Replacing the head stud bolts is a very debated topic but according to Subaru's service information, it does not specify new head bolts as part of a head gasket repair job. But it does state that the final tightening of these bolts must not exceed the specified number of degrees for each step. Doing so could cause one of these bolts to reach its yield point, possibly permanently stretching and damaging it. There is more information here: mdhmotors.com/what-are-torque-to-yield-head-bolts/ Really you should always inspect your bolts and holes and use your discretion. If there's any doubt, replace the bolts.
Depending on the manufacturer and application, torquing to yield could mean just dipping into elastic deformation, or going straight into plastic deformation territory, on one-time-use applications. I believe Subaru has a length specification for the head bolts; if stretched beyond that distance, it's been stretched to the point of plastic deformation and absolutely must be replaced. Personally, I always replace any TTY bolts that are this much work to get to, just to be on the safe side, unless I have a length spec from the manufacturer and can verify they're still short enough with my micrometer. In any case, I would be very hesitant to reuse head bolts more than two or maybe three times on an engine that's prone to blowing head gaskets.
Speed Academy Could you help me out with something. My 2010 outback doesn't show the typical signs of a bad head gasket, no white steam out of the exhaust, no bubbles in coolant. It acts like a bad thermostat, won't circulate the coolant, cold lower rad hose, hot upper hose, blow coolant everywhere once it heats up, I replaced the thermostat, the water pump and the radiator, no luck. I'm trying not to except that the head gaskets are bad, in your expert opinion on subys, are my head gaskets bad? Thanks guy's
Clear, comprehensive vids like this make me want to go to the junkyard, pull some abandoned motor, and wrench it back to good running condition. Guys like Nam make it look easy.
This guy would make an excellent instructor because of his level of clarity of instruction. And he's got a mellow tone which makes this easy to follow without watching.
Got a '98 Forester w/ 2.5 DOHC. Had a classic failure of the "fire ring" of head gasket ( i.e.- Exhaust gases into cooling system). Had a shop do it cause I didn't want to mess with it. Failed 4500 mi. later. They claimed it was a defective gasket. They did it again for a big discount in price. Failed AGAIN after 5200 mi. Finally I said enough, I'll do it myself. Ordered the Gates belt / pump kit, a new Subaru thermostat, Subaru "3 bond" sealant, after market Viton "O" rings, Viton cam & crank seals, associated gaskets and ARP head bolts. Instead of Subaru, Felpro, etc. head gaskets, I used "6 star" brand as they ARE the solution. I'm lucky enough to live in an area that has some great machine shops and I had the block and heads trued and then put on a lapping machine to bring the surfaces to 25 - 30 RA. This is a finer finish than what "6 star" recommends (50 RA). (RA is roughness average measured in microns). A standard Greenblat grinder at automotive machine shops can only go to 118 RA. I reassembled all per factory manual specs. That was back in 2007. I've put on 125,000+ since then with no issues. "6 Star" all the way, it's what all the rally engine builders use for their 500Hp+ engines. I'd NEVER use anything else on a Subie now!
probably over $500, maybe more. Although it beats having Subaru redoing it over and over again. He shouldn't have to repay for a faulty gasket in my opinion. I would have taken Subaru to court on that one. The reason is because your expectation of failure of gasket should be in and around 50,000 miles or so. Maybe more depending upon the vehicle and how you use it.
sorry just see this post, in new zealand to replace head gaskets + labor and parts, 3 to 5K...so we just brought another engine for 2k and plonked it in. it was the EJ20 non turb.
I talked to a couple Subaru techs and they were doing so many that they were literally just using a 'wizzy wheel' roloc bristle head to clean the head and block deck surfaces -- very unprofessional preparation.
Thank you for a fantastic video! We followed this video step by step and sent the heads off to be machined. The engine is reassembled, and it runs like a champ. Your video saved us a fortune, and we learned so much in this process. You are an excellent teacher. It was our first engine pull and repair ever! What took you 22 minutes, took us about 2 days of step by step, ultra careful work. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
This was very clear and to the point. And all done in 20 mins. There are other videos showing the same thing but stretched out over 2 hours. Thanks so much.
I don't understand most of the words you just used, but this makes me feel like I know what my mechanic will be doing now when I take it in to get this job done. Bravo!!! Gained a subscriber.
The best video of engine repair. I spent a lot of money on my Subaru just to figure out that head gasket is damaged, since oil is getting empty every 1000km and coolant stations on oil filling hose. I am going to request a mechanic to do this. Thank you for the video.
Interesting to watch. My wife and I are having this same work being done on our Outback. I do maintenance on our car but this is something I am happy to leave this to someone else.
Hands down one of the best head gasket rebuild vids for a Subaru. Now I know why most shop mechanic are behind a desk in their 50s? The repetitive overhand motion cranking on those head bolts all day everyday will totally jack your shoulders.
Well my wife’s car had a belt tensioner failure which made my timing belt snap and bend all my valves, the block and pistons were not damaged at all just the heads and I paid 1500 bucks to get new motor and get it installed. Wtf, time to go back and get me old motor and put new heads on it. This dude pretty much did the work for you. One of the best videos I have seen on TH-cam that shows you step by step. Now I have more confidence knowing that this guy is here to show us how simple it is.
You'll have valve guide problems with all that interference the timing belt snap caused. You may need to start with new from the valves up. That's why I hate interference engines. Your engine is trashed.
The more I learn from these videos, the more I find it hard to imagine why anyone would continue to buy and/or lease new cars over a lifetime. With the same money, you could build your own shop with a hydraulic lift, and keep a bunch of really nice used cars running.
That's what my brother-in-law does. Big con to this is he's always fixing cars! Some of the new parts are so bad he has to do the same repair over and over again! Parts are crap now! New AC compressors, replacing the radiator over and over again. Lots of crankshaft position sensors. At least the readers help him figure out what goes wrong sometimes. Lots of towing the cars home for him where it breaks. He's always busy!
Today I just officially finished this exact project ! It turned out great with new head gaskets , spark plugs , hoses , pcv , and timing , motor mounts , it runs alot better !! Thanks to this video, and others !
Great video. Probably the best of any kind I have seen. The techs at my dealership told me that if you replace the head gasket with turbo gaskets they will never fail again. My 10' outback has 160K miles on it and so far no issues. (knock wood). Thanks for the great video.
Watching this 3 years after doing it myself. 99 Legacy GT. Pulled engine for ease of access and was replacing clutch. Had machine shop polish crank and hone cylinders. Heads surfaced and valves were good. New valve seals, new rings and bearings. I used FelPro gaskets. New head bolts. No issues thus far. Timing belt installation is more finicky on a dual overhead cam engine. Get both sprockets on one head aligned and the slightest movement when doing the other head results in valve spring tension spinning previous sprocket(s) out of sync.
Definitely I need him redo my 2008 Subaru exactly this is my problem now with 110000 miles on the engine . Worth every dollars I spend with this special service expert.
Did anyone notice that the sequence that he tightened the bolts didn't match the sequence in the service manual he showed? Either way great video and I am halfway through putting my motor back together and couldn't have done it without Nam and this video. Thanks a million!
Nam, you are very knowledgeable and explain at a great pace. Please don’t fall into the typical “uneducated TH-cam” explanation style of saying “thee” rather than the when appropriate. You’re NOT the typical DIY guide, don’t short yourself.
347K views in one year. This is a very well made video. I like watching these mechanical videos for information. But I'm blown away by the amount of views. Don't think I would ever want to own a Subaru
I sold my subaru XT when it reached 170K Kms. my mechanic said sell it before head gasket failed. It will cost me AUD $7K. the job not only replace head gasket but piston, ring, etc.
People complain about Subaru engines but in all honesty they're super easy to work on. I have a 99 legacy 2.5gt with the ej25d and it's got over 300k on it and still runs amazing even after being in flood water up to the door mirrors 4 years ago.
Bet you Nam worked at Subaru dealership at one time in his career. This job is not for fair of heart, quite a few tricks involved. Would have been interesting to hear it run before and after, maybe no difference but still nice to hear a job completed and running.
You are the master of your trade. It's fun to watch. I would never buy a vehicle with quarter mile long timing belt, or any vehicle with aluminum engine block, or CVT transmission.
Thanks for this. I used the six star head gasket set with the 3 layers of stainless steel metal gasketing. I'm hoping that makes the head gasket leak problem go away. I did NOT replace the head bolts since they are not a torque to yield bolt. If I wanted to I could have put studs in instead but I don't have the turbo engine. My brother-in-law ground the valves and valve seats for me so zero leak down. This video did not show any valve adjustment which my brother-in-law had to do since he had ground the valves and valve seats. I was lucky that the old gaskets had not let any water or oil mix. There was no "steam" cleaning of any of the cylinders either. It's back in the car and sounding wonderful. I didn't want to go back to the same old head gasket. My brother-in-law said that many race cars use the six star gaskets so I'm trying one. I hope I'm not wrong. I hope for no head gasket leak in a very long time.
Amazing video. Nam makes me think I could do this myself...even though there is no way on this Earth I would ever try to do this myself. I own a 2012 Subaru Impreza that just had recall work done for the valve springs. I think they had to do nearly everything described in this video as part of the work. Gives me a real appreciation for the work, and I REALLY hope they did it as well as Nam did.
It can't get any more professional than this. Excellent video. Personally I was in a time crunch and on a budget so during a weekend I did my head gaskets (2009 Impreza 2.5 SOHC) with engine in the car and only cleaned surfaces with the 3m roloc so far it's been 2 years little over 20k miles no oil leaks or compression leaking into coolant system like it was no crazy oil or coolant consumption. I used the Fel-pro MLS and replaced most cooling components. If you have the time and money definitely follow this video instead.
235 thousand km on my 2010 with NA Ej25. How I've gotten away with no head gasket issues yet is beyond me, hopefully the luck keeps up lol. Great easily comprehensive video.
If you always drive a cold engine as if it is a new engine when starting off, it heats up more evenly ....Also drive slower , cooling down the engine before switching the engine off.....That is why you do not have this trouble. Good for You !!
It's also a good idea to use head gaskets for a turbo engine on the naturally aspirated engine of the same type. The turbo head gaskets are more durable and your engine probably won't blow a head gasket ever again. Make sure all the coolant holes line up and you should be good to go. I learned that from a Subaru technician. Their shop specializes in Subaru's only. He told me about a couple other tricks to make the bad head gasket problems on these engines better,but I can't exactly remember those ones and I don't want to spread bad info. If you're going to do this job yourself I'd do some research.
Top notch technician and video. Looks complicated at first glance but like everything its actually simple. One step at a time following the correct method.
This is why I drive since new a 2009 Mazda 3 s hatchback 2.3 with 5 speed auto and 195,000 miles. I have been dumping money lately for suspension parts at all four corners and a trans module. A trans module is not a rebuild. At the end of the last 5000 mile oil change interval I got back from a 2000 mile Marathon trip in 50 hours. Car ran like a champ. Did not burn or leak a drop of synthetic oil.
It's understood to be best practice up here in the north where everyone has a Subaru and we have Subaru experts to replace those head gaskets with a multi-layered metal version, not factory OEM or part store "Felpro" gaskets. The multi-layered metal gaskets last longer.
My hands became itchy from watching this great video. Ive done of of boxer engines before and it wasn't that hard. Now I have to look for a Subaru on Craigslist to satisfy my itch.
VEry good video and no awful music so very professional video . I have done many of these head gasket replacements over 26 years . I usually remove the intake manifold . When I put the belt on I use two small clamps to keep timing belt in place . I usually put the belt on and then the tensioner followed by the lower puley with the fence on it . Excellent video and straight forward with clear instructions good job Bill
Must I say...Nam, thank you so much for so much info & patience you give during the walk through on this job! There isn't many people like you. & I'm not that type to comment/review. But you & your camera guy deserve a double thumbs up!!👍🏽👍🏽I'll be keeping an eye on your guy's videos & supporting you guy's from now on. Keep up that hard work, & as always...✌🏽
I need to do this on my 97 outback soon. I’m either pulling the engine and rebuilding it or buying a used engine and rebuilding that/swapping. Thanks!!
In my opinion this is the Best video online showing the EJ25 engine breakdown. I’ve never done this work myself but I will attempt a timing belt replacement soon. Beginners Question: if it is essential to send the heads out to a machine shop for planing why isn’t it essential to do the same for the mating surface: the engine block itself? Why only plane one-half of the parts?
I have purchased a 05 Subaru Forester EJ 25 that has only 72 k miles and the head gasket leaks. They ought to have a recall on cars under 100k miles. I’m going to write a complaint NHTSA and encourage others too. GREAT VIDEO !!
Rob Rich Well, they probably do but they will add “OR 10 years” so you’re screwed anyways. Same thing with GMC and their useless “recalls” that aren’t even called that in some instances. I’ve got three older vehicles with low miles and recalls that will do me no good.
Yup, 2011 FB25 on a Forester blows too, 130k mi. Newer design was supposed to be less prone. But with oil leaking from the timing change cover, valve cover, cam carrier seals, and god knows where else, it overheated when I forgot to check oil for a few weeks. Found oil in coolant, MPG decreased, blew radiator, and I'm about to remove the engine.
Very awesome step by step tutorial greatly appreciate the time and effort you invested to put this video together and share it with the interested audience. Well done job man, once again big thank you
Got 2 B Dirt I’ve never owned one but I’ve helped a friend remove a motor and it wasn’t that bad. If your mechanically inclined you can handle this in a couple weekends and save lots of money
Some points to consider: 1. Go ahead and blow the other cam gear off, or don't be surprised when the head come back from the machine shop without it. 2. May want to drain that block before you tilt the engine and spill it all over yourself. 3. Clock the motor with pistons half way through their travel so as not to risk valves contacting pistons. 4. Remove the block dowels before cleaning the deck. 5. Check both the block decks and heads for warping and pitting. 6. Reusing stretch bolts? Spring for some new ones and double the longevity of the repair, ffs. 7. You're not showing how to hold the cam sprocket while torquing it. I like to use an old belt and some chain tool for plumbing; just don't use metal tools directly on the gear so as not to chip it. Same is true for the crank pulley. 8. No crank oil seal replacement while it's exposed?
Good points. 8. Definitely replace the crank seal *and* the cam seals. Doesn't make sense to do all that work, and not change the seals. 6. There's two schools of thought on re-using stretch bolts... the only argument against using new head bolts (only argument that is valid) is the added expense. If there was no cost differenc on the gear so as not to chip it. Same is true for the crank pulley. 8. No crank oil seal replacement while it's exposed?e, if new bolts were free, would any in the "re use" proponents still not use new ones?
Not double, it will never have to be done again. Unless you didnt use STi headgaskets and used another shitty graphite one, then it will fail no matter what you do as its cheap gaskets that Subaru used only on EJ25 SOHC.(incredibly dumb decisions seeing how it stained their reputation even if no other engine was affected)
In mo way mechanically inclined. However, I found myself drawn into the process as if I was there, believing that this is something I, too, could do with the professional, masterful instruction detailed in this process. Thoroughly enjoyed the watch. It clearly shows this is your calling. WTG!
Thanks so much. Your instruction was very clear & detailed. I'm contemplating doing this job on my 2002 Forester with leaking head gaskets. Thanks again!!!
Well? Did you guys do your own head gasket replacement? How did it go? I’m going to put another reply in the top of the list but I was curious, the only thing Nam Did not mention is the cost of the resurfacing at a machine shop. Do they also do valve work at the same time? Thanks
About to bring heads to the shop didnt trip one bolt started at 8am saturday its sunday tn at 8 i had heads off and cleaned ready for the shop i cant thank this man enough Ok done heads dropped time to do oil pan gasket and clean the block its the next day i started this with zero experience thats how well made this vid was
Awesome video and very informative. The heads looks great, but what about the block? I am under the impression that surface finish roughness is crucial to the sealing of MLS-type gaskets.
You make it look very doable, it almost looks simple. I just know that if I attempt it, there will be broken bolts or other impossible to solve issues that arrive that I'm ill equipped to deal with. edit: so many damn good tips in this video. perfect tutorial!
Yesss I've been using the 642 head gaskets for years on NA engines, you get a tiny bump in compression and NO LEAKS!! :D Cleaning up the block surface with a nice, new, flat oil stone is also a good idea.
Are the 642 MLS thinner than the single layer 633? Is that why the compression goes up? Is there any danger of the valves getting too close to the piston? What about on the 2006 Outback with the variable valve on the intake side? Thanks!
Are reusing head bolts part of the install procedure? I thought it was common knowledge to use new head bolts/studs on all engines, because the torquing procedure stretches the threads, and redoing the procedure weakens them. Head bolts/studs are the only fasteners that's soul job is to contain explosions.
Not any more, torque to yield is most definitely the standard for anything built in the last 10-15 years and they always recommend to use new bolts. I'm assuming these Subaru's are torque-to-yield based on the torquing procedure but they are certainly out of the ordinary saying you can reuse the bolts. Torque to yield permanently stretches the bolt by design so they really shouldn't be reused.
Make sure to change your oil a 2nd time pretty quickly after a head gasket change. You'll more than likely end up with high aluminum content in your oil. I sent it off to blackstone labs for testing that.
Do not use abrasive Scotchbrite on the deck. You basically sanded the deck. Good chance of it leaking again. Use non abrasive pads and hard nylon brush. And CRC Gasket remover is your friend.
This is why I'll never own a Subaru ever again. The dealer and Subaru denied anything was wrong with the gaskets lol. About $3k later and my POS is on the road again, these engines should all be recalled.
Most everyone knows its not if but when they will need replaced. i use Mobile 1 and I am at 160K miles so far with original gaskets. The turbos don't have this issue.
Thankfully this happened when mine was still under warranty. If I had to pay for it myself I would be be driving a Honda again. With that said, Subaru replaced my block and head gasket for free when it failed the oil consumption test no questions asked. I also have an Outback now also with a CVT I'm hoping it last as long as I own it.
@@chrisj197438 yea, $3000! Are you kidding me? I'm finding estimates all around town for $1500, ball park. Fuck the dealership. They're only good for warranties and recalls
I just picked up a 2001 Outback. I was afraid of having to do the head gasket, due to a clear oil leak issue on mine. Awesome vid, can’t wait to perform this repair on mine🖖🏽🍻
125,000 miles on my 2.0XE, no problems. 63,000 on my Prodrive XT, all in order. Cam belt change for both this year. The XE is even on its original clutch. I love both of them, but the Prodrive is mine till I die.
Got the first Subaru I have ever even ridden in today. It had been nearly perfectly maintained, but got in a crash and broke the grill and the radiator. Going to replace the belts and gaskets since I have to remove the radiator and stuff anyway. This is gonna be cool to learn
You are trollling. Watch an engine removal from ANY other motor and count how many vacuum lines(just one important item of note) ...remember that number, then watch a video about a Subaru engine removal. Then watch any other motor vid about the head gasket break down, then come back and watch this one...you'll then figure out that you just gave a VERY uninformed opinion.
My subaru friends were telling me this the other week as if it was some sort of benefit. "Oh just pull the motor for any maintenance it only takes an hour". What a fkn disaster you shouldnt have to remove an engine for basic maintenance. Poor engineering.
Thanks for posting this video. I'm just an ignorant driver, but I like learning. I have a 2013 Subaru Forester 2.5 DOHC. At 107k miles, I've just been told that my head gaskets are bad. I bought the car new and had no idea this was a known problem. 😡
UnafraidCookie caption says sti tho also my 2.5i has the sti gasket or wrx whatever I has (it’s an 2011) and now I take advantage of it because now it should be durable now so I floor it drive a bit hard since I ain’t afraid besides I got it done at my work so if it’s wrong it comes back to them and I got extended warranty so win win
I love this guy, I've have been trying to complete my reinstall for so long, thanks for the step by step instructions, omg gosh, im so greatful #doityourselfmommy!
For anyone reading this use the Felpro 26415 headgaskets please. I've been rebuilding subarus for 5 years these never fail for me. Torque specs 22 51 180 degree turn loosen, 180 degree turn loosen, 25 middle 11 sides, quarter turn tighten in cross formation. I get these "redone" headgasket jobs all the time and the customer has to pay me to do it right
Heh, not easily. Apparently you can jack up one side of the engine at a time to get enough access to clear the head bolts. But frankly, I don't think it's worth it. Maybe if you HAD to get it done & didn't have a garage or engine hoist.
Works fairly good. Just have to Pull the Head Bolts with the Head itself. If you dont put them Back in before you Put the Head on, you gonna have a Bad Time.
guys at my dealership do it day in day out like clockwork. takes a lot repetition and practice. i wouldnt recommend even trying it in the cad the first 10 times or so
I will be doing this job soon , this video really helped give me the confidence that if I pay attention and follow the correct procedures itl turn out great
Replacing the head stud bolts is a very debated topic but according to Subaru's service information, it does not specify new head bolts as part of a head gasket repair job. But it does state that the final tightening of these bolts must not exceed the specified number of degrees for each step. Doing so could cause one of these bolts to reach its yield point, possibly permanently stretching and damaging it.
There is more information here: mdhmotors.com/what-are-torque-to-yield-head-bolts/
Really you should always inspect your bolts and holes and use your discretion. If there's any doubt, replace the bolts.
Speed Academy n
Depending on the manufacturer and application, torquing to yield could mean just dipping into elastic deformation, or going straight into plastic deformation territory, on one-time-use applications. I believe Subaru has a length specification for the head bolts; if stretched beyond that distance, it's been stretched to the point of plastic deformation and absolutely must be replaced. Personally, I always replace any TTY bolts that are this much work to get to, just to be on the safe side, unless I have a length spec from the manufacturer and can verify they're still short enough with my micrometer. In any case, I would be very hesitant to reuse head bolts more than two or maybe three times on an engine that's prone to blowing head gaskets.
Speed Academy Could you help me out with something. My 2010 outback doesn't show the typical signs of a bad head gasket, no white steam out of the exhaust, no bubbles in coolant. It acts like a bad thermostat, won't circulate the coolant, cold lower rad hose, hot upper hose, blow coolant everywhere once it heats up, I replaced the thermostat, the water pump and the radiator, no luck. I'm trying not to except that the head gaskets are bad, in your expert opinion on subys, are my head gaskets bad? Thanks guy's
I never replace them. Never had a problem.
There not torqued to yield
Clear, comprehensive vids like this make me want to go to the junkyard, pull some abandoned motor, and wrench it back to good running condition. Guys like Nam make it look easy.
thats how u stay poor
@@eksine what would you do
That's exactly that though, he makes it LOOK easy :D
Makes me want to NEVER buy a Subaru.
Yeah i find it interesting..i wouldnt mind stripping / rebuilding an engine like this one day.
This guy would make an excellent instructor because of his level of clarity of instruction. And he's got a mellow tone which makes this easy to follow without watching.
Agree. He communicates in an unhurried, yet concise, detailed manner. I wish more instructors had this quality.
one of the best videos i’ve seen in a long time. logical, technical, no bullshit rambling on or stupid music. thank you
For real. The content across this entire channel is top-notch quality, and I'm immensely grateful for it.
Yea this is a great watch. Great job. Thanks.
Dang yes. Best I've seen no joke.
Yes, indeed. I need technical INFO...not "Techno-hippity-pop"....thanks...but no thanks!
Got a '98 Forester w/ 2.5 DOHC. Had a classic failure of the "fire ring" of head gasket ( i.e.- Exhaust gases into cooling system). Had a shop do it cause I didn't want to mess with it. Failed 4500 mi. later. They claimed it was a defective gasket. They did it again for a big discount in price. Failed AGAIN after 5200 mi. Finally I said enough, I'll do it myself.
Ordered the Gates belt / pump kit, a new Subaru thermostat, Subaru "3 bond" sealant, after market Viton "O" rings, Viton cam & crank seals, associated gaskets and ARP head bolts.
Instead of Subaru, Felpro, etc. head gaskets, I used "6 star" brand as they ARE the solution. I'm lucky enough to live in an area that has some great machine shops and I had the block and heads trued and then put on a lapping machine to bring the surfaces to 25 - 30 RA. This is a finer finish than what "6 star" recommends (50 RA). (RA is roughness average measured in microns). A standard Greenblat grinder at automotive machine shops can only go to 118 RA.
I reassembled all per factory manual specs. That was back in 2007. I've put on 125,000+ since then with no issues. "6 Star" all the way, it's what all the rally engine builders use for their 500Hp+ engines. I'd NEVER use anything else on a Subie now!
How much did that cost though?
probably over $500, maybe more. Although it beats having Subaru redoing it over and over again. He shouldn't have to repay for a faulty gasket in my opinion. I would have taken Subaru to court on that one. The reason is because your expectation of failure of gasket should be in and around 50,000 miles or so. Maybe more depending upon the vehicle and how you use it.
sorry just see this post, in new zealand to replace head gaskets + labor and parts, 3 to 5K...so we just brought another engine for 2k and plonked it in. it was the EJ20 non turb.
I talked to a couple Subaru techs and they were doing so many that they were literally just using a 'wizzy wheel' roloc bristle head to clean the head and block deck surfaces -- very unprofessional preparation.
I just don't understand why more people wouldnt buy Toyota.
That is the most convoluted head bolt torquing procedure I've ever seen. But Nam did an excellent job of explaining everything!
omg so much work just torquing the head down
That head bolt sequence is to spec, torque to yield is needed. If you don't, you might as well well just keep running the car till it dies lol.
what is torque to yield? and why is it important?
Click if the bolts were torque to yield I doubt he would have been reusing them.
He seems as if he has done a lot of these.
check? click?
Thank you for a fantastic video! We followed this video step by step and sent the heads off to be machined. The engine is reassembled, and it runs like a champ. Your video saved us a fortune, and we learned so much in this process. You are an excellent teacher. It was our first engine pull and repair ever! What took you 22 minutes, took us about 2 days of step by step, ultra careful work. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
From one mechanic to another this video was awesome. Very informative and taking the time to explain everything. 👊
How anyone could put a thumbs down on this is beyond me.....This guy has probably done hundreds of these..nice job
Seriously. He looks like he can do this in his sleep 😂
Because their hating morons thats why.
Because most people aren't able to pull their motor out and sit in on an engine stand to do the head gaskets
It's a thumbs down because he used the wrong headgasket for a undecked block
@@Austinlostinspace are you using an old type composite HG Or new style MLS HG ?
Nam is super knowledgeable when it comes to Subaru's engines. Knows his engines, torque specs, dude is complete beast.
is there like an award for the most caring and precise mechanic in the world cause it should go to him
This video saved me $2000. Ship wanted $2700 and I’m doing it myself for 730 in parts. Thanks guys!
This was very clear and to the point. And all done in 20 mins. There are other videos showing the same thing but stretched out over 2 hours. Thanks so much.
Wow...After watching 4 min of this vid has definitely changed my mind about owning a Subaru...Thumbs up to the guys who have to do this job.
I don't understand most of the words you just used, but this makes me feel like I know what my mechanic will be doing now when I take it in to get this job done. Bravo!!! Gained a subscriber.
Nam killed this tutorial. Love how well informed the boys at NV are and super impressed at how clearly he can present that info!
The best video of engine repair. I spent a lot of money on my Subaru just to figure out that head gasket is damaged, since oil is getting empty every 1000km and coolant stations on oil filling hose. I am going to request a mechanic to do this. Thank you for the video.
Interesting to watch. My wife and I are having this same work being done on our Outback. I do maintenance on our car but this is something I am happy to leave this to someone else.
Hands down one of the best head gasket rebuild vids for a Subaru. Now I know why most shop mechanic are behind a desk in their 50s? The repetitive overhand motion cranking on those head bolts all day everyday will totally jack your shoulders.
Super competent and professional. Thumbs up to Mr. Nam!
Well my wife’s car had a belt tensioner failure which made my timing belt snap and bend all my valves, the block and pistons were not damaged at all just the heads and I paid 1500 bucks to get new motor and get it installed. Wtf, time to go back and get me old motor and put new heads on it. This dude pretty much did the work for you. One of the best videos I have seen on TH-cam that shows you step by step. Now I have more confidence knowing that this guy is here to show us how simple it is.
You'll have valve guide problems with all that interference the timing belt snap caused. You may need to start with new from the valves up. That's why I hate interference engines. Your engine is trashed.
The more I learn from these videos, the more I find it hard to imagine why anyone would continue to buy and/or lease new cars over a lifetime. With the same money, you could build your own shop with a hydraulic lift, and keep a bunch of really nice used cars running.
That's what my brother-in-law does. Big con to this is he's always fixing cars! Some of the new parts are so bad he has to do the same repair over and over again! Parts are crap now! New AC compressors, replacing the radiator over and over again. Lots of crankshaft position sensors. At least the readers help him figure out what goes wrong sometimes. Lots of towing the cars home for him where it breaks. He's always busy!
Today I just officially finished this exact project ! It turned out great with new head gaskets , spark plugs , hoses , pcv , and timing , motor mounts , it runs alot better !! Thanks to this video, and others !
Can you share more details on how long it took and how much it cost? Also how much would it have cost for a shop to do the whole thing?
@@indikaGreat My husband paid a dealer $4000 to re-do his head gasket. I got parts for about $800. I used the six star head gaskets. Good luck.
Great video. Probably the best of any kind I have seen. The techs at my dealership told me that if you replace the head gasket with turbo gaskets they will never fail again. My 10' outback has 160K miles on it and so far no issues. (knock wood). Thanks for the great video.
Watching this 3 years after doing it myself. 99 Legacy GT. Pulled engine for ease of access and was replacing clutch. Had machine shop polish crank and hone cylinders. Heads surfaced and valves were good. New valve seals, new rings and bearings. I used FelPro gaskets. New head bolts. No issues thus far. Timing belt installation is more finicky on a dual overhead cam engine. Get both sprockets on one head aligned and the slightest movement when doing the other head results in valve spring tension spinning previous sprocket(s) out of sync.
wow, this has to be the best motor/car/ anything tutorial video I've seen on youtube. Great job guys!!
Definitely I need him redo my 2008 Subaru exactly this is my problem now with 110000 miles on the engine . Worth every dollars I spend with this special service expert.
Did anyone notice that the sequence that he tightened the bolts didn't match the sequence in the service manual he showed? Either way great video and I am halfway through putting my motor back together and couldn't have done it without Nam and this video. Thanks a million!
Nam, you are very knowledgeable and explain at a great pace. Please don’t fall into the typical “uneducated TH-cam” explanation style of saying “thee” rather than the when appropriate. You’re NOT the typical DIY guide, don’t short yourself.
I have done this a few times and this engine builder knows his stuff! Good work!
Did you also forget to have the machine shop resurface the block along with the heads and decide to use sandpaper and brake cleaner like a shade tree?
Best Teacher Ever , the tone and speed of his voice never change .
347K views in one year. This is a very well made video. I like watching these mechanical videos for information. But I'm blown away by the amount of views. Don't think I would ever want to own a Subaru
I sold my subaru XT when it reached 170K Kms. my mechanic said sell it before head gasket failed. It will cost me AUD $7K. the job not only replace head gasket but piston, ring, etc.
@@MichaelSmith-xk2bs :ď-x/F
People complain about Subaru engines but in all honesty they're super easy to work on. I have a 99 legacy 2.5gt with the ej25d and it's got over 300k on it and still runs amazing even after being in flood water up to the door mirrors 4 years ago.
Bet you Nam worked at Subaru dealership at one time in his career. This job is not for fair of heart, quite a few tricks involved. Would have been interesting to hear it run before and after, maybe no difference but still nice to hear a job completed and running.
You are the master of your trade. It's fun to watch.
I would never buy a vehicle with quarter mile long timing belt, or any vehicle with aluminum engine block, or CVT transmission.
Perfect tutorials don't exi..... wait what!!!!
This isn't perfect.
Its great when you own one of these cars and are just learning 🖖
Thanks for this. I used the six star head gasket set with the 3 layers of stainless steel metal gasketing. I'm hoping that makes the head gasket leak problem go away. I did NOT replace the head bolts since they are not a torque to yield bolt. If I wanted to I could have put studs in instead but I don't have the turbo engine. My brother-in-law ground the valves and valve seats for me so zero leak down. This video did not show any valve adjustment which my brother-in-law had to do since he had ground the valves and valve seats. I was lucky that the old gaskets had not let any water or oil mix. There was no "steam" cleaning of any of the cylinders either. It's back in the car and sounding wonderful. I didn't want to go back to the same old head gasket. My brother-in-law said that many race cars use the six star gaskets so I'm trying one. I hope I'm not wrong. I hope for no head gasket leak in a very long time.
Amazing video. Nam makes me think I could do this myself...even though there is no way on this Earth I would ever try to do this myself.
I own a 2012 Subaru Impreza that just had recall work done for the valve springs. I think they had to do nearly everything described in this video as part of the work. Gives me a real appreciation for the work, and I REALLY hope they did it as well as Nam did.
It can't get any more professional than this. Excellent video. Personally I was in a time crunch and on a budget so during a weekend I did my head gaskets (2009 Impreza 2.5 SOHC) with engine in the car and only cleaned surfaces with the 3m roloc so far it's been 2 years little over 20k miles no oil leaks or compression leaking into coolant system like it was no crazy oil or coolant consumption. I used the Fel-pro MLS and replaced most cooling components. If you have the time and money definitely follow this video instead.
Love this vid, shows the real use of TH-cam, well done guys
235 thousand km on my 2010 with NA Ej25. How I've gotten away with no head gasket issues yet is beyond me, hopefully the luck keeps up lol.
Great easily comprehensive video.
If you always drive a cold engine as if it is a new engine when starting off, it heats up more evenly ....Also drive slower , cooling down the engine before switching the engine off.....That is why you do not have this trouble. Good for You !!
It's also a good idea to use head gaskets for a turbo engine on the naturally aspirated engine of the same type. The turbo head gaskets are more durable and your engine probably won't blow a head gasket ever again. Make sure all the coolant holes line up and you should be good to go. I learned that from a Subaru technician. Their shop specializes in Subaru's only. He told me about a couple other tricks to make the bad head gasket problems on these engines better,but I can't exactly remember those ones and I don't want to spread bad info. If you're going to do this job yourself I'd do some research.
Top notch technician and video. Looks complicated at first glance but like everything its actually simple. One step at a time following the correct method.
This is why I drive since new a 2009 Mazda 3 s hatchback 2.3 with 5 speed auto and 195,000 miles. I have been dumping money lately for suspension parts at all four corners and a trans module. A trans module is not a rebuild. At the end of the last 5000 mile oil change interval I got back from a 2000 mile Marathon trip in 50 hours. Car ran like a champ. Did not burn or leak a drop of synthetic oil.
It's understood to be best practice up here in the north where everyone has a Subaru and we have Subaru experts to replace those head gaskets with a multi-layered metal version, not factory OEM or part store "Felpro" gaskets. The multi-layered metal gaskets last longer.
🤔 felpro makes the best MLS gasket for these cars.
This is so daunting. I need to do this and I am dreading it.
My hands became itchy from watching this great video. Ive done of of boxer engines before and it wasn't that hard. Now I have to look for a Subaru on Craigslist to satisfy my itch.
VEry good video and no awful music so very professional video . I have done many of these head gasket replacements over 26 years . I usually remove the intake manifold . When I put the belt on I use two small clamps to keep timing belt in place . I usually put the belt on and then the tensioner followed by the lower puley with the fence on it . Excellent video and straight forward with clear instructions good job Bill
Must I say...Nam, thank you so much for so much info & patience you give during the walk through on this job! There isn't many people like you. & I'm not that type to comment/review. But you & your camera guy deserve a double thumbs up!!👍🏽👍🏽I'll be keeping an eye on your guy's videos & supporting you guy's from now on. Keep up that hard work, & as always...✌🏽
I own a civic...I have no idea why I watched this whole video but damn this guy makes a really good tutorial.
Nam knows his Subaru engines! Now you should do a video with the engine in the car.
I need to do this on my 97 outback soon. I’m either pulling the engine and rebuilding it or buying a used engine and rebuilding that/swapping. Thanks!!
Still waiting on that engine removal video
🤣🤣
Step one. Unplug everything. Step two, unbolt everything. Step three, yank the engine.
A1 auto has a really good one
Even the oil change one is missing. ;)
I can do one
In my opinion this is the Best video online showing the EJ25 engine breakdown. I’ve never done this work myself but I will attempt a timing belt replacement soon.
Beginners Question: if it is essential to send the heads out to a machine shop for planing why isn’t it essential to do the same for the mating surface: the engine block itself? Why only plane one-half of the parts?
Best Engine Tutorial I've ever seen, Well done!
I have purchased a 05 Subaru Forester EJ 25 that has only 72 k miles and the head gasket leaks. They ought to have a recall on cars under 100k miles. I’m going to write a complaint NHTSA and encourage others too. GREAT VIDEO !!
Rob Rich Well, they probably do but they will add “OR 10 years” so you’re screwed anyways. Same thing with GMC and their useless “recalls” that aren’t even called that in some instances. I’ve got three older vehicles with low miles and recalls that will do me no good.
Probably the best rebuild instructional I've seen.
We're STI manifold gaskets used?
Yes the STI gaskets were used I myself would have used an MLC copper gasket set.
Yup, 2011 FB25 on a Forester blows too, 130k mi. Newer design was supposed to be less prone. But with oil leaking from the timing change cover, valve cover, cam carrier seals, and god knows where else, it overheated when I forgot to check oil for a few weeks. Found oil in coolant, MPG decreased, blew radiator, and I'm about to remove the engine.
Very awesome step by step tutorial greatly appreciate the time and effort you invested to put this video together and share it with the interested audience. Well done job man, once again big thank you
Wow I was about to take my Forester to a shop to get the seals redone but this looks like it’ll save me $2000. Thanks for a very thorough walkthrough
Andrew Gregg $2000?!?!?!?!
No way in hell am I bringing mine to a shop if its that much. My Forester was $800. It only costs me $250 for most of the gaskets. Just alot of labor
Ben Gomes yeah quoted me at $2500 for the seals and timing belt. I thought that was a little steep
How come you guys didn't scotch Brite the pistons? Figured while the engine was apart you could clean up the carbon build up.
The care and attention to detail of this guy make me want him to work on my Subaru. Wish he was local to me! Awesome video team NV AUTO
Why am I here. I don’t own a Subaru.
Think twice if you ever think of owning... I dread when I have to deal with this..or pay the labor ..
Got 2 B Dirt
I’ve never owned one but I’ve helped a friend remove a motor and it wasn’t that bad. If your mechanically inclined you can handle this in a couple weekends and save lots of money
Toyota same engine😅
How long it last 😅
You could
Give this man a raise, he did a superb job on this Subaru
Some points to consider:
1. Go ahead and blow the other cam gear off, or don't be surprised when the head come back from the machine shop without it.
2. May want to drain that block before you tilt the engine and spill it all over yourself.
3. Clock the motor with pistons half way through their travel so as not to risk valves contacting pistons.
4. Remove the block dowels before cleaning the deck.
5. Check both the block decks and heads for warping and pitting.
6. Reusing stretch bolts? Spring for some new ones and double the longevity of the repair, ffs.
7. You're not showing how to hold the cam sprocket while torquing it. I like to use an old belt and some chain tool for plumbing; just don't use metal tools directly on the gear so as not to chip it. Same is true for the crank pulley.
8. No crank oil seal replacement while it's exposed?
Good points.
8. Definitely replace the crank seal *and* the cam seals. Doesn't make sense to do all that work, and not change the seals.
6. There's two schools of thought on re-using stretch bolts... the only argument against using new head bolts (only argument that is valid) is the added expense. If there was no cost differenc on the gear so as not to chip it. Same is true for the crank pulley.
8. No crank oil seal replacement while it's exposed?e, if new bolts were free, would any in the "re use" proponents still not use new ones?
9. Plus do valve clearance checks/adjustments while the rocker covers are off.
HAHA FFS! Always replace the head bolts. Better safe than sorry.
Not double, it will never have to be done again. Unless you didnt use STi headgaskets and used another shitty graphite one, then it will fail no matter what you do as its cheap gaskets that Subaru used only on EJ25 SOHC.(incredibly dumb decisions seeing how it stained their reputation even if no other engine was affected)
In mo way mechanically inclined. However, I found myself drawn into the process as if I was there, believing that this is something I, too, could do with the professional, masterful instruction detailed in this process. Thoroughly enjoyed the watch. It clearly shows this is your calling. WTG!
Thanks so much. Your instruction was very clear & detailed. I'm contemplating doing this job on my 2002 Forester with leaking head gaskets. Thanks again!!!
Me to let me know how it went for you
Well? Did you guys do your own head gasket replacement? How did it go? I’m going to put another reply in the top of the list but I was curious, the only thing Nam Did not mention is the cost of the resurfacing at a machine shop. Do they also do valve work at the same time? Thanks
About to bring heads to the shop didnt trip one bolt started at 8am saturday its sunday tn at 8 i had heads off and cleaned ready for the shop i cant thank this man enough
Ok done heads dropped time to do oil pan gasket and clean the block its the next day i started this with zero experience thats how well made this vid was
Okay its 1230am and im done with the entire engine alternator as well going back in first thing tm or today damn it im HYPED
Awesome video and very informative.
The heads looks great, but what about the block? I am under the impression that surface finish roughness is crucial to the sealing of MLS-type gaskets.
You make it look very doable, it almost looks simple. I just know that if I attempt it, there will be broken bolts or other impossible to solve issues that arrive that I'm ill equipped to deal with. edit: so many damn good tips in this video. perfect tutorial!
10:05 LOL, that was NOT cleaned with a scotchbrite pad, unless they stuck one to an air tool.
You can get scotchbrite rolloc attachments...
I was about to comment this too lmfao
I was thinking the same thing.
it was definitely buzzed with a scotchbrite pad on an airtool, stuff doing that by hand!
Yeah looks like wire brush to me
Yesss I've been using the 642 head gaskets for years on NA engines, you get a tiny bump in compression and NO LEAKS!! :D Cleaning up the block surface with a nice, new, flat oil stone is also a good idea.
Are the 642 MLS thinner than the single layer 633? Is that why the compression goes up? Is there any danger of the valves getting too close to the piston? What about on the 2006 Outback with the variable valve on the intake side? Thanks!
@@Allen-bm6tz Yeah they are thinner. 0.56mm vs what....0.6 or so? I can't remember, no idea about the avls.
Are reusing head bolts part of the install procedure?
I thought it was common knowledge to use new head bolts/studs on all engines, because the torquing procedure stretches the threads, and redoing the procedure weakens them. Head bolts/studs are the only fasteners that's soul job is to contain explosions.
depends on the motor.. most head bolts are reusable..
Subaru says you CAN reuse them. I replaced them on my Engine.
Not any more, torque to yield is most definitely the standard for anything built in the last 10-15 years and they always recommend to use new bolts. I'm assuming these Subaru's are torque-to-yield based on the torquing procedure but they are certainly out of the ordinary saying you can reuse the bolts. Torque to yield permanently stretches the bolt by design so they really shouldn't be reused.
I suppose that depends on how long he's guaranteeing the work for.
Make sure to change your oil a 2nd time pretty quickly after a head gasket change. You'll more than likely end up with high aluminum content in your oil. I sent it off to blackstone labs for testing that.
Do not use abrasive Scotchbrite on the deck. You basically sanded the deck. Good chance of it leaking again. Use non abrasive pads and hard nylon brush. And CRC Gasket remover is your friend.
Well done. Hats off to Nam he makes it look like a simple job. About to get mine done...AGAIN. Last HGs only lasted 60,000kms.
This is why I'll never own a Subaru ever again. The dealer and Subaru denied anything was wrong with the gaskets lol. About $3k later and my POS is on the road again, these engines should all be recalled.
Most everyone knows its not if but when they will need replaced. i use Mobile 1 and I am at 160K miles so far with original gaskets. The turbos don't have this issue.
The engines are fine, if you get rid of the crappy gaskets.
Thankfully this happened when mine was still under warranty. If I had to pay for it myself I would be be driving a Honda again. With that said, Subaru replaced my block and head gasket for free when it failed the oil consumption test no questions asked. I also have an Outback now also with a CVT I'm hoping it last as long as I own it.
Robert NES816
You never take a car to the dealership for service!!!
@@chrisj197438 yea, $3000! Are you kidding me? I'm finding estimates all around town for $1500, ball park. Fuck the dealership. They're only good for warranties and recalls
No wonder this service costs more than the blue book value of a 2005 forester. Great work and great explanation
You know, as fun as this looks, I think I'll just pay my mechanic's trip to disney...
dbzsuperfan711 I’m currently doing it, you gotta have the passion for it 💯
I just picked up a 2001 Outback. I was afraid of having to do the head gasket, due to a clear oil leak issue on mine. Awesome vid, can’t wait to perform this repair on mine🖖🏽🍻
Thank You a million times over!
You are heroes.
125,000 miles on my 2.0XE, no problems. 63,000 on my Prodrive XT, all in order. Cam belt change for both this year. The XE is even on its original clutch. I love both of them, but the Prodrive is mine till I die.
18:26 Did the left cam sprocket get damaged from the machine shop? It wasn't cracked on the top right corner before.
Mine got cracked at the machine shop the same way and I replaced it cause I didn't want to risk chewing the belt
Definitely did 3:12
@@lipreader411 Very Good eye!
Turbo/STI head gaskets. Im so glad you told that tip i have been doing that for years its the permanent solution.
And yet my turbo forester is showing signs of a tiny oil leak on the head gasket. Or so some schmo doing an inspection says.
Yay to subaru content!!!!
Ok th-cam.com/video/-jDrkEEK99E/w-d-xo.html
Got the first Subaru I have ever even ridden in today. It had been nearly perfectly maintained, but got in a crash and broke the grill and the radiator. Going to replace the belts and gaskets since I have to remove the radiator and stuff anyway. This is gonna be cool to learn
This video makes me never want to own a Subaru engine.
You are trollling. Watch an engine removal from ANY other motor and count how many vacuum lines(just one important item of note) ...remember that number, then watch a video about a Subaru engine removal. Then watch any other motor vid about the head gasket break down, then come back and watch this one...you'll then figure out that you just gave a VERY uninformed opinion.
@@heuster lol vacuum lines? Umm, most engines don't require you to pull the whole thing for a head gasket. a matter of hours.Vacuum lines.....
@@corwininadsm ...I will never own one of these for a project car.
My subaru friends were telling me this the other week as if it was some sort of benefit. "Oh just pull the motor for any maintenance it only takes an hour". What a fkn disaster you shouldnt have to remove an engine for basic maintenance. Poor engineering.
@@mcfoolskully
Seems "basic maintenance" is relative.
Thanks for posting this video. I'm just an ignorant driver, but I like learning. I have a 2013 Subaru Forester 2.5 DOHC. At 107k miles, I've just been told that my head gaskets are bad. I bought the car new and had no idea this was a known problem. 😡
Did you say "STI head gaskets" at 11:07? I'm having trouble understanding you right there.
1 year late but he said SK
UnafraidCookie caption says sti tho also my 2.5i has the sti gasket or wrx whatever I has (it’s an 2011) and now I take advantage of it because now it should be durable now so I floor it drive a bit hard since I ain’t afraid besides I got it done at my work so if it’s wrong it comes back to them and I got extended warranty so win win
Puggernaut TrillTraks use part number shown
Fox MacLeod use part number shown
Please do more vlog like this👍 more power and Godbless.🙏
I love this guy, I've have been trying to complete my reinstall for so long, thanks for the step by step instructions, omg gosh, im so greatful #doityourselfmommy!
Nice Nam. I put over 150,000km on my STi swap and still running great since you built it.
Explained very well👍
That 'thunk' sound when Nam pops the newly machined head on the block is so satisfying.
So copper spray instead of anti-seize? Interesting..... My #1 reason for TH-cam, to learn of all the ways to "skin a cat"!
anti-seize is copper, just in paste form rather than spray form.
It's probably a copper anti-seize spray
It doesn't bleed
copper spray IS anti seize dude. lol Just not in paste form.
Well sorry guys, to me copper spray is like the shit you spray your head gaskets with
For anyone reading this use the Felpro 26415 headgaskets please. I've been rebuilding subarus for 5 years these never fail for me. Torque specs 22 51 180 degree turn loosen, 180 degree turn loosen, 25 middle 11 sides, quarter turn tighten in cross formation. I get these "redone" headgasket jobs all the time and the customer has to pay me to do it right
How the hell do people do this without removing the motor
Saw off the fenders?
Heh, not easily. Apparently you can jack up one side of the engine at a time to get enough access to clear the head bolts. But frankly, I don't think it's worth it. Maybe if you HAD to get it done & didn't have a garage or engine hoist.
Works fairly good. Just have to Pull the Head Bolts with the Head itself. If you dont put them Back in before you Put the Head on, you gonna have a Bad Time.
guys at my dealership do it day in day out like clockwork. takes a lot repetition and practice. i wouldnt recommend even trying it in the cad the first 10 times or so
Way easier to just pull the engine. Then you can see everything and clean it all up better too.
the best subaru mechanic
Made it look easy good job 👍😀
I will be doing this job soon , this video really helped give me the confidence that if I pay attention and follow the correct procedures itl turn out great