How to Change Timing Belt and Water Pump on Subaru Legacy EJ251 Motor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Well winter is upon us Sundae Drivers which means the summer cars are away (for those of you in the salted northeast) and the winter beaters are out and about. Our buddy Matt (with the 2016 SS) recently picked up a 2000 Subaru Legacy to serve as his steed during the harsh winter months in NJ. This car was about 45K miles overdue for a timing belt replacement so we got right to it.
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In this video we show how to replace the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, pulleys, and sprockets in a 2000 Subaru Legacy with the 2.5L EJ251 Motor. This process should be identical for the following vehicles:
Impreza 2.5RS, 2.5TS, 2.5OBS 98-03 (US)
Forester 99-04 (US)
Legacy 99-01 (US, 4EAT)
Legacy 99-04 (US)
Outback 00-01 (US, 4EAT)
Outback 02-04 (US)
Baja 03-05 (US)
As always, check for your specific model regarding compatible parts and procedures.
Notes:
if you do not perform a full flush of the coolant system, follow the shorter coolant interval - even with the Long Life coolant.
For the 2000 Subaru Legacy and some other vehicles, be sure to use the proper Subaru Coolant System Conditioner (link below). Be sure to follow proper usage based upon your owner's manual.
Crank Shaft Bolt Torque Specs:
1st Pass 30 ft-lbs
2nd Pass 133 ft-lbs
NOTE: the final torque of 133 ft-lbs much be reached between 65 - 75 degrees of the bolt after the first pass. If it is not reached in this window, the bolt must be replaced.
#EJ251 #SubaruLegacy #LegacyDIY
⚠️Try anything shown in this video at your own risk ⚠️
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🔩Parts (Affiliate Links)
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AISIN TKF-010 Engine Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump:
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AISIN THF-003 Thermostat:
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Genuine Subaru 21200AA072 Thermostat:
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Genuine Subaru SOA868V9210 Long Life Coolant:
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Subaru SOA635071 OEM Coolant System Conditioner
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🔧 Tools (Affiliate Links)
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Company23 Subaru Crank Pulley Tool 1 v2
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After watching this video, I’m now dreading doing mine even more 😬
It's a little bit of work but not too bad
That looked like a cold and wet (coolant drops) job haha. Seems like you had fun doing it. A good partner always helps. Thanks for the vid. Also thanks for going back to mention the circular pattern on the water pump.
You bet!
E
Overall a very good instructional video. I am surprised, however, that you did not change the radiator hoses! They looked original and they do have a definite lifetime.
Good point! We were doing this for a friend and he didn't want to so we installed what was asked but if it was my own car I would have done that for sure. It has since been sold so it is in the hands of the new owner.
2007 OB doing mine this weekend. good video brother
Hope it helps you out with it!
Did you get it done ? How was it?
@@mahed82 yes sir I did
wow seems complicated. Nicely done!!!
Also...great sound!
Thanks! It was a little complicated haha. Car hasn't blown up yet so I guess we did it right :P
I have the dual overhead cam 2.5L engine and I found that was even more difficult doing on your own
Great stuff bro! Very helpful for me! Good call on the cardboard too.
Glad it was helpful!
Yes this video was helpful, thank you sir.
Awesome!
Nicely done i just didnt see you drain the block of coolant?
Video was very helpful. Cheers 🍻
Nice one
Is it possible to install it backwards like my letters were facing me instead of the engine
Be very careful on the bottom sprocket. You can easily crossthread the hole at an angle
Always take your time for sure!
nicer tutorial as I need to do this same job..Thank you
Thanks for the great video. I noticed the built in nuts on the timing belt inspection cover on the driver's side broke out of the inner cover. How did you put that back together? The inner cover is under a $20 item, but what do I need to worry about if I take that pulley off? Once I pull out the bolt, I suppose I could mark it with a chisel or paint mark? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Nice job fellas
Thanks!
Damn your buddy could have washed down the engine at least once during winter
😂😂 true
Great, great job!! Thanks so much, seriously nice and professional!!
Glad it helped!
Excellent video..thanks
No problem! Hope it helps!
I have a serious question. If I install the new belt and pull the pin. I then rotate the crank pulley 1 full rotation. If the timing is off then what do I do to get evertthing in timing again???
Hope you make.a vid changing your sparkplugs on your Silverado?Hear its hard?
Just said to Pete yesterday I need to do that soon lol. At 93K miles so it will be happening.
lectures about quailty parts and uses a duralast thermostat. 😂 😊
I’m doing my timing belt job on my 2007 sti and the driver side cam shafts don’t line up but the left side is timed perfectly. The ride side is off and when I try to rotate them clockwise I eventually feel good resistance and feel like if I push hard or push it I might bend valves. Please help how can I fix the driver side cams so I can get them lined up and then I can finally belt on the new belt?
Well i goofed it all up. I lined up all the wrong marks. Feeling really good about not pulling the tensioner grenade pin yet.
Oh boy lol. At least ya saw this before starting it 😂
@@TheSundaeDrive oh im incredibly paranoid on jobs like this! I spent every penny i had on the cheapest baja in the country at the time and rolled over 200k on the drive back from the guy who ripped me off on it. Before she hit 200,010 miles, ujoint blew along with the whole $400 driveshaft. Ate the few weeks later and installed it to find out the center diff went too. Not having alot of money and conveniently finding a 5spd in the local pull your own junkyard (in the deep south where Subaru is still a secret), i pulled it and the reat diff to ensure aligning ratios for only $200 total. Slap it all in, a week later, another internal transmission failure. This weird vehicular hermaphrodite, as my wife calls it, was legitimately the vehicle that fit all my wants and needs and this really broke my heart. Still, i dont give up, so the wife and I took a couple day trips to other sister yards to the one we returned the dud to and had some credit, despite them being spread across the south. Finally, an outback donated a solid 5spd in Nashville Nashville TN and its still alive. This said, i bought a part or two a week and now, EVERYTHING but the engine, transmission, and interior, has been replaced so it only makes sense that the waterpump would take a dive now, right?
@@TheSundaeDrive its 2020 and we still cant comment with an image! ....come to think of it, that might be best.... anyway, across the back glass in huge capital letters read my life's story as well as the only 4 things that car is made of: Blood. Sweat. Tears. Love.
And thank you for your video. I am very grateful for your knowledge and dont want to forget to express this important notion!
@@dehydratedwatr that's how it goes man. Sucks loving cars sometimes. I just bought the xj and the same week, the windshield cracked and started leaking, transfer case seal went, all the the electronics were working when I bought it now only the windows work sometimes, headlights stop working, etc 😂🙃
@@dehydratedwatr kind of annoying for sure that images can't be shared here. Give us a follow on insta and I'll check it out 👍👍
Thought this was Julian Edelman lol
I know this is an old video, but I'm getting ready to tackle the timing belt on my 2003 Outback. Not because of miles (it only has 30k since the belt was done), but more because the PO used the Gates kit on it - I've heard horror stories about the tensioners failing (also the belt is 8 years old, so there's that). This is nearly 90s SOHC Honda Civic easy (probably easier since Subaru doesn't torque the crank pulley to 400+ ft/lbs).
Recommendations on the front crank seal at the same time? Mine is leaking a bit. And I fully plan to use the Aisin kit, since it's OEM. Is it possible to use an impact wrench to loosen that crank pulley bolt without the special tool, or am I gonna need to get the tool?
You don't need the special tool. Use the AC belt wrapped around the pulley and hooked to a bolt by the AC mount. 2000 Forester popped off pretty easy even with 240k on it doing it that way.
Where are link for kit or parts yu used
thankyou for the 29 foot pounds on the tensioner i sheared the threads and other videos say 20, was that just a number off the top of your head?
All the torque specs were pulled from a manual for the vehicle. Guess even the manuals get it wrong sometimes :( never fun
HELP!😵 I have a 2004 Subaru Forester 2.5l sohc with automatic non-turbo minimum of 154000 miles with unknown conditions because I bought it used and I am trying to learn proper diagnosing old school and of course of the computer shit how to get past the blocker ecu scheiser. Screwdriver test on intake sounds like rod bearings but the sounds still gives clues as if it could be idler pulley or tensioner sounds because if that was rods I don't think that it could run that good.
I don't see a kit for my model on aisin or Mr. Subaru 1387 or anyone else's site.
Plus, what is the best MLS head gasket to use and any upgrade bolts to do the head gaskets but which give me greater tolerance being a noob\ newbie doing self-resurfacing of heads and block.
Terrible mileaage 6mpg with only evaporative, egr codes but no rich codes. HF Scanner showed functioning rear O2 but I disconnected the front O2 sensor and it was reading 2.156 constant and then while looking at the map and maf sensor values I noticed the disconnected O2 sensor read a nominal voltage change from 2.156v to 2.151v which has to indicate some short in the harness from the computer and\ or problems in the computer. The green diagnostic connector indicated a solenoid in the back by the canister was operating and I did the clean and greasing of the gas cap seal. But today disconnecting the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose made zero difference in the operation of the injectors but increased the idle with the vacuum leak. The air inlet temperature sensor didconnected made zero difference in the running but disconnecting the harness to the idle air control valve made the car run rufff but clamping off the 3/8" hose lowered the idle and the hose clearly indicates suction on it as strong or stronger than the fuel canister empting line which is only about 1/4" diameter. I haven't been able to find out what this other line and valve does that it has all that suction on it so I will have to look on the browser. I previously disconnected the EGR because it heats up like crazy and it has to be between the hardness and\ or the computer because testing the contacts on the solenoid alone steps the motor without overheating but with the harness connected there is power crossing from upper pin 2 to lower pins and power from pin 5 to upper pins which doesn't do this when I do the testing manually nor was it indicated on the one guys forum. That is two problems pointing back towards the computer and not at the components except for the vacuum operated fuel regulator. Please make suggestions how to lean this sucker out including map voltage cheats.
My alternator will not drop with those 2 bolts.
Will this kit fits the 2005 subaru forester XS? I went on Amazon and it keeps sending me to the Gates made in China kit.
what's up brother, might be late. I researched for the 2004-05 fozzies and we use the Aisin tkf-001 model. I have the 04 X model. don't worry about yours being manual or auto. Doing mine this weekend at 140k miles.
@@oOwillayOo thanks for the information much appreciated.
@@sleeks9939 Np man!
You didn't bleed the tensioner, did you?
Good one 🤣
The turbine of the pump it's rare. Not like OEM Subaru water pump. Why?
DUDE! I AM IN NJ TOO! :D 2002.. What part of NJ are you in (town?) I am in Central NJ
*I have same car as you, just it is a 2002. I do or don't have a 4EAT trans ?? 2002 Outback BASE (4S3BH)
Ayyyy, South Jersey! Closer to Atlantic City area
@@TheSundaeDrive Hmmm. I wonder if maybe like a weekend in some months if you feel like doing that to my EJ25. I've tried to wrench on some of my own cars.. It just never turns out well LOL! I'm like just north of Toms River
@@TheSundaeDrive ^ For a price, of course. If you wanna see my Subaru from a fellow Subaru-er, lol I'm jcorbi82@aol.com if you wanted to see pics and stuff lol. NJians unite!!
Appreciate that! We are pretty swamped with work (our bread and butter is upgrading 2010 and newer BMWs actually lol) Something like this would be an hourly rate and we've only done it once (don't normally do much maintenance work on subies but more as a favor to a friend) and a shop that does this all the time could probably do it for less than we could because of the time involved. You can shoot me an email to cliff@tsd-motorsports.com
North jersey here also with an 02’ but mineis an impreza ts wagon naturally aspirated i believe it has the exact same engine 2.5L
Can see you used the wrong adaptor for the burper.😁😁
What about the camshaft and crankshaft seals?
Sorry for the delay, wanted to investigate this a lil bit. You do need to remove everything we did too replace those seals so it is a good time to do it BUT, and that's a big but, there is a lot more work left to replace those seals and you likely have to pull the motor to replace the rear seal. Keep in mind the car we did this on is just a winter beater so a lil oil leak is ok 😉
@@TheSundaeDrive I'm at 86,000 miles in an 03 Baja, i have a front crankshaft seal leaking. Shop recommended timing belt kit at the same time to fix that leak. should I also do the water pump since i'm doing the timing belt? Keep in mind this is all just to fix the leaky front crank seal. I do plan on doing these myself, hence watching the vids. Thank you
I would always recommend doing as much preventative maintenance as possible. You would hate to fix one thing, only to have something else go bad that could have been easily fixed at the same time
@@TheSundaeDrive How would I do those seals? I haven't found a good tutorial. Would like to do it myself.
Does the motor need to be on top dead center when timing it
Yeah, you're gonna want that middle gear to be on TDC and both of the camshafts will need. They all have a marker but notice that you can have the mark on the center gear on what seems to be TDC, but if the cams aren't both in the right spot, it's not actually TDC because the cams spin once while the centre gear spins twice
Tenkiu may fren alayke yu vidiu. Yo asi escribo el ingles
Really? A crucial part, putting new timing belt on and installing pulleys in oder and you do not show? But taking tensioner bracket and alternator belt (drive belts) you show!!