice is welcome. Thanks!
I love watching your videos, very informative, and so down to earth with the repairs. You make repairs look so easy, and with minimal tools. I wish I could talk with you about a 2009 Subaru forest boxer engine I am working on now, it really has me in the dark.
It really doesn't matter. You could have the crank be on and the cams off 180 degrees. If you want to be efficient, take off the short side of the timing cover and line up a cam first.
Hey Brian great video I just did this to my subie but now if I try to accelerate hard my car chokes is this something to do with the tensioner failing I believe the belt could be tighter
Hey brian love your videos especially the helis. Quick question i have a 2000 solara v6 5sp on first start i have valve clatter for about 20 seconds should i be concerned? It has 175k no oil consuption and runs well once warmed up
Hey Brian! First I really appreciate your videos and humor! Both have helped me with my frustrating subaru repairs. My 17 yr old daughter recently bought an ‘04 SOHC Outback. We wanted to replace the timing belt and other components because the prior owner didn’t know when that had been done last. I had her watch your video and let her take charge of this repair. She had just taken off the condenser and alternator covers when she set her wrench on the alternator and body and was briefly electrocuted. Now the car won’t start and only the dash lights come on. Help!
Thanks for the interesting commentary on timing belts vs chains. Can you think of any engines where there is one version/application with a chain and another with a belt that may offer a clue about the real differences in losses?
11 years later and this just helped me out so much. You can't seem to find this level of explanation on youtube anymore and i appreciate the time you took to make this video. Thanks!
Just wanted to thank you for your Subaru videos. I am a 20-plus year vet of the trade and a shop owner. Customer brought her Subaru with head gasket failure, and having no experience with Subaru, I tried to beg off on the job. She insisted that I could do it and she didn't trust anyone else to do it. Needless to say, I was a bit intimidated. Found your videos and they really gave be a much needed boost of confidence. Reading the procedure in a manual is ok, but watching and hearing an expert is always better. Thank you again!
If you look down on the left side on the back of the block where the tourque converter meets the block there is a 1/4 inch hole that allows you to place a Philips head screwdriver or pin punch and then just push or pull on the 22mm wrwnch you will then lock the block and you can loosen or tighten the pulley bolt as needed
have to say out of all of the Subaru 2.5 timing belt videos this one was the best. no fluff just good information, ill keep a watch out for more of your videos.
Thanks for posting. Just watched this for the fourth or fifth time this morning. Its now 2:30 p.m. and after welding some round and square stock together to make a tool to hold the balancer and beating my breaker bar nearly flat, I'm putting the new kit on and looking forward to not being a nervous wreck every time I drive the severely neglected ol girl. 166k miles and the previous owner said he personally changed the belt twice only to pull the cover and see the factory one hanging by a thread. Dodged that one by a hair. Thanks again. Hope all is well.
I have a 2.5L engine and have never changed a timing belt before-myself. It's coming up this year. Thanks for posting this video. I'm going to use it as a reference for doing my first one.
Thanks Brian, I have an 01 Ram and an 01 Subaru, your videos have saved me a ton of headaches before I do anything I looks for your videos. Loyal fan, Michael
Thanks Mike!
Thanx Brian. I am a computer analyst and have never attempted to work on my car (saabaru 9-2x Aero) before, but your videos are very informative. I am now working on swapping out all my struts / springs with H&R springs and Koni Inserts, and watching your vids are very helpful. More Subaru videos!!
You are a Saint! There aren’t any shops near me that will work on Subaru, this saves me money and the headache of failing on my own😂
I just did my Legacy belts with the help of this video, and I can't thank you enough for your time and effort. I had never done a timing belt before, so I was scared! Thanks so much!
ive done it once already & im still so scared
Brian, I love your videos man. whenever I'm looking to work on my car I check your TH-cam page first because I know it'll contain all the information I need to accomplish the task at hand.
btw, I literally just found out you're a skier by watching this video. I'm a p.s.i.a alpine level 3 instructor. If you ever want to have an information exchange...
Got my kit on ebay for $83 tensioner and water pump and full bearing kit. Worked great
I cheated on the crank bolt. I used a pull handle and a pipe cheater bar. With it in place I bumped the starter. I know it is not the recomended way but it works for me on a lot of different engines. Never damaged anything. I enjoyed your vid and your information is great.
Another way to loosen or tighten the crank bolt is, if its a manual, put it it 5th gear, handbrake up, and get someone to step on the brake.
Thanks! I could issue torque specs. I've done this for 24 years now and can tell when things are going to come loose or give out. I use a torque wrench on head bolts and on spindle nuts because you just don't mess around with them being too tight etc. This other stuff is in that range that's just another day at the office.
Doing a an 03 Outback 2.5L (eng code B) tomorrow. You have really a really good tone, ease and simplicity to your instructions, thanks for posting :)
I know what you mean. I've heard that from other tech's I've worked with, but I have this old one that just won't die.
Thanks Brian. Took this video as a guide, and managed to change the timing belt on my Subaru, in under 2 hours, all by myself. Thx again!
You and me both! lol I've rebuilt them and they're still just kind of odd. It's a miracle they lubricate.
They are pretty light. That's one thing that makes them so good in snow/sand/mud.
THANK YOU!, this video helped me with a parts issue I was having with a supplier. It's the most detailed and clearer youtube video I've seen of someone changing a timing belt on a 2.5lt Subaru yet :)
Brian, a huge thank you from a forester owner in nz, with your videos i successfully stripped and rebuilt ej251, six star head gasket, new rings and bearings, complete valve job....drives awesome now....you're a rock star! Cheers, Andy
Thanks for that, it made the job a lot easier. Didn't have to remove fans. Biggest pain was pulley bolt, had to make locking tool for this. Very easy job despite that! Respect!
On the 2.2 you're OK. They don't suffer the interference issues the 2.5 does. Also the pistons are centered in stroke at both "marks on" and out 180. This means you can rotate your cams to mark. And then rotate your crank to mark.
I'm about to perform this on my 07 2.5i... because hopefully what I'm hearing under the hood is a bad tensioner and not valve-train damage.... FINGERS CROSSED! As with a few other jobs I've undertaken since finding your channel, you've given me the confidence to be my own subaru-tech... kind of.
Thanks, Brian,
Thank you for the posting of this ... wife has a 08 and it is getting time to do the belt. I came from Dodge and have not seen many subaru products so this video is greatly appreciated.
Great video Brian, i got a 1999 S forester from my brother 2 months ago and now i was able to get the 2002 S Forester, but am kind of worry about changing the timing belt. But really this video was so helpful. Thanks.
Just finished this job on a 2009 Forester, used a GATES kit from NAPA. Worked well and runs great! Dodged bullet on this as the owner put the job off and the old belt 'lost' about 20 teeth! Engine was at idle but no valve damage!!
Congrats to all involved. Way to go!
If it's scored then yes. Be sure to get it machined first and then you'll know what oversized rod bearings to buy.
Hello briansmobile1, I'm Brazilian, and you're a great help
to us. And here we have to make many adaptations.
But your tips are of great value to us. thank you so much.
Taking the tensioner off makes it easier to get that bottom sprocket on without forcing the belt. Get the sprocket on, wrap the belt around it, then put tensioner on. A hell of a lot easier.
I don't have a vid of taking the belt off. I can can video that on the 18th though. You just take off the small smooth idler on the passenger bottom side. Then take off the geared idler pulley by the water pump. Then the belt will come off for you. The pin goes in while the tensioner is in the vice after you SLOWLY compress it.
Killer video man! Only wish it showed disassembly (from the beginning).
Looking forward to more videos!
You're welcome Warren!
Thanks for another great video. Another way to get the balancer bolt out is to remove the plastic plug that covers the window at the back of the motor where you can get to the bolts that hold flex plate to the torque converter. With that cover off you can put a large screwdriver in to hold the flex plate & the balancer pulley comes right out.
Yes. They come with a valve cover gasket set.
Tip from an Old Aircraft Mechanic,
Great video, A bit more controlled way to remove and reinstall the vibration damper is to remove the radiator and then use two 3/8 drive 4 inch extensions. Put these extensions in two of the four holes in the damper with about 2 inches sticking out and 2 inches in the damper. use a long breaker bar or a piece of pipe between the two extensions. A helper can hold this leaver or you can let it rest up against the inside fender or frame. You can rotate the engine slightly to accommodate this without having an issue as the timing belt will be in place when you loosen and tighten the damper.
Now use a breaker bar and loosen the center bolt. When you reinstall the damper use a torque wrench and torque it to specs.
after watching a few of your video's, I like your guy/girl dynamic. I don't see really any women mechanics. I like that keep up the great work!
Tensioner may look good but best to change it anyway.....I did head gaskets at 127k and when I started the car , belt jumped, bent 2 valves, had to do the job again.
THANKS A MILLION FOR THE VIDEOS, A GREAT HELP!!!!
I know Toyota and Honda just switched back over to chains, but I'm pretty sure there are enough differences that it's no longer a fair comparison. Timing chains also have a heavier metal- oil retaining cover which adds weight too.
Helped a lot. Thanks heaps. Working on my EJ25 Headgasket replacement here in Australia.
You're supposed to use a special tool for that ( I have) but I don't always use it. Just make sure you have the crank mark lined up.
Love that Ron Paul poster! Keep up the quality content. Subscribed!
I drive a 2012 Forester with the fb25 engine and I believe it has a chain. Love the car
Crankshaft Pulley, Loosening or Tightening of , Crankshaft 22mm Bolt. I found if I position two Dowel pins, or Grade 8 Bolts in the holes, of the pulley face. than place a bar of steel between those bolts, I can loosen or tighten the 22mm bolt accurately. No pipe wrench slipping, or missing hammering, just brute force, and torque wrenching. Your video was great. Thanks. Enjoy
Thus is life. That's why the best thing a sales guy can ask are "what are your priorities?" "What is this to be used for?"
You're very kind. Thanks
Thanks for explaining where the piston is during this process. Helped me.
nice video thanks for sharing the technique of removing pulleys instead of stretching the belt
thanks man i did mine last week hottest day of the week out here but i did it thanks to your help. i appreciate you 👍
Wish I could like this twice. Its that good. Thanks for posting this video for the knowledge and the humor.
I like the power of the 2.5.
That's right.
Yes. They're pretty common in fact. Most of the Turbo one's and Outback's are DOHC.
hello thank you for your video done timing belt today on 07 outback there are very little of these outback here in Ireland
Hey, just got the Aising timing belt kit from amazon all made in Japan. Thanks for the video.
You're welcome!
You’re really good at explaining things. I hope you teach.
Lots of fun. All day in the cold checking things and turning the key I now notice when my crankshaft mark is in line both camshaft markings are out of sink 80 deg to the left. Somehow the toothcount is off even with the marks alligned it rotates out of sink. Most likely bent it dead by this time. Going to have to do some digging on this one. Thanks.
Could be. Except for the fun ones like Corvette's, Mustangs, Comaro's, and Vipers.... those are pretty fun, but sadly Sti's spank them in real world driving scenarios.
Nearly all the bikes have a timing chain, (except ducati)
All of their engines run 2 or 3 times faster than a car engine and they rev quicker
your bike have one.
A chain last longer is lubed and has less air drag than a timing belt.
the only thing a chain is less good is at handling linear speeds.
The timing belt is only here to force peoples to make them changed in the dealerships.
and the water pump is connected to it ,no problem ! change it each time ,justy for safety !
I just found your videos (I clicked like) but did I miss you taking the belt off (or part 1)?
I been looking thru your other videos, and I didn't see it. I have a 2008 Legacy 2.5i (non-turbo'd)
Keep up the great work.
Great tutorial with a little humor inserted.
Nicely done!
And, yes, you are still at the top of Google / TH-cam search.
Rightly so.
Thanks for that!
Awesome video Brian, I love Subarus too and love any Subaru videos you can put out. It's interesting too that Subaru has always used timing belts on the 4 cylinders (not the 6 cylinders), but the new 2.0 and 2.5 engines have switched to timing chains. Seems like people want the maintenance free chain over a belt which makes sense but the advantages of a belt also make sense. Trade-offs are involved just like anything else.
Thanks!
Just did my timing belt last weekend thanks buddy really appreciate your pointers I have a dual overhead cam but still help a lot! You're awesome keep up the good work God bless take care
YESSS.....your Ron Paul poster is on point!
Super helpful thank you. My timing jumped on freeway. I had to fix this on the interstate !:)
you sir, are legend
Thanks for always helping me with my Subaru Brian!
just did my timing belt today. thanks for the video. it helped out a lot.
Very well made DIY tutorial!! I've done many Tbelt jobs but never on a Subaru boxster motor.
Brian I have to admit I really liked the last part of the video where you describe the merits of a timing belt over a timing chain. I have seen horse power tv episodes where they work on these massive big block racing engines and much to my surprise they use belts instead of chains. I never understood why until I watched your video just now. I have always avoided timing belt vehicles because I am unsure how to change them. I do nearly all of my own repair work from the brakes, to the water pumps, oil changes, power steering pumps even fuel pumps in the gas tank. But I have never done a timing belt before. I don't like the idea of sending the work to be done out to a shop so I stick with what I know. Lately I have been thinking about buying a Volvo V50 wagon. Those come with a belt and so I have been plowing the internet trying to understand how to replace one properly. The belts look completely symmetrical to me so I never really understood why you had to align everything to top dead center. If you remove the belt and make sure the cam shaft sprocket and overhead cam sprockets don't move relative to each other can't you just slip the new belt right over the setup? I have seen some videos where they show markings on the belt themselves. I don't see why this is necessary unless the belts themselves are not completely symmetric. Also let's say you accidentally move the sprockets if you align the TDC markings can you just slip the belt over them in any orientation? Or does the belt have markings that also require they be aligned? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Juan
Thanks.
You're still the man!! Nice video and always full of extra information.
Love all your videos. Did the thermostat in boiling water at a party everyone was amazed. I'll look into the fuel system. It just sputters when I turn the key. I hope the seafoam doesn't destroy injectors. Thank you for the quick response. Wish you had a shop I'd taker her in.
I love the poster you have in the background and all of your videos are great. thank you for all you do. :)
Howdy, Brian! I used your videos to do an engine replacement in my 2005 Outback at 220,000 miles and it was subsequently (and sadly) totaled in a hail storm. Despite the car's fate, thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise. You're empowering people! Now I'm in a 2010 Outback 2.5i and it's overdue for replacement of the timing belt and water pump. I've done the work on an 05, but don't quite know what to expect with my 2010. What differences are you aware of that might make this more of a challenge? I appreciate your help!
I also would like to know
2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i non-turbo wagon
Hi Guys, I recently did my first timing belt job. I thought it went well as I started the car and the engine seemed to run fine. A couple of days later I noticed some issues with the engine and decided to get back under the timing belt cover and check things out. Timing belt itself looks fine. Crankshaft and camshaft markings all line up like they should when camshafts markings are straight up. The problem is in getting the crankshaft sprocket marking straight up. The engine is EXTREMELY resistant to being cranked over. This was not a big deal the first time around. In finishing the timing belt install I hand cranked the engine several times by hand to check the timing between the camshafts and crankshaft sprockets and everything looked good. I didn't have any difficulty doing this.
I bench 250lbs x 5 and deadlift 225lbs for a workout and I am now having MUCH more difficulty getting the crankshaft sprocket straight up. The engine wants to spring back against my clockwise cranking of the engine.
Why I Went Under the Timing Belt Cover Again
As I have been using the car in the past few days I noticed that the engine sounds like it knocks when I start it up, but it starts easily. It also makes an extra clicking sort of sound when it idles. Sometimes as it idles, around 500rpm, the revs drops a bit and the i hear/feel a knocking going on. Could that be my ECM still relearning? For the most part the car is running smoother than normal when the ECM is relearning it's fuel mixture.
I notice more vibration out of the engine than normal. I have seen that before, I believe it is usually tied to a misfire in at least one of my cylinders. I have a known internal oil leak. Lately that engine vibration hasn't been present. It popped up again just after the timing belt job. Other than that the car moves as fine as it did before the timing belt job and has been driving fine.
I'm not entirely sure if the knocking issues are related to my timing belt work. My main concern right now is my inability to crank the engine over by hand.
Please help, I had to call off of work on account of this. I can't make any money while my car is apart or in questionable condition. I am in an emergency situation. Thanks in Advance, -AJFresh
AJFresh As I sat here attempting research, somehow out of nowhere a question popped into my mind. "Did you put the car in gear?" ?!?! Ran outside to check - yes I did. Relieved the tension on the breaker bar I locked under the AC compressor then took the car out of gear. Engine turns over like butter LOL
Now I can turn to the issue that brought me back to the timing belt in the first place
-Why do I have increased engine vibration?
-Why is there some kind of knock/sound/brief vibration on startup?
-Why does idling periodically get rough?
All that comes to mind is that my cylinder heads are out of sync. Maybe I should remove the timing belt, rotate either camshaft around once from having it's timing mark straight up where it is now, and reinstall the belt. Any input would be appreciated
+AJFresh I'm having a problem with my 2000 Subaru Outback I think it jumped time but my timing belt doesn't have any marks on it I just replaced it and I guess they must have wore off I was wondering if there's any way to time it without those marks
Not sure if someone already asked, but just whacking to tighten the crank/balancer pulley - ok not to torque it down to spec? I do this myself (just whack with a hammer or hand tighten until it feels right)... but curious what Brian and others think. The only bolts I usually ever use an actual torque wrench on are wheel lugs/bolts and engine internals (cylinder head, bearing covers,etc.)
briansmobile1 Thank you for all these Subaru videos! I have an Impreza, and these vids are such a huge help! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
There is another way to remove the harmonic balancer using the action of the engine turning over. 1) VERY IMPORTANT: remove the power from the ignition coil. 2) You can take a long breaker bar, resting on the frame next to the battery. 3) For a very brief moment, turn over the car. This will loosen the bolt. From there, the bolt comes right out. When you get everything done, don't forget to connect the power back to the ignition coil.
What about putting it back on? So do I just need an air impact or is there another trick I could use?
Very important to put back crank pulley bolt torched to spec as if too loose crank pulley will eventually loosen causing Woodruff key to shear off in skyway causing crank pulley to spin freely. Some mechanic did this on my 92 luckily just when tranny started to go. Instead of special crank pulley holding tool I just used 2 Sn ap On 1/4 inch short extentions for pins and a long flat bar between them to hold pulley stable while torquing to spec. The cheaper ones bent.
nice vid! i have a 09 legacy coming up on 90k miles and am gonna have to do the reg maintenance. do you have anything on this? also what do you think about the cabin air filters?
Yes, that's totally normal.
Hey Brian we lined everything up car still won’t crank. Do we have to put the car completely back together before cranking
hey man. i love the vids! nice work. i have a 98 2.5L DOHC. I'm replacing all my front seals and need a way to get all four cam sprocket bolts loose (without turning the cams, of course). Do you know if an electric impact wrench will work for that? Won't it just break the bolt without turning the cam? I'm poised to attempt it but I just don't want to ruin anything internal. Any advice is welcome. Thanks!
Great video! Love the star wars wrench intro.
Thanks for making this video my guy! It's going to make tomorrow so much easier
I love watching your videos, very informative, and so down to earth with the repairs. You make repairs look so easy, and with minimal tools. I wish I could talk with you about a 2009 Subaru forest boxer engine I am working on now, it really has me in the dark.
It really doesn't matter. You could have the crank be on and the cams off 180 degrees. If you want to be efficient, take off the short side of the timing cover and line up a cam first.
I believe it's best TB demo video .
Hey Brian great video
I just did this to my subie but now if I try to accelerate hard my car chokes is this something to do with the tensioner failing I believe the belt could be tighter
Hey brian love your videos especially the helis. Quick question i have a 2000 solara v6 5sp on first start i have valve clatter for about 20 seconds should i be concerned? It has 175k no oil consuption and runs well once warmed up
Hey Brian! First I really appreciate your videos and humor! Both have helped me with my frustrating subaru repairs. My 17 yr old daughter recently bought an ‘04 SOHC Outback. We wanted to replace the timing belt and other components because the prior owner didn’t know when that had been done last. I had her watch your video and let her take charge of this repair. She had just taken off the condenser and alternator covers when she set her wrench on the alternator and body and was briefly electrocuted. Now the car won’t start and only the dash lights come on. Help!
Did you disconnect the battery?
thank you you just saved my life..the factory manual gets you far sometimes seeing is believing...:)
Great Vid.......Do you have a Video of removing the old belt? When did you put the pin in? :)
Thanks for the interesting commentary on timing belts vs chains. Can you think of any engines where there is one version/application with a chain and another with a belt that may offer a clue about the real differences in losses?
This video was very informative, thank you. I was looking for a video explaining how to remove a timing belt but happened here and learned a little.
Thanks and you're welcome!
Thank you!
On which engines? Drivers side? Near the EGR pipe?
I love your videos
do you have the same vid doing a EJ20 turbo?