How to install a metal roof-over.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video I go over some of the basics of how to install a metal roof. Technically what we’re doing here is considered a Roof-over. There will possibly be more to the roof you are wanting to install than the one I’m showing today, this is just the basics. In the future we plan on make detailed videos on how to trim out various different roof types, And trims.
You’ll have to find out what code is for your area. And/or your customer’s or personal preference if you can do a roof-over or not. In our state we normally go over old shingles with a metal roof system such as shown in the video, unless the customer desires a tear-off. we will have to make a separate video showing how to install standing seam roof-over.
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I am impressed buddy.
TH-cam don't have many people that do things right
Thank you brother very helpful now when I speak to a contractor I know what I'm talking about and the ridge cap bends on the end are an awesome idea thanks again
One of the best videos for me as I will be attempting to DIY this. It's just for the backyard shed, but I'm also a stickler for appearance. Being on a fixed income now, I can't just call up a contractor for quotes anymore. The way you showed the detailed finish on the caps shows some real attention to detail! Nice work!
As only a fellow Michigander can do! Great job.
That ridge cap tip is exactly what I needed from this video. Really gana help me out
Good deal!
We do that with our residential rake trim as well. Only we don’t t bend the outside part around anymore
, So that when gutters get installed they can just butt it up to the inside of the trim. I think I have a short video demonstrating how we do that.
You do nice work. I'm a high rib screw fan. 2 1/2 inch screws.
I've had flat screwed leaks 5 years after completion. Sun draws screws up enough for the rubber to leak. High rib has never failed us. Didn't have a call back even after hurricane mike.
Interesting,
We haven’t seen good success with. That method here in the north.
We haven’t had any call backs from our screw leaking either.
But we’ve seen plenty of screws backed out on old roofs that are only installed over plywood or OSB.
High rib is actually the correct method for installing roofs but we all have gotten lazy and go low now.
@@jl456 they say you get more up-lift resistance screwing on the flat.
@@jl456 maybe in the early days when it was all nailed. And different styles rib patterns.
But now manufacturers say you can screw in the flat.
Also proper roof maintenance would go a long way. Like tightening your screws every few years, and replacing them every 8-10 years.
@@plankroofing I have a roof like the one shown here. I WAS very happy with it, but the screws (on the flats) keep backing out and need to be screwed back in every other year or so. After a dozen years the holes in the wood (2x4 purlins) start to strip out and you need to upgrade to larger gauge screws. I'm thinking seriously about tearing the whole thing off and going standing seam roof instead. It's a small house so it wouldn't be too expensive. Wish I'd gone standing seam in the first place. Great video!
you need to make more videos, you make it sound so easy!
hopefully this winter I will!
That's a BEAUTIFUL roof!
Clean work very nice
Great video ! Best video I've watched on roofing yet . Keep them coming on how to close the end on trim pieces.
Thankyou.
We plan on putting out a lot more How-to’s
I hope you found it helpful.
Great job and explanations, basic and to the point, ive done plenty of roofing but not metal, thanks
I do steel roofing and this is the proper way to do it i go 2ft on my boards and generally I recommend tear off because of summer heat but your ok if you don't just with the new technology synthetic paper is to keep moisture from getting on underneath metal since they only primer it, Great job though!
You talkin bout a steel roof membrane, housewrap,? Over 1x4's?
Can you leave the ribs open across the bottom/top for ventilation?
How high do you set gutters with steel roof w/ ice rippers? Above or below roof plane?
I do like a nice calm presentation
We did synthetic paper over 1 layer of shingles 10 years ago. No problems.
This gives me hope of taking my time putting metal on my old shingle roof. I can just take my time putting the metal roof on without worry of getting rain inside the house. Saves me from stripping the old roof. LOL>
If you have more than one layer of shingles stripping it would be recommended.
@@plankroofing what do you mean 1 lawyer? i mean shingles overlap each other so its always2 layers??? and i heard it make the roof to heavy specialy if you are in region where there is snow???
@@malibuss66 I don't think there are more than one layer of shingles. Never heard of a roofer putting new shingles on top of old shingles on the roof.
@@williamfp3 i meant the overlap of the shingle
Thank you, really useful video and great installation. Good to see such pride and skill level in your work
Great work and video.
Thank you very much!
Clean and neat looking job young man
I was taught to put the nails or screws in the ridges. The idea is that the ridges peak see's less water than the flat spot therefore better leak protection.
Yes that’s a fine idea. But the first stiff breeze that comes along your roof is gone because you don’t have near the shear strength that you get from screwing in the flat. And if you screw into solid wood, (NOT Plywood or OSB) you have a good solid grip and just keep the screws checked for backing out. And replace them every 8-10 years. A little maintenance and doing it right the first time goes a long ways!!
@@plankroofing I never had a piece of tin to come off nor did my teacher who has been doing it for almost 60yrs.
I could see what you said happening if one was to leave the screw/nail loose for whatever reason or didn't use a long enough screw/nail to bite the wood good.
I've also heard of replacing the screws/nails every 8-10yrs. My grandmother house was roofed back around in the 60's. Same nails and zero leaks. Rubber even still looks/feels decent!
I do have question though. Why is everyone on this band wagon of putting a water proof layer under a tin roof?
I can see the reason why when nailed to plywood due to condensation and poor ventilation. But when nailed to strips of wood like the old barns and houses, why is it still needed?
Those old barns and houses has done just fine for years and years without it and there many of which that still stands without that layer under the tin and no leaks.
@@jamesstoy8967 I’d guess it’s. Ore for the condensation that can happen under the metal. I can see how it doesn’t leak on the ribs, but I don’t like the idea of it.
I’ve seen roofs that leak and that just don’t work as well doing it this way,
But I know people do it successfully.
But you don’t get the shear strength though
That’s one of the main things I don’t like.
You can hardly tighten your screws without smashing the ribs. Which I don’t like. If you check your screws every few years and replace every 8-10 years it’ll be just as good if not better.
But that may just be my opinion.
@@plankroofing Nothing wrong with an opinion. Glad you actually talking with me, lol!
Now on like 5V tin, I can see where there's not enough hold down strength in the ridges alone. The flat spots needs to be nailed or screwed too.
I do like to ask, are you using 100ga tin? (Sarcasm, lol). 26ga is thin as I go and never have a ridge bend/crush.
That's for debating with me!
That’s against manufacturers guidelines and doesn’t get enough compression to seal the gasket reliably
Looks fantastic. Metal roofing is rarely straight forward in my experience. Which isn’t a whole lot.
Nice job guys, nice detail on the ends of the ridge cap and rake trim.
No not a nice job.
Pretty sure they are supposed to use the sealer strip for the rake trim too. Which means installing it first before the roof metal isn't a good idea
.
Aren’t those screws torqued down too much? The metal is indented and the washer must be too compressed.
We strive to get The right amount of torque. It could look that way due to the 1x4’s.
Plus condensation under the metal. No protection
This is terrible.
@@Martys-4x4, be helpful. Explain details or share your video without insults.
Thanks
@@lindalinkous4975This is a very common method to install a metal roof over existing shingles. My guess is you have never installed a metal roof, or any roof.
Great Video !! I found out in Florida that now the insurance company will say that this roof is too old after 6-8 years and has to be replace....ugh
why? I checked and metal roofs typically get about 25-30 years depending on the provider here in SWFL versus 15 for shingles.
@@MarkChaney My buddy who is a roofer says properly maintained a metal roof will last 50 years but that they are getting failed for inspection by the insurance companies.....
Great video, but I wish you'd explain more how you sealed where the side gable valleys meet the main roof (at the top of the valley). At the end of the video the installation looks great but I didn't see any details about how that was done.
I’m sorry about that, hopefully soon we will be doing more detailed videos on installation process for such things.
I need to know how to transition between the slope and the ridge of the lower roof top. The proper way to flash that area and transition in that area
We have a video on how to join the valley flashing at the top, where a ridge runs into another roof. Is that what you’re after?
th-cam.com/video/LnUzXz7EZM8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sDMDq6HATQUoiOaP
I did learn something thank you
Question = why not just screw the metal roofing directly to the shingles/old roof ? What is the reason/benifit of having the 1 x 4??
Several reasons, first you don’t have an air gap for airflow between the old and new roof.
Second, it will scratch the metal unless you put an underlayment down first.
Third, it gives the screws more to hold on to and therefore they will last longer.
Screwing into plywood only will result in screws backing out and leaking eventually. Unless you use larger shank screws made specifically for plywood.
@@plankroofing makes sense. Thanks 👍
Would 2x4s be better than 1x4?@plankroofing
So what if you have air flow under steel? Would'nt that be a good thing
@@JesusJimmy-eo9bg It can be. Sometimes when you create constrictions to directional airflow it usually is detrimental. I fail to understand how anyone justifies adding an expensive roof material and skipping underlayment. I also know the panels need room to expand and contract, and why and where metal requires tension to look smooth without oil canning. Its perfectly normal to put screws in top and bottom at the low points of the panel. I would hope he overlaps two ribs and the bottom panel was nailed off. The top panel then screws in at the top of smooth ribs on these type of panels. But you also run beads of waterblock down the lap and that metal is locked together in a vaccuum seal. Do not puncture that seal and it will not come apart without way more work than its worth. Those vertical striations are to keep your air gap about 1/4" above the roof when its hot. When it cools the gap closes, mitigating air trying to such into the air gap. That is the science behind it at least. Your purlins can be used to create an air gap but its not really necessary. If you do create an air gap it better allow flow or you compromise the metal in about a decade.
I need to know how to transition between the slope and the range of the lower roof top proper way to flash that area and transition in that area
Maybe this video will help.
th-cam.com/video/LnUzXz7EZM8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=sDMDq6HATQUoiOaP
I’m not sure I understand what you’re talking about. I’m kinda a visual guy so maybe I’d have to see a picture to get it.
Putting steel over shingles required double sleeper vertices first then horizontal for drainage on the sweeting steel
Double sleepers, especially in hot climates or on the south and west sides, provide ventilation with a ridge vent. Roofs can reach 180 degrees or more.
What the Hell is a sleeper?
I am VERY concerned about the tin sweating underneath and causing a leak.
Can you leave the ridge and eve gaskets out?
Membrane over 1x4's? Felt?, housewrap?
@@JesusJimmy-eo9bg He's simply using slang to refer to bunked purlins. Doubled up like a double sleeper car has bunk beds. In this case, he's referring to second layer perpindicular to first. Common on tiled roofs and when doing cathedral roofs. It greatly adds to safety on high pitch roofs because you can fasten vertically as you add each horizontal row. If you are using tie offs it simplifies finding good anchor points.
Condensation will not rot out lath?
Bingo. You saw that coming, too. Young guys will learn real quick.
Awesome!! I enjoyed the video of the construction. It says on Google that metal roofs are durable and have good thermal reflections. I have a question. If a homeowner replaces a metal roof like this, is there a tax benefit from the government? And I'm looking for Korean dongkuk steel that makes metal roofs. Have you ever heard of this company's products? It's called Luxteel. Most Starbucks buildings in Korea make walls and roofs with this product. And you and your team work is cool.
Is there any advantage to using underlayment over top of the shingles before applying the purlin strips?
Yes there would be, some people also use a reflective foil-faces bubble wrap as well.
Is there a possibility of weight concern when installing over pre-existing shingles on old buildings? As in a concern of causing roof spread? Is there a way to anticipate and calculate the possibility of this?
If there is two layers of shingles or more I’d recommend taking them off. If nothing else for the weight purpose.
Especially on old roofs, or manufactured homes. Also if you live anywhere where you get a significant amount of snow, you’d want to consider that as well. Because that will add a lot of weight to your roof if it’s shingles.
With metal a lot of it usually slides off.
Then, Check to see what all is on your roof. And go from there.
Consider weight by the square. 24 gauge is 1 pound per square foot, 9 pounds by roof square of 1 yard by 1 yard. 26 gauge is 75% the weight of 24 gauge. The weight is no issue. Tile roofs add over a 100 pounds per square and generally a standard frame can handle them.
Can you leave the gasket out, top and bottom to ventilate under tin?
Does anyone put membrane over 1x4's? Housewrap or roofing membrane? Felt?
If you put top and bottom boards down with deck screws, they spin if you miss the rafter.
What prevents condensation that forms on the underside of the metal roofing from dripping on the old shingles and causing the 1x4's to rot?
Vertical strips need to be installed on tile rood FIRST, then the horizonal strips as shown in the video. That way any condensation or water can freely run down the roof and off the edge and not be trapped on the horizonal strips.
There is an air gap which allows airflow between the metal and roof deck.
cool, good information. nice job 👍
Good video!
wouldnt the shingles deteriot underneath
That’s what a lot of people think,
But if it’s done right they actually don’t really. If it has airflow and it’s not exposed to the sun it sort of preserves them.
I’ve seen a video by “them roofing boys” of a 25 year old roof that was done similar to this, that was totally fine. The 1x4’s were still solid. The only reason they replaced it was because of tree damage to the metal.
Using a 2x4 treated instead of a 1x4 non treated would be a better choice?
I’m sure it would last longer.
Also a good underlayment would be great too.
Has anyone ever asked you to put one inch thick Styrofoam boards between the 1x4 boards? That would solidify it a little bit for walking on and help to insulate the heat from getting into the attic. Would condensation be worsened if that was done? I'm thinking about having a metal roof installed soon.
Yes, occasionally we get asked to do that,
In that case usually we use 2x4’s and 1 1/2” foam board as well.
@@plankroofing thanks for the reply.
I've use ¾ foam sheets cut 24" wide, 28½ centers on 1x4's and cover with membrane.
Works Fantastic! It's quieter too! There is less condensation cause there is less heat underside of tin.
@@JesusJimmy-eo9bg 24" insulation pushes purlin centers to 26.75". Panel manufacturers rarely spec beyond 16".
Excuse me, spacing of 24" insulation grows to 27.25" on centers. You hopefully are running no more than 20.75" insulation strips to keep your already large 24" spacing. My shit stays on during hurricanes and tornadoes with 16" spacing. Followed behind roofs that failed with more than 20 inch spacing. I recommend you tighten up the spacing.
Could you explain how you did the corner of roof where one roof ends on another pitch with a valley on each side? Seen at the top unfinished section 0:15
I believe what your looking for is explained in this video below
th-cam.com/video/uxaUOGy6PXI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Q5Z5VIVfBn9sVE1B
With the 1 x 4 is going in the same direction as the shingles doesn't moisture get caught behind those I have seen people run the wood strips top down and then go left to right so no water will get caught behind the wood strips
If there is any moisture, it will dry out with the airgap that is created by the 1x4’s.
I would definitely recommend putting an underlayment down. You could do the upright strips. But I don’t think it’s necessary. There are many people who have done it this way successfully. And I do think it would tend to leak quicker without the 1x4’s.
@@plankroofing when I built my addition on my garage I use that silver sided bubble barrier are the purlins and no leaks
What about adding 3/4" foam board between purloins?
Membrane over the top
@@JesusJimmy-eo9bg I don't know I'll have to check a few things before I actually do it
@@JesusJimmy-eo9bg Not all foam is hydrophonic. Use the correct foams and its great.
Do you metal roof over the attic vents and bathroom ventilation fans? Or does the gap in between the roof and 1x4s allow for adequate ventilation?
Normally we eliminate attic vents and open the ridge to allow venting through the ridge. And we use a mesh closure stip that allowed for venting out the ridge, but at the same time giving it closer from bugs and birds and what not…
However for bathroom vents or stink pipes, we leave those and flash over them with pipe boots.
@@plankroofing Occlusion is the technical word for the screens. If you open up your calculator and do your flow calculations, its a bad idea to ventilate in a 3/4 inch space. Air doesn't move well until you reach a 1 inch gap or better in your plane of travel. Even if your space was 3/4 inch by 6 feet, plenty of raw volume, the moisture will condense in that restricted space. It flows much better in a wider gap, hence you want over an inch gap when venting any real distances.
Do you have to. Use the wood strips or can you screw directly into the roof on a low pitch roof?
You want to use the wood because it creates an air gap, Which allows air flow, and prevents the underside of the metal from scratching on shingles. And also gives the screws solid wood to screw hold to.
@@plankroofing Your purlins were butted against your valleys, so its never going to flow the way you might be thinking. When its hot the pressure will lower as air leaves. When cold that air will come back in, full of moisture. If you are going for flow you need to leave some kind of gaps between purlin ends.
I don't know anything about this so this may be an odd question. When you walk on it, isn't it slippery? Also, it's a thin sheet of metal, doesn't it bend or cause permanent crease?
Actually it has a lot of grip if it’s new and clean, and depending what kind of shoes you have. Preferably something with a softer sole.
No, it is actually very strong with the ribs the way it is roll formed, it will span 2 feet no problem.
Now if you step on the rib in-between the purlins it can buckle.
It usually takes quite a bit of force or weight to make it crease or dimple by just walking on it.
Thanks great teaching job!
Happy New year. Excellent detail on the end of that ridge cap, I really like that! I’m going be doing a roof over on top of shingles on our 14 year old detached nonheated garage. Currently there are two roof vents that I will be removing obviously to put the metal roof on. Do you think I would need any venting at the ridge since it’s a non-heated detached garage? Also between the roof trusses, they have done 2 x 4 blocking at the ridge so there isn’t really an open air gap if I were to cut a ridge vent. Your thoughts would be appreciated thank you.
Hi there, generally rule of thumb is vent the ridge. If it’s a non-insulated garage, no need to vent.
But if there was vents there previously I would vent the ridge.
How Many Gauges Is
That Metal Roof ???
How Long Will Be There
For Warranty ???
Good Video Thank You.
29 gauge
How do you fasten your purlins … if u use screws and it rains before you get your metal on wouldn’t it leak …. Could I use construction adhesive . And longer screws would go through the metal and then fasten the purloin?
We’ve never had a problem with that.
What you suggested could be an option.
I don’t recommend installing any roof where it gets rained on before the job is complete.
I have always put 30 lb. Slater's Felt aown and then the 1" X 4" strips down. Why did you leave off the Slater's Felt?
That’s definitely the way to go,
I’m not sure why we didn’t do it back then.
But I’ve seen a 25 year old roof done with out it. And it was just fine.
1x4’s were still solid.
My addition got a metal roof but they cut it flush with the flashing at the edge. No over hand at all. I’m seeing that you need a slight overhang? I’d hate to have my roof redone for an extra inch of overhang.
That’s too bad,
Yes, an overhang is what you want. Even if it’s just an inch.
You could maybe have them take it off and move it down just a bit to give you an overhang.
Man that’s clean, but an Arizona summer would be brutal on the climate of my home, huh?
You can put down a reflective foil faces bubble material that can help reflect heat and provide a small amount of insulation as well as a vapor barrier
Great video! Can you post ridge vent install on a metal roof? Thank you in advance
Yes, if the roof has vents in the roof we eliminate those and make sure it can vent out the ridge.
If it has gable vents, it’s usually good to go already.
Why aren't the screws on the ridges? Valley seems like a leak area to me.
In your experience, if you had a slightly sagging gable ends that are slightly less than 1 foot overhang and sagging maybe 1" would you just let the 1x4's purlins pull them up! Have you ever used C channel along side the 1x4's? Much stronger!
Hi there,
In that case you might consider using 2x4’s in order to pull the sagging gable overhangs up.
I’m not sure what your referring to with the C-channel.
We have used a C- chapped drip edge to go over an old roof, this way you don’t have to take only drip edge off, HOWEVER! If you ever want to install gutters on your house this is not the way to go! Hence why we always remove old drip edge and use standard to make it much easier to install gutters after the roof is installed.
We learned the hard way…
Do not pull up a roof with purlins. Sagging tells you to fix your framing. You may have structure that is rotted. If you are a contractor and see that, run.
Very good video, but how did you do the ridge cap at the valley end
Typically we join our valley flashing very well. And then then fit the the ridge cap over top of the valley center part. Cutting it the same angle of the valleys. Some people run the ridge cap all the way under the metal above the valley. But our method doesn’t require you to do that.
I also forgot to ask you, can you just use this Cool Shield Thermal Bubble Roll on top of the shingles and then put on the metal roofing
You could, but part of the point of the 1x4’s is to give you an airgap, for airflow. And for a solid wood to screw into. Vs just having thin plywood or OSB, which doesn’t provide sufficient material for the screws to hold. So they will back out much quicker.
Fine workmanship.
What do you do if your roof is 18' on either side but you can only find 12' sheets do you just overlap them
Yes you can overlap them, 6” to 12”
Run a stretch of sheets along the drip edge first.
And then the top pieces completing the roof up to the ridge, and cut them to the proper length obviously.
Check out my video on how to run it straight with the drip edge.
how do you prevent the roof from dimpling when you step on the areas between the furring strips?
You just have to step on the flat and not on the ribs. And generally we try to walk on the 1x4’s. And use caution. You can span 24 inches on centers.
Do you manufacture everything or buy from a supplier
No, we would buy from a supplier.
we put down 30lb felt and metal over shingles. 15yr and no issues. Boards will rot from moisture being trap under metal
If there's metal fascia that has to be replaced, is it the case that it must be installed first, then the drip edge, then the panels?
Facia can be installed first or after.
Depending on the situation you want to install the Facia after the metal trim is installed,
For example on this roof the Facia runs into the roof so in that case we would take the Facia off in order to fit the trim for the metal roof around that spot. And then afterwards fit the Facia to the trim and re-install.
But in most cases Facia can be installed after drip edge and can be easier to install later depending on the drip edge.
@@plankroofing Thanks.
For a 2/12 or 3/12 pitched roof, how far apart should the 1x4s be spaced?
I would go about 18”- 20” on centers. If you have a clean roof deck you can make spacers to get your spacing consistent.
Also butyl tape in between the underlay and overlaps is recommended on shallow pitches. Like 2/12
Trust me , the screws suck especially with newer wood that will just spit them out. The only advantage of this method is you won't notice the leaks with the old roof underneath.
Do you guys do Everlast metal roofin ASL-150
Yes, we’ve done a lot of that.
Probably 50-50 when we worked in Michigan
Great work!
what state are you in?
If you're going over osb, I assume you would lay tar paper down correct? Is there any reason someone wouldn't bring the tar paper all the way down to the guttering?
Yes, go all the way down to the eve.
We like to use a brand called titanium, it has probably the best walking surface you’ll get in underlayment.
They also make an ice and water shield that I think is better than the “grace” brand. If you do go over just OSB you need to use the largest shank screws you can get, other wise you WILL have screws backing out on you and it will leak. They don’t recommend putting metal directly on OSB for that reason.
That is why we put down 1x4’s to give the screws solid wood to fasten to.
what did you use to attach the 1x4 to the shingles ?
Galvanized ring shank nails
2 3/8”
I have an old metal building that I can't find the panels for. Is there a way you can put new panels over existing panels for the roof? Or do I have to replace the hole thing?
I’m not sure I understand what you’re talking about? If you have a building that has metal on it. I would try to remove the old metal before putting on new metal panels.
@@plankroofing I have an old metal building that the design or shape is not longer made. So I can't replace a spot on the roof because it will be two different sheet metal design. So I wanted to know if I can just somehow do a metal on metal roof or I should replace the whole metal roof with new sheet metal.
You generally can if an engineer or architect will sign off on it. It requires the decking to be validated. Bonus if you can get awat without running a purlin system. Once an engineer or architect is involved they will either allow it to be simple or over complicate things. Your mileage may vary.
Can this be done with standing seam also?
Yes. But honestly you need paper down whereas he did not. And do not run horizontal rows of screw through your panels like he did. He already had bad underlayment then put holes through the hull of the boat. Glad its not any homeowner I know.
In Florida roofing panels with exposed fasteners leak in about 8 years because the grommet washers wear out. You have to replace or caulk. Been in this business 28 years here and it they tell you it is a lifetime warranty you better do like Forest Gump did and run.
Is there a way around this?
@@garljoensyeah, get a standing seam roof, no exposed fasteners
Tell your guys to turn that clutch down on those drills other than that the roof looked great👍🏻🇺🇸
Great stuff
What type of nails/screws do you use to hold down the furring strips?
Generally we use 2 3/8” ring shanked nails. And then our screws are also long enough to go all the way through 1x4’s and into the roof decking below as well.
Is a metal roof that much of an improvement over traditional shingles
Yes some can last up to a century
It depends on what quality of shingles and quality of installation job you get. But in general I’d say metal will last longer.
looks like you do a great job other than cutting on the grass.
Vertigo and flashing graphics. Now I know why they put warnings on some animation!
Jussayin, your calm with the high places... Damn.
Beautiful!
What is the approximate cost per square vs conventional asphalt shingles?
Are you asking about materials or labor included?
@@plankroofing yes sir I was!
I'm surprised you aren't using standing seam roofing with hidden screws. It seems as if all barns I've seen with ordinary 3' corrugated metal roofing leak at least a little.
If done properly it will not leak.
Many we’ve seen the screws will back out or leak if they only use plywood or osb.
We do a lot of standing seam, actually over 50% I’d say, but this particular customer wanted this style of metal.
Pretty obvious because standing seam is way more expensive. This customer wanted cheap.
Why is it, that he's not using any silicone on any of the screws holding the roof pans on? The professional guy, that installed mine, used a big "glob" of silicone on every single screw head, sealing it for good. These are left open to the weather, open to leaking whenever.
The screws are made to seal themselves with the rubber washer,
With proper maintenance of re-torquing screws every few years and replacing screws every 8-10 years with slightly bigger shanked screws. A roof like this will last 40+ years!
If done correctly! And maintained.
Unnecessary, all the screws already have gaskets on all of them
I hope the "professional guy" who did your roof used roofing screws with EPDM washers.
That's because the guy who did your roof cheaper out and llikely didn't use EPDM washer roofing screws. Instead used a screw with a silicone blob to seal which will fail in the next 1.5 years.
Silicone on screws is way overkill and not necessary if you are using certified roofing screws
A roof with holes in it is a poor underlayment. You needed paper down before the metal, preferably before the 1x4's. For price of 1x4's could have gone full 2x4's for not much more. And I highly recommend running your slats diagonally to improve drying. If you go 2x4's then you can pretty easily add R11 insulation in between and paper over that. Keeps air gap isolated to exterior that way, culling condensation at slats. What is nice about 2x4's is you can secure them to rafters and each purlin/slat will become structural, improving safety when you attach the metal. An insecure 1x4 probably is below minimum code in most jurisdictions for obvious reasons.
Do you guys ever come down to the TOledo, OH area? I live in Walbridge and would like a metal roof! I'd gladly trade labor!
No we don’t sorry
What is the color on this metal roof?
It is black, the supplier we get it from has two shades of black.
We use the valspar painted metal which has a 40 year warranty.
thank u!!
Do you need a water barrier if you're doing a metal of shingles
And where do I put it
Yes, get the highest quality you can find.
Some people use a foil-faced reflective bubble wrap on re-roofs like this as well.
Where do you live bro? Must get big snow loads for that many valley screws.
Northern Michigan.
Yes we get a fairly good snow load.
@@plankroofing would you travel to Kansas City to install a metal roof over my shingles?
Can you just put the metal roof over shingles
Does anybody do slate roofs and repairs to them. I have an idea to restore an old bank barn to original condition. Thank you. 😊
I know there are people who do those.
Not sure about repairs.
But look online you should be able to find something
What is the approx cost for putting metal roof on a house? (Small house)
Depends on what type of metal roof.
Exposed fastener (pole barn metal) style is cheaper. 3’ wide/five rib panel
And the hidden fastener ( standing seam) 16” wide panel ( also thicker gauge steel) is about twice as much.
I’ll have to get back with you on price?
Are you looking for just materials price?
What state are you located in?
We are located in TN
Used to be in northwest Michigan
Wish I had one.
The screews are driven to tite,you have creases in the pans. The purlins are way to far apart. The panels should be fastened every 2 feet for high winds.
We usually go approximately 2’ on center
To many mistakes made on steel roof install for me and no one seams to follow manufacture instructions.All I hear is we have done it this way for years .Doing it wrong over and over makes it a habit not right
Metal causes condensation and the 1x4s and roof decking will rot, I seen this after hurricane Laura hit.
That’s a southern problem mainly with constant high humidity.
@@jl456
good point
Without counter batten all the wood under the metal gonna rot
th-cam.com/users/shortshsIxeHauXdg?si=nQ_4KdqsYXjSoZnl
Check this out.
I think I can install a metal roof now.
Quit playing
This is the way I've done for over 30 years but wouldn't recommend roofing going over 2 layers of shingles because of added weight in my area due to snow fall' frozen rain.